CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


AND 

" ■'  ) d|A  j g-!' 

A VOYAGE  THITHER: 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  A CRUISE 

it 

IN  THE 

* • i 

WATEKS  OF  THE  EAST  INDIES, 
CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

By  JAMES  B.  LAWRENCE,  U.  S.  M.  C. 

library  of  Princeton 


JAN  2-3  2008 

% 

PRESS  OF  CASE,  LOCKWOOD  & BRAIN ARD. 
1870. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1870,  by 
JAMES  B.  LAWRENCE, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the 
District  of  Connecticut. 


TO 

MY  GALLANT  SHIPMATES  AND  COMPANIONS 

OF  THE 

Asiatic  jSquafrron, 

AND 

THOSE  “DEAR  FRIENDS  AT  HOME,” 

WHO  EVER  REMEMBERED  US  WITH  INTEREST  IN  ALL  OUR  WANDERINGS, 
THIS  VOLUME  IS  AFFECTIONATELY  DEDICATED, 


By  the  Author. 


PREFACE. 


There  have  been  times  in  the  lives  of  almost  every  one, 
when  they  have  stood  with  a group  of  friends,  as  some  bright 
day  closed  into  evening,  and  watched  with  admiration  its  va- 
ried pictures  of  colored  and  golden  cloud-scenes.  At  such 
times  one  could  not  have  failed  to  have  remarked  that  each 
one  saw  scenes  unnoticed  or  unrecognized  by  others.  What 
would  appear  to  one  to  be  the  figures  of  persons,  would  as 
clearly  be  recognized  by  another  to  be  animals ; and  while 
one  would  be  struck  with  astonishment  at  a very  clearly  de- 
fined picture  of  contending  armies,  or  a noble  tower  with 
lofty  battlements,  to  others  these  same  scenes  would  appear 
but  a confused  and  unshapen  mass. 

In  like  manner,  no  one  beholds  the  same  thing  precisely 
alike,  and  in  some  cases  there  is  a direct  contradiction  in 
describing  the  same  object,  and  yet  both  may  be  correct  so 
far  as  they  go ; as  in  the  case  of  the  two  knights  contending 
over  the  material  of  which  the  shield  was  composed.  The 
fault  was  that  one  did  not  see  the  whole ; and  in  no  case 
yet  has  the  multiplied  descriptions  of  different  countries  and 
people  either  exhausted  the  subject,  or  made  us  accurately 
acquainted.  There  is  ever  an  opportunity  for  “ one  more  ” 
to  bring  something  new  to  our  notice,  or  present  the  most 
familiar  subject  in  some  new  and  interesting  aspect. 

This  must  be  the  writer’s  excuse  for  saying  something 
1* 


vi 


PREFACE. 


regarding  countries,  people,  and  other  topics  that  may  appear 
familiar  to  many ; but  the  most  of  his  gatherings  are  from 
remote  regions,  which,  while  any  information  respecting  them 
is  intensely  interesting,  there  is  yet  comparatively  little  known. 
In  these  gatherings  the  writer  has  endeavored  to  collect  the 
most  interesting,  to  be  as  comprehensive  as  his  opportunities 
would  allow,  and  to  describe  and  narrate  all  in  as  concise  a 
manner  as  ease  would  permit.  He  feels  assured  that  the 
reader  will  find  in  these  pages  some  new  and  interesting 
items  regarding  the  remote  regions  of  which  he  writes  ; and 
yet  is  at  the  same  time  conscious  that  they  will  not  be  missed 
from  the  vast  mass  left  for  other  observers  and  future  years. 

As  a public  ship  is  always  an  object  of  national  interest, 
and  therefore  cannot  be  uninteresting  for  her  republican  pa- 
rents to  know  of  her  wanderings,  the  writer  has  given  in 

I * 

connection  with  these  gatherings  the  most  important  facts 
respecting  the  “ cruise  ” of  the  vessels  with  which  he  was 
connected.  He  has  also  endeavored  to  notice  some  great 
evils  which  exist  in  an  important  national  institution,  and 
which  do  not  seem  to  be  in  harmony  with  our  national  char- 
acter. It  should  be  the  aim  of  all  to  produce  a reform  in 
this  institution,  and  to  show  to  the  world  in  our  Navy  an 
example  of  correct  American  principles. 

Respecting  his  style,  the  writer  makes  no  pretensions,  al- 
though he  is  well  aware  that  so  much  depends  upon  it,  that 
the  simplest  incident  is  embellished  by  it;  and  the  most 
trifling  item  from  the  pen  of  some  are  tfy  it  so  expressed  as 
to  possess  all  the  fascinations  of  a romance.  Still  the  writer 
feels  assured  that  the  simplest  account  of  a voyage  has  such 


PREFACE. 


vii 


indiscriminate  popularity,  that  he  may  safely  rely  upon  the 
interest  of  his  subject,  without  particular  reference  to  style. 
Something,  however,  should  perhaps  be  said  in  respect  to  the 
form  in  which  the  book  has  been  written. 

The  writer  has  chosen  the  form  of  “ letters  ” because  this 
is  less  didactic  and  stiff  than  any  other,  and  also,  while  he 
has  found  greater  freedom  and  ease  in  writing  as  from  one 
friend  to  another,  he  hopes  that  the  reader  will  derive  deeper 
pleasure  from  the  perusal.  To  the  charge  of  egotism,  which 
some  might  bring  against  him,  he  would  say  in  defence,  that 
this  form  necessarily  occasions  a considerable  use  of  the  first 
person ; and  after  all,  what  is  history  or  the  account  of  any- 
thing but  the  aggregate  of  individual  experiences  and  emo- 
tions ? 

It  might  have  been  better  in  some  respects  had  the  writer 
followed  more  closely  the  directions  of  good  Master  Bayle  in 
his  prescriptions  for  description  and  invention.  Although  his 
sage  rules  have  not  been  taken  as  a guide,  yet  whenever  he 
had  a statement  to  make  in  connection  with  his  subject,  that 
belonged  to  the  common  stock  of  history  and  science,  or  has 
had  views  and  sentiments  to  convey  which  another  has  better 
expressed  than  himself,  he  has  not  hesitated,  without  further 
acknowledgments,  to  use  such  materials,  in  part  or  entire, 
and  to  blend  them  with  his  own  into  a kind  of  mosaic,  in 
which  he  admits  that  his  part  is  little  more  than  the  ce- 
ment. 

^However,  this  has  not  been  carried  to  any  great  extent  by 
him ; and  the  reader  need  not  expect  to  find  the  history  of 
each  place  run  back  to  primeval  dates,  including  an  elaborate 


Vlll 


PREFACE. 


treatise  on  Mineralogy,  Botany,  and  all  other  sciences  of  every 
place ; for  the  writer  has  mainly  noted  the  objects  and  topics 
which  interested  him  at  the  moment ; and  provided  that  the 
perusal  of  these  gatherings  impart  to  the  reader  one-half  the 
interest  and  pleasure  that  the  writer  experienced,  he  will  be 
content. 

JAMES  B.  LAWRENCE, 
Sandisfield,  Mass.,  July  Is*,  1870. 


CONTENTS 


LETTER  I. 

Boston  Harbor.  - - Page  9. 

On  board — A glance  at  the  Wachusett — The  Berth  Deck. 


LETTER  II. 

Under  Weigh.  - - Page  15. 

“ Down  by  the  Run  ” — Preparing  for  Sea — Presidential  Rejoicings — 
The  Pains  of  Parting. 


LETTER  m. 

At  Sea.  - - - Page  20. 

Stationing — Amusements — Sunday  on  board  Ship — Treatment  of 
Seamen — Our  Officers — Preparations  for  Port — Land  Ho!  Emo- 
tions— Dominica  and  Martinique — Beautiful  scenery  of  the  latter — 
Fort  de  France  Harbor — The  Town — Tropical  Fruits — Cheering 
Strains. 


LETTER  IV. 

Martinique,  West  Indies.  - Page  29. 

“ Putting  on  Ship’s  Harbor  Dress  ” — Introduced  to  the  Inhabitants — 
“Coaling  Ship” — Ship’s  Rations — “Boxing  the  Compass” — 
Rambling  Ashore — Mistaken  Kindness — Fort  de  France — The 
Streets — Buildings — “ Quarter  Deck  Guard  ” — Aground — Afloat 
Again — Go  ’round  to  St.  Pierre — A glance  at  the  Town. 

LETTER  Y. 

Martinique  to  Cape  Verdes.  - Page  40. 

“General  Quarters” — Scrubbing  Hammocks  and  Washing  Clothes — 
Divisional  Routine — Daily  Routine — Relative  Position  and  Duties — 
“ Cleansing  Ship  ” — Meeting  Vessels — Sight  the  Cape  Verdes — 
St.  Antonio  and  St.  Vincent — Porto  Grand  Harbor — “ Bird  Rock  ” 
— “ Washington’s  Head” — The  Town  from  the  Ship — Inhabitants — 
Our  Flag. 


t 


X 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER  VI. 

Cape  Verdes.  - - Page  47. 

News  from  Home — Mourning  for  President  Lincoln — Target  Prac- 
tice— On  Shore — A word  about  Sugar — Leave  for  Porto  Praya — 
St.  Jago — Porto  Praya  Harbor — The  Town— Money — Fresh  Pro- 
visions— Result  of  One’s  Misdeeds — A False  Alarm — Visitors — A 
Fair  One— Reminiscences — The  Lost  Anchor. 

LETTER  VII. 

Porto  Praya  to  St.  Catharine.  - Page  54. 

Rough  Weather  and  Sea-sickness — Jib  Bogue — Neptune’s  Visit — Be- 
calmed— “ By  the  Wind  ” — Half  Rations — Off  Rio  Janeiro — Scene- 
ry— “ Sold  ” — Steer  for  Montevidio — The  Pampero — First  Storm  at 
Sea — A Fearful  Night — In  the  Vortex  of  the  Hurricane— Trying 
Moments — “About  Ship  ” — “ Land  Ho  !” — Put  into  St.  Catharine. 

LETTER  VIH. 

St.  Catharine.  - - Page  66. 

Coal  and  Provisions — Hard  Bread — More  News  from  Home — An  Or- 
anging  Expedition — “Fourth  of  July  ” — “Dressing  Ship” — Depart 
for  Rio— Chess — Preparations  for  entering  Rio — Entering  the 
Bay — Sugar  Loaf — The  Scenery  of  the  Bay  of  Rio  Janeiro — The 
Bay — Coaling  Ship — Healing  the  Breach. 

LETTER  IX. 

Rio  Janeiro.  - - - Page  76. 

Ceremonies  for  the  Emperor — Holidays — The  Susquehanna — “ Ship 
Visiting  ” — Money  and  “ General  Liberty  ’’ — A Defaulter — Murder 
of  a Messmate — The  Funeral — The  Ceremony — Wedding  of  “ Mary 
and  John  ” — At  the  Landing — Royal  Chapel — Paintings — Rua  do 
Ouvridor — Rua  do  Ouvris— Don  Pedro  Square  and  Cafe— Coffee — Rio 
Janeirians — Praya  Grande — A pleasant  Acquaintance  with  Strawber- 
ries and  Cream— The  French  Theatre — Navy  Y ard  and  Iron  Clads — 
New  Use  for  Window  Blinds  and  Shutters — The  Intuitive  Portu- 
guese Jealousy — “Mooring  Ship” — Visit  to  Botafogo  and  Botanic 
Gardens — Repairs . 

LETTER  X. 

Rio  Janeiro  to  “ The  Cape.”  - Page  92. 

Weighing  Anchor — Good-bye  to  Rio — That  Dutchman — Mending — 
A New  Personage  introduced  with  New  Uses,  etc — What  a Band  ! — 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


Africa  Sighted — Good  Hope— An  Arrival  in  Port— Simon’s  Bay, 
South  Africa. 

LETTER  XI. 

Cape  Town,  South  Africa.  - Page  99. 

Fishing  at  Simon’s  Bay — Toad  Fish — Cape  Town  and  Table  Moun- 
tain— On  Shore — A glance  at  the  City — Castle — Barracks — Wine 
with  good  advice  from  Mr.  Bacchus — Market  and  Fair  Venders — 
Government  Grounds  and  Colonial  Museum — Curiosities — An  Ex- 
cursion to  Wynberg — Constancia  Vineyard — Result  of  Treading  on 
Toes — Visitors  and  Comical  Description  of  “de  Rible  Gun” — Our 
Ball — Death  of  Ryan — The  Yeoman — The  Hartford — Castle  Build- 
ing. 

LETTER  XII. 

Bat ati a,  Java.  - - Page  112. 

Coffee  and  Spices ! — Leave  Cape  Town — Theft — A Narrow  Escape — 
Sailors’  Superstitions— Christmas — Sick  at  Sea  ! — Becalmed — Rou- 
tine; Oh  how  Monotonous  and  Tiresome! — “Fair  Wind,  with  our 
Engines” — Java  Head — Anjer  Point — Javanese  and  Boats — Har- 
bor— Batavia — Sail  Ashore — Government  Grounds — How  we  Rode 
and  what  we  Saw — Native  and  Foreign  Quarters — Botanical  and 
Zoological  Gardens — The  George  Green — Onrust — Preparations  for 
Departure. 

LETTER  XIII. 

Manilla,  Luzon.  - - Page  126. 

From  Batavia  to  Manilla — Waterspouts — Target  Practice — Borneo — 
Fruitless  Search  for  “ Wild  Men  ” — Luzon— Manilla — Inhabitants — 
Dress — The  Town — Earthquakes — Cigars  and  Manufactories — Visit 
the  Cathedral — La  Plaza — Native  Quarter — “ Washington’s  Birth 
day  ” — Garroting. 

LETTER  XIV. 

Hong  Kong,  China.  - - Page  134. 

Manilla  to  Hong  Kong — Sight  Hong  Kong — The  Irate  Admiral — 
First  Introduction  to  Chinese — Appearance  and  Costumes — Hong 
Kong  Harbor  and  Island — Victoria — News  from  Home. 

LETTER  XV. 

Macao,  China.  - - Page  141. 

Passage  from  Hong  Kong — Picturesque  Appearance  of  Macao — “ Gen- 
eral Liberty  ” — “ Fast  Boats  ” and  Tanka  Girls — Experience  with 


CONTENTS. 


xii 

them  going  ashore — The  Cathedral — Chinese  Quarter — Barbered — 
Costumes — Foreign  Quarter — Palanquins — Chinese  Theatre — Cam- 
oens  and  Chinnery — Humanity,  Swapping  Black  Skins  for  Yellow 
ones. 

LETTER  XYI. 

Canton.  - - - Page  150. 

Leave  Macao — Canton  River  Scenery — Chinese  Graves — Features  in 
Landscape — Approaching  the  City — Varieties  of  Boats — “Facto- 
ries ” — Arrival  of  Admiral — Importunities  of  Tanka  Girls — Curiosi- 
ty Street  and  Curiosities — Silks — City  Walls — Bird’s-Eye  View — 
Houses — Streets — Business — Execution  Ground,  etc — Honan  Side — 
Visit  of  Governor — Mandarin  Costumes — Beggars  and  Curious 
Law. 

LETTER  XVII. 

Hong  Kong.  - - Page  165. 

Leave  Canton — Whampoa  Anchorage — A shore  view  of  Hong  Kong — 
Queen’s  Road — “ Old  Sam  ” — Incident  Illustrative  of  Chinese  Imi- 
tation. 


LETTER  XVIII. 

Shanghai.  - - Page  170. 

Hong  Kong  to  Shanghai — “ A Man  Overboard  !” — Run  a Junk  Down 
— Woosung — Shanghai  from  Forecastle — A Shore  View — Sam- 
pans— Native  City — Taeping  Monument. 

LETTER  XIX. 

Newchwang.  - - - Page  179. 

Leave  Shanghai — Shantung  Promontory — Yingtse — Hu — “ The  Long- 
Knife  Man  ” — His  Band  and  their  Depredations — An  Unsuccessful 
Expedition — Our  Midnight  Sortie  and  Success — Tortures  and  Exe- 
cutions— Chinese  Currency — Drowning  of  Breems — Surveying  the 
Bar — The  Tautai’s  Visit— A New  Pet— Incidents  of  Stay — Inde- 
pendence Day. 

LETTER  XX. 

Chefoo  and  Tung-chow-foo.  - Page  189. 

Leave  Newchwang — The  Great  Wall — Takoo — Chefoo — Go  up  to 
Tung-chow-foo— The  Difficulty— Another  Expedition— Turns  into 
an  Excursion— Return  to  Chefoo— On  Shore— A.  Mandarin  Travel- 
ing— The  Cemetery — General  Liberty — The  Corean  Difficulty. 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 


LETTER  XXI. 

Shanghai  and  on  the  Yangtse  Kiang.  Page  201. 
Chefoo  to  Shanghai — Depart  for  Hankow — Yangtse  Kiang  and  Scene- 
ry— Golden  and  Silver  Islands — Chinkiang — Heat,  Sickness,  and 
Death — Death  of  Captain  Townsend — Return  to  Shanghai — Euneral 
of  Captain  Townsend — Obituary  Notice. 


LETTER  XXII. 

Shanghai.  ...  Page  212. 
Fever — Ramble  about  Shanghai — Chinese  Prisons — Tea  Gardens — 
Tea. 


LETTER  XXIII. 

A Look  at  Japan.  - - Page  215. 

A Death  and  Burial  at  Sea — Yokohama — Japanese — Dress — Courtesy 
and  Salutations — Yokohama  Harbor — Land  at  the  Hettlebar — Hamo- 
ra  Street — Bird’s-Eye  View  of  Town — Drying  Tea — Native  Quar- 
ter— Incidents  of  Way — Curiosities — Go  up  to  Yeddo — Escort  our 
Minister — What  we  encountered  in  our  march  through  the  city — 
Minister’s  Residence  and  Grounds — Ventilation — Yeddo — The  New 

Captain — General  Court-Martial — Return  to  Yokohama — S . 

bids  us  “ Good-bye” — Depart  for  Nagasaki — Oosima — The  Typhoon 
— Enter  Inland  Sea — Divisions — Scenery,  etc. — Nagasaki  Harbor — 
The  Town — Japanese  Currency — Horseback  Ramble  about  Naga- 
saki— A few  words  about  Japanese. 

LETTER  XXIV. 

Hong  Kong.  - - - Page  236. 

Nagasaki  to  Hong  Kong — Arrival — Go  up  to  Macao  for  Fete — Cruis- 
ing after  Pirates — Description,  Mode  of  Attack,  etc. — A Sad  Inci- 
dent— Visit  an  Opium  Saloon — “ Take  a Whiff,”  and  Effects — Cen- 
tral Market — Public  Gardens — Kowloon  Shore — The  Fire — Cool. 

LETTER  XXV. 

Hong  Kong.  - - - Page  243. 

Cruising  Northward — Tsing  Hoy — Swatow — Amoa  Straits — Tung 
Sang — Salt  Works — Sweet  Potatoes — Off  Amoy — Scenery — Amoy 
— On  Shore — Chinese  Cemetery — Graves,  etc. — White  Stag  Hill — 
Picturesqueness  of  Kulang-soo — Sunday  Services  with  Attractions — 
Return  to  Hong  Kong — Thanksgiving — Lose  Dr.  Page. 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER  XXYI. 

Whampoa.  - - - Page  253. 

Go  up  to  Whampoa — In  Dock — Repairing — A Sad  Death — Curiosi- 
ties— Summary  Punishment  for  Stealing — A Word  on  Chinese  Gov- 
ernment— A Ramble  into  Interior — Music  and  Wine — New  Town — 
In  the  Country — Bananas — Pagoda  Eminence — The  View — Inside 
the  Pagoda — Old  Whampoa — Chinese  Ploughing — Grinding — Print- 
ing early  known,  Manner  of,  etc. — Parsee  Burying  Ground — Chi- 
nese Funeral — The  Joss  Tower — Return  to  Hong  Kong — Christmas 
Festivities — A Sad  Parting. 

LETTER  XXVII. 

Chefoo.  - * - Page  269. 

Depart  for  the  Northward — In  Linchan  Bay — A Typhoon — Shanghai 
— Powder  Explosion. — Loneliness — A Novel  Combat — Depart  for 
Chefoo — Arrival — Cold,  but  Pleasant — Shooting  and  Skating — The 
General  Sherman  Affair — Description  of  Chinese  Written  Language 
and  the  Spoken — Learning  in  China. 

LETTER  XXVIII. 

Corea.  - - - Page  277. 

Depart  for  Corea — Approaching  the  Land — Nein-Fo — Coreans — 
Dress,  Appearance,  etc. — Communications  sent  to  King  of  Corea 
and  Chief  of  Province — Survey  and  Nomenclature  of  Bay  and  In- 
lets— The  Chief’s  “ Winter  Cap  ” — Filthiness  of  Coreans — A Tough 
Yarn — Corean  Version  of  Gen.  Sherman  Affair — Unsatisfactory  Re- 
ply to  Communications — A Vindictive  Savage — Go  to  Port  Hamil- 
ton (Nanhoo) — The  Harbor — Islands — Villages — Houses — General 
Remarks  upon  Coreans. 

LETTER  XXIX. 

Shanghai.  - - - Page  285. 

Passage  from  Corea — At  Shanghai — Chinese  New  Year’s  Holidays — 
Customs — Calls — Dress — Visit  of  Catholic  Missionaries — Ship  Vis- 
iting and  Pleasant  Acquaintances. 

LETTER  XXX. 

Second  Trip  up  Yangtse-Kiang.  - Page  289. 

Summary  of  Past  Year  with  us — Delightful  Weather — Depart  from 
Shanghai — The  Grand  Canal — Scenery  and  Sights  up  the  River — 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


Chinese  Landscapes — Floating  Farms — Hankow — Size  of,  form,  de- 
fenses, etc. — Scene  on  Han  River — Sailing  through  a Crowded 
Thoroughfare — A City  on  the  Water — “ Laws  of  the  Hoad  ” — Visit 
Wuchang — International  Sports  on  Shore. 

LETTER  XXXI. 

0 

Down  the  Yangtse.  - - Page  297. 

Rebels  and  Refugees — Origin  of  “ Land  Pirates  ” — A Brutal  Deed — 
Kiukiang — Burning  Cities — Courage — Chinese  Military — A Battle 
— Porcelain — Tea — A Large  Story — Nankin — Notorieties — The  Por- 
celain Tower — A Sham  Battle — Return  to  Shanghai. 

LETTER  XXXII. 

Foochow  and  Ningpo.  - . Page  306. 

To  Foochow  by  Inland  Passage — Scenery  of  the  Min — Pagoda  Anchor- 
age— On  the  Pagoda — Foochow — Soap  Stone  Carvings — Foochow 
to  Chinhae — “ Joss-House  Hill  ” — Chinhae — Approaching  Ning- 
po— Suburbs — “ Heaven-conferred  Pagoda  ” — The  Mohammedan 
Mosque — A “ Sing-Song  House  ” and  Female  Temple — The  City 
— Houses — Courts,  etc. — Services  and  Attractions — The  Confucian 
System. 

LETTER  XXXIII. 

% 

Shanghai.  - - - Page  319. 

Passage  from  Ningpo — The  Fire — The  Captain’s  Speech — Our  Church 
— “ For  to  go  and  see  the  Races  ” — Firemen’s  Muster — A Desirable 
Acquaintance — Taou  System  of  Religion — A Ride  under  Difficul- 
ties— Cremorne  Gardens — Sik-a-wai,  and  Incidents  of  Ride. 

LETTER  XXXIV. 

Shanghai.  - - - Page  336. 

The  American  Arms  at  Formosa — A Horrible  Execution — Small  Feet 
— The  “ Glorious  Fourth  ” — Boat  Racing — Christianity  in  China — 
Outline  of  Chinese  Government — Kites  and  Kite-flying. 

LETTER  XXXV. 

Pootoo.  - - - Page  347. 

Cruising  for  Sanitary  Purposes — Ningpo  and  Passengers — Chusan — 
Tinghai — “ Chickens  for  Sailors  ! ” — Beauties  of  Pootoo — Temples, 
Services,  Devotions,  and  Duties — Prayers — Introduction  of  Bud- 
dhism— Doctrines — Present  Condition — Sacred  Flowers — Genii’s 
Well — Surf  Bathing. 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER  XXXVI. 

Hong  Kong.  - - - Page  362. 

Pootoo  to  Shanghai — “Homeward  Bound  ” — Excitement — Hong  Kong 
— Our  Fleet — Typhoon  Season. 

LETTER  XXXVII. 

Hong  Kong.  - - - Page  368. 

Transferred  to  United  States  Flag  Ship  Hartford— The  Waehusett  and 
Wyoming  go — A glance  at  the  Hartford — Another  Typhoon. 

LETTER  XXXVIII. 

Nagasaki,  Japan.  - - Page  375. 

Hong  Kong  to  Nagasaki — “Winter’s  Coming  Again” — Rumors — 
Japanese  Traditions,  Basis  and  Form  of  Government,  Laws,  Etc. — 
Death  of  the  Admiral’s  Secretary — Piracy,  and  arrival  of  Ship- 
wrecked Party. 

LETTER  XXXIX. 

Hioga,  Japan.  - Page  380. 

Leave  Nagasaki — Simonosaki — Wonderful  Dwarfs,  Etc. — Hioga — A 
sad  Christmas — More  Rumors — “ Opening  the  Ports  ” — Prospects  of 
Japan — Go  over  to  Osaca — The  City — Tycoon’s  Palace — “The 
Barge  has  Capsized ! ” — Bringing  off  the  Living  and  the  Dead — Our 
Drowned  Shipmates — A House  of  Death — Return  to  Hioga — The 
Funeral — To  Osaca  by  Land — Laws  in  regard  to  Christianity — Per- 
fection of  Japanese  Police — Pagoda,  with  its  Temples,  Inn,  Etc.,  in 
Outskirts  of  Osaca — In  the  City — “ Necessity  the  Mother  of  Inven- 
tion.” 

LETTER  XL. 

Hong  Kong.  - - - Page  396. 

Return  to  Nagasaki — Transferring — Nagasaki  to  Hong  Kong — Gam- 
bling— An  Adventure  in  Canton — The  “Feast  of  Lanterns” — Go 
up  to  Whampoa — Chinese  mode  of  Printing  and  Manufacture  of 
Bobks — Diet  of  Common  People — A Chinese  “Tea  Drinking” — A 
Glance  at  Chinese  History — Boundaries  and  Extent  of  China — Pop- 
ulation— Ready  for  Home. 

LETTER  XLI. 

Singapore,  East  Indies.  - - Page  411. 

“Homeward  Bound” — Passage  from  Hong  Kong — Singapore — Ma- 
hometans— A Charming  Ride — The  Lorcha — “ Humbugging  ” — Ar- 
rival of  the  Piscataqua — Fruits,  Etc. 


CONTENTS. 


XVII 


LETTER  XLII. 

Cape  Town,  South  Africa.  - Page  422. 
“ Homeward  Bound  ” Again— Anjer  Point— A Blow— Hole-in-the- Wall 
Simon’s  Town — Cape  Town. 

LETTER  XLIII. 

St.  Helena.  - - - Page  425. 

Cape  Town  to  St.  Helena — “ The  Fourth” — Ladder  Hill — Jamestown 
— “ The  Briars  ” — Plants  and  Stones — “ Willow  Cottage  ” — The 
“Cabbage  Tree” — The  Tomb  of  Napoleon — Old  Long  House — 
Hutt’s  Gate — Superficies,  &c.,  of  St.  Helena. 

LETTER  XLIY. 

New  York. 

Our  Last  Passage — Home  Again — Farewell. 


Page  435. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE. 

J.  B.  Lawrence, frontispiece. 

Macao,  China, 140 

Street  Barber, 146 

Shanghai,  China, 174 

Smoking  Opium, 238 

Whampoa  Reach, 254 

Pagoda  Anchorage,  Foochow, 306 

Hong  Kong,  China, 365 

Tycoon’s  Palace,  Osaca, 386 


LETTERS. 


LETTER  I. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Boston  Harbor, 
March  1,  1865. 

My  Dear  R. : 

At  last  my  long  cherished  desire  is  about  to  be  attained — 
that  of  going  to  sea.  You  know  how  strong  that  desire  has 
been,  how  long  and  eagerly  I have  striven  to  attain  it,  and 
now  that  success  is  about  to  crown  my  undertakings,  you  can 
better  imagine  my  feelings  than  I can  describe  them.  It  was 
your  earnest  request  that  I would  write  you  at  length  con- 
cerning what  I might  see,  hear,  or  think,  that  might  savor  of 
interest  to  you,  leaving  me  to  select  such  matter  as  I might 
deem  interesting.  At  the  same  time  you  promised  that 
whatever  should  fail  to  awaken  the  interest  anticipated 
should  be  as  thankfully  received  as  though  it  had  accom- 
plished the  desired  end,  in  short,  promising  in  all  cases  to 
take  the  will  for  the  deed.  In  view  of  such  a request,  so 
favorably  conditioned,  I could  not  do  less  than  I did, — cor- 
dially promise  that  so  far  as  it  should  lie  within  my  power,  I 
would  gratify  you. 

About  a week  ago  I learned  that  the  Wachusett  would  soon 
be  ready  for  sea,  and  that  she  was  bound  for  China.  That 
country,  above  all  others,  I have  ever  been  anxious  to  visit, 
and,  as  a favorable  account  of  the  Wachusett  officers  had 
been  given  me  by  a friend  who  was  acquainted  with  them,  I 
2 (9) 


10 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


was  induced  to  volunteer  for  her.  So  many  of  my  applica- 
tions to  be  sent  to  sea  having  been  refused  before,  I was  a 
little  apprehensive  that  this  one  might  share  a similar  fate, 
but  when  the  Marine  Guard  was  detailed  for  the  Wachu- 
sett  this  mornfng,  I found  myself  to  be  one  of  the  number. 
There  were  fifteen  of  us  in  all ; one  sergeant,  two  corporals, 
and  twelve  privates,  constituting  what  is  called  a “ Sergeant’s 
Guard.” 

With  one  exception,  I have  no  acquaintance  with  any  of 
them,  but  so  far  as  appearances  go,  I should  call  them  an 
intelligent  body  of  men,  such  as  know  their  duty  and  will 
not  hesitate  to  perform  it,  and  among  whom  I shall  find  some 
worthy  and  congenial  associates.  In  the  close  relationship 
that  we,  of  necessity,  must  sustain,  I shall  know  them  thor- 
oughly ere  long.  We  were  ordered  to  have  everything  in 
readiness  to  go  on  board  that  same  forenoon,  and  although 
the  command  came  unexpectedly  to  us  all,  we  set  to  work 
packing  and  making  the  many  necessary  preparations  for 
the  change  from  barrack  life  to  shipboard  existence,  and  long 
before  noon  all  were  ready. 

Then  came  the  leave  takings — parting  with  the  friends  and 
acquaintances  that  we  had  made  whilst  together  in  Barracks. 
One  and  all  were  agreed  that  we  were  fortunate  in  being 
selected  for  the  “ Wachusett’s  Guard,”  and  “ a pleasant  cruise 
— an  interesting  cruise — you  are  going  to  have,”  were  their 
words  as  we  shook  hands  and  said  “ good-bye.” 

A final  inspection  under  the  “ Arcade ! ” then  we  slurfg 
knapsacks,  and,  to  the  sound  of  the  fife  and  drum  marched  to 
the  lower  end  of  the  Navy  Yard,  where  the  Wachusett  wras 
lying  alongside  the  wharf.  But  one  regretful  face  did  I see 
in  the  “ Guard,”  and  I do  not  wonder  at  its  being  regretful , 
for  H.  has  but  a few  months  longer  to  serve,  and  already  has 
had  nearly  forty  months’  sea  service.  Arriving  at  the  wharf 
we  marched  on  board  the  Wachusett,  over  planks  thrown  out 
from  her  after  pivot  port — the  Wachusett,  which  is  to  be  our 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


11 


home  for  the  next  thirty  months  at  least.  Not  very  attrac- 
tive or  home-like  did  it  appear  to  us — everything  in  uproar 
and  confusion,  and  dirty — awful  dirty  ! 

We  found  the  crew  on  board  before  us,  which  numbers 
about  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  men,  of  almost  every 
color,  shade,  and  nationality.  Some  of  them  were  dressed  in 
citizen  clothing,  some  in  the  regular  man-of-war-man’s  suit, 
and  others  with  a part  of  each.  It  was  an  easy  matter  to 
determine  that  they  had  just  come  from  the  “ Guard  O,”  by 
their  dirty  appearance,  and  in  the  way  that  they  kept  all 
their  possessions  about  them  ; seated  on  a dirty  box,  black- 
bag  (for  clothing)  between  their  knees,  and  tin-pot,  pan,  and 
spoon,  either  held  in  their  hands,  or  fastened  to  a belt  about 
the  waist.  Many  of  them  were  intoxicated,  and  were  ex- 
hibiting the  usual  phenomena  of  such  a condition, — singing, 
shouting,  and  fighting. 

After  an  inspection  by  the  executive  officer,  we  were  per- 
mitted to  go  below,  and,  after  finding  our  quarters,  we  set  to 
work  cleaning  them  up  and  preparing  a place  for  our  bag- 
gage, which  arrived  shortly  after,  and  was  stowed  away.  It 
was  now  dinner  time,  but  owing  to  the  confusion  which  ev- 
erywhere prevailed,  no  dinner  had  been  prepared ; but  we 
managed  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  our  appetites  with  sundry 
slices  of  cold  meat  and  bread  which  we  had  had  the  fore- 
thought to  bring  with  us  from  the  Barracks. 

Immediately  after  coming  on  board  three  sentries  were 
posted  and  a corporal  placed  on  guard,  whose  duties  are  to 
see  that  no  one  leaves  the  ship  or  comes  on  board  without 
permission  from  proper  authorities,  that  no  liquor  is  brought 
on  board,  and  that  good  order  everywhere  is  maintained 
throughout  the  ship.  These  are  the  prominent  duties  of  the 
Marine  Guard,  but  in  addition,  there  are  numberless  other 
less  important  ones  which  they  are  required  to  perform,  so 
that,  although  they  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  managing  and 
cleaning  of  the  ship,  they  can  boast  of  no  more  ease  or  leis- 
ure than  the  seamen. 


12 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


The  unoccupied  moments  that  I have  had  to-day  have 
been  spent  in  a survey  of  the  ship,  in  which  I was  accompa- 
nied by  a boatswain’s  mate,  who,  being  well  versed  in  every- 
thing about  the  ship,  was  able  to  impart  much  valuable  in- 
formation. 

The  Wachusett  is  a screw  propeller,  of  one  thousand  and 
thirty  tons  burden ; bark-rigged,  carrying  top-gallant  sails ; 
is  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet  length  of  keel,  and 
about  forty  feet  beam ; and  carries  a battery  of  ten  guns,  one 
one-hundred,  and  two  thirty  pound  Parrot  rifles,  on  pivot ; 
two  one-hundred  pound  rifles,  and  four  thirty-two’s — smooth 
bore — on  broadside,  and  a twelve  pound  boat-howitzer. 
Her  tall,  slender  spars  ; long,  low,  beautifully  modeled  hull, 
and  the  gracefulness  with  which  she  sits  upon  the  water, 
have  compelled  all  competent  judges  to  pronounce  her  to  be 
one  of  the  finest  vessels  in  our  navy.  All  are  already  disposed 
to  be  proud  of  her,  and  provided  that  her  sailing  qualities 
prove  to  be  equal  to  her  outside  appearance,  none  could  ask 
for  a better  ship. 

The  to’gallant  forecastle  is  an  unusually  large  one,  extend- 
ing nearly  to  the  foremast.  Underneath  is  a fine,  roomy 
place,  where  the  men  can  find  shelter  in  cold  or  stormy 
weather.  There  is  the  scuttle-butt  (in  which  water  for 
drinking  is  kept),  the  Captain’s  galley,  and  cable  compres- 
sers.  There  are  also  hooks  for  about  twenty-five  to  swing 
their  hammocks  underneath  this  forecastle.  Just  forward  of 
the  foremast  is  a hatch,  with  two  ladders  leading  down  to 
the  berth-deck,  and  another  one  just  abaft  the  foremast. 
Continuing  on  aft  to  the  upper  cabin  bulkhead,  come  succes- 
sively the  capstan,  hundred  pound  rifle  on  pivot,  fire-room 
hatches  and  smoke-stack,  the  four  thirty-two’s  on  broadside, 
main-mast,  engine-room  hatch,  steerage  and  ward-room 
hatches,  two  one  hundred  pound  rifles  on  broadside,  ward- 
room sky  light,  mizzen-mast,  cabin  hatch  and  sky-light,  bin- 
nacles, and  helm.  The  poop  is  about  twenty-five  feet  in 
length,  underneath  which  is  the  upper  cabin.  One  of  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


13 


thirty-pound  rifles  is  mounted  on  the  poop,  and  the  other  on 
the  forecastle.  The  bulwarks  are  about  four  feet  high — very 
thick  and  strong : on  top  of  them,  extending  from  the  fore- 
castle to  the  poop,  are  square  troughs,  about  eighteen  inches 
wide  and  deep — the  hammock  nettings ; in  these  the  ham- 
mocks are  stowed  every  morning protected  from  the 

weather  by  a thick,  painted,  canvas  covering. 

Leaving  the  spar-deck  and  going  down  to  the  berth-deck 
by  the  ladder  at  the  foremast  one  finds  himself  in  a dark 
crowded,  dirty,  ill-ventilated  hole,  and,  at  present,  in  the 
greatest  confusion  imaginable.  Just  picture  to  yourself  such 
a place,  and  then  consider,  that  although  barely  seventy-five 
feet  in  length,  it  is  the  place  where  nearly  two  hundred  men 
must  eat,  sleep,  and  in  a great  measure  live ! About  ten 
feet  of  the  forward  part  of  the  deck  is  partitioned  off,  and  is 
used  as  an  apartment  for  prisoners — in  naval  parlance  de- 
nominated the  “ Brig.”  Close  by  this  are  two  apartments, 
two  feet  square — the  “ sweat-boxes,”  and  near  these  are  two 
reals  containing  large  hawsers.  The  “ galley  ” occupies  a 
central  position  on  the  deck,  and  is  said  to  be  an  uncommonly 
good  and  convenient  one.  Extending  along  the  sides  of  the 
berth-deck  are  iron  rods  about  four  feet  high,  called  “jack- 
stays,”  to  which  the  black-bags  are  fastened.  Ranging  up 
and  down  on  either  side  of  the  deck  are  the  mess-chests,  four 
feet  Jong  and  two  feet  wide  and  deep,  in  which  are  kept  the 
dishes  and  some  articles  of  food.  In  the  after  corner,  on  the 
port  side,  is  the  Paymaster’s  Issuing-room,  and  in  the  oppo- 
site corner  are  two  small  rooms,  one  of  which  is  the  Ser- 
geant’s Store-room,  and  the  other  the  Surgeon’s  Dispensary. 
Between  these  rooms  are  two  coal-shutes,  and  a reel  holding 
an  eleven-inch  hawser,  leaving  a narrow  passage-way  behind 
them,  in  which  is  a table,  at  which  I am  now  sitting  and 
writing  to  you.  The  berth-deck  is  separated  from  the  fire- 
room  by  a double-walled  partition  of  wood  and  iron. 

Underneath  the  forward  part  of  the  berth-deck  are  several 


14 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


store-rooms,  the  Yeoman’s  room,  and  the  powder  magazines. 
Underneath  the  after  portion  are  the  holds,  chain-lockers, 
and  water-tanks. 

The  berth-deck  is  lighted  b}'-  means  of  small,  round  aper- 
tures in  the  ship’s  sides,  which  are  closed  by  thick  circlets  of 
glass,  set  in  iron  frames,  and  called  “ dead-lights.”  If  these 
were  but  cleaned  of  the  dust  and  cob-webs  that  now  cover 

them,  the  ship  would  be  far  lighter  than  it  now  is — lighter  in 
both  acceptations  of  the  word. 

Of  the  remaining  parts  of  the  ship  I will  make  mention  in 
some  future  letter,  when  I have  had  more  time  and  better  op- 
portunities for  examining  them,  and  am  better  acquainted. 
I have  had  as  yet  no  good  opportunities  for  forming  an  opin- 
ion of  the  crew,  and  should  I narrate  my  experiences  thus  far, 
with  them,  ther£  would  be  nothing  but  what  you  might  see 
and  hear  every  day  around  any  rum-selling  tavern.  So  I 
shall  wait  for  something  better. 

Now,  provided  your  patience,  even,  has  held  out  thus  far,  I 
imagine  that  I hear  you  saying  to  yourself — “ I think  that  L. 
really  needed  all  the  promises  that  I made  him  ; I shall  have 
to  take  the  will  for  the  deed,  and  if  all  his  letters  are  going 
to  be  of  this  stamp,  I am  afraid  that  they  will  fail  to  awaken 
the  interest  and  pleasure  that  I hoped  and  expected  to  derive 
from  them.” 

Have  patience,  my  dear  R.,  I know  that  the  most  that  I 
have  written  thus  far,  must  seem  dry  and  uninteresting  to 
you ; but  yet,  exercising  that  liberty  of  selection  which  you 
so  kindly  granted  me,  I thought  best,  in  the  first  place,  to 
give  you  some  description  of  the  place  that  for  so  long  a time 
I must  call  my  home,  and  some  little  insight  into  my  duties : 

then,  I shall  be  the  better  able  to  devote  my  whole  time  and 
space  to  the  narration  of  the  interesting  incidents  of  the 
cruise.  So  I have  devoted  this  introductory  letter  to  the 
aforesaid  description  and  insight,  and  now  I think  that  I can 
promise  you,  that  in  my  next  letter  you  will  find  a change 
lor  the  better. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


15 


LETTER  II, 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Boston  Harbor, 
March  4,  1865. 

My  Dear  R. : 

A cold,  drizzling  rain  has  baptized  oar  first  three  days’ 
stay  on  board  the  Wachusett — the  beginning  of  from  two  to 
three  years  of  such  existence.  Of  course  you  wish  to  know 
how  our  time  has  been  employed,  so  I will  tell  you.  One 
and  all  have  been  as  busy  as  bees,  and  hard  at  work  from 
morning  till  night  in  making  the  thousand  and  one  necessary 
preparations  for  sea. 

In  commencement  I must  narrate  to  you  my  first  night’s 
experience.  Leaving  barracks  in  such  haste  as  we  did,  I 
was  not  sufficiently  careful  in  slinging  my  hammock,  as  I 
found  out  by  an  unpleasant  occurrence.  I was  very  tired  and 
sleepy,  and  was  folded  in  the  embrace  of  Morpheus  almost 
as  soon  as  I had  got  into  my  hammock,  but  had  been  in  this 
agreeable  situation  but  a very  few  minutes  when  “ down  I 
came  by  the  run,’’  the  clews  having  slipped  out  from  both 
ends  of  the  hammock.  I was  so  seriously  injured  by  the 
fall,  that  I have  been  unable  to  do  any  duty  since. 

Did  you  ever  sleep  in  a hammock  ? If  not,  you  have 
missed  one  of  the  greatest  discomforts  there  is  in  the  world. 
Before  trying  to  impress  upon  your  mind  wherein  that  dis- 
comfort consists,  I must  first  endeavor  to  give  you  some  idea 
of  the  construction  of  a hammock.  Take  a piece  of  canvass  or 
strong  cloth,  six  feet  in  length  and  three  in  width,  and  make 
ten  or  twelve  eyelet  holes  in  each  end ; then,  in  these  holes 
fasten — securely,  mind  you — strong  cords,  about  two  feet  long ; 
and  the  other  extremities  of  the  cords,  at  each  end,  fasten  to  a 


16 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


ring;  by  means  of  the  rings,  hang  up  the  hammock  on  hooks, 
so  placed  that  it  will  be  stretched  nearly  as  much  as  possible  ; 
now  place  in  it  a mattress  to  lie  upon,  a blanket  for  covering, 
and  the  hammock  is  ready  for  use.  Be  very  careful,  now 
in  getting  into  it,  else  you  will  meet  with  the  same  mishaps 
that  I met  with  in  my  first  attempts.  First  I tried  getting 
into  it  the  same  as  though  I was  getting  into  a bed.  The 
result  was,  I went  completely  over  it,  striking  head  foremost 
on  the  deck  on  the  opposite  side.  Next,  I made  the  attempt 
from  a camp-stool,  but  that  plan  ended  like  the  first,  by  my 
being  on  deck.  The  third  trial,  I took  hold  of  two  ham- 
mock hooks  overhead,  and  finally  managed  to  swing  myself 
into  the  hammock,  but  had  to  keep  firm  hold  of  the  hooks 
to  prevent  my  falling  out ; and  there  I lay,  not  daring  to  let 
go,  or  move  even.  To  make  this  more  impressively  disagree- 
able, you  need  to  be  slightly  sea-sick,  feel  miserably  in  gen- 
eral, and  have  the  ship  rolling  and  pitching  about  wildly. 

But  to  return,  you  are  now  in  your  hammock,  and  find 
yourself  describing  an  arc  of  a circle,  with  your  head  and 
feet  elevated  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees,  whilst 
the  sides  of  the  hammock  are  drawn  up  around  you,  so  that 
it  would  not  take  a great  stretching  of  the  imagination  for 
you  to  imagine  yourself  in  a bag.  In  this  undertaking  you 
would  have  great  assistance  could  you  only  be  situated  as  we 
are — each  man’s  “ billet,”  or  sleeping  room  being  but  four- 
teen inches  wide.  Seven  men  sleeping  in  a bed  eight  feet 
wide  affords  the  best  comparison  that  I can  make.  When  one 
turns  or  moves,  the  motion  is  communicated  to  all ; conse- 
quently we  are  ever  pleased  when  a neighbor  is  called  to  go 
on  post.  This  for  the  past  few  days  has  had  its  drawbacks, 
for,  when  he  would  return  after  his  two  hours  of  guard  duty 
were  over,  just  as  we  were  beginning  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of 
“ more  room,”  we  had  a wet  bed-fellow.  Besides  this,  we  can 
never  count  upon  having  more  than  two  hours  of  continuous 
sleep,  for,  not  yet  acquainted,  the  “ corporal  of  the  Guard’’ 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


17 


often  wakens  the  wrong  man — usually,  the  right  man  last. 
Still,  notwithstanding  all  these  many  discomforts,  old  sailors 
would  prefer  a hammock  to  sleep  in,  to  the  best  bed  ; and  I 
haven’t  the  least  doubt  but  that  1 shall  turn  to  it  as  the  source 
of  one  of  my  greatest  enjoyments  during  the  cruise.  The 
“ old  salts”  had  a hearty  laugh  this  eve,  at  the  expense  of  a 
landsman  who  was  searching  for  his  hammock  on  the  “ East 
Boston  side  of  the  ship,”  saying  that  he  placed  it  there  this 
morning.  After  he  had  searched  the  hammock  nettings  on 
that  side  many  times  over  in  vain,  and  was  about  concluding 
that  the  hammock  was  lost,  some  one  told  him  that  the  ship 
had  swung  with  th6  tide  since  then,  and  he  would  probably 
find  it  on  “ the  Boston  side  ;”  and  so  he  did. 

A few  words  now  about  mess  arrangements.  The  crew  is 
divided  into  messes  of  from  ten  to  twenty  persons,  and  one 
of  the  number  is  called  the  “cook  of  the  mess.  He  does 
not  cook,  but  receives  from  the  purser’s  steward  the  daily 
ration  allotted  to  his  mess,  ties  the  various  articles  together 
in  bundles  and  marks  them  with  a stick  or  talley,  on  which  is 
cut  the  number  of  the  mess,  and  takes  care  of  the  mess  chest, 
the  mess  pots,  pans,  dishes,  and  other  articles  belonging  to 
the  mess  in  common.  The  rations  are  always  served  out  on 
the  day  preceding  that  to  which  they  belong.  Each  mess 
cook  delivers  his  share  to  the  ship’s  cook,  who,  with  an  assist- 
ant, prepares  it  all  in  the  “ coppers”  under  his  charge.  Just 
before  noon  he  takes  a sample  to  the  officer  of  the  deck  to 
show  that  it  is  properly  done,  and  if  so  the  mess  cooks  re- 
ceive the  “ grub”  again  from  the  ship’s  cook.  At  noon  they 
spread  painted  cloths  upon  the  deck,  place  the  “ grub”  and 
dishes  upon  them,  and  then  the  boatswain’s  mates  pipe  all 
hands  to  dinner.  The  same  ceremonies  are  observed  at  break- 
fast and  supper,  with  the  exception  that  the  only  articles  re- 
ceived from  the  ship’s  cook  is  her  water  for  coffee  and  tea. 

All  the  messes  have  coiltributed  greater  or  lesser  amounts 
with  which  to  purchase  extra  stores  and  conveniences  for 
2* 


18 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


their  messes,  and  the  berth-deck  is  now  fairly  lumbered  up 
with  barrels  of  flour,  potatoes,  and  such  like  articles  which 
they  have  purchased. 

What  I have  mentioned  refers  exclusively  to  the  men  or 
crew,  each  division  of  officers  having  its  own  apartment,  its 
own  cooking  apparatus  and  special  cook.  Of  these  divisions 
there  are  four — the  starboard,  steerage,  or  “ gun-room,”  the 
engineer’s  steerage,  the  ward-room,  and  the  Captain’s. 

To-day  “ Old  Abe”  takes  the  Presidential  chair  for  another 
four  years,  over  which  the  firing  of  cannon  and  the  ringing 
of  bells  indicate  that  the  city,  in  common  with  the  whole 
nation,  rejoiceth.  God  grant  that  the  acts  of  his  administra- 
tion may  be  tempered  with  wisdom  and  justice,  and  some 
means  be  devised  soon  to  bring  this  bitter  civil  war  to  a close. 

Sunday  March  5th. — This  morning  the  outside  world 
brightened  up  a little.  During  the  forenoon  the  Captain 
came  on  board,  and  after  a thorough  inspection  of  the  ship, 
etc.,  we  were  pronounced  to  be  ready  for  sea.  Accordingly 
at  3 p.  m.,  we  weighed  anchor  and  slowly  steamed  down  the 
bay  in  charge  of  the  pilot.  About  an  hour  later  we  passed 
Fort  Warren,  and  the  soldiers  there  stationed  came  down  on 
the  beach  and  gave  us  three  hearty  cheers  as  we  passed. 

I have  just  been  up  on  the  forecastle,  taking  a farewel’ 
look  at  Boston,  and  now  but  the  dim  outline  of  the  land  cai 
be  seen.  A farewell  look,  and  for  how  long?  Some  of  th 
most  sanguine  say  for  only  two  years,  others  say  thirty  months^ 
w hile  there  are  many  who  think  we  will  be  fortunate  if  we 
see  the  United  States  again  within  three  years.  So  think  L 
But  some  there  are  amongst  us  who  have  taken  their  last 
look  of  country,  friends,  home,  and  all  they  hold  most  near 
and  dear.  We  are  all  hoping  that  we  may  not  be  of  that 
number,  but  Death,  the  tyrant,  ever  disregards  our  wishes, 
and  takes  us,  ready  or  not.  No,  ft  is  not  probable  that  the 
Wachusett  will  prove  an  exception  to  the  general  rule,  but 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


19 


it  carries  out  many  that  have  bid  home  and  friends  “ good- 
bye” forever. 

But  all  at  this  time  are  not  sad ; a large  number  of  the 
crew  are  far  from  being  so ; while  many  of  us  are  scarcely 
able  to  keep  back  the  tears  from  our  eyes,  at  the  thoughts  of 
the  long  separation  from  home  and  friends,  and  the  possibility 
of  never  beholding  them  again,  there  are  many  “ poor  Jacks” 
who  have  no  deeper  feeling  than  that  they  are  leaving  a 
hospitable  place  where  they  have  whiled  away  a few  jovial 
hours,  in  a social  way.  He  may  think  of  the  changes  that 
will  occur  before  he  returns,  but  all  that  kind  of  gratuitous 
boding  will  be  little  more  than  a flash  across  Jack’s  mind 
and  if  it  finds  utterance  at  all,  the  following  stanza  may  give 
it  full  vent: 

“ The  sea  bird  wheels  above  the  mast, 

And  the  waters  fly  below, 

And  the  foaming  billows  flashing  fast, 

Are  leaping  up  the  prow. 

Hurrah ! hurrah ! the  shores  we  quit, 

And  those  who  are  within, 

May  they  be  safe  and  standing  yet, 

When  we  cross  these  waves  again  !” 


20 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  III. 


My  Dear  R. 


IT.  S.  S.  Wachusktt, 

Fort  de  France,  Martinique,  West  Indie?, 
March  16,  1865. 


I will  now  get  a letter  in  readiness  so  as  to  be  able  to  mail 
it  at  the  first  opportunity.  I*  left  you  in  my  last  letter  just 
as  we  were  taking  a farewell  look  at  the  United  States.  But 
we  had  only  a few  minutes  given  us  for  the  sad  thoughts 
which  were  fast  overcoming  the  most  of  us,  when  the  boat- 
swain and  his  mates  piped  “all  hands  to  muster.”  All 
crowded  aft  on  the  lee  side  of  the  quarter  deck,  and  then  the 
executive  officer  gave  all  their  stations  at  the  battery,  divided 
the  crew  into  watches,  and  appointed  them  to  different  parts 
of  the  ship : forecastlemen  to  the  forecastle,  foretopmen  to 
the  foretop,  maintopmen  to  the  maintop,  and  afterguards  to 
the  after  part  of  the  ship.  Over  each  division  two  captains 
were  appointed.  The  marines  and  firemen  were  not  included 
in  this  division,  they  having  their  peculiar  duties  to  perform. 

One  watch — composed  of  one-half  of  the  seamen — is  kept 
on  deck  all  of  the  time  at  sea,  to  manage  and  take  care  of 
the  ship,  and  is  relieved  by  the  others  every  four  hours. 
The  watch  from  4 to  8 p.  m.  is  divided  into  two  watches  of 
two  hours  each,  for,  otherwise  one  portion  of  the  crew  would 
have  the  same  hours  every  day.  These  are  denominated 
the  “ dog-watches.”  When  “ all  hands  ” are  called  to  loose 
or  furl  sail,  get  up  anchor,  or  any  other  business  that  requires 
“ all  hands,”  then  no  one  is  excused  unless  on  duty  at  the 
time  that  will  not  admit  of  being  left. 

Other  musters  a few  days  later,  gave  all  their  stations  at 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER, 


21 


loosing  and  furling  sail,  and  fire-quarters.  The  marines 
have  the  thirty-pound  rifle  on  the  poop,  are  stationed  at  the 
main  try-sail  in  loosing  and  furling  sail,  and  at  the  boats’ 
falls,  in  fire-quarters,  with  instructions  to  allow  no  one  to 
lower  a boat  but  by  the  orders  of  the  commanding  officer. 

Our  course  after  leaving  Boston  was  easterly,  steaming 
along  against  a light  head  wind,  until  Wednesday  morning, 
when  it  was  altered  to  the  southward,  and  we  set  fore  and. 
aft  sails.  Our  destination  was  a dead  secret , of  course  : many 
knowing  conjectures  were  made  as  to  the  first  port  we  would 
make,  but  no  one  knew  excepting  the  Captain  and  Sailing- 
master  ; because,  if  we  all  knew',  the  Captain  would  be  no 
wiser  than  ourselves,  and  the  profound  humbug  of  mysteries 
would  be  lost  to  our  wonder. 

The  first  two  or  three  days  out  were  spent  by  the  crew  in 
holystoning  the  decks,  ladders,  and  gratings,  with  sand,  scrub- 
bing the  paint-work,  cleaning  the  bright-work  at  the  guns 
and  cleaning  and  polishing  up,  and  putting  everything  in  or- 
der generally.  In  all  this  they  had  ?.uch  good  success  that 
at  the  end  the  Wachusett  appeared  like  an  entirely  different 
ship  from  the  one  that  first  met  our  gaze  lying  alongside. the 
wharf  at  Charlestown  Navy  Yard.  Removing  the  dust  and 
cobwebs  from  the  “dead-lights,”  made  the  berth-deck  much 
lighter , as  I supposed  that  it  would  do. 

Monday  evening  we  crossed  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 
The  night  was  very  dark,  and  we  came  very  near  running 
down  a fishing  schooner  which  was  “ lying  to  ” there.  As  it 
was  we  carried  away  her  jib-boom.  She  had  not  a single 
light  displayed,  and  if  there  was  any  one  on  “ look-out,”  he 
must  have  been  asleep— certainly  he  was  not  attending  to 
his  duty,  else  he  would  surely  have  seen  our  lights.  I 
should  think  that  their  narrow  escape  would  make  them 
more  careful  in  the  future. 

A few  days  out,  and  the  crew  showed  some  signs  of  arous- 
ing themselves  out, of  that  lethargy  in  which  they  had  bee  : 


22 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


since  leaving  Boston,  and  showed  themselves  to  be  a smart, 
lively,  fine-looking  body  of  men.  But  what  a variety  of 
color,  shade,  and  nationality,  they  present ! If  Adam  should 
look  down  upon  them  from  the  windows  of  heaven,  he  would 
hardly  recognize  them  all  as  memhers  of  his  family.  One 
evening  I had  just  finished  “ posting  my  Journal,”  when 
hearing  the  sounds  of  mirth  on  deck,  I went  up  to  see  what 
was  going  on.  Before  leaving  Boston  the  crew  purchased  a 
variety  of  musical  instruments,  boxing-gloves,  and  foils,  with 
which  to  enliven  the  dullness  and  monotony  of  shipboard  ex- 
istence. But  to  return : arriving  on  deck  I found  that  the 
sounds  of  mirth  which  I had  heard,  proceeded  from  a party 
dancing  to  the  sound  of  the  violin  and  guitar.  A performer 
was  soon  found  for  the  banjo,  one  for  the  flute,  another  for 
the  tamborine,  and  yet  another  for  the  bones.  After  a few 
minutes  employed  in  tuning , all  struck  up  together,  and  then 
one  and  all  joined  in  a “ good  old-fashioned  breakdown,”  and 
with  such  zest  and  gusto  as  to  fairly  make  the  Wachusett 
tremble.  Many  of  the  officers  came  forward,  and  although 
the  sense  of  their  dignity  forbade  them  from  joining,  they  ap- 
peared to  enjoy  the  sports  but  little  less  than  the  actual  par- 
ticipants, as  was  manifested  by  their  cheers,  and  cries  of 
“ keep  it  up.” 

When  all  were  tired  of  dancing,  the  music  struck  up  some 
familiar  home  airs,  and  then  the  sports  of  the  evening  were 
varied  by  singing.  What  a purifier  and  elevator  of  the 
mind  and  thoughts  is  music ! How  much  it  tends  to  draw 
forth  the  higher  and  better  feelings  of  one’s  nature ! This 
is  true,  wherever  found  or  under  what  shape.  Some  excel- 
lent songs  were  sung  that  night,  and  well  sung,  too,  and  I,  for 
one,  was  never  more  impressed  with  the  power  and  influence 
of  music,  than  I then  was  impressed.  All  felt  more  cheerful 
and  happy  for  these  few  hours’  pleasure,  and  so  far  as  pos- 
sible, have  repeated  the  sports  thus  inaugurated,  with  some 
variations,  every  night.  Sometimes  w<*  were  too  tired  for 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


23 


sports,  as  the  greater  portion  of  each  day  was  taken  up  in 
exercising  with  the  battery,  and  making  ourselves  acquainted 
with  our  several  duties.  We  have  yet  hardly  become  accus- 
tomed to  the  great  change  in  the  weather,  which  daily  grew 
warmer  as  we  proceeded  further  to  the  southward,  and  even 
before  the  first  week  had  passed,  the  last  overcoat  and  muffler 
were  stowed  away,  awaiting  some  future  need. 

The  first  Sunday  out,  I was  for  the  first  time  introduced 
to  the  manner  in  which  the  Sabbath  is  regarded  and  kept  on 
board  of  a man-of-war.  It  is  regarded  by  nearly  all,  more 
as  a day  for  rest  and  recreation  than  anything  else.  There 
is  some  faint  attempt  made  outwardly  to  acknowledge  the 
Sabbath,  to  be  sure,  but  then  it  is  obvious  to  all  that  it  is 
done  only  because  the  law  so  requireth,  and  the  Captain 
wishes  to  conform  to  the  requirements  of  the  law  in  this  res- 
pect. Many,  I found,  were  seriously  questioning  and  doubt- 
ing in  their  minds  whether  or  no  it  was  really  Sunday,  but 
finally  concluded  that  it  must  be,  as  rice  was  served  out  the 
day  before,  and  “rice  is  served  out  only  for  Sunday  dinners.” 

It  being  decided  that  it  was  Sunday,  all  set  to  work  clean- 
ing, polishing,  and  dressing  the  ship  and  themselves  for  the 
Captain’s  inspection 'at  10  a.  m.  Then  all  assembled  at  their 
stations  at  quarters,  dressed  in  their  best,  and  with  their  arms 
cleaned  and  brightly  polished.  Could  one  only  stand  on  the 
forecastle  during  a Sunday  inspection,  when  everything  is 
so  neat  and  clean,  and  previously  knowing  nothing  about  a 
man-of-war,  the  sight  would  impress  that  one,  that  a sailor’s 
life  was  elevated  above  that  of  common  mortals.  But  one 
short  week’s  experience  would  thoroughly  dispel  that  illusion. 

After  inspection  “all  hands”  were  called  aft  on  the  quar- 
ter-deck to  muster,  whilst  the  sea-service  of  the  Episcopal 
Church  was  read  by  the  Captain.  This  is  omitted  on  many 
men-of-war,  and  done  on  the  Wachusett,  as  I said  before, 
because  the  Captain  wished  to  fulfill  the  requirements  of  the 
law  in  this  respect.  I express  the  feelings  of  many  when  I 


24 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


say,  that  I should  like  very  much  to  be  so  situated  as  to  be 
able  to  attend  church  every  Sunday.  Without  this  privilege* 
and  surrounded  by  the  ever  attending  influences  of  a man- 
• of-war,  we  will  find  it  extremely  difficult,  sometimes,  to  make 
Sunday  appear  like  Sunday  to  us.  But  many  months,  years 
in  fact,  will  intervene  before  that  time  comes  again. 

After  service,  the  remainder  of  the  day,  by  the  kindness 
of  the  Captain,  is  given  to  the  crew  to  smoke,  write,  read, 
and  do  such-like  things  for  themselves,  as  they  may  choose. 
But  once  a month,  on  these  sacred  Sabbath  mornings,  we 
have  “ general  muster,”  when  the  articles  of  war  are  read 
to  us  in  all  their  thundering  terrors,  and  the  often  recur- 
ring penalty  which  closes  so  many  sentences,  “ Death,  or  such 
other  punishment  as  a court  martial  shall  adjudge” — the 
halter  and  the  bullet. 

In  speaking  of  this,  the  remark  of  an  eminent  surgeon  in 
our  Navy  is  brought  to  my  mind.  “ There  seems  to  be  a 
strange  overlooking,  or  inconsistent  view  of  human  nature  9 
or  Navy  nature  is  not  human  nature.  In  the  first  place 
there  is  an  expectation  that  every  one  who  goes  on  board  of 
a man-of-war,  is  to  hold  all  sorts  of  deaths — by  hanging, 
shooting,  or  drowning — in  utter  contempt.  Indeed  it  seems 
as  though  he  is  to  seek  them  as  the  natural  end  of  existence, 
and  to  be  hung  or  shot  for  avoiding  them ; and  yet  these  are 
the  official  threats 

‘ To  haud  the  wretch  in  order,’  ” 

and  once  a month,  on  sacred  Sabbath  mornings,  they  are  fero- 
ciously shaken  over  our  heads,  begetting  no  other  feelings 
than  contempt  or  defiance. 

Another  statement  by  the  same  surgeon  is  very  truthful : 
“ The  assembled  wisdom  of  the  nation,  by  slow  and  painful 
processes,  got  a kind  of  inkling  that  terror  and  threats  were 
not  the  most  expedient  means  of  governing  the  American 
seamen ; and  they  devised  a code  which,  in  pay,  privileges, 
and  honorable  testimonies,  offers  a reward  for  fidelity  and  obe- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


25 


dience.  But  this  ray  of  sunshine  was  not  permitted  to 
gleam  through  the  death  penalty  and  the  gloom  of  the  ar- 
ticles of  war.  It  was  a mistake.  How  many  beside  the 
Chinese  are  befogged  by  ‘ ola  custom  ! ’ ” 

Since  leaving  Boston,  I have  been  on  duty  as  one  of  the 
captain’s  orderlies,  and  in  this  capacity  I have  been  able  to 
see  and  know  much  about  our  Captain.  Those  acquainted 
with  him  can  but  agree  with  me  in  saying  that  he  is  a thorough 
seaman,  a perfect  gentleman,  and  one  of  the  most  polished 
scholars  ever  met  with.  He  is  a very  firm,  intelligent  looking 
man,  of  about  forty-five  years  of  age,  and,  although  my  ac- 
quaintance with  him  is  short,  I have  no  hesitation  in  saying 
that  the  appearance  is  but  typical  of  the  man.  After  serv- 
ing through  the  Mexican  war,  he  resigned,  and  was  spending 
a quiet  life  at  home  at  the  outbreak  of  the  rebellion.  He 
promptly  offered  his  services,  and  was  accepted,  his  old  rank 
of  Lieutenant  being  given  him.  He  was  at  the  passage  of 
Forts  Jackson  and  Philip,  and  the  capture  of  New  Orleans. 
Afterwards  he  did  good  service  on  the  coast  of  North  Caro- 
lina, and  was  rewarded  by  the  rank  of  Commander  in  the 
regular  service.  His  latest  services  were  rendered  while  in 
command  of  the  iron-clad  Essex,  and  he  is  spoken  of  as  be- 
ing “ one  of  the  best  fighting  men  on  the  Mississippi  and  Bed 
rivers.”  Commander  Colvocoresses,  was  first  appointed  to 
the  command  of  the  Wachusett,  but  Captain  Townsend  subse- 
quently received  the  appointment  upon  his  making  the  request. 
It  is  rumored  that  at  the  end  of  this  cruise  he  intends  to 
resign  and  return  to  citizen’s  life  again.  With  him  as  Cap- 
tain, I am  certain  that  we  shall  have  a pleasant  and  inter- 
esting cruise. 

Lieutenant  John  W.  Philip  is  the  executive  officer.  He 
is  a fine  looking,  well  formed  young  man,  of  twenty-five 
years  of  age,  and,  judging  by  his  appearance  and  actions  thus 
far,  is  a man  of  great  determination,  and  an  almost  indomi- 
table will.  He  is  a graduate  of  the  Naval  Academy,  and 


26 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


although  so  young,  has  seen  much  service.  The  other  officers 
I have  seen  but  little  of  as  yet,  and  therefore  am  unable  to 
introduce  them  to  you.  Will  only  say  that  as  yet,  I have 
had  no  occasion  to  disagree  with  my  friend  in  his  good  ac- 
count of  them. 

From  the  thorough  cleansing  of  the  ship  yesterday,  as 
well  as  the  polishing  down,  the  crew  augured  that  we  would 
soon  make  some  port,  and  in  this  surmise,  they  proved  to  be 
correct ; for,  when  I went  on  deck  this  morning,  I found  that 
we  were  “ lying  to,”  and  had  been  thus  since  midnight. 
Many  anxious  eyes  were  looking  out  for  land,  and  soon  their 
search  was  rewarded,  and  the  joyful  cry  heard  “ land  ho !” 
A little  later,  and  the  high,  dark  line  off  our  starboard  quar- 
ter, resolved  itself  into  two  parts,  looking  like  blue  clouds  in 
the  distance,  but  which  were  soon  known  to  be  the  islands  of 
Dominica  and  Martinique.  Both  of  these  islands  are  very 
high  and  mountainous.  Mt.  Solferino  on  Dominica,  attains 
to  the  height  of  6,075  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
Mt.  Peeler  on  Martinique,  to  4,430  feet. 

Our  run  from  Boston  was  characterized  most  of  the  time 
by  clear,  pleasant  weather,  a smooth  sea,  favorable  winds, 
and  little,  if  any,  sea  sickness.  To-day  is  certainly  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  days  I ever  saw,  just  such  as  one  would 
desire  on  which  to  behold  a foreign  shore  for  the  first  time. 
Soft  and  balmy  is  the  air,  blue  and  gently  rippling  the  sea, 
and  everything  in  nature  apparently  striving  to  make  all 
things  appear  beautiful  to  us,  and  to  create  in  us  fit  thoughts 
and  feelings  to  enjoy  whatever  is  beautiful. 

As  soon  as  it  was  daylight,  we  got  up  steam  and  started 
ahead  again,  leaving  Dominica  on  our  starboard  bow,  and 
Martinique  on  our  port.  The  islands  are  situated  about  forty 
miles  apart,  but  they  are  so  high  and  mountainous  that  it  ap- 
peared to  be  barely  one-third  that  distance  as  we  passed  be- 
tween them. 

Dominica  presented  to  our  view  nothing  but  a huge  mass 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


27 


of  barren  rock,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  prospect  was  en- 
tirely different.  More  than  one  I heard  to  exclaim,  “ how 
beautiful !”  as  they  gazed  upon  the  shore  of  Martinique. 
Indeed  it  was  truly  beautiful,  its  beauty  enhanced  no  doubt 
by  the  great  contrast  it  presented  to  the  last  view  of  the 
country  we  had  left  so  recently.  There  the  ground  was 
covered  with  ice  and  snow,  and  everything  barren  and  dead. 
Here  everything  is  fresh  and  green,  the  hills  clothed  with 
verdure,  the  trees  covered  with  leaves  and  fruits,  and  the  air 
warm  and  balmy  as  that  of  our  summer.  The  change  seems 
almost  wonderful ; ’tis  like  going  to  sleep  in  mid-winter,  and 
not  waking  again  till  mid-summer. 

At  such  a time,  and  in  such  a scene  one  may  be  excused 
a little  poetical  emotion — nay,  would  not  one  without  it  have 
that  unpoetical  soul  which  the  master  of  the  human  heart  has 
told  us,  is  “ fit  for  treason,  stratagem,  and  spoil  ?”  It  has 
been  remarked  that,  “ islands,  all  islands,  are  poetical  exis- 
tences in  themselves : their  philosophy  is  poetry,  mysterious 
in  their  sea  boundaries,  cut  off  from  the  grave,  solid,  unchang- 
ing character  of  the  mainland  ; tj^ey  grow  gradually  from 
the  deep  sea  depths,  by  the  microscopic  labors  of  the  coral, 
insect,  or  thrown  at  once  into  the  upper  air  amid  earthquake 
throes,  and  volcanic  convulsions,  shaking  the  earth  to  its  cen- 
tre. They  are  the  abodes  of  pirate  heroes,  and  goat  skin 
clad  Cruisers.”  Nothing  of  this  kind,  however,  is  the  story 
that  Martinique  has  to  tell.  It  simply  has  to  boast  that  here 
Josephine,  the  first  wife  of  Napoleon,  was  born,  and  that 
here  her  early  childhood  was  passed. 

But  to  return  to  where  I was  before  this  digression,  near- 
ing Martinique,  whose  shores  we  were  all  admiring  so  much. 
Deep  gullies  cut  the  mountainous  sides — beautifully  wooded 
glens,  through  which  charming  rivulets  could  be  seen  tracing 
their  course  by  the  flashing  and  sparkling  of  the  waters  in 
the  sunlight  as  they  leaped  over  some  miniature  precipice. 
Between  these  wooded  glens  were  patches  of  sugar  cane, 


28 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


grain,  and  vegetables,  the  whole  dotted  here  and  there  by  a 
dwelling,  embowered  in  a grove  of  orange  trees. 

I was  on  duty  at  the  time,  and  perhaps  I did  not  conduct 
myself  exactly  a la  militaire , standing  up  in  the  after  pivot 
port,  and  with  my  little  glass  taking  a view  of  everything 
that  we  passed,  in  short,  utterly  unconscious  that  I was  not 
on  some  pleasure  trip,  instead  of  being  under  the  rigid  dis- 
cipline of  a man-of-war.  But  no  one  said  me  “ nay,”  and 
I can  but  think  that  the  Captain  kindly  permitted  it  all,  for 
several  times  I noticed  him  smilingly  watching  my  enthusi- 
astic observations.  Let  it  be  as  it  may,  I enjoyed  it  all,  and 
was  not  reproved,  so  I am  satisfied.  One  of  the  principal 
benefits  which  I am  to  derive  from  my  being  in  the  Navy, 
is  to  see  foreign  countries,  and  to  learn  something  of  the 
manners,  customs,  and  other  points  of  interest  about  the  peo- 
ple. So  I shall  gratify  my  curiosity,  and  benefit  myself, 
whenever  an  opportunity  offers  itself,  so  that  it  can  be  done 
consistently. 

Farther  on,  and  leaving  the  high  lands,  we  next  sailed 
along  the  shores  of  a low,  level  section  of  the  island,  and 
which  was  in  a high  state  of  cultivation.  Thus  alternating, 
at  one  time  having  the  country  nearest  us  high  and  moun- 
tainous, then  low  and  level,  and  our  course  constantly  chang- 
ing as  we  followed  the  shore  line,  we  finally  entered  a large 
indentation  of  the  coast  on  the  southern  side  of  the  islands, 
and  at  noon  dropped  anchor,  about  half  a mile  from  the 
pretty  little  town  of  Fort  de  France,  situated  at  the  inner- 
most point. 

The  harbor  here  is  large,  and,  although  merely  an  inden- 
tation in  the  coast,  it  is  said  to  be  very  secure,  as  the  wind 
seldom  blows  from  the  direction  of  the  open  sea  during  a 
storm.  There  is  but  little  shipping  here,  two  or  three  mer- 
chant vessels,  two  English  and  three  French  men-of-war, 
with  a few  schooners  and  smaller  craft  comprising  the  whole. 

The  town  stretches  along  a slightly  sloping  pebbly  beach, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


29 


and  as  viewed  from  the  ship,  it  is  exceedingly  neat  and  quite 
picturesque,  with  its  small  whitewashed,  tile-roofed  houses, 
and,  scattered  here  and  there,  fine  large  mansions  situated 
in  beautiful  gardens  and  fairly  embowered  in  trees.  To  the 
left  of  the  town  is  a bold,  rocky  eminence,  on  the  summit  of 
which  stands  a large  stone  fortress,  from  whose  tall  flag-staff 
floats  the  tri-color — Martinique  belonging  to  the  French.  Be- 
hind the  town  the  land  rises  abruptly  so  as  to  form  quite  a 
high  mountain.  About  half  way  up  its  side,  a small  cottage 
is  pointed  out  to  me  as  the  one  in  which  Josephine  was 
born. 

I should  like  very  much  to  go  on  shore  this  afternoon  and 
sit  awhile  under  the  trees  of  the  pretty  little  park,  near  the 
middle  of  the  town,  and  which  looks  so  charmingly  cool  and 
inviting  from  the  ship.  Although  but  little  more  than  two 
weeks  ago  I was  on  shore,  it  actually  seems  as  though  it  was 
more  than  as  many  months.  Oh  for  a good  ramble  in  the 
country  1 To  fully  realize  this  great  deprivation,  one  must 
have  a nature  which  leads  him  from  the  trammels  of  city  life, 
must  to  the  fullest  extent  be  susceptible  to  the  charms  of 
country  life — in  the  countr^  finding  what  is  most  congenial 
to  his  nature.  This  is  the  better,  the  holier,  the  happier 
solitude  to  which  the  poet  invites.  It  is  to  the  wilds  and 
groves  of  Nature. 

“ God’s  first  temples  ere  man  learned 
To  hew  the  shaft  and  lay  the  architrave 
And  spread  the  roof  above  them, — ere  he  framed 
The  lofty  vaults,  to  gather  and  roll  back 
The  sound  of  anthems.” 

There  indeed  may  the  lonely  ones 

“ Go  forth,  under  the  open  sky,  and  list 
To  Nature’s  teachings,  while  from  all  around, 

Earth  and  her  waters  and  the  depths  of  air, 

Comes  a still  voice.” 


30 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


For  those  having  such  natures,  it  will  take  a long  time,  if 
it  is  ever  done,  to  become  fully  reconciled  to  this  close  con- 
finement of  shipboard  existence. 

As  soon  as  we  were  anchored,  numerous  small  boats  came 
hurrying  off  from  the  shore  with  washerwomen,  and  other 
persons  desirous  of  our  patronage  and  of  supplying  us  with 
the  many  comforts  which  sea-worn  people  are  apt  to  require. 
The  most  attractive  articles  to  us  were  those  oranges,  pine- 
apples, bananas,  cocoanuts,  and  other  fruits  peculiar  to  a trop- 
ical clime.  Those  of  us  who  were  so  fortunate  as  to  have 
some  of  the  rhino,  rapidly  invested  it  in  that  inviting  stock. 
We  tasted  tropical  fruits  for  once.  Most  of  the  crew  have  a 
good  supply  of  “stamps,”  but  those  are  almost  worthless  here. 
Many  times  have  I seen  a silver  dollar  refused  to  be  given 
for  a five  dollar  greenback. 

As  I sit  here  engaged  in  writing,  the  soul-stirring  strains 
of  the  “ Star  Spangled  Banner”  are  wafted  to  my  ears 
through  the  open  port,  from  the  French  “Liner’s”  band  played 
out  of  compliment  to  us.  The  air  has  ever  been  a favorite 
one  of  mine,  but  doubly  dear  and  impressive  does  it  now 
seem  to  me,  as  I hear  it  in  a foreign  Jand,  from  foreign 
sources.  Near  me  one  is  accompanying  the  air,  with  the 
words,  and  more  deep,  more  heartfelt  than  ever  before  is  the 
wish  now  uppermost  in  my  mind  ttiat  ever 

“ The  Star  Spangled  Banner  in  triumph  may  wave, 

O’er  the  land  of  the  free,  and  the  home  of  the  brave.” 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


31 


LETTER  IV. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  St.  Peirre,  Martinique, '} 

April  2,  1865.  j" 

My  Dear  R. : 

My  last  letter  to  you,  left  us  anchored  at  Fort  de  France, 
after  an  eleven  days’  passage  from  Boston.  The  two  days 
succeeding  our  arrival  were  employed  by  the  crew  in  clean- 
ing up  the  ship  and  “ putting  oil  her  harbor  dress,”  so  that 
she  was  in  proper  trim  to  receive  the  numerous  visitors  who 
came  Sunday  afternoon. 

The  French  are  the  ruling  race  here.  Beside  them  there 
are  a few  English  merchants,  and  also  a few  Americans, 
but  the  great  mass  of  the  inhabitants  are  negroes.  In  every 
respect  these  are  an  exact  counterpart  of  those  in  our  own 
country.  As  you  have  doubtless  become  fully  acquainted 
during  the  war  with  the  characteristics  of  the  negro,  and  the 
many  phases  of  slavery,  I will  not  weary  you  by  a lengthy 
account  of  them  as  seen  here. 

Tuesday,  March  21st,  we  hauled  alongside  the  coal-wharf, 
and  in  the  afternoon  commenced  “ coaling  ship.”  We  began 
at  two  o’clock,  and  in  less  than  four  hours  the  bunkers  were 
all  filled,  more  than  two  hundred  tons  having  been  taken  in. 
The  celerity  with  which  this  coaling  was  performed,  excelled 
that  of  any  which  I ever  saw  or  heard  of  where  manual 
labor  alone  was  employed.  To  me  it  presented  an  exceed- 
ingly novel  and  interesting  spectacle.  The  forward  and  after 
pivot  ports  were  both  let  down,  and  planks  thrown  out  from 
them  to  the  wharf.  The  workmen , were  almost  exclusively 
women , and  they  carried  the  coal  in  little  shallow  baskets, 
(each  holding  about  three  pecks,)  upon  their  heads.  Once 


32 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


having  commenced,  they  kept  up  a continuous  stream—  com- 
ing in  through  the  for’ard  port  with  the  full  baskets,  and  pass- 
ing out  through  the  after  port  with  the  empty  baskets.  One 
out  of  every  twenty  of  the  baskets  was  weighed,  and  record 
of  the  number  carried  in,  was  kept  by  an  apparatus  somewhat 
resembling  the  smaller  size  of  Fairbank’s  platform  scales, 
which  made  a mark  every  time  the  platform  was  stepped 
upon.  I watched  the  human  stream  passing  in  and  out,  dur- 
ing the  entire  time  that  it  was  engaged  in  coaling,  without 
tiring,  and,  although  “ coaling  ship  ” is  ever  an  unpleasant, 
dirty  time,  I could’nt  help  feeling  a little  regretful  that  it  was 
so  soon  finished.  The  ship  was  “ washed  down,”  and  we  re- 
turned to  our  old  anchorage  that  same  night. 

An  altercation  just  now  between  the  purser’s  steward  and 
some  berth-deck  cooks,  determines  me  to  say  a few  words 
about  government  rations.  One  and  a (quarter  pounds  of  fresh 
or  salt  beef,  or  three- fourths  of  a pound  of  pork,  twenty-two 
ounces  of  soft  bread  or  flour,  or  sixteen  ounces  of  hard  bread  to 
each  man  ; eight  quarts  of  beans,  or  ten  pounds  of  rice,  eight 
pounds  of  roasted  coffee  or  a pound  and  one-half  of  tea,  and 
fifteen  pounds  of  sugar  to  one  hundred  men  is  the  daily  al- 
lowance. In  addition  to  this  there  is  an  allowance  of  six 
pounds  of  butter  to  one  hundred  men  twice  a week,  and  salt, 
vinegar,  pickles,  and  molasses,  almost  as  much  as  desired. 
The  only  articles  the  government  furnishes  us  for  breakfast 
and  supper,  are  hard  bread  and  coffee,  or  tea.  Mondays, 
Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays,  we  have  pork  and  beans  for 
dinner.  The  pork  that  we  have  had  thus  far,  if  not  “ still- 
fed  pork,”  bears  a striking  resemblance  to  it,  and  decidedly 
is  not  fit  to  be -eaten.  The  beans  are  boiled  with  the  pork, 
thus  making  a soup.  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  we  have  for 
dinner  “ salt  horse  and  duff.”  The  latter  is  a sailor’s  plum 
pudding  with  musty  dried  apples  for  the  plums.  Yet  if  it 
’is  well  made,  and  one  is  hungry,  the  “ duff”  is  quite  palata- 
ble. To  get  some  idea  of  the  “ salt  horse,”  take  a piece  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


33 


sole  leather  thoroughly  impregnated  with  salt-petre,  and  chew 
it.  It  may  seem  almost  incredible  to  you,  nevertheless  it  is 
true,  that  nearly  all  the  salt  beef  we  as  yet  have  received, 
has  been  nearly  as  tough,  tasteless,  and  devoid  of  nutriment 
as  the  piece  of  sole  leather  with  which  it  has  been  compared. 
Thursdays,  we  have  canned  meat  and  dessicated  potatoes. 
Very  few  like  the  beef,  and  I must  confess  that  sometimes  I 
have  had  serious  doubts  of  its  being  beef.  The  potatoes  bear 
a close  resemblance  to  sawdust,  before  they  are  cooked,  nor 
does  the  resemblance  cease  with  the  cooking,  for  then  they 
have  scarcely  any  more  taste  and  nutriment  than  the  saw- 
dust would  have.  I have  seen  dessicated  potatoes  that  were 
good,  but  I am  convinced  that  those  furnished  us  are  but  the 
refuse  of  starch  factories.  Sundays,  we  have  canned  beef 
and  rice.  The  rice  is  boiled  in  water  with  a little  salt  thrown 
in,  and  eaten  with  molasses ; we  find  it  quite  palatable,  es- 
pecially when  half-starved,  as  we  usually  are  on  Sundays. 
The  hard  bread  resembles  soda  biscuit  in  outward  appear- 
ance, but  there  the  resemblance  ceases,  for  it  is  made  simply 
of  flour  and  water,  and,  as  the  name  implies,  is  very  hard 
Not  only  this,  but  the  bread  we  have  is  very  old,  musty,  and 
fairly  alive  with  weevil.  Of  the  coffee,  tea,  butter,  and  other 
articles,  I will  not  attempt  any  description,  and  will  only  say. 
that  not  a single  article  do  we  have  served  out  to  us  that  I 
would  not  be  ashamed  to  off$r  the  meanest  beggar  at  home. 

I have  not  told  you  all  this  about  our  rations  to  weary  you 
with  unhappy  complaints ; but  to  deal  justly  by  you,  and  to 
present  you  in  my  letters,  not  only  with  the  scenes  before  my 
eyes,  but  also  with  the  spirit  which  looked  out  upon  them, 
and  to  show,  I hope,  for  the  good  of  those  who  come  after 
me,  how  many  gratuitous  annoyances  are  added  to  those  nec- 
essarily incident  to  a Naval  life.  The  government  pays 
enough  for  these  articles  of  food  to  have  those  of  the  very 
best  quality,  and  so  I suppose  it  thinks  that  they  are.  The 
contractors  are  the  ones  that  in  the  main  are  blamable  for  the 
3 


34 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


unwholsome,  unpalatable  food  that  we  receive — men  of  such 
small  despicable  souls,  that  for  the  sake  of  adding  a little  more 
to  their  wealth,  do  not  hesitate  to  bring  years  of  discomfort 
and  suffering  upon  thousands  of  those  very  ones  who  are  de- 
voting their  lives  to  protect  them  and  their  ill-gotten  wealth. 
For  such  persons  there  could  be  devised  no  punishment  too 
severe ?,  or  but  what  they  would  richly  deserve.  The  govern- 
ment and  especially  the  heads  of  the  Navy  Department  are 
by  no  means  entirely  freed  from  blame,  because  they  pro- 
vide means  enough  to  procure  good,  wholesome  food ; it  is  their 
duty  to  see  that  that  food  is  procured.  By  so  doing  they 
would  have  more  efficient,  better  contented  seamen,  and  this, 
too,  without  any  extra  expense. 

One  day  as  I was  on  duty  shortly  after  our  arrival  at  Fort 
de  France,  Mr.  Philip  came  aft  and  speaking  to  several 
“ messenger  boys  ” that  were  standing  there,  said,  “ Boys,  I 
presume  you  all  wish  to  go  on  shore.  Now  you  may  go  just 
as  soon  as  you  are  able  to  ‘ box  the  compass.’  ” 

Of  course  I was  longing  to  go  on  shore,  too,  so  after  a 
moment’s  hesitation,  I went  up  to  him  and  said,  “ Mr.  Philip, 
will  you  rank  me  with  the  ‘ boys  ’ in  this  promise  ?” 

To  this  request  he  smilingly  replied,  “yes,  Orderly,  I 
will.” 

“ Well  then,”  I said,  “I  will  do  it  now,”  and  thereupon  I 
began  and  going  around  both  ways,  “ boxed  the  compass  ” to 
his  satisfaction.  So  much  for  having  studied  Trigonometry 
before  “ going  to  sea.” 

When  I had  finished  he  said,  “ Well,  you  may  go  ashore 
as  soon  as  your  duty  will  suffer  you.” 

One  beautiful  afternoon,  a day  or  two  after  this  occurrence, 
accompanied  by  two  or  three  friends,  I sat  out  for  the  shore 
upon  my  promised  liberty. 

A pull  of  about  five  minutes  brought  us  to  the  little  pier 
at  the  foot  of  the  park  near  the  middle  of  the  town,  and  then, 
leaping  from  the  boat,  I,  for  the  first  time  placed  my  loot  on 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


35 


foreign  soil.  All  the  others  in  the  party  had  been  in  many 
foreign  countries,  and  were  not  a little  amused  at  my  enthu- 
siasm. One  remarked,  “ you  will  delight  more  to  place  your 
foot  on  the  shore  of  your  own  country,  after  you  have  been 
absent  two  or  three  years,  than  you  now  are  to  place  it  on 
those  of  a foreign  country.”  Doubtless  this  may  be  true, 
but  even  supposing  that  it  may  be  so,  I cannot  on  that  ac- 
count, see  any  reason  why  I should  not  take  as  much  pleas- 
ure as  possible  in  what  I now  have.  The  desire  for  this  priv- 
ilege has  been  strong  with  me  from  my  earliest  recollections, 
and  now  I have  hopes  of  its  being  gratified. 

Several  negroes  were  lounging  about  the  pier,  and  under 
the  trees  of  the  park,  and  those  were  the  specimens  of  hu- 
manity to  whom  we  were  first  introduced.  As  we  landed,  off 
went  the  hats  of  more  than  a dozen  of  them,  and  every  mark 
of  politeness  and  courtesy  in  their  power  was  shown  us  as 
they  came  forward,  either  soliciting  alms,  or  offering  their 
services  as  guides,  each  one  urging  that  one’s  respective 
merits  or  needs.  To  some  of  the  most  wretched  looking  we 
gave  a few  coppers,  but  soon  were  forced  to  desist  from  all 
such  intended  acts  of  humanity,  as  we  found  that  we  only  in- 
creased the  number  of  the  needy  and  suffering.  The  impor- 
tunities of  the  applicants  for  the  position  of  “ guide,”  were 
at  length  quieted  by  the  selection  of  one  of  the  most  intelli- 
gent appearing  of  the  number.  The  park  we  found  shorn 
of  many  of  its  apparent  beauties  as  viewed  from  the  ship — 
being  but  a barren  common,  unfenced,  and  whose  only  at- 
tractions were  a few  locust  trees,  and  a fine  monument  near 
its  center,  erected  to  the  memory  of  Josephine. 

Now  for  a look  at  the  streets — queer  streets  you  would  call 
them,  who  have  walked  on  brick  side  walks,  with  broad  car- 
riage ways  intervening.  They  are  for  the  most  part  mere 
alley-ways,  and,  except  when  there  are  shops  or  stores,  alleys 
between  drear  walls,  with  here  and  there  gateways  and  doors 
opening  into  the  grounds  and  houses  behind  the  walls.  The 


36 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


pavement  is  composed  of  small  stones,  in  many  places  set  in 
regular  figures,  squares,  diamonds,  etc.,  and  sometimes  lined 
off  by  white  stones.  It  looks  very  prettily,  and  the  streets 
are  very  neat  and  clean,  for,  being  inclined  planes,  they  are 
thoroughly  washed  by  every  rain,  and  besides,  through  most 
of  them  a stream  of  water  is  constantly  flowing. 

The  houses  are  for  the  most  part  very  small,  kept  scrupu- 
lously neat  and  clean,  and  in  general  whitewashed  on  the  out- 
side. But  besides  these,  there  are  many  fine  looking  man- 
sions, situated  in  fine,  deep  yards, j filled  with  flower-beds,  and 
groves  of  trees  peculiar  to  a tropical  clime.  The  better  class 
of  stores  are  tended  by  fair  French  dames,  but  those  are  few 
in  number,  being  by  far  outnumbered  by  the  small,  insignifi- 
cant shops,  kept  by  some  aged  or  decrepit  negress.  At  al- 
most every  turn  of  the  street  we  encountered  venders  of 
cakes,  fruits,  etc.,  either  having  their  wares  exposed  for  sale 
on  tables  and  stands  by  the  sides  of  the  streets,  or  carried  in 
baskets  on  their  heads.  At  the  back  of  the  town  is  a fine, 
large,  granite  reservoir,  from  which  the  town  is  supplied 
with  water.  A visit  to  the  cottage  in  which  Josephine  was 
born  completed  the  list  of  “sights”  to  be  seen  at  Fort  de 
France.  Everything  there  we  found  to  be  plain  and  unas- 
suming, with  no  special  attraction  excepting  the  fine  portrait 
of  Josephine,  taken  in  her  youth,  and  which  hung  against  the 
wall  in  one  of  the  rooms. 

Whilst  lying  at  Fort  de  France,  the  “ Guard  ” had  their 
first  introduction  to  “quarter-deck  guard.”  Would  you  know 
who  or  what  that  might  be  ? It  is  simply  to  stand  on  the 
quarter-deck  from  morning  until  night,  dressed  in  full  uni- 
form, cross-belted,  and  with  muskets  at  hand  ready  to  be  pa- 
raded at  a moment’s  notice,  for  any  person  of  distinction  that 
may  choose  to  come  on  board.  I know  that  it  presents  a fine, 
showy  appearance,  this  parading  in  our  gay,  showy  uniform 
coats  and  hats,  white  pants  and  belts,  and  with  everything 
bright  and  shining;  but  if  those  who  delight  in  such  perform- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


37 


ances  could  be  obliged  to  stand  for  a few  hours,  thus  coated 
and  belted,  in  the  hot  sun,  I am  sure  that  they  would  be  less 
zealous  for  such  empty  displays.  An  animated  running 
commentary  was  kept  up  during  the  day. 

“ I wonder  what  we  are  kept  up  here  for,  like  so  many 
fancifully  dressed  monkeys,”  says  one. 

“ To  show  what  they  can  do,  and  that  the  Americans  can 
be  as  foolish  and  silly  as  either  the  French  or  English,”  an- 
swer three  or  four. 

“ Well,  I wish  that  whoever  is  the  cause  of  our  being  here, 
had  to  stand  with  us  in  this  hot,  broiling  sun,”  says  the  first 
speaker. 

“ If  I had  only  thought  that  we  would  be  obliged  to  use 
this  monkey  rig,  I would  certainly  have  thrown  mine  over- 
board before  we  came  in  here,”  says  another. 

“ I wish  that  it  was  time  to  go  on  post,”  says  a third,  and 
all  echo  the  wish.  Yes,  we  all  used  to  feel  relieved  when 
the  time  came  for  us  to  go  on  guard,  for  then  we  might  get 
some  shelter  from  the  melting  rays  of  the  sun. 

Now  don’t  think  that  in  speaking  of  all  this  I am  finding 
fault  with  our  officers,  for  I am  not.  Why  ! did  they  desire 
it  ever  so  much,  they  are  powerless  to  demolish  such  great 
mountains  of  ancestral  humbuggery  as  these,  so  strongly  are 
all  nations  bound  by,  and  so  completely  under  the  sway  of, 
“ ola  custom.”  During  our  stay  at  Fort  de  France,  a French 
frigate  and  an  English  line-of-battle  ship  came  into  port,  and 
for  three  or  four  days  we  were  kept  on  the  quarter-deck  all 
of  the  time  in  readiness  to  honor  their  officers  whenever  they 
might  choose  to  come  on  board.  During  the  day  I would 
wish  that  these  vessels  had  not  come  in,  but  when  evening 
came  and  we,  after  being  dismissed,  had  had  our  supper,  and 
had  gone  up  upon  the  forecas  e for  our  evening  chat  and 
smoke,  then  these  ships’  bands,  would  cheer  and  enliven  us 
with  some  good  old  home  air,  or  those  of  their  own  country ; 
and,  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  present,  we  would  forget  the 


38 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


annoyances  of  the  past.  O,  Music ! what  better  tribute  can 
I give  thee  than  that  thou  ever  callest  to  mind  the  sweetest 
pleasures  of  life,  and  ever  awaken’st  in  my  heart  purer  and 
nobler  thoughts  ? 

Wednesday,  March  29th,  we  intended  coming  up  here, 
and  with  this  intention,  at  4 p.  m.  we  got  up  steam,  weighed 
anchor,  and  started  in  high  style.  But  in  striving  to  excel 
ourselves,  our  grand  sweep  brought  us  out  of  the  deep  water 
of  the  harbor,  and  soon  we  found  ourselves  hard  aground  on 
a ledge  of  rocks  close  under  ^the  fort.  Boats  from  the 
French  and  English  vessels  were  immediately  dispatched  to 
our  assistance ; hawsers  were  passed  from  us  to  these  vessels, 
but  all  our  united  efforts  were  ineffectual  to  haul  us  off. 
After  an  hour  or  more  spent  thus,  Captain  Townsend,  turn- 
ing to  Mr.  Philip,  said  in  his  calm,  quiet  way,  “ It  is  evident 
that  we  are  aground  and  unable  to  get  off  at  present.  I 
think  that  you  had  better  give  the  men  their  hammocks  and 
we  will  see  what  can  be  done  in  the  morning.”  Fortunately 
it  was  low  tide  when  we  ran  aground,  and  in  the  morning  at 
high  tide  we  were  easily  hauled  off.  The  next  day  a couple 
of  divers  from  the  French  frigate  came  and  thoroughly  ex- 
amined the  bottom  of  our  vessel,  rejoicing  us  by  the  report 
that  no  damage  had  been  done  with  the  exception  of  tearing 
off  a part  of  a sheet  of  copper.  This  they  repaired  the  fol- 
lowing day. 

With  everything  as  good  as  it  was  before  we  ran  aground, 
yesterday  we  got  under  way  and  the  second  time  started  for 
St.  Pierre.  Without  any  accident  we  arrived  here,  a distance 
of.  twelve  miles,  in  less  than  an  hour. 

The  harbor  of  St.  Pierre  is  an  open  roadstead,  affording 
no  protection  against  the  storms  which  are  frequent  in  these 
latitudes,  and  consequently  has  scarcely  any  shipping. 
Fort  de  France  is  the  seaport  of  the  island,  but  St.  Pierre  is 
by  far  the  largest  town,  and  is  the  capital.  It  is  very  prettily 
situated  on  both  sides  of  a small  ridge  which  extends  back 


AND  A VOYAGtE  THITHER. 


39 


from  the  sea.  A large  portion  of  the  houses  are  elegant 
mansions,  situated  in  beautiful  and  extensive  grounds — the 
abodes  of  the  foreign  residents,  the  Consuls,  and  the  wealthy. 
The  streets  are  narrow,  but  the  same  order  and  neatness  pre- 
vail here  as  at  Fort  de  France.  I was  on  shore  yesterday 
evening,  but  saw  nothing  worthy  of  special  note  more  than 
what  I have  already  mentioned. 

Some  time  during  the  night  the  U.  S.  S.  Connecticut  came 
into  port,  and  is  now  lying  near  us.  Dame  Rumor  told  us 
to-day  that  one  or  more  piratical  vessels  were  cruising  about 
these  islands,  and  that  the  Wachusett  with  the  Connecticut 
were  to  cruise  about  for  them.  Another  story  that  the  Dame 
told  us  is  in  the  opinion  of  all  more  probable.  We  have  a 
roving  commission  for  one  year,  to  cruise  after  piratical  ves- 
sels, more  especially  in  the  East  India  waters,  and  at  the  ex- 
piration of  the  year,  are  to  report  at  Macao,  China. 

Yesterday  terminated  our  first  month  on  board  the  Wa- 
ohusett,-  and  all  seem  to  acknowledge  that  it  has  been  fraught 
with  more  pleasure  and  interest  than  was  anticipated.  It 
truly  has  been  a good  commencement  to  the  cruise,  and  if  it 
prove  typical  of  the  whole,  I,  for  one,  shall  be  satisfied. 


40 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  V. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Porto  Grande,  Cape  Verdes,) 

April  29,  1865.  j 

My  Dear  R. : 

On  the  4th  of  April  we  sailed  from  St.  Pierre,  bound  for 
some  point  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  The  first  few  days  out 
were  very  unpleasant — the  wind  blowing  strongly  from  the 
northwest,  the  sea  running  very  high,  and  all  accompanied 
by  frequent  showers  of  rain.  The  sixth  day  out,  it  cleared 
off*,  and  during  the  remainder  of  the  passage  we  had  delight- 
ful weather  and  everything  as  pleasant  and  favorable  as  we 
could  reasonably  expect  or  even  desire.  We  were  under  sail 
alone  during  the  greater  portion  of  the  passage,  and  had 
such  good  breezes  that  we  logged  on  an  average  more  than 
six  knots  per  hour,  and  arrived  here  this  morning,  having 
made  the  passage  in  twenty-five  days. 

The  first  incident  of  interest  during  the  passage  was  “ gen- 
eral-quarters.” At  these  we  were  exercised  the  same  as  if 
we  were  in  action — calling  away  boarders,  repelling  board- 
ers, fishing  and  securing  masts  that  had  been  shot  away,  se- 
curing rigging,  putting  out  fires,  working  the  battery,  and 
acting  out  everything  that  might  be  necessary  ^o  be  done  in 
an  actual  engagement.  Considering  that  this  was  the  first 
time  that  the  most  of  the  crew  had  witnessed  anything  of 
the  kind,  they  did  very  well.  The  Captain  and  Mr.  Philip 
both  warmly  commended  us  for  our  creditable  performance. 

The  second  noticeable  incident  of  the  passage  was  present- 
ed in  our  scrubbing  hammocks  for  the  first  time.  As  yet  I 
have  had  no  duty  assigned  me  since  on  board  the  Wachusett 
which  I dislike  more  heartily  than  I do  this  scrubbing  ham- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


41 


mocks.  Shall  I give  you  some  insight  into  the  performance  ? 
Well,  unsling  your  dirty  hammock,  (that  is,  take  out  the  bed- 
ding and  remove  the  clews,)  and  with  the  rest  of  the  crew 
spread  it  down  upon  the  deck.  A good  stiff  brush,  a bucket 
of  water,  and  a piece  of  soap,  are  essential  requisites.  Roll- 
ing up  one’s  sleeves  and  pants,  (of  course  you  are  barefoot,) 
are  not  only  indications  that  one  is  in  earnest  in  one’s  work, 
but  also  that  there  is  a desire  of  keeping  the  clothes  clean, 
which  otherwise  cannot  be  done.  But  we  had  everything 
prepared  to  commence  operations.  After  wetting  the  ham- 
mock, soap  it  over  thoroughly,  and  then,  down  on  your  hands 
and  knees,  take  the  brush  and  scrub  away  with  all  your 
might  and  main  for  half-an-hour  or  more.  I can  promise 
that  you  will  find  it  about  as  tiresome  a task  as  you  have 
ever  undertaken.  I scrubbed  upon  my  hammock  for  more 
than  an  hour,  and  then  stopped,  not  because  I had  got  it  as 
clean  as  desired,  but  that  I was  completely  exhausted. — 
When  I was  ready  to  hang  it  up,  the  only  vacant  space  was 
close  by  the  newly  tarred  stays,  so  that  when  it  was  taken 
down  it  was  nearly  as  clean  as  when  I commenced  to  scrub. 
Several  were  in  the  same  condition,  and  when  hammocks 
were  presented  for  inspection,  the  order  was,  “ Scrub  them 
over.”  In  washing  clothes  nearly  the  same  process  is  gone 
through  with  as  in  the  scrubbing  of  the  hammocks,  and  like 
them  the  clothes  are  hung  up  on  lines  extending  from  one 
mast  to  another,  or  between  different  parts  of  the  “ standing 
rigging.”  There  are  four  “ wash-mornings  ” in  a week  at 
sea,  and  two  in  port,  when  the  washing  must  be  done. 

As  we  are  now  fairly  settled  down  into  the  regular  routine 
of  “ man-of-war  life,”  I will  give  you  the  divisional  routine 
for  exercising.  Mondays,  general  quarters*  Tuesdays,  1st 
Division  exercise  with  the  battery,  2d  Division  and  marines 
with  small  arms,  and  3d  Division  with  single-sticks.  Wed- 
nesdays, 2d  Division  and  marines  exercise  with  the  battery, 
3d  Division  with  small  arms,  and  1st  Division  with  single- 
3* 


42 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


sticks.  Thursdays,  3d  Division  exercises  with  the  battery, 
1st  Division  and  marines  with  small  arms,  and  2d  Division 
with  single-sticks.  Fridays,  battalion  drill  with  small  arms 
and  fire-quarters,  or,  if  it  is  in  port,  man  and  arm  all  boats. 
Saturdays,  cleaning,  and  Sundays,  inspection  and  rest.  Oc- 
casionally the  Powder  Division  and  the  Engineer’s  Division 
exercise  with  the  battery  or  small  arms. 

Now,  perhaps  our  “daily  routine”  would  interest  you. 
At  daylight  in  port,  or  at  seven-/ o’clock  at  sea,  “ all  hands  ” 
are  called.  Only  five  minutes  are  allowed  for  dressing,  lash- 
ing hammocks,  and  stowing  them  in  the  “ nettings.”  If  more 
time  is  taken,  scraping  shot  or  some  similar  punishment  is 
inflicted.  The  first  business  of  the  morning  is  to  “ wash  the 
decks  down”  and  clean  up  generally.  Go  to  breakfast  at  8 
a.  m.  After  breakfast  clean  the  bright-work  and  go  to 
quarters  at  9 a.  m.,  when  the  battery,  men,  and  arms  are  in- 
spected. After  quarters  the  divisions  have  their  exercises 
for  the  day,  and  which  occupy  the  greater  portion  of  the  fore- 
noon. Go  to  dinner  at  noon;  “turn  to”  at  1 p.  m.,  and  do 
whatever  work  may  be  required.  Go  to  supper  at  4 p.  m., 
with  the  usual  “ meal  hour”  for  eating  and  smoking.  The 
hammocks  are  “piped  down”  soon  after  sunset,  and  then  the 
crew  are  permitted  to  smoke  and  do  whatever  they  may 
choose  until  9 p.  m.,  when  those  not  on  duty  are  supposed  to 
be  in  their  hammocks  and  to  keep  quiet.  This  is  the  routine 
when  lying  at  anchor,  but  when  at  sea  there  are  some  varia- 
tions. A portion  of  the  crew  are  on  deck  all  of  the  time, 
and  they  perform  the  whole  of  the  work.  Instead  of  nine 
o’clock  they  “ pipe  down”  at  eight. 

All  this  that  I have  spoken  about — scrubbing  hammocks, 
and  daily  routine,  refers  exclusively  to  the  enlisted  men, 
The  several  divisions  of  the  officers  have  each  a large  room 
in  common,  and  each  officer  has  either  a bunk  or  a state- 
room, small  to  be  sure,  but  thus  dispensing  with  all  need  for 
hammocks  as  well  as  the  vexations  attendant  upon  the  pos- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


43 


session  of  them.  At  quarters  one  or  more  officers  are 
attached  to  a division,  who  superintend  the  working  and 
taking  care  of  the  battery,  etc.,  themselves  under  the  general 
superintendence  of  the  executive  officer,  who  is  in  turn  under 
the  commands  of  the  Captain.  At  all  times  there  is  an  offi- 
cer on  watch,  called  the  officer  of  the  deck,  who,  during  the 
time  he  has  the  deck  has  full  charge  of  everything  about  the 
ship,  subject  only  to  the  orders  of  the  Captain  or  executive 
officer. 

Last  Thursday  was  devoted  to  a thorough  cleansing  of  the 
ship.  This  was  imperatively  called  for,  as  the  lice  and  other 
vermin  usually  attendant  upon  the  early  part  of  a ship’s 
44  commission,”  instead  of  lessening  in  numbers  seemed  to  be 
alarmingly  on  the  increase.  Every  one’s  clothes  were  in- 
spected, and  those  that  were  found  to  be  infested  with  the 
hostile  vermin,  the  clothes  were  thrown  overboard  and  the 
possessors  “ scrubbed.”  Next,  all  the  hammocks  and  blankets 
were  washed  and  rinsed  in  hot  water  and,  lastly,  the  ship 
was  washed  down  fore  and  aft  with  boiling  hot  water.  Thus 
the  vermin  received  a 44  foretaste  of  that  which  is  to  come.” 
We  have  not  been  troubled  with  any  signs  of  them  since  “ the 
cleaning,”  nor  do  I think  that  we  will  be  troubled  again  this 
cruise. 

During  the  passage  we  both  met  and  passed  many  vessels, 
several  of  which  we  44  spoke.”  ’Tis  very  pleasant  thus  to 
meet  and  converse  with  those  similarly  situated — far  out  in 
the  midst  of  the  ocean,  to  learn  one  another’s  ports  of  depar- 
ture and  destination,  to  exchange  greetings,  to  learn  the  most 
interesting  incidents  of  each  one’s  passage,  and  send  messages 
to  those  we  have  left  behind.  Yes,  ’tis  very  pleasant,  and  a 
pleasure  known  only  to  those  44  who  go  down  to  the  sea  in 
ships  and  do  business  in  the  great  waters.” 

It  has  been  well  expressed  by  a familiar  writer,  that  44  in 
a common  voyage,  if  one  be  asked  what  he  has  met,  he  may 
answer,  4 Waves!  waves  ! waves!”’  since  all  else  that  might 


44 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


attract  or  be  noted — the  many  nameless  associations  upon  the 
ocean — these  must  be  seen  and  felt  to  be  known  : 

“ For  who  can  tell,  save  he  whose  heart  has  tried 
And  danc’d  in  triumph  o’er  the  waters  wild, 

The  exulting  sense — the  pulses  mad’ning  play, 

That  thrills  the  wand’rer  o’er  the  trackless  way  V* 

When  I went  on  deck  at  four  o’clock  this  morning,  to  take 
my  watch,  I ascertained  that  we  had  been  “lying  to”  since 
midnight,  on  account  of  our  proximity  to  the  land.  At  day- 
light we  started  ahead  again,  and  a few  minutes  later  we 
heard  the  welcome  words  “ Land  ho,”  sung  out  from  the 
mast  head.  Soon  we  were  able  to  see  the  land  from  the 
deck,  looking  like  a thick  cloud  just  rising  above  the  horizon. 
Now  get  down  the  map,  my  dear  P.,  and  unless  you  have 
the  whole  world  dotted  and  spotted  geographically  in  your 
eye,  look  out  the  little  islands  of  St.  Antonio  and  St.  Vincent 
in  the  Cape  Verde  group,  on  the  coast  of  Africa  just  a little 
north  of  the  line.  The  first  mentioned  of  these  islands  was 
the  earliest  sighted  by  us,  but  we  did  not  approach  near 
enough  to  examine  it  very  closely — only  saw  that  it  was  very 
high,  mountainous,  and  sterile.  There  is  a volcano  on  the 
eastern  side  which  had  an  eruption  about  six  months  ago, 
and  another  is  daily  expected. 

About  noon  we  rounded  the  southeastern  point  of  St.  Anto- 
nio, and  then  sighted  St.  Vincent,  some  twenty  miles 
distant — our  destination.  This  island  presented  the  same 
physical  characteristics  of  surface  and' soil  as  those  given  of 
St.  Antonio.  We  passed  between  these  two  islands,  and  after 
numerous  alterations  of  our  course,  at  length  we  entered  the 
mouth  of  Porto  Grande  harbor,  and  finally  dropped  anchor 
about  half  a mile  from  the  shore.  The  harbor  here  is  a large 
indentation  of  the  coast,  nearly  semi-circular  in  form  and 
affording  a secure  anchorage.  The  mouth  of  the  harbo^  is 
between  four  and  five  miles  wide,  nearly  three  fourths  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


45 


which  is  occupied  by  a high,  narrow  island,  which  protects 
it  from  the  northwest  winds.  About  midway  from  shore  to 
shore,  just  inside  of  this  island,  is  a large  conical  shaped 
rock,  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  called  “ Bird  rock,” 
from  the  number  of  birds  which  used  to  resort  there  yearly 
to  deposit  their  egg*  and  rear  their  young.  I think  that 
“ Target  rock  ” would  be  an  equally  appropriate  name,  as  it 
has  been  used  as  a target  for  centuries  by  the  men-of-war 
visiting  the  harbor,  and  many  hundred  tons  of  metal  have 
been  hurled  against  it.  A closer  view  Of  the  land  only  con- 
firmed the  first  impressions  of  its  physical  characteristics — 
that  it  is  high,  bold,  and  mountainous.  Upon  the  starboard 
side  in  entering  the  harbor  is  a succession  of  peaks,  whose 
outline  bears  a striking  resemblance  to  the  profile  of  Wash- 
ington, and  is  designated  as  “Washington’s  Head”  on  this 
account.  Possibly  I might  not  have  noticed  the  resemblance 
had  it  not  been  suggested  to  me ; but  then,  it  did  not  require 
a great  stretch  of  the  imagination  to  mark  the  resemblance. 
Experimentally  I asked  a man  standing  near  me,  if  the  out- 
lines of  these  peaks  resembled  the  profile  of  any  one  that 
he  could  think  of,  and  was  almost  immediately  answered 
“ yes,  Washington’s.”  I am  sure  that  the  man  had  never 
heard  of  the  resemblance  being  noticed  before.  Certainly 
I never  saw  a country  so  barren  and  desolate  as  that  of  St. 
Vincent.  Not  the  least  sign  of  vegetation  can  be  seen,  not  even 
the  green  moss  so  commonly  seen  upon  rocks.  The  whole 
vista  is  naught  but  one  barren,  rocky,  brown  waste. 

The  town  of  Porto'  Grande  lies  on  a sandy  strip,  which 
circles  around  the  inner  point  of  the  bight  or  indentation 
which  forms  the  harbor.  It  is  a small,  insignificant  looking 
town,  and  with  one  or  two  exceptions  the  houses  are  all 
small  wooden  huts.  About  midway  up  the  mountain,  behind 
the  town,  is  a small,  dilapidated,  brick  fort,  mounting  two  or 
three  guns,  and  over  which  floats  the  Portuguese  ensign,  St. 
Vincent  belonging  to  the  Portuguese.  The  fort  is  worthless 


46 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


as  a defense  for  the  harbor  or  town,  but  I think  that  it  an- 
swers every  purpose ; in  fact,  I cannot  conceive  why  they 
should  need  any  defense  to  retain  this  barren  island. 

There  are  a few  European  residents  at  Porto  Grande, 
representations  of  almost  every  nationality.  By  fau  the 
greater  portion  of  the  inhabitants  (however  are  African 
negroes,  all  bearing  the  usual  stamp  of  ignorance,  sensuality, 
and  the  more  low  and  debasing  vices  by  which  man  is  liable 
to  be  enslaved.  All  of  the  water  consumed  by  the  inhabit- 
ants has  to  be  brought  here  from  a distance  of  about  fifteen 
miles,  and  sometimes  much  suffering  is  occasioned  by  its 
scarcity,  when  stormy  weather  prevents  their  procuring  a 
supply. 

There  is  but  little  shipping  in  the  harbor  at  present — some 
five  or  six  small  merchantmen,  two  Portuguese  war  schooners, 
with  a few  schooners  and  small  craft  comprising  the  whole. 
I was  pleased  to  see  the  glorious  stars  and  stripes  floating 
from  the  peak  of  one  of  the  larger  vessels — a sight  seen  by 
us  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  the  States,  excepting  on 
the  Connecticut  and  our  own  vessel.  It  hardly  seems  pos- 
sible that  two  or  three  rebel  privateers  could  have  damaged 
our  commerce  as  they  have  done.  Although  a fact  to  be 
lamented,  yet  it  is  a true  one  that  there  are  few  merchant- 
men bold  enough  to  fly  the  stars  and  stripes  away  from  the 
immediate  protection  of  our  navy ; so  that  now  there  is  hardly 
one  to  be  seen  where  before  the  war  there  was  a score.  I 
hope  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  the  glorious  emblem  of 
liberty  can  be  borne  with  safety  and  with  pride  to  the  most 
remote  corners  of  the  earth.  I have  never  doubted  that  that 
day  will  some  time  come,  and  only  hope  that  soon  again  we 
shall  see  our  country  occupying  a higher  and  prouder  posi- 
tion than  it  ever  occupied  before. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


47 


LETTER  VI. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Porto  Praya,  Cape  Verde, 

May  26,  1865. 

My  Dear  R. : 

May,  thus  far,  has  been  an  interesting  and  eventful  month 
to  us;  prominent  among  whose  items  of  interest  are  the  news 
of  the  capture  of  Richmond  and  the  surrender  of  Lee’s  army 
— thus  virtually  ending  the  war — and  the  cowardly  assassina- 
tion of  President  Lincoln.  W e received  the  news  by  a F rench 
mail  steamer,  May  6th,  which  brought  us  English  papers  con- 
taining the  full  particulars.  After  inspection  the  following 
day  the  Captain  called  us  aft  and  read  to  us  the  “ news  from 
home.”  Over  the  first  portion  of  the  news  one  and  all  were 
much  rejoiced,  and  I do  not  think  that  there  was  one  but  that 
was  saddened  by  the  latter.  How  much  there  is  in  those  few 
words  that  were  repeated  so  many  times  that  day,  “The  war 
is  over  and  President  Lincoln  is  dead!”  Yes,  the  war  is 
over  and  the  “ unholy,  wicked  rebellion”  is  now  a thing  of  the 
past.  Such  good  news  yet  seems  almost  incredible,  almost 
too  good  to  be  true.  But  our  source  of  information  was  so 
reliable  that  there  does  not  remain  the  least  doubt  of  the 
truthfulness  of  the  report.  I wish  that  I might  hear  that 
the  report  of  President  Lincoln’s  death  was  a canard , but 
the  news  of  that  as  well  as  the  other  comes  to  us  too  well  au- 
thenticated to  admit  of  doubt.  The  particulars  of  the  assassi- 
nation that  we  received,  as  well  as  those  of  the  plot  to  assas- 
sinate the  most  prominent  men  throughout  the  country,  were 
very  fully  given  to  us,  but  as  you  are  doubtless  better  in- 
formed of  them  than  I am,  I will  not  repeat  them  here.  We 
all  hope  that  all  future  plans  and  attempts  of  this  description 
may  be  frustrated. 


48 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


There  were  traits  in  President  Lincoln’s  character,  and 
points  in  his  administration,  which  many  would  have  changed, 
if  possible,  but  methinks  that  all  good,  loyal  persons  will  up- 
hold me  in  this — that  he  always  had  the  welfare  of  the  coun- 
try at  heart  in  his  every  action,  to  the  best  of  his  ability  doing 
what  he  thought  was  right  and  proper ; and,  by  his  wisdom 
and  firmness  of  command  he  has  brought  this  great  and  ter- 
rible civil  war  to  a successful  termination,  as  well,  and  bet- 
ter perhaps,  than  any  other  one  in  the  country  could  have 
done.  We  could  all  have  desired  that  he  might  have  lived 
to  see  the  country  in  the  garb  of  peace  again,  thriving  and 
prosperous  as  she  was  before  the  war.  Still,  after  all,  per- 
haps it  is  for  the  best  that  he  should  have  been  removed  by 
death,  for  now  henceforth  he  will  be  remembered  with  honor 
and  respect,  if  not  as  a martyr. 

The  day  following  that  upon  which  we  heard  of  his  death, 
the  flag  was  kept  at  half-mast,  and  half-hour  guns  fired  all  day, 
out  of  respect  to  the  memory  of  President  Lincoln.  At 
muster  that  day,  an  order  from  the  Captain,  in  conformity 
with  the  order  from  President  Johnson,  was  read,  that  every 
officer  should  wear  crape  on  his  left  arm  for  a period  of  six 
months. 

While  lying  at  Porto  Grande  we  had  our  first  target- 
practice  with  the  battery.  We  fired  six  rounds  at  that  an- 
cient and  common  target,  “ Bird  Rock,”  from  which  we  were 
distant  about  two  miles.  The  first  three  rounds  fired  were 
with  percussion  shell,  about  half  of  which  struck  the  rock, 
exploding  the  instant  they  struck  it.  For  the  last  two  rounds, 
solid  shot  were  used,  about  two-thirds  of  which  hit  the  rock. 
For  the  first  time,  the  Captain  said  that  the  firing  was  un- 
commonly good,  and  warmly  commended  the  captains  of  the 
guns.  But  the  greater  portion  of  these  had  filled  that  posi- 
tion before,  so  that  in  reality  it  was  not  their  first  practice. 
Still  they  will  be  able  to  do  much  better  when  they  become 
accustomed  to  the  guns. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


49 


I went  ashore  but  once  while  we  were  at  Porto  Grande — 
there  being  nothing  in  the  place  to  tempt  me  to  make  a second 
visit.  The  town  consists  of  about  forty  small,  mean-looking, 
wooden  buildings,  the  greater  portion  of  which  are  situated 
on  one  street,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  beach  and  close  to 
it.  We  did  not  derive  much  pleasure  from  our  ramble 
about  the  town,  for  we  riot  only  saw  nothing  worthy  of  note, 
but  at  every  step  we  would  sink  ancle-deep  in  the  sand* 
Consequently  we  did  not  devote  much  time  to  this  ramble? 
but  spent  the  day  in  walking  along  the  beach  searching  for 
shells,  and  in  playing  billiards  in  the  small,  low-roofed  build- 
ing near  the  landing. 

It  may  seem  but  a trifling  incident  to  you,  but  to  us,  the 
getting  of  six  barrels  of  sugar  was  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing incidents  of  our  stay  at  Porto  Grande.  For  more  than 
two  weeks  previous  we  had  had  none  in  the  ship,  and  had  been 
obliged  to  use  molasses  for  our  coffee.  Coffee  and  tobacco  are 
necessaries  of  a sailor’s  life.  Give  him  those  as  he  wants,  and 
almost  anything  will  be  borne;  but  you  if  interfere  with  these 
necessaries,  either  by  lessening  the  amount  or  by  a deteri- 
oration of  the  article,  you  are  injuring  him  more  than  in 
any  other  way  could  be  done.  To  the  uninitiated  it  is  almost 
like  taking  so  much  nauseous  medicine,  to  drink  a cup  of 
coffee  as  it  is  usually  made  in  the  service ; but,  by  degrees 
they  become  accustomed  to  it,  and  at  last,  think  of  it  £s  one 
of  their  greatest  luxuries. 

We  made  preparations  early  in  the  morning  of  Tuesday, 
May  9th,  for  leaving  Porto  Grande,  but  it  was  late  in  the 
evening  before  we  were  under  way.  The  night  was  clear, 
the  moon  at  its  full,  the  wind  favorable  and  strong,  the  sea 
smooth,  and  the  passage  of  that  night  was  certainly  the  most 
pleasant  we  had  thus  far  had.  Our  course  lay  much  of  the 
time  in  a channel  between  numerous  small  islands,  and  in 
many  places  this  channel  was  quite  narrow  and  circuitous. 
With  a navigator  less  skillful  than  our  sailing-master,  Mr. 


50 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Grove,  and  on  a less  clear  and  pleasant  night,  with  the  attend- 
ing favorable  circumstances,  it  would  have  been  hardly  wise 
to  attempt  to  go  through  there  in  the  night-time.  About  9 a.  m. 
the  next  day,  we  sighted  the  extreme  northern  point  of  St. 
Jago,  our  destination,  and  distant  from  Porto  Grande  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.  Two  hours  later  we  came  very  near 
the  northern  coast  of  the  island,  along  which  and  the  eastern 
'side  we  sailed  some  thirty'  or  forty  miles.  The  land  was 
■hilly  and  broken,  but  not  rocky,  and  looked  as  if  the  soil 
were  quite  fertile.  Just  now  everything  is  sere  and  dry, 
owing  to  the  long-continued  drought.  It  was  a few  minutes 
before  sunset  when  we  entered  the  harbor  of  Porto  Praya 
and  dropped  anchor  about  a mile  from  the  town — near  the 
old  anchorage  of  the  Constitution.  It  was  here  that  she  was 
lying  during  the  war  of  1812-15  when  the  English  sloops-of- 
war  Cyane  and  Levant  appeared  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbor. 
As  she  started  to  go  out  in  pursuit  of  them  the  fort  which 
defends  the  town  fired  upon  her.  She  for  the  time  paid  no 
attention  to  the  firing  of  the  fort,  but  went  out  and  captured 
both  of  the  English  sloops,  and  then  returning,  she  demolished 
the  fortifications. 

The  harbor  here  is  an  open  roadstead,  facing  the  east,  and 
when  the  wind  blows  from  that  direction,  it  is  said  to  afford  a 
very  poor  anchorage.  The  shipping  here  is  less  even  than 
at  Porto  Grande. 

The  town  is  situated  on  a bluff  about  one  hundred  feet 
high,  near  the  innermost  point  of  the  harbor.  It  contains 
some  fine  buildings,  but  on  the  whole  presents  an  ancient,  de- 
caying appearance.  To  the  right  and  front  of  the  town  is  the 
fort,  built  of  stone  and  brick,  and  mounting  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  guns.  Near  the  northern  outskirts  of  the  town  is  a 
wide,  deep  ravine,  filled  with  orange,  banana,  and  cocoanut 
trees,  which  are  now  covered  with  llieir  ripe  fruit.  The  in- 
habitants here,  like  those  at  Porto  Grande,  are  for  the  most 
part  negroes,  with  comparatively  few  Europeans.  The  latter 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


51 


are  principally  Portuguese.  St.  Jago,  with  the  rest  of  the 
Cape  Yerde  group,  belongs  to  Portugal,  and  Porto  Praya  is 
the  capital  of  the  group. 

Have  you  any  idea  that  it  is  a very  difficult  thing  for  us  to 
get  money  ? By  the  rules  of  the  Navy  we  are  not  supposed  to 
receive  any  of  our  wages  until  the  end  of  the  cruise.  How- 
ever, the  advancing  of  money  is  left  to  the  discretion  of  the 
commanding  officer  to  a certain  extent ; but  he  is  restricted 
to  “ special  and  necessary  wants.”  This  rule  applies  only  to 
those  “for’ard  of  the  mast,”  the  officers  drawing  their  full 
pay  every  month.  If  one  of  the  crew  asks  for  money  it 
almost  always  results  like  the  following  application  of  an 
aged  seaman,  which  I heard  this  forenoon : going  up  to  where 
the  Captain  was  standing,  and  doffing  his  cap,  he  said : 

“ Captain,  will  you  be  so  kind  as  to  give  an  order  to  the 
Paymaster  to  let  me  have  a little  of  my  wages  ?” 

The  Captain  replied,  “ Well,  B.,  how  much  do  you  want  ?” 
“ Five  dollars,  sir.” 

“ What  do  you  wish  to  do  with  it  ?” 

“Well,  sir,  I am  getting  to  be  so  old  that  I can’t  eat  the 
government  rations  as  well  as  I could  thirty  years  ago, 
when  I entered  the  Navy,  and  I would  like  a little  money 
with  which  to  get  me  some  * extras.’  ” 

“ Of  course  nothing  but  specie  will  be  of  any  use  to  you. 
Now  every  dollar  in  specie  costs  the  government  more  than 
two  dollars  in  currency,  and  what  is  given  you  can  only  be 
charged  dollar  for  dollar.  The  government  is  deeply  in  debt, 
and  every  means  of  economizing  must  be  employed.  I am 
really  sorry  in  your  case,  but  I can’t  let  you  have  any.” 
Notwithstanding  all  this  reasoning  there  are  over  thirty 
officers  in  the  ship  drawing  on  an  average  more  than  one 
hundred  dollars  each,  in  specie,  every  month,  and  which  is 
so  invested  by  the  greater  portion  of  them,  as  to  more  than 
double  their  pay.  It  does  seem  strange  that  the  government 
should  thus  pet  and  pamper  a few,  who  have  nearly  every- 


52 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


thing  that  could  be  desired,  and  who  undergo  comparatively 
few  hardships  or  fatigues,  while  at  the  same  time  the  small 
sum  of  five  or  six  dollars  of  their  hard-earned  wages  is  de- 
nied to  those  who  make  up  the  “ bone  and  sinew  ” of  the 
Navy.  I do  not  speak  thus  from  any  personal  grievances,  for 
thus  far  I have  had  all  my  requests  for  money  granted  me. 
But  where  there  is  one  thus  fortunate,  there  are  twenty  that 
are  not  so. 

Since  we  have  been  lying  here  we  have  had  “ fresh  pro- 
visions ” for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Boston.  The  cook 
of  each  mess  receives  a piece  of  meat — varying  in  size  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  men  in  his  mess — which  he  tallies 
and  puts  in  the  “ coppers.”  Some  rice,  potatoes,  cabbage,  and 
other  vegetables,  are  then  sparingly  added,  and  the  whole 
boiled  together.  At  dinner  time  each  cook  draws  his  own 
piece  of  meat,  and  also  a certain  portion  of  the  soup.  The 
meat,  from  being  boiled  so  long  and  in  a large  quantity  of 
water,  becomes  nearly  tasteless,  but  the  soup  is  excellent. 
The  Purser’s  steward  tells  me  that  fresh  provisions  are  far 
less  expensive  to  the  government  than  salt  ones  are.  They 
certainly  give  better  satisfaction  to  the  crew,  and  I don’t  see 
any  reason  why  we  should  not  receive  them  altogether  when- 
ever we  are  in  port.  But  I suppose  that  it  is  in  this  as  in 
almost  everything  else  connected  with  the  service,  however 
much  it  may  be  better  for  the  government  and  for  the  men, 
if  those  to  whom  such  matters  are  left  are  put  to  any  trouble 
or  inconvenience  by  any  act,  that  act  is  seldom  performed. 

The  day  that  I was  intending  to  go  on  shore  for  a visit  to 
the  old  town  of  Porto  Praya — which  is  situated  about  five 
miles  back  from  the  sea,  the  American  Consul  sent  off  word 
to  the  Captain,  protesting  against  any  more  liberty  to  the 
men  being  given  him.  His  reason  for  so  doing  was  because 
some  of  our  crew,  while  under  the  influence  of  liquor,  had 
made  some  disturbance  among  the  citizens.  This  is  too  often 
the  case — some  poor  worthless  character  taking  away  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


53 


good  name  and  the  privileges  of  a large  number  by  his  mis- 
deeds. 

Some  time  in  the  early  part  of  May  we  had  news  that 
England  had  declared  war  against  the  United  States.  This 
statement  came  so  well  authenticated  that  we  had  scarcely  a 
doubt  of  its  truth.  Knowing  this  you  will  not  be  surprised 
to  learn  that  when  an  English  war-vessel  appeared  off  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor  about  a week  ago,  the  greatest  excite- 
ment prevailed  among  us  ; boats  were  hoisted  up  and  secured, 
steam  got  up,  the  battery  loaded,  and  every  preparation  made 
for  action  at  a moment’s  notice.  But  with  no  apparent  hos- 
tile intent  the  vessel  came  in  and  quietly  dropped  anchor 
near  us.  A boat  was  sent  to  her,  which  brought  the  report 
that  it  was  the  English  corvette  Zephyr  from  Cape  Town, 
South  Africa,  and  “ homeward  bound.”  Her  latest  advices 
from  home  made  no  mention  of  there  being  any  hostility  be- 
tween England  and  the  United  States,  nor  of  the  prospect  of 
there  being  any  war.  We  have  since  had  many  a good 
laugh  with  their  crew  over  our  “ false  alarm.” 

Ever  since  we  have  been  lying  here  we  have  had  a great 
number  of  visitors  from  shore,  of  almost  every  age  and  na- 
tionality, and  of  both  sexes.  With  one  of  the  fair  visitants, 
a young  lady  of  about  eighteen,  a large  number  of  our  offi- 
cers and  crew  have  become  quite  deeply  smitten , and  in  one 
case,  a more  serious  affair  than  love  is  rumored.  u Breach 
of  promise”  and  “ twenty  paces ” are  the  common  reports, 
but  however  true  the  former  may  be,  I have  my  doubts  of 
the  latter,  on  account  of  the  timidity  of  one  of  the  parties. 
I must  confess  that  she  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  lovable 
of  the  female  persuasion  that  I ever  saw — almost  perfect  in 
form  and  feature.  She  has  a more  speaking  eye,  and  a more 
sweet,  winning  expression  than  the  generality  of  womankind 
possess.  Now  you  must  not  think  that  I am  smitten  at  last 
by  female  charms  because  I am  thus  enthusiastic  in  my  ac- 
count of  this  particular  fair  one.  I trust  that  I can  see  and 


54 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


appreciate  true  beauty  and  loveliness  without  getting  spoony 
(to  use  a very  expressive  word)  over  the  possessor.  I was 
not  a little  amused  a few  evenings  ago  at  the  remarks  of  a 
conceited  younger  officer  who  had  had  the  privilege  of  being 
her  escort  and  guide  in  showing  her  the  items  of  interest 
about  the  ship  that  afternoon.  He  said,  “ I was  more  than 
half  seriously  revolving  in  my  mind  the  pros  and  cons  for 
remaining  here  and  winning  her  heart  and  hand.  But  when 
I came  to  sum  them  all  up,  I found  that  the  cons  by  far  out- 
numbered the  pros , so  I have  concluded  that  not  yet  would 
I £ give  up  the  ship.’  ” 

In  relating  a personal  experience,  I express  that  of  sev- 
eral shipmates.  On  board  ship  there  are  many  leisure  mo- 
ments, and  these  we  have  largely  devoted  to  study.  We 
find  that  the  benefits  resulting  therefrom  are  two-fold.  On 
the  one  hand  we  are  increasing  our  store  of  useful  knowl- 
edge, and  on  the  other  we  are  weaving  about  us  one  of  the 
most  effectual*  defenses  against  the  many  temptations  and 
moral  dangers  of  man-of-war  life.  We  are  so  constituted 
that  in  order  to  keep  our  minds  in  some  degree  of  moral  pu- 
rity we  must  be  surrounded  by  correspondingly  pure  influ- 
ences— certainly  by  enough  to  balance  the  bad  and  impure. 
Woman,  whenever  she  is  worthy  to  be  called  by  that  name, 
has  an  influence  to  ennoble  and  purify  the  mind  and  thoughts. 
The  truth  of  the  assertion  may  be  seen  by  comparing  those 
that  have  been  under  this  influence  with  those  that  have  been 
deprived  of  it,  even  if  they  have  been  surrounded  by  other 
minds  noble  and  good.  Probably  in  no  place  in  the  world 
is  this  influence  more  completely  lost  or  needed  more  than 
on  a man-of-war.  As  I said  in  the  first  place,  the  employ- 
ment and  diversion  which  study  gives,  may  do  much  to  coun- 
terbalance the  bad  influences. 

Last  Friday,  May  19  th,  we  made  every  preparation  for 
getting  under  way,  intending  to  take  our  departure  from 
Porto  Praya  that  day.  But  when  we  came  to  heave  up  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


55 


port  anchor,  the  cable  came  in  with  no  anchor  attached  to  it, 
the  cable  having  parted  and  left  the  anchor  at  the  bottom. 
“ So  much  for  intending  to  sail  on  Friday,”  the  superstitious 
“ old  salts  ” said.  All  preparations  and  intentions  of  depar- 
ture were  indefinitely  postponed,  the  cutters  called  away,  and 
searching  for  the  lost  anchor  commenced.  After  two  days 
spent  in  dragging,  two  divers  from  shore  were  employed ; 
but,  after  one  day’s  fruitless  labor,  they  became  discouraged, 
and  would  come  no  more.  Two  of  our  own  crew  next  at- 
tempted to  find  the  anchor  by  diving,  but  they  gave  out  be- 
fore the  first  day  was  over.  Yesterday  we  tried  steaming 
about  the  harbor  with  the  starboard  cable  “ hove  short,”  so 
that  the  anchor  would  just  touch  the  bottom,  hoping  that  it 
would  catch  hold  of  the  missing  one.  But  like  the  others 
this  plan  proved  unsuccessful,  and  the  missing  anchor  is 
missing  still.  This  evening  the  Captain  said  that  it  was  use- 
less to  continue  the  search  longer,  and  that  we  would  leave 
here  to-morrow.  We  all  hope  that  he  may  not  alter  his  de- 
termination, for  we  are  heartily  tired  of  Porto  Praya. 


56 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  VII. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  St.  Catherine, 

June  28,  1865. 

My  Dear  R. : 

Dame  Rumor  was  truthful,  for  the  next  day  saw  us  take 
our  departure  from  Porto  Praya.  We  found  the  sea  to  be 
very  rough,  and  many  of  us  wer ejust  a little  sea  sick.  But 
I remember  one  that  was  not  sick  in  the  least — the  steerage 
cook,  a big,  burly  negro,  “ black  as  the  ace  of  spades,”  and 
who  rejoices  in  the  sobriquet  of  “ Jib  Bogue.”  His  loud 
singing,  and  side-splitting  “haw,  haw”  could  be  heard  as 
usual  while  cooking  the  dinner,  doing  much  to  enliven  the 
spirits  of  all.  He  is  decidedly  the  happiest  man  in  the  ship. 

Friday,  June  2d,  1865,  will  long  be  remembered  by  many 
of  us,  for  that  was  the  day  on  which  we  were  presented  to 
Neptune  the  Monarch  of  the  Deep.  For  this  ceremony, 
preparations  had  been  made  before  leaving  Boston,  but  so 
quietly  had  all  been  conducted,  that  every  one  except  those 
in  the  secret  were  taken  by  surprise.  This  ceremony  is  not 
so  common  as  it  was  formerly,  but,  whenever  the  assent  of 
the  commanding  officer  can  be  obtained,  the  “ old  salts  ” sel- 
dom miss  the  opportunity  of  enjoying  the  sports  of  the  occa- 
sion. The  Captain,  with  characteristic  desire  of  affording 
pleasure  and  amusement  at  all  proper  times,  assented  to  the 
request  of  the  leaders,  but  imposing  reasonable  restrictions 
upon  what  should  be  done. 

At  4 p.  m.,  all  were  startled  by  the  hail  off  our  starboard 
bow,  “ Ship  Ahoy  !” 

The  officer  of  the. deck  (who  was  in  the  secret)  answered, 
“Aye,  aye,  sir.” 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


57 


“ What  ship  is  that  ?” 

“ The  United  States  Steamer  Wachusett.” 

“ Where  are  you  from,  and  where  are  you  bound.” 

“ From  the  United  States,  bound  to  China.” 

“ I am  Neptune,  the  Monarch  of  the  Deep  ; bring  the  ship 
to  so  that  I can  come  on  board.” 

The  orders  of  his  Majesty  were  obeyed,  and  he  came  on 
board — through  the  hawse-pipe,  I suppose  ; for  after  a few 
minutes’  delay,  the  curtain  (which  had  been  hung  up  at  the 
break  of  the  forecastle  ever  since  noon)  was  removed,  and 
there  issued  forth  from  the  forecastle  his  Majesty,  Neptune 
He  was  seated  on  his  chariot  of  state  (the  howitzer  carriage 
fitted  up  for  the  occasion)  with  that  ancient  matron,  Mrs. 
Neptune,  by  his  side,  drawn  by  ten  men,  preceded  by  a band 
of  music,  and  accompanied  by  all  his  attending  train.  On 
either  hand  were  his  two  barbers,  the  one  bearing  a huge  tin 
razor  full  of  notches  and  rust,  and  the  other  a huge  swab. 
Around  him  were  about  thirty  faithful  retainers  armed  with 
swords.  They  marched  down  the  port  gangway — the  band 
playing  “Lo ! the  conquering  hero  comes” — as  far  as  the  ward- 
room hatch,  then  crossed  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  deck, 
and  came  to  a halt  by  the  starboard  gangway.  Formal  per- 
mission having  been  granted  to  his  Majesty  by  the  Captain 
to  have  all  the  novices  among  the  crew  presented  to  him, 
preparations  were  made  for  the  ceremony.  A studding-sail 
was  got  up,  its  corners  raised  and  the  sail  kept  filled  with 
water  by  the  steam  pumps.  Then,  a platform  was  erected 
between  this  and  the  throne. 

Everything  being  in  readiness,  His  Majesty  sent  his  re- 
tainers to  bring  to  him  all  the  novices  (that  is  those  that 
had  never  crossed  the  Line)  and  then  the  ceremony  be- 
gan. The  novice  was  seated  on  the  platform,  blindfolded, 
and  then  well  lathered  over  with  the  swab,  which  had  been 
dipped  in  a preparation  of  tar  and  grease.  The  knight  of 
the  razor  then  performed  his  duty,  utterly  regardless  of  the 
4 


58 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


cries  and  groans  of  his  victims ; and,  whenever  they  would 
open  their  mouths  to  complain,  they  were  treated  to  a cup  of 
salt  water.  This  part  of  the  ceremony  finished,  the  victim  is 
requested  to  rise  a moment,  the  seat  removed,  and  then  when 
told  to  sit  down  again,  barkward  he  tumbles  into  the  vat  of 
water  and  the  hose  is  turned  upon  him.  Sore,  half  sick,  half 
blinded,  and  half  drowned,  after  numerous  fruitless  attempts 
he  at  length  emerges  from  the  vat,  escapes  from  his  torment- 
ors, and  can  console  himself  by  looking  upon  the  other  vic- 
tims undergoing  the  same  treatment.  The  “ shaving”  con- 
tinued for  upwards  of  two  hours,  until  all  were  initiated 
excepting  the  marines  who  resisted,  and  the  officers  who  paid 
the  forfeit  with  wine.  Thanks  were  then  given  by  his 
Majesty  to  the  Captain,  for  his  courtesy  and  kindness ; 
and  after  wishing  the  Wachusett  a pleasant  cruise  and  the 
safe  return  of  all  to  their  homes  and  friends,  he  departed  as 
he  came.  The  whole  affair  passed  off  pleasantly  and  was 
much  enjoyed  by  all.  The  grotesque  costumes,  the  cries, 
groans,  and  appearance  of  the  victims  occasioned  many  a 
side-splitting  peal  of  laughter,  and  “ Neptune’s  visit”  will 
long  be  remembered  by  all. 

Up  to  this  time  our  course  had  been  southwesterly,  the 
wind  westerly,  and  with  all  sail  set  we  had  been  sailing 
along  at  the  average  rate  of  five  or  six  knots  per  hour.  But 
that  day  the  wind  left  us  and  for  three  days  we  lay  on  the 
equator,  becalmed,  under  the  hot,  scorching  rays  of  the  sun. 
Hardly  anything  in  a sailor’s  life  is  more  unpleasant  than  to 
be  becalmed,  the  sails  flapping  idly  against  the  masts,  and  the 
vessel  not  moving  a single  knot  during  an  entire  day.  One 
and  all  seemed  disposed  to  echo  the  boatswain’s  prayer  “Blow, 
Good  Devil,  blow,  and  take  the  lower  studding-sail.” 

June  5th  we  got  up  steam,  and  with  awnings  spread,  we 
were  more  comfortable  and  in  better  spirits.  In  the  evening 
a strong  breeze  sprung  up,  so  that  we  stopped  steaming  and 
proceeded  under  full  sail  again.  For  a week  our  course  was 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


59 


variable,  sailing  “ by  the  wind,”  which  took  us  well  to  the 
westward.  Our  destination  when  we  left  Porto  Praya  was 
said  to  be  Cape  Town.  Everything,  however,  seemed  to  in- 
dicate that  Rio  Janeiro  was  to  be  our  next  port ; and  thither 
we  would  have  thought  that  we  were  destined,  had  we  not 
had  positive  orders  from  the  government,  that  under  no  con- 
sideration whatever,  should  we  call  at  any  Brazilian  port. 
This  order  was  given  on  account  of  the  existing  hostile  feel- 
ing of  the  Brazilian  government  towards  the  Wachusett^ 
which  vessel  seized  the  rebel  steamer  Florida  in  the  harbor 
of  Bahia  about  a year  ago. 

Going  “ by  the  wind  ” in  the  variable,  or  “ horse  latitudes,’’ 
is  far  from  being  pleasant.  Occasionally  we  would  steam  for 
a few  hours,  then  proceed  under  sail  alone,  or  for  days  lie 
becalmed.  At  last  we  received  a steady  breeze,  and  although 
it  was  not  as  favorable  as  could  have  been  desired,  obliging 
us  to  “ tack  ship”  frequently,  we  all  hailed  it  as  a godsend, 
so  much  did  its  coolness  refresh  and  enliven  us. 

Soon  after  crossing  the  Line  there  were  a great  many  ru- 
mors afloat  regarding  the  amount  of  provisions  in  the  ship — 
some  asserting  that  there  was  barely  a sufficiency  to  last  a 
week.  Soon  all  were  startled  by  another  rumor  to  the  effect 
that  we  were  to  be  placed  on  half-rations ; this  caused  the  most 
intense  excitement.  First  the  sugar  gave  out  and  we  were 
obliged  to  substitute  molasses  again  for  our  coffee  and  tea.  A 
day  or  two  later,  and  we  not  only  had  no  sugar  for  our  tea? 
but  had  no  tea  for  the  sugar.  Tuesday,  June  13th,  the  cli- 
max was  reached  when  the  Captain  gave  orders  that  the  crew 
should  be  placed  on  “ half  rations.”  The  greatest  excitement 
then  prevailed,  and,  after  numerous  consultations,  the  crew 
deputed  the  petty  officers  to  represent  them  at  the  “ mast  ’’ 
and  endeavor  to  get  the  order  countermanded.  An  increase 
from  one-half  to  two-thirds  rations  produced  a momentary 
lull.  It  was,  however,  only  momentary,  and  at  noon  nearly 
every  man  in  the  ship,  taking  his  diminished  ration  in  his 


60 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


pan,  went  to  the  “ mast”  and  asked  to  see  the  Captain.  He 
came,  and,  after  listening  to  their  complaints,  he  acceded  to 
their  request  for  full  rations,  but  to  their  request  that  the 
ship  might  be  put  into  some  port  nearest  us,  and  a fresh  sup- 
ply of  provisions  obtained,  he  said  that  he  had  received  posi- 
tive orders  to  call  at  no  Brazilian  port,  and  there  was  no 
other  nearer  than  Cape  Town.  So  we  had  full  rations  again, 
but  full  only  in  name,  not  having  any  sugar,  but  little  molas- 
ses, and  half  rations  of  bread,  pork,  and  beans.  The  officers’ 
messes  were  but  little  better  provided  for  than  those  of  the 
men ; and,  for  a barrel  of  flour  which  our  mess  had,  they 
offered  more  than  five  times  its  original  cost.  When  one  is 
hungry,  money  is  no  equivalent  for  food,  so  the  flour  was  not 
sold.  The  details  of  the  sufferings  from  hunger  during  the 
time  that  we  were  on  half  rations  would  be  but  a repetition 
of  what  too  many  have  endured  during  the  war,  and  with 
which  you  are  doubtless  well  acquainted.  June  16th  we 
boarded  several  vessels,  hoping  to  be  able  to  procure  supplies 
from  them.  We  were  unsuccessful  in  every  case,  their  car- 
goes being  railroad  iron. 

Monday,  June  19th,  “Land  Ho!”  shouted  out  from  the 
mast  head  thrilled  all  with  the  deepest  delight,  for  we 
thought  that  the  Captain  had  finally  decided  to  enter 
some  Brazilian  port.  But  this  pleasure  was  short  lived, 
for  about  noon  we  came  to  anchor  a little  to  the  eastward 
of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Rio  Janeiro.  Our  anchor- 
age was  a little  westward  of  a lofty,  naked  cone,  called 
il  False  Sugar  Loaf,”  in  contradistinction  to  one  very  similar, 
about  eight  miles  to  the  westward  of  it,  which  marks  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Rio.  We  lay  within  two  or  three 
miles  of  the  shore,  surrounded  by  scenery  of  great  splendor 
and  beauty.  At  least,  so  it  seemed  to  us  ; but,  perhaps  our 
discoveries  of  beauties  were  owing  in  a measure  to  the  long 
time  that  it  had  been  since  we  had  seen  the  land.  Nothing, 
I find,  so  much  enhances  the  beauty  and  worth  of  anything, 
or  calls  forth  such  pleasure  from  its  sight  or  possession,  as 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


61 


the  deprivation  of  it  for  a time  when  ardently  longed  for. 
But  to  return  to  the  scenery  near  our  anchorage.  Before  us, 
at  the  distance  of  a few  miles,  was  the  wild  range  of  moun- 
tains immediately  south  of  the  channel  into  Rio,  the  most 
striking  feature  of  which  is  known  to  sailors  by  the  name  of 
“ Hood’s  Nose,”  from  a supposed  strong  resemblance  to  that 
appendage  of  his  lordship’s  face.  “ Indeed,”  it  has  been  re- 
marked, “ the  whole  range  presents  the  outline  of  a colossal 
figure  in  as  near  conformation  to  the  human  shape,  as  the 
effigies  on  many  tombs  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centu- 
ries— lying  on  its  back,  with  its  head  towards  the  sea.” 

On  our  right,  and  very  near,  was  a beautiful  beach  of 
snowy  whiteness,  stretching  in  a long  curve  to  the  east,  be- 
yond the  beach  stretched  a narrow  interval  of  low  land,  - 
covered  with  grass,  backed  by  abrupt  hills  and  mountains,  of 
various  and  beautiful  outline ; the  center  of  the  sweep  rising 
much  above  the  rest,  and  forming  a kind  of  crown  to  all 
around ; the  whole  beautifully  wooded  and  still  in  the  luxu- 
riance of  nature. 

Grand  was  the  view  in  front,  with  a sail  or  two  in  the 
foreground ; on  our  right  stretched  the  white  beach,  green 
hills,  and  mountains  before  described ; while  behind,  and  on 
our  left,  in  the  east,  rolled  the  ocean ; all  forming  such  a 
scene  as  will  for  a long  time  remain  stamped  upon  my  mem- 
ory with  the  most  pleasing  remembrances. 

But  our  object  in  stopping  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbor, 
was  not  to  admire  the  beautiful  scenery ; it  was  to  endeavor  to 
procure  provisions,  from  vessels  bound  either  in  or  out  of  Rio, 
or  to  send  in  word  and  have  the  provisions  brought  out  to  us. 
We  boarded  three  vessels,  but  without  procuring  what  we 
wished — all  of  them  being  loaded  with  coal.  From  one  of 
these  vessels,  the  caterer  of  the  ward-room  mess  bought  a 
barrel  of  flour,  or  what  he  supposed  to  be  flour,  for  which  he 
gave  thirty  dollars  in  gold,  but  having  brought  it  on  board 


62 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


and  opened  it,  the  flour  proved  to  be  oatmeal.  Meantime  the 
vessel  had  entered  the  harbor  and  was  out  of  sight. 

I had  heard  much  said  about  “ the  rolling  grounds  ” at  the 
mouth  of  Rio  harbor,  and  my  experience  in  this  instance 
told  me  that  the  report  had  not  exaggerated.  Certainly  I 
never  saw  a vessel  roll  and  pitch  about  more  wildly  in  a 
storm.  Its  effects  were  plainly  marked  in  the  great  number 
that  were  made  sea-sick. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  intentions  of  the  Captain, 
the  evening  of  that  same  day  saw  us  leave  our  anchorage, 
and  start  for  Montevideo.  We  were  all  much  disappointed 
in  not  going  into  Rio,  and  there  was  scarcely  one  in  the  whole 
crew,  that  would  not  have  been  willing  to  have  fought  our 
-way  in,  if  necessary. 

Our  course  for  Montevideo  was  southerly,  and  for  the  first 
three  or  four  days,  we  sailed  along  finely  with  a favorable  but 
very  light  breeze.  On  the  evening  of  Saturday,  June  24th, 
everything  betokened  the  approach  of  a storm,  and  the 
prospect  of  that  evening  was  verified  in  the  “ pampero,”  or 
hurricane  that  followed.  Early  Sunday  morning  it  began  to 
rain,  pouring  in  torrents,  and  accompanied  by  occasional 
gusts  of  wind.  After  each  lull  in  the  wind,  it  would  com- 
mence to  blow  again  with  increased  fury.  Just  after  dark 
that  evening,  the  wind  hauled  to  about  two  points  abaft  the 
beam,  and  we  then  close-reefed  the  top-sails,  and  took  in  all 
the  remaining  ones  except  the  fore-topmast  stay -sail,  and  the 
main  top-sail.  When  I went  on  deck  at  midnight  to  take  my 
watch,  I found  that  the  barometer  was  falling  rapidly,  and 
the  storm  steadily  increasing,  which  it  continued  to  do,  from 
that  time  until  3 a.:m  . The  wind  was  then  blowing  a regular 
hurricane  and  “ coming  from  all  points  of  the  compass.” 
After  a few  minutes’  lull,  the  storm  with  its  gathered  strength 
burst  upon  us,  sweeping  everything  before  it.  First  the 
main  sheets  parted,  and  in  a few  minutes  the  sail  was  fairly 
torn  into  ribbons.  Next  the  fore-top-sail  gaff  was  carried 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


63 


away,  and  before  the  sail  could  be  brailed  up,  it  liad  several 
large  holes  torn  in  it,  and  a number  were  severely  injured  by 
the  sheets  as  they  flapped  about.  While  they  were  at  work 
in  securing  it,  a noise  like  the  booming  of  a cannon  was 
heard,  and  upon  inquiry,  I learned  that  the  fore-topmast  stay- 
sail had  burst  in  half  a dozen  places.  The  sail  was  soon 
hauled  down  and  secured.  Attention  was  next  paid  to  furl- 
ing the  main-top-sail  which  was  done  without  much  difficul- 
ty, during  a few  minutes’  lull.  But  we  paid  dear  enough 
for  that  lull,  for  the  men  had  barely  laid  in  from  the  yard 
when  the  storm  again  burst  upon  us,  with  greater  fury  than 
ever.  The  fore  top-sail  was  the  only  one  now  left  set,  and 
every  moment  we  expected  to  see  that  carried  away.  Vol- 
unteers were  called  for  to  go  up  and  furl  it.  Five  or  six  were 
found  willing,  but  the'rest  hung  back.  It  seemed  almost  a 
fool-hardy  undertaking,  for  the  topmast  had  been  sprung 
early  in  the  evening,  and  it  swayed  to  and  fro  with  a heavy 
thump,  at  every  roll  of  the  ship.  Beside  all  this  the  cold 
was  so  intense  as  to  benumb  one  and  make  it  extremely  dif- 
ficult to  hold  on.  But  the  sail  was  clewed  up  as  well  as  pos- 
sible, and  then  the  volunteers,  now  increased  to  fourteen, 
went  aloft  to  furl  it.  As  there  was  now  no  sail  on  to  steady 
her,  the  ship  rolled  and  pitched  about  worse  than  ever.  The 
mast  went  from  side  to  side  with  a thump,  that  could  be  dis- 
tinctly heard  on  deck,  above  the  roar  of  the  gale ; the  sail 
was  wet  and  heavy ; the  men  soon  benumbed  with  the  cold, 
and  a full  hour  elapsed  before  the  sail  was  furled.  And  an 
hour  of  the  most  intense  anxiety  it  was  to  us  all ; for  every 
moment  we  expected  to  see  the  mast  carried  away,  or  some 
one  lose  his  grasp  and  go  overboard,  not  daring  to  hope  that 
we  should  see  them  all  safe  on  deck  again.  And  as  they 
came  down  and  unharmed  stood  by  our  side  once  more,  there 
was  a deep  breath  of  relief  drawn,  and  a silent  clasping  of 
hands  which  spoke  more  eloquently  than  words  could  have 
done. 


64 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


The  officer  that  had  the  deck  during  the  mid  watch,  proved 
himself  to  be  decidedly  incapable  of  managing  a ship  during 
a storm,  getting  nervous  and  excited,  giving  wrong  orders, 
and  even  losing  entire  command  of  himself.  For  more  than 
two  hours  we  lay  in  the  trough  of  the  sea,  the  seas  breaking 
over  the  sides,  and  splintering  four  inch  oaken  planks  as  if 
they  had  been  so  much  paper.  Some  of  the  guns  got  adrift 
and  went  from  one  side  to  the  other  with  a thump  that  fairly 
made  the  ship  tremble,  and  for  a time  the  greatest  imaginable 
confusion  prevailed.  About  2 a.m.  Mr.  Philip  came  on  deck, 
all  hands  were  called,  and  the  hatches  battened  down  fore 
and  aft. 

It  was  about  4 a.m.  whenthe  fore-top-sail  was  furled,  and 
the  storm  staysails  and  spanker  “ got  up  ” and  set.  Mean- 
while the  Captain  bad  sent  forward  to  his  cook  and  had  a 
couple  of  kettles  of  good  coffee  made,  and  so  when  the  work 
was  done  we  each  had  a pint  of  coffee.  I don’t  think  that 
anything  ever  tasted  better  than  that  coffee  did  then. 

When  I went  down  on  the  berth  deck,  what  a sight  met 
my  gaze ! mess  chests,  kettles,  dishes,  provisions,  etc.  were, 
piled  up  in  heaps,  or  scattered  about  the  deck  in  glorious  con- 
fusion. But  one  and  all  were  too  tired  to  put  things  to  rights 
and  threw  themselves  down  wherever  they  could  find  a place 
and  slept  until  8 a.m.  In  fact,  some  slept  the  greater  portion 
of  the  day,  hammocks  not  being  piped  up  at  all. 

Going  on  deck  at  8 a.m.  I found  that  we  were  in  the  vor- 
tex of  the  hurricane ; that  all  around  us  not  a breath  of  wind 
was  stirring,  and  everything  was  as  still  as  death,  while  in 
the  distance  on  every  side  could  be  seen  the  dark  raging  hur- 
ricane, and  the  murmur  of  its  fury  be  heard.  The  spectacle 
could  not  fail  to  impress  one  with  feelings  of  sublimity  and 
awe ; and  that  imprint  I shall  vividly  remember  to  my  dy- 
ing day.  I was  not  the  only  one  who  for  a time  little  ex- 
pected to  see  land  or  friends  again. 

Despairing  of  being  able  to  reach  Montevideo,  the  Cap- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


S5 

tain  determined  to  put  the  ship  about,  and  steam  off  out  of 
the  hurricane.  Accordingly  we  got  up  a full  head  of  steam 
and  with  everything  prepared  as  well  as  possible  we  started. 
We  were  about  two  hours  in  getting  out,  and  I hope  never  to 
endure  another  moment  of  suspense  such  as  was  crowded 
into  every  minute  of  those  two  hours.  Every  instant  it 
seemed  as  if  the  next  would  be  our  last,  and  I verily  believe 
that  had  the  Wachusett  been  a less  staunchly  built  vessel,  or 
been  less  skillfully  handled,  we  should  never  have  seen  port 
again.  Through  some  mismanagement  of  the  man  at  the 
helm,  she  pooped  a sea,  which  made  her  tremble  like  a leaf 
from  stern  to  stern,  and  for  a moment  it  seemed  as  if  the 
flood  of  water  on  her  deck  would  break  her.  She  could  not 
have  stood  another  such  sea.  However,  with  the  exceptions 
of  some  holes  torn  in  the  storm  sails,  which  were  up,  and  a 
portion  of  the  hammock  nettings  carried  away,  we  experi- 
enced no  injury  while  standing  out  of  the  hurricane. 

The  sailors,  many  of  whom  have  been  following  the  sea 
for  the  last  twenty  years,  all  agree  that  they  never  experi- 
enced a worse  gale  than  this  “ pampero  ” was.  Yesterday 
we  proceeded  farther  to  the  northward.  The  storm  abated 
and  the  sea  grew  less  rough,  but  still  the  waves  ran  very  high, 
and  we  rolled  and  pitched  about  so  much  as  to  make  all  of 
us  a little  sea  sick. 

The  weather  this  morning  still  continued  cloudy,  cold,  and 
unpleasant,  but  the  sea  was  quite  smooth  in  comparison  with 
that  of  yesterday. 

About  10  a.m.  we  heard  the  welcome,  joyous  words,  “ land 
ho  !”  shouted  out  from  the  mast-head.  This  we  soon  ascer- 
tained to  be  the  long,  narrow  island  of  St.  Catherine,  which 
lies  off  the  coast  of  Brazil,  about  four  hundred  miles  to  the 
southward  of  Rio  Janeiro.  About  noon  we  arrived  off  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor.  For  about  a mile  the  entrance  is  very 
narrow,  reminding  one  very  much  of  a river.  The  land  on 
either  hand  is  very  uneven,  but  with  no  considerable  emi- 
4* 


66 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


nences.  The  scenery  is  exceedingly  wild  and  picturesque, 
no  signs  of  civilization  to  be  seen,  and  the  whole  surface  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  covered  with  groves  of  orange 
trees,  and  a dense  and  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation. 
Emerging  from  this  narrow  entrance,  we  saw  a broad  and 
beautiful  bay  before  us,  stretching  away  almost  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach,  the  waters  of  which  were  as  smooth  as  a 
mill  pond. 

We  steamed  about  five  miles  up  this  bay,  and  then  came 
to  anchor  about  one  mile  from  the  shore,  opposite  a small 
village,  whose  name,  or  whether  it  has  any,  I as  yet  have 
been  unable  to  learn. 

The  town  of  St.  Catharine  lies  about  six  miles  farther  up, 
around  a bend  of  the  bay,  and  not  in  sight  from  where  we 
are  lying.  We  draw  too  much  water  to  go  up  any  farther,  a 
fact  which  is  regretted  by  all. 

Scarcely  any  signs  of  civilization  are  to  be  seen ; here  and 
there  an  occasional  clearing,  but  the  surface  for  the  most  part 
covered  with  forests.  I will  give  you  some  further  descrip- 
tion of  the  place,  as  soon  as  I shall  learn  about  it. 

How  long  we  are  to  remain  here  I am  unable  to  conjecture, 
but  suppose  we  shall  stop  long  enough  to  take  in  stores,  if 
they  can  be  procured  here.  I should  not  be  sorry  if  none 
were  to  be  had,  for  then  I think  we  should  be  obliged  to  go 
to  Rio  Janeiro,  and  I am  very  anxious  to  see  that  place. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


67 


LETTER  VII. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Rio  Janeiro, 

July  10,  1865. 

My  Dear  R. : 

For  once  my  wish  has  been  granted.  Provisions  were  not 
to  be  obtained  at  St.  Catherine,  and  we  were  compelled  to 
come  to  Rio  Janeiro  for  them.  That  same  afternoon  that  we 
dropped  anchor  at  St.  Catherine,  Mr.  Philip  and  the  Pay- 
master went  up  to  the  town  to  see  about  getting  coal  and 
provisions.  The  next  morning  a lighter  came  down,  bring- 
ing  some  fresh  provisions  and  some  hard  bread,  but  with  the 
news  that  coal  and  salt  provisions  were  not  to  be  obtained. 
The  hard  bread  that  was  brought  fully  merited  its  name,  for, 
in  every  sense  of  the  word,  it  was  decidedly  the  hardest  that 
I ever  saw.  In  appearance  it  resembles  a loaf  of  brown 
bread,  baked  in  a quart  basin,  and  which  had  raised  down 
instead  of  up,  so  that  it  was  about  an  inch  in  thickness.  I 
tried  some  of  it  for  breakfast  the  next  day.  It  was  some- 
what harder  than  flint,  and  to  eat  it  without  soaking  was  a 
matter  of  impossibility.  On  account  of  so  many  of  them 
being  broken,  the  gunner  entered  a protest  against  our  using 
the  battle-axes  to  break  the  biscuits  up  into  mouthfuls,  and 
we  had  to  resort  to  the  heels  of  our  brogans.  Fortunately 
I was  not  as  hungry  as  some  others,  so  that  I waited  until 
mine  could  soak,  and  did  not  insanely  attempt  to  eat  it  with- 
out, as  they  did,  breaking  their  teeth,  getting  choked,  &c. 
Beside  all  that  has  been  said,  it  is  really  affecting  to  think 
that  at  every  mouthful  one  is  destroying  the  homes  of  thou- 
sands— of  weevil,  bugs,  &c., — and  with  the  homes,  the  in- 
mates. 


68 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Saturday  morning  the  crew  holystoned  the  decks,  ladders, 
and  gratings,  scrubbed  the  paint  work,  and  shifted  into  white 
clothes,  so  that  we  were  fully  prepared,  after  the  most  ap- 
proved man-of-war  fashion,  to  take  in  the  two  lighter  loads 
of  coal  which  came  down  that  morning.  Mr.  Philip  and  the 
Paymaster  returned  that  morning  and  brought  with  them 
some  late  American  papers.  The  most  interesting  news  was 
that  of  the  capture  of  Jeff.  Davis  in  female  clothing,  while 
attempting  to  escape  across  the  border  into  Mexico ; also, 
that  Booth,  the  assassin  of  President  Lincoln,  had  been 
killed.  Mr.  Philip  also  brought  us  word  that  two  American 
men-of-war  were  lying  at  Rio. 

While  lying  at  St.  Catherine,  bumboats  used  to  come  along 
side  bringing  the  largest  and  most  luscious  oranges  that  I 
ever  tasted.  These  were  sold  very  cheap,  four  or  five  for  a 
cent.  Sunday  afternoon,  a number  of  us  went  to  Mr.  Philip 
and  asked  permission  to  take  one  of  the  cutters  and  go  ashore 
after  a load  of  oranges.  This  request  was  granted  after  a 
moment’s  hesitation,  and  about  fifteen  of  us,  armed  with 
baskets  and  bags,  set  out  upon  our  “oranging  expedition.” 
The  place  chosen  was  the  hill  to  the  right  and  rear  of  the 
village  before  mentioned.  The  slope  was  covered  with  a 
forest  of  orange-trees,  whose  ripe  fruit  fairly  made  the  hill 
look  yellow  in  the  distance.  We  found  a good  place  for 
landing,  and,  leaving  bags  and  baskets  under  the  charge  of 
the  boat-keeper,  set  out  for  a ramble.  As  we  drew  near  the 
hill,  we  paused  a moment  to  feast  our  eyes  upon  the  trees 
fairly  groaning  under  their  load  of  ripe,  yellow  fruit,  while 
the  ground  was  covered  with  that  which  had  fallen  off. 

There  were  thousands  and  thousands  of  bnshels  of  the 
largest  and  finest  oranges  that  I ever  saw,  all  to  be  had  for 
the  taking  of  them.  As  I stood  there  feasting  my  eyes,  (and 
mouth,  too,)  upon  them,  I wished  that  I could  have  had  all 
my  friends  there  to  enjoy  the  feast  with  me.  In  sweetness 
and  delicacy  of  flavor,  those  oranges  by  far  surpassed  any 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


69 


that  I ever  before  tasted.  In  fact,  it  is  impossible  to  procure 
as  good  ones  at  home ; for,  in  order  that  they  may  be  pre- 
served until  they  can  be  carried  there,  they  must  be  picked 
when  green.  Oranges  will  keep  but  a very  short  time  after 
they  are  fully  ripe,  and  that  rich,  delicious  flavor  is  not  to  be 
had  unless  they  are  allowed  to  mature  on  the  tree.  Beside 
the  ripe  oranges,  there  were  blossoms,  and  the  green  fruit  in 
nearly  every  stage  of  its  growth,  on  the  same  tree.  After 
eating  our  fill  and  rambling  about  for  two  or  three  hours,  we 
went  down  to  the  boat,  procured  and  filled  our  bags  and 
baskets  with  the  largest  and  ripest  fruit,  and,  with  our  boat 
deeply  laden,  returned  to  the  ship.  There  arriving,  the  or- 
anges were  divided  out  to  the  messes,  and  so  one  and  all  re- 
joiced over  our  “ oranging  expedition.” 

Monday  we  took  in  about  fifty  tons  of  coal  from  an  Eng- 
lish bark,  which  was  lying  near  us.  In  the  evening  the 
Captain  returned  from  St.  Catherine,  whither  he  had  gone 
the  Saturday  previous,  and  gave  orders  to  have  everything 
in  readiness  to  start  for  Rio  Janeiro  the  next  morning. 

Tuesday,  July  4th,  was  a “glorious  day,”  as  far  as  the 
weather  was  concerned,  so  soft  and  balmy  the  air,  not  a cloud 
to  be  seen,  and  the  temperature  just  right  for  comfort.  We 
“ dressed  ship”  at  sunrise  in  honor  of  the  day,  as  did  also  the 
three  Brazilian  corvettes,  then  lying  at  anchor  in  the  harbor. 
This  was  done  by  hoisting  an  American  ensign  at  the  fore, 
main,  and  mizzenmast-heads  and  peak,  and  the  jack  on  the 
jack-staff  out  on  the  bowsprit.  One  nation  “dresses  ship” 
for  another  by  hoisting  that  nation’s  ensign  at  the  foremast- 
head, and  their  own  ensigns  at  the  other  mentioned  places. 
In  the  morning,  after  the  work  was  finished,  the  crew  shifted 
into  white  frocks  and  cap-covers ; permission  was  granted 
them  to  smoke  all  day,  and  no  unnecessary  work  set  them  to 
do — a man-of-war-man’s  holiday.  I wish  that  we  had  been 
into  some  port  where  we  could  have  procured  the  materials 
to  celebrate  the  day  in  a more  appropriate  manner. 


70 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


From  the  senior  Brazilian  naval  officer  at  St.  Catherine, 
Captain  Townsend  had  the  assurance  that  the  Florida  affair 
had  been  satisfactorily  settled,  and  that  now  we  could  go  into 
any  Brazilian  port  we  wished  without  fear  of  being  molested. 
At  11  a.  m.  we  were  under  way ; at  2 p.  m.  we  had  cleared 
the  mouth  of  the  harbor  and  were  standing  northwardly  with 
all  sail  set,  and  with  a good  fair  wind  we  were  averaging 
nine  knots  per  hour.  The  following  two  days  were  occupied 
by  the  crew  in  cleaning  and  painting  the  ship,  painting  boats, 
and  making  everything  as  neat  and  trim  as  possible,  in  order 
to  make  a fine  debut  at  Rio. 

For  some  time  I had  been  watching  the  boatswain’s  mate, 
of  whom  some  mention  has  been  made,  and  the  surgeon’s 
steward,  as  they  were  engaged  in  playing  chess,  and  en- 
deavoring, in  vain,  to  get  some  insight  into  the  game.  One 
morning,  on  our  passage  from  St.  Catherine  to  Rio,  A.  came 
to  me  and  said  that  if  I had  any  leisure  time,  and  felt  so  dis- 
posed, he  would  endeavor  to  initiate  me  into  the  mysteries 
of  chess.  Of  course  I had  time,  and  wished  to  learn ; so 
the  apparatus  was  procured  and  the  initiating  commenced. 
That  day  and  the  following  were  taken  up  by  this  teaching, 
and  at  the  end,  I had  become  quite  skillful  at  the  game.  To 
me  it  is  quite  fascinating,  and  I promise  myself  much  pleas- 
ure and  profit  from  its  acquisition,  as  it  will  serve  to  while 
away  some  of  the  long  and  tedious  hours  of  the  cruise. 
This  feeling  is  common  to  all. 

Thursday  evening,  July  6th,  we  sighted  land,  which  we 
knew  to  be  some  islands  • off  the  mouth  of  the  Bay  of  Rio 
Janeiro,  so  we  “lay  to”  the  greater  portion  of  that  night,  as 
we  were  afraid  that  we  might  run  aground  should  we  attempt 
to  proceed  in  the  night  time.  The  crew  were  quite  merry 
that  night  over  the  prospect  of  going  into  Rio  the  next  day, 
and  singing  and  dancing  were  kept  up  until  a very  late  hour. 

Going  on  deck  the  next  morning,  I found  that  the  promise 
of  the  previous  evening  of  our  having  a fine  day  to  go  into 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


71 


Rio  had  not  been  verified,  for  the  rain  was  pouring  in  tor- 
rents. As  soon  as  it  was  daylight  we  started  on  our  way 
again  for  Rio,  then  about  twenty-four  miles  distant,  and  at 
8.30  a.m.  we  began  to  “open”  the  bay.  Two  or  three 
pretty  inlets,  with  rocky  bases,  enveloped  by  thick  shrubbery 
and  brush-wood,  lie  at  the  entrance  of  the  channel, 

Among  the  first  points  of  interest  which  demanded  notice 
and  admiration,  were  the  magnificent  cone  of  the  Sugar-Loaf, 
on  our  left,  and  the  fortress  of  Santa-Cruz,  with  its  floating 
banner,  on  a gently  swelling  hill  on  our  right.  From  these 
points,  on  either  side,  the  shores  of  the  bay,  lined  at  the 
water’s  edge  with  the  cottages  and  hamlets  of  the  fishermen, 
sweep  widely  around  ; while  behind,  hills,  in  the  richest  cul- 
tivation, sprinkled  with  farm-houses  and  villas,  and  crowned 
with  churches  and  monasteries,  all  in  purest  white,  rise 
abruptly  on  every  side,  till  two  or  three  miles  inland,  they 
terminate  in  ranges  of  mountains  of  the  boldest  and  most 
varied  beauty. 

At  the  distance  of  about  three  miles  from  the  entrance,  a 
small  castellated  island  rises  from  the  water,  over  which  a 
tower,  here  and  there,  with  a forest  of  shipping  adjoining, 
designated  the  location  of  the  city.  A little  to  the  right,  a 
succession  of  low,  green  islets,  studding  the  smooth  waters 
of  the  bay,  showed  the  direction  in  which  it  penetrates  far 
into  the  interior,  till,  at  a distance  of  forty  or  fifty  miles,  the 
lofty  and  fantastic  peaks  of  the  Organ  mountains  closed  the 
view. 

The  Sugar-Loaf  is  a strikingly  unique  and  imposing  ob- 
ject, a gigantic  rock,  a thousand  feet  high,  singularly  of  the 
form  which  its  name  indicates,  and  inclining  slightly  over  its 
base  southward.  It  is  entirely  naked,  excepting  a little  tuft- 
ing of  moss  and  bushes  in  some  of  the  crevices  indenting  its 
sides,  and  on  its  top.  Apparently,  it  is  utterly  inaccessible 
on  every  side ; but  it  is  said  that  a British  officer  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  top  and  planting  there  the  flag  of  his  nation. 


72 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


The  story  adds,  however,  that  he  paid  for  his  venturesome 
deed  with  his  life ; whether  perishing  in  the  descent,  or  by 
the  dagger  of  an  assassin,  is  not  known ; but  the  latter  is 
thought  most  probable.  • 

A party  of  Austrian  officers  accomplished  a similar  feat ; 
and  an  American,  also,  is  said  to  have  left  the  stars  and 
stripes  waving  from  its  summit — a report  as  well  founded, 
probably,  as  either  of  the  former ; for  our  countrymen,  in 
whatever  part  of  the  world  they  are  found,  are  not,  to  say 
the  least,  behind  any  that  they  meet,  when  boldness  and  in- 
trepidity are  in  requisition. 

The  distance  from  the  Sugar-Loaf  to  the  city,  in  a direct 
line,  is  about  five  miles ; but  the  shores  on  either  side  sweep 
from  the  channel  into  several  bays,  making  the  route  by  them 
much  more  circuitous.  Botafogo,  the  largest  and  deepest  of 
these  inlets,-  first  meets  the  eye.  The  entrance  to  it  is  very 
narrow,  and  almost  entirely  shut  out  from  the  sight.  Encir- 
cled by  wild  and  lofty  mountains,  it  exhibits,  at  almost  every 
point  of  view,  the  characteristic  features  of  a fine  lake.  In 
the  momentary  glance  as  we  passed,  with  the  vapors  of  the 
morning  still  hanging  upon  the  mountains,  but  for  a cottage 
here  and  there,  with  the  boat  of  a fisherman  along  the  shore, 
it  might  have  been  thought  still  a haunt  only  for  the  numer- 
ous sea-fowl  seen  hovering  around  its  waters,  or  soaring 
among  the  inaccessible  crags  above. 

Next  to  Botafogo,  and  forming  a kind  of  outer  bay  to  it, 
comes  the  widely-curving  Praya  de  Flamingo,  or  “ Beach  of 
the  Flamingoes,”  lined  with  a range  of  fine  houses.  Imme- 
diately adjoining  is  the  Gloria  Hill,  a place  of  great  beauty, 
and  forming  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  points  in  the  pano- 
rama of  the  whole  bay.  Upon  its  brow  stands  the  first  pub- 
lic building  attracting  particular  notice  in  approaching  the 
anchorage — the  church  “ Nossa  Senora  de  Gloria,”  of  our 
lady  of  glory.  The  building  is  a small  octagon,  with  lofty 
towers  of  neat  and  well-proportioned  architecture ; the  whole 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


73 


beautifully  white,  ornamented  with  pilasters,  cornices,  and 
casemates  of  brown  freestone.  It  is  delightfully  located  and 
overhung  with  trees  and  shrubbery  of  splendid  growth. 

Beyond  the  Gloria  is  another  indentation,  over  which  is 
seen  a long  stone  causeway,  lined  with  houses  on  the  inner 
side,  and  above  and  beyond,  a section  of  a lofty  and  massive 
aqueduct,  running  from  the  mountains  to  the  city.  Then 
comes  another  hill,  surmounted  by  a monastery — a gloomy 
pile,  and  in  poor  repair — immediately  beneath  which,  on  a 
low  piece  of  level  ground,  lies  the  greater  portion  of  the 
city,  with  its  numerous  steeples  and  towers,  the  most  con- 
spicuous being  those  of  the  imperial  chapel  and  cathedral. 

The  imperial  residence  fronts  the  water,  and,  with  the  pub- 
lic square  adjoining,  is  in  full  view  from  the  anchorage ; 
while  the  episcopal  palace  stands  on  a hill,  some  two  hund- 
red feet  high,  in  the  center  of  the  city.  This  is  a fine 
building,  and  finely  located,  but  of  heavy  and  monkish  ar- 
chitecture. Near  it,  on  the  west,  is  another  hill  and  convent ; 
and,  closely  adjoining  the  imperial  navy-yard,  from  which  a 
small  rocky  and  fortified  island  runs  into  the  harbor,  and 
completes  the  outline  of  the  sketch  on  this  side  of  the  bay. 

With  these  leading  objects,  surrounded  by  masses  of  build- 
ing for  a foreground,  backed  by  verdant  hills  in  high  cultiva- 
tion, having  cottages  and  villas  embowered  in  bloom  and 
beauty,  scattered  over  them, — the  whole  terminated  by  a 
splendid  range  of  mountains,  with  the  shaft  of  the  Corcovado, 
two  thousand  feet  in  height,  rising  in  the  center  like  a pin- 
nacle against  the  sky, — you  will  have  some  conception  of 
the  magnificence  of  the  scene. 

At  the  city,  the  bay  is  about  three  miles  wide.  The  op- 
posite shore,  on  the  north,  is  called  Praya  Grande.  It  is 
less  wild  and  lofty  in  its  general  features,  but  equally  rich  in 
the  varied  beauty  of  hill  and  dell,  wood  and  lawn — of  plan- 
tation in  all  the  luxuriance  of  artificial  improvement,  and 


74 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


mountain  forest,  standing,  as  for  ages,  in  perennial  verdure, 
undisturbed  by  the  inroads  of  civilization. 

There  may  be  scenery  in  the  world  that  equals  this,  but 
there  can  scarce  be  any  that  surpasses  it.  As  a whole,  it  is 
sublime ; while  every  distinct  section  would,  in  itself,  make 
a picture.  Whether  viewed  in  mass  or  detail,  it  exceeds  in 
beauty  and  variety  everything  that  I have  as  yet  seen. 

Now  to  generalize  a little.  Rio  Janeiro,  the  capital  of  the 
Brazilian  empire,  ranks  as  the  largest  and  most  flourishing 
city  of  South  America.  It  lies  on  the  western  side  of  the 
bay,  which  is  some  seventy  or  eighty  miles  in  circumference, 
forming  one  of  the  most  spacious  and  secure  receptacles  for 
shipping  in  the  world.  In  comparison  with  all  others,  trav- 
elers have  pronounced  the  bay  of  Rio  Janeiro  to  surpass 
them  all  in  beauty.  It  is  studded  with  upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred islands ; the  ships  of  all  nations  are  constantly  seen 
passing  in  and  out  of  its  channels,  and  innumerable  small 
boats  are  ever  flitting  about.  Some  thirty-five  or  forty  men- 
of-war,  and  several  hundred  merchant  vessels,  representing 
almost  every  nationality,  are  now  in  the  harbor. 

The  town  is  tolerably  well  built,  much  in  the  European 
style,  the  houses  being  three  or  four  stories  high,  though  the 
streets  are  quite  narrow.  The  place  where  we  anchored  was 
nearly  opposite  the  Emperor’s  chapel,  about  a mile  from 
shore.  The  French,  English,  and  Portuguese  flag-ships 
saluted  us  as  we  came  in,  their  bands  playing  “ Hail  Colum- 
bia.” 

Saturday  morning,  July  8th,  we  got  under  way  at  an  early 
hour,  steamed  across  the  bay  to  the  coal-wharf,  and  for  once, 
regardless  of  man-of-war  custom,  we  ‘‘coaled  ship”  before 
cleaning  up.  Commenced  work  at  9 a.  m.  and  finished  at  4 
p.  m.,  having  taken  in  about  two  hundred  tons.  Two  large 
American  clippers  were  lying  alongside  the  coal-wharf,  dis- 
charging coal.  I made  the  acquaintance  of  the  second  mate 
of  one  of  them,  who  took  me  on  board,  shewed  me  about  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


75 


ship,  introduced  me  to  his  wife — a very  pleasant  and  quite 
pretty  young  woman  of  about  twenty-five — kept  me  to  din- 
ner, and  when  I was  coming  away  gave  me  an  armful  of 
books  and  papers,  making  my  visit  an  exceedingly  pleasant 
and  profitable  one.  At  4.80  p.  m.  we  got  under  way  again, 
and  steamed  back  to  our  old  anchorage,  washing  down  and 
cleaning  the  ship  while  on  our  way  there.  That  same  even- 
ing we  saluted  the  Brazilian  flag  with  twenty-one  guns, 
thus  forever  healing  the  breach  made  by  the  Wachusett  in 
taking  the  Florida  out  of  Bahia,  upwards  of  a year  ago. 

Sunday  was  stormy,  or  we  doubtless  would  have  been 
thronged  with  visitors ; as  it  was,  but  few  came.  This  morn  - 
ing  it  cleared  off*,  and  it  has  been  a lovely  day.  The  crew 
have  been  hard  at  work  all  day  in  painting,  scraping  spars, 
setting  up  rigging,  tarring  down,  and  polishing  up  generally. 
They  have  sufficient  employment  of  this  description  to  keep 
them  busy  all  this  week. 

I have  not  the  least  idea  how  long  we  shall  remain  here, 
but  everything  now  betokens  a long  stay.  I hope  that  this 
may  be ; for  I hardly  think  that  we  shall  find  another  place 
where  there  is  so  much  to  excite  and  interest,  or  that  we 
shall  like  as  well. 


76 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  VIII. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Rio  Janeiro, 
September  19,  1865. 

My  Dear  R. : 

The  prospect  of  a long  stay  in  Rio  has  been  verified,  and 
the  anticipated  pleasure  has  been  more  than  realized  by 
nearly  all.  Yes,  our  stay  in  Rio  has  been  a very  interesting 
and  exciting  one. 

Tuesday,  July  11th,  all  the  men-of-war  in  the  harbor 
“ dressed  ship,”  “ manned  yards,”  and  fired  a salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns,  for  the  Emperor  of  Brazil  who  passed  down  the 
harbor  on  a.  Portuguese  corvette.  He  was  starting  for  Para- 
guay  to  visit  his  forces  there,  now  engaged  in  war  with  the 
Paraguayans.  It  was  a splendid  sight,  thus  to  see  upwards 
of  fifty  men-of-war  all  dressed  out,  with  their  yards  manned) 
and  to  hear  the  salutes  thundered  forth. 

Thursday  we  “ dressed  ship,”  with  the  Brazilian  flag  at 
the  main,  and  fired  a salute  of  twenty-one  guns  in  honor  of 
the  birth  of  a princess.  Upon  more  than  one-half  of  the 
days  that  we  have  been  lying  in  this  harbor  we  have  “ dressed 
ship,”  and  fired  salutes  for  some  nation’s  holidays.  Every 
nation,  except  the  United  States,  has  had  one  or  more.  In 
one  week  the  Brazilians  and  the  Portuguese  had  each  two 
holidays,  and  it  does  seem  as  if  these  two  powers  had  as 
many  as  all  others  here  represented.  The  most  of  us,  how- 
ever, would  not  object  to  having  every  day  a holiday ; for 
they  ever  bring  some  excitement,  thus  enlivening  a long  stay* 
For  a long  time  the  Wachusett  was  the  only  representa- 
tive of  the  United  States  in  the  harbor.  During  the  early 
part  of  August,  the  Mohongo  came  into  port,  and  remained 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


77 


long  enough  to  go  into  the  dry-dock  and  have  her  bottom 
cleaned.  She  then  continued  on  her  way  around  the  Horn 
to  join  the  North  Pacific  squadron.  About  two  weeks  later 
the  Susquehana,  flag-ship  of  the  South  Atlantic  squadron  and 
bearing  the  flag  of  Rear  Admiral  Gordon,  arrived  at  Rio 
Janeiro.  All  were  rejoiced  at  her  presence  ; for,  since  her 
arrival,  it  has  seemed  as  if  we  had  held  a higher  position 
with  the  other  nations  here  represented,  all  of  which  have 
one  or  more  large  vessels.  Then,  too,  among  the  salutes  fired 
at  almost  every  hour  of  the  day,  the  stars  and  stripes  have 
sometimes  been  seen  at  the  foremast-head. 

Since  that  time  the  squadron  has  received  further  addition 
in  the  shape  of  two  or  three  gunboats,  so  that  the  officers 
and  crews  have  had  much  pleasure  in  their  intercourse  with 
each  other  and  in  “ ship  visiting.”  It  is  customary  when 
two  or  more  vessels  of  the  same  nationality  are  lying  in  port 
together,  to  allow  a number  of  the  crews  to  visit  each  other 
Sunday  afternoons.  All  avail  themselves  of  this  privilege, 
those  of  the  same  department  or  rank  visiting  each  other  as 
old  friends,  although  they  may  be  from  different  States,  and 
have  never  met  before. 

For  a long  time  after  our  arrival,  the  Wachusett  was  daily 
thronged  with  visitors,  all  of  them  anxious  to  see  the  vessel 
that  seized  the  Florida.  Being  made  the  “ Lion  of  the  har- 
bor” was  somewhat  different  treatment  from  what  we  ex- 
pected ; but  it  really  seemed  as  if  they  couldn’t  see  us  enough 
or  show  us  enough  respect  and  courtesy.  I am  sure  that  we 
are  all  better  satisfied  that  it  was  so  than  that  they  should  have 
harbored  enmity  for  what  is  now  past.  Personally,  however,  I 
cannot  say  that  I greatly  admire  this  lionizing,  for,  nearly 
every  day  we  are  paraded  in  full  uniform,  on  the  quarter- 
deck to  receive  some  distinguished  visitor. 

Soon  after  we  came  into  port,  the  crew  received  their  first 
allowance  of  money,  and  had  “ general  liberty  ” given.  As 
there  was  not  a sufficient  amount  of  silver  in  the  ship,  a large 


78 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


number  of  the  crew  received  their  allowance  of  five  dollars 
in  ten  milrea  bills — a milrea  being  equal  in  value  to  a silver 
half  dollar.  In  the  afternoon  when  the  dingy  was  sent  on 
shore,  many  of  those  that  had  received  bills  sent  them  ashore 
by  the  coxswain  to  have  them  changed  into  specie.  When 
the  dingey  returned  late  in  the  evening,  the  coxswain  was  mis- 
sing. The  boat’s  crew  said  that  he  left  them  as  soon  as  the 
boat  touched  the  shore  and  they  had  not  seen  him  since  then, 
nor  has  any  subsequent  search  revealed  anything  regarding 
his  whereabouts.  He  had  about  two  hundred  dollars,  and 
has  doubtless  returned  to  the  States. 

The  following  morning  our  watch  went  ashore  on  “ general 
liberty.”  When  the  boat  returned  the  next  day  with  the 
liberty  men,  three  of  the  marines  were  absent.  Towards 
evening  word  was  brought  off  from  shore,  that  one  of  them, 
a man  named  Lee,  had  been  found  dead  in  the  street  that 
morning,  and  that  the  remaining  two  were  in  gaol.  In  the 
evening  they  came  off,  bringing  the  following  particulars. 

After  reaching  shore  the  day  previous,  they  strolled  about 
the  city  for  a time,  making  a few  purchases,  and  drinking 
pretty  freely.  About  dark  they  went  into  a hotel  at  the  upper 
part  of  the  city  kept  by  an  Irish- American  with  whom  one 
of  them  was  acquainted.  There  they  remained  about  two 
hours,  rolling  ten-pins  and  drinking  until  supper  time. 

As  there  was  to  be  a dance  at  the  hotel  that  evening,  and 
they  could  have  lodgings,  they  concluded  to  remain  there 
over  night.  In  the  course  of  the  evening  all  of  them  drank 
very  freely,  but  Lee  was  the  most  intoxicated  of  the  three. 
About  eleven  o’clock  he  retired  ; but,  half  an  hour  later  he 
came  out  of  his  room,  and  said  that  he  was  going  out  for  a 
walk.  Before  he  came  back  the  others  retired,  and  it  is  not 
definitely  known  whether  he  returned  or  not. 

They  were  awakened  the  next  morning  by  a policeman, 
who  broke  into  their  room,  told  them  that  their  comrade  had 
been  found  dead  in  the  streets,  and  wanted  to  know  if  they 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


79 


knew  anything  about  it.  They  told  him  about  his  going  out 
the  evening  previous,  but  supposed  that  he  had  returned. 
The  policeman  then  took  them  to  the  dead  house  to  identify 
the  body  of  their  comrade,  and  after  that  to  a magistrate, 
who  having  heard  what  they  had  to  say  concerning  the  affair, 
released  them.  The  only  mark  to  be  seen  on  Lee’s  body, 
was  a small  purplish  spot  over  his  left  temple,  which  bore  evi- 
dence of  his  having  received  a blow  there. 

By  some  it  is  thought  that  he  was  murdered  by  some  of 
the  old  crew  of  the  Florida,  many  of  whom  were  at  the 
hotel  that  evening,  and  with  whom  Lee  had  some  angry 
words.  Others  accuse  the  landlord  of  committing  the  mur- 
der, but  I can’t  see  for  what  reason  he  should  do  it.  Not 
that  I think  he  would  hesitate,  if  there  was  a sufficient  in- 
ducement for  so  doing,  but  he  had  no  trouble  with  Lee,  and 
he  certainly  could  not  have  done  it  for  money,  as  Lee  at  the 
time  of  his  death  had  not  more  than  two  or  three  milreas. 

The  sleeping  apartments  of  the  American  house  are  on 
the  second  floor,  opening  upon  a balcony,  which  overlooks  the 
street.  Now  by  some  it  is  thought  that  he  returned  after 
going  out,  and  wishing  to  go  out  the  second  time,  instead  of 
going  down  stairs,  walked  over  the  balustrade,  which  is  very 
low,  and  was  killed  by  the  fall.  The  latter  I think  is  the 
most  plausible  explanation ; more  so,  after  seeing  the  scene 
of  the  affair.  The  body  was  found  but  a short  distance  from 
where  he  would  have  fallen.  He  might  not  have  been  in- 
stantly killed,  but  lived  long  enough  to  get  that  distance. 

Early  the  next  morning,  Monday,  Captain  Townsend  sent 
his  clerk  ashore  to  make  preparations  for  the  funeral.  About 
noon  he  returned  with  the  coffin,  and  a few  minutes  later  the 
body  was  brought  on  board.  At  2.30  p.  m.  all  hands  were 
called  to  bury  the  dead,  and  the  funeral  service  of  the  Epis- 
copal church  was  read  by  the  Captain. 

The  body  was  then  taken  ashore  for  burial,  accompanied 
by  several  of  the  officers  and  crew,  and  a firing  party  of 


80 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


eight  marines.  The  cemetery  to  which  we  conveyed  the  re- 
mains lies  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  city,  and  is  the 
most  beautiful  one  that  I ever  saw.  It  is  very  large,  and 
very  tastefully  laid  out  in  lovely  walks  and  drives  ; the  roads 
and  paths  on  either  hand  shaded  by  splendid  trees,  or  bor- 
dered with  beds  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers  of  almost 
every  variety.  On  the  whole  it  appears  more  like  some 
beautiful  garden,  than  the  resting-place  of  the  dead.  For 
this  I give  the  Brazilians  credit ; thus,  leaving  grim-visaged 
death  shorn  of  some  of  his  terrors,  so  that  one  could  almost  be 
content  to  die,  if  one  could  only  rest  in  such  a lovely  spot  as 
this. 

In  the  corner  set  apart  for  the  Americans,  under  the 
shadow  of  a beautiful  weeping  willow,  we  laid  him  down. 
At  the  grave  the  usual  services  were  read  by  the  surgeon, 
and,  when  all  was  over,  we  fired  three  volleys  over  his  grave, 
and  returned  to  the  ship. 

Robert  Lee  was  an  Irishman  by  birth,  but  had  lived  in 
the  United  States  ever  since  he  was  a small  boy,  for  the 
most  part  in  the  neighborhood  of  Boston,  and  in  thought, 
word,  and  external  appearance  was  a thorough  American. 
Naturally  of  a quiet,  retiring,  kind-hearted  disposition,  he 
was  without  an  enemy  in  the  ship.  He  served  all  through 
the  war  in  the  army  of  the  Potomac.  It  seems  hard  that, 
after  escaping  all  the  dangers  there,  he  should  die  such  a death 
far  away  from  home  and  friends,  in  a foreign  land.  He 
leaves  a motherless  little  girl  about  twelve  years  of  age,  with 
some  friends  in  Roxbury. 

Oh ! I came  near  forgetting  to  mention  “ the  wedding  of 
Mary  and  John,”  which  was  celebrated  on  board  the  Wa- 
chusett,  Saturday  evening,  July  22d,  the  mate  and  steward- 
ess of  the  American  steamer  A , being  the  happy  couple. 

The  A is  chartered  by  the  Brazilian  government,  and 

by  it  used  in  transporting  troops  and  supplies  to  their  forces 
in  Paraguay. 


AND  A VOYAGE  1 HITHER. 


81 


In  the  forenoon  of  that  day  the  mate  came  on  board  and 
asked  the  Captain  if  he  could  and  would  marry  him.  He 
said  that  the  steamer  was  to  leave  in  three  days,  and  that  he 
wished  to  get  married  before  she  started.  By  the  Brazilian 
laws,  the  marriage  would  be  illegal,  unless  the  bans  were 
published  for  three  weeks  previous.  Of  course  Captain 
Townsend  could  and  would  tie  the  knot  for  them,  and  with 
his  usual  generous  accommodating  disposition,  and  a desire 
to  see  everything  done  with  as  much  eclat  as  possible,  he  set 
his  cook  at  work  to  prepare  refreshments,  sent  his  steward 
ashore  for  fruits,  flowers,  and  other  decorations,  and  had  the 
cabins  and  quarter-deck  finely  und  tastefully  decorated.  The 
couple  came  aboard  about  8 p.  m.,  but  the  ceremony  was  de- 
layed about  an  hour  in  waiting  for  the  captain  of  the  steamer. 

The  bride  was  either  very  timid  or  opposed  to  the  wedding, 
for  she  kept  her  face  buried  in  her  handkerchief  nearly  the 
whole  time,  and  appeared  as  if  she  were  crying  bitterly.  She 
was  richly  attired,  but  in  a manner  entirely  devoid  of  good 
taste.  As  far  as  I was  able  to  judge  by  an  occasional  glimpse 
of  her  face,  I considered  her  a very  plain,  unattractive  woman. 
John,  a tall,  broad-shouldered,  good  looking  young  man,  with 
a frank,  open,  honest  expression,  tried  every  means  within 
his  power  to  soothe  her,  but  without  success. 

As  soon  as  everything  was  in  readiness  for  the  ceremony, 
all  hands  were  called  aft  on  the  quarter-deck  to  witness  the 
marriage  ceremony.  Mary  and  John  took  their  place,  and 
then  the  Captain  proceeded  to  marry  them.  Mary  still  kept 
her  face  buried  in  her  handkerchief,  only  uncovering  it  to 
answer  in  a low  tremulous  voice  the  questions  asked  her. 
The  captain  of  the  steamer  gave  the  bride  away,  John  slipped 
a ring  on  her  finger,  and  the  twain  became  one  flesh. 

After  the  ceremony  they  repaired  to  the  upper  cabin,  and 
partook  of  the  refreshments  there  prepared,  and  where  all 
the  officers  were  presented  to  them.  After  they  had  taken 
their  departure,  the  captain  summoned  a large  number  of  us 
5 


82 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


into  the  cabin  where  we  drank  to  the  health  of  the  bride  and 
groom  in  a glass  of  the  Captain’s  wine.  Three  days  later 
the  A — , started  for  Paraguay,  and  two  smiling  faces  waved 
their  handkerchiefs  to  us  in  passing. 

Doubtless  you  begin  to  think  that  I have  been  a long  time 
in  Rio  without  getting  ashore.  My  first  cruise  on  shore  wTas 
in  company  with  a friend  who  has  been  in  Rio  many  times 
before,  and  was  almost  as  well  acquainted  with  all  the  places 
of  interest,  as  with  those  of  his  native  city. 

We  landed  at  a narrow  quay  in  the  middle  of  Palace 
Square,  one  of  the  busiest  quarters  of  Rio.  This  square  is 
quite  neat  and  pretty  for  a Portuguese  city,  although  without 
any  attractive  ornament,  and  built  without  order  or  taste. 
After  passing  the  prison-like  granite  building  near  the  center, 
dignified  by  the  name  of  palace,  we  entered  Rua  Direita  at 
its  rear,  passed  under  an  arch  which  connects  the  palace  to  a 
range  of  chambers  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  and 
stopped  before  the  Royal  Chapel  near  by.  This  is  very  plain 
and  simple  without,  but  very  rich  within,  as  we  found  upon 
entering.  The  most  attractive  thing  to  be  seen  there,  is  the 
painting  of  the  Crucifixion,  which  hangs  against  the  wall  op- 
posite the  entrance,  and  which  is  so  well  executed,  that  one 
needs  to  lay  his  hand  upon  the  canvass  before  he  fully  con- 
vinces himself  that  it  is  not  a living  reality.  So  perfect  is  it, 
that  one  feels  sure  that  he  beholds  the  blood  trickling  down 
from  the  spear-thrust  in  His  side  and  the  prints  of  the  nails 
in  His  hands  and  feet.  On  His  countenance  one  distinctly 
sees  the  expression  of  pain  together  with  that  seraphic  smile, 
which  could  only  belong  to  one  very  near  to  Heaven  and 
God.  It  seems  incredible  that  the  skill  of  man  could  exe- 
cute anything  so  perfect  as  this.  The  roof  or  ceiling  of  the 
Chapel  is  high  and  vaulted,  and  upon  it  is  the  finest  fresco 
painting  that  I ever  saw.  There  are  represented  “ the  an- 
gels of  God  ascending  and  descending  upon  the  Son  of  man.” 

From  the  Rua  Direita  we  turned  up  into  Rua  do  Ouvredor, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


83 


a narrow  street,  filthy  and  badly  paved,  but  the  Broadway  of 
Rio.  This  street  is  lined  on  either  hand  by  attractive  shops 
of  fancy  goods,  colored  silks  and  cloths,  and  flowers  and 
feathers.  Among  the  most  attractive  curiosities  to  us  were 
the  large  number  of  strange  and  brilliantly  colored  bugs  and 
insects,  either  seen  in  large  collections  in  suitable  frames,  or 
tastefully  set  in  some  article  of  jewelry.  The  greater  num- 
ber of  the  last  mentioned  we  saw  on  Rua  do  Ourives,  or  the 
jewelers’  street,  which  crosses  the  middle  of  Rua  do  Ouvridor. 
This  street  is  upwards  of  two-thirds  of  a mile  in  length,  and 
is  occupied  throughout  by  jewelers  and  silver-smiths. 

The  head  of  Rua  do  Ouvridor  opens  into  Don  Pedro 
Square,  near  a noted  Cafe.  We  were  somewhat  faint  when 
we  reached  the  head  of  this  street,  so  we  entered  the  Cafe 
and  called  for  coffee  and  cakes,  throwing  dowrn  the  usual 
price,  three  cents.  The  Portuguese  and  their  descendants,  as 
well  as  the  Spaniards,  are  very  fond  of  this  beverage,  as  is 
shown  by  the  almost  numberless  little  saloons  or  cafes  which 
are  found  on  almost  every  corner  of  the  streets  of  their  cities 
and  towns,  and  these  always  filled  with  customers.  The 
quantity  of  the  coffee  obtained  is  small,  but  the  strength  of 
a large  cupful  is  condensed  into  that  of  a small  one.  I re- 
member one  saloon  in  particular  where  the  cups  in  v7hich 
they  brought  us  the  coffee,  would  not  hold  more  than  two 
table  spoonfuls,  and  were  emptied  at  a single  draught.  The 
sensation  then  experienced  has  been  aptly  compared  to  “that 
of  a slight  electric  shock.”  But  to  return  to  the  Cafd,  and 
the  coffee  and  cakes  that  were  soon  brought.  There  we  re- 
mained upwards  of  an  hour  a Vespagnole,  eating  cakes,  sip- 
ping our  coffee,  and  listening  to  the  songs  of  a quartette  of 
little  boys  and  girls,  wdio  accompanied  their  songs  with  the 
sound  of  the  flute,  violin,  harp,  and  guitar.  The  sweetness 
of  their  childish  voices,  as  they  sang  for  us  the  Star  Span- 
gled Banner,  1 had  never  heard  equaled,  and  it  tempted  me 
to  many  subsequent  visits  to  this  cafe. 


84 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


The  French  use  brandy  as  an  addition  to  their  coffee,  and 
tlieir  example  is  followed  to  some  extent  by  the  Brazilians. 
Whenever  coffee  is  called  for,  in  many  saloons,  a decanter 
filled  with  brandy  and  finely  graded  is  placed  upon  the  table  ; 
then,  when  the  bill  is  called  for,  the  bottle  is  examined  and 
one  charged  according  to  the  amount  used.  I tried  the  ex- 
periment, but  don’t  think  that  brandy  is  any  improvement  to 
coffee. 

After  leaving  the  cafe  the  attractions  of  Rua  do  Ouvridor, 
induced  us  to  turn  our  steps  thitherward  again.  A promi- 
nent reason,  that  this  street  has  been  the  principal  rendezvous 
during  our  stay,  for  our  jolly  tars,  even  of  the  finest  cloth,  is 
that  there  they  would  meet,  either  in  the  shops  or  on  the 
street,  the  most  attractive  specimens  of  womankind  to  be 
found  in  Rio.  The  man  spake  from  experience  who  said 
that,  “it  is  the  sailor  alone,  after  being  absent  as  he  often  is, 
for  weeks  and  months  from  the  presence  of  endearing  woman, 
who  can  fully  appreciate  her  cheering  attractions.  To  him 
woman  is  a new  creature,  the  fairest  object  he  can  meet  with 
in  a voyage  ; and,  when  contrasted  in  his  mind  with  his 
gross  companions  of  the  ruder  sex  with  whom  he  has  weath- 
ered the  seas,  he  is  enraptured,  and  the  first  fair  one,  in  what- 
ever garb,  that  meets  his  eye,  appears  to  him  like  a perfect 
houri,  and  he  eagerly  gazes  at  her  and  at  all  of  her  sex,  with 
an  open  soul  of  admiration  swimming  in  his  eyes.” 

The  females,  those  that  are  of  Spanish  or  Portuguese  des- 
cent, are  generally  of  a pale  complexion,  but  have  a certain 
delicacy  of  feature  which  renders  them  very  pleasing  objects ; 
and  the  affability  of  their  manners  heightens  the  agreeable- 
ness of  their  personal  attractions.  The  proverbial  Portu- 
guese jealousy  still  exists  among  the  many  in  Rio,  not  only 
to  mar,  if  not  to  deaden  their  own  social  pleasures,  but  also  to 
prevent  a stranger  from  forming  any  extended  acquaintance. 
During  our  stay  here,  however,  I have  formed  many  pleasant 
acquaintances  among  both  sexes,  and  the  moments  passed  in 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


85 


their  society  will  ever  be  remembered  as  some  of  the  pleas- 
antest of  my  life. 

A large  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  Rio  are  miserable 
half-naked  blacks  and  mulattoes.  Although  the  greater  num- 
ber of  these  are  slaves,  if  at  any  time  they  become  free,  they 
are  from  that  time,  nearly,  if  not  quite  the  white  man’s  equal. 
They  may  vote,  hold  slaves,  hold  civil  or  military  offices,  or 
even  become  members  in  the  House  of  Assembly.  The  de- 
gree of  familiarity  existing  between  the  whites  and  blacks  is 
disgusting  to  a newly  arried  American.  It  is  no  uncommon 
sight  to  behold  a refined,  intelligent  looking  white  lady  prom- 
enading the  streets,  arm  in  arm  with  a coarse  looking,  coarse 
appearing  negro. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  French  theatre.  This  dif- 
fers from  any  previously  seen  by  me  as  regards  the  internal 
arrangements,  and  closely  resembles  a German  bier  garden. 
At  short  intervals  about  the  parquet,  dress  circle,  and  galleries, 
tables  were  placed  and  chairs  set  around  them.  We  went 
in  and  seated  ourselves  at  one  of  these  tables,  and  hand  bills 
were  immediately  brought  us  by  pretty  waiter  girls.  On 
one  side  of  the  bills  was  the  programme  of  the  evenings’ 
performance,  and  on  the  other  a list  of  liquors,  cigars,  fruits, 
coffee,  and  cakes,  with  prices  of  the  several  articles  attached. 
We  called  for  coffee,  cakes,  and  cigars,  and  there  we  sat  in 
true  Brazilian  style,  sipping  our  coffee,  smoking,  and  convers- 
ing between  the  acts,  calling  for  a fresh  supply  of  articles 
when  required. 

The  piece  enacted  was  an  amusing  comedy,  and  although 
intelligible  to  no  one  of  the  party  but  myself,  yet  we  had 
many  a hearty  laugh  over  what  I could  understand,  and 
translate  to  them.  Several  songs  were  sung  with  piano  ac- 
companiment, and  there  was  a great  deal  of  dancing,  separate- 
ly and  intermixed  with  the  play,  that  all  could  understand  and 
appreciate.  The  Brazilians  appear  to  be  very  fond  of  ballet 


86 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


dancing,  judging  by  the  manner  in  which  every  such  dance 
was  encored. 

Another  day  when  we  were  on  shore,  we  decided  to  pay  a 
visit  to  Praya  Grande,  which  is  opposite  to  the  city,  across 
the  elliptic  bay,  and  about  three  miles  distant.  Having  pro- 
cured tickets  at  the  office  near  the  landing,  we  stepped  aboard 
the  ferry-boat  and  after  a pleasant  ride  of  fifteen  minutes, 
we  were  brought  to  the  opposite  side.  Arriving  there,  we 
found  Praya  Grande  to  fully  answer  our  expectations  in  re- 
gard to  elegance  of  mansions  and  beauty  of  surroundings  ; 
a happy  commingling  of  city  and  country.  There  were  large 
palatial  mansions,  situated  in  large,  beautiful  gardens,  fairly 
embowered  with  trees  ; wide  streets,  smooth  and  beautifully 
shaded,  and  everything,  in  short,  as  lovely  and  charming  as 
one  could  wish. 

One  garden  above  all  others  attracted  our  attention^ 
not  only  on  account  of  its  size  and  beauty,  but  also  because 
we  there  saw  growing  many  home  plants  and  flowers.  From 
the  gardener,  who  was  standing  near  the  gate,  we  obtained 
permission  to  take  a walk  about  the  grounds.  While  com- 
menting upon  a bed  of  strawberries,  many  of  which  were 
then  ripe,  a pleasant,  middle  aged  lady  came  along  and  asked 
us  if  we  did  not  belong  to  the  American  man-of-war  in  the 
harbor.  We  replied  that  we  did.  She  told  us  that  both  her 
husband  and  herself  were  from  Connecticut,  and  many  of  her 
friends  were  now  resident  there.  They  left  the  states  about 
ten  years  ago  and  had  not  returned  since  ; but  they  hoped  to 
go  there  again  ere  long.  She,  seeing  the  longing  looks  that  we 
were  casting  toward  the  strawberry -bed,  aske d us  if  we  would 
like  to  have  some  strawberries.  We  replying  that  we  would 
very  much  indeed,  she  said  that  if  we  would  wait  a few  min- 
utes she  would  have  some  prepared  for  us.  In  the  meantime 
she  invited  us  to  seats  in  a charming  little  summer-house, 
near  by,  and  then  entered  into  conversation  with  me,  I hav- 
ing told  her  that  I too  was  from  Connecticut.  In  about  half 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


87 


an  hour,  a servant  came,  bearing  a dish  of  strawberries 
smothered  in  cream,  accompanied  by  another  bearing  short- 
cakes and  a pitcher  of  milk.  We  then  had  such  a feast  as 
we  had  not  tasted  for  many  a day,  and  one  which  we  enjoyed 
as  only  those  can  that  have  been  similarly  situated.  About 
five  o’clock  we  told  her  that  we  must  return.  She  picked, 
arranged,  and  presented  each  of  us  a beautiful  bouquet  of  flow- 
ers, and  invited  us  to  make  her  another  visit  should  we  re- 
main long  enough  in  Rio  Janeiro  to  come  ashore  again.  She 
said  that  it  was  so  seldom  she  ever  saw  one  from  Con- 
necticut, or  from  the  United  States  even,  that  she  prized  such 
visits  very  highly,  ever  considering  them  as  a great  favor  to 
herself.  We  told  her  that  we  had  not  enjoyed  ourselves  so 
much  since  we  left  home,  and  should  by  no  means  deny  our- 
selves the  great  pleasure  of  another  visit  to  her,  if  practica- 
ble, especially  when  we  had  every  reason  to  believe  that  our 
visit  would  be  received  with  pleasure. 

A visit  to  the  Navy  yard  reveals  no  great  wronder  or  at- 
traction, with  the  exception  of  the  dry  dock,  which  is  spoken 
of  as  being  the  finest  in  the  world.  It  is  about  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  long,  and  seventy -five  feet  wide,  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock.  On  the  stocks  and  nearly  ready  for  launch- 
ing, when  I visited  the  yard  a month  ago,  were  two  iron  clads, 
the  first  attempts  of  the  Brazilians  at  establishing  an  iron 
clad  navy.  About  a week  ago  one  of  them  was  completed 
and  started  for  the  seat  of  war  in  Paraguay.  The  Brazil- 
ians have  great  hopes  of  these  iron  clads,  but  they  appear 
to  me  to  be  weak  opponents  for  our  monitors.  Their  finish- 
ing shops  for  shot  and  shell  were  much  better  conducted  than 
I expected  to  find  them;  but  then  we,  with  ideas  that  there 
are  no  people  in  the  world  equal  to  the  Americans,  would 
attribute  this  circumstance  to  the  fact  that  the  superinten- 
dents of  the  shops  are  Americans. 

In  traversing  any  of  the  more  fashionable  streets  of  Rio, 
one  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  great  number  of  blinds  that  are 


88 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


left  partially  open,  and  mirrors  placed  upon  the  inside  of  them. 
For  a long  time  I was  puzzled  to  know  for  what  purpose  this 
•was  done,  and  at  last,  I requested  a friend  to  tell  me.  He 
said  that  the  mirrors  were  so  placed  that  the  occupants  of  the 
rooms  could  perceive  whoever  was  passing  in  the  streets,  or 
what  was  being  done  there.  If  one  wanders  from  the  busi- 
ness part,  to  the  rear  of  the  city,  he  will  find  many  pleasant 
squares  containing  public  fountains,  and  will  see  the  humble 
dwelling  of  the  lowly  side  by  side  with  the  palatial  mansion 
of  the  noble  and  w<  althy.  The  former  are  seldom  more 
than  one  story  high,  and  the  windows  are  screened  by  lattice 
blinds  which  swing  at  the  top.  Upon  pleasant  evenings, 
these  blinds  will  be  seen  opened  a little  way,  and  in  the  cov- 
erts, bashful  lovers  who  meet  there  to  whisper  their  soft  en- 
dearments. This  is  said  to  be  the  custom  for  all  their  court- 
ships, a custom  derived  from  the  mother  country.  The  man- 
sions of  the  noble  and  wealthy  are  usually  surrounded  by 
high,  strong  walls,  the  entrances  to  which  are  secured  by  mas- 
sive double  doors.  The  Portuguese  jealousy  of  females  may 
there  be  observed  in  the  closed  blinds  and  iron  bars  for  the 
windows. 

On  another  excursion  to  the  city,  we  found  all  the  churches, 
stores,  and  houses  decorated.  It  was  a religious  holiday. 
All  were  attired  in  their  best  garments,  and  all  places  of  busi- 
ness were  closed.  Before  the  principal  churches  in  the  eve- 
ning, there  was  a very  fine  display  of  fireworks,  prominent 
in  wrhich  were  rockets  and  fire-balloons.  The  people  appear 
to  attach  supernatural  power  to  these  fireworks,  as  aiding  in 
the  banishment  of  evil  spirits,  and  there  is  always  a grand 
display  on  every  church  holiday,  or  celebration  of  high  mass. 

Once  while  lying  here  we  filled  our  tanks  with  shore  water. 
The  consequence  was  that  several  of  the  crew  were  taken 
sick  and  some  of  them  have  not  yet  recovered  from  the  ef- 
fects of  the  change  of  water.  It  is  a well  known  fact  that 
much  sickness  and  many  deaths  are  occasioned  by  the  change 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


89 


of  water  in  going  from  one  country  to  another.  Probably 
there  is  no  water  in  the  world  as  pure  or  as  healthy  as  good 
condensed  water.  Not  only  this,  but  when  a vessel  con- 
denses all  the  water  used  by  her  crew,  it  obviates  all  the  sick- 
ness occasioned  by  the  change  in  going  from  one  country  to 
another. 

After  we  had  been  at  Rio  upwards  of  two  months,  it  was 
one  morning  called  to  mind  that  we  had  not  “ moored  ship,” 
and  that  it  would  be  an  excellent  idea  to  do  so.  This  is  done 
by  dropping  the  anchors  some  distance  apart  and  then  attach- 
ing both  of  the  cables  to  a large  swivel,  so  that  when  the 
ship  swings  around  with  the  tide,  the  chains  do  not  become 
twisted.  The  principal  object  in  mooring  ship,  is  that  she 
may  take  up  less  room  in  swinging,  than  when  lying  with  a 
single  anchor  down.  It  is  usually  considered  a very  short 
and  simple  performance,  but  whether  we  had  no  superintend- 
ent, or  whether  we  had  too  many,  I can’t  say,  I only  know, 
that  we  made  a long  tedious  job  of  it,  using  up  the  greater 
portion  of  the  day. 

For  a visit  to  Botafogo  a number  of  us  set  out  a few  days 
ago  on  foot.  We  arrived  there  after  an  hour’s  delightful 
walk,  having  stopped  frequently  to  examine  and  admire 
the  unusual  beauties  of  a residence  and  its  surroundings. 
It  was  a charming  sunny  morning,  and  the  undulating 
smooth  road,  now  skirting  the  water  side,  and  thence  winding 
around  the  base  of  a range  of  hills,  was  hemmed  in  by  the 
hedges  of  gardens,  or  lofty  walls  of  masonry,  above  which 
hung  the  rich  fruits  of  palmate  and  other  tropical  trees  with 
flowers  of  the  jessamine  and  honeysuckle,  scenting  the  air. 
At  Botafogo  many  of  the  wealthy  business  men  of  Rio  have 
their  residences,  and  some  of  them  are  almost  perfect  para- 
dises, with  their  beautiful  and  extensive  grounds  attached. 

A short  distance  from  the  principal  quarter  of  Botafogo, 
the  Botanic  Garden  is  located.  This  comprises  from  seventy- 
five  to  one  hundred  acres  plotted  off  into  groves  and  flower- 
5* 


90 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


beds,  artificial  mounds,  and  broad  avenues  meeting  at  a pretty- 
fountain  near  the  center.  In  the  grove  were  the  dark  olive, 
the  crotons,  the  crescentia,  which  bears  a great  calabash  ; the 
carambola,  which  bears  an  excellent  arid  fruit,  the  cinnamon, 
red  pepper,  and  clove  trees.  The  avenues  are  shaded  by  the 
dense  foliage  of  the  mango  tree ; the  bamboo  and  plantain  ; 
and  the  coffee,  orange,  and  other  trees  peculiar  or  indigenous 
to  South  America.  But  in  the  variety  of  flowers,  or  in  their 
beauty  and  rarity,  the  garden  that  we  visited  at  Porto  Praya 
would  fully  equal,  if  not  surpass  this  place.  The  scenery  all 
around  is  remarkably  picturesque  and  beautiful,  and  the  effect 
is  heightened  by  the  shaft  of  the  Coocovado  which  rises  im- 
mediately behind  the  town  of  Botafogo. 

There  has  been  so  much  else  to  write  about,  of  apparently 
more  interest,  that  I have  entirely  neglected  to  speak  of  the 
repairs  which  were  entered  upon  soon  after  our  arrival  here, 
and  have  been  the  occasion  of  our  long  stay.  Upon  an  ex- 
amination of  the  engine,  a crack  some  seven  or  eight  inches 
in  length  was  discovered  in  one  of  the  crank-pins.  For  a 
month  the  engineers  were  engaged  in  putting  a band  around 
it,  and  making  some  other  necessary  repairs.  We  have  had 
a bridge  put  up  just  abaft  the  smoke  stack,  and  resting  on 
the  bulwarks.  This  I think  is  a decided  improvement. 

Another  improvement  was  the  extension  of  the  poop  about 
five  feet,  so  as  to  cover  the  wheel,  and  underneath  having  a 
little  room  on  each  side ; one  for  the  armory,  and  the  other 
for  the  signal  locker.  This  also  makes  a good  shelter  for  the 
orderly  on  watch,  and  then  gives  us  more  room  to  work  the 
gun. 

This  was  finished  about  three  weeks  ago,  and  the  carpen- 
ters have  since  been  busy  in  repairing  the  decks,  getting  new 
spars  in  place  of  those  destroyed  or  injured  by  the  gale,  etc. 

We  have  had  a great  number  of  desertions  since  we  have 
been  lying  here,  more  than  thirty  in  all,  and  but  two  or  three 
of  the  runaways  have  been  captured.  With  a few  excep- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


91 


lions,  those  that  have  deserted  were  excellent  seamen,  among 
the  best  that  we  had  in  the  ship.  These  we  find  make  quite 
a lessening  in  our  effective  force. 

To-morrow  we  leave  here  for  Cape  Town,  so  that  to-night 
we  will  look  upon  the  lighting  up  of  the  convents  on  the  hills, 
and  of  the  churches  on  the  oblong  plain  beneath,  of  rockets, 
and  other  signs  of  a religious  holiday  ; hear  the  sweet  sounds 
from  the  bands  of  the  English,  French,  and  Portuguese  frig- 
ates near  us,  and  hear  the  many  other  evening  attractions 
and  pleasures  of  our  stay  at  Rio,  for  the  last  time  in  many 
months  or  years. 


92 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  X. 


My 


IT.  S.  S.  Wachtjsett,  Simons’  Bay,  South  Africa, 

October  2,  1865. 

Dear  R. : 


“ All  hands  unmoor ! unmoor ! 

Hark  to  the  hoarse,  but  welcome  sound, 
Startling  the  seaman’s  sweetest  slumbers. 
The  groaning  capstan’s  turning  round. 

The  cheerful  fife’s  enlivening  numbers ; 
And  lingering  idlers  join  the  brawl, 

And  merry  ship-boys  swell  the  call, 

All  hands  unmoor ! unmoor !” 


Nearly  all  had  become  wearied  with  our  long  stay  at  Rio, 
so  that  when  the  orders  were  given  to  get  under  way  Sep- 
tember 20th,  all  sprang  to  the  call  with  alacrity,  and  cheer- 
fully assisted  in  all  the  many  necessary  preparations.  Early 
in  the  morning  two  of  our  number  bade  us  “good  bye,”  and 
were  transferred  to  the  Susquehanna,  there  to  await  transpor- 
tation to  the  States,  their  period  of  enlistment  having  expired. 
It  was  nearly  5 p.  m.  when  the  shrill  whistles  and  gruff  voices 
of  the  boatswain  and  his  three  mates  piped  “ all  hands  up 
anchor.”  Up  from  below,  through  every  ‘hatch-way,  like 
trains  of  ants,  to  their  several  stations  came  the  interminable 
throng, — all  longing  to  be  at  sea  once  more. 

The  shrill  whistle  piped  again  on  deck,  and  from  stem  to 
stern  the  word  was  passed,— the  fifes  and  violin  struck  up 
a well-timed  quickstep — and  tramp,  tramp,  stepped  the  centi- 
peded  train  over  the  deck.  In  a moment  the  helm  was  up, 
around  went  the  propeller,  and  the  ship  moved  slowly  and 
gracefully  down  the  Bay  from  her  anchorage,  dipping  her 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


93 


colors  in  return  to  those  of  the  vessels  she  passed,  and  to  the 
playing  of  Hail  Columbia  by  their  bands.  As  soon  as  we 
had  steamed  out  of  port,  so  that  we  could  shape  our  course, 
the  fires  were  put  out,  the  clanking  of  the  engine  ceased, 
and  sail  was  made  on  the  ship. 

Our  month’s  run  from  Rio  Janeiro  to  the  Cape  was  char- 
acterized by  strong,  favorable  winds,  no  very  severe  storms 
nor  rough  .seas,  and  everything  considered,  it  was  as  speedy 
and  pleasant  a run  as  we  could  reasonably  expect.  The  only 
damages  done  to  the  ship  was  the  springing  of  one  top-mast 
and  carrying  away  the  jib-boom. 

The  man  that  we  received  in  exchange  for  the  two  we  trans- 
ferred to  the  Susquehana,  falls  far  short  of  filling  the  place  of 
one  of  them.  He  is  a short,  thick-set,  thick-headed,  ill-featured 
Dutchman,  and  decidedly  the  meanest  man  in  the  “Guard.”  As 
soon  as  he  came  on  board  he  was  made  acting-corporal,  and 
the  first  night  he  commenced  operations  by  reporting  three 
or  four  of  the  guard  for  some  trifling  misdemeanor.  Report- 
ing one  of  our  own  number  is  never  done  unless  absolutely 
necessary.  So  when  he  commenced  in  reporting  every  one 
for  unnoticeable  misdemeanors,  discord  and  enmity  were  soon 
created  in  the  “Guard.”  Our  number  is  small  in  comparison 
with  the  rest  of  the  ship’s  company,  and  any  division  is  to  be 
feared  and  avoided  as  much  as  possible.  It  seems  strange 
that  we  should  have  allowed  such  an  one  to  have  brought 
discord  into  the  “ Guard.”  And  yet  he  did  bring  it.  An- 
other example*  of  the  maxim — “ Great  results  ofttimes  spring 
from  trifling  causes.”  One  night  he  reported  a man  for 
sleeping  on  post,  and  about  half  an  hour  later  he  himself  was 
found  asleep  on  watch.  So  some  of  the  crew  fastened  a hal- 
yard to  his  feet,  and  then  from  the  other  side  of  the  deck, 
they  triced  him  up  by  the  heels,  and  left  him  hanging  about 
six  feet  from  the  deck.  He  was  half  an  hour  in  releasing 
himself  from  this  predicament,  and.  was  fortunate  in  not  being 
discovered  by  the  officers. 


94 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


As  captain’s  orderly  I had  enjoyed  all  the  privileges  that  I 
wished,  and  was  so  well  satisfied  with  my  duties  that  I was 
not  pleased  with  the  promotion  to  corporal,  and  duty  in  the 
gangway  assigned  me.  But  there  was  no  use  in  remonstrat- 
ing, so  I accepted  of  the  change  with  the  best  possible  grace. 
To  be  sure  I have  more  leisure,  and  there  are  some  other  ad- 
vantages gained,  but  still,  in  my  estimation,  the  cons  more 
than  outnumber  the  pros. 

On  this  passage  my  wardrobe  was  found,  upon  examination, 
to  be  in  such  a condition  as  to  compel  me  to  relinquish  all 
other  duties  and  pleasures,  and  to  devote  several  days  to 
mending  and  repairing.  At  first  it  was  slow  and  awkward 
work,  but,  by  patience,  and  spurred  on  by  necessity,  I soon 
became  quite  expert  with  the  needle.  I can  safely  say  now, 
that  I do  not  prick  my  fingers  more  than  once  a minute,  on 
an  average,  and  quite  often  am  not  compelled  to  do  my  work 
over  the  second  time.  What  prizes  we  will  all  be  in  the 
matrimonial  market  when  we  return  home — able  to  cook, 
wash,  sew,  and  do  many  other  things  to  lighten  the  labors  of 
all  the  future  Mrs. ! — but  I will  not  anticipate.  Yes,  neces- 
sity has  compelled  me  to  learn  many  things  which  I will 
find  useful  and  advantageous  in  after  life.  How  often  have 
I seen  the  time,  when,  if  I had  known  how  to  sew,  some 
sorrow  or  mortification  would  have  been  spared  me ! 

One  personage  we  have  on  board  which  I think  I have 
not  yet  introduced  to  you  ; that  is  a large,  dog-faced  monkey, 
which  we  purchased  at  St.  Catherine.  He  is  decidedly  the 
most  knowing,  and  most  comical  monkey  that  I ever  saw,  and 
scarcely  a day  passes  but  that  he  is  the  occasion  of  much 
mirth  to  the  crew.  The  sailors  have  taught  him  so  that  he 
will  sit  up  and  smoke  a pipe,  dance,  and  perform  an  immense 
number  of  interesting  feats  and  tricks.  Whenever  the  crew 
are  all  aft  on  the  quarter  deck,  at  muster,  then  Jocko  is  in 
his  glory.  He  will  go  down  on  the  berth  deck,  and  woe  be 
to  the  ditty-box  that  is  left  unfastened,  or  anything  that  he 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


95 


can  infiire  left  within  his  reach,  for  he  will  surely  seize  upon 
it.  He  tried  his  hand  at  bread-making  for  us  several  times, 
(a  pan  of  flour  having  been  left  by  the  cook  where  he  could 
get  at  it,)  to  the  ruin  of  the  flour  and  the  injury  of  whatever 
might  be  lying  near.  In  Rio  we  procured  some  little 
Guinea-pigs  which  Jocko  evidently  thought  were  going  to 
supplant  him  in  the  affections  of  the  crew.  Instead  of  killing 
or  injuring  them,  which  he  easily  could  have  done,  he  used 
to  carry  them  up  to  the  pendant-tackle  block,  when  he  would 
leave  them  and  then  descend  to  the  deck  and  watch  for  them 
to  fall.  Fortunately  all  were  rescued,  with  one  exception, 
before  his  intentions  were  fully  carried  out. 

At  other  times  poor  Jocko  has  been  the  medium  of  com- 
municating the  dislike  which  the  crew  had  for  certain  officers. 
Orf  this  passage  a great  deal  of  merriment  and  no  small  ex- 
citement was  created,  by  dressing  him  up  in  a uniform  re- 
sembling S.’s,  and  then  sending  him  aft  to  where  he  was 
standing  in  the  midst  of  a group  of  other  officers.  They 
greeted  his  advent  by  a roar  of  laughter,  while  S.  was  fairly 
purple  with  rage.  Immediately  he  rushed  into  the  cabin 
and  reported  the  circumstance  to  the  Captain,  saying  that  it 
was  the  greatest  insult  he  ever  had  in  his  life,  comparing 
him  to  a monkey ! The  Captain  ordered  Mr.  Philip  to  find 
out  who  the  perpetrators  were,  but  all  his  investigations  were 
without  success.  No  one  knew  anything  about  it.  So  the 
affair  was  dismissed  with  orders  that  the  uniform  should  be 
altered,  and  that  nothing  of  this  kind  should  occur  again.  It 
will  be  a long  time,  however,  before  the  affair  will  be  hushed 

up,  and  many  will  yet  be  the  hearty  laugh  had  about  “ S 

and  Jocko.” 

For  the  past  two  or  three  months,  the  sergeant  has  been 
at  work  upon  a duo  of  American  citizens  of  African  descent, 
training,  or  attempting  to  train  them  for  the  “ ship’s  drum- 
mer and  fifer.”  By  dint  of  explaining,  coaxing,  promising, 


96 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


threatening,  together  with  sundry  raps  with  the  drunSlticks, 


“A  spur 

To  prick  the  sides  of  his  intent,” 

he  at  length  forced  so  much  music  through  their  unusually 
thick  skulls,  that  he  pronounced  them  far  enough  advanced 
to  beat  to  quarters.  Accordingly  three  or  four  evenings  ago 
they  were  brought  up  to  make  their  debut.  They  played  so 
near  the  appropriate  air  that  about  one  out  of  every  ten 
knew  what  they  meant,  and  went  to  their  quarters,  but  the 
rest  stood  and  looked  at  them  in  blank  amazement,  wonder- 
ing what  in  the  world  they  were  attempting  to  do,  or  what 
was  meant.  Finally  a resort  to  the  boatswain’s  whistle  was 
necessary,  before  all  came  to  their  quarters.  After  retreat 
was  beaten,  Mr.  Philips  called  all  hands  aft  on  the  quarter- 
deck to  muster,  and  told  them  that  whenever  they  should 
hear  that  noise,  again  we  might  know  that  it  was  for  quarters. 

Friday,  October  20,  18G5,  will  ever  remain  a white  day 
in  my  geographical  calendar,  for  it  was  then  that  I,  for 
the  first  time,  rested  my  eyes  upon  that  black  continent  “whose 
people  have  given  the  world  more  political  and  religious 
trouble  than  their  physical  strength  has  ever  given  it  aid.” 
The  truth  of  this  remark  is  painfully  evident  in  the  experi- 
ences of  our  own  country.  It  was  then  also  a white  day 
beyond  this  geographical  wonder,  in  that  after  thirty  days  of 
sea  rolling,  and  ship  dietetics,  we  were  to  have  the  quiet  re- 
pose of  port,  to  taste  shore  fruits,  and  once  again  to  place 
foot  on  good  solid  mother  earth. 

When  I went  on  deck  this  morning,  there  were  the  great 
rocky  buttresses,  and  ragged  mountains  of  South  Africa,  jut- 
ting away  out  into  the  sea,  which  rolled  in  upon  them  Irom 
the  South  Pole,  or,  at  least,  the  Antarctic  continent.  Table 
Mountain,  and  all  the  individualized  and  named  peaks  of  this 
renowned  Cape  were  in  sight  as  we  ran  along  the  shores  of 
‘‘  Good  Hope,”  rounded  its  promontory  and  entered  the  smooth 
green  waters  of  Simon’s  Bay.  There  are  a few  neat  looking 
English  houses  clustered  on  the  beach,  at  the  foot  of  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


97 


gray,  naked  mountain  which  towered  behind  them.  About 
noon  we  cast  our  anchor  in  front  of  Simon’s  Town,  a pretty, 
quiet,  little  place  of  about  one  thousand  inhabitants. 

The  anchor  down,  then  came  all  the  bustle  and  prepara- 
tion of  an  arrival  in  port.  In  full  uniform,  with  everything 
bright  and  shining,  we  were  ordered  to  hold  ourselves  in 
readiness  to  be  paraded  at  a moment’s  notice  to  receive  any 
distinguished  visitor  that  might  come  on  board.  The  boats 
were  lowered  and  Mr.  Grove  despatched  to  wait  upon  the 
authorities  and  arrange  about  the  salutes.  Various  boats 
were  hurrying  off  to  us.  One  was  that  of  the  health  officer 
and  harbor-master,  before  whose  visit  we  must  not  communi- 
cate with  the  shore  ; another,  with  the  United  States  flag 
flying,  brought  the  American  Consul ; a third,  with  a pen- 
non in  the  bow  and  an  English  ensign  in  the  stern,  brought 
us  a Lieutenant  from  the  English  senior  officer’s  ship — the 
Valorous. 

The  salutes  over,  the  string  of  small  boats,  which  had 
been  lying  astern  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  guns,  now  pull 
up  to  the  gangway,  and  the  occupants,  each  striving  to  get 
up  before  his  neighbor,  climb  up  the  ship’s  side,  and  step  on 
board.  There  are  provision  dealers,  grocers,  tailors,  bum- 
boatmen,  washerwomen,  all  zealous  to  show  their  cards  and 
recommendations  from  previous  ships  and  secure  the  patron- 
age of  the  various  messes.  To  the  ship’s  company  the  bum- 
boatman  is  the  most  useful  of  these  merchants.  He  may  be 
all  in  one.  His  boat  is  their  corner  grocery  store.  At  meal 
hours  he  comes  alongside  the  ship  with  his  fresh  fruits,  fresh 
bread,  cooked  fish  and  meats,  and  a tempting  variety  of  arti- 
cles, peculiar  to  the  port  in  which  the  ship  is  lying.  He  is  a 
convenience,  also,  for  communicating  with  the  shore,  making 
purchases,  bringing  off  small  packages  and  such  like  things. 
All  avail  themselves  of  his  services,  preferring  them  to  the  ifs 
and  andsy  the  mighty  concession  which  so  often  attends  the 
getting  ashore,  and  nine  chances  out  of  ten  not  getting  ashore 


98 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


when  the  article  is  most  required.  Of  course,  a man  in  such 
close  association  with  the  people  of  the  ship,  must  have  a 
certain  amount  of  reputable  character,  or  else  he  may  do 
much  mischief  by  smuggling  liquor,  and  other  important  ar- 
ticles on  board.  The  choosing  of  a bumboatman,  Mr.  Philip 
has  ever  left  to  the  sergeant  and  master-at-arms.  On  this 
occasion  a.  tall,  slender,  neatly- dressed  Malay  with  a red 
handkerchief  around  his  head  won  their  favor. 

Simon’s  Bay  owes  its  existence  as  a place  of  note  to  the 
fact  that  it  is  sheltered  from  those  fierce  south-east  winds 
which  roll  the  Atlantic  in  before  Table  Bay  and  Cape  Town, 
where,  from  May  to  September  it  is  very  dangerous  for  ves- 
sels. It  is  the  site  of  the  government  dockyard  and  the  place 
for  the  anchorage  of  the  government  shipping.  Near  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor'  is  a small  island  on  which  stands  a 
lighthouse.  How  long  we  will  remain  here  I can’t  say,  but 
Dame  Rumor  hath  it,  that  in  a few  days  we  are  to  go  around 
to  Cape  Town.  But  she  is  a fickle  jade,  and  not  always  to 
be  relied  upon. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


99 


LETTER  XI, 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Cape  Town,) 
South  Africa,  November  22,  1865.  j 

My  Dear  R. : ^ 

Dame  Rumor  was  right.  We  remained  but  a few  days  at 
Simon’s  Bay  and  then  came  around  to  Cape  Town. 

We  had  one  pleasant  occupation  while  we  were  lying  at 
Simon’s  Bay,  and  that  was,  fishing.  A line  over  the  side 
with  a bit  of  pork  attached  for  bait,  and  an  abundance  of 
mackerel,  salmon,  and  two  or  three  other  varieties  of  fish 
would  reward  the  fisherman.  While  on  watch  in  the  even- 
ing, I used  to  catch  fish  enough  for  breakfast  for  our  mess* 
At  the  same  time  with  mine,  there  would  be  lines  out  all  the 
way  from  the  forecastle  to  the  poop,  and  nought  was  heard 
but  the  exultant  cry  of  some  fortunate  fisherman,  the  thump 
of  the  fish  as  it  was  detached  from  the  howk  and  cast  on  deck, 
and  the  flapping  of  it  as  it  lay  there.  Upon  our  first  arrival 
the  harbor-master  placed  in  the  Surgeon’s  hands  the  follow- 
ing printed  paper : 

NOTICE. 

“ There  is  a fish  in  Simon’s  Bay,  commonly  called  ‘ Toad 
Fish.’  It  is  about  six  inches  long,  back  dark,  with  deep 
black  stripes ; belly,  white  with  faint  yellow  patches.  It 
swims  near  the  surface,  and  is  a constant  attendant  upon  the 
lines  employed  in  fishing.  When  taken  from  the  water  it 
puffs  out  considerably.  Should  any  portion  of  this  fish  be 
eaten,  death  ensues  in  a few  minutes.” 

From  curiosity  to  see  the  fish  we  all  tried  to  catch  one  and 
at  last  were  successful.  We  found  it  to  exactly  answer  to 
the  description  given. 


100 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


We  remained  at  Simon’s  Bay  long  enough  to  make  some 
repairs  on  the  top-mast  and  take  in  coal,  and  on  Friday,  Oc- 
tober 27th,  we  came  around  to  Cape  Town.  The  sailing 
distance  is  about  forty  miles,  and  we  steamed  it  in  a little 
more  than  three  hours,  beating  the  Valorous’  time  by  about 
half  an  hour.  We  anchored  about  a mile  from  the  shore. 

Cape  Town,  the  capital  of  Southern  Africa,  and  the  most 
important  European  settlement  on  the  continent,  is  situated 
near  the  isthmus  of  a peninsula,  formed  by  Simon’s  Bay  on 
the  east,  and  Table  Bay  on  the  west,  on  which  last  the  city 
itself  is  built.  Immediately  behind,  rises  precipitously  Table 
Mountain,  3,582  feet  high,  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
consisting  chiefly  of  steep  cliffs  of  naked  schist  and  granite 
The  Devil’s  Hill,  3,315,  and  Lion’s  Head,  2,160  feet  high, 
rise  on  each  side.  The  triple  summit  forms  a very  conspicu- 
ous object  from  the  sea,  over  which  these  spots  command  a 
very  striking  prospect. 

Cape  Town  being  the  only  good  place  of  refreshment  for 
vessels  between  Europe  and  America  on  one  side,  and  India, 
China,  Japan,  and  Australia  on  the  other,  it  must  ever  re- 
main a place  of  great  commercial  importance.  The  country 
itself  affords  for  exportation,  wines,  hides,  skins*  and  a great 
variety  of  minor  articles.  The  population  is  estimated  at 
35,000.  It  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1650,  and  among 
the  European  residents  here,  the  Dutch  element  greatly  pre- 
dominates. In  the  war  between  England  and  Holland,  in 
1795,  Cape  Town  was  taken  by  the  English,  but  at  the  time 
of  the  peace,  it  was  restored.  Upon  the  renewal  of  hostili- 
ties, it  was  recaptured  in  1806,  and  since  that  time  it  has 
been  retained  by  the  English. 

Table  Bay  affords  accommodations  for  a great  amount  of 
shipping,  but  from  the  month  of  May  until  September  it 
affords  a very  insecure  anchorage,  being  exposed  to  the  fierce 
southeast  winds  which  prevail  at  that  season  of  the  year. 
During  the  Lgale  which  prevailed  last  May,  it  is  estimated 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


101 


that  seventy  ships  and  smaller  craft  were  beached,  and  up- 
wards of  fifty  lives  lost.  It  was  the  worst  gale  that  has  vis- 
ited Table  Bay  for  many  years.  They  are  at  present  engaged 
in  constructing  a breakwater  which  shall  protect  the  anchor- 
age from  those  long,  heavy  swells  which  make  the  anchorage 
so  dangerous  during  the  prevalence  of  those  gales  from  the 
southeast.  At  this  season  of  the  year  the  harbor  is  considered 
safe,  only  on  rare  occasions  some  little  annoyance  is  caused 
by  the  sea  being  so  rough,  that  boats  and  men  on  shore  are 
compelled  to  remain  there  several  days  before  they  can  re- 
turn to  their  ships.  One  time  when  the  Captain  and  a large 
number  of  the  crew  were  ashore,  our  bumboatman — pointing 
to  Table  Mountain — said  “ The  Minzenburg  has  its  cap  on, 
and  we  will  have  a storm  before  morning  from  the  southeast.,, 
And  so  we  did.  We  dropped  another  anchor,  and  our  com- 
munication with  the  shore  for  several  days  was  interrupted, 
difficult,  and  dangerous.  ’Tis  said,  that  whenever  the 
cloud  gathers  on  the  top  of  Table  Mountain,  the  wind  blows 
from  the  southeast.  The  winds  of  southern  Africa  are  very 
fitful,  changing  from  the  northwest  to  the  southeast  without 
a moment’s  warning,  more  than  the  gathering  of  the  cloud- 
cap  on  Table  Mountain. 

There  is  much  less  shipping  in  port  than  I expected  to 
find ; a couple  English  men-of-war,  half  a dozen  steamers, 
and  some  thirty  or  forty  merchant  vessels  and  smaller  craft 
are  about  all. 

In  its  general  appearance,  Cape  Town  reminds  one  of  a 
New  England  city,  and  viewed  from  the  ship,  nestled  as  it  is 
at  the  base  of  Table  Mountain,  with  its  many  church  spires 
and  fine  buildings,  the  substantial  farm-houses  on  the  outskirts, 
the  cars  arriving  and  departing,  all  together  form  a picture 
that  will  forever  remain  imprinted  upon  my  memory,  ever 
to  be  looked  at  with  pleasure. 

My  first  ramble  about  Cape  Town  was  when  on  general 
liberty  and  accompanied  by  one  of  the  orderlies.  After 


102 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


landing  and  purchasing  what  articles  we  wished,  we  set  out 
for  a stroll  about  the  city.  The  site  of  Cape  Town  is  an 
inclined  plane,  gently  sloping  from  northeast  to  southwest. 
Long  street,  extending  from  the  landing  in  a northwest  di- 
rection through  the  town,  is  the  principal  street.  It  is  very 
wide,  smooth,  and  level,  and  on  it  are  located  the  court  house, 
post  office,  and  principal  church,  hotel,  banks,  and  stores  in 
the  city.  Other  streets  run  parallel  with  this,  connected  with 
each  other  by  numerous  cross-streets.  After  walking  for  a 
short  time  we  agreed  that  it  was  much  easier  and  more  pleas- 
ant to  ride.  Accordingly  we  procured  a cab, — “ Hansoms  ” 
they  call  them,  light,  two-wheeled,  basket  concerns,  with  a 
seat  perched  up  behind  for  the  driver,  just  room  enough  for 
two,  and  very  easy,  very  nice  to  ride  in  we  found  them. 
Everything  arranged,  away  we  started  along  central  wharf, 
next  the  sea,  our  tirst  object  being  to  visit  the  Castle.  Our 
pony  was  smart  and  active,  and  we  were  brought  to  our  des- 
tination in  a short  time  after  we  started,  stopping  a few  min- 
utes at  the  barracks  on  our  way,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing 
the  soldiers  drill. 

The  Castle  is  an  ancient  Dutch  structure,  built  in  the  early 
years  of  the  colony.  It  has  heavy  stone  walls,  and  surround- 
ing it  is  a wide,  deep  moat  now  disused  and  filled  with  rushes 
and  long  grass.  We  passed  over  a draw  bridge,  entered 
through  an  archway  (which  is  closed  by  a heavy  iron  gate,) 
and  stood  in  a square  some  forty  or  fifty  feet  across.  Stone 
staircases  lead  to  the  top  of  the  walls  on  each  side,  one  of 
which  we  ascended  and  stood  on  the  summit  of  the  fortress. 
A few  heavy  ancient  pieces  of  ordnance  on  the  side  facing 
the  sea,  were  the  only  defenses.  Below  are  casemates  and 
beds  for  mortars.  Around  the  walls,  inside,  are  rooms  where 
the  married  soldiers,  their  wives  and  families,  of  the  troops 
stationed  at  Cape  Town  reside.  A guard  is  daily  detailed 
from  the  barracks  for  duty  here. 

u Will  you  not  come  up  to  the  barracks,”  said  a sergeant, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


103 


as  we  were  about  leaving.  After  a moment’s  hesitation  we 
replied  “ certainly,”  and  having  dismissed  our  carriage,  we 
went  there  with  him.  “ The  barracks  ” is  a fine  large  brick 
building  on  the  southern  outskirts  of  the  town.  It  is  situ- 
ated some  little  distance  back  from  the  street,  with  a small 
parade-ground  in  front,  within  the  walls,  and  a fine  large 
one  in  the  park,  between  them  and  the  street.  Entering,  we 
found  the  barracks  turned  topsy-turvy,  and  everything  at 
variance  with  the  usual  cleanliness  and  good  order  of  a mili- 
tary station.  “ You  must  not  wonder  at  not  finding  us  in 
better  order,”  said  the  sergeant,  “for  the  place  has  just  been 
vacated  by  the  ninth,  and  we,  the  tenth,  arrived  here  only  two 
days  ago;  but,  come  with  me  to  the  ‘Canteen’  and  taste  our 
Cape  wines.” 

We  had  heard  much  said  in  praise  of  the  Cape  wines,  and 
after  tasting  we  were  disposed  to  add  a good  word  of  our 
own.  Among  others,  there  were  placed  before  us  the  sev- 
eral kinds  of  Constancia,  which  had  been  presented  our  host 
by  his  friend — the  superintendent  of  the  vineyard.  Such 
delicate,  fine  flavored  wines  it  had  never  been  our  good  for- 
tune to  taste  before,  and  I fear  that  we  did  not  strictly  fol- 
low the  very  good  advice  of  Mr.  Bacchus,  who  says: 

“ Let  them  three  parts  of  wine  all  duly  season, 

With  nine  of  water,  who’d  preserve  their  reason; 

The  first  gives  health,  the  second  sweet  desire ; 

The  third  tranquility  and  sleep  inspire : 

These  are  the  wholesome  draughts  which  wise  men  please 
Who  from  the  banquet  home  returi>.in  peace. 

From  a fourth  measure  insolence  proceeds  : 

Uproar  a fifth  ; a sixth  wild  license  breeds  ; 

A seventh  brings  black  eyes  and  livid  bruises ; 

The  eighth  the  constable  next  introduces  ; 

Black  gall  and  hatred  lurk  the  ninth  beneath  ; 

The  tenth  is  madness,  arms  and  fearful  death. 

For  too  much  wine  poured  in  one  little  vessel, 

Trips  up  all  those  who  seek  with  it  to  wrestle.” 


104 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Mindful  to  some  degree  of  this  advice,  with  many  thanks 
to  our  English  friends  for  their  hospitality,  we  at  length  bade 
them  “ good-bye,”  and  continued  our  ramble  about  the  town. 

Nearly  opposite  the  barracks  is  the  new  market — a fine, 
large  brick  building,  built  and  owned  by  the  government. 
The  stalls  within  are  rented  from  the  government,  and  are, 
for  the  most  part,  tended  by  fine-looking,  buxom  English 
girls.  At  a subsequent  visit,  in  the  evening,  when  the  build- 
ing was  lighted  up,  I was  charmed  by  the  fine  display  of 
fruits,  wreaths,  flowers,  and  not  a little  by  the  fresh  beauty 
of  many  of  the  venders.  Captivated  partly  by  some  luscious 
looking  pears,  closely  resembling  our  Bartletts,  and  partly 
by  the  winning  looks  and  tone  of  the  vender  as  she  said  “ six- 
pence” to  my  inquiry  as  to  their  price,  I was  led  to  invest 
somewhat  largely  in  them,  and  I must  confess  that  I am 
unable  to  decide  which  I enjoyed  most,  the  pears  or  the  con- 
versation which  I had  with  the  vender  whilst  tasting  them. 
The  greater  number  of  these  venders  are  farmers’  daughters 
who  come  in  from  the  country  to  dispose  of  their  produce. 
Many  of  them  are  quite  intelligent,  witty  and  lady-like,  as 
well  as  quite  pretty  in  appearance. 

Leaving  the  market  and  ascending  the  eminence  at  the 
rear  of  the  town  on  which  the  signal-station  stands,  we  had  a 
splendid  bird’s-eye  view  of  Cape  Town.  Hardly  could  a 
checker-board  be  laid  out  with  more  regularity,  and  every- 
thing looked  so  exact,  so  neat  and  so  clean,  that  I stood  for  a 
long  time  enjoying  the  view.  Our  lodgings  for  the  night 
were  at  the  Central  Hotel,  kept  by  a middle-aged,  matronly 
English  lady  with  whom  I spent  several  hours  very  pleas- 
antly in  conversing.  We  had  as  good  accommodations  as 
one  could  desire,  and  I would  recommend  the  Central  Hotel 
to  any  one  visiting  Cape  Town,  and  desiring  “ food  and  lodg- 
ings.” In  the  evening  I went  out  with  one  of  the  gentle- 
men boarders  for  a walk,  and  to  make  some  calls.  As  a class, 
I was  far  better  pleased  with  the  English  than  I expected, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


105 


and  I have  formed  many  pleasant  acquaintances  among  them 
at  Cape  Town. 

The  head  of  Long  street  opens  upon  the  Government 
grounds,  through  which  extends  the  mile  long  oak  avenue, 
a thousand  old  oaks,  with  seats  underneath  for  visitors  to 
rest  and  refresh  themselves.  Upon  the  right,  a short  distance 
from  the  entrance,  in  a small  but  beautiful  garden,  (by  some 
called  the  Botanical,  by  others  the  Governor’s  garden,) 
stands  a fine  large  granite  building,  the  Colonial  Museum. 
This  I visited  several  times.  A hall  extends  through  the 
middle  of  the  building,  on  the  right  of  which  is  the  Public 
Library.  Opening  the  door  and  entering  this  room,  one  is 
confronted  by  a large,  splendid  oil  painting  of  Queen  Victoria. 
I never  visit  the  museum  without  stopping  awhile  and  enjoy- 
ing this  lovely  painting.  ’Tis  said  that  when  Prince  Alfred 
visited  Cape  Town  a few  years  ago,  after  an  absence  from 
home  of  several  years,  and  saw  this  portrait  of  his  mother, 
he  was  affected  to  tears,  so  true  to  life  is  it  executed.  On 
the  left  of  the  hall,  before  mentioned,  is  the  museum,  contain- 
ing stuffed  specimens  of  most  of  the  animals  of  South  Af- 
rica, and  also  a valuable  collection  of  shells  and  other  curios- 
ities peculiar  to  the  country.  Many  specimens  here  found 
are  not  in  any  other  museum  in  the  world.  Nearly  opposite 
the  museum  is  the  residence  of  the  Governor  of  the  Colony, 
Sir  Harry  Woodhouse. 

Here  many  of  us  have  made  a commencement  to  the  col- 
lection of  curiosities  which  we  intend  to  gather  this  cruise. 
I have  a few  shells,  porcupine  quills,  and  ostrich  eggs. 
There  are  many  other  articles  which  we  would  purchase  if 
the  ship  were  now  “ homeward  bound,”  but  which  we  think 
we  had  better  postpone  until  that  time. 

Of  the  incidents  of  our  stay  at  Cape  Town,  there  is  none 
that  will  be  remembered  with  more  pleasure  by  me  than  the 
excursion  which  a number  of  us  made  to  Wynberg,  a very 
pleasant  country  town  some  eighteen  or  twenty  miles  from 
6 


106 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Cape  Town.  Being  on  shore  one  day  on  an  invitation  to 
dine  with  an  English  gentleman,  and  after  dinner  having  a 
few  hours  to  invest  in  sightseeing,  we  concluded  that  the 
most  profitable  investment  would  be  an  excursion  to  Wynberg. 
We  went  thither  in  the  cars,  Wynberg  being  connected  with 
Cape  Town  by  railway.  A word  or  two  now  about  the  cars. 
They  are  some  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  in  length  and  divi- 
ded off  into  apartments  large  enough  to  accommodate  four 
persons  each.  According  to  position  and  furnishing  they  are 
denominated  first  and  second  class.  They  are  entered  by 
doors  on  the  sides,  and  as  soon  as  one  is  in  and  seated  the 
door  is  shut  and  fastened  on  the  outside  by  the  conductor  who 
rides  on  a little  platform  at  the  rear  of  the  car.  After  leav- 
ing Cape  Town,  our  road  for  two  or  three  miles  was  along 
the  beach,  through  pleasant,  fine  looking  farms,  with  neat, 
cosy  farm-houses  attached,  the  prospect  varied  here  and 
there  by  a wind  mill.  I will  here  mention  that  all  the  grind- 
ing done  at  the  Cape  is  by  wind  power,  there  being,  as  yet, 
do  steam  or  water  power  employed. 

After  riding  two  or  three  miles  along  the  beach,  the  road 
turned  oflf  into  the  interior,  running  all  the  way  through  fine 
farms  and  vineyards.  We  were  about  an  hour  in  going  to 
Wynberg,  stopping  at  five  stations  on  our  way  there.  From 
the  conductor  we  learned  that  we  would  have  two  hours  in 
which  to  look  about  the  place  before  the  train  returned ; A. 
and  myself,  therefore,  agreed  that  we  would  make  the  most 
of  those  two  hours.  We  took  our  way  over  a smooth,  wide, 
and  beautifully  shaded  road,  flanked  on  either  hand  by  ele- 
gant mansions  situated  in  wide,  beautifully  laid  out  grounds. 
We  walked  slowly,  that  we  might  the  better  enjoy  so  much 
beauty,  filling  our  souls  with  deep  copious  draughts,  so  that 
our  two  hours  passed  by  almost  like  some  beautiful  dream. 
Perhaps  you  may  think  that  I am  indulging  in  some  such 
ecstasies  as  are  incident  to  sailors  on  shore,  over  rural  charms 
and  prettily  embowered  houses ; but  I may  be  excused  in 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


107 


this,  for  the  beauties  of  Wynberg  are  of  no  common  order. 
We  extended  our  walk  a short  distance  out  from  the  village 
of  Wynberg  to  the  Constancia  estate  where  are  made  the 
celebrated  Constancia  wines.  The  vineyard  is  only  a few 
acres  in  extent,  but  there,  and  in  no  other  place,  is  raised  the 
genuine,  original  Constancia.  It  is  difficult  for  any  one  fa- 
miliar with  the  spirituous  taste  of  most  wines,  to  believe  that 
any  such  rich,  syrupy  fluids  can  be  produced  from  the  grape 
alone,  without  the  addition  of  sugar.  But  such  is  the  fact. 
The  grapes  are  permitted  to  almost  wilt  upon  the  vines  be- 
fore they  are  plucked,  and  to  facilitate  this  process  the  leaves 
are  thinned  from  the  vines.  One  accustomed  to  the  mode  of 
raising  grapes  with  us  would  scarcely  recognize  a Cape  of 
Good  Hope  vineyard. 

At  a little  distance,  he  could  hardly  distinguish  it  from  a 
potato  field,  the  vines  not  being  over  three  feet  high,  bunches 
of  fresh  shoots  supported  on  old  knotty,  venerable,  gray  look- 
ing stalks,  many  of  which  are  as  old  as  the  vineyard.  This 
is  about  two  hundred  years  of  age,  having  been  planted  by 
one  of  the  first  governors,  and  gallantly  called  after  his  wife, 
“ Constancia.” 

Leaving  Constancia  and  Wynberg  we  took  the  cars  and 
returned  to  Cape  Town.  We  had  agreeable  companions  on 
this  return  trip,  in  the  shape  of  an  old  English  merchant  and 
his  daughter,  a lovely  young  lady  about  sixteen  or  seventeen 
years  old.  A blunder  made  in  treading  upon  the  old  gen- 
tleman’s corns  introduced  us,  and  long  before  we  reached 
Cape  Town,  we  were  quite  good  friends,  and  had  invitations 
to  visit  them  at  their  home. 

Since  we  have  been  lying  here,  the  ship  has  been  fairly 
thronged  with  visitors,  ladies  and  gentlemen  coming  off  from 
shore  by  lighter  loads.  At  one  time  there  were  over  a hun- 
dred on  board,  all  anxious  to  see  an  American  man-of-war, 
which,  according  to  their  accounts,  is  quite  a curiosity  to  the 
Cape  Town  people.  There  were  so  many  visitors  that  al- 


108 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


most  every  one  of  the  crew  had  some  one  to  whom  he  was 
“ showing  the  ship.”  ’Twas  laughable  to  see  some  almost 
ignorant  land  lubber , conceited  enough  to  strive  to  explain 
the  managing  of  a vessel  in  a storm  or  the  working  of  the 
battery  in  action  to  one  who  doubtless  knew  much  more  about 
the  matter  than  he  himself  did.  But  the  most  laughable  in- 
cident of  all  was  the  explanation  of  the  rifle  gun  on  the  fore- 
castle, given  by  “ Jib  Bogue,”  and  how  he  expatiated  upon 
its  virtues,  to  a nicely  dressed,  intelligent,  and  fine  looking 
English  lady.  He  said,  “ Madam,  dis  am  de  rible  gun,  what 
carries  de  comical  skell,  which  kills  de  men,  cuts  up  de  rig- 

gin  and,  and kicks  up  de  d — 1 generally.”  To  have  seen 

the  astonishment  of  the  lady  and  to  have  heard  the  roar  of 
laughter  with  which  this  speech  was  received  would  have 
made  the  most  sedate  person  smile. 

Wednesday  evening,  November  16th,  the  officers  of  the 
Wachusett  gave  a ball  to  the  Cape  Town  people,  which 
proved  to  be  a very  successful,  very  fine  affair.  Guns  were  • 
run  forward,  awnings  spread,  the  quarter-deck  hung  round 
with  flags,  and  in  short,  transformed  into  a very  good  and 
tastefully  decorated  ball  room.  At  dark  the  deck  was  illumin- 
ated, and  before  seven  o’clock  the  guests  had  all  arrived  and 
the  dancing  commenced.  I cannot  speak  very  highly  of  the 
band,  but  the  music  that  they  discoursed  was  much  better 
than  would  be  expected  from  their  appearance.  There  were 
twenty-six  ladies  present,  about  the  same  number  of  civilians, 
three  or  four  English  officers,  and  a few  of  the  Hartford’s, 
beside  our  own.  When  the  dancing  commenced  aft,  sets 
were  also  formed  among  the  men  forward.  All  went  on 
nicely  for  a time,  but  too  frequent  visits  to  the  decanters  set 
out  on  the  ward-room  tables  and  free  of  access  to  all,  helped 
along  by  sundry  flasks  of  “ Cape  smoke,”  brought  off  from 
shore,  at  length  began  to  take  effect,  and  then  the  “ ruxions” 
commenced.  Several  not  satisfied  with  dancing  forward, 
must  go  aft  to  dance  with  the  ladies.  Being  refused  by  these 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


109 


a disturbance  was  made,  but  they  were  soon  confined,  and 
with  a few  slight  exceptions,  the  ball  passed  off  very  quietly 
and  very  pleasantly,  and  I think  gave  perfect  satisfaction  to 
all.  - • 

Friday,  November  10th,  another  was  added  to  the  number 
of  those  who  have  bid  home  and  friends  “good-bye”  forever. 
James  Ryan,  captain  of  the  forecastle,  died  that  day,  after 
a painful  and  lingering  illness.  He  was  buried  on  shore 
here  the  following  Sunday  with  military  honors.  He  was  a 
thorough  seaman,  a good  shipmate,  and  well  liked  by  both 
officers  and  men.  He  was  about  thirty  years  of  age,  a na- 
tive of  New  Bedford,  Massachusetts,  and  it  is  said,  leaves  no 
family. 

While  we  were  lying  at  Rio  the  master-at-arms,  and  one 
or  two  others,  accused  the  yeoman  to  the  executive  officer  of 
having  a candle  lighted  in  his  room  until  late  one  night,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  the  yeoman  was  drunk,  having  come  off 
from  shore  about  two  hours  previous.  Accordingly  he  was 
disrated  and  put  on  deck  as  a landsman.  After  this,  he 
grew  morose,  down-hearted,  and,  as  some  would  have  it,  “out 
of  his  head.”  One  day,  when  ashore  in  a boat,  he  deserted. 
Just  before  leaving  Rio  he  returned,  and  in  the  most  pitiable 
plight;  barefooted  and  bareheaded,  clothed  in  rags,  half 
starved,  and  without  a cent  in  his  pocket.  A few  days  after 
he  came  on  board,  his  feet  commenced  paining  him,  and 
showing  them  to  an  old  sailor,  who  had  spent  several  years 
in  Brazil,  he  was  asked  where  he  had  been  while  ashore. 
He  answered,  “ To  the  mines.”  The  man  then  told  him 
that  he  had  got  “jiggers,”  or  chegers,  in  his  feet  from  going 
barefoot  on  the  sand,  and  unless  they  were  taken  out  they 
would  multiply  indefinitely,  and  eventually  cause  his  death. 
So  to  work  he  went  and  cut  out  all  that  were  visible,  and  so 
continued  day  after  day,  until  they  were  all  gone.  The  jig- 
gers bear  a striking  resemblance  to  the  small  maggots  some- 
times found  in  cheese.  From  that  time  he  suffered  almost 


110 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


untold  torments,  being  confined  in  the  brig  and  sweat-boxes, 
having  his  head  shaved  and  blistered,  and  every  conceivable 
indignity  heaped  upon  him,  alike  by  officer  and  man.  A day 
or  two  ago  a gentleman  came  off  from  shore  and  inquired  for 
him.  After  a few  moments’  conversation  with  him,  he  went 
to  the  Captain  and  by  paying  the  amount  that  he  was  in- 
debted to  the  ship  procured  his  discharge  and  took  him  on 
shore  ; and  I,  with  a few  others,  was  glad  that  at  last  he  was 
free  from  his  tormentors.  I thought  at  the  time,  and  have 
since  been  convinced  that  the  master-at-arms  himself  lit  the 
candle  in  his  room  when  the  yeoman  was  asleep,  so  as  to  get 
him  reduced,  and  get  some  one  of  his  friends  appointed  in 
his  place.  In  this  undertaking  he  succeeded  but  too  well. 

I have  narrated  this  circumstance  to  you,  my  dear  R.,  in 
order  that  you  may  see  what  men  there  are  in  the  navy,  and 
to  what  extent  the  jealousies  and  envyings  of  men  will  some- 
times carry  them,  trampling  under  foot  every  feeling  or 
sense  of  honor,  respect,  or  pity.  This  was  done,  too,  against 
a ship  mate,  who  ought  in  these  respects  to  be  second  only 
to  relatives  and  friends. 

The  morning  of  the  same  day  that  the  ball  took  place, 
the  U.  S.  S.  Hartford  came  into  port  bearing  the  flag  of  Rear 
Admiral  Henry  H.  Bell,  and  now  on  her  way  to  join  the 
Asiatic  squadron,  over  which  she  is  to  be  flag-ship.  I have 
heard  that  the  Admiral  is  not  very  much  pleased  with  our 
long  stay  at  Rio  and  Cape  Town,  and  that  we  had  not  joined 
the  squadron  on  the  station  ere  this.  His  first  order  was 
that  we  should  be  ready  for  sea  in  twenty-four  hours ; but 
he  afterwards  extended  the  time  to  six  days,  so  that  to-mor- 
row we  expect  to  leave  here.  The  Hartford  is  one  of  the 
class  designated  as  “ second-rates,”  of  something  over  1,800 
tons  burden,  ship-rigged  and  carrying  a battery  of  twenty- 
one  heavy  guns.  Everything  about  her  looks  like  a man-of- 
war,  a long,  low,  black  hull,  a beautiful  model,  and  some- 
thing about  her  spars  truly  majestic.  I intended  to  have 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


Ill 


visited  her,  but  had  the  afternoon  watch  on  visiting  day,  and 
so  could  not  go  very  well. 

To-day  has  been  the  most  lovely  one  that  we  have  had  in 
a long,  long  time.  It  has  not  been  without  clouds,  but  what 
there  were,  were  light,  airy  things  which  seemed  to  enhance 
instead  of  detracting  from  the  beauteousness  of  the  day.  A 
day  it  has  been  on  which  a person  could  sit  for  hours,  watch- 
ing the  clouds,  and  building  castles  in  the  air,  resigning  for  a 
time  all  the  cares  and  anxieties  of  the  present,  and  in  per- 
fect happiness  and  contentment,  residing  in  those  castles 
which  his  imagination  has  constructed.  It  has  been  said 
“ perfect  happiness  is  not  to  be  found  in  this  world,”  but  as 
I sat  this  afternoon  in  the  gangway,  and  watched  those  light, 
fleecy  clouds  as  they  passed  overhead  in  their  rapid  flight, 
meanwhile  building  a magnificent  castle,  of  which  a some 
one  was  to  be  the  chief  garniture,  I experienced  what  I call 
almost  perfect  happiness.  Yes,  methinks  the  happiness  I 
then  felt  might  be  called  “perfect”  with  more  propriety  than 
can  two-thirds  of  that  which  passes  undisputed  for  such.  I 
was  disturbed  in  my  castle  building  by  the  announcement 
that  supper  was  ready,  so  forthwith  I had  to  descend  from 

my  lofty  elevation  to  a bowl  of  coffee  and common 

place  words  and  thoughts.  I was  not  a little  inclined  to  be 
provoked  at  the  interruption,  and  exclaim  with  Ecclesiastes, 
“ Behold,  everything  is  vanity  and  vexation  of  spirit.”  I am 
glad  that  to-morrow  we  start  again  on  our  way  to  China. 


112 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XII. 


U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Batavia,  Java, 
January  26,  1866. 


} 


My  Dear  R. : 

Coffee  and  spices  ! In  my  childish  thoughts  the  name  of 
Java  was  always  associated  with  coffee,  while  her  sister 
islands  were  similarly  suggestive  of  spices  of  various  kinds. 
The  fact  may  perhaps  be  accounted  for  by  the  close  study 
which  I was  wont  to  bestow  upon  certain  gaily  colored  labels 
which  decorated  packages  of  these  articles. 

In  mentioning  these  islands  a writer  has  remarked  that 
“ Bishop  Heber’s  beautiful  missionary  hymn  has  so  associ- 
ated the  fragrance  of  spices  and  poesy  with  these  islands, 
that  one  feels  reluctant  to  break  the  bonds  of  genius  which 
have  thus  bound  them  together  but  true  it  is,  the  “ spicy 
breezes”  are  wafted  only  by  the  poet’s  imagination. 

My  last  letter  left  us  at  Cape  Town.  When  I went  on 
deck  at  six  bells  the  following  morning,  I found  that  we  were 
under  way  and  under  steam  alone,  following  the  lead  of  the 
Hartford,  steaming  out  to  sea. 

“ Through  ocean’s  perils,  storms,  and  unknown  waters, 

Speed  we  to  Asia.” 

We  had  to  keep  slackening  our  speed  to  avoid  running  into 
the  Hartford,  but  as  soon  as  we  were  clear  of  the  land,  stop- 
ped steaming,  and  made  all  sail ; then  matters  changed.  She 
carries  more  than  double  the  amount  of  sail  that  we  do,  her 
propeller  trices  up,  and  she  can  sail  almost  as  fast  again  as 
we  can.  She  lowered  her  topsails  two  or  three  times,  for  us 
to  come  up,  but  a little  before  dark  she  hoisted  them  up,  and 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


1]3 


lowered  them  for  us  no  more.  The  next  morning  she  was 
out  of  sight  and  we  have  not  seen  her  since.  She  arrived 
here  about  fourteen  days  before  we  did,  and  after  remain- 
ing about  a week,  started  for  Hong  Kong,  the  Admiral  hav- 
ing concluded  that  we  were  not  coming  to  Batavia. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Cape  Town  we  had  our  second  court- 
martial  ; this  time,  for  theft.  The  court  acquitted  the  pris- 
oner of  the  charge,  and  scarcely  one  in  the  ship  believed 
him  to  be  guilty  of  the  crime  of  which  he  was  accused, 
although  the  missing  article  was  found  in  his  bag.  Stealing 
is  one  of  the  worst  crimes  that  can  be  committed  on  board 
ship ; for,  where  there  are  so  many,  in  such  close  connection 
with  one  another,  and  with  so  little  room  that  we  can  call 
our  own,  clothes,  valuables,  and  money  even  are  often  placed 
within  the  reach  of  a would  be  thief.  I have  noticed  one 
good  thing  in  this  respect,  in  this  ship’s  company,  that  when 
any  person  has  been  detected  taking  anything  not  his  own, 
let  it  be  ever  so  trivial,  or  from  whoever  taken,  one  and  all 
have  made  it  their  province  to  bring  the  affair  before  the 
proper  authorities.  By  them  all  such  acts  have  been  severely 
punished.  These  stringent  measures  have  been  attended  by 
the  best  results,  and  it  is  now  no  unusual  thing  to  see  money 
publicly  placed  in  some  one’s  ditty  box,  and  then  the  box 
left  for  days  unlocked  about  the  decks ; and  very  seldom  is 
a man  heard  to  complain  that  he  has  lost  anything. 

On  this  passage  T and  I had  a very  narrow  escape 

from  death.  While  standing  in  the  gangway  and  talking  to- 
gether, one  of  the  men  who  was  working  aloft  at  the  time, 
carelessly  let  fall  a heavy  marline  spike,  which  passed  close 
to  my  face  and  buried  three  inches  of  itself  in  the  deck. 
Scarcely  a second  before  that  time,  I was  standing  in  that 
exact  spot,  and  had  been  moved  back  by  the  roll  of  the  ship. 
I must  confess  I was  a trifle  frightened  when  I considered 
what  a narrow  escape  I had  had,  and  what  would  have  been 
the  consequences  had  the  spike  struck  me.  We  can  never  be 
6* 


114 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


too  thankful  to  Him  who  holds  us  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand, 
and  preserves  us  from  the  many  dangers  which  constantly 
surround  us,  and  this  too,  when  we  so  richly  deserve  his  dis- 
pleasure. 

One  day  the  Surgeon  knocked  one  of  the  little  monkeys 
which  we  got  in  the  Cape  Yerd’s  overboard  for  some  mischiev- 
ous prank  which  it  had  been  playing  upon  him.  It  was  in- 
teresting to  note  the  expressions  of  the  old  sailors  at  this 
conduct.  They  consider  it  a great  crime  to  maltreat  any 
animal,  thinking  that  storms,  head  winds,  and  everything  that 
is  bad  result  from  such  treatment.  So  when  the  monkey 
was  thrown  overboard  that  evening,  they  were  loud  and 
deep  in  their  imprecations  against  Dr.  King,  and  prophesied 
a storm  before  many  days.  Sure  enough,  the  very  next 
night,  about  midnight,  the  wind  rapidly  increased  in  force, 
and  in  less  than  an  hour  it  was  blowing  quite  a gale.  This 
lasted  seven  or  eight  hours.  Fortunately,  we  took  in  the 
to’gallant  sails,  and  fore  and  aft  sails,  and  reefed  topsails  in 
time,  else  the  consequences  might  have  been  quite  serious. 
As  it  was,  not  much  damage  was  done,  only  a few  rents  in 
the  sails,  ditty-boxes  capsized,  and  the  decks  flooded  a few 
times.  This  circumstance,  of  course,  strengthened  their 
superstitious  belief.  As  I am  speaking  about  sailor’s  super- 
stitions, I will  make  mention  of  one  or  two  other  matters 
which  have  come  under  my  notice.  When  we  were  off  the 
Cape  there  was  a great  number  of  birds  around  the  ship 
which  are  called  “ Cape  Pigeons.”  Several  of  the  officers 
amused  themselves  by  catching  these  birds  with  a hook  and 
line,  a bit  of  bread  being  attached,  for  bait.  Several  old  sai- 
lors stood  watching  the  proceedings,  growling  and  swearing 
about  the  deed,  and  prophesying  all  sorts  of  evil,  that  would 
result  therefrom.  But,  at  last,  when  one  of  the  officers  pro- 
posed killing  some  of  the  pigeons,  and  stuffing  them  to  pre- 
serve for  curiosities,  they  could  contain  themselves  no  longer, 
and  went  to  the  “mast”  and  requested  Mr.  Philip  to  put  a 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


115 


stop  to  the  proceedings,  which  he  laughingly  promised  that  he 
would  do.  Nothing  will  provoke  an  old  sailor  quicker  than 
to  commence  to  whistle  near  him.  He  will  tell  you  that  it 
will  bring  head  wind  and  unfavorable  weather. 

But  we  had  some  fishing  which  no  one  disapproved  of, 
and  that  was  in  catching  porpoises,  or  sea-hogs  as  they  are 
sometimes  called.  We  caught  several  on  the  passage,  and 
an  agreeable  change  we  found  them,  after  having  salt  food  so 
long.  In  appearance  and  flavor  their  flesh  bears  a close  re- 
semblance to  veal.  They  are  so  large  that  one  made  two 
meals  for  the  whole  ship’s  company. 

The  day  before  Christmas  the  crew  had  double  rations  of 
whatever  they  wished  served  out  to  them,  and  the  cooks  were 
busy  from  morning  until  night  in  making  preparations  for 
the  Christmas  dinner.  After  hammocks  were  piped  down, 
they  were  piled  up  upon  the  hatches,  and  the  berth-deck 
brilliantly  illuminated.  The  band  were  then  collected  and, 
seated  upon  the  hammocks,  they  discoursed  sweet  and  feet- 
stirring  music  to  all  that  were  of  a dancing  turn.  This  to- 
gether with  singing  and  other  sports,  was  kept  up  until 
nearly  midnight,  one  and  all  enjoying  themselves  “hugely.” 
I did  not  feel  very  well,  and  consequently  did  not  join  in  the 
festivities  to  any  great  extent ; still,  I enjoyed  myself  very 
much  in  looking  at  the  rest.  Christmas  was  made  as  much 
of  a holiday  as  possible,  having  no  quarters,  and  no  more 
work  than  was  absolutely  necessary,  with  the  privilege  of 
smoking  all  day,  which  is  granted  only  on  rare  occasions. 
Then  the  dinner  ! It  was  the  best  we  had  tasted  for  many 
a day,  and  much  better  than  I thought  it  was  possible  to  get 
up  under  the  circumstances.  There  were  plumb  puddings, 
chicken  pies,  mince  pies,  cakes,  and  any  amount  of  ale  and 
wines  which  were  sent  forward  from  the  ward-room. 

This  Christmas,  however,  was  far  from  being  a merry  one 
to  me ; for  up  forward  in  the  sick  bay,  swinging  in  a cot,  I 
was  tossing  restlessly  about,  with  the  pains  of  scarlet  fever. 


116 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Up  to  this  time  the  holidays  had  been  associated  in  my  mind 
with  snow,  sleigh  rides,  and  certain  frozen  ears  and  noses, 
but  this  Christmas  will  ever  be  remembered  in  connection 
with  sweltering  heat,  as  the  thermometer  stood  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  100°  above  zero  on  that  day  and  for  many  days 
afterwards.  During  this  time  the  wind  entirely  died  away, 
so  that  it  was  almost  suffocating  on  the  berth  deck. 

It  is  unpleasant  to  be  sick  under  the  best  of  circumstances, 
but  how  much  more  sad  it  is  thus  to  be  far  away  from  home, 
in  a foreign  country,  or  in  foreign  waters,  amongst  stran- 
gers, with  no  one  caring  whether  you  live  or  not ; more  than 
that,  “ I hope  the  poor  fellow  will  get  well,  but  I am  afraid 
he  never  will;” — a passing  remark  from  some  Jack  Tar,  the 
subject  of  the  remark  speedily  dropping  from  his  mind. 
Sick  at  sea ! No  one  can  know  the  force  of  those  words, 
unless  he  has  had  the  experience,  has  been  sick  on  a 
man-of-war,  out  at  sea,  where  those  many  little  delicacies 
that  a sick  man  naturally  craves  cannot  be  obtained,  with- 
out the  comforting  and  tender  care  of  mother,  sister,  or  some 
female  friend,  and  surrounded  by  the  discomforts  and  unpleas- 
antnesses which  are  hard  enough  to  bear  when  one  is  in  the 
best  of  health.  But  I would  not  have  you  think  that  I was 
neglected  or  treated  ill,  for  that  was  by  no  means  the  case. 
There  was  not  one  of  the  crew  that  would  not  have  done 
almost  anything  to  have  eased  my  pain  or  added  to  my  com- 
fort— more,  perhaps,  than  they  would  have  done  for  many 
others.  The  truth  is,  a sailor  in  a little  while  learns  to  look 
upon  sickness  and  death  with  contempt,  or  utter  indifference, 
and  to  expect  the  sickness  and  death  of  some  near  friend  as 
a matter  of  course.  I am  sure  that  I have  no  reason  to  com- 
plain, for  I had  as  good  and  tender  care  as  could  be  expected 
under  the  circumstances ; yes,  and  far  better.  It  was  then 
that  I learned  the  value  of  the  friendship  of  my  associates, 
for  they  did  everything  within  their  power  to  alleviate  my 
sufferings  and  make  me  comfortable.  Often  they  sat  for 
hours  beside  my  cot  and  fanned  me  when  I was  feverish,  or 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


117 


talked  and  read  to  me  when  I was  restless.  Yes,  notwith- 
standing my  strong  determination  to  get  well,  I fear  that  I 
should  not  have  done  so  had  it  not  been  for  the  constant  and 
devoted  care  of  these  two  friends. 

From  December  28th,  1865,  until  January  10th,  1866,  we 
lay  becalmed,  the  sails  flapping  idly  against  the  masts,  the  sea 
as  smooth  as  glass,  and  the  vessel  hardly  logging  a knot  in 
twenty-four  hours.  Occasionally,  a little  puff  would  spring 
up,  but  would  not  last  long.  We  had  beautiful  weather,  but 
oh  ! so  tiresome.  There  we  lay,  day  after  day,  in  the  same 
place,  with  plenty  of  coal  in  our  bunkers,  a smooth  sea, 
through  which  our  engines  could  urge  us  without  impedi- 
ment ; our  port  only  three  or  four  days  off!  The  same  daily 
routine : rise  at  six  bells,  seven  o’clock — breakfast  at  eight — 
quarters  for  inspection  at  two  bells,  nine  o’clock — this  lasts 
ten  minutes ; then  the  Doctor  prescribes,  and  every  one  goes 
to  what  he  has  to  do,  some  to  duty,  and  others  to  reading, 
sleeping,  smoking,  or  walking  the  deck.  There  is  no  further 
break  in  the  day  until  the  master  gets  an  observation  of  the 
sun  at  meridian,  when  he  tells  us  that  it  is  twelve  o’clock,  and 
what  the  latitude  is,  and  the  men  are  whistled  or  piped  to 
dinner.  Then  they  read,  sleep,  and  walk  again,  until  four 
o’clock,  when  they  are  piped  to  supper ; after  which  the  same 
routine  over  again  until  the  drum  beats  for  evening  quarters. 
The  Doctor  does  the  evening  prescribing — we  have  our  ham- 
mocks piped  down,  and  then  smoke  and  spin  yarns  until 
eight  o’clock,  which  puts  out  the  smoking  lamp  and  lights  on 
the  berth-deck ; nine  o’clock  extinguishes  those  in  the  steer- 
age, ten  those  in  the  ward-room,  and  the  day  is  done.  These, 
with  a daily  exercise  of  the  divisions  at  the  battery,  or  with 
small  arms,  and  twice  a week  general  quarters  for  a grand 
battle  exercise,  make  up  the  routine  of  our  existence.  This 
is  occupation  enough — leisure  enough — but,  as  it  has  been 
aptly  expressed,  “ The  occupation  is  an  unvarying  form,  the 


118 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


leisure,  a weary  interval  of  unvarying  pursuits.  No  fresh- 
ness, no  change,  no  novelty.” 

“ Lovely  seemed  anv  object  that  should  sweep 
Away  the  vast,  salt,  dread,  eternal  deep.” 

There  we  lay  upon  its  bosom  in  a calm — the  winds  lulled, 
the  engines  and  engineers  rusting,  the  occupation  of  firemen 
and  coal-heavers  gone.  We  pity  and  mourn  for  everything 
and  everybody,  but,  most  of  all,  we  mourn  for  our  pent  up 
selves,  and  grieve  that  we  are  not  rich  enough  to  refund  to 
the  National  Treasury  the  cost  of  the  coal  which  would  take 
us  into  port. 

“ Lay  aft  all  the  firemen  and  coal-heavers  and  hoist  the 
smoke-stack !”  was  almost  the  first  word  that  I heard  passed 
by  the  boatswain’s  mates,  Friday  morning,  January  10th. 

“ We  are  going  to  get  up  steam  at  last,”  cried  out  many 
voices  as  they  started  up  in  pleased  emotion,  from  listlessly 
pursuing  some  occupation,  or  from  dozing,  apparently  in- 
fused with  new  life. 

Early  in  the  forenoon,  we  sighted  a high  point  of  land  off 
our  starboard  bow,  which  we  subsequently  discovered  to  be 
Java  Head,  the  most  western  extremity  of  the  island.  About 
an  hour  later,  we  sighted  land  on  our  port  bow,  the  most 
southern  point  of  the  island  of  Sumatra.  At  noon  we  were 
between  these  two  islands — in  the  entrance  of  the  straits  of 
Sunda.  The  straits  at  this  point  are  fj-om  sixty  to  seventy 
miles  in  width.  They  kept  narrowing  gradually  as  we  pro- 
ceeded, until  about  five  o’clock  we  were  off  Anjer  Point,  the 
narrowest  part,  and  there  they  are  about  fifteen  miles  in 
width.  Anjer  Point  has  attained  a world-wide  celebrity, — 
not  on  account  of  any  commercial  importance,  or  from  the 
size  or  beauty  of  the  place,  but  from  the  fact  that  all  the 
vessels  trading  with  China,  Japan,  and  the  many  islands  of 
the  eastern  and  southeastern  coasts  of  Asia,  pass  through 
these  straits  within  sight  of  the  Point,  and  almost  invariably 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


119 


stop  there  on  their  passages  to  and  fro.  From  there  a tele- 
graph extends  to  Aden,  and  a list  of  the  vessels  sighted  at 
Anjer  Point  is  telegraphed  to  Aden,  and  from  there  to  Eu- 
rope, and  the  whole  commercial  world.  When  we  were  off 
there  a bumboat  came  alongside,  from  which  we  procured 
some  fruits.  We  did  not  stop,  but  proceeded  about  ten  miles 
farther  and  then  came  to  anchor  for  the  night  in  a beautiful 
little  bay,  at  the  northeastern  extremities  of  the  straits.  It 
was  so  dark  that  night  that  I was  unable  to  get  a good  view  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  we  left  there  the  next  morning 
before  daylight  for  Batavia.  The  distance,  about  sixty  miles, 
was  steamed  in  a little  more  than  six  hours,  and  about  noon 
we  dropped  anchor  off  Batavia,  about  three  miles  from  the 
shore — the  shallowness  of  the  water  preventing  our  nearer 
approach.  It  appeared  a quiet,  lovely  spot  to  us,  and  there 
were  but  few  vessels  at  the  anchorage. 

As  we  ran  in,  however,  the  harbor  became  suddenly  alive. 
A fleet  of  canoes,  thronged  with  bronzed  Javanese,  announced 
their  rapid  approach  to  us  by  the  confused  clattering  of  many 
voices.  The  boats  were  ticklish,  wabbling  affairs,  but  man- 
aged with  great  skill  and  dexterity.  From  the  boats  our 
glance  was  turned  to  the  chattering,  scolding,  jabbering, 
quarrelling  human  beings  on  board  of  them. 

Their  costume  is  attractive,  and  has  been  thus  described: 
at  Galle  a -little  book  has  been  published  called  “A  Guide 
to  Galle,”  in  which,  alluding  to  a portion  of  these  countries, 
it  says : “ The  rainy  season  extends  from  December  to  May, 
and  from  May  to  December  it  is  wet.”  And  so,  in  describ- 
ing the  costume  of  our  new  acquaintances,  one  might  say, 
that  “ from  the  head  to  the  hips  there  are  no  clothes,  and 
from  the  hips  to  the  heels,  about  the  same.”  Their  prin- 
cipal article  of  clothing  is  a white  or  bright  colored  “ come- 
boy  ” — a shawl  folded  as  a petticoat  about  the  waist,  and 
worn  alike  by  the  more  respectable  of  both  sexes.  The 
women,  however,  wear  a short  jacket  dropping  over  the 


120 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


breasts,  leaving  the  skin  bare  between  that  and  the  “ come- 
boy.”  The  lords  of  the  lower  class  indulge  in  no  such  waste 
of  clothing,  but  are  content  with  that  amount  of  clothing 
which  is  a bare  sufficiency.  All  have  black  teeth  and  bloody 
mouths,  from  the  use  of  the  betel-nut  mixed  with  lime  and 
pepper  leaves.  From  the  bumboats  which  came  alongside, 
we  got  an  abundance  of  excellent  oranges,  bananas,  pineap- 
ples, cocoanuts,  and  a great  variety  of  other  fruits  peculiar 
to  a tropical  clime. 

Well,  I have  been  speaking  about  some  of  the  people  and 
usages  of  Batavia,  without  getting  into  the  place.  I will 
commence  with  the  harbor ; very  wide  and  spacious,  water 
shallow  a long  distance  out  from  shore,  and  scarcely  any- 
where going  beyond  fifteen  fathoms.  An  old  Dutch  line  of 
battle  ship  is  the  only  man-of-war  in  the  harbor  except  the 
Wachusett.  Some  few  steamers,  and  fifty  or  sixty  merchant 
vessels,  make  up  the  rest  of  the  shipping.  Seaward  is  quite  a 
large  island,  named  Onrust,  on  which  stands  the  navy-yard, 
coal  wharves,  dry-dock,  and  a pretty  little  village,  all  guarded 
by  a heavy  Dutch  frigate, — Java  belonging  to  the  Dutch. 

The  town — where  is  it?  Tall  cocoa-nut  trees,  here,  and 
there,  and  everywhere,  waving  their  graceful  branches  in  the 
breeze,  and  promising  to  sea-parched  throats  the  sweet  re- 
freshment of  the  sparkling  water  of  the  young  fruit — a prom- 
ise which  is  fully  kept — are  the  most  that  we  can  see.  Some 
three  miles  distant  lies  the  shore,  and  there  stands  the  tall 
form  of  a light-house,  at  the  entrance  of  the  canal  which  leads 
up  to  the  city — some  two  miles  farther.  Hidden  behind 
these  groves  are  the  houses,  churches,  shops,  hotels,  and 
clean,  quiet  streets,  of  a population  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  thousand — Dutch,  Germans,  English,  Americans,  Chi- 
nese, Javanese — and  a mixture  of  all — Protestant,  Catholic, 
Mohammedan,  and  Buddhist. 

Batavia  is  the  seat  of  Government  of  the  Dutch  settle- 
ments in  the  East  Indies.  It  is  of  great  importance  in  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


121 


commercial  world,  being  the  emporium  in  which  all  the  mer- 
chandise of  the  Dutch  company  in  India  is  deposited  ; so 
that  here  you  may  find  the  various  spices  from  the  Molucca 
or  Spice  Islands ; gold  dust  and  diamonds  from  Borneo ; cof- 
fee and  pepper  from  Celebes  and  Sumatra ; bees-wax  and 
dye-woods  from  Timor ; tin  from  Banca,  etc.  But  you  must 
accompany  me  in  a ramble  ashore  if  you  would  learn  more 
about  the  place.  I have  been  several  times,  and  have  always 
enjoyed  myself  very  much.  We  should  liked  to  have  had 
you  with  us  when  I went  about  a week  ago,  accompanied  by 
a friend.  The  wind  was  favorable,  so  that  the  men  were 
spared  the  labor  of  pulling  the  boat  until  we  arrived  within 
about  a mile  from  the  city,  where  a beautiful  cocoa-nut 
grove  shut  off  the  wind,  and  near  the  edge  of  which  grove 
a second  light  house  stands.  The  canal,  which  I mentioned 
as  leading  from  the  harbor  to  the  city,  is  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  wide  and  deep  enough  to  float  large  schooners. 
From  the  second  light-house  to  the  city,  it  is  completely 
thronged  with  boats  and  small  craft  of  almost  every  Eastern 
nation.  Chinese  junks  with  their  confused  mass  of  red 
painted  wood-work,  with  great  goggle  eyes  painted  on  their 
bows,  East  India  boats,  close  by  a half  European  half  na- 
tive built  schooner  on  which  floats  a red  flag  with  a white 
elephant  painted  on  it — the  emblem  of  Siam,  whilst  every 
intervening  nook  is  filled  with  the  small  boats  of  the  natives. 

Landing,  we  found  ourselves  in  a high-walled  enclosure 
containing  about  one  hundred  acres — the  government  grounds. 
Within  are  the  store-houses,  forts,  barracks,  a hotel,  ship- 
chandlery,  and  a few  private  residences.  Several  carriages 
were  in  waiting  near  the  landing,  and  we  had  barely  left  the 
boat  before  some  native  had  us  by  the  button-hole,  persuad- 
ing us  to  take  one.  This  of  course  we  did,  as  no  one  thinks 
of  going  any  distance  on  foot  in  Batavia.  Could  you  but 
have  seen  us,  you,  with  your  notions  of  traveling,  would 
have  thought  that  we  were  supporting  considerable  style  for 


122 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


persons  in  our  position — a comfortable  two-seated  carriage, 
drawn  by  two  small,  but  spirited  little  ponies,  with  a driver, 
footman,  and  interpreter,  as  attendants — but  the  whole  estab- 
lishment, with  attendants,  cost  us  only  three  guilders — one  dol- 
lar and  twenty  cents — for  the  whole  day.  After  leaving  the 
government  grounds,  we  found  ourselves  in  a small  park,  from 
which  branched  off  two  streets.  We  took  the  one  on  the  right, 
and  a few  minutes’  drive  brought  us  to  the  native  quarter. 
Here  we  alighted,  bidding  the  driver  to  wait  for  us,  think- 
ing that  we  could  the  better  pursue  our  explorations  on  foot. 
A short  ramble  about  showed  us  that  the  streets  were  very 
narrow,  and  very  dirty ; the  houses,  for  the  most  part  small, 
filthy,  and  very  close  together ; and  the  whole  densely  popu- 
lated. In  the  shops,  the  principal  articles  for  sale  are,  fancy 
straw  baskets  and  boxes,  coarse  articles  of  lacquered-ware, 
grass-cloths,  &c.  The  better  portion  is  occupied  by  Chinese, 
and  these  for  the  most  part  are  money-changers,  bankers, 
and  merchants.  Reentering  our  carriage  and  returning  to 
the  park,  we  took  the  road  to  the  left,  over  a smooth  wide 
street,  shaded  on  either  hand  by  elm,  locust,  and  other  trees. 
And  how  very  different  is  this  quarter  of  the  city  from  that 
we  had  just  left!  Here  are  elegant  mansions,  situated  in  the 
most  beautiful  grounds,  aud  fairly  embowered  with  trees, — 
sufficiently  removed  from  each  other  to  satisfy  one  whether 
he  prefer  the  city  or  country.  And  this  street  extends  nearly 
five  miles.  On  it  are  some  seven  or  eight  hotels,  and 
two  or  three  churches.  Running  parallel  with  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  are  canals,  on  which  can  be  seen  the  magnifi- 
cently decorated  barge  of  the  wealthy,  floating  side  by  side 
with  the  rude  boat  of  the  native.  Fruits  of  every  kind  pe- 
culiar to  this  clime,  can  be  seen,  growing  not  only  in  private 
gardens,  but  also  by  the  roadside. 

Not  to  visit  the  Botanical  and  Zoological  Gardens,  is  not 
to  visit  Batavia.  Fully  impressed  with  the  truth,  and  with 
the  importance  of  such  a visit,  after  we  had  had  dinner,  we 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


123 


directed  the  driver  to  turn  the  horses’  heads  thitherward. 
The  gardens  are  some  two  miles  from  the  upper  extremity 
of  the  city,  but  it  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  enchanting 
drives  in  the  world.  Our  ponies  were  uncommonly  smart, 
the  roads  smooth  and  level,  and  we  reclined  in  the  carriage  in 
the  greatest  ease  and  comfort  imaginable,  enjoying  the  ride, 
enjoying  the  fruits  which  we  obtained,  and  above  all,  enjoying 
the  beautiful  scenery,  which  is  unrivaled  in  this  part  of  the 
world. 

An  hour’s  drive  brought  us  to  the  Gardens.  At  the  en- 
trance are  directions  for  visitors,  in  Dutch,  German,  French, 
Spanish,  and  English.  The  admission  fee,  one  guilder  each, 
we  paid  and  then  entered.  The  Gardens  comprise  about  one 
hundred  acres,  beautifully  laid  out  in  charming  walks  and 
drives,  and  containing  specimens  of  the  different  species  of 
plants,  trees,  shrubs,  birds,  and  animals,  peculiar  to  this  part 
of  the  world. 

After  entering,  one  first  passes  through  the  portion  devoted 
to  the  various  plants  and  flowers  with  the  many  shrubs  sur- 
rounding the  beds,  and  lining  the  walks.  To  the  right  of 
this  are  the  cages  containing  lions,  tigers,  panthers,  leopards, 
and  other  wild  beasts,  while  still  further  on  are  the  cages  of 
the  feathered  tribe,  from  the  tiny  sparrow  to  the  huge  bird 
called  the  East  India  Ostrich.  Some  birds  of  paradise  at- 
tracted our  attention,  and  drew  forth  much  admiration  by 
their  gorgeous  plumage.  Near  the  center  of  the  gardens  is 
a large,  magnificent  building  containing  but  one  principal 
room,  magnificently,  yet  withal  tastefully  decorated,  and 
chiefly  used  as  a banqueting  hall.  Beyond  this  building  is 
the  shed  and  yard  of  the  elephant.  With  him  we  amused 
ourselves  a while,  by  giving  him  fruits.  Close  by  is  the  col- 
lection of  monkeys,  every  variety  and  of  every  size,  from 
the  wee  little  thing  no  larger  than  a rat,  to  the  large,  fierce, 
ugly  baboon  as  large  as  a good  sized  calf.  A lovely  little 
grotto,  which  a number  of  the  little  ones  had,  interested  and 
amused  us  very  much.  Near  these  were  the  parrots,  hun- 


124 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


dreds  of  them  of  every  variety  of  size,  form,  and  hue.  Taste- 
fully interspersed  over  all  the  grounds  lining  the  walks  and 
drives,  are  trees  of  every  species.  Back  of  all  is  a wild  and 
picturesque  glen,  the  more  noticeable  there,  because  there  are 
scarcely  any  other  irregularities  in  the  surface  for  a long  dis- 
tance around,  \yhat  a glorious  place  this  would  make  for 
excursions  and  pic-nic  parties ! After  spending  about  three 
hours  in  examining  the  many  interesting  objects  we  picked 
some  flowers  and  returned,  much  pleased  with  our  visit  to 
the  gardens,  and  well  assured  in  our  own  minds  that  if  we 
had  not  visited  them  we  had  not  seen  Batavia. 

A few  mornings  ago  we  noticed  the  flag  on  the  American 
bark  George  Green  hoisted  with  the  Union  down — the  sig- 
nal of  distress.  A few  minutes  later  a boat  came  to  us  from 
her  reporting  that  the  crew  refused  to  “ turn  to.”  The  sec- 
ond cutter  with  an  armed  crew,  Mr.  Grover,  Mr.  Kelly,  Cor- 
poral A and  myself  with  our  side  arms  were  sent  aboard 

of  her.  We  found  the  crew  in  the  forecastle,  and  from  one 
of  them  I learned  the  cause  of  their  dissatisfaction.  The 
Captain,  with  whom  they  shipped,  died  just  before  the  vessel 
arrived  here,  and  then  the  first  mate  assumed  command.  He 
said  that  the  Captain  was  a kind,  humane  man,  and  beloved 
by  all  the  crew  ; but  that  the  mate,  the  present  captain,  was 
cruel  and  severe,  and  hated  as  much  as  the  former  was  be- 
loved. For  this  reason  they  wanted  to  be  paid  off  and  dis- 
charged, which  the  mate  refuses  to  do.  They  were  all  called 
aft  to  muster,  and,  after  speaking  a few  words  to  them,  Mr. 
Grover  asked  if  they  would  “ turn  to.”  Fifteen  out  of  the 
crew  of  seventeen  refused,  and  were  taken  by  us  aboard  the 
Wachusett.  Three  of  them  have  shipped  with  us,  and  the 
remainder  have  been  sent  aboard  the.  Dutch  frigate,  there  to 
await  the  disposal  of  the  American  consul. 

Monday,  January  22d,  we  weighed  anchor  and  steamed  up 
to  the  island  of  Onrust,  and  hauled  alongside  the  coal  wharf. 
The  next  day  while  the  crew  were  engaged  in  coaling  ship, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


125 


A and  I went  out  for  a stroll  about  the  island,  or  islands, 

there  being  two  of  them.  The  one  on  which  is  the  coal 
wharf  is  small,  being  only  about  an  eighth  of  a mile  in  cir- 
cumference. A wide  .channel,  which  is  crossed  by  a rope 
ferry,  intervenes  between  this  and  Onrust.  Onrust  is  a 
lovely  island  about  two  miles  in  circiypference,  and  is 
for  the  most  part  covered  with  groves  of  orange,  banana, 
and  cocoa-nut  trees.  The  inhabitants  of  the  latter  did 
not  give  a good  . name  to  the  crew  of  the  Hartford,  saying 
that  when  she  was  up  there  for  coal,  some  of  the  crew 
went  ashore,  broke  into  a store,  and  destroyed  and  stole  goods 
to  the  value  of  several  hundred  dollars.  I have  no  doubt 
that  it  was  all  done  by  three  or  four  unprincipled  scamps 
who  had  neither  any  respect  for  themselves,  nor  for  the  good 
name  of  their  shipmates.  And  thus  it  is,  three  or  four  such 
individuals  will  frequently,  by  their  lawless  deeds,  injure  the 
reputation  of  as  many  hundreds  of  honest,  honorable  indi- 
viduals, with  whom  they  are  associated.  Our  search  along 
the  beach  for  shells  was  rewarded  by  finding  several  rare 
and  curious  specimens.  After  having  taken  in  over  two 
hundred  tons  of  coal  in  about  five  hours,  we  returned  to  our 
old  anchorage  off  Batavia,  that  afternoon. 

Yesterday  the  crew  were  busily  employed  in  getting  in 
stores,  both  public  and  private,  and  to-morrow  we  expect  to 
start  for  China.  On  some  accounts  I am  sorry  that  we 
are  to  leave  Batavia  so  soon,  for  our  stay  here  has  been  a 
very  pleasant  one.  Although  the  weather  has  been  rather 
too  warm  for  comfort,  there  is  ever  a good,  cool,  sea-breeze, 
which  enables  us  to  support  the  heat  without  experiencing 
much  suffering.  Fruits  of  all  kinds  are  abundant,  good,  and 
very  cheap.  But  then,  on  the  other  hand,  I am  anxious  to 
get  to  China  and  once  more  be  in  communication  with  friends 
near  and  dear,  which  I have  left  behind,  and  from  whom  I 
have  not  heard  in  so  long  a time. 


126 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


LETTER  XIII. 

*tJ.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Manilla,  Luzon,! 

Philippine  Isles,  Feb.  27,  1866.  j 

Mr  Dear  R. : 

We  left  Batavia  the  following  morning,  after  the  elate  of 
my  last  letter,  as  I expected.  We  steamed  along  all  that  day 
and  night,  and  following  day,  on  a northerly  course,  the 
next  night  coming  to  anchor  at  the  southern  entrance  of  the 
Straits  of  Banca.  The  next  morning  at  day-break  we  got 
under  way  and  steamed  through  the  Straits.  In  many  places 
these  are  very  narrow,  the  island  of  Banca  on  our  starboard 
beam,  and  the  island  of  Sumatra  on  our  port,  both  being 
plainly  visible.  Islands  of  various  sizes  stud  the  Straits 
throughout,  and  on  the  whole  our  passage  through  them  was 
a very  pleasant  one.  January  31st,  we  crossed  the  line,  but 
there  was  no  such  excitement  over  it  as  there  was  when  we 
crossed  it  before.  That  same  day  we  saw  a water-spout 
some  nine  or  ten  miles  away  from  us.  In  the  distance  it 
looked  like  a huge  tunnel,  with  the  nose  downwards.  It  ap- 
proached nearer  and  nearer  us,  and  when  about  a mile  dis- 
tant, we  fired  a shot  from  the  howitzer,  and  it  instantly  broke. 
For  five  minutes,  the  water  fell  upon  us  from  it,  as  if  we  had 
been  in  a severe  thunder  storm.  I tasted  of  the  water,  and 
was  surprised  to  find  that  it  was  fresh,  for  I had  always  sup- 
posed that  the  water  of  which  they  were  formed  was  drawn 
up  from  the  sea.  We  saw  another  water-spout  later  in  the 
evening,  but  it  did  not  approach  within  six  or  seven  miles  of 
us. 

Three  days  later  we  sighted  the  island  of  Borneo,  along 
whose  shores  we  sailed  tor  three  days,  at  times  so  close  that 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


127 


we  could  observe  human  beings  walking  along  the  beach. 
In  all  that  time  we  did  not  see  the  least  sign  of  cultivation, 
nothing  but  high  mountains  and  dense  forests.  Our  object 
in  sailing  so  close  to  the  land  was  to  find  the  Dutch  island 
of  Amboyna  which  we  knew  to  be  somewhere  along  the 
coast,  but  did  not  know  the  exact  locality.  Monday  evening, 
February  5th,  we  thought  that  we  had  discovered  it,  and 
accordingly  came  to  anchor  some  little  distance  off  from  the 
shore  ; but  the  next  morning  when  we  got  under  way,  and 
approached  nearer  we  discovered  our  mistake.  Nevertheless, 
we  came  to  anchor  there,  and  some  thoughts  were  entertained 
of  having  a boat  expedition  to  the  island.  After  lying  about 
half  an  hour  we  again  got  under  way,  and  steamed  toward 
the  mainland.  Just  before  noon  we  again  dropped  anchor, 
in  as  secure  and  as  lovely  a little  bay  as  I ever  saw. 

Not  a boat  nor  vessel  of  any  kind  was  in  sight,  nor  on 
shore  was  there  the  least  sign  of  civilization  or  inhabitant 
The  surrounding  country  was  mountainous  and  covered  with 
forests  and  a thick  growth  of  underbrush,  everything  wild 
and  picturesque  in  the  extreme.  In  the  southeastern  cor- 
ner, a small  river  emptied  itself  into  the  harbor,  from  which, 
about  half  an  hour  after  we  anchored,  three  boats  filled  with 
natives,  came  into  view  and  approached  the  ship,  making 
signs  that  they  were  friendly.  When  aboat  two  boats’  lengths 
distant,  they  stopped,  evidently  viewing  us  with  a great  deal 
of  wonder  and  curiosity,  and  mingled  with  unmistakable 
signs  of  fear.  After  considerable  coaxing  we  finally  induced 
them  to  come  alongside.  They  were  all  Malays,  clothed  in 
the  garb  of  the  lower  class,  showing  that  with  them  the  fash- 
ions had  not  changed  since  the  times  of  our  first  parents. 
They  had  a few  green  cocoa-nuts  in  their  boats  which  they 
readily  exchanged  for  hard  bread  and  tobacco.  Everything 
about  the  ship  and  ourselves  was  viewed  with  a great  deal 
of  wonder  and  curiosity  by  them,  and  I doubt  very  much  if 
they  had  ever  seen  a ship  or  an  European  before.  One  of 


128 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


our  crew,  a Malay,  tried  to  converse  with  them,  but  was 
unable,  as  they  spoke  a different  dialect  from  his.  After  re- 
maining on  board  a short  time,  they  took  their  departure. 

Sometime  in  the  afternoon  the  second  cutter  and  gig,  with 
armed  crews,  several  officers,  and  a number  of  the  men — in 
which  I was  included — went  ashore  on  an  exploring  expedi- 
tion, and  with  some  faint  hopes  of  being  able  to  find  and 
bring  on  board  some  of  the  “wild  men”  to  add  to  our  stock 
of  curiosities.  We  penetrated  some  two  or  three  miles  into 
the  interior,  but  without  finding  the  remotest  signs  of  inhab- 
itant more  than  the  three  or  four  huts  near  the  beach,  where 
resided  those  natives  that  visited  us.  By  signs  and  by  draw- 
ing a rude  representation  of  an  ox  on  the  sand,  Captain 
Townsend  tried  to  make  them  understand  that  he  would  like 
to  purchase  one  from  them  ; but  without  making  them  com- 
prehend what  he  wanted.  Birds,  somewhat  resembling  rob- 
ins, were  numerous,  and  not  in  the  least  shy  of  us.  We  shot 
several  of  them  with  our  carbines.  We  picked  up  a few 
curious  stones  and  shells  on  the  beach,  and  returned  to  the 
ship  taking  off  with  us  a little  puppy,  more  resembling  a bear 
than  a dog,  which  we  named  “ Borneo,”  after  the  name  of  the 
island.  We  remained  there  that  night,  getting  under  way  at 
daylight  the  following  morning. 

That  day  we  had  our  first  target  practice  with  small  arms. 
The  target  was  suspended  from  the  fore  yard  arm,  and  we 
stood  on  the  poop  to  fire  at  it.  The  distance  was  only  about 
one  hundred  yards,  but  we  found  it  a very  difficult  target  to 
hit,  on  account  of  its  swaying  to  and  fro,  and  on  account  of 
the  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  ship.  Not  one  out  of  every 
six  shots  fired  hit  it.  The  prize  of  two  and  a half  dollars 
each,  repaid  two  of  us  for  dirtying  our  muskets. 

Sunday  we  sighted  some  islands  belonging  to  the  Philip- 
pine Group,  and  during  that  and  the  following  day  we  had  a 
number  of  them  in  sight.  On  some,  we  saw  several  active 
volcanoes,  which  are  very  numerous  in  this  group.  Monday 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


129 


morning,  we  sighted  the  island  of  Luzon  on  which  stands 
Manilla,  our  destination.  In  the  evening  we  came  to  anchor 
just  inside  the  entrance  of  Manilla  Bay.  This  Bay  is  very 
large,  being  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  length  by  seven  or 
eight  in  width,  and  would  afford  a secure  anchorage  for  all 
the  navies  in  the  world.  At  each  side  of  the  entrance  is  a 
large  island  which  narrows  it  down  to  less  than  a mile  in 
width.  At  daylight  we  left  our  anchorage  and  after  an  hour’s 
steaming  we  again  came  to  anchor  about  a mile  from  the 
town.  During  the  day  the  usual  business  of  an  arrival  in 
port  was  gone  through  with,  such  as  saluting  the  flag  of  the 
nation  to  which  the  port  belongs,  engaging  a bumboat-man- 
compradore,  washermen,  &c. 

Luzon,  with  the  greater  portion  of  the  Philippine  Group, 
belongs  to  Spain,  whose  domains  here  are  said  to  extend  over 
50,000  square  miles.  Manilla,  the  capital  of  the  Spanish 
Possessions,  is  situated  at  the  northeastern  extremity  of  the 
bay  of  the  same  name,  on  the  southwestern  side  of  the  island 
of  Luzon.  It  is  a very  ancient  city,  and  contains  a popula- 
tian  of  140,000  inhabitants,  according  to  the  census  of  1860. 
A large  proportion  of  them  are  Malays.  The  remainder 
are,  for  the  most  part,  Spaniards,  with  a sprinkling  of  Portu- 
guese, Dutch,  English,  and  Americans.  The  town  is  subject 
to  earthquakes  and  was  nearly  destroyed  by  one  three  years 
ago. 

But  come,  let  us  take  a ramble  on  shore  and  examine 
everything  of  interest  about  the  town.  As  we  put  foot  on 
shore  at  the  substantial  and  convenient  jetty,  we  find  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  a picturesque  crowd — Malays,  Hin, 
doos,  Chinamen,  Europeans ; a mingling  of  bright  colors, 
white  and  crimson  predominating.  The  first  noticed  are  the 
Chinamen,  with  all  the  head  shaved  but  the  crown  and  the 
hair  from  this  depending  in  a long  plait,  or  queue,  to  the 
ground,  or  wound  in  circles  about  the  head.  White  or  red 
striped  petticoats  or  savongs  fell  from  the  waists  of  some 
7 


130 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


and  a few  more  bright  colored  jackets,  but  many  encumbered 
with  no  more  clothing  than  would  meet  the  demands  of  de- 
cency. We  must  not  walk,  so  we  go  with  a bright-eyed 
little  native  boy,  (who  speaks  good  English,  and  whom  we 
have  engaged  as  a guide,)  to  the  stables  and  procure  a car- 
riage for  which  we  pay  two  pesos,  (two  dollars,)  for  all  day. 
First  we  will  have  a ride  through  the  towi^for  the  sake  of 
the  ride,  and  then  we  will  examine  the  many  places  of  in- 
terest more  minutely.  The  streets  are  wide  and  smooth,  the 
carriage  easy  and  commodious,  the  ponies  smart  and  lively, 
the  sights  varied  and  interesting,  and  you  cannot  fail  of  en- 
joying the  ride. 

The  houses  are  none  of  them  very  large  or  elegant  in  ap- 
pearance, with  the  exception  of  a few  in  the  eastern  suburbs 
of  the  town,  where  the  more  wealthy  and  influential  reside. 
There  may  be  seen  some  elegant  mansions  situated  in  beau- 
tiful grounds.  The  houses  of  the  main  portion  of  the  city 
are  seldom  more  than  one  and  one-half  stories  high,  are 
built  of  brick,  and  have  tiled  roofs.  About  one-third  of  the 
town  is  in  ruins,  destroyed  by  the  recent  earthquake ; but 
the  inhabitants  are  now  fast  re-building  it.  The  larger  build- 
ings suffered  most,  and  consequently  nearly  all  the  churches 
were  destroyed.  Only  one  was  left  entirely  uninjured.  Two 
others  escaped  with  only  a small  portion  of  the  walls  demol- 
ished. The  falling  of  the  bell  from  the  steeple  of  one  of 
them  killed  about  twenty-five  of  those  who  had  taken  refuge 
in  the  church  during  the  earthquake.  “ There,”  said  the 
guide  to  me,  pointing  to  a heap  of  ruins,  “ is  where  the  hos- 
pital stood,  which  buried  in  its  fall  over  five  hundred  of  its 
inmates.”  The  loss  of  life  during  the  time  of  the  earth- 
quake is  variously  estimated  at  from  two  to  ten  thousand. 
A more  definite  number  will  probably  never  be  known. 

The  town  is  divided  into  two  unequal  portions  by  a small 
river  which  runs  through  it  from  north  to  south.  This  is 
spanned  by  a fine  bridge,  which  has  a draw  in  it  to  allow 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


131 


vessels  to  pass  up  and  down  the  river.  That  portion  which 
is  situated  on  the  left  bank  is  almost  entirely  included  in  the 
walls  of  a large  fort,  which  is  upwards  of  two  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. Within  these  walls  are  situated  the  residences 
and  places  of  business  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  European 
residents  at  Manilla,  also  the  government  buildings,  the  hos- 
pitals, principal  churches,  etc.  Among  the  chief  celebrities 
of  Manilla  are  its  cigar  manufactories.  To  visit  these  a pass 
is  required  from  the  Governor.  Fortunately,  a number  of 
us  found  sufficient  favor  in  the  eyes  of  a Spanish  gentleman 
for  him  to  interest  himself  in  our  behalf  and  procure  the  re- 
quired pass,  and  with  us  paid  a visit  to  the  principal  manu- 
factory. There  we  saw  every  stage  in  the  process  of  the 
manufacture  of  a cigar,  from  the  dressing  of  the  leaf,  to  the 
packing  in  boxes  ready  for  exportation.  Upwards  of  five 
thousand  persons,  of  every  age,  sex,  color,  and  nationality, 
are  employed  in  these  manufactories,  besides  there  being  a 
great  variety  of  machinery  made  use  of.  The  cigars  here 
manufactured  are  in  every  respect  equal  to  the  best  Havan- 
nas,  and  can  be  bought  for  $8.00  per  thousand. 

Among  other  places  of  interest,  I paid  a visit  to  the  only 
Church  which  was  left  entirely  uninjured  by  the  earthquake. 
It  was  built  upwards  of  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  has  suc- 
cessfully withstood  the  many  earthquakes  by  which  the  city 
has  since  been  visited.  It  is  very  rich  in  massive  adornments 
of  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones.  To  the  rear  of  the 
Church  and  attached  to  it,  is  a fine  picture-gallery,  containing 
many  valuable  fine  old  paintings  by  Michael  Angelo  and  by 
two  or  three  others  of  the  first  masters.  An  old  monk 
shewed  me  about,  and  our  only  means  of  communication  was 
by  Latin.  With  what  knowledge  I had  of  the  language,  and 
with  the  assistance  of  a dictionary,  aided  by  certain  impres- 
sive shrugs  and  signs,  we  made  out  to  understand  each  other 
very  well.  Upon  leaving  I made  a present  to  the  Church 
and  received  the  old  monk’s  blessing. 


132 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


In  front  of  this  walled  town  is  a fine  water  battery,  and  to 
the  left  is  “ La  Plaza,”  a beautifully  shaded  park,  with 
charming  walks  and  drives,  where  on  pleasant  evenings  can 
be  seen  the  wealth,  beauty,  and  fashion  of  Manilla,  enjoying 
themselves  a Vespagnole. 

Now  let  us  cross  over  the  bridge  and  enter  the  native 
quarter  of  the  city.  We  find  dirty  alley-ways  for  streets, 
which  every  few  steps  are  constantly  changing  in  direction, — 
the  whole  town  laid  out  in  the  greatest  possible  irregularity. 
The  houses  are  for  the  most  part  constructed  by  making  a 
floor  elevated  some  three  or  four  feet  from  the  ground,  sup- 
ported on  stakes  driven  into  the  ground,  and  then  a semicir- 
cular covering  made  of  bamboo  reeds  and  thatched  with 
mats,  straw,  or  leaves.  Others  have  only  the  earth  beaten 
hard  for  a floor.  These  huts  have  each  but  one  room,  which 
serves  for  kitchen,  dining-room,  bed-room,  and  all,  and  where 
reside  from  five  to  thirty  persons.  Greater  filth,  and  more 
squalid  misery,  accompanied  by  fewer  redeeming  traits,  are 
seldom  to  be  found. 

I expatiated  somewhat  largely  upon  the  virtues  of  the 
coffee  which  is  to  be  obtained  in  Rio  Janeiro ; and  I might 
do  the  same  upon  the  chocolate  which  is  to  be  procured  in 
Manilla.  I have  drank  chocolate  many  times,  but  I never 
could  say  that  I really  loved  it  until  I drank  it  here,  and  I 
never  go  ashore  without  making  two  or  three  calls  at  the 
stand  of  an  old  Spanish  lady  who  knows  how  to  make  deli- 
cious chocolate. 

Thursday,  February  22d,  we  “ dressed  ship  ” and  fired  a 
salute  of  twenty-one  guns  at  noon,  in  honor  of  Washington’s 
birth-day.  Out  of  courtesy  to  us,  nearly  all  of  the  vessels 
in  the  harbor  also  “ dressed  ship.” 

My  collection  of  curiosities  has  received  a valuable  addition 
in  the  many  rare  and  curious  shells  which  I have  obtained 
here.  I have  also  procured  a few  cloths,  and  fancy  articles 
in  grass,  and  a number  of  new  coins. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


133 


The  past  few  days  have  been  spent  by  the  crew  in  “ coal- 
ing ship  and  taking  in  stores,”  and  to-morrow,  I hear,  we  are 
to  leave  this  place  and  not  anchor  again  until  we  reach  China. 
A few  days  ago  we  invalided  one  of  our  men  home  in  a clip- 
per bound  for  New  York.  The  Captain  has  been  on  shore 
sick  nearly  all  the  time  that  we  have  been  here,  and  for  a 
time,  it  was  rumored  that  he  would  not  recover ; but  this 
morning  he  came  on  board,  rejoicing  us  all  by  his  compara- 
tively healthy  appearance. 

A little  after  daylight  this  morning  three  Malays  were 
garrotted  on  shore,  for  the  murder  of  a policeman  a few  days 
ago.  The  place  of  execution  was  in  front  of  the  fort  and  in 
full  view  of  the  ship.  The  victims  were  seated  upon  a scaf- 
fold erected  for  the  purpose,  and  chained  to  their  seats.  A 
leathern  thong  was  passed  around  the  neck  of  each  one,  and 
then  twisted  tight  until  the  breathing  was  stopped  and  death 
ensued.  As  is  usual  upon  such  occasions,  the  execution  was 
witnessed  by  many  thousand  spectators.  Garroting  is  a fa- 
vorite mode  of  execution  with  the  Spaniards.  The  execu- 
tioner has  it  in  his  power  to  end  the  sufferings  of  his  victim 
by  an  almost  instantaneous  twist  of  the  thong,  or  he  may 
prolong  the  sufferings  by  tightening  and  loosening  the  twist. 
I am  told  that  it  is  customary  with  those  who  are  thus  to 
suffer  death,  to  bribe  the  executioner  to  release  them  from 
suffering  as  speedily  as  possible. 


134 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


LETTER  XI Y. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hong  Kong,  China,  ) 
March  5,  1866.  j 

My  Dear  R. : 

At  last  we  have  arrived  on  the  station;  have  reached 
China — just  one  year  from  the  day  when  we  steamed  down 
Boston  Harbor,  bidding  home,  friends,  and  country  “ good- 
bye ” for  a time,  and  started  upon  this  long  cruise.  It  has 
been  a year  full  of  interest  and  event  to  me  ; more  so  than 
any  similar  period  of  my  life.  In  this  year  I have  traveled 
over  twenty  thousand  miles,  visited  twelve  different  ports, 
seen  the  manners  and  customs  of  many  different  people,  and 
here  the  close  finds  me  seventeen  thousand  miles  from  home 
by  the  nearest  sailable  route,  among  strangers,  without  an 
old  friend  or  acquaintance  near  me,  or  even  a good  oppor- 
tunity of  hearing  from  those  whom  I have  left  behind. 

About  eight  o’clock  on  Friday  morning,  January  28th,  we 
heard  the  welcome  words,  “ All  hands  up  anchor,”  and  in 
less  than  fifteen  minutes  the  anchor  was  up  and  we  steaming 
down  Manilla  Bay.  One  and  all  worked  with  a will  then, 
anxious  to  get  to  Hong  Kong  as  soon  as  possible ; for  there 
awaited  us  our  letters  of  one  year’s  accumulation,  with 
all  the  incidents  of  joy  and  sorrow  which,  in  a changing 
world,  might  in  that  time  occur.  These  furnished  the  prin- 
cipal theme  of  conversation  during  the  entire  passage,  and 
were  seldom  absent  from  our  thoughts.  With  what  anxieties, 
hopes,  and  fears,  did  we  look  forward  to  the  time  when  we 
should  arrive  at  Hong  Kong,  obtain  our  letters,  and  receive 
news  from  our  friends  at  home  ! But  I will  not  anticipate. 
Our  passage  was  a remarkably  pleasant  one,  course  north- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


135 


westerly;  winds  favorable,  but  light;  sea  smooth,  and  we 
steaming  along  pleasantly  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  knots 
per  hour. 

At  nine  o’clock  yesterday  morning,  we  sighted  the  high, 
mountainous  island  of  Hong  Kong,  with  the  numerous  small, 
jagged,  rocky  islands  near  it ; and  at  four  o’clock  in  the  after- 
noon we  entered  the  northeastern  passage  to  the  harbor  of 
Hong  Kong.  After  proceeding  about  half  a mile  in  this 
passage  we  came  to- anchor  in  as  quiet  and  lovely,  as  it  was 
secure,  bight,  some  five  or  six  miles  distant  from  the  city. 

Our  reason  for  anchoring,  some  asserted,  was  because  it 
was  wanted  to  clean  and  polish  up  the  vessel,  so  as  to  present 
a fine  appearance  when  we  should  go  into  port ; whilst  oth- 
ers would  have  it,  that  it  was  done  so  as  to  be  exactly  one 
year  in  reaching  the  station  fr^m  the  day  of  our  departure 
from  the  States.  For  my  part,  I think  that  both  of  the  ex- 
planations are  correct.  To  guard  against  a surprise,  or  any 
attack  by  the  many  pirates  which  infest  these  waters,  the 
lookouts  went  on  last  night  with  loaded  carbines,  and  twenty 
rounds  of  ammunition. 

Early  this  morning  it  commenced  raining,  and  has  contin- 
ued to  rain  steadily  all  day.  Yet,  notwithstanding  this,  all 
hands  were  called  early,  and  great  preparations  made  for 
going  into  port.  At  eight  o’clock  we  weighed  anchor,  and 
after  steaming  about  fifteen  minutes,  the  city  of  Hong  Kong, 
and  the  harbor  with  its  immense  amount  of  shipping  and 
many  thousand  junks  and  sampans,  burst  upon  our  view. 
Half  an  hour’s  steaming  brought  us  along  side  the  Hartford, 
but  when  we  signaled  to  know  if  we  should  come  to  anchor, 
a negative  was  returned;  the  Admiral  seemingly  displeased 
at  our  long  delay  in  getting  on  the  station.  An  intense  ex- 
citement was  created  in  the  ship  when  it  became  rumored 
that  we  were  not  to  be  permitted  to  come  to  anchor,  but  had 
to  go  out  for  a week’s  cruise  as  a punishment  for  our  long 
delay.  Captain  Townsend,  however,  with  his  customary 


136 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


nonchalance , ordered  his  gig  to  be  called  away  and  manned, 
and  said  that  he  would  go  on  board  the  Hartford  and  see 
what  could  be  done  with  the  Admiral.  His  mission  was  suc- 
cessful, for  in  a few  minutes  the  signal  was  made  for  us  to 
come  to  anchor,  which  we  did,  and  moored  ship. 

Our  first  contact  with  the  Chinese  introduced  us  to  their 
indomitable  energy,  perseverance,  and  industry.  An  enter- 
prising Chinese  pilot  had  picked  us  up  far  out  at  sea,  and  an- 
other had  been  on  the  lookout  for  us  since  the  arrival  of  the 
Hartford,  about  a month  ago,  and  as  we  ran  up  to  our  anchor- 
age we  encountered  a Chinese  invasion.  A fleet  of  boats, 
propelled  by  mat  sails,  by  sculls  and  oars,  bore  down  upon  us. 
The  principal  object  of  competition  was  to  get  the  office  of 
compradore — the  privilege  of  supplying  the  various  messes, — 
and  of  being  the  ship’s  bumboat.  Then  there  were  tailors, 
shoemakers,  painters,  washermen  and  washerwomen,  peddlars, 
besides  aspirants  for  the  honorable  position  of  “ fast  boat  ” — 
the  boat  which,  being  the  home  and  dwelling-place  of  the 
proprietor  and  family — wives  and  children — is  employed  in- 
stead of  the  ship’s  boats  in  taking  us  to  and  from  the  shore. 

As  one  has  so  aptly  described  an  arrival  at  Hong  Kong, 
“ on  came  the  competing  fleet,  regardless,  apparently,  of  be- 
ing run  down  by  us.  We  were  not  then  familiar  with  the 
dexterity  with  which  these  boats  are  managed — being  sud- 
denly turned  and  their  course  changed  just  as  they  appear  to 
be  running  upon  an  object.  Stimulated  by  the  prize  before 
them  and  confident  of  their  skill,  they  paid  no  attention  to 
the  orders  to  keep  off,  if,  indeed,  these  could  be  heard  above 
the  clamor  and  screeching  of  their  own  tin-toned  throats. 
Some  of  the  greater  tacticians  had  small  American  ensigns 
flying,  as  if  they  thought  that  by  so  doing  they  would  be 
more  favorably  noticed  by  us. 

“ Up  alongside  the  ship  they  dashed,  and  despite  their 
skill,  not  without  some  damages  to  their  bamboo  spars.  Men 
and  women  clambered  up  the  ship’s  sides,  and  thrust  forth 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


137 


bundles^of  certificates  from  their  former  patrons  in  our  ser- 
vice, and  at  the  same  time  assuring  us  that  he  or  she  was 
No.  1,  in  their  respective  vocations.” 

A portion  of  these  boats,  those  usually  employed  to  carry 
passengers,  are  European-built  gigs,  have  canvass  sails,  and 
are  also  propelled  by  from  two  to  six  oars.  Of  this  class  is 
“ our  fast  boat.”  The  sampans — Chinese-built  boats — are 
rude,  clumsy-looking  affairs.  In  shape  they  are  triangular, 
with  the  apex  cut  off,  and  that  at  the  bow.  The  stern  is  the 
most  elevated.  About  two-thirds  of  the  after  portion  is 
roofed  over  with  two  or  three  matting  semicircles.  They  are 
propelled  by  sculls.  In  these,  families  of  ten  or  twelve  are 
sometimes  seen. 

Judging  by  looks,  size,  or  dress,  a newly  arrived  foreigner 
can  barely  distinguish  the  males  from  the  females ; both  look 
and  dress  so  nearly  alike.  Wide,  loose,  nankeen  pants  and 
sacks,  sometimes  of  a dark,  and  sometimes  of  a light-blue 
color,  the  bottoms  of  the  pants  encased  by  the  stockings  reach- 
ing nearly  to  the  knees,  and  secured  by  fancy-colored  garters  ; 
the  shoes,  thick-soled,  flat-bottomed,  turning  up  a little  at  the 
toes,  with  tops  made  of  silk  or  velvet.  In  stature  the  Chi- 
nese are  comparatively  short,  with  thick-set  bodies ; complex- 
ion, of  a light-yellowish  cast;  features,  closely  resembling 
those  of  a negro;  hair  and  eyes  black  as  jet,  and  teeth  re- 
markably regular  and  white.  The  males  have  the  head 
shaven,  except  a circular  spot  on  the  crown,  about  three 
inches  in  diameter,  where  the  hair  is  allowed  to  grow  long. 
This  is  plaited,  and  with  the  addition  of  some  dark-colored 
silk,  the  “ tail,”  or  queue,  reaches  nearly  as  low  as  the  heels. 
On  their  heads  they  wear  close  fitting  skull-caps,  made  of 
eight  sections,  with  a colored  knot  on  the  top.  The  women 
do  not  shave  the  head,  but  wear  the  hair  done  up  on  a 
frame  somewhat  resembling  the  handle  of  a large  plane,  at 
the  back  of  the  head,  and  adorned  with  pins,  tassels,  and 
other  ornaments. 

7* 


138 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


This  is  the  dress  of  the  middle  class — merchants, ^tailors, 
and  those  of  similar  occupations.  The  lower  class — boat- 
men and  coolies,  or  laborers,  have  a deep,  dark  bronzed  com- 
plexion, seldom  wear  any  covering  on  their  heads  or  feet, 
and  wear  clothes  made  of  some  coarse  cotton  material. 

Further  particulars  of  their  dress,  manners,  and  customs? 
I will  give  you,  as  soon  as  they  are  brought  to  my  notice. 
A few  words  now  about  the  Harbor  and  City  of  Hong  Kong, 
as  far  as  I have  been  able  to  see  for  myself,  and  learn  from 
reliable  sources. 

The  harbor  is  an  irregular,  oblong  sheet  of  water,  some 
six  or  seven  miles  in  length,  and  from  one  to  four  in  width, 
lying  between  the  island  of  Hong  Kong  and  the  mainland* 
It  is  said  to  afford  a very  secure  anchorage  for  shipping,  ex- 
cept during  the  typhoon  season,  when  vessels  are  compelled 
to  anchor  for  safety  in  the  large  bight  on  the  western  side 
of  the  harbor,  and  which  from  this  fact  is  called  “ Typhoon 
Bay.” 

The  harbor  is  at  present  filled  with  men  of- war,  steamers, 
and  merchant  vessels  of  almost  every  nationality,  impressing 
one  with  the  great  commercial  importance  of  the  city.  Be- 
sides these,  there  are  many  thousand  Chinese  junks  and 
smaller  craft. 

The  island  of  Hong  Kong,  or  Hinkeang,  (i.  e.,  The  Fra- 
grant Streams,)  is  nine  miles  long,  eight  broad,  and  twenty- 
six  in  circumference,  presenting  an  exceedingly  uneven  sur- 
face, consisting  for  the  most  part  of  ranges  of  barren  hills, 
with  narrow  intervals,  and  a little  level  beach  land.  The 
highest  peak,  Victoria  Mt.,  is  1,825  feet  high.  Probably 
not  one-twentieth  part  of  the  island  is  available  for  agricul- 
tural purposes.  It  was  ceded  to  the  Crown  of  England  in 
1842.  The  town  of  Victoria  lies  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island.  On  the  south  side  are  the  government  buildings  and 
dry-dock,  the  whole  called  Aberdeen. 

“ The  city  of  Victoria  may  be  said  to  extend  from  Happy 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


139 


Valley  on  the  extreme  east,  to  West  Point  on  the  extreme 
west,  a winding  road  of  about  three  miles  in  length,  the 
Queen’s  Road,  skirting  the  bay  and  winding  along  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  bay.  The 
mass  of  the  city  lies  within  the  central  two  miles  of  >this 
space,  straggling  settlements  linking  in  the  remainder.  In- 
deed, nearly  a mile  beyond  the  eastern  point  I have  named, 
separated  from  the  rest  of  the  city,  are  the  extensive  build- 
ings of  the  great  commercial  firm  of  Jardine  & Co.,  which 
seems  to  be  an  independent,  though  allied  sovereignty,  firing 
its  morning  and  evening  gun,  keeping  its  own  police  force, 
and  running  an  individual  line  of  steamers  to  the  East  In- 
dies. After  the  city  begins  to  leave  the  Queen’s  Road  with 
any  lateral  aspirations,  there  is  nothing  for  it  but  to  climb  the 
mountain’s  side  ; and  so  it  does,  with  angular,  dark -green, 
granite-knobbed  mountain  spurs,  along  which  wind  terraced 
roads,  fringed  with  shrubbery  and  gardens.  High  up  on 
• these  elevations  stand  the  pretentious  palaces  of  the  success- 
ful merchants  and  high  officials.  Also,  standing  out  to  catch 
the  breeze,  with  the  union  jack  flying  in  its  front,  is  the  yel- 
low-washed castle  of  the  Governor ; the  residence  of  the 
Bishop  of  Victoria,  and  the  Cathedral,  with  fortifications  and 
military  quarters,  lying  to  the  right  and  front.  Over  all, 
from  an  elevation  of  eighteen  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet, 
looks  down  Victoria  peak,  on  city  and  bay,  man-of  war  and 
merchant  vessel,  sampan,  lorcha,  and  junk  ; and  on  its  sum- 
mit is  the  signal-station.”  There,  also,  is  mounted  a gun, 
the  firing  of  which  announces  that  a mail-steamer  has  been 
sighted.  On  the  opposite,  or  Kowloon  shore,  stand  the  mili- 
tary store-houses,  prisons,  and  hospitals.  When  the  city  of 
Victoria  is  lighted  up  at  night,  it  presents  a beautiful  sight, 
and  is  said  to  bear  a striking  resemblance  to  Gibraltar. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  the  house  of  Thomas  Hunt  & 
Co.,  the  accumulated  letters  of  a year’s  absence  from  home 
were  sent  on  board  soon  after  we  anchored,  and  then  the 


140 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


hopes,  fears,  and  anxieties  of  that  time  were  to  be  realized  or 
dispelled.  Only  the  later  portion  of  our  mail,  however,  was 
received,  the  earlier  having  gone  to  Macao,  and  not  yet  sent 
down.  From  that  which  we  did  receive  we  could  gather 
what  we  were  most  anxious  to  learn — the  welfare  of  our 
friends  at  home.  I was  rejoiced  to  ascertain  that  my  own 
were  all  in  good  health,  as  were  most  of  my  old  acquaintan- 
ces. Some  few  births,  marriages,  and  deaths,  were  made 
mention  of,  but  none  of  them  of  special  interest  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a little  brother  added  to  the  family  circle  at  home. 
What  a glorious  feast  I had  in  perusing  the  bundle  of  letters 
which  fell  to  my  share  ! And  how  happy  I felt  after  I had 
read  them  all,  and  had  every  doubt,  fear,  and  anxiety  dis- 
pelled, and  my  best  hopes  realized ! I had  not  felt  so  light- 
some and  joyous  for  many  a day.  One  cannot  fully  appre- 
ciate the  worth  of  good  letters  from  friends  near  and  dear, 
unless  he  has  been  similarly  situated.  Like  myself,  the 
greater  portion  of  the  crew  had  good  news  from  their  friends; 
and  many  were  the  smiling  faces  seen,  and  many  a laugh 
was  heard,  as  the  last  letter  was  read,  and  the  continued  good 
health  and  prosperity  of  those  left  behind  was  there  men- 
tioned, with  the  assurance  that  the  absent  ones  were  still 
remembered  in  love  and  friendship.  Verily,  “ Good  news 
doeth  good  like  a medicine,”  and  “ As  water  to  a thirsty  soul, 
so  is  good  news  from  a far  country.”  We  then  realized  the, 
truth  and  force  of  these  two  passages  of  Scripture.  All  the 
letters,  however,  did  not  bring  good  tidings,  and  there  were 
many  sad  hearts  and  tearful  faces,  as  some  read  of  the  loss 
of  friends,  near  and  dear  friends,  whom  they  would  never 
behold  again  in  this  life.  Thus  is  it  ever  in  this  world; 
while  some  are  enjoying  every  pleasure  and  blessing  which 
earth  can  afford,  there  are  others  whose  lot  it  i§  to  endure  the 
bitter  pangs  of  sorrow  and  adversity. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


141 


LETTER  XV. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Macao,  China,  ? 

April  2,  1866.  $ 

My  Dear  R. : 

We  have  been  nearly  a month  in  China,  and  begin  to  be 
tolerably  familiar  with  the  manners,  customs,  and  excentrici- 
ties  of  the  Chinese ; and  yet  scarcely  a day  passes  without 
revealing  some  new  and  interesting  trait,  or  something  to 
excite  our  wonder  and  curiosity. 

You  see  we  have  shifted  our  anchorage  since  I wrote  you 
last.  We  remained  at  Hong  Kong  only  eleven  days,  and  on 
Thursday,  March  15th,  we  got  under  way,  and  started  for 
Macao.  As  we  were  obliged  to  follow  the  lead  of  the  Hart- 
ford, we  were  seven  hours  in  steaming  the  distance  of  forty- 
five  miles,  and  came  to  anchor  about  two  miles  from  the  shore, 
the  water  being  too  shallow  to  admit  of  our  approaching  any 
nearer.  We  found  the  Store  Ship  “ Relief,”  from  which  we 
are  to  take  stores,  in  the  harbor,  and  she  will  soon  start  for 
home.  An  English  gunboat,  a few  coolie  ships  and  merchant 
vessels,  two  or  three  river  steamers,  and  a number  of  Chi- 
nese junks  and  smaller  craft  are  the  only  vessels  beside  our 
own  in  the  harbor. 

There  is  a charming  repose,  heightened  by  contrast,  in 
such  a quiet  old  town  as  Macao  to  one  who,  but  a few  hours 
before  left  the  fussy,  upstart  pretensions  of  Hong  Kong, 
where  everybody  is  trying  to  be  somebody,  and  nobody  be- 
lieves anybody  else  to  be  anybody.  The  natural  site  of 
Macao  is  picturesque.  The  city  climbs  up  the  sides  and 
through  the  ravines  of  a group  of  hills,  the  summits  of  which 
are  crowned  with  old  castles  and  convents.  Conspicuous 


142 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


amongst  the  ruins  of  Macao  on  the  hill-tops,  is  the  front  wall 
of  an  old  church,  standing  out  sharp  and  clear  upon  its  ele- 
vation. Only  this  front  wall  remains,  its  rugged  edges  and 
window-openings  cushioned  with  moss  and  wild  foliage  which 
time  has  planted.  Such  old  towns  as  Macao,  made  up  of 
massive  old  houses,  surrounded  by  grounds  darkened  by 
trees,  and  tangled  in  shrubbery,  which,  with  the  crabbed  in- 
dependence of  age  has  a will  of  its  own  above  all  trimmings 
or  trainings,  are  very  pleasant  to  me.  The  inhabitants  pre- 
sent the  picturesque  in  the  social  scene,  as  the  crumbling 
tower,  touched  by  the  setting  sun  does  in  the  natural. 

“ The  stone  faced  mole,  or  praya,  which  curves  in  front  of 
the  city,  was  in  former  days  the  scene  of  bustling  commerce, 
but  is  now  the  pleasant,  quiet  promenade  of  those  who  have 
nothing  better  to  do.  Besides  this  Portuguese  and  foreign 
Macao,  there  is  a dense  mass  of  a Chinese  town.” 

As  a sea-port  for  Canton  before  Hong  Kong  sprang  up, 
Macao  had  a day  of  commercial  prosperity.  For  over  three 
hundred  years  it  has  been  a foreign  settlement.  The  general 
impression  is  that  it  was  given  to  the  Portuguese  as  a re- 
ward for  their  having  suppressed  piracy  on  the  coast ; but 
there  is  no  evidence  of  there  ever  having  been  any  relin- 
quishment of  authority  on  the  part  of  the  Chinese.  The 
Portuguese  claim  seems  to  be  that  of  possession,  at  first,  tol- 
erated ; then,  permitted,  and  now,  acknowledged,  in  fact  if 
not  in  name. 

Provisions  at  Macao  are  abundant  and  good,  the  climate 
healthful  and  pleasant,  and  it  is  the  chosen  retreat  of  business 
men,  merchants  of  Hong  Kong,  and  the  refuge  of  those 
whose  fortunes  have  been  broken.  These  various  elements 
unite  to  make  up  an  agreeable  society,  and  their  sole  occu- 
pation and  amusement  is  social  intercourse.  The  combined 
population,  Portuguese,  Foreign,  Chinese,  Malay,  and  mixed, 
is  variously  estimated  at  from  twenty-five  to  forty  thousand. 

A few  days  after  our  arrival  here  we  had  general  liberty 
given  us.  The  usage  is  to  keep  the  men  on  board  ship  for 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


143 


months  while  the  officers,  officers’  servants  and  a few  privi- 
leged ones  are  permitted  to  go  ashore  in  every  port.  This 
tantalizing  and  provoking  contrast,  increases  the  discontent 
arising  from  so  long  a confinement  in  their  floating  prison ; 
and  when  they  are  permitted  they  go  ashore  in  large  gangs? 
for  a twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours’  debauch.  The  idea  of 
those  in  authority  is  that  a sailor  will  have  this  debauch,  and, 
in  their  ignorance  of  man  nature,  they  overlook  the  fact 
that  it  is  by  their  treatment,  that  he  has  been  brought  to  this 
condition. 

When  our  legislators  produced  the  act  to  “ provide  for  the 
more  efficient  discipline  of  the  navy,”  in  their  simplicity  they 
assumed  some  natural  human  rights  to  exist  on  board  a man- 
of-war,  for  they  say:  “ Section  3.  And  be  it  further  enacted, 
that  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  commanders  of  any  vessels  in 
the  navy,  in  granting  temporary  leave  of  absence  and  liberty 
on  shore,  to  exercise  carefully  a discrimination  in  favor  of 
the  faithful  and  obedient and  among  the  penalties  is  “ de- 
privation of  liberty  on  shore  in  foreign  stations.”  Instead 
of  this  there  ought  to  be  a law  enacted  that  in  no  case,  ex- 
cept one  of  absolute  necessity,  should  men  be  deprived  of 
liberty  at  stated  periods  of  time. 

The  first  touch  of  the  foot  to  the  shore  after  such  an 
estrangement  is  an  intoxication.  All  have  felt  this  after  a 
long  sea  voyage  ; then  to  this  is  added  the  excitement  of 
numbers,  and  the  tendency  to  outrage  which  arises  from  the 
physical  power  of  numbers  turned  loose  for  indulgence  in  a 
weak  community.  Now,  instead  of  this  management  of  the 
crew,  suppose  that  when  in  port,  such  as  behaved  themselves 
were  permitted  to  go  ashore  in  small  parties  daily,  as  they 
could  be  spared  from  their  duties.  The  frequency  of  visit- 
ing the  shore  would  lessen  the  excitement,  the  small  num- 
bers would  diminish  the  probabilities  of  disturbance,  and  in 
every  respect,  the  most  beneficial  results  to  all  would  be  ob- 
tained. Some  commanders  have  tried  this  method,  and  have 
always  found  it  to  be  attended  with  good  benefit. 


144 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Our  “ fast  boat  ” was  used  here  to  convey  the  liberty  men 
on  shore  instead  of  the  ship’s  boats  ; but  when  I went  ashore 
with  a number  of  others  a few  days  ago,  I found  that  our 
large  boat  could  not  approach  the  land,  the  remainder  of  the 
passage  being  made  in  small  sampans.  Quite  a novelty  are 
these  sampans — Tanka  boats  they  are  called — as  are  also 
the  girls  who,  I was  about  to  say,  man  them ; and  as  these 
girls  really  do  the  hard  work  of  the  men,  I might  let  the 
nautical  term  remain.  These  picturesque,  white  teethed, 
laughing  mouthed,  bandana-kerchiefed  nymphs  live  on  the 
water  and  make  their  living  by  landing  passengers  from  the 
steamers  which  ply  between  Macao,  Hong  Kong,  and  Can- 
ton, and  from  the  large  junks,  and  in  rowing  to  the  bathing- 
places  the  business  men  and  dissipated  wretches  who  retreat 
to  Macao  for  a few  weeks  to  recruit.  The  Tanka  boat  people 
are  said  to  be  of  an  unknown  race,  distinct  from  Tartar  or 
Chinese.  They  have  their  own  customs  ; the  females  never 
contract  their  feet,  and  they  marry  among  themselves.  Where 
the  men  live  and  how,  I have  not  been  able  to  ascertain. 
Three  pretty  girls  won  our  favor  so  much  that  we  made  use 
of  their  services  and  gave  in  return,  a shilling  each — more 
than  five  times  the  regular  fare.  Such  is  the  influence  of 
beauty,  found  here  among  the  Chinese  as  well  as  at  home 
among  the  highest. 

Landing  on  the  praya,  and  passing  up  a narrow  alley-way 
towards  the  center  of  the  town,  we  soon  came  to  a large 
stone  cathedral  which  bore  evidences  of  great  antiquity  in  all 
its  surroundings.  This  stands  on  one  of  the  eminences  upon 
which  the  city  is  built.  As  we  landed  the  matin  bells  sounded, 
and  called  forth  the  stanza  from  one  of  our  number. 

“ The  convent  bells  were  ringing, 

But  mournfully  and  slow ; 

In  the  gray  square  turret  swinging, 

With  a deep  sound,  to  and  fro. 

Heavily  to  the  heart  they  go ! 

Hark  ! the  hymn  is  singing .” 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


145 


As  we  approached  the  Cathedral  the  sweet  tones  of  the 
low  chant  fell  upon  our  ears,  inviting  us  in.  We  entered, 
and  after  crossing  ourselves  with  holy  water,  took  seats. 
The  congregation  numbering  some  three  hundred  Portu- 
guese, foreigners,  Chinese,  and  mixed,  were  on  their  knees 
and  the  choir  was  chanting  our  Saviour’s  Passion — it  being 
Annunciation  Day.  The  service  was  very  finely  and  very 
impressively  conducted,  but  as  it  was  in  the  Portuguese  tongue 
it  was  intelligible  to  none  of  us.  The  building  was  like  any 
other  catholic  cathedral,  but  it  was  very  rich  in  gold  and 
silver  adornments  and  in  fine  old  paintings. 

Leaving  the  Cathedral,  we  walked  through  the  Chinese 
quarter,  where  we  were  presented  many  things  of  interest, 
and  shown  a great  variety  of  races,  and  some  of  their  occu- 
pations and  habits.  At  stands  by  the  sides  of  the  streets,  or 
in  little  shops,  the  mechanics  were  busily  at  work,  as  well  as 
numerous  braziers,  tinmen,  and  blacksmiths.  On  every  hand 
the  barbers  were  to  be  seen  shaving,  shampooing,  plaiting 
queues,  and  cleaning  out  ears,  noses,  and  eyes.  They  use 
small  triangular  razors,  the  apex  fastened  to  the  handle.  We 
seated  ourselves  in  a small  corner  shop  to  get  “ barbered.” 
Without  using  any  lather,  the  barber  commenced  to  shave 
us.  We  remonstrated  but  were  told  that  lather  did  no  good, 
that  its  use  would  make  the  hair  coarse  and  stiff,  and  was 
never  employed  by  the  learned.  The  beard  was  removed 
almost  in  a twinkling,  and  then  with  little  hoe-shaped  spoons 
the  barber  examined  our  nose,  ears,  and  eyes,  removing  little 
bits  of  dirt  and  wax  that  had  been  accumulating  there  for 
ages.  We  thought  that  with  this  act  our  torments  would 
cease,  but  in  this  we  were  doomed  to  disappointment.  After 
twisting  our  necks  about  in  every  conceivable  direction  to  all 
our  cries  of  “ Hold  on !”  the  barber  replying  “ me  no  hurt 
you,”  he  next  fell  to  beating  our  backs,  breasts,  and  sides, 
until  we  began  to  think  that  we  were  to  be  pounded  to  a 
jelly,  and  forced  him  to  desist.  The  last  operation,  I have 


146 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


been  told,  is  performed  to  drive  away  bodily  pains.  I am 
sure  that  I am  unable  to  see  the  virtue  of  it,  and  know  that 
I did  not  recover  from  the  effects  of  that  “ barbering”  for 
many  days.  The  price  for  the  whole  was  only  about  two 
cents,  but  I would  not  undergo  the  torments  of  the  operation 
the  second  time  for  twice  as  many  dollars. 

Well,  leaving  this  we  have  the  market  shops.  The  pork- 
dealer  is  dealing  out  his  slender  cutlets,  the  fruiter  his  pines, 
bananas,  oranges  and  other  fruit.  Next  to  these  are  masses 
of  green  salad,  cabbage,  pears,  beans,  radishes,  etc.  There 
are  dried  fish  and  fresh,  and  ducks  split  open  and  pressed 
flat,  as  if  they  had  been  under  heavy  weights  for  a long  time. 

An  excellent  description  of  the  dress  of  the  Chinese  is 
given  by  Surgeon  Wood,  in  narrating  what  he  saw  in  a ram- 
ble along  the  streets  of  a Chinese  city. 

“ The  laboring  coolies  with  their  burden-sticks  across  their 
shoulders,  fill  the  streets,  all  dressed  in  much  uniformity, 
with  broad-brimmed,  sharp-peaked  hats  made  of  palm  leaves, 
blue  cotton  shirts  or  frocks  coming  down  to  their  hips,  trow- 
sers  of  the  same,  reaching  half-down  their  legs,  with  either 
bare  or  straw-sandaled  fee t.  The  women  wear  precisely  the 
same  costume  except  that  the  outer  garment  hangs  loose, 
and  the  trowsers  reach  the  feet.  Even  among  the  lower 
class  a few  small  footed  women  are  seen  tottering  along  like 
children  on  short  stilts ; but  the  most  of  them  are  barefoot 
or  wear  a shoe  with  a sole  an  inch  thick  and  shaped  like  a 
rocker  skate.  Mothers  are  seen  tottering  along  the  streets, 
with  their  infants  bound  to  their  backs  by  a square  piece  of 
cloth.  When  you  would  meet  the  better  class  of  Chinese 
another  style  of  costume  varies  the  streets.  Black  satin  or 
velvet  embossed  shoes,  with  thick  white  soles,  white  leggings 
reaching  to  the  knees,  and  meeting  blue  silk  breeches  which 
are  fastened  by  silk  garters,  or  the  breeches  may  descend  the 
leg  fitting  it  closely  and  secured  by  ribbons.  The  outside 
garment  is  either  a figured  silk  or  woolen  robe,  or  a long 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


147 


robe  loose  and  flowing,  figured  or  trimmed  with  furs.  Al- 
though there  is  a general  costume,  it  admits  of  as  much 
variety  as  may  be  seen  on  some  of  our  principal  streets  in 
the  States.  Rain  or  shine,  cloudy  or  clear  in  the  daytime, 
every  Chinaman  has  an  umbrella  and  at  night  a lantern.” 
During  the  entire  day  the  streets  are  thronged  with  people, 
both  afoot  and  in  sedan-chairs,  traveling  confectionery  and 
cake  shops.  Cobblers  in  old  shoes,  workers  in  leather, 
menders  of  broken  China,  with  their  implements  of  trade, 
are  among  the  moving  occupants  of  the  streets,  while  coolies 
are  seen  carrying  their  heavy  burdens  and  bales  to  and  fro. 

The  Chinese  have  attained  great  eminence  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  silk  and  cotton  cloths.  They  are  also  noted  for  their 
skill  in  the  carving  of  ivory,  tortoise-shell,  mother  of  pearl, 
and  other  ornamental  articles,  and  also  for  the  taste  they  dis- 
play in  the  arts  of  embroidery,  dyeing,  and  the  making  of 
artificial  flowers  and  papers  of  fine  tissue. 

Leaving  the  Chinese  and  entering  the  foreign  quarter  of 
the  city,  one  finds  himself  in  a comparatively  desolate  place, 
with  its  solemn  stillness,  and  decaying  old  mansions,  churches, 
and  theatres.  The  streets  are  very  narrow  and  uneven,  ex- 
cept the  one  which  winds  around  the  praya.  No  wheeled 
vehicle  is  to  be  seen,  all  the  transporting  being  done  by 
coolies,  and  the  traveling  done  on  foot,  on  horseback,  or  in 
palanquins  carried  on  the  backs  of  coolies.  These  palan- 
quins are  square,  upright  boxes,  about  four  feet  high  and  two 
square,  trimmed  with  silk  or  green  baize,  and  with  a seat  on 
the  inside.  It  is  supported  by  two  poles,  some  ten  or  twelve 
feet  in  length,  slightly  curving  from  the  middle  to  the  ex- 
tremities where  they  are  joined  by  a cross-bar.  I took  a 
short  ride  in  one  of  them,  but  the  jolting,  unsteady  motion  pro- 
duced by  the  bearers  was  not  very  agreeable  to  me.  Those, 
however,  that  have  become  accustomed  to  this  method  of 
traveling,  say  that  it  is  a very  agreeable  one. 

In  the  evening  I went  out  from  my  lodgings  for  a stroll 


148 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


around  the  Chinese  quarter.  As  I approached  it  I heard  the 
discordant  noise  of  the  gongs,  and  tom-toms,  and  the  screech- 
ing of  the  Chinese  fiddles.  Following  these  sounds  until 
they  became  louder  and  more  intolerable,  I found  myself 
among  a motley  crowd,  over  whose  faces  glared  the  lights 
from  a covered  platform  in  an  open  space  before  the  princi- 
pal temple.  It  was  a Chinese  theatre,  supported  by  a sub- 
scription of  the  Celestials,  for  public  performances.  All  that 
I could  make  of  it  was  this  confounding  noise  of  all  imag- 
inable  discordant  instruments,  a crowd  of  people  moving  about 
the  stage  in  various  Chinese  costumes,  including  silken  royal 
robes — with  masked  faces,  and  in  the  pause  of  the  instru- 
ments screeching  to  each  other  in  voices  no  less  discordant. 
A Chinese  play  often  lasts  for  months,  commencing  at  the 
births  of  the  principal  characters — which  takes  place  pub- 
licly upon  the  stage — following  every  important  event  of 
their  lives,  and  terminating  with  their  deaths,  which  also 
takes  place  upon  the  stage,  A stay  of  some  five  or  ten 
minutes  was  enough  for  me. 

Macao  is  celebrated  as  being  the  spot  where  were  spent 
the  last  days  of  Camoens,  the  writer  of  the  only  great  poem 
which  the  Portuguese  have  produced — the  refuge  of  the  pov- 
erty stricken  bard,  and  the  locality  of  the  lonely  cavern 
where  he  nursed  his  muse.  A victim,  he  was,  of  thwarted 
first  love,  was  born  noble,  and  in  his  early  life  enjoyed  nearly 
every  felicity  which  birth,  wealth,  and  talent  could  bestow. 
Early  in  middle  life,  with  shattered  fortunes  and  dearest 
hopes  dashed  to  the  ground,  he  left  his  native  country,  came 
to  Macao,  sustained  his  existence  by  the  begging  of  his  negro 
slave,  and  ended  his  life  in  a hospital.  Since  his  death — as 
is  the  case  generally—  the  Portuguese  have  discovered  his 
great  talents,  worth,  and  merits,  and  done  much  to  honor  his 
memory.  The  cave  of  Camoens  is  in  the  grounds  of  a pri- 
vate residence.  It  has  been  so  perverted  by  art  as  to  lose 
all  that  is  romantic  or  picturesque. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


149 


Associated  with  the  fame  of  CamoeDS  is  that  of  Chinnery, 
who  died  at  Macao,  alike  celebrated  with  his  pen  and  pen- 
cil. He  was  an  eccentric  genius,  who  loved  the  productions 
of  his  talent  better  than  fame  or  money,  and  parting  with 
them  for  neither. 

A terrible  incident  has  associated  itself  with  our  stay  at 
Macao.  A few  days  ago,  a Spanish  bark  left  here  for  Cuba 
with  a load  of  coolies,  “humanity  swapping  black  skins  for 
yellow  ones.”  Soon  after  leaving  the  harbor,  the  coolies 
rose,  murdered  the  crew,  and  then  after  plundering  the  ves- 
sel of  everything  that  was  valuable,  abandoned  her.  The 
vessel  was  discovered  this  morning  by  a merchantman  bound 
into  Macao,  drifting  about.  Thinking  that  something  must 
be  the  matter  on  board,  they  sent  a boat  to  ascertain.  They 
found  the  officers  and  crew  lying  about  the  decks  where  they 
had  fallen,  and  everything  that  was  of  value  removed  from 
the  ship. 


V 


150 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


LETTER  XVI, 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Canton,  China, 
April  13,  1866. 

My  Dear  R. : 

Tuesday,  April  3d,  we  left  Macao,  and  started  for  Canton, 
the  Hartford  taking  the  lead  with  bumboat  and  compradore’s 
boats  in  tow,  and  we  following  with  the  Relief  and  our  boats. 
As  soon  as  we  were  clear  of  the  mouth  of  the  harbor  we  all 
made  sail  and  stopped  steaming,  proceeding  thus  until  we  ar- 
rived at  the  mouth  of  the  Canton  river. 

The  Chu-kiang  or  Pearl  river,  more  commonly  called  the 
Canton  river,  is  formed  by  th4  union  of  three  rivers,  the 
West,  North,  and  East  rivers,  the  two  first  of  which  unite 
west  of  the  city  of  Canton,  and  the  East  river  joins  them  at 
Whampoa.  Beside  these  there  are  numerous  other  smaller 
rivers,  creeks,  and  canals  which  pour  in  their  waters.  Af- 
ter a course  of  about  five  hundred  miles  it  passes  out  to  sea 
through  several  mouths,  the  best  known  of  which  is  the  Boca 
Tigress.  The  delta  into  which  the  East,  West,  and  North 
rivers  fall  might  be  called  a gulf,  if  the  islands  in  it  did  not 
occupy  so  much  of  the  area.  This,  together  with  the  coun- 
try drained  by  these  rivers  and  their  tributaries,  is  said  to 
form  the  most  fertile  portion  of  the  province  of  Canton,  and 
this  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  estuaries  of  any  river  in  the 
world — being  a rough  triangle  about  one  hundred  miles  on 
each  side.  The  Bay  of  Lintin — so  called  from  an  island  of 
the  same  name  where  the  opium  and  store-ships  formerly  an- 
chored— is  the  largest  sheet  of  water  within  the  estuary,  and 
lies  below  the  principal  mouth  of  the  river  called  Fu  Nun, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


151 


i.  e.,  Boca  Tigris,  or  Bogue.  From  Macao  to  the  Bogue,  we 
came  up  Lintin  Bay  in  a northeasterly  direction,  a distance 
of  about  forty  miles.  Few  rivers  can  be  more  completely 
protected  than  the  Pearl.  At  the  Bogue — through  which  we 
passed — it  is  very  narrow,  and  on  each  side  are  high  hills, 
admirable  positions  for  defenses. 

The  ruins  of  three  Chinese  forts — two  on  the  left  bank,  and 
one  on  the  right,  are  visible.  They  were  all  powerful  with 
their  guns  against  their  own  shipping,  but  of  little  avail 
against  the  power  and  skill  of  their  enemies  during  the  late 
war.  Some  ten  or  twelve  miles  farther  up  the  river,  on  the 
left  bank,  we  saw  the  ruins  of  another  fort,  while  on  the  op- 
posite bank,  on  a hill  back  from  the  river,  solitary  and  alone 
stood  an  ancient  pagoda. 

Just  before  reaching  Whampao — about  thirty  miles  from 
the  Bogue — there  is  a sharp  bend  in  the  river,  and  our  course, 
which  hitherto  had  been  northerly,  was  changed  to  the  west- 
ward, continuing  thus  until  we  reached  Canton,  some  twelve 
or  fifteen  miles  farther  on.  There  the  river  contains  many 
islands,  the  small  ones  of  Whampoa,  French,  and  Danes,  and 
the  large  one  of  Honan.  At  the  lower  extremity  of  Dane’s 
island  we  parted  company  with  the  Hartford,  she  drawing  too 
much  water  to  proceed  up  to  Canton,  and  so  gbing  up  the 
Junk  river,  or  passage  to  Whampoa,  while  we  proceeded  up 
the  Whampoa  to  the  city.  On  the  Junk  river  about  midway 
between  Whampoa  and  Canton  are  the  Barrier  forts,  reduced 
by  the  Americans  in  1856. 

Our  way  up  the  river  presented  us  with  the  interest  of  va- 
ried scenery.  The  waters,  reddish  yellow  in  color,  were  roll- 
ing, flowing  around  and  between  rocky  islands,  some  of  them 
clothed  in  green.  The  banks  were  a succession  of  lofty 
mountains,  hills  with  intervening  valleys,  dotted  with  Chinese 
villages.  ’Tis  strange  that  any  one  of  observation  should 
have  spoken  of  these  river  borders  as  uninteresting  or  thinly 
populated.  Every  cove  has  its  populous  town  or  village,  and 


152 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


where  there  is  a fertile  spot  on  the  hill-side  there  life  is 
planted. 

Some  of  the  green  hill-sides  are  sprinkled  with  large-sized 
white  semicircles.  These  are  the  Chinese  graves.  They 
have  been  spoken  of  as  resembling  a large  old  fashioned, 
oval-backed  sleigh,  high  behind,  and  low  in  front.  There 
are  two  semicircular  or  horse-shoe  shaped  enclosures  of 
masonry,  one  within  the  other.  The  outer  one  is  three  or 
four  feet  high  at  the  back,  and  some  ten  feet  in  diameter. 

After  passing  the  Bogue,  the  hills  recede,  and  the  river  is 
lined  with  a series  of  paddy  fields,  in  some  places  so  low  as 
to  require  an  embankment  to  prevent  them  from  being  over- 
flowed. By  means  of  gates  in  these  embankments  the  fields 
can  be  flooded  when  desired.  When  the  banks  of  the  river 
are  higher  the  irrigation  of  these  fields  has  to  be  done  by 
hand,  and  some  of  the  methods  employed  are  quite  curious, 
and  interesting  to  observe.  Pumps  worked  by  treadmills 
are  the  most  common,  but  occasionally  two  will  be  seen  with 
a bucket  to  either  side  of  which  a cord  is  attached,  by  means 
of  which  they  lower  the  buckets  into  the  water,  and  then  by 
suddenly  tightening  them  by  pulling  in  opposite  directions, 
the  water  is  thrown  to  a considerable  distance.  Their  ap- 
paratus for 'fishing,  as  seen  located  along  the  river’s  banks,  or 
in  bows  of  boats,  is  quite  a novelty.  Nets  attached  to  bam- 
boo frames,  and  then  fastened  to  the  end  of  a long  pole, 
which  rests  upon  an  upright  frame,  somewhat  after  the  style 
of  an  old  fashioned  well-sweep  are  principally  employed. 
In  using,  the  end  to  which  the  net  is  attached  is  lowered  down 
into  the  water  where  it  is  shallow,  and  then  after  remaining 
there  a short  time,  it  is  raised  by  means  of  a cord  attached 
to  the  other  end  of  the  pole.  We  saw  several  successful 
fishermen  with  from  one  to  a dozen  fish,  caught  at  one  time. 
The  banks  along  the  wide  delta  of  the  river  are  frequented 
by  immense  flocks  of  wild  geese,  duck,  teal,  and  other  wild 
fowl. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


153 


The  most  animated  scene,  however,  is  the  river  itself,  as 
one  approaches  the  city.  The  stream  is  fairly  thronged  with 
ships,  steamers,  and  junks  lying  at  anchor.  The  mass  of 
them  lie  between  the  city  and  a small  island  about  a mile 
and  a half  below  it,  ori  which  stands  a small  circular  fort 
called  the  “Bird’s  Nest,”  to  which  it  bears  a striking  resemb- 
lance on  account  of  the  concave  form  of  its  interior.  Some 
of  the  junks  are  enormous  masses  of  timber,  and  almost 
defy  description.  The  bottom  is  a large,  square  scow  upon 
which  are  built  sides  of  heavy  plank.  The  bow  end  of  each 
side  is  rounded  off  like  a sled,  but  all  the  square  bow  is  left 
open,  as  it  is  said,  to  the  winds,  waves,  and  water-gods. 
Here  lies  the  anchor  usually  made  entirely  of  wood,  with 
one  or  two  flukes,  and  almost  as  heavy  as  iron.  In  the  sides 
are  openings  to  take  in  the  cargo,  which  are  closed  by  doors, 
fitting  into  grooves  water-tight.  The  rudder  is  a heavy  mass 
of  timber,  seven  or  eight  feet  square,  and  is  placed  in  a wide 
opening  in  the  stern.  Although  they  are  usually  bright 
with  paint  outside,  they  are  ever  filthy  and  dirty  within. 
The  stern  is  a confused  mingling  of  gods  and  dragons  in 
white,  green,  yellow  or  other  bright  colored  paints. 

Every  junk  has  its  own  joss-house,  where  a light,  by  which 
to  make  offerings  to  their  gods  is  kept  constantly  burning. 

The  stern  is  built  up  into  platforms  of  cabins,  and  three 
or  four  heavy,  naked  sticks  are  the  masts.  Triangular  sails 
made  of  thin  strips  of  bamboo  are  used. 

Lying  near  these  are  a number  of  armed  junks,  extraor- 
dinary looking  vessels,  with  all  sorts  of  cannon  projecting 
from  their  sides.  Closer  in  shore  are  the  canal  boats,  long 
and  roofed  over,  and  their  sails  protected  from  the  weather 
by  varnished  or  painted  matting.  Then  there  are  the  smaller 
boats,  tiny,  graceful  canoes,  managed  with  almost  wonderful 
dexterity,  and  the  Tanka  passenger  boats,  roofed  over  with 
wattled  straw  matting,  and  made  water-tight  by  paint,  the 
back  closed  by  a wooden  partition,  containing  a window,  and 
8 


154 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  front  having  a bamboo  screen  which  can  be  removed  at 
pleasure.  Sometimes  instead  of  the  matting  coverings  there 
is  substituted  a small  wooden  house  with  green  blinds,  mak- 
ing a decided  improvement.  The  numerous  varieties  of  boats 
to  be  seen  here  would  take  a week’s  writing  to  describe,  for 
they  are  of  every  variety  of  form,  size  and  color,  (but  those 
that  I have  mentioned  are  the  most  prominent  varieties,) 
from  the  tiny  canoe  to  the  huge  junk,  and  from  the  wretched 
dugout  of  the  beggar  to  the  floating  palace  of  the  mandarin. 
Then  there  are  market  boats,  confectionery  shops,  and,  in 
short,  almost  every  vocation  carried  on  upon  the  water  that 
there  is  upon  the  land.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  sev- 
enty-six thousand  boats  in  and  about  Canton,  with  an  esti- 
mated population  of  five  hundred  thousand,  who  are  born, 
live,  and  die  upon  the  river  and  are  buried  in  its  waters. 
At  almost  any  hour  of  the  day,  dead  bodies  may  be  seen 
floating  down  the  river,  and  instances  are  recorded  of  vessels 
being  obliged  to  clear  the  dead  bodies  away  from  their  bows 
before  they  could  proceed  up  the  river. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  river  and  almost  hidden  by  the 
forest  of  masts,  lies  the  old  city  of  Rams-Kwangtung- Can- 
ton, associated  in  the  minds  of  old  ladies  and  merchants  with 
teas  and  silks,  and  of  all  juveniles  with  fire-crackers,  and 
Christmas.  For  a city  so  renowned,  it  makes  but  little  show 
in  approaching  it,  and  one  would  never  imagine  that  it  con- 
tained over  one  million  and  a quarter  inhabitants  within  its 
seven  miles  of  wall,  over  the  tops  of  which  its  low,  tiled 
roofed  houses  are  just  to  be  seen. 

In  the  western  suburbs  of  the  city  are  the  “Factories,” 
the  name  given  to  the  only  spot  where,  formerly,  foreigners 
were  allowed  to  reside.  They  occupy  a river  frontage  of 
seven  or  eight  hundred  feet.  In  front  of  them,  on  the  river 
side,  is  a wide,  park-like  street,  containing  many  fine  trees, 
and  affording  a pleasant  promenade  for  the  foreign  residents. 
As  we  rounded  the  point  just  above  the  Bird-Nest,  we  saw 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


155 


them  all  out  for  their  evening  promenade,  and  as  I stood  on 
the  forecastle  watching  them,  home  was  brought  more  forci- 
bly to  my  thoughts  than  by  the  sight  of  any  place  previously 
visited.  From  that  moment  I took  a great  liking  to  Canton. 
It  was  about  five  o’clock  when  we  dropped  anchor  opposite 
these  Factories,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from 
shore. 

The  Factories  were  destroyed  by  the  flames  of  war  in  the 
attack  on  the  city  in  1856,  and  since  then  have  been  rebuilt, 
much  after  the  old  plan,  but  on  a more  extensive  scale.  They 
are  built  of  brick,  stuccoed,  with  granite  foundations.  Some 
of  them'  are  three  stories  high,  but  the  most  of  them  are  only 
two.  Within  a park-like  enclosure,  near  the  middle  of  the 
town,  stands  the  pretty  chapel  of  the  Episcopal  church.  Be- 
sides the  foreign  residences  and  their  hongs — store-houses 
and  ware-houses — there  is  quite  an  extensive  Chinese  town, 
included  under  the  general  name  of  “ Factories.” 

The  following  Friday  the  Admiral  and  staff  came  up  in 
his  barge,  and  remained  several  days  on  board  us,  so  that  for 
a time  we  were  flag-ship. 

Our  stay  here  has  been  characterized  by  almost  incessant 
rain-storms,  there  having  been  scarcely  a single  pleasant  day 
since  we  arrived.  I would  have  preferred  having  a fine  day 
for  my  ramble  and  tour  of  sight-seeing  on  shore,  but  after 
waiting  a week  in  vain,  and  hearing  that  we  were  to  remain 
here  but  a day  or  two  longer,  I concluded  it  was  best  to  go 
while  there  was  an  opportunity.  Accordingly,  one  rainy 
morning,  a number  of  us  started.  Travelers  at  home  are 
constantly  annoyed  by  the  ferocious  importunities,  and  deaf- 
ening cries  with  which  hackmen  assail  them.  All  this  is 
scarcely  equal  to  the  Tanka  girls  of  Canton.  These  girls 
do  all  the  boating  on  the  river — such  as  carrying  passengers 
and  messages  between  the  shipping  and  shore.  Their  boats, 
roofed  over  with  matting,  are  kept  scrupulously  neat  and 
clean,  not  a speck  of  dirt  visible  anywhere,  and  everything 


156 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


in  its  proper  place.  Order  an.d  system  are  necessary  to 
this  neatness,  as  the  boat  is  the  permanent  dwelling  of  its 
three  or  four  inmates — their  kitchen,  dining-room,  and  bed- 
chamber. 

I will  now  give  you  the  appearance  of  the  inmates  as  seen 
by  me  on  my  way  to  the  shore ; two  young  women  and  two 
little  girls.  The  women  wore  loose  Chinese  trowsers  and 
short  frocks  of  dark  blue  silk,  with  heavy  ear-rings,  anklets, 
and  bracelets  of  a pearl -colored  stone  or  of  silver.  The 
young  ones  were  uncommonly  good-looking,  with  cheerful 
faces  framed  in  bright-colored  handkerchiefs  thrown  over 
their  heads  and  fastened  under  the  chin.  In  the  merry  ani- 
mation with  which  they  urged,  and  finally  persuaded,  me  to 
employ  their  boat,  they  displayed  beautifully  regular  and 
white  teeth. 

At  the  landing  I was  joined  by  a friend,  and  together  we 
proceeded  to  the  American  Consul’s,  persuaded  his  compra- 
dore  to  procure  a guide  for  us,  and  then  set  out  upon  our 
ramble  about  Canton.  Our  first  visit  was  to  the  western 
suburbs  of  the  city,  the  principal  streets  of  which  are  “ Old 
China  ” and  “ New  China  ” streets,  and  the  one  which  is,  as 
its  name  implies,  “ Curiosity”  street.  The  latter  is  by  far 
the  most  fascinating  to  a newly-arrived  European.  In  the 
shops — scarcely  more  than  boxes — what  tempting  wonders 
meet  the  eye  ! All  the  elaborate  carvings  and  curious  work- 
ings of  ivory,  sandal  wood,  tortoise-shell,  mother-of-pearl, 
ebony  cabinets  and  tablets,  curious  bronzes,  brightly-painted 
porcelain,  jetty  lacquer-ware — so  smooth  and  so  bright  as  to 
reflect  everything  around  like  so  many  mirrors ; work-boxes 
and  tables,  chess-men  and  chess-tables,  and  toys  of  almost 
every  conceivable  kind  ! Some  of  the  carvings  seem  almost 
the  work  of  a magician.  Ivory  balls,  one  in  the  other,  to  the 
number  of  seven  or  nine,  all  exquisitely  carved,  we  could 
not  believe  were  cut  out  of  one  solid  piece,  and  not  cunningly 
introduced  by  some  imperceptible  opening,  until  we  had  vis- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


157 


ited  the  shops  where  carving  was  done,  and  seen  that  origi- 
nally they  were  but  one  piece,  and  cut  from  the  various 
apertures  which  the  balls  contained,  until  one  after  another 
was  dislodged  and  turned,  and  then  carved  like  the  first. 
The  skill  of  the  Chinese  in  carving  is  only  equaled  by  the 
rapidity  with  which  the  work  is  performed.  There  were 
little  ivory  and  sandal- wood  boxes,  scarcely  six  inches  in 
length,  the  carving  of  which  took  many  days’  labor,  and  yet 
they  could  be  bought  for  from  one  to  five  dollars. 

There* were  other  little,  gloomy  shops,  where  the  passer- 
by could  see  scarcely  anything  to  attract  his  attention, 
more-  than  that  everything,  as  about  the  other  shops,  was 
scrupulously  neat  and  clean.  Respectable  old  Chinamen,  as 
neat  and  tidy  as  their  shops,  sat  behind  the  counters  as  if 
they  had  nothing  to  do,  nor  wished  for  anything.  These,  the 
guide  told  us,  were  the  silk  merchants,  and  that  they  were 
accustomed  to  fill  orders  for  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars  worth  of  silks.  Upon  entering  and  enquiring 
for  these  articles,  chests  were  opened,  and  rolls  of  elegant 
silks,  plain,  figured,  and  embroidered,  of  nearly  every  hue 
and  pattern,  were  displayed.  Lacquered  boxes,  too,  would 
be  opened,  containing  elegant  crape  shawls.  Any  number 
of  these  were  taken  out  for  us  to  look  at  and  examine,  and 
then  folded  and  put  back  again  with  as  much  neatness  as  if 
they  had  not  been  disturbed.  Although  we  kept  the  mer- 
chant busy  for  an  hour  or  more  in  unrolling  and  unpacking, 
and  then  left  with  purchasing  only  a few  articles,  we  were 
chin  chinned  away  with  as  much  politeness  as  if  we  had 
purchased  a cargo. 

The  manufacture  of  silk  has  long  been  established  among 
the  Celestials.  Many  years  ago,  when  the  people  of  Europe 
were  going  about  with  naked  bodies,  the  very  lowest  of  the 
Chinese  were  clothed  in  silks.  They  are  still  celebrated  for 
the  abundance  of  their  silks,  as  well  as  for  their  variety  and 
beauty,  equaling  any  European  manufactories,  and  in  crapes, 


158 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


excelling  them.  The  Chinese  are  a well-clothed  nation. 
They  are  as  frequently  seen  clothed  in  silks  and  satins,  as 
Europeans  are  in  woolens. 

An  hour  or  so  spent  in  viewing  the  many  wonders  in  the 
shops,  along  the  street,  finally  brought  us  to  the  walls  of  the 
city.  The  suburbs  approach  so  close  to  the  walls,  that  we 
would  not  have  noticed  them,  had  it  not  been  for  the  long, 
low  archway,  underneath  which  we  passed  in  entering  the 
southeastern  gate  of  the  city,  and  the  thick,  heavy,  iron  rib- 
bed gates  or  doors  by  which  it  is  closed.  The  foundations  of 
the  city  walls  are  of  sandstone,  and  the  upper  part  of  brick. 
They  are  about  twenty  feet  thick  and  from  twenty-five  to 
forty  feet  high,  having  an  esplanade  on  the  inside  and  path- 
ways leading  to  the  ramparts.  The  part  of  Canton  inclosed 
by  walls  is  about  six  miles  in  circumference,  having  a parti- 
tion wall  running  east  and  west,  which  divides  it  into  two 
unequal  parts ; the  southern  and  smaller  of  which  is  called 
New  Town,  and  the  other  Old  City.  There  are  twelve  outer 
gates,  four  in  the  partition  wall,  and  two  water  gates,  through 
which  boats  pass  from  east  to  west  across  New  City.  A 
ditch  once  encompassed  the  walls  but  it  is  now  dry  on  the 
northern  side.  On  the  other  three,  and  within  the  city  it, 
together  with  most  of  the  canals,  are  filled  by  the  tide,  and 
all  present  a revolting  mass  of  filth  at  the  bottoms,  when  the 
retiring  waters  expose  them.  The  gates  of  the  city  are  all 
shut  at  night  and  a guard  is  constantly  stationed  at  them  to 
preserve  order.  Among  the  names  of  the  gates  are,  Great 
Peace  Gate,  Eternal  Rest  Gate,  Bamboo  Wicket  Gate,  Five 
Genii  Gate,  &c. 

After  entering  the  gate,  we  crossed  the  greater  extent  of 
New  City  from  west  to  east,  and  then  passing  through  one 
of  the  gates  in  the  partition  wall,  we  traversed  the  Old  City 
from  south  to  north,  visiting  the  principal  places  of  interest 
on  our  way.  A little  after  noon,  we  stood  on  the  high  ground 
at  the  northern  part  of  the  city  where  the  English  planted 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


159 


their  batteries  after  scaling  the  walls.  The  appearance  of 
the  city  and  its  surroundings  as  viewed  from  that  elevation 
was  very  interesting,  and  as  I stood  there  enjoying  the  view, 
I thought  of  you  and  how  much  you  would  enjoy  the  pros- 
pect, if  you  could  have  been  with  me.  It  was  one  vast  ex- 
panse of  reddish  tiled  roofs,  relieved  by  a few  tall  trees  and 
interspersed  by  pairs  of  high,  red  poles,  used  for  flag-staffs, 
to  point  out  the  residence  of  some  official,  public  building  or 
Joss  temple.  To  the  north  were  the  White  Cloud  Hills  at 
the  foot  of  which  the  city  stands.  The  river,  however,  is  the 
prominent  feature  in  the  landscape,  with  its  myriads  of  boats 
of  all  sizes,  forms,  and  colors,  some  stationary,  others  moving, 
and  all  resounding  with  the  mingled  hum  of  laborers,  sail- 
ors, musicians,  marketers,  children  and  boatmen  pursuing 
their  several  sports  and  occupations.  A small  island  in  the 
river  on  which  was  the  fort  called  Dutch  Folly,  or  Sea 
Pearl,  by  the  Chinese,  with  its  fanciful  buildings,  and  beauti- 
ful trees,  with  the  quietude  reigning  over  it,  contrasts  agreea- 
bly with  the  liveliness  of  the  waters  around.  The  hills  to 
the  north  rise  twelve  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  their 
sides  covered  with  graves  and  tombs,  the  Necropolis  of  this 
vast  city.  On  the  points  nearest  the  town  are  the  ruins  of 
three  or  four  forts. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  very  narrow,  scarcely  more 
than  six  or  eight  feet  in  width,  rudely  flagged,  underneath 
which  are  the  sewers  which  are  washed  out  by  the  tides  of  the 
river.  Considering  the  enormous  masses  of  people  crowding 
these  alleys,  they  are  kept  much  cleaner  than  I should  think 
possible.  We  heard  continually  behind  us,  as  we  passed 
through  them,  the  cries  of  coolies  bearing  sedan  chairs  or 
heavy  burdens,  supported  on  sticks  across  their  shoulders* 
The  streets  are  not  wide  enough  for  the  coolies  bearing  these 
burdens  to  pass  without  the  foot  passengers  giving  way,  and 
as  they  proceed  at  a rapid  pace,  half  trot,  they  clear  their  way 
of  all  obstacles,  as  I learned  to  my  bitter  cost,  being  nearly 


160 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


knocked  down  two  or  three  times  with  the  end  of  their  poles. 
The  houses  are  built  of  wood  or  brick,  with  tiled  roofs.  The 
fronts  of  them  present  a curious  appearance  with  their  many 
projecting  curiously  carved  roofs  and  cornices.  The  long  vista 
of  these  narrow  alley-ways  presents  a very  gay  and  animated 
appearance.  The  shop  signs,  about  one  foot  wide  by  four  or 
five  feet  in  length,  are  suspended  vertically  by  the  sides  of 
the  doors.  They  are  of  bright  vermilion  or  jet  black  colors, 
finely  varnished,  and  lettered  in  gold.  Besides  these,  sus- 
pended over  the  streets  from  lines  or  bamboo  poles  stretching 
from  the  tops  of  the  houses  on  one  side  to  those  on  the  other, 
are  various  gay  banners,  flags,  and  cloths.  The  apothecary 
shops,  with  their  ornamental  labeled  jars,  and  the  hat-stores, 
with  their  plumed  and  ornamented  mandarin  hats,  also  pre- 
sent a gay  appearance.  In  Canton,  as  is  said  to  be  the  case 
in  most  large  Chinese  cities,  those  following  different  occupa- 
tions confine  themselves  to  different  streets,  thus  shoemakers 
and  their  shops  are  to  be  seen  on  one  street,  tailors  and  their 
shops  on  another,  and  so  on.  The  number  of  the  streets  is 
estimated  to  be  over  six  hundred.  Among  their  names  are 
Dragon  street,  Martial  Dragon  street,  Pearl  street,  Golden 
Flower  street,  New  Green  Pea  street,  Physic  street,  and 
Spectacle  street.  There  are  four  prisons  in  the  city,  all  of 
them  large  establishments.  All  the  capital  offences  of  the 
province  are  brought  to  Canton  for  trial,  and  this  makes  it 
necessary  to  provide  spacious  accommodations.  The  execu- 
tion-ground is  a small  yard  near  the  southern  gate  of  the  city, 
between  it  and  the  river.  There  had  been  an  execution  of  a 
number  of  pirates  a day  or  two  previous,  and  their  heads 
were  exposed  in  a rack  near  by  the  block  on  which  they  had 
been  beheaded.  Suspended  on  a post  was  a placard  relating 
the  circumstances  attending  the  affair,  in  Chinese  characters, 
which  the  guide  translated  for  us. 

After  leaving  the  city,  we  crossed  over  the  river  to  the 
Honan  side,  on  which  are  located  several  European  build- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


1 61 


ings,  and  a large  number  of  Chinese.  A little  farther  down 
is  a large  settlement  of  Parsees.  After  a short  ramble  .there, 
visiting  the  more  prominent  curiosity-shops,  and  temples, 
commonly  known  as  the  Honan  Joss-House,  about  dark  we 
returned  to  the  ship. 

I have  been  thus  particular  and  minute  in  my  description 
of  Canton  and  its  surroundings,  because  I am  told  its  main 
points  and  features  are  common  to  most  Chinese  walled  cities, 
so  that,  hereafter,  as  I visit  and  make  mention  of  other  places, 
I shall  only  speak  of  such  additions  and  exceptions  as  may 
be  brought  to  my  notice,  without  wearying  you  with  a repe- 
tition of  the  main  features,  which  a^the  same  in  all. 

It  is  only  of  late  years  that  foreigners  have  been  allowed 
within  the  walls  of  Canton,  and  now,  even,  women  are  pro- 
hibited from  entering  its  gates.  Only  a short  time  ago,  a 
lady,  more  curious  and  more  venturesome  than  the  others, 
went  within  the  walls  clothed  in  male  attire.  She  was  dis- 
covered, and  would  have  been  taken  to  prison,  and  doubtless 
suffered  death,  had  not  an  influential  gentleman  been  passing 
at  the  time  and  rescued  her.  In  the  whole  time  that  we 
were  within  the  walls  we  did  not  see  a single  European,  a 
European  article,  nor  a Chinaman  with  whom  we  could  con- 
verse excepting  the  guide. 

Canton  has  hitherto  been  known  as  the  most  truculent  city 
of  all  China.  Our  principal  object  in  coming  here  was  to 
request  an  interview  with  the  governor-general  of  the  two 
quarantine  provinces,  in  order  to  satisfy  his  own  eyes  that 
the  United  States  have  re-established  their  naval  squadron  on 
that  coast,  though  in  peace  and  good  will  towards  the  Chinese, 
who  had  honorably  maintained  their  neutrality  during  the  late 
Rebellion  in  our  own  country.  I have  been  informed  that 
upon  the  visit  of  our  admiral  and  captain  to  His  Excellency 
a few  days  ago,  he  manifested  the  best  disposition  toward  our 
country  and  countrymen. 

A few  days  after  their  visit  the  governor  sent  word  to  us 
8* 


162 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


that  he  would  “visit  the  admiral  on  board  of  the  Wachusett.” 
Accordingly  every  preparation  was  made  to  receive  him  with 
all  due  honors  and  attentions.  The  ship  was  clothed  in  her 
cleanest  and  brightest  dress,  as  were  also  the  officers  and 
crew.  An  hour  or  more  before  his  arrival  an  official  came 
bearing  complimentary  cards,  as  is  their  custom. 

“The  civilization  of  the  Chinese,”  it  has  been  well  re- 
marked, “is  shown  by  their  courtesy  and  complaisance  to  one 
another.  In  no  other  heathen  country  do  we  see  so  much  at- 
tention paid  to  ceremony,  so  many  compliments  exchanged, 
or  such  polish  in  intercourse  with  one  another.  The  poorest 
or  meanest  will  seldom  permit  a stranger  to  pass  their  door 
without  inviting  him  to  enter;  and  if  he  acquiesces,  the  pipe 
and  cup  of  tea  is  immediately  offered  him,  nor  does  the  mas- 
ter of  the  house  presume  to  be  seated  until  after  the  stranger 
has  been.” 

The  governor’s  approach  was  announced  by  the  beating  of 
gongs  and  cymbals,  and  in  a few  minutes  his  barge — a large, 
long  boat,  with  a wooden  house  built  upon  it,  bright  with 
paint,  and  decorated  with  pictures  of  dragons  and  gods,  with 
his  flag  flying  from  a staff  in  the  stern — came  in  sight,  pro- 
pelled by  long  poles  and  oars.  Arriving  alongside,  he  was 
received  by  the  admiral  and  other  officers  in  uniform,  and  by 
the  Guard  with  presented  arms;  and,  as  soon  as  his  barge 
could  drop  astern,  a salute  of  seventeen  guns  was  thundered 
forth.  He  is  a large  middle-aged  man,  and  the  most  intelli- 
gent, finest  looking  Chinaman  that  I have  yet  met.  He  wore 
instead  of  the  trowsers,  or  over  them,  close  litting  leggins  of 
heavily  embroidered  satin.  The  frock  was  of  silk,  thick,  rich, 
heavily  embroidered,  and  reaching  almost  to  his  heels.  Over 
this  he  wore  a cape  of  the  same  material,  also  embroidered, 
but  of  a darker  color.  His  hat  bore  a striking  resemblance 
to  those  of  the  continentals,  the  top  surmounted  by  a trans- 
parent red  stone  or  button  as  they  are  called,  to  which  a plume 
sloping  back  was  attached.  On  the  back  and  breast  of  his 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


103 


robe  a stork  was  embroidered,  and  his  girdle-clasp  was  of 
prehnite  set  in  rubies;  all  these  showed  him  to  be  a mandarin 
of  the  first  order.  As  only  mandarins  and  high  officials  are 
permitted  to  do,  he  wore  boots.  Around  his  neck  was  a string 
of  precious  stones  reaching  half  way  down  his  back,  and  at 
his  side  he  wore  a dagger,  the  golden  hilt  of  which  was  stud- 
ded with  jewels.  He  was  accompanied  by  a large  retinue  of 
mandarins,  officials,  soldiers,  and  attendants.  The  former 
wore  a dress  similar  to  that  of  the  governor,  only  less  rich, 
and  with  different  adornments  according  to  the  rank.  Some 
of  the  officials  wore  flowered  gold  buttons  as  badges  of  their 
office.  The  soldiers  wore  conical-shaped  straw  hats,  orna- 
mented with  red  fringe,  light  blue  nankeen  robes  and  jackets, 
on  the  back  and  breast  of  which  were  Chinese  characters, 
designating  to  what  division  they  belonged.  The  governor 
was  accompanied  by  one  of  the  foreign  residents,  who  acted 
as  interpreter. 

He  remained  on  board  upwards  of  three  hours,  examining 
every  thing  about  the  ship  with  a great  deal  of  attention  and 
interest,  and  upon  his  departure  expressed  much  pleasure  with 
his  visit,  and  gave  many  thanks  for  the  courtesy  and  kindness 
which  had  been  extended  to  him.  ’Tis  strange  and  somewhat 
amusing  to  us  to  have  a Chinaman  salute  us  after  their  cus- 
tom, which  is,  to  shake  their  own  hands  instead  of  those  of 
the  one  saluted.  This  is  always  accompanied  by  “Chin  chin,” 
which  would  answer  to  our  “How  do  you  do,”  “Thank  you,” 
or  “ Good  bye.” 

During  our  entire  stay  here  the  .ship  has  been  thronged 
with  boat-loads  of  beggars,  the  abject  misery  and  squalid  ap- 
pearance of  whom  would  defy  description,  soliciting  bits  of 
hard  bread  and  any  refuse  article  that  might  be  thrown  away. 
As  a number  of  their  boats  were  under  our  bow  yesterday, 
one  of  the  poor  wretches  fell  into  the  water,  and  would  have 
drowned  had  he  not  been  rescued  by  some  of  our  crew,  al- 
though there  were  hundreds  of  boats  near.  The  reason  of 


164 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


none  of  his  countrymen  affording  him  assistance  was  explained 
to  me  by  our  bumboatman.  He  said  that  according  to  the 
laws  of  China  if  one  rescued  a poor  man  from  drowning,  he 
was  bound  to  support  him  for  the  remainder  of  his  life,  should 
it  ever  be  necessary. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


165 


LETTER  XVII, 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hong  Kong,) 
April  17th,  1866.  ) 

My  Dear  R. : 

Before  breakfast  Sunday  morning,  April  15th,  we  “un- 
moored ship,”  got  up  the  port  anchor,  and  made  the  usual 
preparations  for  getting  under  way.  After  breakfast  the  crew 
shifted  into  mustering  clothes,  and  at  nine  o’clock  all  hands 
were  called  to  muster  for  church  service.  The  Rev.  Mr. 
Grey,  rector  of  the  Episcopal  Church  at  Canton,  officiated. 
This  was  the  first  sermon  that  I had  listened  to  in  over  a 
year,  and  I enjoyed  it,  with  the  whole  service,  very  much, 
and  wish  that  we  might  have  the  same  every  Sabbath.  To 
be  deprived  of  attending  church  regularly  is  one  of  the 
greatest  privations  that  I have  experienced  since  I have  been 
in  the  service,  and  especially  since  I have  been  aboard  ship. 
On  that  account,  if  no  other,  I shall  be  glad  when  my  period 
of  enlistment  expires. 

As  soon  as  service  was  over  we  got  under  way  and  started 
for  Whampoa,  coming  down  by  the  same  passage  as  we  went 
up.  On  this  account  we  had  to  go  to  the  lower  extremity  of 
Danes  Island  before  we  could  turn  and  go  up  to  the  anchor- 
age, thus  making  our  sailing  distance  about  twenty-five  miles, 
while  the  river  steamers,  which  go  by  Junk  Passage,  have  to 
run  only  about  ten  miles.  We  came  to  anchor  by  the  Relief, 
our  object  in  going  to  Whampoa  being  to  take  in  stores  from 
her.  The  Hartford  with  the  admiral,  we  heard,  had  returned 
to  Hong  Kong.  We  remained  at  Whampoa  only  about  three 
hours,  so  I did  not  go  on  shore,  and  you  will  have  to  be  con- 
tent, for  the  present,  with  such  observations  of  the  place  as  I 
was  able  to  make  from  the  ship. 


1G6 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


At  Whampoa  {i.  e.,  Yellow  Anchorage,)  is  a reach  in  the 
river,  four  miles  in  length,  where  the  shipping  usually  lie, 
above  which  it  is  impossible  for  large  vessels  to  go.  The  old 
town  of  Whampoa,  with  its  pagoda,  lies  on  an  island  of  the 
same  name,  north  of  the  anchorage,  and  distant  some  four  or 
five  miles.  Viewed  from  the  ship,  it  presents  a very  interest- 
ing and  picturesque  appearance,  being  fairly  embowered  in 
trees.  Near  the  water’s  edge,  and,  in  fact,  partly  built  upon 
the  water,  is  New  Town,  the  residence  of  the  foreigners, 
which  appears  to  be  a small,  dirty,  insignificant  place.  Upon 
the  opposite  bank,  on  Danes  Island,  are  the  dry  docks,  the 
largest  and  principal  ones  to  be  found  in  China.  On  this  side, 
stretching  along  the  bank  of  the  river  for  about  a mile,  is 
Bamboo  Town,  the  houses  for  the  most  part  constructed — as 
the  name  implies — of  bamboo.  These  are  chiefly  the  resi- 
dences of  the  dock -laborers. 

The  country  to  the  north  of  the  anchorage  is  low  and  level 
— one  vast  expanse  of  paddy-fields  nearly  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  On  the  southern  side  there  are  several  pictur- 
esque hills,  covered  with  trees  and  beautiful  verdure.  The 
summit  of  the  one  rising  immediately  back  of  Bamboo  Town, 
is  crowned  with  the  showy  tombs  of  a Parsee  burying-ground. 
The  eminence  itself  is  oval  in  form,  covered  with  beautiful 
trees,  shrubs,  and  verdure,  and  forms  the  most  interesting 
and  picturesque  feature  in  the  whole  landscape. 

That  night  we  anchored  just  outside  the  Bogue,  and  came 
here  early  the  following  day.  We  had  barely  anchored 
when  Dame  Rumor  brought  us  the  news  that  we  were  to 
get  ready  as  soon  as  possible,  and  proceed  to  the  northward 
to  investigate  and  settle  some  difficulties  which  American 
residents  there  are  reported  as  having  with  the  Chinese. 
Later  advices  strengthen  these  reports,  and  I have  come  to 
the  conclusion  that  there  must  be  some  truth  to  this  intelli- 
gence of  Dame  Rumor.  The  crew  have  been  hard  at  work 
yesterday  and  to-day  making  the  necessary  preparations,  and 
to-morrow  we  expect  to  start. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


167 


After  dinner  to-day,  accompanied  by  a friend,  I took  one 
of  the  many  passenger-boats  which  crowd  about  the  ship, 
and  set  out  for  the  shore.  After  a pull  of  about  ten  minutes 
we  landed  at  the  fine  stone  pier  in  front  of  Hunt  & Co.’s 
buildings.  A glance  right  and  left  showed  a fine,  wide  street, 
with  numerous  piers  and  wharves — “ Bund”  it  is  called — 
fronting  a long  row  of  buildings ; stores,  warehouses,  ship- 
chandleries,  &c.  In  front  was  a short,  wide  street,  finely 
shaded,  leading  to  Queen’s  Road,  while  at  the  junction  of  the 
streets  rose  a tall,  square,  granite  pillar,  with  a clock  on  each 
side  near  the  top — The  Clock  Tower.  Passing  up  the  street 
to  Queen’s  Road,  turning  the  corner  at  the  post-office,  and 
going  west,  we  found  ourselves  amid  the  large  magnificent 
houses  of  business  of  the  foreign  merchants.  These,  with 
the  better  class  of  Chinese  silk,  ivory,  and  lacquer  shops,  ex- 
tend along  Queen’s  Road  for  about  three-fourths  of  a mile, 
when  the  road,  “ both  topographically  and  morally,  makes  a 
descent  into  Tae-ping-shan,  the  dense  Chinese  settlement 
proper,  where,  amid  native  trades,  robbers,  painted  courte- 
sans, opium  and  tea  saloons,  foreigners  keep  drinking-shops 
and  sailor  boarding-houses.” 

Retracing  our  steps  and  going  east  from  the  clock-tower, 
between  more  store-houses  and  places  of  business,  we  came 
upon  a beautifully  shaded  park,  in  which  are  the  parade  and 
cricket  grounds  of  the  English  troops,  opening  to  the  sea  on 
one  side,  and  overlooked  on  the  other  by  the  Episcopal  church 
perched  upon  an  eminence.  Passing  on  through  this  our 
way  led  through  long  ranges  of  military  quarters,  with  shady 
walks  under  rows  of  trees  at  their  front,  and  with  sentries 
posted  at  the  gates.  Here  we  saw  specimens  of  the  guard- 
ians of  the  place  ; European  soldiers  in  close  crimson  jackets, 
or  dark-skinned,  curly-haired  Sepoys  in  tight-fitting  Euro- 
pean dress.  Beyond  these  we  came  to  the  Navy  Yard,  and 
public  buildings,  built  of  granite. 

Instead  of  continuing  on  our  walk  to  Happy  Valley,  we 


168 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


decided  to  leave  that  for  some  future  visit,  and  so  after  re- 
tracing our  steps  to  the  clock-tower,  we  ascended  the  hill 
for  some  two  hundred  yards  to  Hollywood  Road,  a street 
which  runs  parallel  with  Queen’s  Road.  Following  this 
west  we  passed  many  elegant  mansions, — some  of  them 
set  back  in  deep,  shaded  yards,  beautified  by  fountains  and 
statuary, — large  banks  and  houses  of  business,  hotels,  the 
Catholic  church,  and  again  made  a descent  into  Tae-ping- 
shan.  To  the  eastward,  Hollywood  Road  leads  to  the  reser- 
voir— from  which  the  city  is  supplied  with  water — and  also 
to  several  private  residences,  including  the  large,  elegant 
mansion  of  the  Governor,  with  its  beautiful  grounds,  above 
which  are  the  public  gardens  recently  established.  Above 
Hollywood  road  are  several  smaller  streets,  for  the  most  part 
lined  with  private  residences,  and  the  extensive  granite  pris- 
ons and  police  station  of  the  colony. 

To  one  personage,  interesting  to  all  men-of-war’s-men  vis- 
iting China,  I must  devote  a little  space, — “ Old  Sam,” — the 
bumboat  man.  I don’t  suppose  that  an  American  man-of- 
war  has  visited  China  for  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years,  that 
every  one  on  it  did  not  know  this  personage.  He  is  a dark- 
complexioned,  withered,  dried-up  old  Chinaman,  with  limbs 
shaking  as  if  he  had  the  palsy,  and  looks  so  thin  and  light 
that  a breath  of  wind  might  blow  him  away.  He  is  very 
keen  and  shrewd,  and  keeps  the  best  bumboat  that  I ever 
saw,  and  which  is  said  to  be  the  best  one  on  the  station. 
“ Hab  got  eberyting,”  he  replies  to  all  questions  as  to  what 
he  has,  and  this  you  find  to  be  almost  true ; eatables  of  all 
kinds,  and  almost  any  knick-nack  that  a man  aboard  ship 
would  require,  while  what  he  has  not,  by  informing  him,  he 
will  bring  it  off  from  shore  if  it  is  to  be  obtained.  He  is 
reputed  to  be  very  wealthy.  Every  man-of-war  that  comes 
into  the  harbor  he  supplies  with  a bumboat,  always  tending 
the  Senior’s  ship  himself,  his  son,  “ Young  Sam,” — a tall, 
well-formed,  good-looking,  intelligent  young  Chinaman  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


169 


about  twenty — tending  the  next  in  rank,  and  some  relatives 
the  others.  They  always  go  with  the  vessels  to  Whampoa, 
Macao,  and  Canton,  but  never  to  the  northward,  so  we  shall 
lose  them. 

I must  narrate  an  incident  of  our  stay  here,  illustrative  of 
the  imitative  faculties  of  the  Chinese,  and  their  lack  of  inven- 
tion. As  labor  is  very  cheap,  and  Chinese  tailoring  good, 
many  of  the  men  have  sent  cloth  ashore  to  the  native  tailors 
and  had  clothes  made.  They  would  seldom  take  the  meas- 
ure, but  wanted  a pattern.  One  man,  wishing  to  have  a pair 
of  pants  made,  gave  the  tailor  an  old  pair,  adorned  with  sev- 
eral large  patches,  for  a pattern.  When  the  work  was  done 
and  delivered,  the  new  pants  were  a perfect  imitation  of  the 
old  ones,  even  to  the  size,  form,  and  number  of  the  patches 
which  they  contained,  and  what  was  better  still,  the  tailor 
demanded  extra  pay  for  the  extra  labor. 


170 


CHINA  ANI)  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XVIII. 

IT.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai, 
April  28,  1866. 

My  Dear  R. : 

Our  six  days’  passage  from  Hong  Kong  to  Shanghai  was 
characterized  by  strong  winds,  a rough  sea,  and  two  lament- 
able incidents. 

As  I was  standing  on  the  forecastle  Thursday  morning, 
April  19th,  conversing  with  the  sergeant  and  enjoying  the 
glorious  sight  of  the  waves  rolling  in  their  majestic  swells, 
and  the  beautiful,  many  colored  rainbows  formed  by  the  sun 
shining  upon  the  falling  spray,  our  conversation  and  my 
pleasing  meditations  were  brought  to  an  abrupt  termination 
by  the  ship  making  a deep  plunge  into  a huge,  coming  wave, 
and  at  the  same  time  shipping  a sea  over  her  bow,  sweeping 
everything  before  it,  and  “ piling  us  up  ” on  the  chicken- 
coops  at  the  break  of  the  forecastle.  While  struggling  there, 
endeavoring  to  extricate  myself,  I heard  the  cry,  that  cry 
which  no  one  hears  without  a feeling  akin  to  horror,  “a  man 
overboard !”  It  was  Charles  Parker,  captain  of  the  forecastle  ; 
but  whether  he  was  swept  off  by  the  sea,  or  knocked  over- 
board by  the  jib-sheet  block,  (as  he  was  engaged  in  clearing 
the  sheet  at  the  time,)  no  one  seemed  to  know.  There  was 
not  time  to  investigate  the  case,  but  to  turn  to  that  which 
they  did  know,  and  see  what  could  be  done.  A man  over- 
board, and  in  such  a sea  as  that ! Everyone  felt  that  some- 
thing ought  to  be  done,  but  what?  It  was  not  a time  to  order 
anyone  out  upon  the  water.  But  there  was  no  necessity  for 
such  an  order, — a crew  of  volunteers,  headed  by  Mr.  Wise — 
an  ensign — sprang  to  the  whale-boat,  and  with  some  difficulty, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


171 


attended  by  no  small  amount  of  danger,  managed  to  lower  it 
and  shove  off.  They  had,  however,  proceeded  hardly  two 
boats’  lengths  from  the  ship  when  Parker  was  seen  to  sink  to 
rise  no  more ; making  our  first  tribute  to  Chinese  waters. 
From  the  time  he  was  knocked  overboard  until  he  sank,  not 
a cry  was  heard  to  escape  him,  and  from  this,  it  is  thought 
that  he  was  knocked  off  by  the  block  and  stunned  by  the 
blow.  After  waiting  a few  minutes  for  him  to  reappear, 
without  seeing  any  signs  of  him,  they  returned  to  the  ship. 
The  sea  was  running  so  high,  and  the  ship  rolling  so  heavily, 
that  their  coming  along  side  was  attended  with  much  diffi- 
culty and  danger,  and  there  were  many  narrow  escapes  from 
death  getting  aboard. 

While  they  were  preparing  to  secure  the  boat  it  got  adrift, 
and  the  second  cutter  was  lowered,  manned,  and  sent  after  it. 
When  she  was  returning,  just  as  I was  preparing  to  go  below? 
there  was  heard  another  cry  of  horror.  “ The  second  cutter 
has  capsized.”  Springing  upon  the  hammock -nettings,  I saw 
the  boat  overturned,  and  the  men  clinging  to  her  bottom  or  to 
the  gunwales.  The  other  cutter  was  then  lowered,  manned, 
and  sent  to  the  rescue,  but  none  of  us  expected  to  see  more 
than  two  or  three  of  the  crew  rescued,  if  any  were.  With 
deep  interest  and  apxiety  we  watched  that  boat  as  it  flew  to 
the  rescue  under  the  careful  and  skillful  guidance  of  the  cox- 
swain. The  men  were  finally  all  picked  up,  and  the  boat  re- 
turned in  safety  to  the  ship.  We  succeeded  in  securing  the 
two  cutters,  but  had  to  leave  the  whale-boat. 

After  a delay  of  three  hours  we  again  proceeded  on  our 
way,  one  of  our  crew  and  one  boat  gone,  the  two  cutters 
badly  stove  up,  and  every  thing  in  confusion  about  the  decks. 

That  same  evening,  while  passing  through  Formosa  Chan- 
nel, we  narrowly  avoided  running  over  some  of  the  many 
fishing  junks  which  crowd  the  channel,  they  not  showing  any 
light  until  we  were  close  upon  them.  A little  after  midnight 
the  look-out  on  the  forecastle  reported  a light  right  ahead ; 


172 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


but  although  “the  helm  was  put  hard  up,”  we  were  too  close 
to  avoid  running  over  the  junk.  Our  flying  jib-boom  pene- 
trated her  mainsail,  lifting  it,  mast  and  all  out  of  her.  and 
throwing  the  junk  to  one  side.  When  the  crew  saw  that  we 
were  about  to  run  them  down,  instead  of  endeavoring  to  save 
themselves,  they  commenced  to  beat  upon  gongs  and  cymbals, 
burn  joss  papers,  and  invoke  their  gods.  From  the  cry  that 
they  set  up  after  we  ran  upon  them,  we  thought  they  were 
in  a sinking  condition,  and  accordingly  lowered  a boat  and 
went  to  their  assistance,  but  found  that  they  were  all  right, 
except  that  their  mainmast  and  sail  were  gone — those  had 
saved  her.  To  add  to  our  misfortunes  our  flying  jib-boom 
was  broken  by  the  collision,  and  had  to  be  cut  away  to  clear 
us  from  the  sail  of  the  junk. 

We  “laid  to”  the  night  of  the  23d,  thinking  that  we  must 
be  near  the  light-ship  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yangtse-kiang 
River.  We  fired  three  or  four  guns,  and  sent  up  rockets  for 
a pilot,  but  none  came  to  us.  As  soon  as  an  observation 
could  be  made  the  following  morning,  we  found  that  we  were 
then  some  twenty-four  miles  distant  from  the  light-ship,  to- 
wards which  we  then  started.  We  arrived  there  about  eleven 
o’clock,  took  in  a pilot,  and,  after  steaming  about  an  hour, 
sighted  land  off  both  bows — the  main  land  off  our  port,  and 
Tsungmung  Island  off  our  starboard  bow. 

Tsungmung  Island  is  where  the  Yangtse-kiang  discharges 
its  waters  by  two  mouths  into  the  Eastern  Sea.  At  two 
o’clock  we  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Woosung  River,  which 
is  there  about  three-fourths  of  a mile  in  width.  On  the  left 
bank  stands  the  small,  unwalled,  Chinese  town  of  Woosung, 
but  it  is  a mere  collection  of  low  buildings,  having  nothing  of 
interest  about  it,  unless  it  be  the  long  line  of  earth-works  be- 
low it,  now  deserted  and  grass-grown,  or  the  immense  number 
of  junks  which  throng  the  river  before  the  town.  Also  lying 
there,  I noticed  two  or  three  small  steamers  which  the  Chi- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


173 


nese  had  purchased  from  the  Europeans,  and  now  used  as 
revenue-cutters. 

From  Woosung  to  Shanghai  the  distance  is  about  fourteen 
miles,  nearly  due  south,  up  the  Woosung  River.  The  land 
on  both  sides  of  the  river  is  low  and  level,  and  for  the  most 
part  devoted  to  rice  culture.  Many  clusters  of  houses  and 
groves  of  fruit-trees  are  to  be  seen  along  its  banks.  A short 
distance  above  Woosung  are  the  French  store-houses,  and  op- 
posite them  a French  frigate  was  lying  at  anchor.  After  pro- 
ceeding about  ten  miles  we  passed  around  a small  bend  in  the 
river,  and  came  in  view  of  the  city  of  Shanghai,  stretching 
along  the  left  bank,  with  its  immense  shipping  thronging  the 
river  before  it.  It  was  about  four  o’clock  when  we  dropped 
anchor  before  the  American  Consul’s,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  from  shore. 

I was  surprised  at  the  size  of  Shanghai,  for  it  is,  as  you 
might  say,  just  born.  At  home  we  are  used  to  the  rapid 
growth  of  cities  as  seen  at  the  west,  but  they  had  the  modesty 
to  start  with  the  infantile  existence  of  villages.  But  Shang- 
hai, as  a residence  for  foreigners,  seems  to  have  sprung  at 
once  into  adult  strength  and  glory.  Fifteen  or  twenty  years 
ago  the  place  where  the  city  now  stands  was  a swamp,  dotted 
over  with  filthy,  bamboo-built  Chinese  houses,  and  there  are 
some  aboard  the  Wachusett  that  say  when  they  were  here 
ten  or  twelve  years  ago  it  was  a small,  insignificant  town,  in 
comparison  with  what  it  is  at  present.  Now  for  upwards  of 
two  miles  along  the  outer  side  of  the  horse-shoe  curve  in  the 
river,  by  nearly  a mile  in  width,  is  a city  of  large  commodi- 
ous mansions,  many  of  them  quite  elegant  ones,  especially 
those  fronting  the  river  and  in  view  from  the  ship.  Several 
of  them  are  situated  in  what  is  termed  a “compound” — a 
well  enclosed  plat  of  garden  and  shrubbery — the  walls  form- 
ing the  boundaries  of  the  streets,  which  are  opened  upon  by 
carriage-gates  guarded  by  porters’  lodges.  The  “Bund,”  a 
wide,  pleasant  promenade  and  carriage -drive,  curves  along 


174 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  river’s  bank  in  front  of  the  city,  and  is  active  during  the 
day  with  business,  and  cheerful  towards  evening  with  eques- 
trians, carriages,  and  promenaders. 

The  foreign  city  is  divided,  topographically,  into  three  por- 
tions— the  English,  French,  and  American  concessions — each 
flying  their  own  national  flag,  and  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
their  respective  consuls.  The  American  concession  is  the 
lower  one  of  the  three,  and  extends  from  about  one-fourth  of 
a mile  to  the  eastward  of  where  we  are  lying,  to  Su-chau 
Creek,  about  the  same  distance  to  the  westward.  Commenc- 
ing at  the  lower  extremity  the  eye  rests  first  upon  wharves, 
founderies,  and  warehouses,  the  principal  of  which  are  near 
Hunt’s  wharf.  Next  comes  Captain  Robert’s  ship-yard  and 
his  residence,  and  then  another  row  of  store-houses.  At  the 
head  of  a short  street  which  leads  back  from  the  Bund,  is  seen 
the  Episcopal  chapel,  with  its  square  tower,  a neat,  tasteful, 
granite  edifice,  with  green  blinds,  situated  in  a charming  little 
yard  filled  with  shrubbery.  Further  on,  past  a few  fine  resi- 
dences, is  a medical  hall,  and  then  comes  the  fine  large  build- 
ing of  the  United  States  Consulate,  with  a pretty  yard  filled 
with  shrubbery,  in  front  of  which  stands  the  tall  flag- staff, 
from  which  floats  the  stars  and  stripes.  Continuing  on,  we 
pass  a hotel,  the  head  of  Old  China  Street,  the  Exchange, 
another  private  residence  or  two,  the  Astor,  another  private 
residence,  and  come  to  the  Su-chau  Creek.  In  the  rear  of 
all,  at  the  heads  of  the  streets  leading  back  from  the  Bund, 
are  to  be  seen  several  elegant  mansions,  standing  in  beauti- 
fully adorned  enclosures. 

Leaving  this  and  crossing  the  tile-paved  draw-bridge  which 
spans  Su-chau  Creek,  our  eyes  rest  upon  the  English  settle- 
ment, by  far  the  finest  and  most  extensive  portion  of  Shang- 
hai. Where  the  Su-chau  Creek  forms  its  junction  with  the 
Woosung  (or,  as  it  is  more  commonly  called,  the  Whang-po) 
River,  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  localities  of  Shanghai. 
Here,  looking  down  the  reach  of  the  river,  up  the  waters  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


175 


the  creek,  and  over  the  whole  settlement,  surrounded  by  large 
grounds  and  brick  wall,  are  the  showy  buildings  of  the  British 
Consulate.  The  consular  buildings,  court  house,  and  post- 
office,  are  all  near  each,  other,  with  the  union  jack  flying  in 
their  front. 

After  crossing  Su-chau  Creek  the  shore  runs  almost  at  right 
angles  to  its  former  course,  southward  to  Yang-kin-pang 
Creek,  upwards  of  a mile  in  front  of  the  English  concession, 
which,  in  reality,  is  the  foreign  city  of  Shanghai.  It  presents 
an  imposing  front  of  large,  elegant  mansions,  many  of  them 
having  beautiful  yards  in  front,  and  over  which  fly  the  flags 
of  several  different  nations,  showing  them  to  be  the  residences 
of  consuls.  At  intervals  can  be  seen  fine,  broad  streets,  lead- 
ing back  from  the  Bund,  lined  on  either  hand  by  stately 
buildings. 

The  Bund  itself  is  lined  with  numerous  wharves,  where 
vessels  are  lying,  taking  in  or  discharging  their  cargoes. 
Towards  the  upper  part  of  the  English  concession  is  an  ex- 
tensive pile  of  buildings — the  Chinese  custom-house. 

From  Yang  kin-pang  Creek  to  the  eastern  walls  of  the 
Chinese  city — about  half  a mile — is  the  French  concession, 
over  which  floats  the  tri-color.  A few  fine  buildings,  from 
the  midst  of  which  rises  a lofty  church  spire,  with  the  wide, 
busy  Bund  in  front,  is  all  that  meets  our  view  from  the  ship. 
Of  the  walled  or  Chinese  town  but  the  northeastern  corner 
of  the  walls  can  be  seen. 

At  the  point  where  the  Chinese  and  foreign  cities  of 
Shanghai  meet  upon  its  banks,  the  river,  about  three-fourths 
of  a mile  wide,  makes  a horse-shoe  curve  of  two  or  three 
miles  from  northeast  to  southwest.  A low,  green  plain  lies 
in  this  bend,  leaving  the  river  to  curve  around  it  of  uniform 
width.  Near  the  extreme  point  there  is  an  old  signal-stand, 
not  now  used.  Back  a little  are  several  godowns , or  store- 
houses. Still  farther  back  are  several  large,  elegant  man- 
sions, standing  in  wide,  deep  yards,  filled  with  large  trees  and 


176 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


fine  shrubbery.  Close  by  the  river’s  bank,  opposite  our  an- 
chorage, is  an  extensive  lumber-yard  and  machine-shop.  To 
the  whole  is  given  the  name  of  Pootung  side,  or  simply 
Pootung. 

The  country  around  Shanghai,  on  every  side,  is  a continu- 
ous flat,  the  only  mountains  in  sight  being  about  thirty  miles 
distant  in  a northwest  direction.  The  entire  population  of 
Shanghai  is  estimated  at  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 
There  is  a large  amount  of  shipping  in  the  harbor,  including 
some  of  the  largest  and  finest  clippers  in  the  world.  The 
greater  portion  of  the  vessels  are  lying  at  or  opposite  the 
wharves  just  below  us,  or  those  at  the  upper  part  of  English 
Concession,  or  at  French  Concession.  Such  is  the  view  of 
Shanghai  as  seen  from  our  forecastle.  Now  if  you  will  ac- 
company me  on  a ramble  ashore,  we  will  see  what  the  shore 
view  will  furnish  of  interest. 

The  liackmen  at  home,  or  the  Tanka  girls  at  Canton,  are 
not  to  be  compared  to  the  sampanmen  of  Shanghai  for  brazen 
importunity.  Curious  triangular  affairs  are  these  sampans, 
bright-red,  with  an  eye  painted  on  each  side  of  their  blunt 
bows.  They  are  propelled  by  grave-looking  Chinamen,  who, 
with  blue  cotton  trowsers,  no  upper  garments — or  at  the  best 
a light  cotton  sack — shaved  head,  and  broad-brimmed,  conical 
hat,  stand  up,  each  alone,  in  his  own  boat,  swaying  himself 
to  and  fro  as  he  slowly  but  steadily  sculls  his  sampan.  As 
we  show  ourselves  at  the  gangway,  the  ship’s  side  is  thronged 
with  these  sampans,  each  man  clamoring  loudly  for  us  to 
take  his  boat. 

We  land  and  spend  some  time  in  looking  about  American 
Concession,  or  Hong  Que,  as  it  is  called.  On  the  street 
running  parallel  with  the  Bund  we  find  a few  fair  buildings, 
and  a large  number  of  drinking-shops  and  sailor  boarding- 
houses, with  a few  miserable  Chinese  huts. 

Crossing  the  bridge  over  Su-chau  creek,  we  find  a toll-gate 
at  the  opposite  side,  but  as  the  keeper  sees  that  we  are  in 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


177 


uniform,  we  are  not  called  upon  to  pay.  Passing  along  the 
Bund  in  front  of  English  and  French  Towns,  we  find  our- 
selves “ amid  bustling  scenes  and  noisy  cries — cries  from  the 
cargo-boats  and  others  on  the  water  ; cries  from  the  venders 
of  fruits,  cakes,  and  confectioneries  on  shore,  but  above  all,  on 
every  hand,  turning  every  corner,  up  and  down  every  street, 
there  comes  upon  our  ears  the  wail,  ‘a-hoo!  a-hoo!  a-hoo  !’  the 
cry  of  the  laboring  coolies,  who,  with  the  bowed  staff  on  their 
shoulders  and  a burden  at  each  end,  are  hurrying  along  with 
tottering  steps,  with  an  expression  in  their  cry  as  though  the 
breath  was  being  pressed  from  their  bodies  at  every  step. 
From  the  weight  of  these  burdens,  this  might  well  be  the 
case,  for  all  cargoes  are  transported  to  and  from  the  ware- 
houses and  wharves  by  men.”  The  traveling  of  foreigners, 
and  of  most  Chinese  above  the  rank  of  laborers,  is  done  in 
sedan-chairs,  upon  men’s  shoulders.  No  burden-horses  or 
vehicles  are  to  be  seen,  those  on  the  Bund  being  mere  dis- 
plays of  luxury.  Human  labor  is  cheaper  than  horses  or 
machinery. 

Adjoining  the  upper  part  of  French  Town,  shut  in  by 
dark,  gloomy  walls  some  thirty  feet  high,  is  the  old,  or 
Chinese  city.  The  walls  are  some  three  miles  in  circum- 
ference, and  from  them  open  six  gates,  into  suburbs  even 
more  extensive  than  the  city  itself.  A moat  twenty  feet 
in  width  and  about  the  same  in  depth,  surrounds  the  city. 
The  approaches  and  entrances  to  the  city  are  most  repulsive. 
On  each  side  of  the  street  leading  to  it  are  grouped  most  dis- 
gusting, deformed,  wailing,  and  howling  beggars.  The  de- 
tails of  the  condition  and  appearance  of  these  wretches  would 
be  too  repulsive  for  narration.  One  of  the  most  common  and 
repulsive  deformities  is  that  of  losing  the  feet  at  the  ancle- 
joint  in  attempting  to  bandage  the  feet  into  littleness.  The 
gates  are  low  arched  channels  about  thirty  feet  in  length,  and 
look  like  the  entrances  to  sewers.  The  streets  are  the  sew- 
ers themselves,  narrow  and  filthy  beyond  description.  The 
9 


178 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


houses  are  for  the  most  part  built  of  brick,  with  tiled  roofs, 
and  in  no  respect  differ  materially  from  those  of  any  other 
Chinese  city. 

We  will  not  penetrate  further  into  the  city  to-day,  but  will 
leave  it  for  some  subsequent  visit  when  we  have  a guide  and 
more  time,  and  will  now  take  a look  back  into  the  English 
Concession.  It  is  a mile  wide,  and  in  some  places  even  more 
than  that,  well  laid  out  in  fine  level  streets,  with  large,  com- 
modious places  of  business,  intermixed  with  large,  palatial 
residences  situated  in  lovely  yards.  Still  further  back  are 
many  fine  Chinese  stores  and  shops.  The  English  chapel 
stands  in  a large,  but  at  present  not  very  attractive  yard,  in- 
asmuch as  it  is  covered  with  the  materials  from  which  they 
are  constructing  a new  church,  which  promises  to  be  a fine 
one.  Coming  out  upon  the  Bund  again,  we  behold  a monu- 
ment near  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  upon  examination  find 
that  it  has  been  erected  to  the  memory  of  those  foreigners 
who  fell  in  the  Imperial  cause  during  the  late  Taeping  rebel- 
lion. General  Ward — a native  of  Salem,  Mass. — is  at  the 
head  of  the  list. 

Our  ramble  has  necessarily  been  restricted,  my  dear  R., 
and  our  view  of  the  interesting  sights  but  partial.  At  an- 
other time,  however,  when  we  have  a better  opportunity  and 
more  leisure,  we  will  be  more  lengthy  and  minute. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


179 


LETTER  XIX. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Newchwang, 

July  5,  1866. 

My  Dear  R. : 

Our  stay  here,  which  promised  at  first  to  be  but  a few 
days,  has  lengthened  out  to  more  than  two  months,  and  what 
then  bade  fair  to  be  tedious  and  wearisome,  has  been  enliv- 
ened by  many  interesting  incidents.  Although  we  leave 
here  in  a day  or  two,  one  and  all  hoping  that  we  may  never 
return,  I shall  ever  revert  to  our  time  spent  at  Newchwang,  as 
to  by  no  means  the  most  uninteresting  period  of  our  stay  in 
these  waters.  But  now  return  with  me  to  Shanghai,  where 
my  last  letter  to  you  was  mailed,  Saturday,  April  28th,  and 
with  me  take  notice  of  the  interesting  incidents  in  the  order 
in  which  they  have  been  noted  down. 

That  same  evening  we  were  serenaded  by  some  of  the 
Wyoming’s  liberty-men,  who  came  alongside  in  sampans, 
and  discoursed  sweet  music — accompanied  by  some  good 
singing — until  nearly  midnight.  In  my  account  of  Shanghai, 
I neglected  to  mention  the  presence  there  of  the  Wyoming, 
a sister  ship  of  the  Wachusett.  She  left  the  States  about  two 
months  after  we  did,  and  has  been  some  three  or  four  months 
on  the  station — having  come  directly  hither. 

Just  before  noon  the  next  day  our  cutters  were  brought  off 
from  shore,  where  they  had  been  sent  for  repairs.  This  com- 
pleted the  repairs  made  for  the  damages  done  on  our  passage 
from  Hong  Kong,  and  as  all  other  preparations — such  as  tak- 
ing in  coal  and  provisions — had  been  completed  the  day  pre- 
vious, at  two  o’clock  we  got  under  way  and  proceeded  down 
the  river  under  the  charge  of  the  pilot.  We  left  him  at  the 


180 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


light-ship,  and  then  altered  our  course  to  the  northward, 
steaming  along  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  knots  per  hour 
against  a light  head  wind.  The  next  day  our  port  boiler 
gave  out,  so  that  our  speed  was  lessened  to  five  or  six  knots. 
The  morning  of  the  third  day  out  we  sighted  land  off  our 
port  bow,  which  proved  to  be  Shantung  Promontory,  a high 
peak  on  the  mainland  of  China,  at  the  straits  which  connect 
the  Gulf  of  Pechele  with  the  Yellow  sea.  About  noon  we 
rounded  this  point  of  land  and  altered  our  course  to  nearly 
due  west.  The  following  morning  we  entered  the  Gulf  of 
Liautung,  again  altering  our  course  to  the  northward.  In 
the  evening,  thinking  that  we  must  be  near  land,  we  came  to 
anchor.  We  got  under  way  again  at  daylight  the  next  morn- 
ing, and  after  an  hour’s  steaming  we  sighted  a low,  level  tract 
of  land  right  ahead,  in  which  there  was  an  opening  some 
three-fourths  of  a mile  in  width — the  mouth  of  the  Liau 
river. 

On  approaching  nearer  to  the  land  we  saw  a vast  plain, 
stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  destitute  of 
vegetation  with  the  exception  of  a few  trees  and  shrubs. 
Although  less  than  fifteen  miles  distant  we  were  upwards  of 
three  hours  in  reaching  the  town,  on  account  of  the  strong 
current  of  the  river.  About  half  a mile  in  breadth,  stretch- 
ing along  the  left  bank  for  upwards  of  two  miles,  we  saw  an 
unwalled  Chinese  town,  the  houses  low,  small,  and  mean,  not 
presenting  a single  attractive  feature.  The  bank  of  the  river 
in  front  was  lined  with  crowds  of  Chinese,  evidently  viewing 
us  with  great  wonder  and  curiosity. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  we  saw  about  a dozen  one- 
story  buildings,  of  mud  and  brick,  surrounded  by  walls  of 
the  same  material,  which  we  afterwards  learned  was  the  for- 
eign quarter.  From  the  flag-staffs  in  the  yards  were  floating 
the  ensigns  of  three  or  four  countries,  indicating  the  consu- 
lates. We  dropped  anchor  opposite  the  American  consulate, 
some  three  or  four  hundred  yards  from  the  shore.  Soon  af- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


181 


ter  anchoring  the  Consul  came  on  board  and  was  saluted 
with  seven  guns.  From  some  of  the  visitors  which  came 
later  in  the  day,  I ascertained  the  name  and  condition  of  the 
place,  and  the  cause  of  our  coming  here. 

The  foreign  population  numbers  forty -five  persons,  the 
greater  portion  of  whom  are  Americans.  Only  five  of  the 
number  are  females,  and  there  are  five  or  six  children. 

The  town  is  usually  called  Newchwang,  but  the  proper 
town  of  that  name  is  several  miles  farther  up  the  river,  and 
this — Yingtse — is  its  seaport.  The  town,  with  everything 
about  it,  is  built  of  mud,  and  when  the  weather  is  dry  it  is 
at  times  almost  concealed  by  the  clouds  of  dust  which  are 
raised  by  the  wind,  and  which  even  enveloped  us  at  times. 
The  narrow  point  of  land  within  the  horse-shoe  curve  of  the 
river  above  the  city,  is  the  only  attractive  feature  in  the 
landscape.  That  is  fresh  and  green  with  the  young  paddy. 

A band  of  robbers — “ land  pirates,”  they  call  them — have 
established  themselves  here,  and  go  about  the  town  and 
neighboring  villages  plundering  the  inhabitants  of  money 
and  such  other  articles  as  they  require.  Their  number  is 
estimated  at  from  fifty  to  two  hundred.  Their  stronghold  is 
located  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and  the  ruling  manda- 
rin either  is  powerless  to  break  up  this  band,  or  is  kept  from 
doing  so  by  sums  paid  him ; the  latter,  I think,  is  the  most 
probable.  Their  depredations  have  usually  been  confined  to 
the  Chinese,  but  a short  time  since  they  committed  some  out- 
rages upon  the  Consul’s  boys,  or  servants,  and  upon  his 
interfering,  the  pirates  turned  upon  the  Europeans,  threaten- 
ing to  murder  them,  and  carried  off  some  articles  belonging 
to  them.  To  recover  these,  an  expedition  consisting  of  all 
the  Europeans  in  the  place,  together  with  the  sailors  from  the 
two  or  three  merchant  vessels  in  port,  was  formed  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Knight — the  American  Consul.  But  the 
expedition  was  defeated  and  obliged  to  retire  with  several 
wounded.  Thus  matters  stood  when  we  arrived  here. 


182 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


After  thoroughly  investigating  the  affair,  Captain  Towns- 
end, about  two  weeks  ago,  told  the  Tau  Tai — Chinese  ruler  of 
Yingtse — that  if  he  could  not  break  up  this  band  of  robbers, 
he,  the  Captain,  would  do  so  for  him.  The  Tau  Tai,  appar- 
ently, availed  himself  of  this  offer  with  thankfulness,  and 
gave  the  Captain  full  authority  for  doing  so.  After  a day  or 
two  spent  in  making  preparations,  a little  after  midnight, 
Monday,  June  25th,  all  hands  were  called,  as  silently  as  pos- 
sible, and  about  a hundred  of  us  armed  and  equipped  for  the 
expedition.  We  were  landed  in  front  of  the  Consul’s,  where 
we  formed,  and  then  moved  forward  in  silence  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Philip,  our  object  being  to  surprise  them  if 
possible.  Mr.  Knight,  and  Mr.  Davenport,  the  English  Con- 
sul, accompanied  the  expedition  as  interpreters.  The  Doc- 
tor, three  or  four  of  our  officers,  and  a few  citizens,  also 
went  with  us. 

After  marching  about  three  fourths  of  an  hour  we  were 
brought  to  a halt  at  the  lower  outskirts  of  the  town,  before  a 
low,  irregular  pile  of  buildings,  surrounded  by  a high,  thick, 
brick  wall.  This  was  the  stronghold  of  the  celebrated  and 
much-dreaded  pirate  chief — Hu,  “ The  Long  Knife  Man  ” — 
and  his  band.  We  were  now  deployed  so  as  to  surround  the 
stronghold,  and  then,  leaving  the  remainder  to  guard  all 
points  of  egress,  the  ladders  were  brought  and  a party  of  us 
scaled  the  walls.  In  spite  of  the  barking  of  dogs  and  the 
shots  fired  to  alarm  them,  they  wrere  fairly  surprised — 
probably  never  dreaming  of  such  an  expedition  against  them 
at  such  an  hour,  until  we  burst  open  the  doors  and  took  them 
prisoners.  And  well  for  us  was  it  that  we  had  succeeded  in 
doing  this,  for  in  every  apartment  were  found  jimgalls , freshly 
loaded,  with  a great  number  of  spears,  swords,  and  two  small 
pieces  of  cannon.  For  a short  time  it  was  rather  warm  quar- 
ters; but  we  soon  overpowered  them,  with  no  injury  to  our- 
selves. When  the  prisoners  were  examined  by  the  Consuls 
they  said  that  the  leader  was  not  among  them,  but  were  con- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


183 


fident  that  he  was  somewhere  in  the  stronghold.  At  last  two 
of  us  found  him  concealed  in  a small  room  under  a pile  of  bed- 
clothes. He  made  some  show  of  resistance  with  a short  sword 
which  he  had,  but  a blow  from  the  butt  of  my  musket  soon 
put  an  end  to  it.  The  Consuls  recognized  him  by  a fresh 
bullet  wound  in  his  ankle  received  in  the  late  encounter.  In 
the  same  room  we  found  a large  quantity  of  arms  concealed 
under  a pile  of  bamboos. 

The  prisoners  were  taken  to  the  street  and  then  the  build- 
ing ransacked,  and  all  the  arms,  of  which  there  was  a great 
quantity,  removed.  Only  twenty-six  were  taken,  the  re- 
mainder of  the  band  being  away  on  one  of  their  marauding 
expeditions.  Having  accomplished  the  object  of  our  expedi- 
tion, we  set  out  to  return,  the  prisoners  carrying  the  arms 
and  wounded  upon  litters. 

By  this  time  it  was  daylight,  and  as  we  returned  through 
the  town  the  sides  of  the  streets  were  thronged  with  Chi- 
nese— the  news  of  our  midnight  sortie  and  its  success,  having 
been  circulated — and  as  we  passed  we  were  greeted  with 
cheers,  and  there  was  an  expression  of  joy  on  every  face. 
After  several  halts  for  the  prisoners  to  rest,  we  at  length  ar- 
rived at  the  American  Consul’s,  and  alter  “ Splicing  the  Main 
Brace,”  we  returned  on  board  ship,  bringing  the  prisoners 
and  captured  arms  with  us.  In  the  afternoon  the  Captain 
paid  an  official  visit  to  the  Tau  Tai,  announcing  the  success  . 
of  the  expedition. 

The  following  day  the  trial  of  the  prisoners  commenced, 
Captain  Townsend  and  the  Consuls  sitting  as  judges  with  the 
Tau  Tai.  An  armed  party  from  the  ship  attended  every 
day,  so  that  we  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  some  of  the 
Chinese  methods  of  torture  and  execution.  In  revolting 

O 

cruelty  some  of  them  would  rival  any  of  those  practiced  dur- 
ing the  dark  ages.  They  are  almost  too  horrible  for  narra- 
tion. I had  no  idea  that  the  Chinese  could  remain  so  firm 
and  stoical  under  torture,  as  I saw  them  then ; for,  although 


184 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


suffering  untold  agonies,  only  two  or  three  could  be  made 
to  confess  anything,  and  that  was  meagre  and  unsatisfactory. 
Iso  person  is  condemned  but  upon  his  own  confession.  How- 
ever, as  torture  is  always  used  in  all  their  trials,  many  inno- 
cent persons  confess  crimes  they  never  committed,  in  order 
to  escape  the  tortures.  Nothing  is  gained  by  confession,  un- 
less it  is  immediate  death  instead  of  a lingering  one. 

The  thumb-screw  and  whipping-machine  were  the  most 
common  instruments  of  torture  employed.  The  thumb-screw 
is  so  constructed  that  after  it  is  fitted  the  bones  can  be  crushed 
by  turning  a screw — causing  the  most  intense  agony.  The 
whipping  machine  consists  of  a wheel,  in  the  rim  of  which 
strips  of  bamboo  about  four  feet  in  length  are  inserted.  This 
is  placed  so  that  in  turning  the  wheel  these  strips  are  caught 
by  a cross-bar  and  drawn  back,  so  as  to  spring  forward  with 
great  force.  To  undergo  this  mode  of  torture  the  victim  is 
stripped  to  the  waist,  strapped  to  a board,  and  so  placed  that 
the  bamboo  strips  will  strike  with  full  force  upon  him.  The 
wheel  is  then  turned  until  the  flesh  is  lacerated  to  the 
bones,  then  a fresh  spot  is  taken,  and  the  operation  repeated 
until  the  victim  either  faints  or  expires  from  pain  and  loss  of 
blood.  Beside  these,  I saw  them  cut  off  the  nose  and  ears, 
and  pull  out  the  nails,  to  induce  confession. 

After  witnessing  these  barbarities  for  a day,  Captain 
Townsend  said  that  he  could  and  would  endure  the  sight  no 
longer,  nor  would  he  have  anything  further  to  do  with  the 
trial.  Accordingly  he  delivered  the  prisoners  up  to  the  Tau 
Tai,  leaving  him  to  do  with  them  as  he  might  deem  proper. 
They  were  all  tried,  and  executed,  with  the  exception  of 
those  that  expired  under  the  tortures.  The  whole  trial  was 
a mere  farce,  all  the  proceedings  being  an  endeavor  to  force 
them  to  confess.  Those  who  did  so  were  immediately  exe- 
cuted, while  those  who  did  not  were  executed  just  the  same. 

I witnessed  the  execution  of  two  pirates,  which  took  place 
in  the  square  near  the  Tau  Tai’s.  One  of  them  was  be- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


185 


headed ; but  the  other  was  placed  in  a case  exactly  fitting 
his  body,  and  then  commencing  at  the  foot  it  was  screwed  up 
by  inches.  Very  few  of  those  condemned  to  death  enjoy  the 
privilege  of  being  immediately  executed ; but  are  frequently 
made  to  endure  days  of  lingering  torments  before  death 
finally  puts  an  end  to  their  sufferings. 

It  is  a lamentable  fact,  that  while  the  Chinese  have  so 
many  traits  of  character  that  would  bear  a favorable  compar- 
ison with  civilized  and  refined  nations,  they  should  practice 
barbarities  which  are  no  more  than  equaled  by  the  most  de- 
graded and  brutish  savages.  In  defense,  they  say  that  it  is 
“ ola  custom,”  and  that  the  most  stringent  measures  in  the 
punishment  of  crime  are  necessary  to  preserve  law  and  order 
throughout  so  extensive  a country,  with  such  an  immense 
population.  I am  not  sure  but  that  in  the  main  they  are 
right,  and  that  we  cannot  expect  a different  state  of  affairs, 
until  the  Gospel,  with  its  enlightening  rays,  shall  have  pen- 
etrated their  hearts  and  consciences,  and  thrown  down  the 
barriers  of  superstition  and  crime  which  idolatry  has  erected. 
Then,  and  not  till  then,  can  we  expect  that  the  milder  and 
more  human  laws  of  civilized  countries  will  take  the  place  of 
“ ola  custom.” 

There  are  now  lying  before  me  on  the  table  at  which  I 
am  writing,  several  strings  of  dirty,  green,  greasy-looking 
copper  coin,  each  one  about  the  size  of  a ten-cent  piece,  hav- 
ing a square  hole  perforated  through  the  centre,  and  with  two 
or  three  Chinese  characters  on  each  side.  The  coin  is  called 
“cash,”  and  about  ten  or  eleven  hundred  of  them  make  the 
value  of  one  dollar.  They  are  strung  on  bamboo  fibres  in 
masses  of  one  hundred  each,  each  mass  called  a “mace.” 
This  small  coin,  this,  in  value,  infinitesimal  coin,  is  a medium 
of  currency  among  the  Chinese,  and  is  an  index  of  the  low 
cost  of  their  subsistence.  One  hundred  “cash”  are  consid- 
ered a large  daily  expenditure  among  the  Chinese,  and  in- 
stances are  spoken  of  where  only  ten  or  fifteen  are  used. 
9* 


186 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


The  money  we  have  served  out  to  us  from  the  ship  is  Mexi- 
can dollars,  and  as  there  is  little  or  no  fractional  currency 
here,  we  have  to  take  large  bundles  of  these  “cash”  for 
change,  or  else  cut  up  a dollar  into  small  bits,  which  we  some- 
times do.  In  Macao  I received  for  change  chopped  bits  of  a 
dollar,  weighed,  and  then  labeled  with  the  amount,  and  from 
whom  obtained.  In  large  business  transactions  the  Chinese 
use  bars  or  ingots  of  silver  stamped  with  the  value  in  taels, 
each  tael  being  worth  about  one  and  one-third  dollars.  They 
have  had  no  gold  currency  for  several  centuries,  and  I have 
never  met  a person  that  has  ever  seen  one  of  their  gold  coins. 

Near  the  commencement  of  this  letter  I made  mention  of 
the  strong  current  in  the  river,  which  at  times  runs  as  fast  as 
six  knots  per  hour.  There  is  also  said  to  be  a strong  under- 
current. As  I was  walking  up  and  down  the  gangway  on 
watch,  Tuesday,  May  15th,  the  quarter-master  sang  out — 
“A  man  overboard!”  Running  upon  the  poop,  I found  that 
a junk,  in  passing  our  stern,  had  run  into  the  dingey,  fastened 
there  by  a “ painter,”  and  had  thrown  Breems,  the  boat-keeper, 
into  the  water.  A crew  immediately  sprang  into  the  cutter 
which  was  lying  there,  but  before  they  had  proceeded  a boat’s 
length,  Breems,  although  the  best  swimmer  in  the  ship,  sank 
with  a cry,  and  was  not  seen  to  rise  again.  He  was  doubtless 
dragged  down  by  the  under-tow.  O ther  boats  were  dispatched 
to  different  points  along  the  beach  in  hopes  that  he  might  be 
found  upon  it,  but  he  was  not;  and,  although  a rigid  search 
has  been  kept  up,  his  body  has  not  yet  been  recovered.  I 
have  seen  death  in  many  forms,  but  never  in  so  sad  a manner 
as  this — a ship-mate  drowning  alongside  his  ship  in  broad 
daylight,  while  the  vessel  was  lying  at  anchor,  and  yet  nothing 
that  could  be  done  to  save  him. 

Breems  was  born  in  Germany,  but  the  greater  portion  of 
his  life  was  passed  in  France,  where  he  received  his  educa- 
tion. He  was  about  twenty  years  of  age,  fine  looking,  well 
educated,  and  in  every  respect  an  estimable  young  man.  He 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


187 


was  a good  ship-mate,  and  much  esteemed  by  all.  For  my 
part  I have  lost  in  him  a dear  friend,  to  whom  I was  much 
attached.  I have  also  lost  a good  and  kind  teacher,  who  was 
ever  ready  to  assist  me  in  my  French  studies,  and  to  whose 
abilities  I owe  my  proficiency  in  the  language. 

A week  or  two  later  a boat  containing  two  English  sailors 
and  three  Chinamen  was  capsized  alongside  the  ship  lying  at 
anchor  below  us,  and  not  one  of  the  number  rescued.  I 
have  been  told  by  an  old  resident  that  he  never  saw  one  res- 
cued that  fell  in  the  river  here,  and  he  had  seen  a great  many 
perish. 

About  two  weeks  of  our  stay  here  has  been  occupied  in 
surveying  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  placing  buoys 
to  point  out  the  channel.  Three  buoys  have  been  put  down 
with  two  anchors,  the  bearings  and  course  of  the  channel  ac- 
curately taken,  and  hereafter  vessels  going  in  and  out  of  the 
harbor  will  be  freed  from  the  difficulties  and  dangers  which 
they  have  hitherto  encountered.  Great  credit  is  due  Captain 
Townsend  and  the  Board  of  Survey  for  their  efforts,  and  the 
success  which  has  attended  them. 

A few  days  ago  the  Tau  Tai  paid  us  a visit.  He  is  a fine 
looking  Chinaman,  in  rank  a mandarin  of  the  third  class. 
The  insignia  of  his  rank  are  a sapphire  and  a one-eyed  pea- 
cock feather  on  his  hat,  a peacock  worked  on  the  breast  and 
back  of  his  robe,  and  his  girdle-clasp  of  gold.  The  title  of 
Tau  Tai  is  given  to  the  ruler  of  a town  or  portion  of  a prov- 
ince. His  retinue  was  similar  to  that  of  the  governor  of 
Canton,  but  consisted  of  less  exalted  personages.  He  thor- 
oughly examined  every  thing  about  the  ship  with  much  curi- 
osity and  interest,  and  appeared  quite  pleased  with  his  visit. 

Among  the  interesting  incidents  of  our  stay  here  were  the 
many  boat  expeditions  and  target  practices  which  we  had, 
making  our  long  stay  less  monotonous  than  it  otherwise  would 
have  been.  In  the  early  part  of  our  stay  the  consul  presented 
the  captain  with  a large  black  bear,  which  has  produced  much 


188 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


diversion  for  all.  He  is  a tame,  playful  animal,  ever  ready 
for  a frolic  with  any  one.  Jocko  sits  and  watches  him  for 
hours,  sometimes,  with  evident  dislike,  but  he  has  a rival  now 
whom  he  can  not  annoy  or  injure. 

Since  we  have  been  on  the  station  we  have  had  a great 
number  of  court-martials  for  different  misdemeanors,  the  most 
common  of  which  has  been  “taking  French  leave.”  The  sen- 
tences have  usually  been  light,  such  as  the  loss  of  a month’s 
pay,  or  thirty  days  in  the  “ brig.” 

Yesterday  was  more  appropriately  celebrated  than  was 
“ Independence  Day  ” of  one  year  ago.  We  “ dressed  ship  ” 
at  sunrise,  as  did  also  the  few  merchant-men  in  the  harbor, 
and  ashore  the  consuls’  flag-staffs  were  gay  with  many-colored 
flags  and  streamers.  At  noon  we  fired  a salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns.  All  the  messes  had  a grand  dinner,  and  ales  and 
champagne  were  abundant.  In  the  evening  I went  ashore 
and  fired  off  thirty-five  bunches  of  fire-crackers — a bunch  for 
each  state.  For  the  whole  I paid  about  three  mace.  I won- 
der what  the  boys  at  home  would  think  of  purchasing  fire- 
crackers at  that  price. 

One  of  the  chief  unpleasantnesses  of  our  stay  here  has  been 
entire  absence  from  mail  communication.  We  have  been  un- 
able to  send  or  receive  letters,  and,  for  that  reason,  I am  glad 
that  to-morrow  we  are  to  leave  for  the  southward.  I hear 
that  we  are  to  proceed  to  Shanghai,  making  two  or  three  stop- 
pages on  the  coast  on  our  way  down. 


ANI)  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


189 


LETTER  XX. 


My  Dear  R. : 


U.  S.  S.  Wachtjsett,  Chefoo,  > 
July  20th,  1866.  f 


We  did  not  leave  Newchwang  until  Monday  morning,  July 
7th,  when  we  started,  having  Mr.  Knight  and  Mr.  Davenport 
on  board  as  passengers.  When  I went  on  deck  the  next 
morning  I saw  that  we  were  steering  to  the  northward  again. 
Upon  inquiring  the  reason,  I was  told  that  we  had  passed  the 
point  where  the  Great  Wall  touches  the  sea  sometime  during 
the  night,  and  that  we  were  going  back  then,  as  the  captain 
wished  to  see  it  himself,  and  give  the  officers  and  crew  an 
opportunity  for  beholding  it  also. 

About  nine  o’clock  it  was  sighted  from  the  mast-head,  and, 
going  up  into  the  rigging,  I beheld  the  world-renowned  “Great 
Wall,”  some  ten  or  fifteen  miles  distant,  scaling  the  precipices 
and  topping  the  craggy  hills,  which  have  along  the  coast  a 
a most  desolate  appearance.  It  extends  along  the  coast  for 
several  miles,  and  terminates  near  the  beach  in  an  old  Chinese 
fortress.  About  noon  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  lovely  little 
harbor  of  Tungtse-kau,  which  marks  its  termination.  By 
observation  Mr.  Grove  ascertained  our  anchorage  to  be  in 
Latitude  40°  4'  North,  and  Longitude  120°  2'  East.  The 
cutters  were  immediately  called  away,  and  a party  of  us  went 
ashore  to  examine  it.  The  spot  where  we  landed  was  near 
the  gateway  of  the  old  fortress.  Inside  the  fort  we  saw  a 
fine  building,  where  the  emperor  resides  when  he  makes  a 
fishing  excursion  to  the  bay  of  Tungtse-kau.  Near  the  build- 
ing is  an  old  pagoda,  built  upwards  of  one  thousand  years 
ago.  After  seeing  every  thing  worthy  of  interest  there,  we 
set  out  upon  a ramble  along  the  top  of  the  wall. 


190 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


“The  Great  Wall,”  called  Wan-li -chang  (i.  e .,  Myriad 
Mile  Wall)  by  the  Chinese,  was  built  by  Tsin-Chi-hwangti, 
about  the  year  220  B.  C.,  to  protect  his  domains  from  the 
excursions  of  the  northern  tribes.  Almost  every  third  man 
throughout  the  empire  was  drafted  for  its  construction,  and 
being  but  poorly  supplied  with  provisions  many  died  in  the 
work.  On  this  account  the  Chinese  speak  of  it  as  “The  ruin 
of  one  generation,  and  the  salvation  of  thousands.”  The 
former  may  be  true,  but  the  latter  will  admit  of  some  ques- 
tioning, as  the  Tartars  have  several  times  invaded  China, 
notwithstanding  this  barrier,  and  are  now  in  possession  of  the 
empire. 

“It  is  sufficient  evidence  of  the  solidity  of  its  original 
construction,  that  it  has  remained  so  well-preserved  in  a re- 
gion of  frosts  and  moisture.  Its  entire  length  is  estimated 
at  twelve  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  including  all  the  doublings. 
The  construction  of  this  gigantic  work  is  somewhat  adapted  to 
the  nature  of  the  country  it  traverses.  In  the  western  part 
of  its  course  it  is  said  to  be  in  many  places  merely  a mud  or 
gravel  wall,  and  in  others  cased  with  brick.”  The  portion 
that  we  visited  was  composed  of  a mound  of  earth  and  pebbles, 
faced  with  brick  masonry  supported  on  a coping  of  stone, 
the  whole  being  about  thirty  feet  thick  at  the  base,  twenty  at 
the  top,  and  varying  from  twenty-five  to  forty  feet  in  height. 
The  top  is  terraced  with  tiles  and  defended  by  a slight  para- 
pet, the  thinness  of  which  may  be  taken  as  evidence  that 
cannon  were  unknown  at  the  time  the  wall  was  erected. 
There  are  brick  towers  at  different  intervals,  some  of  them 
more  than  forty  feet  high,  but  the  usual  elevation  is  some- 
what under  that.  They  are  independent  structures,  built 
against  the  wall  instead  of  upon  it,  usually  about  forty  feet 
square  at  the  base,  and  diminishing  to  thirty  at  the  top.  In 
these  towers  guards  were  stationed  and  arms  kept.  On 
either  .side,  as  far  as  we  went,  the  land  is  fertile  and  in  a high 
state  of  cultivation.  After  walking  along  upon  the  top  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


191 


the  wall  for  four  or  five  miles,  we  returned  and  found  that 
the  painters  had  finished  putting  our  ship’s  name  and  the 
date  of  our  visit,  in  ten  foot  letters,  upon  the  wall.  We  then 
carved  our  names  upon  it  with  knives,  and  returned  on  board 
the  ship.  For  mementoes  each  of  us  secured  a brick,  and  I, 
in  addition,  took  away  a dog-like  image  from  one  of  the 
many  niches  along  the  wall.  As  I looked  over  the  bulwarks 
strange  thoughts  came  over  me,  in  comparing  what  must 
have  been  its  former  life  and  animation,  with  its  present  de- 
sertion and  quietude. 

Beside  the  name  and  date  of  visit  of  our  vessel,  there 
were  those  of  a Prussian  Frigate,  an  English  Sloop,  and  a 
French  Corvette.  The  Wachusett  is  the  first  American 
war  vessel  that  has  visited  the  spot,  and  I would  not  have 
missed  of  this  pleasure  for  a large  sum.  It  will  be  something 
worth  boasting  of — the  visit  to  and  ramble  on  the  “ Great 
Wall.”  It  was  about  four  o’clock  when  we  returned  to  the 
ship,  and  half  an  hour  later  we  were  under  way,  standing  to 
the  southward. 

At  two  o’clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day,  we 
came  to  anchor  at  Takoo,  a small  town  on  the  northern  bank 
of  the  Pe-ho  river,  near  where  it  empties  its  waters  into  the 
gulf  of  Pe-che-le.  On  account  of  the  shallowness  of  the 
water  we  were  unable  to  approach  within  five  miles  of  the 
shore.  At  anchor  there  we  found  five  or  six  merchant  ves- 
sels, a French,  and  an  English  Corvette.  The  country 
around  Takoo  .presents  a barren,  sterile  appearance.  The 
scenery  is  said  to  improve  as  one  advances  up  the  river  and 
approaches  Tientsin.  The  size  and  importance  of  this  city 
are  owing  to  its  being  the  terminus  of  the  Grand  Canal,  and 
the  place  where  the  produce  and  taxes  for  the  use  of  the 
Capital  are  brought.  The  mouth  of  the  river  is  guarded  by 
two  strong  Chinese  fortresses,  the  first  that  we  have  seen 
that  were  not  deserted.  Takoo  is  chiefly  noted  as  a stopping 
place  for  those  going  to  and  from  the  Capital,  and  as  a point 


192 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


of  embarkation.  It  is  also  worthy  of  note  as  the  spot  where 
the  first  interview  between  the  English  and  Chinese  pleni- 
potentiaries was  held,  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  in  18  40 
The  most  important  feature  of  our  visit  to  Takoo,  my  mem-  ' 
ory  will  ever  assert  to  be  those  large,  delicious  peaches  which 
two  junks  brought  along  side.  They  were  the  finest  and 
most  delicate-flavored  peaches  that  I ever  tasted.  Our  ob- 
ject in  calling  at  Takoo  was  to  land  Mr.  Davenport,  and 
this  being  accomplished,  we  got  under  way  again  just  before 
dark. 

On  the  evening  of  July  10th,  we  arrived  off  the  mouth 
of  the  harbor  of  Chefoo.  Some  thoughts  were  entertained 
of  “lying  off”  until  the  following  morning,  but  we  finally 
concluded  to  enter.  This  we  did,  under  the  charge  of  the 
compradore  who  came  out  to  meet  us.'  As  soon  as  we  had 
anchored  a boat  was  sent  ashore  to  the  Consul’s  for  the  mail, 
which  had  been  forwarded  there  from  Shanghai,  and  again 
we  were  rejoiced  by  news  of  our  friends,  and  that  we  were 
held  in  continued  remembrance  by  them. 

The  harbor  here  is  nearly  semicircular  in  form,  about  twenty 
miles  in  circumference,  facing  toward  the  north.  Across  the 
mouth,  stretches  a long,  narrow,  rocky  island,  adjoining 
which  are  two  or  three  smaller  ones,  leaving  at  each  side  of 
the  group  but  a narrow  entrance,  so  that  the  harbor  is  nearly 
land-locked,  and  very  secure.  The  view  is  shut  in  upon  all 
sides  by  barren  mountains ; but  at  the  foot  of  them,  where 
the  town,  or  rather  towns — for  there  are  two — stand,  is  a 
plain  some  three  or  four  miles  in  width,  curving  around  the 
bay  on  the  southern  and  western  sides.  It  is  quite  fertile 
and  in  a high  state  of  cultivation.  There  is  a large  amount 
of  shipping  in  the  harbor,  loading  with  silk,  oilcake,  and 
walnuts,  which  form  the  chief  articles  of  export. 

The  principal  town  lies  back,  on  a small  bight,  and  con- 
sists of  some  thirty  or  forty  unassuming  European  residences, 
and  a large,  unwalled,  Chinese  town.  The  English  consulate 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


193 


occupies  the  most  prominent  site  in  the  place — the  summit  of 
a small  promontory  which  juts  out  into  the  sea,  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  a low,  narrow  isthmus.  The 
•population  is  estimated  at  twenty  thousand,  of  which  only 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  are  foreigners.  The  proper 
name  of  the  town  of  which  I have  been  speaking,  is  Yen-tai, 
the  little  village  of  Chefoo  being  on  the  western  side  of  the 
bay,  but  the  former  is  usually  called  by  the  name  of  the 
latter.  Provisions  here  are  very  good  and  quite  cheap,  the 
climate  delightful,  and  I should  prefer  remaining  here  dur- 
ing the  summer  months  to  going  farther  to  the  southward.  • 

The  third  day  after  our  arrival,  the  Consul,  accompanied 
by  a missionary,  came  on  board,  and  told  the  Captain  that 
there  was  some  trouble  at  Tung-chow-foo,  and  wanted  him  to 
go  up  there  with  the  ship  and  settle  it.  So  we  weighed 
anchor  and  went  up  there — about  forty  miles  in  a northerly 
direction — that  same  day,  and  came  to  anchor  about  a mile 
from  the  city.  The  cutters  were  immediately  sent  in  shore 
to  take  soundings,  and  they  found  that  the  water  was  deep 
enough  to  float  us  within  a few  yards  of  the  beach. 

Tung-chow-foo  is  a pretty  walled  town,  about  three  miles 
in  circumference,  and  situated  close  to  the  beach,  on  the  edge 
of  a fertile,  highly  cultivated,  and  exceedingly  picturesque 
plain,  extending  back  some  three  or  four  miles  to  the  foot  of 
a barren,  lofty  range  of  mountains.  The  harbor  is  a mere 
roadstead  between  the  mainland  and  a long,  barren,  moun- 
tainous island,  some  three  or  four  miles  removed.  We  were 
the  sole  occupants,  not  a junk  or  a boat  being  in  sight.  The 
following  day  three  missionaries  came  on  board,  from  one  of 
whom  I learned  the  difficulty.  They,  with  their  families, 
were  the  only  foreign  residents — a mission  station  having 
been  located  there  for  many  years.  Some  time  ago  they 
purchased  a piece  of  land  from  the  Tau  Tai,  and  now,  after 
they  had  improved  and  built  upon  it,  he  wished  to  take  it 
back,  threatening  to  kill  them  if  they  should  refuse.  Besides 


194 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


this,  the  Chinese  had  desecrated  the  graves  of  the  mission- 
aries buried  there. 

Early  Saturday  morning,  July  1 4th,  “ word  was  passed  ” 
for  all  those  who  were  ashore  on  the  expedition  at  Newch- 
wang,  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness  to  go  ashore  at  Tung- 
chow-foo.  Accordingly  we  were  provided  with  arms  and 
ammunition,  and  at  eleven  o’clock  about  one  hundred  of  us — 
sailors  and  marines — set  out  for  the  shore  in  the  cutters  and 
launches.  As  we  approached  the  walls  we  found  that  there 
was  an  entrance  to  the  city  by  water — there  being  a canal 
and  water-gate  at  the  northwestern  corner,  closed  by  two 
heavy  iron-ribbed  doors,  and  guarded  on  either  side  by  two 
high  stone  towers,  from  which  missiles  that  would  crush  any- 
thing passing  could  be  hurled.  Entering  the  city  by  this 
canal,  we  found  a lovely  sheet  of  water,  occupying  about 
one-lialf  of  the  central  area  of  the  space  enclosed  by  walls, 
crowded  with  junks  and  smaller  craft.  We  landed  at  a little 
pier  just  inside  the  gateway,  and  leaving  the  boats  under  the 
charge  of  armed  keepers,  formed  under  command  of  Mr. 
Philip,  on  an  eminence  near  which  stands  the  principal  tem- 
ple of  the  city.  There  we  were  joined  by  the  Captain,  and 
one  of  the  missionaries  who  was  to  act  as  guide. 

Having  formed,  with  fife  and  drum  playing  a lively  air, 
we  marched  through  the  principal  streets  en  route  for  the 
Tau  Tai’s.  Every  house,  and  the  sides  of  the  streets  along 
our  route  were  thronged  with  curious  Chinese,  it  probably 
being  the  first  time  that  the  sound  of  the  fife  and  drum  and 
the  tramp  of  armed  men  had  ever  disturbed  their  streets. 
I wonder  what  our  government  or  our  people  at  home  would 
think  should  an  armed  body  of  foreigners  thus  land  and 
march  through  the  streets  of  some  of  their  principal  cities  ! 

After  marching  through  numerous  dirty  alley-ways,  and  a 
few  fine  streets,  we  at  length  emerged  from  the  city  through 
a strongly  fortified  gate  into  the  western  suburbs.  After  pro- 
ceeding a few  yards  further,  we  came  to  a halt  before  a small 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


195 


chapel  and  the  residence  of  the  widow  of  one  of  the  missiona- 
ries recently  murdered  by  the  Chinese.  There  we  remained 
a few  minutes  to  rest,  and  receive  a glass  of  water  which  was 
kindly  brought  us  by  the  lady’s  servants.  Another  half 
hour’s  march  brought  us  to  the  Tau  Tai’s,  in  whose  yard  we 
stacked  arms  and  broke  ranks.  Seldom  have  I seen  more 
beautiful  grounds  than*  those  of  the  Tau  Tai  at  Tung-chow- 
foo.  They  are  extensive,  filled  with  large  trees  and  beauti- 
ful shrubbery,  tastefully  laid  out  in  charming  walks,  and 
everywhere  is  the  tall,  green  grass.  There  we  remained 
while  the  Captain  and  Missionaries  transacted  their  busi- 
ness with  the  Tau  Tai.  And  you  may  believe  that  we  did 
enjoy  ourselves ! Could  you  have  seen  us  rolling  about  in 
the  grass,  climbing  the  trees,  and  riding  the  mandarin’s  horses, 
you  would  have  taken  us  for  a troop  of  schoolboys  instead  of 
man-of-war’s  men,  who  are  generally  supposed  to  have  na- 
tures utterly  unable  to  take  pleasure  in  any  of  those  childish 
sports.  Let  that  be  as  it  may,  we  all  were,  children  for  a 
time,  in  thoughts  as  well  as  actions,  and  for  a time  we  had 
that  perfect  happiness  which  is  said  to  belong  to  childhood 
alone.  Large  baskets  of  peaches  were  brought  to  us,  and 
everything  tended  to  make  the  remembrance  of  our  visit  there 
a delightful  one. 

After  remaining  about  two  hours,  the  business  was  all  sat- 
isfactorily settled,  and  the  “ long  roll”  sounded  for  us  to  “fall 
in.”  A march  of  about  fifteen  minutes  brought  us  to  the  res- 
idences and  grounds  of  the  missionaries,  where  we  were  agree- 
ably  surprised  by  finding  an  inviting  supper  awaiting  us  on 
tables  underneath  the  fine  shade-trees  in  the  yard.  To  this 
we  sat  down,  after  stacking  arms  and  breaking  ranks.  There 
was  an  abundance  of  everything  that  was  good ; the  ladies 
anticipated  and  supplied  our  every  want,  and  everything 
within  their  power  was  done  to  heighten  our  enjoyment. 

The  supper  over,  we  had  a look  over  the  grounds.  These 
comprise  about  ten  acres,  beautifully  situated  upon  a slight 


196 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


eminence,  and  commanding  one  of  the  most  charming  and  pic- 
turesque^ prospects  that  can  be  found.  The  missionaries  raise 
the  greater  portion  of  their  subsistence,  and  their  crops  are  at 
the  present  time  nearly  ripe.  The  buildings  are  large,  commo- 
dious, and  Anglo-Chinese  in  architecture.  Their  school  is 
composed  of  about  forty  scholars,  which  are  instructed  in  both 
English  and  Chinese.  Among  the  pupils  I noticed  several 
uncommonly  bright  and  intelligent-looking  ones,  two  or  three 
of  whom  are  to  be  sent  to  the  States  to  finish  their  education. 

At  Tung-chow-foo  there  are  four  missionaries  and  their 
families  ; and,  although  they  are  deprived  of  many  privileges 
and  enjoyments,  separated  as  they  are  from  civilized  and 
Christian  people,  and  surrounded  by  heathen  Chinese,  they 
can  still  draw  much  pleasure  from  the  society  of  one  another, 
and  the  many  beauties  of  nature  by  which  they  are  sur- 
rounded. Above  all  can  they  find  comfort  and  happiness  in 
communing  with  Him  to  whose  service  they  are  devoting 
their  all,  and  wTho  will  comfort  and  sustain  them  through  their 
many  trials  and  privations,  and  at  last  fully  reward  them  for 
all  that  they  have  done  and  suffered  for  His  sake  in  this  life. 

I think  that  there  wras  a feeling  of  regret  experienced  by 
all  when  the  “ long  roll  ” sounded,  and  told  us  that  we  must 
bid  them  all  “ good-bye.”  This  was  done  after  “ falling  in,” 
singing  the  Star  Spangled  Banner,  and  returning  thanks  for 
the  pleasure  that  we  had  received  at  their  hands.  As  we 
returned  to  the  ship,  all  were  revolving  in  their  minds  the 
deep  pleasure  they  had  received  from  the  excursion  into  which 
our  expedition  had  so  happily  turned.  The  following  day 
we  returned  to  Chefoo. 

Tuesday  the  17th,  was  spent  by  the  crew  in  “ coaling  ship,” 
and  by  a friend  and  myself  in  a ramble  on  shore.  After  a 
look  at  the  town,  which  we  found  to  be  very  mean  in  appear- 
ance, and  very  dirty  in  fact,  we  commenced  to  search  for 
something  to  interest  and  amuse  us.  A Mandarin  traveling 
in  state  was  the  first  thing  that  rewarded  our  search.  In 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


197 


front  were  two  criers  or  heralds,  crying  out  the  Mandarin’s 
rank,  and  also  clearing  the  way.  Following  these  were  two 
executioners  with  black  official  caps,  and  behind  them  two 
torturers  with  red  official  caps,  they  as  well  as  the  execu- 
tioners bearing  the  tools  of  their  profession.  Next  came 
three  or  four  musicians  with  gongs  and  cymbals,  followed  by 
two  lads  in  official  caps,  bearing  a crimson  trunk  containing 
a suit  of  criminal’s  clothes.  These  are  borne  to  remind  the 
Mandarin  of  his  entire  dependence  upon  the  Emperor,  and 
if  at  any  time  he  receive  a summons  from  his  Celestial  High- 
ness, he  is  to  don  them  and  repair  to  his  presence.  The  Man- 
darin was  seated  in  a rich  and  magnificently  trimmed  and 
adorned  sedan  chair,  which  was  borne  upon  the  shoulders  of 
six  coolies.  At  his  side  walked  one  bearing  a huge  crimson 
cloth-covered  umbrella,  and  bringing  up  the  rear  was  a squad 
of  soldiers  without  arms.  This  is  the  .outline  of  the  retinue 
of  any  mandarin  or  high  official  when  traveling,  the  number 
and  rank  of  the  attendants  being  varied  according  to  his  rank 
or  position. 

We  paid  a visit  to  the  grave  yard,  situated  midway  be- 
tween the  town  and  the  village  of  Chefoo.  This  contains 
many  antique  monuments  of  stone,  with  curious  carvings,  and 
is  the  only  thing  worthy  of  note  in  the  whole  place. 

The  “ general  liberty  ” which  we  have  been  having  for  the 
past  two  days,  has  fully  demonstrated  the  truth  of  what  I 
said  upon  the  subject  in  a previous  letter.  Men,  after  being 
confined  on  board  ship  for  three  or  four  months,  and  then 
permitted  to  go  on  shore  in  great  crowds  for  a,  twenty-four 
hours’  debauch,  will  have  the  tendency  to  outrage,  which  arises 
from  the  physical  power  of  numbers  turned  loose  for  indul- 
gence in  a weak  community.  They  are  brought  to  this  mor- 
bid condition  by  their  long  confinement ; therefore  I do  not 
speak  of  their  committing  some  slight  outrages  upon  the  citi- 
zens of  Chefoo,  during  this  liberty,  as  an  unexpected  event, 
but  rather  with  wonder  that  this  should  be  the  first  time  that 


198 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


such  an  occurrence  has  happened  this  cruise.  Of  course  there 
will  be  a number  of  courtmartials,  and  some  of  the  guilty 
ones  punished  as  it  is  but  right  and  proper  that  they  should 
be,  but  still  I can  but  think  that  if  there  were  more  consider- 
ation paid  to  the  fact  that  sailors  have  human  natures,  and 
they  were  treated  accordingly,  all  possibility  of  such  occur- 
rences would  be  forever  obviated,  and  the  most  beneficial  re- 
sults secured.  While  I would  not  seek  to  have  the  punish- 
ment withheld  from  the  perpetrators  of  such  outrages,  I do 
hope  that  the  lesson  will  not  be  unheeded,  and  that  some 
plan  may  be  adopted  which  shall  not  only  improve  and  benefit 
all,  but  also  add  to  the  good  name  of  the  ship  and  those  be- 
longing to  her. 

A few  days  before  we  arrived  here,  great  excitement  was 
occasioned  by  the  arrival  of  three  fugitive  French  mission- 
aries from  Corea.  The  following  account  of  their  sufferings, 
and  other  interesting  particulars,  I copy  from  the  Shanghai , 
North  China  Daily  News,  of  July  16th. 

CHEFOO. 

“ From  a Correspondent. 

“Most  painful  news  has  just  been  received  from  the  King- 
dom of  Corea.  On  the  7th  instant,  a Corean  junk  with  the 
French  tricolor  at  one  of  the  mast-heads,  was  observed  en- 
tering the  harbor.  It  brought  the  Reverend  Abbe  Ridel, 
Catholic  Missionary,  and  eleven  Corean  Christians  who  have 
fled  from  that  country  on  account  of  the  persecution  now  rag- 
ing there  by  order  of  the  father  of  the  King,  against  the 
Christian  Churches.  Mr.  Ridel  reports  that,  in  the  month  of 
February  last,  the  King  received  intelligence  that  the  Rus- 
sians had  crossed  his  frontier,  and  that  they  were  holding 
intercourse  with  his  subjects.  At  the  same  time  the  Corean 
embassy  in  China  informed  their  sovereign  that  the  Chinese 
had  murdered  two  Catholic  missionaries,  and  that  it  would 
be  well  to  imitate  this  example.  Upon  this,  a general  order 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


199 


was  issued  to  apprehend  all  the  Catholic  Missionaries  (there 
being  no  other  missionaries,)  and  to  exterminate  the  Chris- 
tians. Two  French  bishops  and  seven  priests  were  arrested, 
and  after  having  been  cruelly  tortured,  were  beheaded.  As 
a special  favor,  a request  by  some  of  the  missionaries  to  be 
executed  on  Good  Friday,  was  acceded  to.  Only  three  Cath- 
olic priests  remained,  and  they  managed  to  hide  themselves 
in  the  mountains.  They  determined  that  one  of  their  num- 
ber should  endeavor  to  reach  the  coast,  and  come  to  this  port 
for  the  purpose  of  asking  the  protection  of  the  French  Gov- 
ernment, for  those  who  remained.  Mr.  Ridel  was  selected 
by  his  confreres  for  the  task,  and  it  was  only  in  obedience  to 
the  united  judgment  of  his  brother  priests,  that  he  parted 
from  them,  and  came  on  his  present  errand.  He  describes 
the  devastation  committed  on  the  Christian  Church  of  Corea  as 
appalling.  One  town,  nearly  all  Christians  were  ordered  to 
renounce  the  faith.  Many  were  martyred ; others  fled, 
and  the  greatest  consternation  prevailed.  The  Pagan  popu- 
lation are  averse  to  the  persecution,  but  they  are  too  weak  to 
resist.  There  were  at  the  beginning  of  this  year  about  fifty 
thousand  Catholic  Christians  in  the  kingdom  of  Corea.  The 
two  priests  who  survive,  if  they  can  escape  the  researches  of 
the  King’s  soldiers,  will  try  to  keep  alive  the  faith  until  fresh 
missionaries  arrive ; but  they  have  lost  everything.  The 
library  which  existed  in  the  capital  city,  containing  many 
Corean  books,  and  especially  two  dictionaries  of  the  Corean 
language,  compiled  by  the  French  missionaries  with  the  labor 
of  twenty -five  years  continual  application,  together  with  the 
printing  establishment  and  material  for  publishing  books  in 
the  Corean  language,  have  all  been  destroyed.  The  loss  to 
the  science  of  language  incurred  by  the  destruction  of  the 
above  named  dictionaries  is,  it  is  feared  irreparable.  All  the 
sacred  vessels  for  celebrating  the  holy  sacrifice  of  the  mass 
have  been  destroyed  by  the  King’s  orders,  and  the  Christian 
Church  in  Corea  is  threatened  with  destruction.  At  the 


200 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


time  Mr.  Ridel  left,  the  persecution  had  momentarily  ceased, 
as  the  King  found  that  it  interfered  with  the  harvest  of 
the  crops ; but  orders  had  been  given  to  resume  the  work  of 
extirpating  the  Christians  in  the  approaching  autumn. 

“ Mr.  Ridel  left  this  port  by  the  Nanzing  for  Tientien,  in 
order  to  see  the  French  Admiral,  who  is  there  present,  and 
it  is  expected  that  a French  vessel  of  war  will  be  sent  to 
Corea  to  demand  reparation.  The  feeling  in  France  when 
this  sad  news  arrives  there,  will  be  so  strong  that  the  French 
government  will  hardly  be  able  to  decline  assuming  the  re- 
sponsibility t)f  taking  measures  to  prevent  the  recurrence  of 
such  cruelties.  Such  a wholesale  massacre  of  French  clergy 
by  a Pagan  monarch,  without  provocation  on  their  part,  will 
excite  the  strongest  indignation  not  only  in  France,  but  wher- 
ever belief  in  Christianity  exists. 

“ The  Corean  government  is  in  a wretched  state ; the 
widow  of  the  late  king  has  adopted  a youth  for  the  sovereign, 
and  it  is  the  father  of  this  youth  who  is  the  author  of  all 
these  cruelties.  Corea  is  completely  undefenced.  A gun- 
boat could  make  its  way  to  the  capital  without  fear  of  resist- 
ance. The  Corean  army  is  a rabble  unprovided  with  artillery 
or  even  muskets,  and  a very  slight  demonstration  would  suf- 
fice to  induce  submission.  Mr.  Ridel  will  most  probably  go 
to  Pekin,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  British  minister  will 
not  lose  such  an  opportunity  as  this  to  ask,  in  conjunction 
with  the  French  minister,  for  the  opening  of  Corea  to  for- 
eign intercourse.  This  will  be  the  surest  way  to  prevent  the 
recurrence  of  such  lamentable  events.  The  Corean  junk 
remains  here  during  the  journey  of  Mr.  Ridel  to  Tientien  and 
Pekin,  and  is  a great  [object  of  curiosity  on  the  part  of  the 
inhabitants  of  this  port.” 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


201 


LETTER  XXI. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai, ) 
August  17th,  1866.  $ 

My  Dear  R.: 

Heat,  sickness,  and  death,  are  the  most  noticeable  events 
of  the  month  which  has  elapsed  since  my  last  communication 
to  you  was  mailed.  It  has  truly  been  the  saddest,  most  trying 
period  of  our  cruise,  and  as  I recall  those  sorrowful  events, 
I can  but  be  thankful  that  I have  passed  safely  through  them, 
and  hope  that  I may  never  experience  the  like  again.  Hav- 
ing safely  passed  through  them,  I sit  down  to  give  you  an 
account  thereof. 

We  arrived  here,  from  Chefoo,  July  26th,  after  a very 
pleasant  passage  of  four  days,  the  only  noticeable  incident  of 
which  was,  the  washing  of  a man  overboard  while  over  the 
side  putting  the  plugs  in  the  hawse-pipes.  He  was  subse- 
quently recovered.  Here  we  regained  quietly  until  August 
10th,  there  being  little  or  no  exercis^  or  unusual  work  per- 
formed, except  to  take  in  coal  and  provisions.  In  fact  it 
would  have  been  almost  impossible  to  have  done  anything, 
for  the  heat  was  excessive,  (the  thermometer  seldom  standing 
below  90°  in  the  shade,)  and  the  air  dry  and  sultry — almost 
suffocating. 

Friday,  August  10th,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  with  Mr. 
Seward — consul-general — two  American  citizens,  and  some 
seven  or  eight  Chinese  servants,  as  passengers,  we  started  for 
Hankow,  a place  about  six  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the 
Yangtse-kiang  River.  It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we 
left  Shanghai,  so  we  did  not  proceed  more  than  about  twenty- 
five  miles  before  we  came  to  anchor  for  the  night.  The  fol- 
10 


202 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


lowing  morning  we  again  got  under  way,  and  again  anchored 
at  dark,  after  proceeding  about  one  hundred  miles. 

The  Yangtse-kiang  (i.  e.,  Son  of  the  Ocean)  flows  nearly 
three  thousand  miles  in  all  its  windings.  It  is  often  simply 
called  Kiang  or  2Vkiang — the  River  or  Great  River.  The 
basin  drained  by  it  is  estimated  at  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  square  miles,  and  from  its  almost  central  course,  and 
the  number  of  provinces  through  which  it  passes,  it  has  been 
termed  the  “Girdle  of  China.”  Owing  to  the  great  width  of 
the  estuary,  which  extends  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles  above  its  mouth,  we  were  able  to  see  but  little  of  inter- 
est of  the  country  through  which  we  were  passing.  The  sur- 
face for  the  most  part  is  low  and  level,  hills  being  but  rarely 
seen.  Wherever  it  is  available,  canals  are  dug  and  water  let 
in  upon  the  rice-fields;  and,  when  this  kind  of  grain  is  culti- 
vated, it  allows  few  or  no  trees  to  grow.  The  plains  are  di- 
vided by  raised  banks  into  plots  of  from  one  to  ten  acres  each, 
the  banks  serving  for  pathways,  as  well  as  assisting  in  confirn 
ing  the  water  when  let  in  upon  the  growing  crop. 

In  the  entire  absence  of  fences  to  denote  the  bounds  of  the 
fields,  a cultivated  plain  looks  like  a vast  garden,  in  which  the 
plats  appear  as  beds.  At  iptervals  along  the  river  are  bayous 
and  creeks,  on  which  can  be  seen  immense  flocks  of  wild 
geese  and  ducks. 

We  started  again  at  day-break  Sunday  morning,  and  after 
steaming  a few  hours,  came  to  that  point  in  the  river  where 
it  leaves  its  estuary  form,  and  narrows  down  to  about  a mile 
and  a half  in  width.  Just  above  these  narrows  is  Siung 
Shan,  or  Silver  Island,  a beautiful  spot,  covered  with  temples 
and  monastic  establishments,  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens 
and  bowers.  Massive  granite  terraces  decorated  with  huge 
stone  monsters  are  reached  from  the  water  by  broad  flights  of 
stone  steps ; fine  temples  placed  to  be  seen  and  yet  shaded  by 
trees,  open  pavilions  and  shaded  summer-houses,  give  it  a de- 
lightful air  of  retreat  and  comfort.  On  a little  flat  at  the  foot 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


203 


of  the  eminence  on  which  these  stand,  picturesquely  situated, 
and  embowered  with  trees,  stands  a pretty  European  cottage, 
in  front  of  which  three  small  cannon  are  mounted,  while  from 
a tall  flag-staff  the  American  ensign  was  floating  as  we  passed 
— the  American  consulate.  About  three  miles  above  this 
island  is  the  walled  town  of  Chinkeang-foo,  about  half  a mile 
from  which  we  came  to  anchor.  The  gig  was  immediately 
lowered,  manned,  and  sent  after  the  consul. 

A short  distance  above  the  city  is  Kin  Shan , or  Golden 
Island.  A pagoda  crowns  its  summit,  and  there  are  many 
temples  and  pavilions  of  various  sizes  and  degrees  of  elegance. 
Golden  Island  is  smaller  than  Silver  Island,  and  has  a more 
toy-shop  appearance,  from  the  crowd  of  temples,  pagodas, 
and  pavilions,  which  cover  its  sides,  and  glitter  with  green 
and  yellow-glaced  porcelain  tiled  roofs.  These  islands  present 
by  far  the  most  picturesque  scenery  we  saw  on  the  river. 
The  city  of  Chinkiang  stands  just  below  the  junction  of  the 
Grand  Canal  with  the  Yangtse-kiang.  Its  position  renders  it 
the  key  to  the  cpuntry,  being  able  to  blockade  both  the  canal 
and  river.  The  scene  at  the  junction  affords  a good  exhibi- 
tion of  the  industry  and  trade  of  the  people.  As  Barrows 
says,  “The  multitude  of  war-junks,  of  burden  and  pleasure, 
some  gliding  down,  the  stream,  others  sailing  against  it;  some 
moving  by  oars,  and  others  lying  at  anchor;  the  banks  on 
either  side  crowded  with  towns  and  houses  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  furnish  a prospect  more  varied  and  cheerful  than 
any  we  have  hitherto  seen.”  The  country  in  the  vicinity  is 
well  cultivated,  and  presents  a pleasing  variety.  On  the 
southeast  the  hills  break  into  an  undulating  country  clothed 
with  verdure,  while  beyond  stretch  the  lowlands,  through 
which  we  had  passed  in  ascending  the  stream.  On  the  left 
bank  of  the  river  the  land  continues  a low,  swampy  flat,  with 
innumerable  sheets  of  water  separated  by  narrow  mounds,  so 
that  the  whole  resembles  a vast  lake,  intersected  by  causeways. 


204 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Willows  grow  along  the  sides  of  these  causeways,  and  there 
are  a few  dwellings  erected  upon  the  elevations. 

Chinkiang  is  quite  a large  city,  its  walls  being  about  four 
miles  in  circumference.  It  lies  between  two  quite  high 
ranges  of  hills,  extending  back  from  the  river,  and  meeting 
behind  the  town.  There  are  a few  elevations  within  the 
walls,  upon  one  of  which,  at  the  farther  extremity,  stands  an 
old  pagoda,  and  near  by  the  showy  buildings  of  the  Manda- 
rin. The  front  wall  is  very  high  and  thick,  but  the  others 
are  quite  small.  The  city  lies  back  about  a mile  from  the 
river,  but  extending  along  the  bank  is  a high,  thick  wall, 
about  two  miles  in  length,  each  extremity  terminated  by  a 
]ofty  eminence,  on  the  summit  of  which  stand  the  ruins  of 
what  must  have  been  formidable  Chinese  fortresses.  Indeed, 
at  the  taking  of  the  place  by  the  English,  on  July  21st,  1842, 
the  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  Manchoo  garrison  showed 
that  the  place  was  of  uncommon  strength,,  and  that  the  Chi- 
nese were  not  entirely  devoid  of  courage.  It  is  said  that 
“the  Tartar  general,  Hailing,  finding  the  city  taken,  seated 
himself  in  the  midst  of  his  papers,  and  set  fire  to  his  house, 
making  it  his  funeral  pyre.  His  ashes  and  those  of  his  wife 
and  grandson  were  afterward  collected,  and  an  honorary  fane , 
or  monument,  was  ordered  to  be  erected  to  his  memory  at 
the  public  expense.”  At  the  upper  side  of  the  city  stand  a 
few  European  residences — the  foreign  section  of  the  city. 
On  the  opposite  bank  is  a large  collection  of  low,  mean-look- 
ing, bamboo,  Chinese  hovels. 

Monday  the  thermometer  varied  from  95°  to  104°  in  the 
shade.  And  such  heat!  It  was  not  only  exceedingly  hot, 
but  was  a sultry,  sickening,  deadening  heat.  There  was  not 
a breath  of  air  stirring,  and  one  and  all  appeared,  and  in  fact 
were,  utterly  powerless,  caring  but  little  whether  they  lived 
or  died.  Every  few  minutes  during  the  day  the  decks  were 
wet  down,  and  the  hose  played  upon  the  awnings.  At  such 
times  the  steam  would  rise,  almost  the  same  as  if  water  had 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


205 


been  poured  upon  a hot  stove.  From  the  sides  of  the  ship 
and  from  such  portions  of  the  deck  as  were  not  protected  by 
the  awnings,  the  pitch  could  be  seen  oozing  forth,  and  to  walk 
upon  the  exposed  portions  with  bare  feet  was  little  short  of 
torture.  At  all  hours  of  the  day  the  men  were  seen  lying 
about  the  decks,  fanning  themselves,  and  trying  every  method 
to  keep  cool. 

In  the  morning,  just  after  the  “retreat”  sounded,  all  were 
startled  by  the  announcement  that  Mate  Thomas  Kelly  had 
died  while  we  were  at  quarters.  The  doctor  pronounced  the 
cause  to  be  “ congestion  of  the  brain,  brought  on  by  the  ex- 
cessive heat.”  Early  in  the  morning  he  was  on  deck,  appar- 
ently in  his  usual  health ; his  sickness  and  death  all  occurred 
in  the  space  of  about  half  an  hour.  Preparations  were  im- 
mediately made  for  his  funeral.  He  was  laid  out  in  his  uni- 
form until  a coffin  could  be  made,  which  was  done  by  Chinese 
carpenters  on  shore.  Of  the  party  that  went  ashore  to  dig 
his  grave,  four  were  prostrated  by  sun-stroke,  and  one  of 
them  is  yet  lying  in  a critical  condition.  Mate  Kelly’s  fune- 
ral took  place  the  following  morning,  and  his  body  was  fol- 
lowed to  the  grave,  on  Silver  Island,  by  most  of  the  officers 
and  a firing-party. 

I was  awakened  at  1.30  A.  M.,  Wednesday,  August  15th, 
by  the  corporal  of  the  guard,  and  told  that  Captain  Townsend 
had  just  expired.  lie  was  taken  ill  the  evening  previous, 
but  his  sickness  was  not  considered  to  be  anything  serious 
until  about  midnight,  when  he  commenced  to  grow  worse  rap- 
idly, and  so  continued  until  he  expired.  A boat  was  imme- 
diately sent  aboard  the  river-steamer,  Plymouth  Rock,  for  ice 
to  place  around  the  body  and  preserve  it  until  we  could  reach 
Shanghai,  whither  he  had  given  orders,  a short  time  before 
he  died,  that  we  should  proceed  at  day-light.  At  three  o’clock 
Mr.  Seward  took  passage  for  Shanghai  in  a river-steamer  go- 
ing down,  so  as  to  have  a tug-boat  meet  us  with  a supply  of 
ice.  At  four  o’clock  we  got  under  way,  and  in  passing  Silver 


206 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Island  we  half  masted  the  flag,  and  fired  three  guns  to  arouse 
the  consul  and  inform  him  of  the  captain’s  death.  In  return 
he  half  masted  his  flag  and  fired  three  guns.  The  flag  was 
kept  at  half  mast  all  day,  and  all  the  vessels  in  the  river  half 
masted  their  colors  out  of  respect  to  the  dead.  We  arrived 
at  Shanghai  at  8 o’clock  in  the  evening. 

The  following  day,  at  5 P.  M.,  the  remains  were  taken  on 
shore  for  interment.  A salute  of  seven  guns  from  the  decks 
of  the  Wachusett  announced  the  lowering  of  the  coffin  over 
the  ship’s  side ; and  shortly  before  7 P.  M.  the  procession  left 
the  Bund  in  the  following  order: 


Sixty  sailors  from 


Captain  Hewett, 
Mr.  Dixwell, 
Mr.  Nye, 

Mr.  Hayes, 


BAND. 

the  Wachusett  under 
Acting  Commander. 


'TTl 


Lieutenant  Philip, 

Captain  Bochet, 
Mr.  Seward, 

Mr.  Grew, 

Mr.  Twombly. 


Mr.  Thorne  and  Mr.  Townsend,  Chief  Mourners. 
Officers  of  Wachusett. 


Community. 


The  funeral  service  was  most  impressively  read  by  Rev. 
C.  II.  Butcher,  and  after  its  conclusion  three  volleys  were 
fired  over  the  grave.  It  is  said  that  a larger  number  of  the 
community  followed  the  coffin  than  ever  had  on  any  previous 
occasion — a mark  of  respect  to  the  deceased  which  those  who 
had  the  privilege  of  his  acquaintance  know  well  how  highly 
he  deserved. 

The  following  obituary  letter  from  Consul-General  George 
F.  Seward  will  meet  with  a hearty  confirmation  by  all  who 
knew  him: 

“’My  acquaintance  with  the  decease  was  very  brief,  yet  it 
was  sufficient  to  enable  me  to  appreciate  somewhat  the  many 
excellent  traits  of  his  character.  There  are  others  I know 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


207 


who  were  equally  attracted  by  his  genial  manner  and  rich 
conversation,  and  who  grieve  with  me  over  his  death.  I feel 
it  to  be  my  duty  to  offer  to  such  the  information  touching  his 
life  and  character  which  I have  been  able  to  glean.  I could 
wish  that  the  service  might  be  performed  by  another  more 
familiar  with  his  career  and  his  high  qualities. 

“Commander  Townsend’s  family  has  been  long  and  honor- 
ably known  in  America.  Some  members  of  it  served  in  the 
war  of  the  revolution,  both  in  council  and  in  camp.  It  was 
represented  well  in  the  Mexican  war,  and  during  the  late  re- 
bellion its  old  spirit  of  devotion  to  country  was  again  exhib- 
ited. A brother  of  the  deceased  commanded  one  of  the  first 
regiments  sent  out  by  the  state  of  New  York  at  the  outbreak 
of  the  rebellion,  and  did  signal  service.  He  has  been  widely 
known  as  adjutant-general  of  the  state  of  New  York.  A 
nephew,  barely  twenty-three  years  of  age,  was  killed  in 
Grant’s  great  march  upon  Richmond,  while  commanding  the 
106th  New  York  Volunteers.  Other  members  of  the  family 
were  prominently  active  in  various  departments. 

“The  deceased  graduated  at  Union  College,  New  York,  in 
1835,  and  immediately  entered  the  navy  as  a midshipman. 
His  first  cruise  was  in  the  Mediterranean.  He  afterwards 
took  part  in  the  siege  and  capture  of  Vera  Cruz,  and  was 
otherwise  actively  engaged  during  the  Mexican  war. 

“In  1851  Commander  Townsend,  then  a lieutenant,  having 
married,  resigned  his  commission.  At  the  outbreak  of  the 
rebellion  he  offered  his  services  as  a volunteer,  and  was  ac- 
cepted as  an  acting  lieutenant.  He  served  as  such  under 
Farragut  at  the  passage  of  the  forts  and  the  capture  of  New 
Orleans.  Still  later  he  commanded  the  Miami , and  did  effi- 
cient service  in  the  Sounds  of  North  Carolina.  Subsequently 
he  was  restored  to  the  regular  service  with  the  rank  of  com- 
mander, and  commanded  the  well  known  iron-clad,  Essex , at 
the  siege  of  Port  Hudson.  Still  later  he  was  division  com- 
mander under  Admiral  Porter  and  upon  the  Red  River — 


208 


CHTNA  AND  JAPAN, 


campaigns  of  the  most  harrassing  description.  Just  before 
the  close  of  the  war  he  was  ordered  to  the  East  India  Squadron. 

“ His  career  in  China,  though  brief,  was  not  an  idle  one. 
His  conduct  of  matters  at  Newchwang  was  such  as  to  afford 
a guarantee  for  the  peace  of  the  port,  yet  it  was  so  consider- 
ate and  careful,  that  no  injury,  but  the  contrary,  was  offered 
to  the  prestige  of  the  native  authorities.  At  Canton,  he 
rendered  some  valuable  service,  and  at  Chefoo  he  put  the  dif- 
ficulties of  the  missionaries  in  the  way  of  settlement.  Be- 
fore his  return  from  the  latter  place  he  received  orders  to 
proceed  to  Hankow,  stopping  at  the  ports,  and  it  was  at  the 
first  of  these  en  route,  that  he  met  the  hand  of  the  Destroyer. 
His  hard  work  and  exposure  to  the  malaria  upon  the  south- 
ern Mississippi  had  implanted  in  his  system  the  seeds  of  dis- 
ease, and  they  were  germinated  readily  by  the  fierce  sun  and 
the  fresh  water  of  the  Yangtse. 

“ The  deceased  was  somewhat  exposed  to  the  sun  on  Sun- 
day the  12th,  and  to  the  night  air  on  Sunday  evening.  On 
Monday  evening,  he  had  a slight  fever,  which  increased  on 
Tuesday.  Yielding  to  urgent  advice,  and  perhaps  to  a sense 
of  impending  danger,  he  concluded  to  return  to  Shanghai 
the  next  morning.  No  one  dreamed  that  he  was  seriously 
ill,  but  the  intense  heat  rendered  it  undesirable  and  unsafe 
for  all  that  the  voyage  should  be  prosecuted.  At  1.30, 
Tuesday  morning,  wearied  with  work  and  exposure,  I went 
on  board  the  ship,  and  as  I passed  to  my  cot  I saw  him  qui- 
etly sleeping.  In  less  than  half  an  hour,  1 was  awakened 
only  in  time  to  see  him  yield  up  his  breath  to  its  Giver. 
He  had  passed  from  sleep  into  a state  of  insensibility,  and 
died  without  the  opportunity  to  breathe  a message  to  wife 
and  children,  and  a prayer  to  the  Mercy  Seat. 

“Favored  by  high  social  position,  and  inherited  wealth,  for- 
tunate in  his  family  and  domestic  relations,  Capt.  Townsend 
needed  nothing  which  could  make  life  dear  to  him.  Neither 
his  experience  or  active  life  nor  his  enjoyment  of  leisure  had 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


209 


been  unprofitable,  but  be  had  ever  been  a careful  observer  in 
the  world,  and  there  was  stowed  away  in  his  capacious  mind 
a vast  fund  of  information. 

“ In  character,  he  was  benevolent  and  appreciative,  yet 
just  and  firm.  He  was  known  as  a fighting  man  on  board  his 
ship,  and  to  the  world,  yet  no  one  was  more  tender-hearted 
and  considerate.  His  intelligence,  his  tenderness,  his  firm- 
ness, endeared  him  to  his  officers,  while  his  manner  was  suf- 
ficient to  ensure  for  him  the  affection  of  his  men.  The  sor- 
row felt  for  him  on  board  the  Wachusett  is  deep  and  perma- 
nent, and  forms  the  best  testimonial  to  his  qualities  of  head 
and  heart.” 

Geo.  F.  Seward. 

Shanghai,  Aug.  17th,  1866. 

The  death  of  our  Captain  came  most  unexpectedly  to  us 
all,  and  never  before  have  I seen  such  an  expression  of  sor- 
row as  has  been  manifested  by  the  crew  of  the  Wachusett 
since  that  sad  event  occurred.  He  was  beloved  and  respected 
by  all,  almost  as  a father,  and  since  his  death  scarcely  a smile 
has  been  seen  about  our  decks. 

If  anything  can  be  wanting  to  perfect  our  respect  for  the 
deceased,  we  shall  find  it  in  the  tenderness  of  the  following 
lines  to  his  wife  and  children,  which  are  taken  from  the  Army 
and  Navy  Gazette , and  are  evidently  from  his  pen.  The  sen- 
timents expressed  in  these  lines  has  found  a response  in  the 
hearts  of  most  of  us,  as  we  thought  of  the  loved  ones,  far, 
far  away.  We  may  not  intrude  upon  the  sorrows  of  his 
loved  ones,  but  as  we  think  of  our  own,  we  can  but  pause  to 
think  of  the  grief  which  will  fall  upon  them,  when  the  tidings 
of  their  loss  reach  their  home. 

A NEW  YEAR  GARLAND. 

' TO  LOVED  ONES  AT  HOME,  FROM  THE  INDIAN  OCEAN. 

My  own  dear  wife ! dear  boy  ! dear  girls ! 

The  wealth  of  love  ye  bear  for  me, 

10* 


210 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Is  richer  than  the  fairest  pearls 
That  glisten  ’neath  this  Indian  Sea. 

And  gathered  round  our  simple  hearth, 
Breathing  the  atmosphere  of  love, 

I ask  no  purer  Heaven  on  earth, 

Nor  dream  a happier  Heaven  above. 

Yet  far  away  my  treasure  lies, 

Whilst  storm-swept  oceans  roll  between ; 
The  Pole  star  reigning  o’er  those  skies. 

Ne’er  gazes  on  this  alien  scene. 

But,  as  I pace  the  midnight  deck, 

The  Southern  Cross  is  blazing  high  ; 

Ah ! heart  estranged  I little  reck 
The  splendors  of  this  Austral  sky. 

Only  the  glorious  sun  may  shine, 

At  once  upon  my  home  and  me ; 

And,  watching  him  at  day’s  decline, 

Sinking  beneath  the  tranquil  sea. 

My  orisons  instinctive  break 

Upon  the  hallowed  evening  air — 

I know  his  blessed  beams  awake, 

My  darlings  to  their  morning  prayer. 

Vicegerent  of  the  God  of  Light ! 

I cannot  wonder  that  of  old 
The  Magi  worshiped,  as  the  night 
Fled,  vanquished  by  thy  orb  of  gold, 

Our  purer  faith — our  hopes  God  given, 

Feel  thy  benignant  influence  still, 

Raising  the  earth  bound  soul  toward  Heaven, 
Scattering  each  brooding  fear  of  ill. 

Thus,  upwards  borne,  my  troubled  heart. 
Reposes  on  the  love  Divine — 

Far  as  the  several  poles  apart, 

From  those  dear  lives  so  linked  with  mine ; 
Long  months  away — for  months  no  word 
To  break  the  chaos  absence  brings  ; 

My  soul,  beyond  endurance  stirred, 

Flies  suppliant  to  the  King  of  kings. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


211 


The  good  and  gracious  God  will  keep 
My  loved  ones  in  His  holy  care, 

This  yearning,  anxious  heart  may  sleep,  # 

Calm  on  the  wings  of  trustful  prayer ; 

And,  strengthened,  turn  its  wistful  gaze 
To  that  sweet  time  of  halcyon  rest, 

When,  bathed  in  love’s  unstinted  rays, 

’Twill  be  amid  its  treasures  blest. 

Up  springing  from  the  Tropic  Sea, 

Again  the  glorious  sunbeams  shine, 

Bringing  your  Vesper  Hymn  to  me, 

Mingling  your  loving  hearts  with  mine. 

Dear  wife ! dear  children ! Orient  sun, 

And  sapphire  sea,  and  pearly  skies, 

Beam  with  God’s  smile ; the  loving  one 
Biddeth  our  downcast  hearts  arise. 

T. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett, 

Lat.  12°  44'  S.,  Long.  99°  59'  E.,  Jan.  1,  1866. 


212  CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XXII, 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai,  China,  I 
Aug.  18,  1866.  j 

My  Dear  R. : 

When  we  returned  here  from  Chinkiang,  upwards  of  one- 
third  of  the  crew  were  prostrated  with  fever,  brought  on  by 
the  excessive  heat,  and  the  unhealthfulness  of  that  place. 
There  were  several  quite  critical  cases  of  fever;  but  owing 
to  the  constant  and  excellent  attendance  of  the  surgeon,  and 
his  steward,  all  of  the  sick  are  in  a fair  way  to  recover,  with 
the  exception  of  a boy  named  Falvey,  who  probably  has  not 
many  hours  to  live. 

Come  with  me  now,  and  we  will  finish  that  ramble  about 
the  native  section  of  Shanghai,  which  we  left  incomplete  on 
our  former  visit.  We  find  that  our  former  impressions  as 
to  Shanghai  being  a dirty  city  are  confirmed,  and  that  the 
houses  are  not  as  fine  as  those  of  some  other  Chinese  towns 
we  have  visited.  There  are  numerous  fine  shops,  however, 
which  present  imposing  fronts  with  their  numerous  and  va- 
riously colored  signs  and  lamps.  The  objects  which  most 
attract  the  notice  of  a stranger,  are  the  silk  and  embroidery, 
cotton,  and  cotton  goods,  porcelain,  Chinese  costumes  lined 
with  beautiful  skins  and  furs,  bamboo  pipes  four  or  five  feet 
long,  shops  for  selling  bamboo  ornaments,  pictures,  bronzes, 
specimens  of  old  porcelain,  and  many  other  curiosities  to 
which  the  Chinese  attach  great  value.  The  most  extensive 
trade,  however,  is  in  articles  of  food,  and  sometimes  there  is 
much  difficulty  in  passing  through  the  streets  of  the  city 
owing  to  the  immense  quantities  of  fish,  pork,  fruit  and  veg- 
etables which  crowd  the  stands  in  front  of  the  shops.  Din- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


213 


ing  rooms,  tea-shops,  and  bakers’  houses  are  met  with  at 
every  step.  They  are  of  every  grade  from  that  of  the  poor 
man  who  carries  around  his  kitchen,  or  bakehouse,  altogether 
hardly  worth  a dollar,  to  the  most  extensive  tea-shop  crowd- 
ed with  customers.  .For  a few  cash  a Chinaman  can  dine 
upon  rice,  fish,  and  vegetables ; nor  does  it  seem  to  matter 
much  to  him  whether  his  table  is  spread  in  the  open  street 
or  in  an  elegant  tea-house.  Tying  on  the  ground  in  front  of 
the  prisons,  with  their  heads  in  the  cague — a square  board 
some  three  or  four  feet  in  length,  with  a hole  through  the 
center,  through  which  the  head  is  thrust,  and  then  resting 
upon  the  shoulders  like  a collar — are  seen  criminals  exposed 
to  the  rays  of  the  hot  sun,  and  the  annoyance  of  the  flies,  as 
well  as  to  the  jeers  and  taunts  of  the  passer-by. 

Butleaving  these  disagreeable  sights,  we  will  look  for  some- 
thing more  attractive.  This  we  may  find  in  the  tea-gardens, 
a collection  of  artificial  grottoes,  miniature  lakes  and  ponds, 
temples  and  pleasant  walks,  with  picturesque  little  bridges 
leading  to  some  temple  or  pavilion  situated  on  an  island  in 
the  miniature  lake.  The  erection  and  construction  of  these 
evinces  a taste  for  the  beautiful  and  picturesque ; but  I am 
sorry  to  add  that  the  same  good  taste  is  not  displayed  in  keep- 
ing them  in  repair,  neatness,  or  decency.  We  find  the* waters, 
green,'stagnant  pools,  and  the  whole  garden  given  up  to  for- 
tune-tellers, gaming  tables,  conjurers,  obscene  show-men,  and 
loafers.  It  presents  a somewhat  better  appearance  on  one 
of  their  festive  days,  and  at  those  times  furnishes  a charac- 
teristic scene  of  Chinese  animation.  The  people  that  throng 
it  are  dressed  out  in  their  best  garb ; the  fortune-teller,  con- 
jurer, show-man,  and  tumbler  are  engaged  in  their  respective 
vocations,  and  the  noise  of  gongs,  cymbals,  and  crackers  is 
terrific.  We  must  not  leave  without  having  some  tea,  and 
signifying  our  desire  to  the  guide,  we  are  straightway  con- 
ducted by  him,  over  a picturesque  little  bridge  to  a tower  on 
an  island  in  the  largest  of  the  artificial  lakes,  where  he  tells 


214 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


us  that  we  can  get  “No.  1,  first  chop,  Mandelin  tea.”  As- 
cending to  the  third  floor,  we  seat  ourselves'  in  a rich  and 
tastefully  furnished  room,  which  commands  a fine  view  of  the 
principal  square  of  the  gardens,  and  forthwith  tea  is  brought 
us.  We  taste  and  forthwith  exclaim,  “ this  is  tea!”  I have 
never  tasted  its  equal  before.”  0 ye  afternoon  New  Eng- 
land tea-drinkers,  could  you  but  have  some  of  this  tea,  me- 
■ thinks  that  that  reputed  flow  of  conversation  for  which  you 
are  famed,  would  resemble  the  rapid  mountain  torrent  whose 
progress  is  not  to  be  restrained  by  bond  or  barrier! 

The  Chinese  have  furnished  us  with  tea  as  well  as  with 
cups,  but  few  Europeans  seem  to  understand  the  art  of  pre- 
paring the  beverage,  and  are  seldom  seen  to  partake  of  it, 
for  the  sake  of  the  pure  taste  of  the  tea.  Tea-shops  are 
everywhere  to  be  seen  throughout  China,  and  a visitor  is  in- 
variably presented  with  a cup  of  the  beverage  immediately 
upon  his  arrival.  The  Chinese  seldom  make  “ strong  tea,” 
and  never  add  milk  or  sugar. 

Tea  marks  the  period  of  our  departure  from  Shanghai  for 
Japan  to-day,  and  is  a good  word  with  which  to  close  this 
letter.  May  we  soon  have  a tea-drinking  together  in  the 
United  States,  and  if  the  article  is  not  equal  to  that  we  had 
in  China,  there  will  be  more  than  enough  else  to  compensate 
for  the  mere  loss  of  tea. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


215 


LETTER  XXIII. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Nagasaka,  Japan, 
September  22,  1866. 

My  Dear  R. : 

As  I feared,  Falvey  did  not  live  a great  many  hours,  but 
died  that  same  evening  before  we  reached  Woosung.  Ac- 
cordingly we  anchored  there  that  night.  The  next  morning 
a boat  was  sent  ashore  to  dig  a grave ; but  permission  for 
doing  so  was  refused  by  the  Chinese  authorities,  and  we  were 
forced  to  bury  him  at  sea.  This  is  the  first  burial  at  sea  we 
have  had  this  cruise,  and  to  me  it  was  a very  impressive  and 
solemn  occasion. 

The  headway  of  the  ship  vfas  stopped ; the  flag  put  at 
half-mast ; the  body,  sewed  up  in  a hammock,  with  two  thirty 
pound  shot  at  the  feet,  was  placed  on  a plank  in  the  gangway? 
and  covered  with  the  jack ; and  all  hands  were  assembled  on 
the  quarter-deck,  and  stood  with  uncovered  heads  while  the 
funeral  service  of  the  Episcopal  church  was  read.  As  the 
words,  “ we  now  consign  the  body  of  our  beloved  brother  to 
the  deep,”  were  pronounced,  the  plank  was  gently  raised,  and 
the  body  plunged  into  the  sea.  After  the  benediction,  three 
volleys  of  musketry  were- fired,  the  flag  mastheaded,  and  we 
again  moved  on,  leaving  “ our  beloved  brother  ” to  remain 
there,  until  “ the  sea  shall  give  up  the  dead  which  are  in  it.’’ 
There  may  he  rest,  and 

“ Find  pleasant  weather, 

Till  he  who  all  commands, 

Shall  give,  to  call  life’s  crew  together, 

The  word,  to  pipe  all  hands.” 


216 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Thursday,  August  23d,  we  arrived  at  Yokohama,  having 
made  the  passage  from  Shanghai  in  about  four  days  and  a 
half,  heating  the  mail  steamer  by  twelve  hours.  Our  passage 
was  characterized  by  a smooth  sea,  little  or  no  wind,  and  with 
no  unusual  incidents,  other  than  that  we  had  no  exercise. 
We  found  the  Hartford  and  Wyoming  both  lying  at  Yoko- 
hama, and  immediately  upon  our  arrival  Mr,  Philip  went 
aboard  the  Flagship  to  report  the  death  of  the  Captain,  and 
to  await  further  orders. 

While  lying  there  we  had  many  Japanese  visitors,  repre- 
sentatives of  the  various  classes  of  society,  from  the  gentle- 
man of  rank  to  the  meanest  laborer.  As  a race  they  are  far 
superior  to  the  Chinese — the  features  more  regular,  and  the 
complexion  less  sallow.  If  dressed  in  the  garb,  many  of  them 
would  pass  for  Europeans.  Instead  of  shoes,  they  wear 
sandals,  with  white  or  blue  stockings,  the  sandal  being  re- 
tained upon  the  foot  by  a string  passing  between  the  great 
toe  and  its  nearest  neighbor — toe  No.  2.  Their  remaining 
articles  of  dress  consist  of  loose  and  baggy  cotton  trowsers, 
which  are  confined  tightly  about  the  ankles,  and  a short  gown 
of  the  same  material  crossing  the  breast  in  intersected  folds. 
The  head  is  left  bare,  with  the  hair  curiously  arranged  and 
decorated.  The  top  from  the  forehead  to  the  vertex,  for  the 
breadth  of  three  or  four  inches,  is  clean-sliaved.  The  hair 
is  then  gathered  up  from  the  back  and  sides  of  the  head,  and 
waxed  into  a smooth  spike  with  the  ends  cut  even.  This 
spike  is  bound  by  a cord  close  to  the  head,  and  after  making 
a short  curve  backward,  is  brought  forward,  and  rests  upon 
the  middle  of  the  shaven  surface.  This  is  the  dress  of  the 
middle  class.  The  lower  class  wear  precisely  the  same  cos- 
tume, but  of  a cheaper  material.  Coolies  are  sometimes  seen 
naked  to  the  waist,  and  without  stockings  or  sandals.  The 
dress  of  a Japanese  gentleman  has  not  inappropriately  been 
compared  to  “ that  of  #i  plain,  neat,  but  richly  dressed  Quak- 
eress just  attired  for  a street  promenade.”  The  pantaloons, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


217 


with  their  loose,  baggy  legs,  are  of  rich,  soft-colored  and 
figured  silk,  and  meet  at  the  waist  a mantle  of  silk, — with 
large  flowing  sleeves, — which  is  brought  across  the  breast 
in  intersecting  oblique  folds,  and  secured  about  the  waist  by  a 
girdle.  Over  this  is  worn  a short  frock  or  gown,  of  dark  or 
dove-colored  silk  gauze,  on  each  sleeve  and  shoulder  of  which 
is  a white  figure,  enclosing  the  arms  of  the  individual.  The 
same  device  is  also  worked  on  the  mantles  of  his  retainers. 
A long,  black-handled,  black-scabbarded  sword,  with  a similar 
short  one,  stuck  through  the  girdle  on  the  left  side,  completes 
the  costume. 

In  their  intercourse  with  foreigners,  and  with  one  another, 
I have  ever  noticed  the  most  courteous  and  polished  behav- 
ior. In  manner  and  countenance  they  are  intelligent  and 
polished  gentlemen.  They  are  quiet  and  subdued,  rather 
than  demonstrative,  in  their  expressions  of  courtesy,  and 
seem  to  have  their  passions  and  emotions  under  perfect  con- 
trol, in  this  respect  somewhat  resembling  the  polished  clergy 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  church.  The  smiles  which  constantly 
light  up  their  countenances  display  beautifully  white  and  reg- 
ular teeth.  Their  mode  of  salutation  when  about  to  pass  one 
another,  is  highly  illustrative  of  their  courteous  deportment. 
“One  rests  his  hands  on  his  circumflexed  knees,  and  with  gra- 
cious smiles  lowly  bows  his  head  forward;  the  other  imme- 
diately does  the  same,  and  after  repeating  this  they  pass  on. 
This  mode  of  salutation  is  not  confined  to  inferiors  in  salut- 
ing their  superiors,  but  is  employed  to  equals.”  By  a close 
examination  the  Japanese  may  be  observed  to  have  a dual 
character,  a fact  which  will  perhaps  account  for  the  different 
reports  which  different  writers  have  given  of  them.  We  see 
them  in  their  official  capacity,  taciturn,  suspicious,  vindictive, 
cruel,  while  we  again  behold  them  in  their  social  relations, 
communicative,  trustful,  kind,  and  hospitable.  The  character 
assumed  during  the  time  that  they  are  ^engaged  in  their  offi- 
cial duties,  is  all  laid  aside  as  soon  as  the  business  is  over,  so 


218 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


that  we  may  behold  them  in  the  enjoyment  of  social  inter- 
course with  those  who,  but  a short  time  before,  they  appeared 
to  regard  with  enmity  and  distrust.  Their  honesty  is  re- 
markable ; after  a visit  from  any  number  of  them  no  one 
would  ever  think  of  missing  a single  article ; indeed,  none 
could  be  induced  to  accept  the  most  trifling  present,  and  in 
all  their  dealings  they  are  very  exact.  Cleanliness  appears 
to  be  one  of  their  chief  virtues.  Their  modesty,  however,  is 
far  from  being  equal  to  their  honesty,  for  their  cities  are 
provided  with  public  bath-houses,  where  all  ages  and  sexes 
mingle  freely,  without  any  encumbrance  of  costume. 

Before  going  on  shore  we  will  take  a survey  of  Yokohama 
from  the  ship,  to  see  if  there  is  not  something  of  interest  to 
be  noted,  and,  sailor  fashion,  we  will  commence  with  the  har- 
bor. In  entering  it  a vessel  turns  to  the  northwestward  from 
Yeddo  Bay,  and  after  proceeding  in  this  direction  for  about 
a mile,  the  course  is  altered  to  nearly  due  west,  in  which 
direction  the  harbor  extends  for  the  remainder  of  its  length. 
In  all,  it  closely  resembles  a short  boot  in  form,  the  entrance 
answering  to  the  leg.  There  it  is  about  two  miles  in  width, 
and  narrows  down,  irregularly,  to  a point  at  its  inner  extrem- 
ity, some  three  or  four  miles  distant. 

On  the  southwestern  side  of  the  entrance  is  a high,  rocky 
bluff,  the  scenery  about  which  is  exceedingly  wild  and  pic- 
turesque. On  its  summit  is  a signal  station,  and  close  by  are 
the  English  barracks,  with  the  union  jack  flying  in  front. 
At  the  western,  or  inner  foot  of  this  bluff,  are  the  French' 
barracks.  Further  in  is  a canal,  some  seventy  or  eighty  feet 
in  width,  which  describes  a rude  semicircle,  about  two  miles 
in  length,  and  terminates  in  a large  bight,  or  cove,  filled  with 
junks  and  small  Japanese  craft.  On  the  semicircular  space 
inclosed  by  the  canal,  stands  the  town  of  Yokohama,  facing  to 
the  northward,  and  at  its  greatest  width  measuring  from  half 
to  three-fourths  of  a mile.  The  eastern  portion  is  the  foreign 
settlement,  and  the  western  the  native  portion,  the  two  being 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


219 


separated  by  a wide  street.  Continuing  on  from  the  town, 
there  are  few  houses  seen  until  we  cross  a bridge,  about  a 
mile  in  length,  at  the  inner  extremity  of  the  harbor.  Then, 
going  east  on  the  opposite  side,  we  come  to  the  larger  Japan- 
ese town  of  Kanagawa,  facing  to  the  southward,  and  nearly 
opposite  Yokohama.  On  this  side,  near  the  centre  of  the 
town,  we  notice  a large  Japanese  fortress,  built  of  stone, 
mounting  several  heavy  pieces  of  cannon,  and  comparing  fa- 
vorably with  many  a fort  of  European  construction.  In  the 
harbor  are  a large  number  of  men-of-war,  steamers,  and 
merchant  vessels  of  different  nationalities,  besides  the  im- 
mense number  of  native  junks  and  smaller  craft.  The  sur- 
rounding country  has  in  general  a level  aspect ; beside  the 
numerous  fruit  trees  seen,  a species  of  spruce,  or  fir,  are  the 
most  common.  And  now,  to  complete  the  sketch — some 
forty-five  miles  in  a northwesterly  direction  is  seen  the  vol- 
canic mountain,  Fusi  Yama,  with  its  perpetually  snow-clad 
summit  of  fourteen  thousand  feet  high,  celebrated  alike  in 
Japanese  history  and  mythology. 

While  we  are  being  rowed  ashore  in  one  of  them,  we  can 
mark  the  difference  of  the  Japanese  boats  from  those  of  the 
Chinese.  The  most  noticeable  differences  are  the  sharp, 
curving  prows,  spmewhat  resembling  a skate  runner  cut  off 
where  it  commences  to  curve  over,  and  in  their  being  pro- 
pelled by  two,  three,  and  sometimes  more  scull-oars,  resting 
on  bars  projecting  from  the  sides. 

We  land  at  the  little  pier,  or  hettlebar , at  the  foot  of  the 
street  which  separates  the  two  sections,  and  after  proceeding 
about  one  hundred  yards  up  this,  turn  off  to  the  left,  and  find 
ourselves  on  Hamora  street, — the  Broadway  of  Yokohama. 
We  pass  up  this  street,  cross  the  canal  by  a fine  bridge,  and 
ascend  the  bluff,  from  which  we  have  a bird’s-eye  view  of  the 
city  and  the  surrounding  country.  The  town  stands  on  a 
low  plain,  but  farther  back  the  country  is  very  uneven,  with, 
however,  no  considerable  eminences.  There  is  nothing  about 


220 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  foreign  section  of  Yokohama  to  distinguish  it  from  a town 
of  equal  size  at  home.  Both  that  and  the  native  section  are 
laid  out  with  much  exactness,  and  have  an  appearance  of 
neatness  and  comfort. 

Now,  descending  the  bluff,  and  taking  a stroll  around  the 
town  to  the  westward,  there  will  be  much  of  interest  pre- 
sented to  us.  A few  steps  bring  us  to  the  foot  of  a consider- 
able eminence  ascended  by  a long  flight  of  stone  steps,  at  the 
top  of  which  stands  a large  establishment  for  drying  and 
packing  tea.  We  enter  and  find  ourselves  in  a large  room, 
filled  with  rows  of  earthernware  or  iron  kettles  set  in  arches. 
Before  each  kettle  is  a Japanese,  busily  engaged  in  stirring 
about  two  pounds  of  tea  which  is  being  dried  by  a slow  fire. 
To  each  row  of  kettles  there  is  one  who  from  time  to  time 
passes  along  its  entire  length,  taking  a small  portion  of  tea 
from  each  kettle,  carefully  keeping  them  separate  from  each 
other  on  a tray.  This  he  bears  to  a little  desk  at  one  corner 
of  the  room,  where  sits  the  inspector,  who  tells  at  a glance 
if  it  is  sufficiently  dried.  If  it  is,  the  tea  is  placed  in  bask- 
ets made  for  this  purpose,  carried  to  the  packing  room,  and  a 
fresh  supply  placed  in  the  kettles.  Further  on  we  come  to  a 
number  of  temples,  whose  only  attractions  are  the  exceed- 
ingly  picturesque  situation,  and  the  fine  carvings  in  stone 
which  are  near.  Then  on,  past  a swampy  tract,  and  we 
come  to  the  Grand  Cairo  with  its  thousands  of  courtesans,  a 
small  city  by  itself. 

As  we  again  cross  the  canal,  and  enter  the  Japanese  sec- 
tion at  its  western  extremity,  we  find  ourselves  surrounded 
by  entirely  different  scenes  from  those  we  have  seen  in  Chi- 
nese cities.  Although  we  are  on  the  principal  street — called 
Curiosity  street,  from  the  numerous  curiosity  and  silk  shops 
whiph  line  its  sides — we  find  everything  scrupulously  neat 
and  clean,  and  are  not  annoyed  by  the  clamor  and  thronging 
of  business  which  ever  attend  a walk  through  a Chinese  city. 
There  is  activity  and  industry  everywhere  exhibited,  but 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


221 


conducted  in  an  orderly  and  subdued  manner.  The  sides  of 
the  streets  are  not  crowded  with  market  stands,  tea  and  cake 
shops,  or  those  pursuing  the  various  trades ; but  all  have 
shops  of  their  own. 

Everywhere  the  push-cart,  by  which  transporting  is  largely 
done,  is  met.  This  consists  of  a skeleton  box  resting  upon 
two  wooden  wheels  about  two  feet  and  a half  in  diameter. 
In  front  are  two  shafts  with  a cross-bar  at  the  ends,  at  the 
projecting  extremities  of  which,  two  push,  and  two  more  at 
the  rear,  resting  their  shoulders  against  bars  projecting  from 
the  axle-tree,  push  also,  all  keeping  time  with  a loud,  guttural 
chant.  These  are  the  only  wheeled  vehicles  to  be  seen 
throughout  the  Empire. 

On  or  near  all  the  bridges,  priests  and  devotees  are  seen 
sitting,  singing  and  tinkling  a small  bell.  These  have  the 
entire  head  shaven,  and  wear  a long  black  robe.  In  passing 
them,  those  so  inclined  gave  them  small  amounts  of  money, 
or  articles  of  food  and  clothing,  receiving  in  return  charms 
or  blessings. 

There  are  but  two  professions  in  Japan,  doctor  and  priest. 
The  doctor  ranks  with  the  privileged  class,  and  is  the  most 
important  man  in  a village  or  ward,  of  a city.  Although  the 
theory  of  their  practice  is  Chinese,  they  follow  the  teachings 
of  the  Dutch  to  a great  extent.  Some  of  the  more  modern 
schools  practice  essentially  the  same  as  ourselves,  but  the 
greater  number  follow  the  blisterings,  bleeding,  and  use  of 
mercuriales,  as  taught  by  the  most  ancient  Esculapians,  and  do 
infinitely  more  harm  than  good.  A doctor  never  sends  a bill. 
This  would  make  him  a trader,  which  all  gentlemen  scorn. 
The  remuneration  is  left  with  the  patient,  and  is  usually  a 
very  small  sum,  but  always  accompanied  with  great  ceremony 
in  its  payment. 

Before  leaving  China  for  Japan,  we  all  had  great  expecta- 
tions of  procuring  some  articles  of  lacquer  bijou,  for  which  the 
Japanese  have  been  celebrated  since  they  were  first  known 


222 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


to  Europeans.  Now  let  us  turn  to  Curiosity  street,  from 
which  we  have  been  digressing.  For  shop  signs  we  see 
large,  globular,  paper  lanterns,  suspended  in  front  with  Japa- 
nese characters  painted  upon  them  in  gay  colors.  The  shops 
themselves  are  entirely  open  in  front,  exposing  as  a promi- 
nent feature  some  splendid  articles  of  lacquer  work.  We 
see  them  ranged  along  the  open  front  sides,  and  piled  away 
at  the  back  on  shelves  to  the  roof.  The  articles  consist  of 
black  and  gold,  black  and  inlaid,  scarlet,  maroon,  gilded  and 
inlaid  boxes,  and  cabinets  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  vary- 
ing in  value  from  a few  cents  to  hundreds  of  dollars ; lac- 
quered cups  and  bowls,  waiters,  and  a great  variety  of  minor 
articles — whips,  tops,  poles,  fishing-rods,  turtle  boxes,  &c.,  of 
various  sizes,  shapes  and  colors,  maroon,  scarlet,  green,  and 
gold  predominating.  There  are  also  to  be  seen  small  collec- 
tions of  silks,  porcelain,  ivory  studs  and  sleeve-buttons,  with 
flies  of  bronze,  curious  chairs  of  bamboo,  and  turtles  of 
bronze.  With  such  an  extensive  and  tempting  variety  be- 
fore you,  you  hardly  know  what  you  desire  the  most,  and 
provided  your  purse  is  deep  enough  you  soon  find  yourself 
with  a load  that  you  are  hardly  able  to  carry,  and  still  not 
half  satisfied.  In  this  predicament  I found  myself  every 
time  that  I went  on  shore  at  Yokohama. 

Saturday  morning,  September  1st,  the  Hartford,  Wyoming 
and  Wachusett,  left  Yokohama  and  went  up  to  Yeddo,  some 
fifteen  miles  distant,  our  business  there  being  to  take  up  Gen- 
eral Van  Valkenburg,  United  States  Minister  to  Japan,  and 
Legation.  Before  we  arrived  there,  the  marines  of  the  ves- 
sels had  donned  their  uniform  dress,  and  had  everything 
bright  and  shining  in  readiness  to  go  ashore,  agreeable  to 
orders  received  before  leaving  Yokohama. 

Precisely  at  1 P.  M.,  the  barge  shoved  off  from  the  Hart- 
ford, bearing  General  Van  Valkenburg,  and  wife,  child,  and 
female  servant,  his  chief  of  staff  and  secretary,  with  Hon. 
Anson  Burlingame,  United  States  Minister  to  China.  As 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


223 


soon  as  they  were  clear,  the  Hartford  thundered  forth  the 
ministers’  salute  of  fifteen  guns.  Beside  the  barge  another 
boat  left  the  Hartford,  one  from  the  Wyoming  and  one  from 
us,  bearing  the  marines  from  the  respective  vessels. 

A pull  of  about  three  miles  brought  us  to  the  cordon  of 
forts  which  stretched  in  a semicircular  line  at  the  head  of 
Yeddo  Bay,  in  front  of  the  city,  and  about  two  miles  distant 
from  it.  These  forts — five  in  number — form  a cordon  of  about 
four  miles  in  length;  are  constructed  of  stone  with  thick, 
heavy  walls  ; mount  several  heavy  guns  each,  and  taken  as  de- 
fenses are  very  formidable.  On  account  of  the  shallowness 
of  the  water,  vessels  can  approach  but  little  nearer  than  three 
miles  of  these  forts,  and  within  the  cordon  the  water  is  so 
shallow  that  the  bottom  could  be  reached,  almost  anywhere 
with  a boat-hook.  Approaching  the  shore,  we  found  the 
banks  too  high  and  steep  to  land,  to  do  which,  we  pulled 
up  into  a small  cove  and  landed  over  numerous  small  boats. 
At  the  landing  we  were  met  by  several  Japanese  officials  and 
coolies  with  palanquins  for  the  ladies.  The  marines  were 
divided  into  two  platoons,  and  the  procession  formed  in  the 
following  order : — Fife  and  drum  in  front ; first  platoon  of 
marines ; ladies  in  sedan-chairs  with  the  ministers  and  mem- 
bers of  the  Legation  by  their  sides,  on  foot ; and  bringing  up 
the  rear,  the  second  platoon  of  marines.  By  the  sides  of  all 
walked  the  Japanese  officials.  Captain  James  Forney  of  the 
marine  corps  was  in  charge  of  the  escort. 

The  procession  thus  formed  moved  forward  through  an 
arched  way,  and  entered  the  city.  The  streets,  as  I have  be- 
fore remarked,  differ  from  those  of  Chinese  cities,  in  being  a 
little  wider  and  far  more  cleanly.  All  along  our  march  these, 
as  well  as  the  houses,  were  thronged  with  the  curious,  won- 
dering Japanese,  male  and  female,  old  and  young  of  every 
class  and  condition.  Among  the  spectators  were  a great 
many  females,  the  first  that  I had  noticed  with  any  particular 
attention.  Their  costume  is  similar  to  that  of  the  males,  ex- 


224 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


cept  that  the  robe  is  shorter,  and  they  have  an  addition  of 
petticoats  and  bodices.  The  hair  is  arranged  and  decorated 
in  a manner  similar  to  that  of  the  Chinese  ladies.  Fair, 
rosy-cheeked,  dark-eyed,  laughing-mouthed  beings,  the  young- 
er portion  of  them  are  almost  as  well  formed  and  featured  as 
European  females,  and  of  about  the  same  size.  Nearly  all 
' that  we  saw  of  a mature  age,  had  their  lips  and  teeth  stained 
black.  Their  reason  for  so  doing,  I was  not  able  to  find  out, 
other  than  that  it  is  the  custom  for  all  married  women  to 
do  so. 

Every  few  rods  along  our  route  we  would  pass  a fine  col- 
lection of  temples,  situated  in  beautiful  yards  like  the  houses 
of  the  better  class.  These  temples  are  the  most  costly  and 
stately  structures  in  the  empire ; in  numbers  far  surpassing 
the  churches  of  Catholic  countries.  They  ever  occupy  the 
most  prominent  sites,  are  shaded  by  the  finest  trees,  and  in 
all  their  surroundings,  there  is  more  skill  and  beauty  dis- 
played than  is  elsewhere  to  be  found  throughout  the  country. 
In  architecture,  the  Japanese  are  less  proficient  than  in  other 
branches  of  industry.  Temples,  gateways,  and  bridges  are 
their  principal  works,  and  are  the  only  edifices  constructed  of 
stone  or  brick.  The  reason  of  this  is,  that  at  any  moment 
the  city  or  town  may  be  visited  by  an  earthquake,  and  unless 
the  edifice  were  very  solidly  constructed,  they  would  be  de- 
molished. The  houses  are  rarely  more  than  one  and  one- 
half  stories  high,  built  of  wood,  and  have  tiled  roofs.  Oc- 
cupying the  most  prominent  and  beautiful  site  along  our 
route,  and  having  the  most  charming  surroundings,  was  an 
old  tower,  in  which  was  suspended  an  ancient  bell.  This  is 
covered  over  with  ancient  inscriptions,  and  is  said  to  be  over 
two  thousand  years  old.  The  Japanese  regard  it  with  ex- 
cessive veneration. 

After  marching  about  three  miles,  we  entered  upon  a bet- 
ter street,  lined  with  better  houses,  and  with  people  more 
respectable  looking  and  better  dressed  than  we  had  previous- 


225 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 

% 

ly  seen.  We  proceeded  but  a short  distance  up  this  street 
before  *we  turned  off  from  it  to  the  left,  and,  ascending  a 
slight  elevation,  entered  a courtyard,  and  found  ourselves  at 
the  residence  fitted  up  for  the  minister  and  family.  Near  it 
stood  a tall  flag-staff,  from  which  floated  the  stars  and  stripes. 
As  soon  as  we  had  stacked  arms  and  broken  ranks,  we  availed 
ourselves  of  the  minister’s  kind  permission  and  set  out  to 
explore  his  house  and  grounds.  The  latter  are  quite  exten- 
sive, bordered  on  the  front  and  left  sides  by  a high,  thick 
wall ; on  the  right  by  a series  of  temples,  and  at  the  rear  by 
a beautiful  grove.  They  are  finely  adorned  by  many  fruit 
and  shade  trees,  and  swimming  in  large  earthen  basins  are 
numbers  of  gold  and  silver  fish. 

The  residence  is  Anglo-Japanese  in  its  style  of  architect- 
ure, as  is  also  the  furniture,  although  the  greater  portion  of 
the  latter  is  of  European  manufacture.  The  floors  were  all 
covered  with  fine  white  matting,  the  mats  three  feet  by  six. 
and  two  inches  thick,  almost  too  white  and  clean  for  the  tread 
of  our  boots ; indeed,  the  Japanese,  as  is  their  custom,  put 
off  their  sandals  in  a small  area  before  treading  upon  them. 
The  peculiar,  soft,  white  wood  of  which  the  posts,  window- 
frames,  and  ceiling-joists  were  made,  was  unpainted.  The 
latter  were  excedingly  delicate,  hardly  thicker  than  the  wrist. 
Bolts  were  extensively  used  in  the  construction  of  the  build- 
ing, and  whenever  they  came  through  in  sight,  they  were 
crowned  with  hexagonal  or  octagonal  brass  nuts.  Light  win- 
dow frames  covered  with  a silky,  white,  semi-transparent 
paper  formed  the  windows.  The  whole  was  new  and  fresh, 
the  timber  a kind  of  satiny  white  pine,  covered  with  dark 
paint  when  exposed  to  the  weather,  but  otherwise  left  un- 
painted. The  building  was  roofed  with  different  colored  tiles 
with  ornamental  edges. 

This  description  will  answer  for  that  of  Japanese  houses 
in  general.  They  differ  of  course,  in  some  respects,  but  the 
main  features  are  the  same  in  all.  The  Japanese  seem  to 
11 

% 


226 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 

# 

excel  all  others  in  the  art  of  ventilation,  placing  windows 
and  partitions  so  that  the  air  in  entering  the  former,  strikes 
against  the  latter  and  is  diffused  through  every  apartment. 
The  partitions  are  not  generally  fixed,  but  so  constructed  that 
they  can  be  shifted,  and  arranged  at  pleasure.  After  about 
two  hours  very  pleasantly  passed  in  looking  about,  we  par- 
took of  some  refreshments  which  had  been  prepared  for  us, 
and  then  set  out  to  return,  leaving  the  Minister,  family,  and 
Legation  domiciled  in  a charming  residence  and  with  our  best 
wishes  for  their  happiness  and  success. 

Yeddo,  the  capital  of  the  Japanese  empire,  and  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Tycoon,  or  Temporal  ruler — lies  on  a beautiful 
and  highly  cultivated  plain  at  the  head  of  Yeddo  Bay.  The 
city  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  ex- 
clusive of  the  suburbs.  It  contains  a population  estimated 
at  from  one  million  and  a half  to  two  million  inhabitants. 
With  the  houses  constructed  of  such  light  material,  fires  are 
very  numerous  and  very  destructive.  Thousands  of  the 
houses  are  annually  laid  in  ashes,  and  it  is  estimated  that 
the  Tycoon’s  palace  has  to  be  rebuilt  at  least  every  five  or 
six  years.  The  most  destructive  fires  are  occasioned  by 
earthquakes,  when  the  conflagration  caused  by  falling  build- 
ings, breaks  out  in  almost  every  quarter  at  once.  It  is  said 
that  more  than  an  hundred  thousand  people  throughout  the 
empire  are  annually  buried  under  falling  buildings . To  pro- 
tect their  more  valuable  articles,  many  build  stone  houses 
under  ground,  or  fire  proof  safes  of  clay  and  plaster.  To 
the  westward  of  the  city  is  an  extensive  wild  tract,  which  is 
said  to  be  swampy.  The  view  from  our  anchorage  would 
not  lead  one  to  suppose  that  he  was  so  near  the  second  or 
third  largest  city  in  the  world.  Only  a few  houses  can  be 
seen,  the  vista  being  an  almost  uninterrupted  plain,  clothed 
with  trees  and  verdure.  There  is  no  sound  or  hum  of  busi- 
ness to  break  the  almost  solemn  stillness,  nor  any  sign  of 
that  source  of  prosperity  which  is  so  dear  to  western  nations, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER.  . 227 

t 

commerce.  Apparently  they  have  found  happiness  in  seclu- 
sion— as  the  strenuous  opposition  that  is  made  to  foreign  in- 
tercourse would  indicate — and  thus  afforded  an  answer  to  the 
question  as  to  whether  it  is  to  be  more  readily  found  in  se- 
clusion or  in  the  active  pursuits  of  life. 

Wednesday,  September  5th,  we  had  muster,  and  Com- 
mander Robert  W.  Shufeldt,  formerly  captain  of  the  Hart- 
ford, took  command  of  the  Wachusett.  His  address  to  us 
was  short  and  to  the  point,  and  I can  give  no  better  descrip- 
tion of  him  than  to  say  that  the  address  is  characteristic  of 
the  man.  He  spoke  as  follows  : 

“ I want  you  all  to  do  your  duty  as  men,  and  if  you  do,  as 
such  you  shall  be  treated ; and,  so  long  as  you  conduct  your- 
selves in  a proper  manner,  you  shall  have  every  privilege 
that  can  be  granted  consistently,  and  no  partiality  shall  be 
shown  to  officer  or  man,  any  farther  than  he  is  justly  enti- 
tled to.”  Thus  far  we  have  found  him  to  be  everything  that 
he  promised,  and  one  and  all  congratulate  ourselves  upon  our 
good  fortune  in  having  Captain  Townsend’s  place  so  well 
filled. 

Among  the  incidents  of  our  stay  at  Yeddo,  was  the  con- 
vening of  a general  court-martial  on  board  the  Wachusett, 
for  the  trial  of  a number  of  officers  and  men  belonging  to  the 
different  vessels  of  the  squadron.  The  charges  against  those 
tried  were  for  more  serious  offenses  than  those  usually 
brought  before  a summary  court-martial,  and  some  of  the 
sentences  were  for  two  and  three  years  in  State  prison  at 
hard  labor.  September  9th  we  returned  to  Yokohama. 
There  we  remained  till  the  13th,  taking  in  coal  and  provis- 
ions, and  getting  ready  for  sea. 

Soon  after  Captain  Shufeldt  came  on  board,  S sud- 

denly discovered  that  his  health  was  in  a delicate  ‘Condition, 
and  that  he  needed  a leave  of  absence  in  which  to  rest  and 
recuperate.  Accordingly,  on  our  return  to  Yokohama,  a 
sixty  days’  leave  of  absence  was  granted  him  by  the  Admiral, 


228  CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 

and  he  bade  us  “ good-bye  ” for  a time.  One  and  all  hope 
that  he  may  never  return,  and  it  is  confidently  asserted  that 
he  never  will,  but  that  he  will  take  immediate  passage  for 
the  United  States.  He  left  us  unregretted  by  a single  one. 
His  place  is  filled — and  well  filled — by  Assistant  Surgeon 
Page.  He  is  a fine-looking,  pleasant,  gentlemanly  young 
man,  of  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  and  no  novice  in  his 
profession.  He  came  highly  recommended  from  the  Hart- 
ford, to  which  vessel  he  was  attached. 

We  left  Yokohama  September  13th,  for  Nagasaki,  having 
Mr.  Burlingame  on  board  as  passenger.  As  soon  as  we 
emerged  from  Yeddo  Bay  and  entered  the  Pacific  Ocean,  we 
found  the  sea  to  be  very  rough,  and  the  vessel  rolled  and 
pitched  about  so  much  that  many  felt  a little  sea-sick.  On 
the  forenoon  of  the  following  day  we  were  caught  in  a bit  of 
a gale,  which  sprung  one  of  the  top-masts,  tore  up  the  sails, 
and  played  the  mischief  generally.  In  the  afternoon,  the 
wind  increasing  in  fury,  and  the  barometer  falling  rapidly, 
the  Captain  anticipated  a storm,  and  so  ran  into  the  little  bay 
of  Oosima  for  shelter.  Well  for  us  was  it  that  he  did  so, 
and  we  all  have  occasion  to  feel  grateful  to  Captain  Shufeldt 
for  the  exercise  of  superior  judgment  and  precaution;  for  we 
had  been  anchored  but  a short  time,  when  the  anticipated 
storm  commenced  to  rage  with  great  fury.  This  kept  stead- 
ily increasing  during  that  night  and  the  following  day,  and 
was  then  so  terrific  that  we  had  to  drop  the  sheet  anchor, 
house  top-masts,  and  keep  steaming  ahead,  to  avoid  being 
blown  ashore.  About  one  o’clock  Sunday  morning  when  the 
gale  was  at  its  height,  a bright  light  was  seen  in  the  direction 
of  Yokohama,  continuing  until  daybreak,  and  at  times  light- 
ing up  the  decks  so  clearly  that  a pin  could  be  seen  any- 
where about  them  as  well  as  by  daylight.  The  only  expla- 
nation of  this  phenomenon  that  has  been  made,  is  that  it 
must  have  been  caused  by  an  eruption  of  one  of  the  many 
volcanoes  which  line  the  Japanese  coast.  Shortly  after  that 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


229 


time  the  gale  began  to  subside,  and  before  noon  it  was  almost 
calm. 

The  harbor  at  Oosima  is  only  about  two-thirds  of  a mile 
in  circumference,  but  one  of  the  most  secure  and  picturesque 
that  I ever  saw.  It  is  completely  surrounded  by  a range  of 
high  hills  excepting  at  the  little,  narrow  entrance  on  the 
southwestern  side.  The  hills  are  in  a high  state  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  the  scenery  comprises  much  that  is  beautiful  and 
picturesque.  On  the  northwestern  side  of  the  bay  is  a small 
Japanese  town,  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  which  visited  us. 

As  soon  as  the  gale  subsided  we  got  under  way,  and  the 
following  morning  entered  King’s  Channel — the  northeastern 
entrance  of  the  Inland  Sea,  which  body  of  water  lies  between 
the  island  of  Niphon  on  the  north,  and  those  of  Sikok  and 
Krusur  on  the  south.  This  entrance  is  very  narrow,  and 
guarded  by  two  formidable  forts.  The  sea  is  divided  into 
several  sounds,  which  take  their  name  from  the  provinces 
whose  shores  they  wash.  As,  Suwo  Nada  is  the  Sound- 
Nada — which  washes  the  shores  of  the  province  of  Suwo ; 
and  so  on  with  Bingo  Nada,  Sima  Nada,  and  the  others.  At 
the  straits  connecting  these  sounds,  are  erected  strong  stone 
forts,  mounting  many  heavy  guns,  and  in  construction  quite 
European.  All  the  time  that  we  were  passing  through  the 
Sea,  we  had  the  battery  loaded  and  everything  ready  for  in- 
stant action.  We  took  this  precaution  because  the  Inland 
Sea  is  not  open  to  foreign  passage ; none  but  men- of- war 
attempt  to  go  through,  and  they  are  sometimes  fired  upon. 
Only  a few  weeks  ago  a Sardinian  man-of-war  was  fired  upon 
and  forced  to  turn  back. 

We  were  from  Monday  morning  until  Wednesday  ftoon 
in  making  the  passage,  (coming  to  anchor  on  both  nights,) 
and  I can  but  say  that  it  was  the  most  delightful  trip  that  I 
ever  had.  This  feeling  seemed  to  be  common  to  all,  and  ev- 
erything was  laid  aside  to  behold  and  enjoy  the  many  objects 
of  interest  and  beauty  which  were  constantly  presented  to 


230 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


our  view.  In  some  places  the  sea  is  very  wide,  and  in  oth- 
ers so  narrow  that  the  shores  are  hardly  a stone’s  throw  dis- 
tant; but  at  no  point  were  we  far  from  land,  for  the  sea  is 
thickly  studded  with  islands  throughout  its  whole  extent. 
The  shores  are  lined  with  neat  and  pretty  Japanese  towns 
and  villages,  at  times  so  near  each  other  as  to  appear  like 
one  vast  continuous  city. 

This  surface  is,  for  the  most  part  very  mountainous,  but 
the  scenery  beautiful  and  picturesque  in  the  extreme,  by  far 
surpassing  that  of  the  Canton  and  Yangste-kiang  rivers,  of 
which  I thought  and  spoke  so  highly.  The  sharp-pointed 
mountains  are  clothed  with  verdure  to  their  very  summits,  and 
the  steep  valleys  running  up  between  these  mountains 
together  with  the  almost  innumerable  islands  of  every  con- 
ceivable form  and  size,  are  neatly  cultivated  in  terraces  or 
shelves,  rising  one  above  another,  and  diminishing  in  breadth 
until  they  terminate  in  the  deep  angle  of  the  nook  of  the 
former  or  in  a pretty  summer-house  or  pavilion  on  the  latter. 
The  picturesque  beauty  and  richness  of  these  valleys,  which 
sweep  down  to  the  sea  from  the  mountain  interior  is  unsur- 
passed. From  springs  at  their  heads,  water  is  collected  in 
reservoirs,  and  then  let  out  at  pleasure,  in  winding  channels 
which  empty  upon  the  rice  fields  along  their  course,  or  on 
the  low  lands  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  The  gentle 
slopes  are  devoted  to  upland  grains,  cultivated  in  small  plots 
like  garden  beds,  the  beauty  of  their  checkered  appearance 
heightened  by  patches  of  snowy  cotton.  The  farm  houses 
and  smaller  villages  usually  occupy  some  sheltered  ravine  or 
sequestered  nook  at  the  foot  of  a wooded  hill,  or  among  forest 
trees’  and  luxuriant  shrubbery,  so  that  one  is  frequently  sur- 
prised by  a village,  when  he  is  not  thinking  to  be  near  a 
human  abode. 

The  sides  of  the  islands  are  usually  very  precipitous  and 
laid  out  in  winding  terraces.  On  these  terraces  are  cultivated 
grains,  vegetables,  shrubs  and  flowers.  On  the  summits  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


231 


many  of  the  islands,  the  summer-houses  and  pavilions  are 
embowered  in  beautiful  groves  of  fruit  trees.  At  points 
along  the  shores,  and  on  some  of  the  islands,  the  surface  is 
ragged  and  rocky,  and  covered  with  beautiful  shrubbery,  as 
if  by  its  loveliness  it  would  hide  all  defects  of  nature,  and  in 
reality  making  the  scenery  ten-fold  more  lovely. 

Wednesday  night  we  anchored  some  fifty  miles  from  the 
southwestern  entrance  of  the  Inland  Sea.  Soon  after  an- 
choring we  were  boarded  by  a Japanese  official  who  impe- 
riously demanded  our  business  there,  and  by  what  right  we 
had  anchored.  Capt.  Shufeldt  politely  replied,  “ It  suited 
us,”  and  with  this  he  was  forced  to  be  content.  We  got  un- 
der way  again  soon  after  daylight,  and  at  three  o’clock  in  the 
afternoon  we  were  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  of  Naga- 
saki. This  is  guarded  by  a number  of  small  batteries,  loca- 
ted on  terraces  of  the  high  eminences,  which  line  either  side. 
As  we  passed  through  it  and  opened  the  bay,  the  boatswain 
remarked,  “ I have  been  going  to  sea  for  more  than  forty 
years,  and  have  visited  almost  every  nook  and  corner  on  the 
globe,  but  I never  saw  a more  beautiful  harbor  than  this,  nor 
one  more  secure !”  It  truly  is  a most  beautiful  and  secure 
harbor.  About  six  miles  in  circumference,  it  is  almost  com- 
pletely land-locked — completely  but  for  the  narrow  entrance, 
and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  a chain  of  high  hills.  These 
are  cultivated  in  the  terrace  form  to  their  very  summits,  and 
covered  with  beautiful  and  variegated  verdure. 

The  native  town  is  very  large  and  picturesquely  situated 
upon  the  side  of  a hill  at  the  southwestern  side  of  the  har- 
bor. Separated  by  a narrow  ravine,  and  also  built  upon  the 
side  of  a hill  at  the  western  side  is  the  foreign  town  con- 
taining a few  fine  houses  of  business  and  residence,  which 
occupy  prominent  sites.  Besides  these  there  are  the  usual 
appendages  of  a few  poorer  houses,  and  a number  of  sailor- 
boarding houses  and  drinking-shops. 

I have  made  no  mention  as  yet  of  the  Japanese  currency. 


232 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Those  denominations  that  I have  seen  in  use  are,  one,  two 
and  a half,  half,  and  quarter  Itzabo  pieces,  and  tempos.  Ex- 
cepting the  last  mentioned,  these  are  square  in  form.  The 
Itzabo  piece  is  of  silver,  about  an  inch  in  length,  two-thirds 
in  width,  and  one-eighth  in  thickness.  Value,  thirty-three 
cents.  The  edges  are  bordered,  and  on  each  side  are  several 
Japanese  characters.  Similar  in  form  and  proportions  and 
also  of  silver  are  the  quarter  Itzabo  pieces.  The  two  and  a 
half,  and  half  Itzabo  pieces  have  the  same  form  and  general 
features  of  the  others,  but  consist  of  silver  coins  covered  with 
a thin  coating  of  gold.  The  former  are  about  one-third  the 
size  of  the  Itzabo  pieces,  and  the  latter  about  one-fourth  the 
size  of  the  former.  The  tempos  are  of  copper,  oval  in  form, 
and  about  two  inches  in  length,  by  one  and  one-third  in 
breadth.  On  the  sides  are  two  or  three  characters,  and  in 
the  center  is  a square  hole  by  means  of  which  they  are  strung 
on  bamboo  fibres,  like  Chinese  “cash,”  in  masses  of  the  value 
of  an  Itzabo.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  empire  this  takes 
but  sixteen  or  seventeen, — each  one  being  of  the  value  of 
two  cents, — but  here,  twenty-five  are  given  for  one  Itzabo. 
Besides  those  that  I have  mentioned  there  are  Cobangs — of 
gold,  of  about  the  same  size  and  form  as  the  tempos,  but 
thinner  and  without  the  square  hole  in  the  center.  In  value 
they  are  equal  to  twenty-one  Itzabos.  They  are  not  now  in 
circulation,  and  are  sometimes  worn  as  a mark  of  distinction 
or  rank. 

“I  think  that  it  would  be  much  more  pleasant  to  take  a view 
of  Nagasaki  from  horseback,  than  to  go  all  over  it  on  foot, 
and  besides  I would  like  to  have  a horseback  ride,  it  is  so 
long  since  I had  one,”  said  friend  A — , to  me  soon  after  we 
landed  the  other  day,  the  first  time  that  we  had  been  on  shore 
since  our  arrival.  I was  of  the  same  mind,  so  we  set  out  for 
the  stables,  to  procure  horses.  While  they  were  preparing 
them  for  us,  I noticed  that  the  horses  were  included  in  the 
general  fashion  of  wearing  sandals ; for  instead  of  being 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


233 


shod,  as  is  common  with  us,  every  time  that  they  are  used 
thick  straw  sandals  are  strapped  upon  each  foot.  These  will 
last  about  one  day,  and  effectually  protect  the  hoofs  from  the 
small  round  stones  with  which  the  streets  are  for  the  most 
part  paved.  The  horses  being  saddled,  bridled,  and  sandaled , 
we  mounted  and  tried  their  mettle  in  a race  along  the  Bund 
in  front  of  the  town.  This  showed  us  that  they  were  smart 
and  active  as  well  as  easy  riders.  A ride  of  a few  minutes 
brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the  native  town 
is  built.  The  streets  of  this  we  found  to  be  unusually  wide, 
neatly  paved  and  clean.  The  latter  is  owing  in  a great  meas- 
ure, doubtless,  to  the  great  slope  of  the  hill  on  which  the  town 
is  built,  so  that  all  the  dirt  and  filth  is  carried  off  by  the  rains. 
Stopping  every  few  minutes  to  examine  the  many  curious 
articles  exposed  for  sale  in  the  shops,  also  to  witness  several 
street  theatrical  and  jugglery  performances,  it  was  at  least 
three  hours  before  we  reached  the  summit  at  the  back  of  the 
town,  and  from  which  place  we  had  a fine  view  of  it.  When 
about  to  return,  we  found  that  riding  down  stairs,  (there  are 
so  many  steps  in  the  streets  that  each  one  is  like  a long  flight 
of  stairs,)  was  a different  thing  from  riding  up  ; and,  not 
having  the  same  inducement  for  so  doing  that  General  Put- 
nam had,  we  concluded  that  we  would  dismount  and  lead  our 
horses.  Notwithstanding  this  little  inconvenience  we  en- 
joyed ourselves  and  our  view  of  Nagasaki  from  horseback 
very  much. 

Before  leaving  Japan  I must  say  a few  words  more  regard- 
ing the  Japanese.  I have  seen  comparatively  little  of  them, 
but  still  enough  to  say  unhesitatingly,  that  they  are  by  far  the 
most  intelligent,  and  farthest  advanced  in  the  civilized  arts 
and  sciences  of  any  people  of  the  East.  Their  intelligence 
may  be  noticed  in  that  carefulness  and  understanding  with 
which  everything  about  an  European  man-of-war  is  exam- 
ined, and  in  their  construction  of  forts,  from  drafts  which 
they  themselves  made  of  those  in  Europe  and  America ; the 
11* 


234 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


forts  being  built  by  their  own  engineers,  and  comparing  fa- 
vorably with  the  models. 

In  the  strict  sense  of  the  word  the  Japanese  are  manufac- 
turers. They  have  no  complicated  machinery,  and  the  turn- 
ing lathe,  though  extensively  used,  is  so  rudely  constructed, 
that  it  does  not  deserve  the  name  of  machine.  However,  it 
turns  out  many  of  the  finest  specimens  in  the  world.  The 
articles  manufactured  by  them  not  only  display  great  inge- 
nuity and  skill,  but  good  taste  in  the  form,  color,  and  pattern  ; 
indeed,  in  these  respects,  they  are  hardly  equaled  by  any. 
The  Japanese  swords  have  acquired  a world  wide  celebrity, 
both  on  account  of  the  fineness  of  the  steel,  and  their  supe- 
rior finish ; to  the  keenness  of  the  edge  of  these  swords,  many 
foreigners  as  well  as  natives  can  affirm  from  experience.  In 
inventions,  the  Japanese  are  more  destitute  than  their  gen- 
eral intelligence  would  seem  to  warrant.  This  may  be  ac- 
counted for  by  two  special  reasons  ; one  is*  that  the  govern- 
ment seems  rather  to  discourage  anything  that  tends  to 
change  old  established  customs  ; and  the  other  is,  that  there 
is  no  protection  given  to  inventions  by  patent  rights,  as  there 
is  at  home.  We  are  indebted  to  the  Japanese,  however,  for 
two  inventions  ; one,  that  of  making  masts  for  ships  by  bind- 
ing together  a number  of  pieces ; and  the  other,  the  art  of 
fastening  false  teeth  to  a plate.  The  Japanese  are  almost 
perfect  imitators.  With  their  imperfect  means,  they  will 
from  models  make  anything  from  a glass  bottle  to  a telegraph 
or  a steam  engine.  In  their  fine  arts,  they  surpass  the  Chi- 
nese, and  even  excel  other  nations  in  their  paintings  of  birds, 
flowers,  and  fishes.  Their  landscapes,  and  portraits  of  men 
or  animals  are  badly  executed.  Some  of  their  carvings  that 
I have  seen  are  truly  wonderful,  and  their  articles  in  bronze 
are  said  to  nearly  equal  those  of  French  manufacture. 

As  a nation,  the  Japanese  are  warlike  and  brave ; they 
never  ask  for  quarter,  and  never  give  it ; they  never  shrink 
from  danger,  but  rather  seem  to  take  pleasure  in  being  placed 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


235 


in  trying  situations.  Out  of  their  army,  of  more  than  half  a 
million,  only  a very  few  will  use  fire  arms,  preferring  swords, 
and  considering  it  disgraceful  to  fight  in  any  way  but  at  close 
quarters.  Hari-kari  or  self-destruction  for  criminal  offenses, 
is  practiced  only  by  the  privileged  classes.  The  word  is  de- 
rived from  two  others — hari  bowels ; and  hari  to  cut.  It  is 
a privilege  enjoyed  only  by  the  nobility,  and  then  only  for 
certain  crimes.  By  putting  himself  to  death,  a person  of 
rank  not  only  saves  himself  from  an  ignoble  end  by  the  hands 
of  the  common  executioner,  but  also  saves  his  family  from 
disgrace  and  property  from  confiscation.  This  is  the  only 
purpose  for  which  the  short  sword  is  used,  and  the  privilege 
of  committing  Hari-kari  is  sought  as  a great  boon  by  of- 
fenders. 


236 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XXIV, 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hong  Kong,  China, ) 
Nov.  2d,  1866.  ) 

My  Dear  R. : 

We  left  Nagasaki  September  24th,  arriving  here  the  29th, 
having  made  the  distance  in  the  uncommonly  short  time  of 
five  days.  With  the  exception  of  a little  gale  which  lasted 
about  eight  hours,  our  passage  was  a very  pleasant  one,  with 
strong,  fair  winds,  and  the  sea  quite  smooth  all  the  time.  A 
total  eclipse  of  the  moon  was  the  only  unusual  item  of  in- 
terest. 

After  a stay  here  of  about  three  weeks,  during  which  time 
we  had  five  or  six  court-martials  for  trivial  offenses,  enjoyed 
general  liberty,  and  “ coaled  ship,”  Saturday,  October  13th 
we  went  up  to  Macao.  The  occasion  of  our  going  there  was 
th e fete  held  the  15th  inst.,  upon  the  retiring  of  the  old  Gov- 
ernor and  the  arrival  of  the  new  one — the  fifteenth  of  the 
Colony.  The  most  prominent  feature  of  the  fete,  was  a ball 
given  on  the  evening  of  the  15th,  and  which  two  or  three  of 
the  officers  attended. 

We  left  Macao  the  following  day,  and,  instead  of  return- 
ing direct  to  Hong  Kong  as  was  the  general  expectation,  spent 
three  days  in  cruising  about  the  islands  off  the  mouth  of  the 
Canton  river,  in  quest  of  pirates,  who  of  late  have  been  grow- 
ing to  be  very  numerous,  bold,  and  troublesome.  These  pi- 
rates originated  during  some  of  the  early  Chinese  revolu- 
tions, and  have  always  played  an  important  part  in  every 
subsequent  one.  Merchant  junks  trading  between  the  dif- 
ferent ports  carry  guns  for  protection,  and  whenever  a good 
opportunity  offers  itself,  they  turn  into  pirates.  Imperial 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


237 


war  junks,  sent  out  to  destroy  these  pirates,  have  in  many 
instances  become  pirates  themselves.  Their  latest  great  ad- 
dition they  had  in  the  war  junks  of  the  late  Taeping  rebels? 
which  escaped  capture.  Their  junks  do  not  differ  in  appear- 
ance from  the  merchant  or  war  junks ; in  fact,  the  pirates 
follow  whichever  vocation  is  the  most  lucrative  for  the  time 
being,  and  so  it  is  almost  impossible  to  distinguish  them,  un- 
less taken  in  the  very  act  of  piracy.  These  junks  are  some- 
times of  three  or  four  hundred  tons  burden,  or  more  even, 
and  are  the  largest  vessels  that  the  Chinese  possess.  They 
carry  an  enormous  amount  of  sail,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
oars,  and  are  armed  with  batteries  of  from  four  to  twenty 
guns  each,  chiefly  six  and  twelve  pounders,  with  an  occa- 
sional twenty-four.  These  might  be  quite  formidable,  but 
not  one  out  of  every  fifty  of  the  pirates  understands  the 
simplest  principles  of  gunnery,  and  it  is  through  chance  alone 
that  they  are  ever  guilty  of  hitting  an  object. 

Their  usual  time  for  attacking  a vessel  is  when  she  is  ly- 
ing becalmed,  at  which  time  they  can  easily  get  alongside  by 
means  of  their  oars.  The  usual  mode  of  procedure  is  to 
throw  one  of  their  “stink  pots” — earthern  pots,  charged  .with 
offensive  and  suffocating  material—  on  board,  which  drives 
every  one  below,  and  before  they  can  again  ascend,  the  ves- 
sel is  in  the  possession  of  the  pirates.  They  seldom  kill  any 
one,  but  after  ransacking  the  vessel  and  taking  what  they 
want,  leave  her. 

Of  late  many  of  the  merchantmen  trading  with  this  part 
of  the  world  have  begun  to  carry  a few  small  pieces  of  can- 
non, and  a supply  of  small  arms  with  which  to  defend  them- 
selves ; these,  the  pirates  seldom  molest,  and  whenever  they 
do  they  are  sure  to  get  worsted.  They  used  to  confine  their 
depredations  to  native  junks,  and  smaller  craft,  and  it  is  only 
of  late  years  that  they  have  ventured  to  attack  foreign  mer- 
chantmen. Shortly  after  our  arrival  here  from  Nagasaki, 
an  American  bark  sailed  for  the  states.  A week  later  she 


238 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


returned  into  port,  telling  the  following  sad  story : The 

second  day  out  she  was  becalmed,  and  toward  evening,  was 
attacked  by  pirates.  Being  without  arms,  the  crew  could 
make  no  resistance.  After  ransacking  the  vessel,  and  taking 
what  they  wanted,  the  pirate  chief  entered  the  cabin,  where 
the  Captain  was  sitting  on  the  sofa  by  the  side  of  his  wife, 
and  deliberately  shot  him  dead ; then  without  a word  he 
turned  on  his  heel,  and  with  his  band  left  the  ship.  The 
wife  recognized  the  chief  as  one  whom  her  husband,  by  some 
unknown  means  had  made  an  enemy  of  while  lying  at  Hong 
Kong.  Our  cruise  after  pirates  proved  an  unsuccessful  one, 
and  October  20th  we  returned  to  Hong  Kong,  where  we 
have  since  remained. 

During  our  stay  here,  our  band  has  received  a valuable 
addition  in  an  excellent  bugler  which  we  enlisted.  All 
the  calls  are  now  done  by  the  bugle,  such  as  quarters,  sick- 
call,  boats’  call,  reveille  and  tattoo.  The  bugler  also  accom- 
panies the  other  musicians  in  playing  “ colors  ” and  “retreat.” 

The  demoralizing  and  exterminating  effects  of  the  use  of 
opium,  are  plainly  marked  among  the  Chinese.  When  the 
habit  is  once  formed,  it  grows  until  it  becomes  inveterate ; 
discontinuance  is  more  and  more  difficult,  until  at  length  the 
sudden  deprivation  of  the  accustomed  indulgence  produces 
certain  death.  It  is  calculated  that  every  opium  smoker 
shortens  his  life  at  least  ten  years  from  the  lime  that  he  com- 
mences the  practice ; one-half  of  his  physical  energies  are 
soon  gone,  and  his  earnings  rapidly  diminished ; then  feeling 
strength  and  income  both  diminishing,  he  plunges  into  crime 
to  obtain  what  he  is  no  longer  able  to  procure  by  labor,  and 
drags  down  into  the  vortex  of  ruin  his  dependent  relatives, 
and  all  within  the  sphere  of  his  influence.  It  is  no  uncom- 
mon thing  to  see  those  that  are  no  longer  able  to  gratify  the 
cravings  of  their  appetites,  hanging  their  heads  by  the  doors 
of  the  opium  shops,  which  the  hard-hearted  keepers,  having 
fleeced  them  of  their  all,  will  not  permit  them  to  enter.  Thus 


# 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


239 


shut  out  from  their  own  dwellings  eithe^by  angry  friends,  or 
ruthless  creditors,  they  die  in  the  streets  unpitied  and  des- 
pised. 

During  one  of  my  rambles  on  shore  a short  time  ago,  I 
paid  a visit  to  an  opium  shop.  Four  or  five  rooms  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  a square  court  were  occupied  by  men  stretched 
out  on  rude  couches  with  head-pillows  and  the  apparatus  for 
smoking  opium.  The  latter  consists  of  a glass  covered  lamp 
with  a small  circular  opening  at  the  top  ; a pipe  consisting 
of  a tube,  somewhat  resembling  a flute — near  one  extremity 
of  which  is  an  earthen  bowl,  the  circular  cavity  in  which  is 
barely  one-sixth  of  an  inch  in  diameter ; a bent,  knife-like 
instrument,  for  cleaning  the  bowl ; a pair  of  scissors  ; a jar 
of  opium,  and  a long  needle.  In  one  corner  of  the  principal 
room  stood  the  proprietor,  with  delicate  steel-yards  weighing 
out  the  prepared  drug,  which  is  of  a dark,  thick,  semi-fluid 
consistency.  The  smoker  places  himself  in  the  position  for 
smoking,  by  reclining  at  full  length  on  one  side ; then,  gath- 
ers up  a small  quantity  of  the  drug  on  the  point  of  the  needle 
and  holds  it  over  the  lamp  until  it  is  sufficiently  dried.  He 
then  forms  it  into  an  appropriately  shaped  roll,  and  inserts 
it  into  the  bowl  of  the  pipe.  This  done,  he  holds  the  bowl 
so  that  the  blaze  of  the  lamp  can  touch  the  opium  and  takes 
several  quick,  deep  inspirations,  until  it  is  consumed,  all  the 
time  retaining  the  smoke,  and  then  allowing  it  to  escape  slow- 
ly-from  the  mouth  and  nostrils.  Some  require  as  many  as 
twenty-five  pipes  full,  before  they  succumb  to  its  intoxicat- 
ing effects.  In  the  shop  could  be  seen  those  in  every  stage 
of  intoxication,  from  those  just  experiencing  its  effects  to 
those  carried  into  an  inner  apartment,  apparently  dead,  by 
the  attendants  which  are  appointed  for  that  special  purpose. 
The  opium  smokers  formed  a motley  group  of  sallow,  sunken 
cheeks,  and  glassy,  watery  eyes,  all  with  an  idiotic  look,  and 
vacant  stare — the  most  miserable  and  abject  beings  that  I 
ever  saw.  The  intoxicating,  exterminating,  and  demoraliz- 


240 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


ing  effects  of  opium  lire  far  worse  than  those  of  ardent  spirits, 
more  speedily  and  effectually  destroying  the  mental,  moral, 
and  physical  systems,  and  causing  even  a more  premature 
death.  The  fumes  are  not  unpleasant ; in  fact,  they  have 
rather  an  attraction,  but  after  a short  stay  in  the  shop,  I felt 
quite  faint  and  sick  from  them,  and  was  forced  to  leave. 

“ Old  Sam  ” is  an  inveterate  opium  smoker,  and  when  he 
was  at  one  time  on  board  of  us  for  a few  days,  I used  to 
watch  him  while  taking  his  usual  smoke.  After  some  little 
difficulty,  I at  length  prevailed  upon  him  to  let  me  have  a 
smoke.  I found  it  to  have  a soothing,  pleasing  effect,  and  no 
longer  wondered  at  the  pleasure  which  a smoker  of  opium 
derives  from  it,  or  that  one  so  seldom  breaks  himself  from  the 
habit,  when  once  it  is  formed.  I took  only  two  or  three 
whiffs,  but  my  head  swam  as  if  I had  been  whirled  around 
and  around  in  a swing.  One  time  I asked  Old  Sam,  if  he 
did  not  know  that  opium  was  killing  him,  and  why  he  did 
not  leave  off  using  it.  He  replied,  “ My  sabee,  he  makee 
kill  me,  but  suppose  my  no  usee  he,  he  makee  kill  me  all  de 
same.”  Again  when  I asked  him  what  he  would  do  if  his 
son,  of  whom  he  is  very  fond — should  begin  to  use  opium, 
he  replied,  “ My  sooner  see  makee  die  than  see  he  makee 
usee  de  opium.” 

Among  the  places  of  interest  in  Hong  Kong,  of  which  I 
as  yet  have  made  no  particular  mention,  are  the  Public  Gar- 
dens and  Central  Market.  The  latter  lies  between  Queen’s, 
Road  and  the  Bund,  and  is  about  five  hundred  yards  in  length 
by  three  hundred  in  breadth.  There  are  upwards  of  twenty 
streets  leading  through  it  from  Queen’s  Road  to  the  Bund 
and  these  are  all  connected  together  by  numerous  cross 
streets.  In  one  quarter  are  the  meat  and  fish  stalls,  in  an- 
other the  vegetable  stalls,  in  still  another  the  fruit  stalls,  and 
so  on  an  assortment  and  abundance  of  almost  every  conceiv- 
able article  of  food.  The  stall  keepers  are  all  Chinamen, 
and  for  the  most  part  are  also  the  proprietors.  At  any  hour 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


241 


of  the  day  there  can  be  seen  thousands  making  purchases, 
from  the  poor,  wretched  Chinese  beggar  buying  a few  cash 
worth  of  rice,  fish,  and  vegetables,  to  the  Captain  or  Purser 
making  contracts  for  several  thousand  dollars  worth  of  sea- 
stores. 

The  Public  Gardens  are  situated  on  a sloping,  uneven 
shelf  of  the  mountain,  back  of  the  Governor’s  mansion  and 
grounds.  They  comprise  about  twenty  acres,  beautifully 
and  tastefully  laid  out  in  walks,  terraced  beds  of  flowers 
and  shrubbery,  and  scattered  here  and  there  different  species 
of  trees.  Everything  there  growing  is  quite  young  yet,  it 
being  but  a few  years  since  the  Gardens  were  established,  but 
in  a few  years  they  promise  to  become  most  charming.  ’Tis 
pleasant  to  go  there  now  upon  a fine  evening,  when  the 
wealth,  beauty,  and  fashion  of  the  city  are  out  for  a prom- 
enade, and  the  band  is  playing. 

A pleasant  sail  of  about  twenty  minutes,  brought  a friend 
and  myself,  the  other  day,  to  the  opposite  or  Kowloon  shore 
of  the  bay  two  miles  distant  from  our  anchorage.  It  is  per- 
fectly secure  and  safe  now,  but  it  is  scarcely  ten  years  since 
it  was  almost  certain  death  for  any  Fankwei  (i.  e.,  White 
Devil,  as  the  Chinese  call  all  Westerns)  to  be  found  wander- 
ing there.  Near  the  landing,  where  the  chaingang  have 
been  at  work  getting  dirt  and  stones  from  the  steep  ban  to 
extend  the  Bund,  we  noticed  several  stone  pillars,  twenty  or 
thirty  feet  in  height,  perfect  cones  and  pyramids  in  form. 
They  were  evidently  the  work  of  Nature,  but  the  art  of  man 
could  scarcely  produce  any  more  perfect.  The  principal  ob- 
ject of  our  visit  was  to  search  for  shells,  and  in  this  we  were 
rewarded  by  a few  curious  specimens. 

Last  Monday,  October  29th,  Mr.  Knapp — Second  Assistant 
Engineer,  and  Samuel  Falstead — ordinary  seaman,  were 
sent  aboard  the  American  ship  Powhattan,  for  passage  to 
the  States,  they  having  been  condemned  by  Medical  Survey. 
The  following  evening  Hong  Kong  was  visited  by  a destruc- 


242 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


tive  fire  ; it  was  confined  to  the  Chinese  quarter,  of  which 
over  three  hundred  houses  were  consumed.  It  seems  strange 
that  so  large  a city  as  Hong  Kong  should  have  no  organized 
fire  department ; there  is  not  even  a fire  engine,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a small  one  at  the  barracks.  I have  heard  no 
expressions  of  regret  for  the  fire,  made  by  Europeans  ; on 
the  contrary,  they  appear  to  rejoice  at  its  occurrence,  for  the 
Chinese  have  by  far  the  best  locations  in  the  city,  and  the 
Europeans  have  long  coveted  them  for  building  purposes. 

The  weather  is  getting  to  be  quite  cool  here  now,  the  ther- 
mometer seldom  standing  higher  than  75°  above  zero.  This 
even,  may  seem  quite  warm  to  you  to  be  called  cool  weather, 
but  it  is  so  much  cooler  than  we  have  had  in  a long  time,  that 
it  seems  quite  cold  to  us.  The  ship’s  company  have  not  been 
in  better  health  at  any  time  during  the  cruise,  and  colds  are 
the  only  sickness  that  any  have.  When  we  left  the  States 
we  had  quite  cold  weather  for  a time,  but  of  late  it  has  been 
an  almost  unvarying  summer,  the  change  of  seasons  being 
marked  only  by  the  change  of  names.  It  is  now  the  gen- 
eral expectation  that  we  will  go  to  the  southward  before  long 
to  spend  the  winter  around  the  East  India  isles,  unless  we  re- 
ceive orders  to  start  for  home ; which,  I am  sorry  to  say 
does  not  look  very  probable  at  present.  If  it  would  do  any 
good  I would  wish  that  we  might  start  to-morrow,  but  wishes 
and  desires  I do  not  expect  will  be  regarded. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


243. 


LETTER  XXV. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hong  Kong,  China,) 
Dec.  6th,  1866.  > 

My  Dear  R. : 

We  left  Hong  Kong,  Saturday  morning,  November  3d, 
upon  a cruise  to  the  northward,  stopping  at  several  points 
along  the  coast,  and  going  as  far  as  Amoy.  After  remain- 
ing there  a few  days,  we  returned,  arriving  here  the  29th, 
having  had  a very  pleasant  and  interesting  cruise. 

While  \\  e were  weighing  anchor,  and  making  the  usual 
preparations  for  leaving  here,  a police  boat  from  the  shore 
came  alongside,  bringing  two  Chinamen  who  said  that  their 
boat  had  been  taken  from  them  by  pirates  a few  days  previous, 
and  asked  assistance  from  us  in  redressing  their  wrongs.  As 
the  principal  object  of  this  cruise  was  to  search  for  pirates, 
their  request  was  granted,  and  they  were  taken  along  with 
us,  to  point  out  where  their  vessel  was  seized,  and  to  give 
such  other  information  as  they  might  be  able.  “ Old  Sam  ” 
also  accompanied  us  for  the  double  purpose  of  acting  as  in- 
terpreter and  pilot. 

After  steaming  about  thirty  miles,  early  in  the  forenoon, 
we  dropped  anchor  in  the  pretty  little  harbor  of  Tsing  Hoy. 
On  the  western  side  of  it  is  quite  a large  Chinese  city,  hav- 
ing no  foreign  residents  except  two  French  Catholic  mission- 
aries. These,  as  is  usual  under  such  circumstances,  have 
adopted  the  dress  and  most  of  the  customs  of  the  Chinese, 
and  could  barely  be  distinguished  from  the  Chinese  them- 
selves. Lying  at  anchor  there,  were  ten  Imperial  war  junks, 
with  the  Admiral  of  which  the  customary  salutes  were  ex- 
changed, In  the  afternoon  he  paid  us  a visit,  when  the 
usual  routine  of  parading,  inspecting,  and  saluting  had  to  be 


r244 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


gone  through  with.  After  having  heard  their  story  he  took 
the  Chinamen  which  we  had  brought  from  Hong  Kong  away 
with  him,  and  said  that  he  would  search  after  the  pirates 
with  his  fleet.  The  signification  of  Tsing  Hoy  is  “ level  wa- 
ter,” and  indeed  the  harbor  is  most  appropriately  named  ; for 
it  is  one  of  the  smoothest  and  most  beautiful  sheets  of  water 
I ever' saw. 

We  left  at  daybreak  the  next  morning  expecting  to  reach 
Swaton,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  northeastward, 
that  same  night ; but,  owing  to  a strong  head  wind  which  we 
had  to  encounter,  we  did  not  arrive  until  about  noon  the  next 
day. 

Swaton  is  situated  about  two  miles  from  the  head  of  a 
narrow  bight  which  extends  back  from  the  sea  some  seven 
or  eight  miles.  On  the  right  hand  side  of  the  entrance  is  a 
small  rocky  island,  upon  which  is  an  old,  walled,  Chinese 
town.  From  there,  nearly  up  to  the  anchorage,  the  shores 
are  for  the  most  part  rocky  and  barren.  Near  the  town  the 
bight  widens  a little,  and  the  country  grows  less  rocky  and 
more  productive.  The  southern  side  of  the  harbor  is  lined 
by  a range  of  hills  sweeping  down  almost  to  the  edge  of  the 
water,  upon  the  sides  of  which  may  be  noticed  patches  of 
grain  and  vegetables.  Stretching  along  the  narrow  strip  at 
their  foot  are  the  houses  and  grounds  of  the  Consulates  and 
foreign  merchants,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  in  number,  and 
constituting  the  foreign  section.  Upon  the  opposite  side  of 
the  bay  is  quite  a large,  unwalled,  native  city  with  a few 
stores  of  the  foreign  merchants.  On  this  side  for  a long  dis- 
tance inland  the  land  is  low,  level,  and  marshy,  producing 
immense  quantities  of  rice,  which  constitutes  the  leading  ar- 
ticle of  export  of  the  place.  Having  climbed  with  a friend 
to  the  summit  of  the  hills,  which  stretch  along  the  southern 
side  of  the  bay,  we  were  rewarded  by  a beautiful  and  exten- 
sive view.  Beyond  the  hills  the  country  was  level  or  gently 
undulating  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  all  in  the  high 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


245 


est  state  of  cultivation.  A stroll  along  the  beach  in  search 
of  shells,  and  a short  time  spent  in  the  little  burying  ground 
to  the  left  and  rear  of  the  town,  comprehended  all  that  we 
found  to  interest  us. 

Our  stay  of  five  days  was  characterized  by  several  inter- 
esting target  and  boat  exercises,  boat  races,  and  drills  on 
shore. 

We  left  Swaton  on  the  10th,  and  continued  our  search  for 
pirates.  After  proceeding  about  thirty  miles  we  again 
dropped  anchor  in  the  Amoa  straits,  and  sent  armed  boats  to 
scour  around  the  numerous  small  islands  and  deep  bights  in 
the  coast.  We  hoped  to  find  some  piratical  junks  lying  con- 
cealed there,  as  it  was  a notorious  haunt  of  theirs  ; but  not  one 
did  we  discover.  Circling  around  the  inner  extremity  of  a 
small  deep  bight  was  a small  but  pretty  unwalled  Chinese 
town  defended  by  two  large  and  quite  formidable  looking 
forts,  upon  two  eminences  near  it,  and  the  only  ones  in  sight. 

We  remained  there  until  the  next  morning,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded to  Tung  Sang,  about  fifty  miles  farther  to  the  north- 
ward. The  harbor  there  is  nearly  circular  in  form,  about 
four  miles  in  diameter,  and  with  the  exception  of  a very  nar- 
row entrance,  completely  land-locked.  Lying  at  anchor  we 
found  the  English  gunboat  Grasshopper,  and  a few  large 
junks.  The  town  is  quite  large,  unwalled,  and  situated  upon 
a barren,  sandy  plain,  upon  the  side  of  the  bay  opposite  to 
the  entrance.  It  owes  its  importance  to  its  numerous  salt- 
works, and  the  inhabitants  are  chiefly  engaged  in  salt  mak- 
ing. This  is  done  by  letting  the  water  from  the  sea  into 
shallow  basins,  when  it  is  evaporated  by  the  heat  of  the  sun. 
The  salt  thus  made  is  of  a very  inferior  quality,  but  forms  the 
principal  article  of  export.  While  lying  there  the  messes 
got  out  of  potatoes,  so  a boat  was  sent  ashore  with  the  cat- 
erers prospecting.  They  returned  with  a load  of  sweet  ones, 
which  they  had  purchased  at  the  rate  of  about  seventeen 
cents  per  bushel.  As  no  others  were  to  be  obtained,  we  laid 


246 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


in  a good  supply  of  these,  and  for  nearly  a month  we  lived 
almost  entirely  upon  them,  having  them  for  breakfast,  din- 
ner and  supper,  until  all  were  sickened  at  the  sight  or  men- 
tion of  sweet  potatoes.  Those  which  are  raised  in  this  part 
of  the  world  are  far  inferior  to  those  produced  in  the  United 
States ; in  fact,  those  I have  tasted  in  other  places  have  been 
almost  invariably  watery,  and  stringy,  and  did  not  possess  the 
same  rich  flavor.  The  sweet  potato  is  the  only  one  cultiva- 
ted or  eaten  by  the  Chinese.  Several  attempts  have  been 
made  to  introduce  the  Irish  potato,  at  least  to  produce  a suf-. 
ficient  quantity  for  the  supply  of  the  European  residents  ; but 
thus  far  all , attempts  have  proved  unsuccessful,  such  is  the 
almost  insurmountable  difficulty  of  establishing  any  new 
thing  in  the  favor  of  the  natives. 

Our  stay  at  Tung  Sang,  like  that  at  Amoa  Straits,  was 
characterized  by  boat  expeditions,  and  target  and  other  ex- 
ercises, and  of  all  these  we  had  a sufficiency  to  satisfy  the 
most  desirous  of  us.  And  yet  the  majority  are  always  ready 
for  any  such  thing,  not  only  on  account  of  the  present  enjoy- 
ment, but  also  because  by  practice,  proficiency  is  attained, 
and  a true  sailor  ever  takes  an  interest  and  delight  in  doing 
anything  in  his  calling  that  will  enable  him  to  excel  another. 
Without  boasting,  andnvith  the  strictest  truth,  I can  say  that 
the  crew  of  the  Wachusett  have  attained  such  a degree  of 
proficiency  in  all  exercises  pertaining  to  a man-of-war  as  to 
be  equaled  by  very  few  vessels  in  these  waters,  and  to  be 
surpassed  by  none,  as  many  trials  have  shown  to  all. 

We  left  Tung  Sang  November  17th,  before  daylight,  and 
about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  we  arrived 
among  the  islands  which  at  the  distance  of  about  eight  miles 
from  the  city  of  Amoy  stretch  across  the  mouth  of  an  ex- 
tensive bay,  formed  by  two  projecting  headlands  of  the  coast. 
The  harbor  within  enclosed  extends  for  several  miles,  being 
open  to  the  sea  on  the  southeast,  and  having  on  the  south 
the  lofty  hill  of  Lam-tai-too,  situated  on  the  mainland  and 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


247 


surmounted  by  a conspicuous  pagoda.  On  the  southwest 
lies  an  island  with  another  conspicuous  pagoda  at  the  en- 
trance of  a river  leading  up  to  Chang-chew.  On  the  east  at 
a greater  distance  lies  the  island  of  Kinmun  or  Quemoy. 
The  island  of  Amoy  itself  fills  up  the  north  and  northwest 
of  this  circular  range  of  hills,  which  rival  each  other  in  the 
bold  grandeur  of  their  towering  cliffs,  and  the  wild  sterility 
of  their  scenery.  Steaming  along  the  southern  shore  of  the 
island,  which  is  here  lined  with  an  extensive  range  of  batter- 
ies— now  decaying  and  deserted,  we  at  length  came  to  an- 
chor in  the  lesser  harbor,  between  the  city  and  the  opposite 
island  of  Kulang-su,  which  lies  about  half  a mile  distant 
from  Amoy.  The  harbor  at  Amoy  is  considered  one  of  the 
best  on  the  coast,  and  the  scenery  surrounding  it,  though 
quite  barren,  is  varied  and  interesting.  A day  or  two  after 
our  arrival,  accompanied  by  a friend,  I went  ashore  to  see 
what  there  might  be  of  interest.  We  landed  on  the  Amoy 
side  just  below  the  city,  and  ascending  the  towering  range  of 
cliffs  near  by,  and  the  huge  rock  which  crowns  the  summit, 
we  were  rewarded  by  a complete  and  splendid  view  of  the 
city  and  harbors,  and  the  country  for  many  miles  around. 

The  island  of  Amoy,  about  forty  miles  in  circumference, 
is,  together  with  several  lesser  isles5  situated  within  the  be- 
fore mentioned  head-lands  on  the  coast.  Between  these 
islands  and  the  mainland  is  the  harbor — or  harbors  rather  ; 
for  it  is  divided  into  two  portions  called  the  inner  and  the 
outer  harbors ; the  southern  extremity  of  Kulang-su  being 
the  dividing  point.  The  city  of  Amoy  or  Hiamun,  (i.  e.,  the 
gate  or  harbor  of  Hia)  is  situated  on  the  southwestern  side  of 
the  island  of  Amoy,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dragon  river.  There 
is  an  outer  and  inner  city,  as  one  approaches  it  from  the  sea, 
or  more  properly  a citadel  and  city,  divided  by  a ridge  of 
high,  rocky  hills,  with  an  old  wall  extending  along  the  top. 
A paved  road,  which  we  saw  for  the  first  time  standing  upon 
this  rock  on  the  cliffs,  connects  the  two.  The  entire  circuit 


248 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


of  the  city  and  suburbs  is  upwards  of  eight  miles,  and  con- 
tains an  estimated  population  of  three  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants, while  that  of  the  island  is  estimated  at  one  hun- 
dred thousand  more.  Amoy  is  further  divided  by  the  inner 
harbor,  which  extends  in  front  and  joins  a large  estuary  run- 
ning up  some  distance  into  the  island,  and  skirting  the  north- 
ern side  of  the  city.  Thus  it,  in  fact,  lies  upon  a tongue  of 
land,  having  only  one-third  of  its  circuit  defended  by  walls, 
and  these  overlooked  by  the  hills  at  its  rear.  The  island  of 
Amoy  is  said  to  contain  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  villages 
and  hamlets,  the  most  of  which  could  be  seen  from  our  stand- 
point. Like  a stupendous  citadel  of  natural  formation,  a 
range  of  towering  cliffs  extends  over  the  whole,  leaving,  for 
the  work  of  tillage,  portions  of  low,  undulating  ground  be- 
tween their  base  and  the  sea,  while  upon  the  top  of  this 
range  there  are  a few  miles  of  highly  cultivated  land. 

The  western  sideof  the  harbor,  here  from  six  to  seven  hun- 
dred yards  wide,  is  occupied  by  the  island  of  Kulang-su, 
while  away  to  the  eastward  is  the  island  of  Quemoy  or  Ken- 
mun  (i.  e.,  Golden  Harbor),  presenting  a striking  contrast  in 
the  low,  rice  grounds  on  its  southwestern  side  to  the  high 
land  of  Amoy. 

Now  to  turn  to  our  ramble,  and  what  we  saw  and  learned. 
Descending  from  our  perch  on  the  rock,  we  climbed  the 
hills  in  the  rear  of  the  town.  These  have  been  its  bury- 
ing ground  for  centuries,  and  are  entirely  covered  with  graves ; 
probably  many  millions  have  been  buried  there.  In  a 
previous  letter  I made  mention  of  the  graves  of  the  man- 
darins, and  the  higher  order  of  the  Chinese.  Those  of  the 
lower  order  are  barely  two  feet  deep,  the  sides  and  bottom 
being  lined  with  a kind  of  cement.  After  the  coffin  has 
been  placed  in  position,  the  grave  filled  up,  and  a convex 
mound  raised  over  it,  the  top  is  covered  over  with  the  cement 
which  in  a short  time  hardens,  forming  a rock-like  case. 
This  effectually  protects  the  body  from  the  ravages  of  dogs, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


249 


which  are  numerous  and  ravenous  in  China,  and  makes  the 
hill  appear  at  a distance,  as  if  it  were  thickly  studded  with 
large  rocks.  We  noticed  several  mandarin  sepulchers,  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  finely  ornamented  with  inscriptions 
and  epitaphs.  The  Chinese  seldom  select  as  burial  places 
for  their  dead,  situations  capable  of  agricultural  use  or  im-- 
provement,  but  inter  their  dead  on  the  hill  side  or  under  the 
craggy  precipice  where  little  else  could  be  made  of  the  soil. 
In  this  manner  are  they  forced  in  every  way  to  economize 
the  soil. 

Decending  into  the  city  of  Amoy  at  its  rear,  we  found 
ourselves  in  a perfect  maze  of  narrow,  filthy  streets,  lined 
for  the  most  part  with  houses  of  the  poorest  description. 
Upon  an  eminence  commonly  called  “ White  Stag  Hill,”  near 
the  city,  is  a collection  of  temples,  the  only  thing  worthy  of 
note  that  we  saw.  They  consist  of  a cluster  of  buildings, 
perched  upon  overhanging  rocks,  and  both  in  their  situation 
and  surroundings  are  exceedingly  romantic  and  picturesque. 

Along  the  water’s  edge,  in  front  of  the  city,  are  a few 
European  buildings,  mostly  stores  and  ship-chandleries.  The 
residences  of  the  Europeans  are  upon  the  Kulang-su  side  of 
the  bay,  which  we  reached  after  a few  minutes  sail.  We 
landed  upon  a long  stone  causeway,  which  extends  out  into 
the  harbor,  and  at  which  vessels  load  and  unload.  Ascend- 
ing a succession  of  eminences,  to  a point  where  we  could 
have  a good  view  of  the  island,  we  found  it  to  be  about  a 
mile  in  length,  and  the  same  in  width  in  its  widest  part ; we 
saw  that,  although  partaking  of  the  same  general  ruggedness 
of  aspect  as  the  main  land,  it  possessed  a picturesque  and 
romantic  beauty  of  scenery  peculiarly  its  own,  in  the  glens 
and  deep,  narrow  ravines  overhung  with  masses  of  rock  of 
every  imaginable  form  and  appearance.  In  some  parts  little 
groves  of  banian  trees  encircfe  a few  houses,  and  everywhere 
are  to  be  seen  plats  of  grain  or  vegetables.  The  northern 
side  of  the  island  is  by  far  the  most  beautiful  and  picturesque, 
12 


250 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


and  of  so  high  a degree  of  cultivation  and  beauty  as  to  call 
forth  the  following  description  : “ A series  of  gardens  with 

their  rich  foliage  rises  gradually  up  the  slope  of  a little  hill, 
till  they  meet  the  odd  jumble  of  chasms  and  boulder-stones, 
piled  aloft  or  loosely  scattered  around.”  Scattered  over  the 
entire  island  are  some  thirty-five  residences  situated  in  beau 
tiful  gardens  and  fairly  embowered  in  trees.  Occupying  a 
prominent  site  is  the  neat  little  chapel  of  the  North  Dutch 
Church. 

There  are  upwards  of  five  hundred  European  residents  at 
Amoy,  for  the  most  part  merchants  and  their  families. 

Among  the  interesting  incidents  of  our  stay  were  the 
usual  number  of  boat-races  and  exercises,  the  visit  of  the 
Tau  Tai,  and  upon  Sunday  the  holding  of  service  on  board 
the  ship  by  one  of  the  missionaries,  whose  field  is  at  Amoy. 
The  majority  of  the  crew  attended,  influenced  in  no  small 
degree  probably  by  the  presence  of  the  two  pretty  daughters 
of  the  missionary.  To  work  good  among  sailors,  I am  in- 
clined to  believe  that  the  missionary  would  find  it  advanta- 
geous to  have  some  pretty  and  attractive  female  to  accom- 
pany him,  in  order  to  induce  them  to  listen  to  him,  and  to  fix 
their  attention.  Then  he  might  have  better  hopes  of  being 
successful  in  his  endeavors. 

The  services  were  conducted  after  the  manner  of  the 
North  Dutch  Church,  and  all  seemed  to  be  much  interested, 
especially  in  the  singing,  in  which  the  voices  of  the  ladies 
made  a great  improvement. 

We  left  Amoy  Wednesday,  November  28th,  arriving  here 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day,  after  a very  rough  pas- 
sage. Owing  to  a severe  storm  a day  or  two  previous,  the 
sea  was  very  rough,  and  we  rolled  and  pitched  about  so  fear- 
fully as  to  make  many  an  old  salt  feel  a little  sea  sick.  We 
who  were  not  sick  were  rejoiced  at  the  roughness  of  the  sea, 
for  that  precluded  all  idea  of  exercising,  and  we  enjoyed  a 
rest  for  two  days. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


2ol 


The  day  of  our  arrival  here,  being  the  last  Thursday  in 
November,  we  decided  was  Thanksgiving  day  at  home,  and 
as  such,  those  who  were  so  disposed,  celebrated  it.  I made 
an  excellent  Thanksgiving  dinner  upon  two  papers  that  day 
received  from  home,  and  a No.  1 repast  gotten  up  to  order 
at  the  hotel  ashore,  for  myself  and  three  or  four  friends.  It 
would  be  hard  to  tell  which  part  I enjoyed  the  most ; but 
upon  the  whole,  I think  that  it  was  the  former,  by  as  much 
as  intellectual  excels  mere  sensual  enjoyments.  You  at  home 
have  no  conception  of  the  amount  of  pleasure  which  a home 
newspaper,  even  although  it  may  be  two  or  three  months  old, 
gives  to  a crew.  As  a choice  treasure  it  is  carefully  pre- 
served, and  passed  from  one  to  another  until  all  have  thor- 
oughly read  it.  If  our  friends  at  home  had  any  idea  how 
highly  an  occasional  file  of  newspapers  is  valued,  I am  sure 
that  more  would  be  sent  to  those  far  away.  Strikingly  true  in 
their  case  are  the  words  of  the  wise  man,  “ Like  waters  to 
a thirsty  soul,  so  is  news  from  a far  country.” 

Since  we  have  been  here,  the  crew  have  been  at  work 
“ setting  up  rigging,”  and  doing  other  work  aloft.  The  chief 
item  of  interest  has  been  the  losing  of  Dr.  Page,  who  came 
to  take  Dr.  King’s  place,  and  to  whom  one  and  all  had  be- 
come endeared.  Nor  were  we  less  dear  to  him  as  was 
clearly  shown  in  his  affecting  leave-taking.  He  took  one 
and  all  by  the  hand,  and  bade  them  “ good  bye,”  while  his 
face  was  wet  with  tears,  and  sobs  almost  choked  his  utterance. 
Few  dry  eyes  were  seen  among  all  on  board.  Never  was 
an  officer  more  beloved  by  a crew,  or  a crew  more  saddened 
by  the  loss  of  an  officer.  Once  only  have  I seen  as  much 
feeling  manifested,  and  that  was  at  the  time  of  the  late  Cap- 
tain Townsend’s  death.  The  petty  officers  asked  the  Cap- 
tain if  it  was  not  possible  to  keep  him,  and  when  told  that  it 
was  not,  begged  permission  to  “ cheer  ship  ” for  him.  But 
this  was  also  denied  them,  as  being  contrary  to  the  “ Rules 
and  Regulations  for  the  better  government  of  the  Navy.” 


252 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


How  much  better  and  pleasanter  it  is  for  officers  thus  to  have 
the  best  regards  of  the  crew.  Never  did  I hear  of  an  in- 
stance where  this  was  the  case  but  there  was  joined  to  it  the 
greatest  respect  for  their  authority.  It  perhaps  may  answer 
with  other  nationalities,  but  fear  alone  is  not  the  wisest  nor 
best  mode  of  governing  intelligent  American  seamen. 

Yesterday  a survey  was  held  upon  the  Wachusett,  and 
the  board  of  Survey  has  reported  that  she  needs  to  go  into 
dock  for  repairs,  so  the  admiral  has  ordered  us  up  to  Wham- 
poa to-morrow  for  that  purpose. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


253 


LETTER  XX Y I . 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hong  Kong,  China,) 
December  29th,  1866.  j 

My  Dear  R. : 

As  we  were  ordered  we  went  up  to  Whampoa  the  next 
morning,  but  did  not  go  into  dock  for  four  days  afterward, 
there  being  a vessel  in  there  which  had  not  finished  making  re- 
pairs. We  were  in  dock  about  two  weeks,  and  while  there 
the  vessel  was  thoroughly  caulked  both  inside  and  out,  new 
copper  put  on  where  it  was  needed,  the  decks  were  repaired, 
and  a new  yard  and  topmast  made.  The  ship  was  most 
thoroughly  overhauled,  and  from  this  many  infer  that  we  will 
remain  on  the  station  a much  longer  time,  notwithstanding 
the  many  “ well  authenticated  ” reports  that  we  are  soon  to 
start  for  home.  It  does  not  seem  to  me  probable  that  the  re- 
pairs would  have  been  so  extensive  if  we  were  soon  to  be 
“ homeward  bound.” 

For  a few  days  the  ship  was  in  the  greatest  filth  and  con- 
fusion imaginable.  One  hundred  Chinese  caulkers  continu- 
ally hammering,  made  such  a noise  that  one  could  neither 
read,  sleep,  eat,  or  even  think  comfortably ; and  for  five  whole 
days,  the  decks  saw  neither  water  nor  sand,  nor  holy-stone, 
but  everywhere  dirt  reigned  supreme.  After  the  caulking 
was  all  finished,  and  the  signal  was  given,  it  was  amusing  to 
see  the  angry  and  furious  onslaught  made  by  the  crew  with 
their  accustomed  weapons  upon  King  Dirt.  After  a short 
but  vigorous  conflict,  he  was  completely  vanquished,  and  real- 
ly it  did  seem  good  to  see  the  decks  white  and  the  ship  clean 
once  more.  So  long  as  I am  not  compelled  to  take  part  I 
will  never  again  complain  of  the  use  of  holy-stones  and 


254 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


sand  if  it  does  not  exceed  three  times  a day ; all  feel  so  un- 
comfortable if  a day  passes  without  having  the  ship  cleaned. 
The  repairs  were  all  made1  by  the  Chinese  dock-laborers, 
and  all  hough  they  did  their  work  better  than  was  expected 
the  same  would  have  been  performed  by  an  equal  number  of 
European  laborers  in  one-third  of  the  time  that  it  took  them. 

To  add  to  the  discomfort  of  being  in  dock,  the  crew  were 
allowed  to  go  ashore  at  pleasure,  and  with  their  usual  pro- 
pensity, the  first  place  sought  was  where  they  could  obtain 
liquor.  As  a consequence,  the  greater  number  would  almost 
invariably  return  to  the  ship  intoxicated,  and  there  would 
follow  the  usual  amount  of  shouting  and  fighting.  A num- 
ber paid  dearly  for  some  of  their  antics  while  in  this  condi- 
tion, a summary  court  martial  adjudging  to  each  one  the  loss 
of  three  months’  pay,  thirty  days  solitary  confinement  on 
bread  and  water,  and  a sharp,  cutting  reprimand  by  the  Cap- 
tain before  the  whole  crew  assembled  at  muster.  In  this  in- 
stance fear  seemed  to  operate  well  in  controling  them,  for 
after  a few  had  been  punished  the  remainder  were  more 
thoughtful  and  prudent. 

Sadder  than  that  of  all  the  others,  was  the  case  of  one  of 
the  firemen,  who,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  narrow  foot 
bridge  which  spans  the  creek  back  of  New  Town,  while  in- 
toxicated, fell  into  the  water  and  was  drowned.  He  was  not 
found  until  the  following  day,  when  his  funeral  took  place  and 
he  was  buried  in  a lovely  spot  near  the  summit  of  a small 
hill  on  Danes  Island.  He  was  a quiet,  good  natured  fellow, 
well  liked  by  all  the  crew,  and  all  felt  saddened  by  his 
death. 

Although  at  times  quite  troublesome,  yet  on  the  whole  the 
numerous  curiosity  dealers  that  thronged  the  wharves  formed 
a pleasant  feature  of  our  stay  in  the  dock. 

Articles  of  every  description  that  they  thought  could  pos- 
sibly attract  were  brought,  from  the  richest  silks  and  most 
costly  boxes,  to  the  small,  cheap  ivory  buttons ; and,  in  the 


HAMPOA,  LHINA. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


255 


lively  competition  which  was  occasioned,  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity was  afforded  for  making  purchases.  Of  this  opportu- 
nity all  availed  themselves,  and  purchases  were  made  amount- 
ing, in  the  case  of  some  who  had  an  abundance  of  the  '‘rhino,” 
to  as  much  as  fifty  dollars. 

While  we  were  lying  in  dock  an  opportunity  was  afforded 
me  of  witnessing  the  summary  punishment  of  crime  by  the 
Chinese,  the  offense  in  this  case  being  that  of  stealing.  It  re- 
quired the  closest  attention,  and  most  careful  surveillance  of  all 
to  prevent  the  Chinese  from  purloining  the  sheets  of  copper 
with  which  they  were  repairing  the  vessel,  and  despite  our 
vigilance,  one  day  four  of  the  workmen  with  a sheet  of  cop- 
per each,  passed  the  guard  and  were  some  distance  away  from 
the  ship  before  they  were  suspected  of  thieving.  Pursuit 
was  immediately  made,  all  of  the  copper  recovered,  and  two 
of  the  thieves  captured.  These  were  taken  before  the  Tau 
Tai  of  the  district,  who,  upon  hearing  the  facts  of  the  case, 
immediately  ordered  them  to  be  beheaded,  and  in  less  than 
ten  minutes  his  command  was  obeyed.  The  condemned 
were  let  out  into  a court  near  the  mandarin’s  house  and  there 
made  to  stand  with  the  body  inclined  forward.  Every  man- 
darin of  the  rank  of  Tau  Tai  has  an  executioner  in  his  suite, 
and  this  personage  was  then  summoned  and  told  to  do  his 
duty.  The  instrument  which  he  used  was  a large,  broad 
sword,  which  all  hough  it  appeared  heavy  and  clumsy,  was  as 
bright  and  keen  as  any  razor.  While  the  ea^e  with  which  it 
was  wielded,  completely  severing  the  head  from  the  trunk, 
showed  that  the  executioner  was  not  unaccustomed  to  the 
duty.  The  bodies  were  removed,  the  heads  placed  upon 
stakes,  and  a placard  posted  up  near  by  stating  the  circum- 
stances of  the  execution  as  a warning  to  all  offenders. 

The  crime  of  stealing  is  almost  always  thus  summarily 
dealt  with,  and  in  Chinese  law,  ranks  as  the  highest  offense 
that  can  be  committed.  And  this  is  necessary,  for  by  less 
strict  measures,  where  there  is  such  a dense  population,  ai\d 


256 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


where  the  mass  are  ignorant  of  those  fundamental  Christian 
principles  of  right  and  wrong,  life  and  property  would  not  be 
safe.  It  is  truly  wonderful  how  the  Chinese,  ignorant  as 
they  are  of  political  economy,  and  destitute  as  they  are  of  a 
knowledge  of  Christian  ethics,  manage  'to  keep  such  a mass 
of  people  in  order,  and  preserve  life  and  property  safe  for  a 
moment.  Probably  the  secret  of  their  success  is  in  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  patriarchal  system  of  government  founded  on 
the  basis  of  filial  obedience.  The  first  principle  in  their 
moral  code  is  the  duty  of  children  to  their  parents  in  all 
things,  and  the  right  of  parents  to  dispose  of  their  children. 
An  idea  of  almost  divine  superiority  of  the  parent  over  the 
child  is  cherished,  and  every  disobedience  of,  or  disrespect  to 
parental  authority  is  punished  with  the  utmost  rigor.  No 
circumstances  can  arise  in  which  a child  is  absolved  from 
unqualified  and  the  most  implicit  obedience  to  the  parent. 

This  same  principle  forms  the  basis  of  their  political  code. 
The  Emperor  is  considered  as  their  parent,  and  to  strengthen 
this  assumption,  the  idea  of  divine  right  is  superadded. 
Heaven  and  earth  are  considered  the  parents  of  all  mankind, 
and  the  Emperor,  as  the  Son  of  Heaven,  is  the  next  in  au- 
thority and  reverenced  accordingly.  Both  parents  and  rulers 
are  far  exalted  above  children  and  subjects,  and  receive  not 
only  homage,  but  worship. 

The  parental  prerogative  has  been  the  foundation  of  Chinese 
politics  from  the  earliest  antiquity,  and  is  the  source  of  the 
good  order  and  peace  which  exist  throughout  the  vast  empire. 
For  a heathen  country,  it  may  well  challenge  admiration  for 
the  wisdom  of  a legislative  principle,  which  thus  effectually 
unites  and  tranquilizes  so  great  a nation. 

The  emperor’s  ministers  are  by  him  called  his  “hands  and 
feet,”  “ his  ears  and  eyes,”  and  are  responsible  to  him  for  the 
exercise  of  the  authority  delegated  to  them,  with  their  for- 
tunes, and  their  lives.  Any  one  of  them,  however  high  he 
may  be  in  authority,  can  be  submitted  to  the  lowest  indignity 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


257 


and  made  to  undergo  any  punishment  that  a judgment  or 
whim  of  the  Emperor  may  determine  upon. 

The  prime  ministers  of  state  are  called  the  “ inner  cham- 
ber,” or  “ cabinet,”  and  are  four  in  number — two  Tartars  and 
two  Chinese.  This  same  policy  may  be  observed  in  all  ap- 
pointments of  offices — of  setting  the  two  races  to  watch  each 
other. 

Under  this  cabinet  are  the  six  tribunals,  which  take  cog- 
nizance of  their  several  departments  and  report  to  the  em- 
peror for  his  decision  and  approval.  The  first  is  the  tribunal 
of  civil  office,  has  a survey  over  the  conduct  of  all  magis- 
4 trates,  recommends  persons  to  fill  vacancies,  and  suggests  the 
propriety  of  promoting  or  degrading  individuals  according  to 
their  respective  merits. 

The  second  tribunal  is  that  of  revenue ; its  members  take 
cognizance  of  the  amount  of  the  population,  the  collection  of 
taxes,  the  coining  of  money,  the  expenditure,  the  income,  the 
payment  of  the  various  officers,  and  the  maintenance  of  the 
state  sacrifices. 

The  third  tribunal  is  that  of  rites,  having  charge  of  all 
religious  and  state  ceremonies,  court  etiquette,  and  astrologi- 
cal predictions  ; the  introduction  and  arrangement  of  nobles 
at  the  levees,  and  the  etiquette  there  to  be  observed  and  the 
clothes  each  one  is  to  wear.  The  imperial  astronomers  who 
prognosticate  terrestrial  affairs,  calculate  celestial  phenomena, 
and  predict  lucky  and  unlucky  days,  come  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  board  of  rites. 

The  fourth  tribunal  is  that  of  war,  which  takes  the  super- 
intendence of  the  army,  navy,  and  ordinance,  appoints  the 
number  of  troops  assigned  to  each  province,  and  attends  to 
the  management  of  all  the  defenses  of  the  country. 

Next  comes  the  tribunal  of  punishments,  which  appoints 
and  removes  judges,  takes  cognizance  of  all  judicial  pro- 
ceedings, and  sees  to  the  execution  of  the  laws. 

The  last  tribunal  is  that  of  works,  to  which  is  committed 

i 2* 


258 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  care  of  public  buildings  and  construction  of  roads  and 
canals.  In  addition  to  these  tribunals  there  are  various  other 
officers;  such  as  the  Colonial  Board  or  foreign  Officer,  the 
public  censorate,  which  is  allowed  to  reprove  the  emperor  or 
any  of  his  officers  without  being  liable  to  punishment,  and  the 
members  of  the  national  college  at  Pekin,  to  whom  all  mat- 
ters with  respect  to  literature,  and  many  with  regard  to  poli- 
tics are  referred,  while  the  principal  officers  of  state  are 
chosen  from  among  them. 

The  laws  of  China  are  numerous,  minute,  and  circum- 
stantial, and  in  speaking  of  them,  the  Edinburgh  Review 
says,  “ There  is  nothing  here  of  the  monstrous  verbiage  of 
most  other  Asiatic  productions ; but  a clear,  concise,  and  dis- 
tinct series  of  enactments,  savoring  throughout  of  practical 
judgment  and  European  good  sense  ; and  if  not  always  con- 
formable to  our  improved  ideas  of  expediency  in  this  country, 
in  general  approaching  more  closely  to  them  than  the  codes 
of  most  other  nations.” 

Perhaps  you  may  think  my  rather  lengthy  dissertation 
upon  the  Chinese  political  code,  somewhat  dry  and  uninter- 
esting, but  I thought  it  would  interest  you  to  know  something 
concerning  their  principle  of  government,  and  have  made  it  as 
brief  as  possible.  Now  we  will  turn  to  a ramble  which  I 
had  with  a friend  about  Whampoa  and  surroundings. 

We  took  passage  for  shore  in  the  bum  boat,  and  while  on 
our  way,  Old  Sam’s  son  invited  us  into  the  small  room  near 
the  stern,  which  he  calls  his  cabin.  Immediately  upon  en- 
tering, he  proffered  us  some  mandarin  wine,  which  we  accept- 
ed. We  found  it  to  be  superior  to  any  of  the  many  liquors 
manufactured  from  rice  which  we  had  before  tasted,  of  a 
pleasant,  spicy  flavor,  and,  judging  by  its  thick  oily  appear- 
ance, it  must  have  been  very  old.  He  said  that  it  was,  and 
that  it  was  very  valuable,  a pint  of  it  costing  upwards  of 
eleven  dollars.  After  partaking  of  the  wine,  he  played  for 
us  upon  his  guitar,  a commingling  of  weird  and  wild,  yet 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


259 


strangely  sweet  sounds,  which  charmed  us  both.  Hitherto, 
all  the  Chinese  music  which  we  had  heard  had  been  so  char- 
acterized by  an  entirely  unmusical  noise,  or  frightful  shrieks, 
as  to  disgust  rather  than  please  us,  and  we  had  concluded 
that  the  Chinese  were  an  entirely  unmusical  people ; but 
Young  Sam’s  music  excited  both  our  wonder  and  admira- 
tion. 

We  landed  at  New  Town,  and  after  an  hour’s  ramble  over 
it,  decided  upon  the  following  description  : It  is  situated  at 

the  lower  end  of  Whampoa  Island,  and  as  the  name  implies, 
is  of  recent  construction — having  been  built  since  the  open- 
ing of  the  river  to  foreign  trade.  Here  reside  many  Chinese 
merchants,  and  the  most  of  the  Europeans  resident  at  Wham- 
poa. The  foreign  section  is  governed  by  a marshal  under 
the  direction  of  the  United  States  Consul  at  Canton. 

Our  intention  before  we  went  ashore  was  to  take  a stroll  back 
into  the  country,  rather  than  to  stay  about  the  town ; so,  after 
this  hour’s  look  at  it,  we  set  out,  armed  with  sundry  refresh- 
ments, and  with  pockets  full  of  cash.  Just  back  of  the  town 
we  came  to  the  foot  bridge  which  spans  the  creek  where  the 
fireman  was  drowned.  The  bridge  is  a rickety  concern,  and 
bad  enough  to  cross  when  sober.  After  crossing,  and  pass- 
ing a few  scattered  houses,  we  found  ourselves  fairly  launched 
into  the  country. 

How  strangely  good  and  refreshing  it  seemed  to  be  for  a 
time  away  from  noise  and  tumult,  with  some  congenial  spirit, 
in  the  quiet  of  the  country!  Such  a beautiful,  delightful 
walk  as  we  had  ! Oh,  I would  that  I had  the  graphic  pen 
of  some  to  describe  it ! Our  walk  for  a time  was  upon  a wall 
or  bank,  between  a branch  of  the  Canton  river  upon  our 
right,  and  a series  of  paddy  fields  upon  our  left.  On  the 
river  could  be  seen  the  many  interesting  phases  of  boat-life, 
of  which  I have  told  you  in  a previous  letter ; and  also,  I 
have  spoken  of  the  rice  fields,  but  I will  add  a few  words 
here.  These  are  laid  out  in  from  one  to  ten  acres  each  ; on 


260 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


every  side  is  a ditch  the  dirt  from  which  forms  the  raised 
wall  or  bank.  Nearly  every  field  has  its  threshing  floor, 
which  is  simply  a circular  plot  beaten  hard.  They  have  just 
finished  harvesting  one  crop  of  rice,  and  are  preparing  the 
ground  for  another.  Now  to  turn  to  the  walk  itself,  some 
five  or  six  feet  high — it  varies  in  width  from  six  to  fifty  feet, 
and  is  for  the  most  part  covered  with  a luxuriant  growth  of 
vegetation — the  sides  being  lined  with  beautiful  shrubbery, 
and  fine  shade  trees.  Along  this  we  continued  our  walk  for 
two  miles,  until  we  were  brought  to  a halt  by  a wide,  deep, 
canal  filled  with  water.  To  cross  this  we  followed  its  wind- 
ings for  half  a mile  or  more,  when  we  found  a regular  cross- 
ing, with  an  old  sampan  for  a ferry-boat.  We  went  on  board 
of  this  and  were  ferried  over,  for  which  the  fare  was  one 
cash  each.  After  ascending  the  opposite  bank,  we  entered 
a charming  grove  of  fine  old  teaks,  and  passing  through  it 
over  a wide  paved  walk,  we  found  a Joss  tower  situated  on 
an  artificial  island,  surrounded  by  a wide,  deep  moat,  filled 
with  water,  and  spanned  by  an  arched,  stone  bridge. 

Leaving  this  for  a subsequent  visit,  we  pushed  on  towards 
our  destination — the  old  pagoda  near  the  center  of  the  island, 
and  still  some  three  or  four  miles  distant.  Our  path  after 
leaving  the  Joss  tower  was  very  winding  and  circuitous,  in 
order  to  keep  upon  the  banks  between  the  soft,  muddy  paddy 
fields.  The  shade  trees  now  changed,  and  were  for  the  most 
part  banana  trees,  which  I,  for  the  first  time  closely  examined. 
After  attaining  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  feet,  they  begin 
to  put  forth  blossoms.  These  resemble  an  ear  of  green  corn  in 
form,  and  are  of  a reddish  hue.  As  they  grow  the  outer 
circlet  of  husks  turns  back,  at  the  roots  of  which  the  young 
bananas  are  seen  ; and  thus  they  continue,  circlet  after  cir- 
clet, until  sometimes  the  bunch  attains  four  feet  in  length.  I 
noticed  some  bunches  where  there  were  blossoms  at  the  tip 
and  ripe  bananas  near  the  butt. 

When  we  had  almost  reached  our  destination,  and  were 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


261 


congratulating  ourselves  upon  the  rest  we  were  then  to  have, 
suddenly  our  path  turned  nearly  about,  and  it  took  us  an  hour’s 
quick  walk  to  reach  the  old  decayed  village  near  it.  The 
only  redeeming  feature  of  this  place  was  the  wide,  paved, 
and  beautifully  shaded  walk  approaching  the  bridge  which 
spans  the  creek  at  the  commencement. 

After  passing  through  the  town  we  ascended  the  eminence 
upon  which  the  pagoda  stood,  and  where  arriving,  we  seated 
ourselves  to  rest,  and  enjoy  the  magnificent  and  enchanting 
view.  ,In  itself,  the  eminence  is  a beautiful,  almost  perfect 
oval,  motind,  the  only  one  on  the  island,  rising  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  being  upwards  of 
half  a mile  in  circuit.  It  is  covered  with  beautiful  shrub- 
bery, prominent  in  which  are  many  rose-bushes,  covered 
with  variously  tinted  flowers.  Scattered  around  are  several 
mandarin  sepulchres.  Near  the  center  of  the  eminence 
stands  the  pagoda,  an  octagonal  brick  structure,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  divided  into  nine  stories. 
The  top  is  conical  in  form,  and  surmounted  by  a cross.  On 
the  upper  projecting  roofs  are  growing  several  shrubs,  quite 
trees,  in  fact.  How  they  came  there,  I cannot  say,  but  sup- 
pose that  the  seed  was  carried  thither  either  by  the  wind  or 
by  birds,  and  in  the  decaying  wood-work  found  a soil  in  which 
to  take  root  and  grow. 

Leaving  the  eminence  and  turning  to  that  beyond,  before 
us  and  behind  is  a branch  of  the  Canton  river  winding  its 
way  and  covered  with  boats  of  every  size  and  description. 
To  the  right  Canton  is  dimly  seen,  while  on  the  left  is  Old 
Whampoa,  and  all  around  both  far  and  near,  a beautiful 
intermingling  of  hill  and  dale,  mountain  and  plain,  bayou, 
river,  and  creek  ; so  enchanting  us  that  we  stood  for  a long 
time  admiring  it,  drinking  in  its  rare  beauties,  forgetful  x)f 
how  short  was  our  time  before  sundown.  ^But  nearer  than 
all,  right  before  us  is  the  pagoda  resting  upon  a stone  base 
four  feet  high,  supported  by  sixteen  stone  images.  To  the 


262 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


pagoda  there  are  two  entrances,  one  on  the  northern  and  the 
other  on  the  southern  side. 

In  entering  I was  surprised  to  find  that  the  walls  were  of 
such  enormous  thickness,  being  no  less  than  ten  feet.  At 
length  we  reach  the  inside  and  find  nothing  so  very  wonder- 
ful, after  all,  to  be  seen,  merely  a hollow  shaft  about  twelve 
feet  across  at  the  bottom  and  tapering  towards  the  top.  The 
whole  is  entirely  destitute  of  ornament.  Upon  two  sides  of 
each  story  are  openings,  and  upon  the  others  are  niches,  where 
once  idols  were  doubtless  placed.  The  walls  are  covered 
with  the  autographs  of  those  that  have  visited  it ; one  I saw 
from  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  1842,  but  couldn’t  make  out  the  per- 
son’s name.  Following  the  example  of  our  predecessors,  we 
placed  our  autographs  upon  the  wall,  and  then  with  the  sun 
an  hour  high,  set  out  to  return. 

In  returning,  we  took  a different  and  more  direct  route, 
which  led  towards  Old  Whampoa,  and  after  passing  through 
a “City  of  the  Dead”  upon  a knoll  near  the  walls,  we  came  to 
the  gates  of  the  city.  In  our  walk  through  the  town  we 
found  the  streets  to  be  unusually  wide,  and  what  is  still  more 
unusual,  that  shade-trees  by  the  sides  of  the  streets  and  pretty 
squares  and  ponds,  were  numerous.  By  the  Chinese  them- 
selves it  is  regarded  as  one  of  their  most  pleasant  and  beau- 
tiful cities.  In  these  a European  seemed  to  be  quite  a 
curiosity,  judging  by  the  immense  crowds  that  everywhere 
followed  us,  staring  with  open  mouth  and  eyes ; and  not  a 
single  Chinaman  did  we  meet  that  could  speak  a word  of 
English.  We  wandered  about  there  some  time  in  the  vain 
endeavor  to  find  any  one  to  show  us  our  way,  until  at  last  a 
bright  eyed  little  boy,  dressed  as  one  of  the  higher  order  of 
Chinese,  seeing  our  difficulty,  came  up  to  us,  and  by  signs 
signified  his  ability  and  willingness  to  conduct  us  out  of  the 
city  ; this  he  did,  and  refusing  the  offered  reward,  politely 
chin  chined  us  off. 

On  our  way  to  New  Town  we  saw  a Chinaman  engaged  in 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


263 


ploughing.  For  a team  he  had  a buffalo  ox ; the  harness  was 
not  unlike  a horse  harness,  and  was  attached  by  a whiffle  to  an 
English-like  plough,  not  differing  materially,  except  in  having 
but  one  handle.  Leaving  him,  without  further  adventure,  or 
meeting  with  anything  of  more  than  ordinary  interest,  we 
reached  the  ship  a few  minutes  after  sundown,  both  of  us 
considering  that  it  had  been  one  of  the  most  interesting  and 
pleasant  days  we  had  spent  in  China. 

Another  ramble  a few  days  later  presented  us  with  much 
that  was  new  and  interesting.  At  a native  apothecary’s  shop 
we  saw  a person  grinding  spices  and  other  articles — learning 
the  “ rudiments  ” I suppose.  The  article  to  be  ground  was 
placed  in  a long,  narrow,  iron  tray,  and  then  a roller,  fixed 
upon  an  axle-tree  and  exactly  fitting  the  tray,  was  moved 
backwards  and  forwards  upon  the  article — the  Chinaman 
sitting  down,  and  furnishing  the  motive  power  with  his  feet. 

Near  by  was  another  person  engaged  in  grinding  wheat. 
The  grain  was  placed  in  a hopper,  and  from  it  passed  be- 
tween two  small  mill-stones,  which  were  turned  by  hand. 
In  fact,  all  labor  in  China  is  performed  without  any  aid  from 
steam  or  water  power,  and  all  instruments  employed  are  of 
the  most  primitive  pattern. 

Farther  on  we  were  attracted  by  a Chinese  printer’s  estab- 
lishment, and  I think  that  some  account  of  their  mode  of 
printing  might  be  of  interest  to  you. 

The  art  of  printing  was  known  to  the  Chinese  more  than 
nine  hundred  years  ago;  for,  by  reference  to  Chinese  history, 
it  appears  that,  in  A.  D.  926,  the  ruler  of  Tang  ordered  the 
nine  classics  to  be  printed  and  sold  to  the  people.  In  the  time 
of  Confucius,  books  were  formed  of  slips  of  bamboo,  upon 
which  they  wrote  with  the  point  of  a style ; in  A.  D.  150, 
paper  was  invented;  in  745  books  were  first  made,  and  in  926 
they  were  multiplied  by  printing  ; so  that  the  Chinese  appear 
to  have  made  early  advances  in  civilization,  while  we  only 
discovered  the  art  of  making  paper  in  the  eleventh,  and  that 
of  printing  in  the  fifteenth  century. 


264 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Their  mode  of  printing  is  of  the  simplest  character,  and 
although  it  discourages  the  compilation  of  new  works,  it  has 
among  its  advantages  those  of  speed  and  cheapness.  Their 
language  consists  of  a great  number  of  characters,  and  instead 
of  having  an  assortment  of  these,  they  prefer  to  cut  the 
characters  for  each  separate  work,  page  by  page.  The  first 
part  of  the  process  is  to  have  the  page  written  out  in  the 
printed  form  of  the  character,  and  is  then  transferred  to  the 
wood  as  follows : the  smooth  block  is  covered  with  a glutin- 
ous paste,  the  paper  applied  and  allowed  to  remain  until  it  is 
dry.  When  removed  it  leaves  the  inverted  impressions  of 
the  characters  upon  the  block.  The  engraver  then  proceeds, 
in  a skillful  and  expeditious  manner,  to  remove  all  of  the 
wood  around  and  within  the  letters.  A page  usually  con- 
tains from  four  to  five  hundred  characters,  and  will  take  a 
skillful  and  expeditious  engraver  from  four  to  five  days  to 
prepare  the  block. 

The  block  thus  prepared,  now  passes  into  the  hands  of  the 
printer,  who  places  it  upon  a table,  with  a pot  of  ink  and  a 
brush  upon  the  one  hand,  and  a pile  of  dry  paper  upon  the 
other,  and  before  him  a rubber.  The  workman  now  pro- 
ceeds to  business ; first,  to  ink  over  the  block ; next,  he 
smoothly  places  a sheet  of  the  paper  upon  it,  and  then,  after 
passing  the  rubber  over  it  two  or  three  times,  the  sheet  is 
removed,  and  the  same  process  repeated.  An  accomplished 
printer  will  in  this  manner  make  more  than  three  thousand 
impressions  in  a day.  The  same  process  is  gone  through 
with  other  blocks,  until  the  required  number  of  copies  of  the 
whole  book  is  completed ; then  come  the  arranging,  folding, 
and  stitching,  and  the  books  are  finished.  Their  paper  is 
very  thin,  but  very  cheap,  ten  sheets  costing  less  than  one 
cent ; then,  as  labor  is  very  cheap  also,  books  in  China  cost 
almost  nothing.  The  complete  works  of  Confucius,  with  the 
commentaries  of  Choo-foo-tsze,  comprising  six  volumes,  and 
amounting  to  eight  hundred  octavo  pages,  can  be  purchased 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


265 


for  less  than  twenty  cents.  Literature  is  thus  brought  within 
the  reach  of  all,  and  it  has  been  said  with  truth,  that  China 
has  more  books  and  more  people  to  read  them,  than  any 
other  part  of  the  world. 

Leaving  New  Town,  we  took  a sampan  and  crossed  over  to 
Bamboo  Town,  and  from  the  summit  of  the  beautiful  emi- 
nence which  rises  immediately  in  the  rear,  we  had  a splen- 
did view  of  the  three  divisions,  the  harbor,  and  the  country 
for  many  miles  around.  This  eminence  is  possessed  by  the 
Parsees,  and  by  them  used  as  a burying-ground — there  being 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  of  their  square,  box-like,  stone  sepul- 
chres near  the  summit.  In  all  its  outlines  and  adornments 
the  place  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  it  forms  a prominent 
feature  in  all  the  Chinese  paintings  or  engravings  of  Whampoa. 

While  we  were  up  there  we  espied  a native  funeral  pro- 
cession wending  its  way  along  the  foot  of  the  eminence,  to- 
wards a burying-ground  some  half  a mile  distant — and  we, 
out  of  curiosity,  joined  it.  The  order  of  the  procession  was 
as  follows : a man  carrying  a pole  to  which  were  attached 
many  and  variously  colored  streamers — Joss  papers;  one 
bearing  dishes  of  food,  drink,  and  fruits ; one  with  a bundle 
of  small  Joss  papers,  which  he  scattered  right  and  left ; then 
the  priest,  beating  a mournful  march  upon  a pair  of  cymbals, 
and  chanting  an  accompaniment ; after  him  was  borne  the 
corpse  upon  the  shoulders  of  four  men ; and  tfyen,  mourners 
and  friends  brought  up  the  rear.  The  chief  mourners  were 
dressed  in  sackcloth  frocks  and  caps,  while  the  others  wore 
white  sashes  and  caps.  A crimson  cloth  covered  the  coffin. 
At  the  grave  the  collected  Joss  papers  were  burned,  a prayer 
was  offered  by  the  priest,  the  articles  of  food  were  left,  and 
the  ceremony  wras  over. 

Other  funerals  I have  seen  where  the  whole  procession 
is  led  by  the  loud  and  rapid  music — if  music  it  could  be 
called — of  gongs,  cymbals,  and  flutes.  Then,  in  a box  sus- 
pended from  poles  and  resting  upon  men’s  shoulders,  is  a pier 


266 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


roasted  whole.  After  the  priest,  and  slung  on  poles  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  pig,  comes  the  coffin.  Then  follow  five 
or  six  fancifully  ornamented  sedan-chairs,  in  each  of  which  is 
some  article  of  food,  ornamented  with  wreaths  and  boquets 
of  flowers.  After  these,  come  some  dressed  in  white  and 
wearing  sugar-loaf  hats,  while  behind  all  are  the  real  mourn- 
ers, dressed  in  sackcloth;  the  funeral  is  made  a wedding  by 
the  substitution  of  a gaily  dressed  sedan-chair  conveying  the 
bride.  And  the  friends  for  the  mourners,  sons  and  near  rela- 
tives, wear  white  silk  or  cotton  braided  in  their  queues  for 
mourning,  for  the  two  or  three  years  following  a death.  Blue 
is  used  instead  of  white  in  some  of  the  northern  provinces. 

After  the  funeral  services  were  over,  having  three  or 
four  hours  to  spare  before  sundown,  we  crossed  to  Bamboo 
Town  and  visited  the  Joss  tower  back  of  the  town,  which  we 
had  passed  a few  days  before.  It  is  a hexagonal  brick  struc- 
ture, about  fifty  feet  high,  divided  into  three  stories,  resting 
upon  a granite  platform  five  or  six  feet  high  and  reached  by 
a flight  of  stone  steps  on  each  side.  The  tower  is  sur- 
mounted by  a conical-shaped,  wooden  roof.  The  grounds 
around  are  fine,  and  well  kept.  Across  the  moat  is  a brick 
house,  where  reside  the  priest  and  those  having  the  care  of 
the  tower  and  grounds.  A small  present  to  the  priest  opened 
the  doors  for  us,  and  we  entered.  The  inside  we  found  to  be 
in  good  repair,  with  rich  and  gaily  adorned  idols  placed  in 
every  story.  A splendid  and  extensive  view  is  to  be  had 
from  the  upper  one. 

Our  stay  at  Whampoa  had  been  characterized  by  so  much 
interest  and  freedom  of  action,  tliat  all  regretted  the  orders 
of  the  Admiral  to  return  to  Hong  Kong,  more  especially  as 
these  orders  were  accompanied  by  others  to  get  ready  for  sea 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  start  for  the  northward  again.  All 
dread  the  prospect  of  being  farther  north  during  the  winter, 
for  here  we  have  to  wear  overcoats  and  mufflers  during  the 
night  time,  to  keep  comfortable.  We  left  Whampoa  the  23d, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


267 


but,  running  aground,  we  were  obliged  to  wait  until  high  tide 
before  we  could  get  off,  and  consequently  did  not  arrive  here 
until  the  next  day. 

The  convening  of  a general  court-martial,  and  the  arrival 
of  the  holidays,  have  been  the  prominent  events  of  our  stay 
here  this  time.  Upon  Christmas  eve  many  of  the  vessels  in 
the  harbor,  as  well  as  houses  ashore,  were  brilliantly  illumi- 
nated. All  our  crew  were  quite  noisy  and  jolly — heightened, 
no  doubt,  by  sundry  bottles  of  ale  and  wine  sent  forward  by 
the  officers — and  the  singing,  dancing,  and  other  sports,  were 
kept  up  until  a late  hour.  Christmas  was  a beautiful  day, 
and  was  celebrated  by  us  in  grand  style.  I thought  many 
times  of  the  dear  friends  at  home,  and  would  have  liked  to 
have  been  with  them  to  have  spent  the  day  ; but  as  I could 
not,  I contented  myself  with  what  I had,  and  can’t  say  but 
that  I enjoyed  myself  very  much.  It  certainly  was  the 
pleasantest  of  the  three  that  I have  spent  in  the  service. 
For  more  than  a week  preparations  had  been  made  for  the 
dinner,  and  it  was  a perfect  success — a complete  triumph  of 
culinary  skill.  I did  not  dream  that  the  crew  of  a man-of- 
war  could  successfully  conceive  or  prepare  one,  one-half  as 
good.  The  bill  of  fare  included : roast  pigs,  stuffed  geese, 
chicken  pies,  roast  beef  and  mutton,  with  puddings,  pies,  and 
fruits,  for  dessert.  As  an  addition,  the  officers  sent  forward 
an  abundance  of  ale  and  champagne  to  each  mess,  so  that 
after  dinner  it  was  about  as  jolly  a crew  as  one  ever  meets 
with. 

Nature  would  affirm  that  this  day  has  been  a lovely  one  ; 
for  everything  in  it  combined  to  make  it  so, — the  air  soft  and 
warm,  the  sun  shining  brightly,  undimmed  by  a single  cloud, 
and  everything  so  quiet  and  full  of  harmony.  Yet  it  has 
been  a sad  and  darksome  day  to  many  of  us, — occasioned  by 
the  parting  with  ten  of  our  shipmates,  whose  time  had  ex- 
pired, and  who  were  transferred  on  board  of  the  Supply , to 
be  sent  home  upon  the  first  opportunity.  Nature’s  bright 


268 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


face  seemed  but  to  heighten  our  loss.  One  there  was  among 
them  who  had  been  to  me  as  a brother  for  two  years,  and 
parting  with  him  seemed  like  parting  with  a brother.  I had 
put  off  saying  the  parting  words  until  the  last  moment,  but 
when  that  came  I could  not  speak,  my  heart  was  too  full.  I 
could  only  grasp  him  by  the  hand,  and  let  the  adieu  be  a 
silent  one.  For  two  years  we  have  had  everything  in  com- 
mon— sharing  all  each  other’s  joys,  sorrows,  and  confidences, 
and  thus  weaving  a bond  of  friendship  which  one  can  know 
or  understand  only  by  experience. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


269 


LETTER  XXVII. 

IT.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Chefoo,  China, 
January  22,  1867. 

My  Dear  R. : 

Immediately  after  the  transfer  and  the  sad  parting  attend- 
ant upon  it,  orders  were  given  to  make  preparations  for  get- 
ting under  way,  and  in  less  than  two  hours  we  were  steam- 
ing down  the  bay,  on  our  way  for  the  northward.  In  Ly 
Moon  pass  we  housed  topmasts  and  sent  down  the  yards,  as 
we  had  a strong  head  wind  to  steam  against.  The  two  days 
following  were  very  unpleasant, — the  wind  strong,  the  sea 
rough,  and  with  nothing  aloft  to  steady  her,  the  ship  rolled 
and  pitched  about  terribly,  making  all  more  or  less  sea-sick. 

The  third  evening  out,  the  captain,  apprehending  a gale, 
with  his  customary  forethought  and  prudence,  put  the  vessel 
into  Linchan  Bay — a snug  little  harbor,  formed  by  some 
barren,  rocky  islands  off  the  coast,  near  Foo*chow.  Fortu- 
nate for  us  was  it  that  he  did  so  ; for  we  had  been  anchored 
but  a short  time,  when  the  wind  began  to  blow  in  fitful  gusts, 
and  soon  increased  in  fury  to  a regular  hurricane,  or  typhoon, 
as  they  are  called  here  in  China.  This  continuing,  we  re- 
mained there  for  two  days,  when  the  wind  lulled,  the  sea 
calmed  down,  and  we  proceeded  on  our  way  to  Shanghai. 
There  we  arrived  January  6th,  having  been  but  a week  in 
the  passage  from  Hong  Kong,  including  stoppages,  which,  at 
this  season  of  the  year,  is  considered  a good  passage. 

Immediately  after  anchoring,  money  was  served  out,  and 
the  crew  sent  ashore  on  general  liberty. 

One  evening,  a day  or  two  after  our  arrival,  we  were  all 
startled  by  a loud  explosion,  and  a few  minutes  later  an 


270 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


English  brig,  lying  at  anchor  down  the  harbor,  was  seen  to 
be  on  fire.  The  cutters  were  immediately  manned  and  sent 
to  her  assistance,  and  in  a short  time  succeeded  in  extin- 
guishing the  flames.  When  they  returned  to  the  ship  they 
told  the  following  story.  Part  of  the  brig’s  cargo  consisted 
of  powder,  in  kegs,  and  this  they  had  been  discharging 
during  the  day.  Before  sweeping  up  what  had  scattered 
from  the  kegs  as  they  rolled  them  along,  the  mate  lit  his 
pipe,  and  while  going  about  the  hold  with  it  in  his  mouth, 
he  let  fall  some  sparks  upon  the  scattered  powder,  which 
communicating  with  a number  of  full  kegs,  caused  the  ex- 
plosion. Considerable  damage  was  done  to  the  vessel,  two 
Chinese  laborers  were  killed,  and  several  were  severely  in- 
jured and  burned, — among  the  latter  was  the  mate.  The 
cutters  conveyed  the  injured  ones  to  the  hospital. 

For  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  transfer  1 was  terribly 
lonely,  and  would  have  given  almost  anything  to  have  the 
transferred  ones  back  again ; or,  better  still,  to  have  been 
with  them.  I miss  my  “chum”  in  everything,  and  it  does 
seem  like  beginning  a new  life  to  get  along  without  him, — 
so  long  have  we  been  together  doing  and  using  everything 
in  common.  I shall  be  so  glad  when  my  turn  comes  to  leave 
this  far  away,  heathen  country,  and  start  for  home. 

There  was  nothing  to  occasion  a long  stay  in  Shanghai ; 
so,  after  four  days  occupied  in  giving  liberty  and  taking  in 
coal  and  provisions,  we  again  made  preparations  to  proceed 
to  the  northward. 

But  I must  not  leave  Shanghai  without  relating  an  inci- 
dent which  came  under  my  notice  while  on  liberty  there? 
which,  if  it  affects  your  risibility  to  such  a degree  as  it  did 
mine,  I shall  be  amply  repaid  for  the  narration. 

While  walking  along  on  the  Bund  my  attention  was  at- 
tracted by  an  excited  crowd  of  Chinese  assembled  in  front  of 
the  Custom-house.  Arriving  there  I found  that  the  excite- 
ment was  occasioned  by  two  Chinese,  engaged  in  what  was 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


271 


to  me  a novel  combat.  They  stood  about  two  feet  apart,  and 
were  lashing  one  another  about  the  head  and  face  with  their 
long  queues.  These  they  handled  with  such  skill  and  fury 
that  the  face  and  arms  of  both  were  covered  with  blood, 
drawn  by  the  force  of  the  blows.  It  required  no  small 
amount  of  dexterity  to  strike  an  effective  blow  with  these 
queues , grasping  them  as  they  did  so  close  to  the  back  of  the 
head  ; and  it  would  not  have  failed  to  make  you  laugh,  could 
you  but  have  seen  how  they  would  duck  their  heads  at  each 
blow  they  gave,  in  order  to  add  more  effect  to  it.  The  com- 
bat lasted  for  upwards  of  fifteen  minutes,  until  both  of  the 
participators  were  completely  exhausted.  The  spectators 
appeared  to  enjoy  it  very  much,  and  frequently  encouraged 
the  combatants  with  cheering  words.  I have  never  before 
witnessed  this  mode  of  warfare,  but  I am  told  that  it  is  very 
frequently  practiced. 

We  were  four  days  in  making  the  passage  from  Shanghai 
to  Cheefoo,  the  first  two  of  which  were  quite  warm  and 
pleasant  for  the  latitude  and  season  of  the  year.  The  third 
day  it  was  cold,  stormy,  and  disagreeable,  which  increased 
rather  than  diminished  on  the  fourth  day,  and  making  our 
visit  to  Cheefoo  cheerless  and  dreary  to  begin  with. 

However,  we  had  a warm  welcome  from  the  crew  of  H. 
B.  M.’s  Gunboat  Insolence,  whose  hearts  we  gladdened  with 
the  two  months’  accumulated  mail  brought  up  from  Shang- 
hai— there  being  no  regular  mail  communication  with  Che- 
foo  during  the  winter  season. 

Notwithstanding  the  cold  and  dreary  sensation  which  we 
experienced  upon  our  arrival,  our  stay  has  been  a very 
pleasant  one.  The  Captain  has  done  everything  that  he  was 
able  to  make  it  pleasant  for  us — having  no  work  done  that 
was  not  absolutely  necessary,  and  had  hoods  put  up  at  the 
“ break  of  the  forecastle,”  underneath  which  the  men  were 
allowed  to  have  a fire  night  and  day,  and  where  they  could 
sit,  smoke,  make  and  drink  their  coffee. 


272 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Here  game  of  almost  all  kinds  is  abundant  and  cheap,  so 
that  as  regards  the  inner  man  all  would  be  content  to  remain 
at  Chefoo  the  remainder  of  the  winter.  Yesterday  while 
on  shore  I amused  myself  for  several  hours  in  shooting  wild 
duck,  which  in  immense  flocks  lined  the  water’s  edge  only  a 
short  distance  back  of  the  town. 

After  I had  secured  as  much  as  I wished  to  take  off  to  the 
ship,  and  having  several  hours  left  before  the  “ sundown 
boat  ” would  be  sent  in  shore,  I conceived  the  idea  that  I 
should  enjoy  a good  skate  on  the  little  pond  at  the  rear  of 
the  English  Consulate’s,  which  I had  noticed  was  covered 
over  with  a sufficiently  thick  crust  of  ice.  After  racking 
my  brain  for  a few  minutes  to  think  of  a way  and  place 
to  procure  a pair  of  skates,  I at  length  determined  to  go 
up  to  the  Consul’s  and  endeavor  to  procure  a pair  from 
him.  Accordingly  I went  up  there  and  stated  my  desire. 
He  appeared  to  be  much  amused  at  my  novel  request, 
but  after  a few  minutes’  conversation  he  cheerfully  loaned  me 
the  desired  skates.  I took  them,  went  down  to  the  pond,  put 
them  on,  and  skated  away  there  hour  after  hour,  with  the 
deepest  pleasure.  At  length  the  setting  sun  told  me  that  it 
was  time  for  the  boat,  so  I unstrapped  the  skates  and  returned 
them  to  the  Consul,  with  many  thanks  for  his  kindness.  His 
name  I have  been  unable  to  learn,  but  I shall  ever  think  of 
him  with  feelings  of  gratitude  for  his  kindness  in  cheerfully 
furnishing  me  with  the  means  of  an  afternoon’s  deep  enjoy- 
ment. 

We  expect  to  leave  here  to-morrow  for  Corea,  to  investi- 
gate the  circumstances  attendant  upon  the  loss  of  the  Ameri- 
can schooner  General  Sherman,  and  the  fate  of  the  people 
on  board  of  her,  which  vessel  was  wrecked  there  some  time 
ago.  It  is  feared  that  all  on  board  of  her  at  the  time  have 
perished — murdered  by  the  natives.  Our  object  in  coming 
to  Chefoo  was  to  procure  the  Chinese  pilot  which  was  on 
board  of  the  General  Sherman  a few  days  before  her  loss, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


273 


and  we  are  to  take  him  with  us  to  give  such  information  as 
he  may  be  able. 

We  are  also  to  take  with  us  the  Rev.  Mr.  Corbett,  an  Amer- 
ican Missionary  at  Chefoo,  who  is  to  act  as  interpreter,  he  be- 
ing thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  Chinese  written  language. 
This  is  the  same  in  China,  Corea,  and  Japan,  but  the  spoken 
language  is  unlike,  and  even  entirely  different  dialects  are 
used  in  different  provinces  of  the  same  country.  As  my  let- 
ter is  not  very  long  I will  lengthen  it  by  giving  you  some 
little  account  of  their  language,  as  far  as  I have  been  able  to 
learn,  feeling  sure  that  any  such  information  will  be  of  inter- 
est to  you. 

The  written  language,  as  I have  mentioned,  is  the  same 
throughout  the  whole  empire,  and  has  been,  for  centuries, 
unchanged,  while  the  spoken  sounds  vary  in  every  province, 
and  in  almost  every  succeeding  age.  Both  of  the  mediums 
of  communication  are  of  the  most  primitive  order — the  words 
monosyllabic,  and  the  characters  symbolic. 

The  earliest  traditions  of  the  Chinese  tell  us  that  events 
were  recorded  by  means  of  knotted  cords  ; their  next  ad- 
vance was  to  pictorial  illustrations ; then  hieroglyphics  were 
employed ; and  then,  their  last  and  greatest  improvement, 
was  made  in  the  invention  and  increase  of  arbitrary  marks — 
forming  their  present  written  medium.  They  assert  that  the 
idea  of  employing  arbitrary  signs  was  first  derived  from  the 
tracings  of  birds’  tracks  in  the  snow,  and  from  the  marks  upon 
the  back  of  a tortoise.  These  signs  are  said  to  have  been  in- 
vented by  Tsang-kee,  upwards  of  four  thousand  five  hundred 
years  ago. 

Their  characters  are  divided  into  six  classes — the  pictorial, 
the  metaphorical,  the  indicative,  the  constructive,  the  deriva- 
tive, and  the  phonetic.  The  first  bear  some  resemblance 
to  the  object ; the  second  derive  their  meaning  from  some- 
thing else ; the  third  convey  their  meaning  by  the  formation 
13 


274 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


of  the  characters ; the  fourth  derive  their  meaning  from  the 
parts  of  which  they  are  composed ; the  fifth  are  other  charac- 
ters slightly  varied ; and  the  sixth  are  those  in  which  the 
form  and  sound  harmonize.  Their  fullest  dictionaries  con- 
tain more  than  thirty  thousand  characters,  but  hardly  more 
than  one-tenth  of  that  number  are  in  common  use. 

Chinese  characters  appear  complicated  to  one  first  observ- 
ing them,  but  a careful  examination  will  show  that  there  are 
but  six  distinct  strokes  employed — the  horizontal,  the  perpen- 
dicular, the  right  and  the  left  oblique  slanting,  the  hooked,  and 
the  dot.  The  whole  number  of  the  elements  is  less  than  two 
hundred  and  twenty ; but  of  these  no  more  than  one-fourth 
are  commonly  employed,  of  which  again  one-fourth  are  most 
common. 

Every  character  occupies  an  exact  square,  no  matter  of 
how  many  strokes  it  is  composed,  and  a well  written  page 
appears  divided  into  equal  sections.  They  read  from  top  to 
bottom,  commencing  at  the  right  hand  of  a page,  and  at  what 
would  to  us  be  the  back  part  of  the  book.  The  paper  is  so 
thin  that  but  one  side  of  it  is  used,  either  in  printing  or  writ- 
ing. Eighty  or  eighty-five  leaves  form  a volume,  and  are 
always  bound  in  thin  paper  covers. 

As  the  sound  of  each  character  is  produced  by  a single 
emission  of  the  voice,  their  spoken  language  is  monosyllabic. 
Where  two  syllables  appear  to  be,  from  the  sound,  it  will  be 
found  upon  examination  that  they  are  two  characters  joined, 
and  where  the  pronunciation  is  written  with  a diaeresis,  both 
vowels  are,  or  should  be  sounded  together.  As  their  charac- 
ters do  not  represent  elementary  sounds,  the  Chinese  know 
nothing  about  spelling.  However,  every  word  is  divided 
into  an  initial  and  a final.  By  the  union  of  these,  nine  hun- 
dred and  forty-six  monosyllables  could  be  produced ; but  less 
than  one-third  of  this  number  are  really  extracted.  At  first 
it  would  seem  impossible  for  the  Chinese  to  converse  with 
each  other,  with  only  three  hundred  monosyllables,  but  this 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


275 


is  accomplished  by  giving  to  each  syllable  a variety  of  tones, 
easily  discernable  to  the  accustomed  Chinese  ear,  but  exceed- 
ingly difficult  for  a foreigner  to  acquire. 

The  tones  are  five  in  number — the  high,  the  even,  the 
departing,  the  entering,  and  a lower  “ even  ” tone.  These 
make  fifteen  hundred  distinct  utterances ; but  no  more  than 
one-third  of  these  are  used.  To  prevent,  in  a great  meas- 
ure, mistakes  from  having  several  characters  to  the  same 
sound,  the  Chinese  combine  individual  terms  in  set  phrases, 
which  are  used  like  our  compound  words  ; so  that  it  is  neces- 
sary to  learn,  not  only  the  characters  and  tones,  but  also  the 
collocation  of  phrases,  which  are  very  extensively  employed. 

With  the  exception  of  the  United  States,  China  takes  the 
lead  of  all  other  countries  in  the  number  of  its  inhabitants 
which  are  able  to  read — it  being  estimated  that  at  least  one- 
half  of  them  can  do  so.  This  is  owing  in  part  to  the  exceed- 
ing cheapness  of  all  printed  matter ; but  more,  probably,  to 
the  great  inducements  offered  for  learning.  The  most  of  the 
titles  and  positions  of  rank  are  not  hereditary,  and  are  to  be 
attained  only  by  merit.  In  this,  education  holds  a prominent 
position,  and  through  it,  as  in  the  United  States,  almost  any 
rank  and  title  can  be  reached.  They  have  a proverb,  and  a 
true  one,  too,  that u while  royalty  is  hereditary,  office  is  not.” 

There  has  been  so  many  strange  things  said  about  China, 
as  well  as  other  countries  in  the  east,  and  so  recently  has  it 
been  opened  to  foreign  insight  and  intercourse,  that  but  com- 
paratively few  have  yet  received  authentic  accounts  of  the 
manners,  customs,  laws,  and  other  points  of  interest  about 
the  people — that,  out  of  the  many  things  said,  one  hardly 
knows  how  much  or  what  to  believe.  The  people,  judged 
by  our  own  standard,  are  a strange  people ; their  customs  are 
strange,  and  everything  regarding  their  manners,  dress,  etc., 
are  very  strange.  But  they  are  a wonderful  people  after  all, 
and  their  country  is  full  of  wonderful  things. 


276 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Perhaps  you  may  think  that  I digress  greatly  from  the 
main  intent  of  my  letters,  but  I can  but  believe  that  any- 
thing relative  to  these  strange  people  will  be  of  interest  to 
you,  and  so  shall  continue  to  give  them  to  you  as  they  are 
brought  under  my  observation. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER, 


277 


LETTER  XXVIII. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Port  Hamilton,  Corea, 
February  2,  1867. 

My  Dear  R. : 

Before  wandering  off  into  Chinese  language  and  literature, 
we  were  about  leaving  Chefoo  for  Corea.  Towards  evening 
we  started,  with  a good  “ beam  wind,”  and  under  both  steam 
and  canvas.  Early  the  next  morning  we  sighted  the  high, 
ragged,  rocky  coast  of  Corea.  The  forenoon  we  passed  in 
cruising  about  a large  bay  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ta-tung  ri  rer, 
engaged  in  taking  soundings  and  bearings.  The  Ta-tung 
river  empties  its  waters  in  Lat.  38°  04'  N.,  and  Long.  124° 
50'  E.,  into  a large  bay  some  ten  or  eleven  miles  in  diameter, 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high,  barren,  rocky  hills.  This 
bay  has  several  openings  to  the  sea,  by  one  of  which  we  came 
in  ; it  is  the  largest  of  them  all,  being  nearly  a mile  wide. 

We  at  length  came  to  anchor  near  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
under  the  lee  of  Nein-Fo,  or  Cow  Island,  in  seventeen  fathoms 
of  water.  Upon  this  island  is  located  the  chief  one  of  a num- 
ber of  fishing  villages,  situated  near  each  other.  A visit  from 
the  inhabitants  showed  us  none  of  the  wildness  and  ferocity 
which  the  Coreans  had  been  said  to  possess,  in  their  looks  and 
actions  ; instead,  they  appeared  to  be  an  inoffensive,  unarmed 
race,  yet  very  rude  and  barbarous.  At  first  sight  they  might 
be  taken  for  Indians,  or,  nearer  still,  Japanese,  but  they  do 
not  closely  resemble  either — being  about  midway  between  the 
latter  and  the  Chinese.  Their  skin  is  dark,  almost  copper 
colored ; they  do  not  shave  the  head  at  all,  but  collect  the 
hair  all  together  and  fasten  it  in  a knot  upon  the  top  of  the 


278 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


head;  their  features  partake  of  the  characteristics  of  both 
races;  their  clothes  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  skins,  and 
made  up  for  comfort,  regardless  of  looks.  They  use  stock- 
ings and  sandals  similar  to  those  worn  by  the  Japanese, 
but  with  no  separate  place  for  the  great  toe.  Altogether, 
their  appearance  is  inferior  to  that  of  either  the  Chinese  or 
Japanese. 

The  next  day  the  chief’s  son  was  sent  by  us  with  a com- 
munication  to  the  king  of  Corea,  and  also  with  a letter  to 
the  presiding  officer  of  the  province,  Chang-Yuen-Heen. 
The  following  is  a copy  of  the  latter  : 

( Copy. — Translation.) 

United  States  Steamer  Wachusett,  ) 
Mouth  of  the  Ta-tung  River,  Jan.  24,  1867.  ) 

Sir  : 

The  Commander  of  the  American  Armed  Vessel  Wachu- 
sett sends  greeting  to  the  presiding  officer  of  the  Province 
of  Chang-Yuen-Heen,  and  wishes  to  inform  his  excellency 
that  he  lias  come  to  the  borders  of  Corea,  not  to  engage  in 
war  nor  any  unlawful  business ; but  is  anxious  that  harmony 
and  peace  should  exist,  as  heretofore,  between  America  and 
Corea. 

“ He  respectfully  requests  that  you  forward  the  accompa- 
nying document  to  your  king  with  all  due  dispatch.  It  is 
hoped  that  the  answer  to  the  accompanying  document  will 
be  returned  without  delay,  that  he  may  depart  without  de- 
lay, in  p'eace,  from  where  he  is  now  lying  at  anchor  in  the 
harbor  of  Ta-ping. 

Very  Respectfully,  &c.,  &c., 

(Signed)  Robert  W.  Schufeldt, 
Commander  of  the  United  States  Steamer  Wachusett. 
His  Excellency  the  Presiding  Officer  of  the  Province  of 
Chang-Yuen-Heen. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


279 


“United  States  Armed  Vessel  Wachusett, 
Harbor  of  Ta-ping,  January  24,  1867. 


} 


To  His  Majesty,  the  King  of  Corea : 

The  Commander  of  the  American  Armed  Vessel  Wachu- 
sett begs  to  inform  your  Majesty,  that  he  has  come  to  the 
borders  of  your  kingdom,  not  to  engage  in  war,  nor  any  un- 
lawful business,  but  in  obedience  to  the  command  of  the 
officer  commanding  the  American  armed  vessels  stationed  in 
these  seas,  who  has  learned  with  great  pleasure  and  thank- 
fulness of  the  kindness  of  your  Majesty’s  officers  and  people 
to  the  shipwrecked  crew  of  the  American  vessel  in  the  month 
of  June  last,  on  the  west  coast  of  Corea ; how  your  Majesty 
had  them  transported  to  the  confines  of  China,  from  whence 
they  safely  reached  their  friends.  The  whole  American  peo- 
ple cannot  but  feel  thankful,  and  praise  your  nation,  for  this 
act  of  brotherly  love. 

The  officer  commanding  the  Armed  Vessels  of  America 
has  since  learned  with  pain  and  surprise,  that  the  people  of 
another  American  vessel,  wrecked  in  the  Tai-tong  river,  in 
the  Provice  of  Ping-Yang,  in  the  month  of  September  last, 
were  all  put  to  death  and  the  vessel  burned,  and  he  has  or- 
dered me  to  ask  of  your  Majesty  if  this  be  true,  and  if  true, 
to  ask  of  your  Majesty  what  evil  these  people  had  done  that 
they  should  be  made  to  suffer  such  treatment.  But  if  any 
or  all  of  these  people  are  still  living,  the  officer  commanding 
the  Armed  Vessels  of  America  has  directed  me  to  ask  of 
your  Majesy  that  they  may  be  delivered  to  me  on  board  of 
the  Wachusett,  now  lying  in  the  harbor  of  Ta-fung,  near  the 
Nein-fo  islands,  or  at  any  more  convenient  port  your  Majesty 
may  select.  This  is  especially  desired,  that  the  peace  and 
friendship,  which  has  hitherto  been  uninterrupted  for  many 
years,  may  still  continue  between  America  and  Corea.  A 


280 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


speedy  answer  is  requested  to  this  communication  in  order 
that  I may  depart  in  haste. 

Very  Respectfully,  etc.,  etc., 

Robert  W.  Shufeldt, 

Commanding  United  States  Armed  Vessel  Wachusett.” 
His  Majesty,  the  King  of  Corea. 

While  awaiting  the  replies  to  these  communications,  a sur- 
vey of  the  bay  and  adjoining  inlets  was  made,  as  there  had 
none  been  made  before.  To  the  bay  we  gave  the  name  of 
the  vessel,  and  called  the  various  inlets  after  our  officers. 
Attempts  were  also  made  to  establish  and  cultivate  friendly 
relations  with  the  natives.  The  inhabitants  of  the  fishing 
villages  appeared  to  be  kindly  disposed  towards  us,  but  in 
great  dread  of  their  government,  and  came  as  little  in  contact 
with  us  as  possible.  We  saw  no  iron  in  use;  the  boats  were 
constructed  with  wooden  pegs  for  fastenings,  or  bound  to- 
gether by  coarse  seaweed  cordage. 

One  afternoon  the  old  chief  came  on  board,  accompanied 
by  several  of  the  natives.  His  costume  did  not  differ  from 
that  of  the  others  in  style  or  material,  with  the  exception 
of  having  a covering  of  fine  wire  network  for  his  “top-knot.” 
Upon  seeing  it  an  old  sailor  remarked,  “ That  ar’s  the  old 
feller’s  winter  cap,  he  has  a cooler  one  for  summer.”  He 
examined  everything  about  the  ship  with  the  deepest  interest, 
and  seemed  to  be  much  pleased  with  everything  he  saw. 

Like  the  Chinese,  the  Coreans  appear  to  regard  filthiness  as 
a virtue ; and  if  they  are  right  in  such  a belief  they  are  the 
most  perfect  race  of  people  that  I ever  met  with,  for  they 
are  certainly  the  most  filthy.  Their  appearance  would  tes- 
tify that  water  was  unknown  to  them ; and  then  such  lice  as 
they  had — ugh  ! It  makes  me  crawl  to  think  of  them  ; and 
a certain  old  salt — noted  for  confining  his  yarns  to  the  strict- 
est bounds  of  truth — said  that  he  “ saw  them  jump  from  the 
clothes  of  the  natives  into  the  rigging,  run  up  it,  and  perch 
themselves  upon  the  to’gallant  mast  truck,  where  they  could 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


281 


be  plainly  seen  laughing  at  and  making  comments  upon  us 
down  below.”  Was  he  not  so  well  known  as  a person  of  un- 
doubted veracity,  I could  hardly  credit  the  whole  of  his  story. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  certain  that  the  Coreans  are  filthy 
and  covered  with  vermin  beyond  description. 

All  the  natives  to  whom  anything  was  said  about  the  Gen - 
eral  Sherman , spoke  with  great  reserve,  but  told  the  same 
story; — that  the  vessel  was  burned  last  September,  up  the 
Ping  Ying  river,  and  that  all  that  were  on  board  of  her  at 
the  time,  amounting  to  twenty-seven  persons,  were  killed  in 
a melee  with  the  natives  on  shore,  and  not  by  order  of  the 
mandarins.  The  river  will  not  be  clear  of  ice  for  two 
months  yet,>and  then  a vessel  cannot  ascend  more  than  half 
way  to  Ping-Yang-soo,  the  principal  place  on  the  river. 

The  Coreans  say  that  frequently  the  Chinese  pirates  make 
a descent  upon  the  coast  with  their  junks,  and  rob  the  inhab- 
itants ; and  that  ten  of  the  crew  of  the  General  Sherman 
were  of  these  pirates.  This  report  was  confirmed  by  our 
pilot.  Mr.  Hogarth,  an  English  subject,  who  was  on  board 
the  General  Sherman  when  the  disaster  occurred,  was  well 
known  throughout  China  for  his  reckless  character,  and  his 
acquaintances  think  that  if  a disturbance  was  created,  he 
took  a prominent  part. 

Tuesday  morning,  January  29,  an  officer  who  said  that  he 
came  from  Hai-Chow-Poo,  the  capital  city  of  the  province, 
fifty  miles  up  the  Ta-ting  river,  was  brought  on  board  by  one 
of  our  boats  for  which  he  had  signaled.  The  manner  of  this 
officer  was  haughty  and  imperious,  and  he  presented  in  his 
appearance  the  most  perfect  type  of  a cruel  and  vindictive 
savage.  His  presence  seemed  to  inspire  the  greatest  fear 
and  dread,  and  it  is  feared  that  the  old  chief,  and  the  mes- 
senger, his  son,  will  pay  for  their  friendship  towards  us,  by 
the  loss  of  their  heads.  It  is  thought  that  he  was  either  the 
governor  of  Hai-Chow-Poo,  or  some  high  official  in  his  con- 
fidence. The  interview  with  him,  as  usual,  was  carried  on 
13* 


282 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


by  writing — Mr.  Corbett  acting  as  interpreter — and  resulted 
in  a most  unsatisfactory  manner.  He  professed  to  know 
nothing  concerning  the  General  Sherman  affair,  and  told  us 
that  we  had  better  leave  the  coast.  The  main  answer  to  all 
of  Captain  Shufeldtfs  questions  was,  that  it  did  not  become 
us  to  remain  longer  in  the  place,  and  earnestly  hoped  that 
we  would  depart  and  return  to  our  own  country.  So  all 
hopes  that  there  would  be  found  some  peaceable  and  satisfac- 
tory solution  of  the  Sherman  affair,  as  well  as  to  have  discov- 
ered some  of  the  crew  still  living,  and  rescued  them,  have 
proved  futile,  and  the  matter  remains  as  before.  With  this 
conviction,  and  thinking  that  it  would  be  useless  to  remain 
longer,  we  got  under  way  that  same  day  and  started  for  the 
southward,  our  parting  words  being  that  “ we  should  come 
again  with  more  ships.” 

Three  days’  steaming  brought  us  to  anchor  at  Port  Ham- 
ilton, (Nanhoo,)  among  the  islands  off  the  southern  coast  of 
Corea.  It  is  situated  in  Lat.  34°  01'  23"  N.,  Long.  127° 
20'  W.,  and  about  three  hundred  miles  from  Wachusett  Bay ; 
but  in  the  passage  we  logged  four  hundred  and  fifty-five  knots. 

In  connection  with  our  visit  to  Corea  for  the  purpose  of 
inquiring  into  the  Sherman  affair,  we  were  also  directed  to 
inquire  into  the  advantages  of  Port  Hamilton  as  a rendez- 
vous and  sanitarium  for  the  squadron,  and  also  as  a harbor 
of  refuge  in  times  of  danger,  for  American  commerce  in 
these  waters. 

The  harbor  is  certainly  a secure  and  lovely  one.  It  is 
about  two  miles  in  length  by  one  in  width,  oval  in  shape,  and 
formed  by  two  long  narrow,  and  one  small  triangular  islands. 
To  this  basin  there  is  an  opening,  accessible  to  the  largest 
vessels,  on  the  southeastern  side.  It  is  also  open  to  the  sea 
for  some  distance  on  its  northwesterly  side,  but  a sand-bar  pre- 
vents any  but  small  boats  from  passing  through  this  channel. 

The  outside  appearance  of  these  islands  is  exceedingly 
bold,  rocky,  and  precipitous,  romantic  and  picturesque  in  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


283 


extreme — nearly  perpendicular  for  from  one  to  two  hundred 
feet ; afterwards  rising  into  peaks  six  or  eight  hundred  feet 
high ; then  gradually  sloping  inward  to  the  basin,  and  all 
forming  a large  natural  fort,  which  might  with  a trifling 
amount  of  labor  be  rendered  impregnable.  Doubtless  the 
whole  is  the  top  of  a sunken  volcano,  and  the  spot  where  we 
are  now  lying  at  anchor,  was  once  an  active,  burning  crater. 
On  account  of  the  steepness  of  the  outer  side  of  these  islands, 
only  the  inner,  or  those  that  surround  the  basin,  can  be 
brought  under  cultivation.  These  comprise  about  two-thirds 
of  the  entire  area.  The  arable  portions  are  in  an  exceed- 
ingly high  state  of  cultivation,  acquired  only  by  an  immense 
amount  of  labor,  for  the  land  is  naturally  very  rough  and 
stony.  They  are  divided  into  small,  rectangular  patches, 
extend  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  up  the  mountains’  sides, 
and  are  already  green  with  the  wheat  sown  last  fall.  There 
is  but  little  that  can  be  called  terracing,  such  as  is  seen  in 
China  and  Japan.  Wheat  and  millet  are  the  principal  pro- 
ducts. In  general  the  climate  and  vegetation  are  similar  to 
those  of  China  and  Japan. 

The  islands  being  separated  on  the  northwest  and  south- 
east, the  breezes  from  the  sea  have  free  access  to  the  basin, 
and  must  render  the  air  cool  and  healthy  in  summer,  thus 
making  the  place  an  admirable  location  for  a sanitarium. 

The  inhabitants  live  in  four  villages,  two  on  the  eastern, 
and  two  on  the  western  islands.  They  informed  us  that  they 
numbered  five  hundred  families,  and  reckoning  five  persons 
to  a family  this  gives  us  two  thousand  as  the  total  popula- 
tion— a rather  low  estimate.  Their  villages  are  very  com- 
pact, and  each  house  is  surrounded  by  a thick,  high  wall, 
of  small  stones,  laid  up  without  mortar  or  cement,  A door 
is  made  in  this  wall,  and  a small  house  built  near  it,  together 
forming  a sort  of  “ compound.”  • 

Their  houses  are  all  very  low,  and  have  walls  built  of  small 
stones,  or  a framework  of  wood  with  the  interstices  plastered 


284 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


with  clay.  The  roof  is  a coarse  thatching  of  straw,  fastened 
down  with  ropes  of  the  same  material.  The  rooms  have 
wooden  floors,  but  are  so  low  one  cannot  stand  up  in  them. 
Through  the  open  doors  and  a few  small  paper  windows,  a 
scanty  light  is  admitted — sufficient,  however,  to  show  a com- 
plete dearth  of  any  kind  of  furniture.  In  front  there  is  gen- 
erally a rude  piazza,  where  the  people  seem  to  pass  most  of 
their  time  when  at  home.  Their  streets  are  mostly  very 
crooked  and  filthy,  and  narrower  even  than  those  of  Chinese 
towns. 

They  all  dress  with  the  greatest  uniformity,  in  garments 
of  the  same  pattern  as  those  of  the  Chinese.  White  is  uni- 
versally worn,  and  since  we  have  been  in  Corea  we  have 
not  seen  a colored  article  of  clothing. 

The  government  is  patriarchal,  the  oldest  men  being  the 
heads  of  the  villages,  and  each  village  being  distinct  from  the 
others.  We  have  seen  no  animals  of  any  kind  during  our 
stay,  and  the  only  trees  in  sight  are  a few  small  pines.  Our 
intercourse  with  the  natives  was  carried  on  by  writing.  Mr. 
Corbett  acted  as  interpreter  and  scribe,  and  to  him  am  I in- 
debted for  such  facts  and  incidents  regarding  the  place  as  did 
not  come  under  my  personal  observation  during  my  rambles 
on  shore. 

I have  been  particular  in  describing  all  that  I have  seen 
and  heard  regarding  Corea,  as  I am  firmly  convinced  that 
shortly  it  will  be  a place  of  great  interest  to  foreigners ; and 
my  slight  acquaintance  with  the  country  and  people  has 
created  a strong  desire  to  prosecute  this  acquaintance  much 
further. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


285 


LETTER  XXIX. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai,  China, 
February  24,  1867. 

My  Dear  R. : 

We  arrived  here  the  5th,  having  made  the  passage  from 
Port  Hamilton,  Corea,  a distance  of  four  hundred  miles,  in 
forty  hours.  We  found  a mail  awaiting  our  arrival,  and 
were  gladdened  by  news  of  friends  at  home.  For  the  first 
time  since  we  have  been  in  China,  I have  not  heard  of  this 
mail’s  bringing  sad  news  to  any  one — one  and  all  wearing 
smiling  faces  as  they  perused  the  contents  of  letters  from 
friends  near  and  dear.  I would  that  it  could  ever  be  thus,  it 
would  make  all  so  much  happier  and  more  cheerful.  But  so 
long  as  the  world  stands  will  there  be  sad  partings  and 
losses,  nor  can  we  reasonably  expect  that  we  should  not  have 
our  share  of  all. 

When  we  left  Hong  Kong,  our  orders  were,  that  after  we 
had  fulfilled  our  mission  to  Corea,  we  should  return  to  Shang- 
hai, communicate  with  the  Admiral,  and  there  wait  his  orders. 
So  we  have  been  here  ever  since,  our  time  employed  with 
the  usual  port  routine  of  cleaning  up  the  ship,  exercising,  and 
taking  in  coal  and  provisions — yet  finding  a great  amount  of 
leisure  for  rest,  and  for  doing  whatever  else  our  minds  desire. 
Having  myself  little  or  no  work  to  perform,  and  not  being  in 
a mood  for  reading  or  study,  I have  spent  the  greater  portion 
of  my  time  when  not  on  duty,  on  shore,  with  one  or  two 
“ congenial  spirits  ” for  companions. 

Rambles  now  about  the  Chinese  quarter  present  us  with 
new  featuresm  their  customs, it  being  their  New  Year’s  holi- 
days. These  commenced  the  latter  part  of  last  month,  and 


286 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


properly  ended  on  the  10th  of  this,  in  what  is  called  the 
“ Feast  of  Lanterns,”  but  they  are  usually  kept  up  for  two  or 
three  weeks  more.  During  this  time  the  Chinese  perform  no 
labor  except  what  is  absolutely  necessary  ; but,  apparently 
forgetful  of  their  usual  thirst  for  gain,  give  themselves  up 
wholly  to  the  pursuit  of  pleasure. 

Upon  the  last  day  of  the  old  year  all  are  very  punctillious 
jn  balancing  their  accounts  and  settling  the  debts  of  the  year, 
saying  that  they  could  not  enjoy  the  festivities  unless  they 
had  previously  done  so. 

A custom  prevalent  at  this  season  of  the  year  deserves 
special  notice,  and  almost  seems  to  have  been  derived  from 
the  command  found  in  Deut.  vi : 9.  The  entrance  to  every 
Chinese  dwelling  has  depicted  on  the  door  and  doorposts,  as 
well  as  upon  the  cross-beams  above,  two  or  more  antithetical 
sentences,  chosen  with  great  care  from  their  most  approved 
writings.  The  New  Year’s  holidays  are  the  period  for  re- 
moving the  old  sentences  and  substituting  new  ones  in  their 
places.  The  paper  upon  which  these  sentences  are  written 
is  of  various  colors,  but  the  general  color  is  a deep  red. 
White  paper  denotes  that  the  inmates  have  lost  a parent 
during  the  past  year.  The  second  year’s  mourning  requires 
blue  for  a father,  yellow  for  a mother,  and  carnation  for  a 
grandparent.  A light  red  indicates  the  third  year’s  mourn- 
ing, after  which  the  dark  red  is  again  resumed. 

During  the  entire  holiday  season  the  shops  and  houses  are 
all  open — fitted  up  for  the  new  year’s  callers.  Those  that 
we  visited  had  the  walls  hung  round  with  favorite  views, 
which  are  only  used  during  these  holidays,  and  which  are 
then  laid  away  till  they  come  round  again.  At  the  farther 
extremity  of  the  room  stood  a table  upon  which  were  placed 
the  family  idols  and  the  ancestral  tablets.  Upon  another 
were  various  adornments  and  refreshments,  and  near  it  the 
host  was  seated.  One  calls — he  is  met  at  the  door  by  the 
host,  greetings  are  exchanged,  and  then  he  is  led  to  a seat ; 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


287 


he  then  partakes  of  some  refreshments,  chats  a few  minutes, 
and  after  exchanging  greetings  again,  he  passes  out. 

In  walking  through  the  streets  you  would  think  that  the 
whole  Chinese  world  was  out  of  doors,  not  hurrying  along 
intent  upon  their  business,  but  leisurely  promenading,  with  a 
smile  and  greeting  for  all.  They  appear  to  have  wholly 
given  themselves  up  to  enjoyment,  and  to  have  forgotten  that 
there  is  in  the  world  a Fankwei  whom  by  their  religion  it  is 
their  first  and  highest  duty  and  pleasure  to  cheat,  if  no  more 
than  to  the  value  of  a single  “ cash.”  All  were  dressed  in 
their  very  best  costumes,  and  there  was  a profusion  of  the 
richest  and  most  costly  silks,  satins,  and  furs — some  valued 
as  high  as  two  or  three  thousand  dollars.  Such  a costume 
will  last  a man  a lifetime,  and  as  there  is  no  changing  of 
fashion,  he  does  not  hesitate  to  put  one-third  or  one-half  of 
his  fortune  upon  his  back. 

In  their  dress,  however,  the  Chinese  are  very  anxious  to 
economize  the  soil.  Barrows  says,  u that  an  acre  of  cotton 
will  clothe  two  or  three  hundred  persons,”  and  as  the  cotton 
can  be  planted  between  the  rice  crops,  and  thus  vary  the 
productions  and  relieve  the  soil,  they  prefer  such  clothing  as 
they  can  raise  at  the  least  expense  of  ground  and  labor.  Cot- 
ton is  thus  the  most  common  article  of  clothing  worn — gar- 
ments of  silk,  satins,  and  furs,  being  substituted  for  it  only 
on  great  occasions. 

A few  days  ago  we  had  a visit  from  two  French  Catholic 
missionaries, — the  sole  survivors  of  the  late  massacre  of 
missionaries  and  Christians  here.  While  we  were  at  Chefoo 
last  fall  a boat  came  in  there  from  Corea,  bearing  these  same 
two  missionaries,  who  then  reported  the  massacre  that  had 
taken  place.  They  proceeded  to  Shanghai,  and  communi- 
cated the  intelligence  to  Admiral  Rosa,  commanding  the 
French  squadron  in  these  waters.  The  French  are  ever 
prompt  and  ready  to  avenge  any  wrongs  done  to  their  religion 
or  to  its  ministers,  and  he,  with  characteristic  vigor,  immedi- 


288 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


ately  organized  a force  and  proceeded  to  Corea.  He  left 
Yokaliama  with  his  squadron  in  the  latter  part  of  August, 
but  the  expedition  proved  to  be  an  unsuccessful  one,  the 
Coreans  repulsing  the  French  with  considerable  loss.  They 
now  have  the  coast  blockaded,  and  are  making  preparations 
for  another  campaign, — this  time  with  a greater  force. 

Besides  my  rambles  on  shore,  I have  done  an  immense 
amount  of  ship-visiting  since  we  haye  been  in  Shanghai  this 
time,  going  on  board  of  the  men-of-war  of  the  different  na- 
tionalities, and  on  three  or  four  American  merchantmen.  Of 
the  former,  the  pleasantest  and  most  interesting  visit  was  to 
the  Prussian  Frigate  Yineta.  She  is  a clumsy-looking,  old- 
fashioned,  single-banked  frigate,  but  everything  about  her 
was  so  scrupulously  neat  and  clean,  and  her  crew  so  intelli- 
gent and  courteous,  that  one  could  but  enjoy  a visit  there. 

Of  the  latter  I formed  some  very  pleasant  acquaintances 
in  the  officers  and  their  families,  and  I have  enjoyed  myself 
very  much  in  the  numerous  visits  that  I have  made.  We 
leave  here  to-morrow  for  our  second  trip  up  the  Yang-tse- 
kiang,  and,  this  time,  I hope  that  it  will  be  without  any  of 
those  sad  events  which  so  painfully  characterized  our  former 


one. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


289 


LETTER  XXX. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hankow,  China,) 
March  13th,  1867.  f 

My  Dear  R. : 

Six  hundred  miles  into  the  interior  of  China!  As  far 
away  from  salt  water  as  those  living  in  Ohio ! If  sight-see- 
ing was  our  only  object  in  view,  we  could  not  be  much  more 
favored. 

The  summary  of  places  we  have  visited  and  sights  we 
have  seen  during  the  past  year,  is  a very  varied,  extensive, 
and  interesting  one.  We  have  twice  been  the  entire  length 
of  the  coast  of  China,  and  several  times  over  large  portions 
of  it,  visiting  all  but  two  or  three  of  its  open  ports,  and  many 
that  are  not  yet  opened  to  foreign  intercourse  ; been  in  many 
of  its  cities  and  towns,  and  up  several  of  its  rivers ; seen  its 
great  wonders,  in  fact,  everything  worthy  of  note,  getting  a 
good  insight  into  the  appearance,  manner,  and  customs  of  its 
inhabitants ; visited  the  principal  places  in  Japan — seeing 
nearly  everything  worthy  of  note  there,  and  getting  an  insight 
into  the  appearance,  manners,  and  customs  of  the  Japanese ; 
passed  through  the  inland  sea  (a  trip  in  itself  worth  no  small 
sum  to  sight-seers)  ; explored  somewhat  the  much  talked-of, 
and,  at  present,  interesting  Corea ; and,  at  last,  we  find  our- 
selves six  hundred  miles  in  the  interior  of  China. 

The  weather  is  quite  warm  for  this  season  of  the  year,  but 
far  different  from  what  it  was  upon  our  trip  last  summer. 
On  the  whole,  it  is  as  pleasant  as  we  could  expect,  and  the 
trip  has  been  all  that  one  could  have  desired.  All  of  our 
traveling  has  been  done  in  the  day-time,  anchoring  every 
night,  and,  as  the  weather  has  been  clear  and  pleasant  all  of 


290 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  time  since  leaving  Shanghai,  every  opportunity  has  been 
afforded  for  sight-seeing 

We  left  Shanghai  Monday  afternoon,  February  25th,  un- 
der the  charge  of  the  captain  of  the  Fire-Queen,  with  Dr. 
Toute  (who  has  been  appointed  American  consul  at  Hankow) 
and  an  English  marine,  as  passengers.  We  arrived  at  Chin- 
kiang  the  27th,  and  there  remained  two  days,  receiving 
visits  from  the  consul  and  family,  and  also  from  several  of 
the  citizens  from  shore.  With  the  exception  of  the  weather 
we  found  that  little  change  had  taken  place  since  we  were 
there  before. 

In  passing  by  the  point  where  the  Grand  Canal  connects 
with  the  Yang-tse,  the  engines  were  stopped  and  we  had  a 
good  view  of  China’s  second  greatest  wonder.  I think  that 
the  Grand  Canal,  or  Chah-ho  (i.  e .,  river  of  Flood-gates), 
called,  also,  Yung-ho  {i.  e.,  Transit  river),  in  many  respects 
reflects  more  credit  upon  its  constructor  than  the  Great  Wall, 
and,  at  the  time  it  was  constructed,  it  excelled  all  other  works 
in  usefulness.  By  means  of  its  connection  with  the  rivers, 
there  is  a greater  inland  communication  than  any  other 
country  possesses.  A large  portion  of  the  canal  is  con- 
structed by  high  banks  an  hundred  feet  or  more  in  width, 
and  faced  with  stone.  Such  was  that  which  we  saw.  Stretch- 
ing along  its  banks  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  were  vil- 
lages, or  rather  one  continuous  city,  so  close  are  the  villages 
to  each  other,  and  crowding  the  canal  were  innumerable 
small  craft. 

After  leaving  Chinkiang  we  anchored  six  times  before 
arriving  at  Hankow,  arriving  here  the  6th,  but  as  we  made 
no  lengthy  stay  at  any  point,  I will  leave  particular  descrip- 
tions until  we  go  down,  when  we  expect  to  call  at  all  the  prin- 
cipal places,  and  will  now  confine  myself  to  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the  country. 

For  the  entire  distance  cities  and  walled  towns  are  very 
numerous,  and  it  is  estimated  that  we  passed  within  sight  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


291 


more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  them.  A great  same- 
ness exists  in  all.  A stone  wall  encloses  all  towns  of  any 
size,  and  frequently  the  suburbs  are  larger  than  their  enciente. 
The  streets  are  not  usually  over  six  or  eight  feet  in  width, 
but  the  lowness  of  the  houses  makes  them  appear  less  like 
mere  alley-ways  than  they  would  in  western  cities.  Villages 
have  a pleasant  appearance,  viewed  at  a distance,  usually 
embowered  in  trees,  among  which  the  whitewashed  houses 
look  prettily. 

The  Chinese  delight  in  light  and  ornamental  architecture, 
and  in  this  they  display  great  taste.  They  are  also  very 
skillful  in  laying  out  their  grounds,  and  improving  all  the  nat- 
ural features  of  the  landscape.  Their  summer  villas,  gener- 
ally on  the  banks  of  some  stream  (they  are  very  numerous 
on  the  Yang-tse)  or  on  the  border  of  a picturesque  lake,  are 
sometimes  extremely  fanciful,  even  bordering  on  the  gro- 
tesque ; but  often  delightfully  airy,  comfortable,  and  luxur- 
ious. The  situation  is  almost  always  skillfully  chosen  and 
artistically  improved.  The  top  of  some  rugged  eminence, 
the  slope  of  a jagged  rock,  or  a wooded  island  is  sure  to  be 
occupied  by  some  fairy-like  or  fantastic  structure,  surrounded 
with  flower-gardens  and  shrub-trees,  with  arbors  and  look- 
outs perched  on  the  prominent  points  or  nestled  in  the  quietest 
nooks. 

These  may  be  seen  in  almost  every  part  of  China,  scat- 
tered here  and  there ; but  the  scenery  at  intervals  along  the 
banks  of  the  Yang-tse  river,  near  large  cities,  may  well  be 
represented  as  perfectly  elysian.  The  wealthy  mandarins 
have  taken  up  every  spot  of  land  down  to  the  water’s  edge, 
and  appropriated  them  for  villas,  palaces,  temples,  pleasure- 
grounds  and  gardens.  The  water,  too,  may  be  seen  thronged, 
day  and  night,  with  barges  and  pleasure-boats  of  every  grade. 

On  the  lowlands  rice  is  almost  universally  cultivated.  The 
terrace  cultivation  renders  the  acclivities  of  many  of  the 
hills  beautiful  in  the  highest  degree.  The  finest  and  most 
pleasing  example  of  the  terrace  cultivation  may  be  seen  where 


292 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


a valley  or  wide  ravine  runs  up  to  the  top  of  a range  of  hills, 
growing  narrower  as  it  ascends,  so  that,  in  the  distance,  it 
looks  like  a mammoth  staircase  for  the  gods.  On  these  ter- 
races, as  well  as  on  the  unterraced  acclivities  of  the  hills, 
grains  and  vegetables  are  cultivated ; sometimes  rice  is  grown 
on  them,  and  by  means  of  reservoirs  at  the  tops,  the  terraces 
are  flooded  by  the  water  let  down  from  them. 

And  yet  for  all  that  I have  said,  elegance  or  ornament, 
orderly  arrangement  or  grandeur  of  design,  cleanliness  or 
comfort  are  almost  unknown  in  Chinese  houses,  cities  or  gar- 
dens. Everywhere  the  finest  and  most  commanding  situa- 
tions are  chosen  for  temples  or  pagodas,  which  are  not  only 
the  abode  of  priests  and  senseless  idols,  but  also  serve  for 
inns,  theatres,  etc.  A lofty  solitary  pagoda,  an  extensive 
temple  shaded  by  trees  in  the  opening  of  a vale  or  on  a hill- 
side, or  boats  moving  in  every  direction  through  narrow 
creeks  or  on  broad  streams,  are  some  of  the  peculiar  linea- 
ments of  Chinese  scenery.  No  imposing  mansions  are  found 
on  the  skirts  of  a town  ; no  tapering  spire  pointing  out  the  vil- 
lage church ; nor  towers,  pillars,  domes,  or  steeples  in  the 
cities,  pointing  out  the  public  buildings,  rise  above  the  walls 
or  the  low  level  of  tiled  roofs.  No  meadows  or  pastures 
containing  herds  and  flocks  are  seen  upon  the  hill-tops  of 
China,  nor  are  coaches  or  railroad-cars  ever  observed  hurry- 
ing across  its  landscape. 

The  right  bank  of  the  river  is  more  picturesque  than  the 
left,  on  account  of  the  chains  of  hills  rising  behind  each 
other,  covered  with  rich  and  varied  foliage,  and  in  many  places 
sweeping  down  to  the  banks  of  the  stream.  Nearly  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach  on  the  left  bank,  and  also  in  many  places 
on  the  right,  the  land  is  low  and  level  and  devoted  to  the 
culture  of  rice.  The  farther  we  proceeded  up  the  river  the 
more  varied  and  picturesque  we  found  the  scenery,  and  the 
villages  and  towns  appeared  cleaner  and  more  thrifty.  The 
width  of  the  river  varies  greatly,  in  some  places  being  two 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


293 


or  three  miles,  and  in  others  narrowing  down  to  less  than 
half  a mile.  It  is  now  at  the  time  of  high  water,  and  many 
places  that  we  passed  over,  the  pilot  says,  in  the  course  of  the 
summer  will  be  dry  land. 

One  new  feature  in  Chinese  boat  life  we  noticed  in  our 
passage  up  the  river,  in  the  large  rafts  floating  upon  it  covered 
with  earth  and  having  grain  and  vegetables  growing ; while 
in  one  corner  of  each  would  be  seen  a snug  little  house. 
Some  of  these  floating  farms  would  have  half  an  acre  of 
good  land  upon  each,  from  which  sufficient  was  raised  to  sup- 
port a large  family. 

We  passed,  on  our  way  up,  several  high,  conical-shaped 
islands  in  the  river,  apparently  inaccessible  on  every  side,  but 
whose  summits  were  crowned  by  exceedingly  picturesquely 
situated  temples  and  pavilions. 

Hankow  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  on  a low 
plain  about  forty  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  water. 
There  is  said  to  be  fifty-seven  feet  difference  between  the 
high  and  low  water  marks,  and  that  sometimes  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  city  go  about  the  streets  in  boats.  I was  sur- 
prised to  find  so  much  of  a foreign  settlement  here,  when  it 
is  hardly  five  years  since  the  first  house  was  built.  It  is 
about  as  large  as  the  English  Concession  at  Shanghai,  which, 
in  general  appearance,  it  closely  resembles.  Extending 
along  in  front  is  a fine  wide  “ Bund,”  which,  as  we  came  up, 
was  well  lined  with  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  were  out  for 
an  evening  promenade  in  accordance  with  their  daily  custom. 

The  town  is  upwards  of  one  and  one-half  miles  in  length, 
and  one  in  width,  and  never  did  I see  a city  with  houses  so 
uniform  and  so  uniformly  first-class  as  they  are  here.  Most 
of  them  are  two  stories  high,  built  of  brick  and  painted. 
The  streets  are  wide,  and  the  town  is  very  neatly  and  regu- 
larly laid  out. 

Above  this,  and  joined  to  it,  is  the  Chinese  quarter,  about 
one  and  one-half  times  as  large  as  the  foreign.  Extending 


294 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


around  all  but  the  river  side  of  both  sections  is  a wall  and 
moat,  constructed  only  two  years  ago.  The  wall  is  about 
thirty  feet  high,  fifteen  feet  thick  with  a sloping,  earthern 
embankment  thrown  up  against  it  on  the  inside,  and  is  the 
only  good  defense  that  I have  seen  in  China.  Upon  the  top 
cannon  are  mounted,  and  the  tents  of  the  garrison  or  guard 
are  pitched  along  its  entire  length.  Outside  the  walls,  about 
seven  miles  distant,  is  another  detachment  of  Imperial  troops, 
numbering  ten  thousand.  These  are  necessary  to  ward  off 
the  attacks  of  the  rebels  who  are  very  numerous  in  this 
province. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  city  the  Han  river,  a stream 
about  one-third  of  a mile  in  width,  empties  into  the  Yang-tse, 
and  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Han  is  the  small,  walled 
town  of  Han-yang.  Across  the  Yang-tse  from  the  last  men- 
tioned city  is  the  large,  walled-city  Wuchang — the  capital  of 
the  province  of  Huph,  and  the  residence  of  the  military  gov- 
ernor. It  is  said  that  “ these  three  cities  probably  present, 
with  the  shipping  before  them,  the  largest  assemblage  of 
houses  and  shipping,  inhabitants  and  sailors,  to  be  found  any- 
where in  the  world.”  The  number  of  junks  of  the  largest 
class  is  estimated  at  ten  thousand,  while  the  smaller  craft 
number  several  times  that. 

One  day  after  a ramble  about  Hankow  with  a friend,  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  banks  of  the  Han,  about  a mile  above 
the  point  where  it  empties  into  the  Yang-tse.  A glance  up 
and  down  the  river  presented  us  with  a scene  of  the  greatest 
animation.  In  both  directions  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
the  river  was  one  living  mass  of  boats.  I had  thought  that 
the  scenes  in  boat  life  in  the  river  about  Canton  were  almost 
too  marvelous  for  narration,  but  those  would  bear  no  com- 
parison with  the  one  before  us,  and,  in  my  mind  I could  think 
of  no  more  fitting  comparison  than  that  of  a swarm  of  bees. 

Out  of  curiosity  we  took  a sampan  and  started  down  the 
river,  and  there  found  ourselves  in  a business  thoroughfare, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


295 


exceeding  in  noise,  bustle,  and  confusion,  any  of  our  large 
cities. 

One  that  has  ever  been  in  the  midst  of  a frightened  mul- 
titude endeavoring  to  escape  from  some  imminent  danger, 
can  form  some  idea  of  the  situation  in  which  we  found  our- 
selves. The  river  was  fairly  choked  by  the  dense  mass 
of  junks  and  smaller  craft  of  every  size,  form,  and  hue,  and 
engaged  in  almost  every  conceivable  occupation.  There 
were  shops,  restaurants,  silk  lacquer-wares,  and  ivory  stores  ; 
cobblers,  menders  of  old  brass,  iron,  and  chinaware  ; fruit  and 
market  stalls,  and  flower  boats,  besides  those  bearing  burdens 
and  passengers ; then  the  talking,  shouting,  and  fighting  of 
the  men,  the  shrieks  and  cries  of  the  women  and  children, 
and  the  crashing  of  boats,  were  such,  that  in  comparison 
Babel  would  appear  as  quiet  as  an  English  grammar  school. 

In  such  a crowded  and  busy  thoroughfare,  there  seems  to 
be  but  one  law  of  the  road,  and  that  is,  that  the  smaller  boats 
keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  larger  ones,  or  else  suffer  the 
consequences.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  giving  half  of  the 
way.  If  a boat  is  upset  no  attention  is  paid  to  it  by  any  one, 
but  the  occupants  are  left  to  right  their  craft  and  look  out  for 
themselves.  Several  times  our  boat  was  nearly  upset  by 
larger  ones,  but  not  the  slightest  attention  was  paid  to  us,  fur- 
ther than  a smothered  curse  for  being  in  the  way.  Once 
when  an  old  woman’s  market  boat  was  upset  by  ours,  our 
boatman  was  passing  on  without  the  least  attention  to  the  ac- 
cident, and  appeared  to  be  much  surprised  and  very  indignant 
when  we  compelled  him  to  turn  back  and  assist  her  in  right- 
ing her  boat  and  collecting  her  wares.  F ull  an  hour  and  a 

half  were  we  in  proceeding  this  mile,  and  when  we  reached 
the  quiet  waters  of  the  Yang-tse  we  felt  as  if  we  had  just  es- 
caped from  some  desperate  encounter  for  life. 

In  crossing  the  river  at  Wuchang  we  were  overtaken  by 
a storm  which  well  nigh  swamped  our  boat,  and  drenched  us 
to  the  skin.  Ascending  a short  flight  of  stone  steps  from  the 


296 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


landing,  we  fonnd  ourselves  on  a prettily  flagged  Bund, 
about  thirty  yards  wide  in  front  of  the  city  walls.  These  are 
very  massive,  full  forty  feet  in  height  and  from  thirty  to  fifty 
feet  thick,  built  of  huge  blocks  of  granite,  some  of  which 
would  measure  twenty  feet  in  length,  by  ten  in  width  and 
thickness.  I wonder  where  they  got  the  power  to  move  or 
place  them  ! Upon  the  top  cannon  are  mounted  and  guards 
armed  with  spears,  swords,  and  bows  and  arrows,  are  sta- 
tioned. The  walls  are  five  miles  in  circumference,  and  the 
city  does  not  differ  in  general  appearance  from  other  cities 
which  I have  visited.  The  inhabitants  seem  to  be  if  possi- 
ble rather  more  primitive  in  their  manners  and  habits, 
and  evidently  regard  Europeans  with  the  greatest  wonder 
and  curiosity.  Everywhere  that  we  went  we  were  followed 
by  a great  crowd  of  both  sexes,  and  of  all  ages,  and  occa- 
sionally the  muttered  word  “ Fankwei  ” could  be  heard. 

Two  or  three  days  ago  the  crew  of  an  English  and  a 
French  Gunboat,  together  with  our  own  men,  engaged  in  a 
variety  of  athletic  sports  on  shore,  which  were  witnessed  by 
nearly  all  of  the  European  residents  and  by  an  immense 
crowd  of  Chinamen.  The  English  took  the  first  prize  in 
running  and  took  the  watch  from  the  top  of  the  pole ; the 
French  excelled  in  leaping,  took  the  prize  in  the  sack  race, 
and  one  little  boy  with  his  mouth  caught  the  greased  pig  by 
the  tail ; the  Americans  were  victorious  in  the  hurdle-race, 
in  throwing  the  cricket  ball  and  putting  the  shot,  and  took 
the  second  prize  in  running.  It  was  a beautiful  day,  every- 
thing passed  off  pleasantly  and  in  good  order,  and  one  and 
all  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves  very  much.  To-morrow 
morning  we  start  down  the  river  towards  Shanghai  again. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


297 


LETTER  XXXI. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai,  China,) 
April  2d,  1867.  j 

Mr  Dear  R.: 

The  right  bank  of  the  river  from  Hankow  to  Kieukiang — 
a distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  miles,  (and,  indeed 
for  some  distance  below)  was  lined  with  thousands  and 
thousands  of  men,  women  and  children,  with  their  movable 
effects — refugees  from  depredatory  excursions  of  rebels  to 
the  towns  and  villages  on  the  opposite  bank,  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  day  we  left  Hankow,  and  but  a short  distance 
above  Kieukiang,  I counted  no  less  than  eighteen  large  cities 
and  towns  in  flames,  while  the  glare  of  many  more  could  be 
seen  in  the  distance.  At  those  near  us  the  rebels -could  be 
plainly  seen  engaged  in  their  nefarious  work,  and  the  shrieks 
and  cries  of  their  unfortunate  victims  distinctly  heard. 

The  founders,  as  it  were,  of  this  band,  were  a number  of 
unpaid  soldiers  who  commenced  a series  of  depredations  out 
of  revenge.  Frcm  time  to  time  they  have  received  large 
additions  in  escaped  convicts,  outlaws,  and  adventurers,  until 
now  they  have  become  a formidable  body,  and  are  dignified 
by  the  title  of  rebels, — “ Land  pirates  ” would  be  a more  ap- 
propriate name  ; for  they  have  no  revolution  in  view,  and 
belong  to  no  especial  party,  but  commit  their  depredations 
alike  upon  all  that  come  in  their  way — plundering  and  burn- 
ing towns  and  villages  and  murdering  all  but  the  able-bodied 
men,  whom  they  compel  to  join  them.  They  are  nearly  all 
mounted,  well-armed,  and  have  many  European  adventurers 
among  them  as  leaders.  I will  mention  an  incident  of  which 
I was  a witness  and  which  will  convey  some  idea  of  their 
14 


298 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


cruelty.  A junk  load  of  refugees  was  just  preparing  to  cross 
over  to  the  other  side  of  the  river  from  one  of  the  burn- 
ing cities,  when  they  were  surprised  by  a body  of  these  hu- 
man fiends,  and  every  one  of  the  number  brutally  murdered. 
The  junk  was  then  plundered  and  set  on  fire.  Thus  far 
these  marauders  have  confined  their  depredations  to  the  left 
bank  of  the  river ; but  they  are  rapidly  increasing  in  num- 
ber, and  flushed  with  their  recent  successes,  there  is  no  know- 
ing what  they  will  do  next. 

We  intended  to  make  but  a short  stay  at  Kieukiang, 
but  the  foreign  residents,  apprehensive  of  a raid  from  the 
rebels,  so  earnestly  # requested  Captain  Shufeldt  to  remain, 
that  he  finally  concluded  to  do  so,  and  our  stay  was  lengthened 
out  to  the  23d,  when  we  were  relieved  by  an  English  gun- 
boat. During  the  entire  time  immense  crowds  of  refugees 
were  constantly  arriving,  and  it  was  estimated  that  there  were 
more  than  fifty  thousand  of  them  encamped  about  the  city 
walls.  The  many  strange,  sad,  and  even  amusing  incidents 
connected  with  the  arrival  and  disposition  of  these  refugees, 
the  movements  of  the  Imperial  troops,  and  the  patroling  of  the 
river  by  the  Chinese  gunboats,  furnished  us  an  abundance  of 
excitement. 

The  glare  of  burning  villages  could  be  seen  nearer  and 
nearer  each  night,  and  before  we  left  the  marauders  had  ap- 
proached within  six  miles  of  the  city.  There  they  made  a 
halt  and  seemed  undecided  what  to  do  next.  I have  not  the 
remotest  idea  that  they  will  venture  to  make  an  attack  upon 
the  city,  so  long  as  they  know  that  there  is  a well  organized 
and  armed  body  of  Europeans  to  defend  it.  There  are  up- 
wards of  two  thousand  Imperial  troops  garrisoning  the  city 
walls,  but  they  are  worth  absolutely  nothing ; for  besides  be- 
ing poorly  armed  and  equipped,  and  without  any  discipline, 
they  lack  the  one  thing  essential  to  a good  soldier — courage. 
In  fact  they  are  the  most  abject  cowards  imaginable.  With 
a thousand  well  armed  European  or  American  soldiers,  one 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


299 


might  march  from  one  end  of  China  to  another  in  spite  of 
all  that  the  Chinese  could  do  to  oppose  them. 

It  was  very  amusing  to  take  note  of  the  movements  of  the 
Imperialists — both  the  land  and  the  naval  forces.  The  gun- 
boats in  great  numbers  were  constantly  moving  up  and  down 
the  river,  beating  gongs  and  firing  blank  cartridges  from  their 
single  cannon  in  the  bow.  Similar  movements  might  be  ob- 
served among  the  land  forces — the  same  beating  of  gongs 
and  firing  of  guns,  with  the  addition  of  a great  display  of 
flags,  and  of  lights  when  the  “ grand  rounds  ” of  the  city  and 
encampments  were  made  in  the  night-time.  They  intended 
to  keep  entirely  aloof  from  all  danger,  and  usually  did 
so,  but,  one  day  when  a body  of  them  were  patroling  the 
river  bank  opposite  the  city,  they  unexpectedly  encountered 
a body  of  rebels,  and,  as  there  was  no  means  of  avoiding  it, 
battle  was  joined  with  them.  This  was  certainly  the  most 
amusing  thing  which  I saw  in  China,  surpassing  in  noise  and 
gesticulation  any  theatrical  performance,  but  bearing  thereto 
a most  striking  resemblance. 

The  majority  of  the  combatants  sat  down  to  drink  tea  and 
smoke  their  pipes,  while  the  remainder,  relieving  one  another 
from  time  to  time,  kept  up  a continual  beating  of  gongs  and 
tom-toms,  firing  of  jingals,  shouting,  and  waving  of  flags 
and  banners.  The  contending  armies  were  fully  one-fourth 
of  a mile  apart,  and  during  the  entire  engagement  not  one 
was  killed  on  either  side.  At  last,  the  imperialists,  having 
displayed  the  greatest  number  of  flags  and  made  the  most 
noise,  were  supposed  to  win  the  victory,  for  the  rebels  re- 
treated in  the  wildest  confusion,  after  an  engagement  of  about 
two  hours.  The  imperialists  immediately  pursued,  and  put 
to  death  all  the  stragglers  that  fell  into  their  hands,  the  num- 
ber of  these  being  counted  as  the  number  killed  in  battle. 
The  greatest  excitement  prevailed  throughout  the  city  and 
encampment  during  the  progress  of  this  engagement,  and  the 
wildest  enthusiasm  was  manifested  when  the  result  became 


300 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


known.  I should  not  wonder  if  it  was  dramatized,  and  the 
whole  recorded  as  a brilliant  feat  of  arms.  It  is  said  by 
those  of  good  authority  that  this  is  a fair  sample  of  the  Chi- 
nese mode  of  warfare. 

A few  words  now  about  Kiukiang,  and  then  we  will  go 
down  the  river  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  Nankin, 
our  next  stopping  place.  Kiukiang  consists  of  a large  walled 
Chinese  town,  some  four  miles  in  circuit,  with  a small  Euro- 
pean town  at  its  upper  side,  all  located  on  a beautiful  and  fer- 
tile plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  The  town  enclosed 
within  the  walls  is  old  and  fast  going  to  decay,  but  the  suburbs 
are  surpassed  by  few  cities  we  have  visited  in  the  wideness 
of  the  streets,  the  size  of  the  buildings,  and  the  richness  and 
variety  of  articles  exposed  for  sale  in  the  shops.  The  foreign 
section  numbers  but  few  houses  as  yet,  but  it  is  fast  growing. 
The  chief  exports  are  porcelain -ware  and  tea,  Kiukiang  being 
the  center  of  the  most  noted  districts  in  China  for  the  man- 
ufacture of  the  one  and  the  growth  of  the  other. 

The  manufacture  of  porcelain  commenced  with  the  Tang 
dynasty,  A.  D.  630,  and  although  of  late  the  Europeans  have 
made  advances  in  the  whiteness  of  their  porcelain,  and  the 
brilliancy  of  their  colors,  to  the  Chinese  are  we  indebted  for 
a knowledge  of  the  art,  and,  even  now,  they  excel  in  the 
compactness  of  the  material  and  the  fineness  of  the  ware. 

A visit  to  a porcelain  manufactory  presents  one  with  much 
of  interest.  First  we  notice  a man  preparing  the  paste  from 
pih-tun , “ white  clay.”  This  is  done  by  mixing  the  clay 
with  a powder,  a bluish-white  stone,  to  which  is  added  the 
glaze-ashes,  prepared  from  a kind  of  fern — all  forming  a thick 
paste.  Another  workman,  by  means  of  a lathe,  fashions  this 
into  cups,  vases,  or  such  article  as  may  be  required,  and  then 
fits  it  to  the  mold.  The  excrescences  are  pounded  to  a milky 
consistency,  and  used  by  the  painters,  to  whom  the  work  next 
passes.  Here  we  see  two  more  employed,  one  engaged  in 
drawing  the  outline,  and  the  other  in  putting  on  the  colors. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


301 


The  glazier  sometimes  does  his  work  by  means  of  a brush, 
but  it  is  now  nearly  superceded  by  the  blow-pipe.  This  con- 
sists of  a tube  about  nine  inches  in  length,  covered  at  the 
end  by  a thin  gauze,  through  which  the  workman  blows  a 
certain  number  of  times,  according  to  the  size  of  the  vessel 
or  the  consistency  of  the  varnish.  After  the  article  has  been 
committed  to  the  furnace  and  burned  for  some  time,  the 
process  is  finished,  and  the  ware  ready  for  packing  and 
shipment. 

China  has  not  only  furnished  us  with  the  cups,  but  also 
with  the  tea.  Its  first  use  is  not  known  definitely,  but  was 
at  a very  early  period.  Before  coming  to  China  I was  wont 
to  hear  that  the  only  difference  between  green  and  black  teas 
was,  that  the  former  was  dried  on  copper  plates,  and  the  lat- 
ter on  iron  ones.  This  is  not  so,  for  both  are  dried  in  earthen 
basins,  and  the  process  I have  described  to  you  in  a pre- 
vious letter.  To  those  who  have  passed  any  great  length  of 
time  here,  there  is  no  doubt  that  they  are  produced  from 
entirely  distinct  shrubs,  and  in  different  parts  of  the  country. 
However,  there  are  many  persons  who  are  inclined  to  believe 
that  they  are  both  produced  from  the  same  shrub  ; that  the 
difference  is  owing  in  a great  measure  to  the  stage  of  the  leaf 
when  it  is  picked,  to  the  difference  of  climate,  and  to  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  prepared.  Be  it  as  it  may,  there  are 
in  all  thirteen  kinds  of  tea — seven  of  black  and  six  of  green — 
occasioned  by  the  causes  just  mentioned.  The  process  of 
making  tea  has  many  times  been  minutely  delineated  in  pic- 
tures, and  described  in  books,  but  best  authorities  here  in 
China  say  that  the  exact  manipulations  of  the  leaf  is  a secret 
known  only  by  the  Chinese. 

A few  days  ago  I was  shown  a small  quantity  of  tea  which 
cost  fifty  taels  (sixty-six  dollars)  per  pound.  This  may  seem 
incredible  to  you,  but  when  I have  explained  the  matter  a 
little  you  will  not  wonder  so  much.  The  main  cause  of  dif- 
ference between  the  different  brands  of  the  same  kind  of  tea 


302  CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 

is  owing  to  adaptation  of  the  soil  and  the  age  of  the  leaf 
when  picked.  This  brand  of  tea  (green)  is  produced  on  a 
plantation  near  Nankin,  and  can  be  grown  nowhere  else  in 
China.  The  leaves  are  picked  immediately  after  the  plant 
is  out  of  blossom,  and  the  leaves  when  cured  are  as  small 
as  the  finest  gunpowder.  It  is  estimated  that  leaves  sufficient 
to  produce  one  pound  of  this  tea,  would  make  over  thirty 
pounds  if  allowed  to  mature.  It  is  all  for  the  exclusive  use 
of  the  Emperor  and  Governors  of  Provinces ; unless  it 
might  be  in  a case  like  this,  where  one  is  allowed  to  obtain 
a small  quantity,  and  is  a rare  token  of  great  favor.  The 
usual  price  here  for  the  choicest  brands  of  black  tea  is  fifteen 
cents  per  pound,  and  green  tea  seventeen  cents. 

Kiangning-foo,  better  known  to  you  as  Nankin,  is  the  cap- 
ital of  the  province  of  Kiangsee.  It  was  once  the  most 
celebrated  city  in  the  Empire  in  regard  to  the  extent  of  its 
buildings  and  the  character  of  its  inhabitants.  There  are 
now  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  an  outer  wall,  which  has  been 
traced  for  thirty-five  miles,  but  how  much  of  this  space  was 
Occupied  by  houses,  is  not  known.  The  walls  are  now  only 
about  half  as  extensive  as  formerly,  and  hardly  one-half  of 
the  space  enclosed  by  them  is  occupied  by  houses. 

From  where  we  lay  at  anchor  I landed  at  a small  walled 
village  in  front  of  the  town,  near  which  are  three  or  four 
houses  occupied  by  foreigners,  the  only  ones  at  Nankin.  The 
city  lies  back  from  the  water  about  two  miles,  and  is  over- 
looked by  high  hills  on  the  east,  from  which  I had  a good 
view  of  it.  The  northern,  or  river  wall,  is  formed  by  a thick 
embankment  thrown  up  against  and  overtopping  a high  stone 
wall,  and  this  is  also  true  of  the  western  face.  The  others 
are  the  customary  brick  walls,  but  of  uncommon  height  and 
thickness.  On  the  eastern  face  are  two  gates,  and  on  the 
northern  two.  The  city  contains  an  estimated  population  of 
450,000,  all  of  whom  reside  within  the  walls. 

The  land  towards  the  river  is  marshy,  and  the  approaches 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


303 


to  the  gates  are  over  stone  causeways,  but  on  all  the  remain- 
ing sides  the  country  is  beautifully  diversified  by  hill  and  dale, 
hamlet  and  field,  and  is  in  a high  state  of  cultivation.  Nan- 
kin is  the  center  of  one  of  the  most  fertile  as  well  as  the  most 
beautiful  portions  of  the  Empire,  and  I can  conceive  of  no 
reason  why  the  Emperor  should  have  wished  the  capital  re- 
moved to  Pekin. 

In  my  walk  through  the  city  I found  that  it  was  very  reg- 
ularly laid  out,  and  in  all  respects  well  built.  It  consists  of 
four  wide  and  parallel  avenues,  intersected  by  others  of  less 
width.  The  part  occupied  by  the  Manchoos  is  separated  by 
a cross  wall  from  the  Chinese  town.  Nankin  has  extensive 
manufactories  of  fine  satins  and  crapes,  and  the  cotton  cloth 
which  in  European  countries  is  called  “ Nankin,”  derives  its 
name  from  this  city. 

Paper  and  ink  of  superior  quality,  and  beautiful  artificial 
flowers,  are  also  produced.  I would  have  visited  all  these 
manufactories,  but  my  time  on  shore  was  so  limited  that  I 
could  only  take  a passing  glance  at  all  the  places  and  points 
of  interest.  Besides  the  manufactories  of  the  above  men- 
tioned articles,  Nankin  is  also  celebrated  for  its  scholars  and 
literary  characters,  and  for  being  the  residence  of  the  gov- 
ernor-general of  these  provinces. 

Outside  the  southern  walls  of  the  city  are  the  ruins  of  the 
celebrated  Porcelain  Tower,  called  by  the  Chinese,  “ Recom- 
pensing Favor  Monastery,”  and  which,  probably  as  much  as 
anything,  has  made  Nankin  noted  abroad.  But  a faint  idea 
of  its  former  grandeur  and  magnificence  can  be  formed 
from  what  is  now  remaining.  From  the  description  of  it 
when  in  its  pristine  beauty  and  splendor,  one  can  judge  how 
much  it  surpassed  all  similar  buildings  in  China  in  complete- 
ness and  elegance,  the  material  of  which  it  was  built,  and  the 
embellishments  of  its  interior.  Williams  thus  describes  it : 
“ Its  form  is  octagonal,  divided  into  nine  equal  stories,  the 
circumference  of  the  lower  one  being  one  hundred  and  twenty 


304 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


feet  and  gradually  diminishing  to  the  top.  Its  base  rests  up- 
on a solid  foundation  of  brickwork  twelve  feet  high,  up  which 
a flight  of  twelve  steps  leads  into  the  tower,  whence  a spiral 
staircase  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  steps  carries  the  visitor 
to  the  summit,  two  hundred  and  sixty-one  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  outer  face  is  covered  with  slabs  of  glazed  porcelain  of 
various  colors,  principally  green,  yellow,  red,  and  white ; the 
body  of  the  edifice  is  brick.  At  every  story  there  is  a pro- 
jecting roof  covered  with  green  tiles,  and  a bell  suspended 
from  each  corner.  The  saloons  are  more  gaudy  than  ele- 
gant, and  are  filled  with  a great  number  of  little  gilded  images 
placed  in  niches.  This  unique  structure  was  completed  A.  D. 
1430,  having  been  nineteen  years  building,  and  at  an  esti- 
mated cost  of  three  million  three  hundred  and  thirteen  thou- 
sand nine  hundred  and  seventy-five  dollars.” 

The  same  afternoon  that  I paid  a visit  to  the  city  I 
witnessed  a sham  battle  between  divisions  of  the  Imperial 
troops  stationed  at  Nankin,  which  numbered  about  60,000. 
All  were  armed  with  English  muskets,  and  in  addition  they 
had  several  heavy  pieces  of  ordnance.  One  division  was 
resisting  the  attempts  of  the  other  to  cross  over  a shallow 
ravine ; but  after  being  repulsed  several  times  they  at  last 
succeeded  in  crossing.  The  manoeuvres  were  admirably 
planned,  and  the  movements  and  firing  were  executed  in  as 
good  order,  and  with  as  much  regularity,  as  those  of  the  bes-t 
disciplined  European  troops ; and  yet  in  actual  fighting  these 
soldiers  are  good  for  nothing,  for  their  bodies  control  their 
minds,  and  will  run  away  from  all  danger. 

The  27th  we  left  Nankin  for  Chinkiang,  arriving  there 
the  same  day.  We  intended  to  remain  at  the  latter  place  a 
few  days;  but  quite  unexpectedly  got  under  way  on  the 
morning  of  the  29th  and  started  for  Shanghai,  having  on 
board  Mr.  and  Miss  Sands,  and  a Mr.  McGowan — agent  of 
the  projected  Russo-American  Telegraph  Company,  as  pas- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


305 


sengers.  We  arrived  here  the  next  day,  having  been  gone 
on  our  trip  thirty-four  days  and  logged  twelve  hundred  and 
thirty  six  knots.  It  has  been  a trip  full  of  interest  and 
pleasure  from  beginning  to  end,  with  nothing  to  mar  our  en- 
joyment. 


306 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


LETTER  XXXII. 


U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Ningpo,  China,) 
April  22,  1867.  j 

My  Dear  R. : 

We  remained  at  Shanghai  only  a sufficient  time  to  take  in 
coal  and  provisions,  and  then,  agreeable  to  previous  orders 
from  the  Admiral  we  left  there  April  3d  for  Foo-chow, 
where  we  arrived  the  6th.  We  went  down  by  what  is 
called  the  Inland  Passage — having  the  main  land  on  our  star- 
board, and  the  Saddle  Islands  and  the  Chusan  Group  on 
on  our  port,  and  coming  to  anchor  every  night.  W e were  in 
sight  of  land  during  the  entire  passage,  but  not  until  the 
morning  of  the  6th  did  we  have  a glimpse  of  anything  ex- 
cept high,  rocky,  and  barren  ridges  of  hills. 

The  scenery  improved  as  we  entered  the  northeastern 
of  the  two  mouths  of  the  Min  River,  which  are  formed  by  the 
large  island  Kin-pai-mun,  some  forty  miles  in  circumference. 
In  a short  time  we  crossed  the  bar,  and  entered  a fine  circu- 
lar basin  six  or  seven  miles  in  diameter.  Passing  through 
this,  we  came  to  where  the  river  suddenly  narrows  down  to 
less  than  half  a mile  in  width,  and  is  overshadowed  on  either 
hand  by  ranges  of  hills  from  fifteen  hundred  to  two  thousand 
feet  in  height,  defended  by  numerous  batteries.  Beyond 
these  the  river  widens  to  about  three-fourths  of  a mile,  which 
remains  the  uniform  width  until  Lo-sing-tah , or  Pagoda  An- 
chorage, some  twenty-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  nine  below  the  city  of  Foo-chow,  the  place  where  all 
the  foreign  ships  and  large  junks  usually  anchor,  is  reached, 
nothing  that  we  have  yet  seen  in  Chinese  scenery  can  excel 
the  wild  beauty  and  imposing  grandeur  of  the  river  Min  in 


Pagoda  ^nchorage, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


307 


approaching  Foo-chow.  On  either  hand  is  a lofty  mountain 
chain  indented  with  deep  gorges  or  ravines  down  which  ran 
beautiful  rivulets  leaping  and  dancing,  the  clear  waters  flash- 
ing in  the  sunlight  through  occasional  openings  in  the  pine 
groves  with  which  the  ravines  and  gorges  are  usually  lined. 
Although  exceedingly  rough,  with  immense  granite  knobs 
jutting  forth,  these  hills  may  be  said  to  be  clothed  with  ver- 
dure from  the  base  to  the  summit.  The  less  rugged  are  laid 
out  in  terraces  rising  one  above  another,  sometimes  to  the 
number  of  forty  or  fifty. 

On  nearly  every  hill  were  to  be  seen  orange,  lemon,  and 
mulberry  groves  with  varied  and  beautiful  patches  of  shrub- 
bery. Of  cultivated  products  wheat  and  barley  were  the 
principal.  Although  of  a different  composition,  the  scenery 
of  the  Min  is  said  to  bear  a favorable  comparison  with  that 
of  the  Hudson. 

“ Pagoda  Anchorage  ” is  a lovely  basin  some  eight  or  ten 
miles  in  length  by  six  or  seven  in  width,  formed  by  the 
widening  of  the  river.  For  some  little  distance  inland  the 
surface  of  the  country  is  low  and  level  and  devoted  to  rice 
culture ; it  is  there  all  enclosed  high,  picturesque  hills,  and 
has  been  admirably  likened  to  a vast  amphitheater.  During 
our  stay  there  were  quite  a large  number  of  merchant  ships 
engaged  in  loading  with  tea  and  silks,  which  form  the  princi- 
pal articles  of  export.  Presenting  an  interesting  feature  in 
the  native  boating-life  are  the  boats  decked  out  in  evergreens 
and  flowers,  and  many  of  the  boat-women  wear  head-dresses 
of  beautiful  flowers. 

Pagoda  Island,  situated  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
anchorage,  and  about  two  miles  in  circumference,  is  for  the 
most  part  an  oval  eminence,  rising  about  three  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river.  With  the  old  Pagoda  near  its 
summit,  the  rustic  cottages,  grand  old  trees,  fine  shrubbery 
and  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation,  it  forms  an  exceedingly 
wild,  beautiful,  and  picturesque  spot.  On  the  southern  side 


308 


CHINA  AND  JArAN, 


are  some  eight  or  ten  quite  fine  European  buildings,  and 
scattered  all  over  the  island  are  about  one  hundred  Chinese 
houses.  Just  above  Pagoda  island  the  river  unites  from  the 
division  which  occurs  above  Foo-chow,  enclosing  a fertile  and 
highly  cultivated  tract  of  land. 

The  old  Pagoda,  from  which  the  island  and  anchorage 
derive  their  names,  rests  upon  a stone  dais  seven  or  eight 
feet  in  height.  It  is  an  octagonal  stone  shaft  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  high  and  divided  into  seven  stories. 
It  is  ascended  by  staircases  passing  through  the  pagoda  from 
one  side  to  the  other,  and  opening  upon  a narrow  platform  or 
coping  at  the  base  of  the  story  immediately  above.  Upon 
this  coping  one  has  to  walk  half  way  around  the  pagoda  to 
reach  the  foot  of  the  staircase  of  each  succeeding  story.  The 
upper  copings  are  much  narrower  than  the  lower  ones,  being 
barely  eighteen  inches  wide,  and  are  in  a very  dilapidated 
condition.  At  such  a great  height  one  is  apt  to  feel  giddy, 
and  unless  one  has  a strong  nerve,  the  ascent  is  a dangerous 
undertaking ; it  might  easily  prove  a fatal  one,  as  there  is 
nothing  to  lay  hold  of,  and  a fall  from  such  a height  would 
be  certain  death.  From  the  appearance  of  the  top  I should 
judge  that  formerly  its  height  was  one  or  more  stories  more 
than  it  now  is,  and  I have  been  told  that  at  the  time  of  its 
construction  there  was  a tower,  increasing  its  height  fifty  feet. 
From  the  summit  I had  a magnificent  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country ; the  river  wending  its  way  between  lofty  moun- 
tain ranges,  and  bordered  by  green  paddy  fields,  beautiful 
groves,  pretty  hamlets  and  villages,  and  nine  miles  in  the 
distance  the  large  city  of  Foo-chow,  with  its  celebrated  stone 
bridge  of  forty-nine  arches,  its  teeming  river  population,  and 
two-thirds  of  a million  of  inhabitants. 

During  our  stay  at  Foo-chow,  the  ship  was  thronged  at 
every  meal-hour  by  peddlers,  with  their  boat  loads  of  soap- 
stone carvings.  Boxes,  plates,  dishes,  vases,  and  a great 
number  of  ornaments,  were  among  the  articles  noticed,  and 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


309 


many  of  them  were  very  prettily  designed  and  skillfully 
carved.  So  little  compensation  was  demanded  for  them  that 
nearly  every  one  made  purchases,  varying  in  value  from  a 
few  cents  to  a number  of  dollars. 

Our  object  in  going  to  Foo-chow  was  to  meet  the  United 
States  double-ender  “Ashuelot,”  which  vessel  had  lately 
arrived  on  the  station,  and  had  brought  up  stores  for  us  from 
Hong  Kong.  Having  taken  these  on  board,  we  left  there 
April  13th,  for  Ningpo.  About  noon,  the  16th,  we  arrived 
off  Square  Island — a small  but  lovely  island  off  the  mouth 
of  the  Yung  or  Tahiah  river — on  which  Ningpo  stands. 
About  three  miles  nearer  the  coast  we  passed  another  small 
island,  (Tiger’s)  on  which  was  a light  house  and  signal- 
station  ; and  then,  after  proceeding  a few  miles  further,  we 
dropped  anchor  off  Chinhae,  a district  town  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  and  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  Ningpo. 

Chinhae  is  so  situated  and  possesses  such  natural  advantages 
that,  with  ordinary  fortifications,  it  might  be  made  to  com- 
pletely command  the  passage.  On  the  northern  or  left  bank 
of  the  river,  immediately  below  the  town,  is  a high,  rocky 
and  precipitous  bluff,  accessible  only  by  a narrow  foot-path, 
which  leads  up  from  the  sea.  On  the  summit  of  this  hill 
are  the  ruins  of  what  must  have  been  an  extensive  and 
strongly-fortified  citadel.  From  the  number  of  Joss  temples 
within  its  walls,  the  eminence  doubtless  derives  its  name  of 
“Joss-house  Hill.”  At  the  time  of  the  assault  upon  and 
taking  of  the  place  by  the  English  in  1841,  there  was  a 
greater  loss  of  life  than  in  any  previous  engagement,  except- 
ing that  at  Chinkiang ; indeed,  after  several  ineffectual 
assaults,  it  was  at  last  taken  by  stratagem. 

The  town  is  connected  with  this  eminence  by  a stone 
causeway,  and  with  the  eminence  occupies  a long,  narrow 
tongue  of  land,  having  the  river  on  one  side  and  a deep 
bight  of  the  sea  on  the  other.  Upon  this  latter  side,  some 
three  or  four  miles  in  length,  is  a dyke,  built  of  large  blocks 


310 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


of  hewn  granite,  which  affords  a good  protection  from  the 
waves.  The  city  walls  are  about  twenty-five  feet  high  and 
thick,  and  three  miles  in  circumference,  and  the  suburbs  are 
upwards  of  one-half  the  extent  of  the  enciente.  The  variously- 
colored  tiles  on  the  roofs  of  the  houses ; the  many  fine,  large 
trees;  the  tall  masts  of  the  junks  gliding  along  a small 
branch’ of  the  river  which  flows  through  the  town,  and  the 
numerous  pagoda  spires,  give  to  Chinhae  an  exceedingly  gay 
and  picturesque  appearance.  The  country  immediately 
around  it  is  very  mountainous  and  broken,  but  nevertheless 
very  fertile  and  in  a high  state  of  cultivation,  partly  in  the 
terrace  form. 

After  remaining  at  Chinhae  two  days,  we,  with  a beautiful 
day  and  a trusted  pilot,  started  up  the  river  for  Ningpo. 
Above  Chinhae  the  hills  gradually  recede,  so  that  Ningpo 
lies  in  an  extended  plain,  stretching  away  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  and  uniting  with  the  high,  blue  hills  beyond. 
With  the  exception  of  the  hills  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Chinhae,  the  view  on  that  side  presents  nothing  but  the 
ocean.  It  all  forms  quite  a varied  and  extensive  prospect ; 
and  the  eye,  in  roaming  over  it,  catches  many  a pleasing 
object.  Landward  it  sees  villages  and  hamlets,  smiling  cot- 
tages and  family  residences,  pleasant  fields  and  snug  farm- 
houses ; temples,  canals,  and  water-courses ; monasteries  and 
family  tombs,  and  numerous  resting  places  of  the  dead. 
Seaward,  a vast  plain,  stretching  away  to  the  ocean ; but  the 
river  is  fairly  alive  with  boats,  and  the  banks  are  lined  with 
ice-houses.  These  ice-houses  are  quite  a novelty  in  them- 
selves, stone  walls  rising  some  eight  or  ten  feet,  and  thatched 
over  with  bamboos  and  straw.  At  the  rear  of  each  one  are 
large,  shallow  vats,  where  the  ice  is  collected  during  the 
winter  season.  An  hour’s  steaming  brought  us  to  anchor 
just  below  the  city,  where  the  river  is  about  one-third  of  a 
mile  in  width. 

Ningpo-fu  (?.  e.,  “ Peaceful  City,”)  is  next  to  Hanchow,  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


311 


most  important  city  in  the  province  of  Chinkiang,  and  bears 
the  deserved  name  of  being  the  finest  city  on  the  coast  open 
to  foreign  intercourse.  It  is  situated  on  the  left  or  north- 
western bank  of  the  Tahee  or  Ningpo  river,  just  below  its 
junction  with  the  Tsz-ki,  which  flows  in  from  the  westward, 
so  that  two  faces  of  the.  city  are  defended  by  the  river.  The 
others  are  defended  by  a moat,  nearly  three  miles  in  length, 
and  in  many  places  more  than  one  hundred  feet  in  width. 
By  means  of  this  the  city  is  surrounded  by  water,  and  its 
site  is  often  called  an  island.  The  city  walls  are  about  five 
miles  in  length,  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  feet  high,  and 
so  wide  that  three  carriages  can  easily  be  driven  abreast  upon 
the  ramparts.  They  are  very  solidly  constructed,  and  are 
strengthened  by  huge  square  buttresses.  There  are  six 
gates,  besides  two  sally-ports  for  the  passage  of  boats 
which  ply  on  the  canals  within  the  city.  On  the  triangular 
tongue  of  land,  on  the  northern  bank  of  Tsz-ki  river,  is  the 
foreign  quarter,  containing  many  fine  buildings  and  upwards  of 
one  thousand  inhabitants. 

But,  come  ! we  will  row  our  boat  ashore,  and  see  what  of 
interest  a ramble  will  present  us.  We  land  at  a rickety 
wooden  pier  at  the  foot  of  the  principal  street  in  the  foreign 
quarter.  We  make  no  stay  here,  but  are  brought,  by  a few 
minutes’  walk  through  the  extensive  northern  suburbs,  to  the 
floating  bridge  which  crosses  the  river  separating  them  from 
the  city.  This  bridge  is  two  hundred  yards  long  and  five 
wide,  made  of  planks  firmly  lashed,  and  resting  upon  sixteen 
huge  lighters,  chained  together,  but  which  can  be  opened  to 
admit  of  vessels  passing  up  and  down  the  river.  Crossing 
this  bridge  through  numerous  market  stalls,  and  amid  ped- 
dlers and  tinkers  of  every  kind,  we  come  to  a toll-gate  at  the 
opposite  end,  and  have  to  pay  four  cash  each  to  the  French- 
man who  has  charge,  for  the  privilege  of  walking  over.  We 
are  first  attracted  by  a fine  stone  monument,  not  ten  yards 
away.  From  its  inscription  we  learn  that  it  was  erected  to  the 


312 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


memory  of  the  officers,  seamen,  and  marines  of  the  French 
and  English  squadrons,  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  attack  on 
Ningpo,  May  10th,  1862.  It  stands  upon  the  spot  where  the 
rebel  battery  was  planted.  An  hundred  yards  further  on, 
upon  the  eastern  side,  and  we  arrive  at  Bridge  gate,  by  which 
we  enter  the  city,  between  two  massive  stone  towers,  more 
than  fifty  feet  high.  Here  we  are  saluted  by  the  Chinese 
guard,  who  are  armed  with  old  English  tower  muskets. 

As  the  first  thing,  we  decide  to  visit  their  Tein-fung-tah, 
or  “ Heaven  Conferred  Pagoda,”  that  being  considered  the 
greatest  wonder  and  principal  item  of  interest  about  Ningpo. 
With  this  in  mind  we  make  our  way  through  several  streets, 
and  the  court-yards  of  a neighboring  Buddhist  monastery,  and 
are  at  length  brought  by  our  guide  to  the  open  space  in  which 
the  tower  stands.  This  space  is  overgrown  with  a thick 
herbage,  and  in  it  are  several  ancient  tombs.  Everything 
surrounding  it  bears  a decaying  and  deserted  appearance,  and 
the  tower,  in  many  spots,  is  fast  crumbling  away.  It  is  hex- 
agonal in  form,  has  seven  stories,  and  is  more  than  one  hun- 
dred feet  high.  Upon  the  projecting  roofs,  around  the  open- 
ings, and  upon  the  roofs  of  the  tower  which  surmounts  it, 
plants  take  the  place  of  ivy  in  decorating  the  aged  walls,  and 
give  to  the  old  tower  an  exceedingly  picturesque  appearance. 
The  guide  tells  us  that  it  was  built  nine  hundred  years  ago, 
during  the  How-Chow  dynasty,  but  that  since  that  time  it  has 
suffered  much  from  the  elements,  and  many  changes  made  in 
the  repairs  of  it.  Extensive  repairs  were  made  about  twenty 
years  ago,  both  inside  and  out.  One  marked  feature  in  this 
tower  is,  that  it  leans  so  much  that  a line  let  fall  from  the  top 
would  strike  the  ground  at  least  ten  feet  from  the  base. 

We  have  seen  the  outside,  and  now  we  will  enter.  This 
wre  find  is  impossible,  until  w^e  have  unlocked  the  door  of  the 
priest’s  heart  with  a handful  of  “ cash  ” then  he  opens  the 
door  of  the  tower  with  his  huge,  rusty,  iron  key.  In  the 
lower  story  is  a large  collection  of  images,  adornments,  and 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


313 


the  usual  paraphernalia  found  in  temples,  but  the  upper  ones 
are  bare.  A succession  of  rickety  wooden  stairs,  two  flights 
in  each  story,  conduct  us  to  the  top ; and,  as  we  gradually  as- 
cend the  view  is  increasingly  extensive,  grand,  and  magnifi- 
cent, until,  at  last,  reaching  the  summit  the  entire  city  of 
Ning-po  lies  at  our  feet,  and  we  have  a complete  view  of  the 
suburbs,  rivers,  and  much  of  the  surrounding  country.  The 
many  and  variously-colored  tiled  roofs  of  the  temples,  the 
grotesque  styles  of  architecture,  the  curiously  sculptured 
arches,  the  various  emblematic  signs  of  civic  authority,  and 
the  vast  populace  of  a city  teeming  with  busy  toil,  form  the 
foreground  of  the  picture,  \$hile  the  city  walls,  their  dull 
monotony  relieved  by  the  high  watch-towers,  the  suburbs  be- 
yond, the  river  fairly  alive  with  its  numerous,  busy  popula- 
tion, and  the  verdant  country  stretching  away  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  distinguish,  dotted  with  villages  and  hamlets,  snug 
farm  houses  and  country  residences,  temples,  grave-yards  and 
monasteries,  all  combined  form  a view  varied,  beautiful,  and 
grand.  ’Tis  a scene  over  which  we  might  with  pleasure 
spend  hours  drinking  in  its  wondrous  beauties  ; but  the  short- 
ness of  our  time  forbids  more  than  a passing  glance,  and  half 
satisfied  we  are  forced  to  leave  it  and  descend. 

Our  next  visit  is  to  the  Mahommedan  mosque,  near  the 
centre  of  the  city.  The  building  is  not  extensive,  but  has  an 
air  of  peculiar  neatness.  We  cannot  fail  to  admire  some 
flowers  that  are  tastefully  arranged  in  the  principal  court, 
into  which  two  or  three  dwellings  open,  and  at  the  upper  end 
of  which  the  mosque  is  situated. 

We  tell  our  guide  that  we  do  not  care  to  remain  here  long, 
and  request  him  to  take  us  to  a place  of  more  interest.  A 
few  steps  more  and  we  enter  a “ sing-song  house  ” and  a tem- 
ple combined.  The  entrance  to  it  is  by  the  usual  triple  doors, 
under  arches  and  through  two  or  three  courts,  but  everything 
is  on  a more  elaborate  and  magnificent  scale  than  is  usually 
met  with  in  Chinese  cities.  We  find  ourselves  in  a court 


314 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


about  twenty  yards  square,  entirely  surrounded  by  a range  of 
two-story  buildings  of  the  most  approved  style  of  Chinese 
architecture.  Like  the  generality  of  the  better  class  of  Chi- 
nese houses,  the  one  story  is  raised  above  the  other  by  pillars, 
and  each  has  a separate  tiled  roof,  with  many  projecting  cor- 
nices from  which  bells  are  suspended.  The  pillars  upholding 
the  roofs,  and  also  the  tripods,  braziers,  and  other  utensils 
employed  in  their  worship,  and  ofttimes  seen  in  court  yards, 
are  curiously  and  elaborately  sculptured.  The  entire  lower 
floor  is  open,  facing  the  court,  and  the  walls  are  hung  with 
fine  paintings  of  favorite  Chinese  scenes.  From  the  roof  of 
the  first  story  on  one  side  a talcony  projects,  where  the  or- 
chestra is  located  and  the  scenes  enacted.  The  three  other 
sides  are  open  towards  the  court,  and  seats  placed  around, 
much  like  the  dress-circles  of  our  theatres  at  home.  There 
are  upwards  of  three  thousand  persons  present,  wholly  ab- 
sorbed in  the  representation  of  some  ancient  deed  of  prowess. 
For  the  theatre  in  general,  we  are  obliged  to  acknowledge, 
that  the  orchestra  is  far  superior,  the  costumes  more  gorgeous, 
and  the  acting  much  better  than  any  before  seen  in  China. 

Upon  the  side  opposite  the  stage  and  adjoining  the  theatre 
is  a joss  temple  dedicated  to  the  goddess  Kwan-Yin,  and,  al- 
though quite  small,  it  well-nigh  dazzles  one  by  the  splendor 
and  magnificence  of  its  adornments.  As  a woman  the  most 
beautiful  in  form  and  feature  that  the  Chinese  mind  could 
conceive  of,  the  goddess  occupies  a central  recess  on  one  side 
of  the  building.  Two  other  images  similar  in  form  but  of 
inferior  size  occupy  recesses  on  either  hand,  and  these  three 
are  the  only  images  to  be  seen.  Offerings  of  almost  every 
conceivable  kind  cover  the  large,  curiously  carved  table  in 
front  of  the  idols.  The  walls  are  hung  with  rich  paintings  in 
the  greatest  profusion,  while  from  the  ceiling  are  suspended 
upwards  of  fifty  large  Chinese  lamps  with  their  sides  of 
stained  glass  of  almost  every  hue.  In  the  midst  of  these 
hangs  a golden  chandelier,  having  sixty  burners.  The  sun- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


315 


light  is  purposely  excluded  from  the  interior  of  the  edifice, 
and  by  the  continual  light  of  the  lamps,  the  real  beauties  and 
gorgeousness  of  the  temple  are  ever  seen  greatly  heightened. 

The  Confucian  temple  at  Ningpo  is  somewhat  celebrated 
the  guide  tells  us,  so  we  conclude  to  visit  it  next.  Arriving 
there  we  find  a large,  plain,  neat  temple,  and  upon  entering 
we  see  no  idols,  but  in  their  stead  some  tablets,  and  a room 
very  plainly  furnished.  The  Confucian  religion  is  the  most 
honored,  both  by  the  government  and  by  the  learned,  but  as 
it  has  little  or  nothing  to  do  with  theology,  and  is  merely  a 
scheme  of  ethics  and  politics,  from  which  things  spiritual  and 
divine  are  uniformly  excluded,  it  seems  almost  a misnomer  to 
call  such  a system  a religion.  He  compares  the  government 
of  a country  to  that  of  a family,  and  bases  the  whole  upon  a 
due  control  of  self  and  the  right  management  of  the  heart. 
He  lays  down  the  golden  rule  of  doing  unto  others  as  we 
would  they  should  do  unto  us ; and  lays  the  foundation  of 
moral  conduct  in  feeling  for  and  excusing  others,  as  we  would 
for  ourselves.  According  to  his  school,  the  five  cardinal  vir- 
tues are  righteousness,  benevolence,  politeness,  wisdom  and 
truth ; and  the  duties  of  the  human  relations,  those  which 
should  exist  between  parents  and  children,  husbands  and 
wives,  princes  and  ministers,  friends  and  companions.  Of 
all  these,  filial  piety  stands  foremost ; respect  and  reverence 
to  parents  are  required  not  only  in  youth  but  even  until  the 
latest  period  of  life  are  they  to  be  treated  with  honor,  and 
after  death  they  are  raised  to  the  rank  of  gods.  This  feeling, 
they  say,  is  necessary  to  insure  fidelity  to  one’s  prince,  affec- 
tion for  one’s  brethren,  kindness  to  one’s  domestics,  or  sin- 
cerity among  friends.  This  feeling,  if  conceived  in  the  heart, 
and  embodied  in  the  life,  will  lead  to  the  performance  of  every 
duty,  and  the  entire  renovation  of  the  whole  man.  It  is  not 
to  be  confined  to  time  and  place,  but  is  to  be  maintained, 
whether  the  object  of  our  respect  be  absent  or  present,  alive 


316 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


or  dead  ; and  thousands  of  years  after  their  death  ancestors 
are  still  to  live  in  the  undiminished  affections  of  their  descend- 
ants. 

It  is  strange  that  while  Confucius  teaches  such  excessive 
veneration  for  parents,  he  should  have  entirely  omitted  the 
reverence  due  to  the  Father  of  our  spirits.  But  thus  it  is, 
and,  although  from  some  expressions  about  “heaven”  and 
the  “Supreme  Ruler,”  we  might  infer  that  the  Chinese  had 
some  knowledge  of  the  Creator  and  Ruler  of  the  universe, 
and  honored  Him  as  such,  their  constant  propensity  to  ma- 
terialism, proves  that  the  system  is  destitute  of  the  main  truth 
which  lies  at  the  basis  of  all  truth,  viz.,  the  being  of  a self- 
existent,  eternal,  and  all  wise  God.  In  some  of  their  earlier 
writings  there  are  allusions  which  would  seem  to  imply  that 
at  one  time  the  Chinese  had  some  idea  of  an  universal  Sover- 
eign, but  the  belief  if  it  ever  existed  has  since  been  eradicated 
by  philosophy,  or  flung  aside  by  vain  conceit. 

This  sect  acknowledges  a material  trinity,  called  heaven, 
earth,  and  man.  By  the  latter  a few  sages  only  are  meant, 
and  of  these  Confucius  ranks  foremost.  By  the  Chinese  he 
is  often  referred  to  with  the  expression,  “ equal  to  heaven.” 
They  even  pay  him  divine  honors ; for  it  appears,  by  refer- 
ence to  the  recent  translation  of  a native  work,  that  there  are 
upwards  of  one  thousand  six  hundred  temples  in  the  empire 
dedicated  to  Confucius.  At  the  semi-annual  sacrifices,  in  the 
spring  and  autumn,  there  are  immolated  to  the  manes  of  Con- 
fucius about  sixty-five  thousand  animals,  and  at  the  same 
time  are  presented  nearly  twenty-eight  thousand  pieces  of 
silk.  All  these  are  provided  by  the  government — and  are 
in  addition  to  the  numerous  offerings  of  private  individuals. 

Instead  of  believing  and  teaching  that  the  Great  Spirit  was 
the  maker  of  all  things,  the  Confucians  hold  that  spirits  are 
far  inferior  to  the  visible  and  material  heavens,  and  even 
rank  below  sages  and  modern  rulers.  Confucius  acknowl- 
edged that  he  knew  very  little  about  them,  and  therefore  pre- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


317 


ferred  speaking  about  other  things.  His  universal  maxim 
was,  “ Respect  the  gods,  but  keep  them  at  a distance that 
is,  “show  them  all  due  honor,  but  have  as  little  to  do  with 
them  as  possible.”  It  is  customary  with  the  Chinese  to  at- 
tach a presiding  spirit  to  each  dynasty  and  kingdom,  to  the 
land  and  grain,  to  hills  and  rivers,  wind  and  fire ; while  the 
four  corners  of  the  house,  with  the  shop,  parlor  and  kitchen 
of  every  dwelling  are  supposed  to  be  under  the  influence-  of 
some  tutelary  divinity.  Confucius  thought  it  necessary  to 
honor  these,  but  was  averse  to  what  he  called  flattering  the 
gods  by  constant  services. 

With  regard  to  the  future  state  the  Chinese  seem  to  be 
wholly  in  the  dark.  They  speak  of  the  intellectual  principle 
as  distinct  from  the  animal  soul ; but  do  not  say  anything 
about  its  existence  after  death.  The  idea  of  retribution  is 
not  connected  with  the  invisible  world  at  all ; but  they  im- 
agine that  the  rewards  of  virtue  and  vice  are  confined  to  the 
present  state,  and  if  not  dealt  out  in  the  lifetime  of  the  indi- 
vidual, will  be  visited  upon  his  children  and  grand-children 
to  the  latest  generation.  There  seems  to  be  nothing  to  allure 
one  to  goodness  but  the  principle  of  pursuing  virtue  for  its 
own  sake.  The  Confucian  doctrine  in  regard  to  human  na- 
ture is,  that  men  are  born  into  the  world  free  from  sin  or 
wickedness,  but  by  intercourse  with  others  they  become  cor- 
rupt and  vicious ; but  the  sages,  by  their  instructions  awaken 
and  renovate  mankind  when  they  revert  to  their  original 
purity.  Such  is  the  outline  of  the  honored  state  religion  of 
Confucius.  Of  the  other  two  religions  of  China  I will  make 
some  mention  in  a future  letter. 

After  leaving  the  Confucian  temple,  and  as  we  walk  the 
entire  length  of  Tung-mun-keae, — East-gate  street,  the  prin- 
cipal one  within  the  walls,  there  is  much  that  is  new  and  in- 
teresting presented  to  us.  The  streets  are  for  the  most  part 
uncommonly  wide,  well-paved,  and  quite  clean  and  neat.  The 
houses  are  better  than  the  generality  of  those  in  Chinese 


318 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


cities.  Those  of  the  better  class  are  situated  within  small 
courts,  the  latter  finely  flagged,  and  ornamented  with  flower- 
beds, shrubbery,  and  shade-trees.  In  many  of  these  courts 
are  placed  large  vases,  in  which  can  be  seen  swimming  gold 
and  silver  fish.  The  shops  are  unusually  large  and  fine  and 
well  stored  with  rich  articles.  The  chief  curiosities  to  us  are 
the  many  and  various  rich  silks,  and  the  picture-frames  curi- 
ously carved  from  a species  of  soft,  satin,  white  wood.  But 
stop ! Close  by  the  gate,  as  we  are  going  out  of  the  city,  is 
the  greatest  wonder  and  curiosity  we  have  seen  to-day  ; — a 
little  Chinese  boy  with  blue  eyes  and  golden  hair. 

Last  Sunday  we  had  the  rare  treat  of  having  divine  ser- 
vice, held  on  board  ship.  The  pastor  of  the  Congregational 
church  here  officiated  and  gave  us  an  excellent  discourse. 
But  the  treat  to  the  greater  portion  of  the  crew,  consisted,  for 
the  most  part,  in  the  addition  made  to  our  singing  by  several 
exceedingly  attractive  ladies  who  attended  from  shore. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Ningpo,  a crack  four  inches  long 
was  discovered  in  our  crank-pin.  Since  that  time  there  has 
been  much  excitement  over  the  many  rumors  about  its  hast- 
ening our  return  to  the  States.  We  expect  to  leave  here  for 
Shanghai  this  afternoon,  where  a survey  will  be  held,  and  we 
shall  then  know  something  more  definite  concerning  our  future 
movements. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


319 


LETTER  XXXIII. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai,  China, 

June  24,  1867. 

My  Dear  R. : 

We  have  made  the  tour  of  China;  so  I do  not  dislike  the 
prospect  of  remaining  here  for  a few  months  while  repairs  are 
being  made  on  our  engine,  with  the  almost  certainty  that  we 
shall  start  for  home  soon  after  the  repairs  are  completed. 
There  are  some  two  or  three  more  places  that  I would  like  to 
visit,  but  they  hardly  offer  sufficient  inducements  to  remain 
longer  in  China,  away  from  home  and  friends. 

We  arrived  here  April  24th,  having  been  about  fifteen 
hours  in  logging  the  one  hundred  and  forty-one  knots  from 
Ningpo.  The  evening  after  our  arrival  we  had  a boat  race 
between  our  second  and  third  cutters.  The  distance  was 
about  five  miles,  for  a purse  of  $70.  The  second  cutter  came 
in  one  and  one-fourth  minutes  ahead,  having  made  the  dis- 
tance in  thirty-one  minutes. 

Although  we  have  had  considerable  racing  since  we  have 
been  out,  I have  neglected  to  make  any  mention  of  it  until 
now.  We  have  two  boats,  a cutter  and  a gig,  with  which  we 
intend  to  challenge  and  beat  every  boat  of  that  description  in 
these  waters.  The  gig  was  built  to  order  last  year,  and  in 
every  respect  is  a superior  boat.  In  practicing,  the  racing 
crew  man  the  boat  and  go  on  shore  whenever  there  is  an  oc- 
casion for  so  doing,  and  we  have  daily  practice  besides. 

On  the  evening  of  the  second  day  after  our  arrival  here, 
the  bells  in  English  Concession  commenced  ringing  the  alarm 
for  fire,  and  were  almost  immediately  followed  by  those  of 
American  and  French  Concessions,  and  the  firing  of  an  alarm 


320 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


gun  by  H.  B.  M.’s  sloop  Pelorus.  Our  fire  company  was 
immediately  called,  and  dispatched  to  the  scene  of  the  fire, 
taking  with  them  the  fire-engine  belonging  to  the  Americans. 
It  seems  that  the  fire  originated  in  some  Chinese  shops  at 
the  rear  of  the  Danish  Consulate,  and  spread  so  rapidly,  that 
only  the  timely  arrival  of  assistance  and  the  most  energetic 
endeavors  prevented  its  becoming  a very  disastrous  conflag- 
ration ; as  it  was,  very  little  damage  was  done. 

The  next  morning  the  store  ship  Supply  anchored  near  us, 
having  been  seventeen  days  from  Hong  Kong.  She  brought 
the  promotions  of  several  officers;  and  smiling  faces,  and  a 
greater  display  of  brass  have  since  been  noticed  on  our 
quarter-deck.  Furthermore,  the  crew  have  benefitted  some- 
what by  the  promotions,  in  the  increased  privileges  which 
they  have  enjoyed,  and  the  smaller  amount  of  unnecessary 
duty  required  of  them.  Soon,. however,  the  satisfaction  de- 
rived from  the  knowledge  that  they  in  reality  possess  the 
long  coveted  grade,  will  be  superseded  in  the  minds  of  our 
just-fledged  officers  by  the  wish  to  exercise  the  new  and  in- 
creased Authority,  and  then  our  benefits  will  be  past. 

The  first  thing  after  our  arrival  here,  the  crew  were  set  to 
work  in  making  everything  about  the  ship  as  neat  and  trim 
as  possible.  The  task  was  completed  Tuesday,  May  7th, 
with  the  exception  of  the  crank-pin,  upon  which  the  en- 
gineers are  still  engaged.  The  next  morning  the  captain 
mustered  the  crew,  and  made  them  a little  speech.  He  was 
glad  that  the  men  came  off  from  their  last  general  liberty  in 
an  unusually  creditable  manner,  and  so  long  as  they  con- 
tinued to  do  so,  he  should  give  orders  that  they  might  go  on 
shore  whenever  they  could  be  spared  from  the  ship.  He 
said  also  that  he  had  made  arrangements  for  having  divine 
service  held  on  board  the  ship,  so  long  as  we  should  remain 
here,  which  would  be  several  months  at  least ; and,  as  it 
would  do  no  harm  and  might  do  some  good,  he  hoped  that 
all  would  attend.  His  promise  has  been  fulfilled  and  we 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


321 


have  had  good  preaching,  and  in  all  respects  exceedingly  in- 
teresting services  every  Sunday  since  we  have  been  here 
this  time.  We  have  a different  minister  nearly  every  Sun- 
day, but  so  far  we  have  had  none  that  we  did  not  all  like 
very  well.  Rev.  Mr.  Yates,  who  is  at  the  head  of  the 
Methodist  missions  here,  has  held  service  more  frequently 
perhaps  than  any  other  divine,  and  is  rather  better  liked. 
It  is  really  quite  refreshing  to  see  our  ship  when  everything 
is  prepared  for  the  morning  service.  Both  ship  and  crew  are 
in  their  cleanest  and  best  attire,  and  the  quarter-deck  is  fitted 
up  with  seats  and  tastefully  decorated  with  flags.  Our 
church  is  getting  to  be  quite  fashionable,  too,  as  may  be  seen 
in  the  increased  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  come 
from  shore  every  Sunday.  The  American  consul,  Mr. 
Bradford,  has  brought  his  melodeon  on  board,  so  that  we 
have  excellent  music  and  singing,  and  the  entire  ser- 
vices are  conducted  in  the  same  manner  as  in  churches  on 
shore. 

The  spring  meeting  for  the  Shanghai  races  was  held  May 
8th,  9th,  10th,  and  11th,  and,  with  beautiful  weather  and  an 
attendance  of  upwards  of  five  thousand  Europeans  from  all 
parts  of  China,  was  the  most  successful  meeting  that  has  yet 
been  had.  Several  tickets  were  sent  to  our  executive  offi- 
cer for  distribution,  one  of  which  I was  fortunate  enough  to 
obtain.  The  first  day  I set  out  alone  for  the  race  grounds, 
which  are  located  about  two  miles  back  of  the  English  conces- 
sion ; but,  being  unacquainted  with  the  locality,  I was  more 
than  two  hours  in  reaching  them,  and  succeeded  in  doing  so 
only  after  numerous  inquiries  and  double  the  necessary 
amount  of  travel.  I found  that  I was  early,  the  ponies  just 
being  saddled  for  the  first  race. 

While  waiting  for  them  to  get  ready,  we  will  have  a glance 
at  the  grounds,  etc.  The  course  is  a rude  pentagon  in  form, 
one  and  one-fourth  of  a mile  in  circuit,  divided  off  by  tall 
white  posts  into  fourths  of  a mile.  A portion  of  the  track 
15 


322 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN; 


has  recently  been  ploughed  up,  and  the  rest  is  turfed  over. 
Just  inside  this  course  is  a second  about  one  mile  in  circuit, 
on  which,  at  short  intervals,  are  fences,  mounds,  and  ditches, 
for  steeplechasing  and  scrambles.  In  the  center  of  the 
grounds  is  a fine  cricket  field.  Only  a low  fence  surrounds 
the  grounds,  so  that  a good  view  of  the  races  may  be  had  from 
the  outside;  but  policemen  are  stationed  all  around  to  pre- 
vent any  one  from  coming  in,  except  through  the  main  gate, 
where  tickets  are  required.  The  enclosure  where  are  the 
grand  stand,  stables,  and  promenades  for  the  spectators  is  a 
fine  grassy  plot  of  about  ten  acres  to  the  westward  of  the 
course.  The  stand  itself  is  a fine,  large,  two- story  building. 
On  the  lower  floor  is  a restaurant,  and  the  place  where  the 
riders  are  weighed.  The  second  story  is  reached  by  a flight 
of  stone  steps,  running  the  entire  length  of  the  building.  It 
is  open  in  front,  with  the  seats  slightly  raised  toward  the  rear, 
and  now  filled  with  the  wealth,  beauty,  and  intellect  of 
Shanghai  and  other  foreign  towns  in  China.  At  the  rear  of 
these  seats  the  band  is  placed.  The  top  of  the  building  is 
graded,  and  comfortable  seats  placed. there.  Over  the  front 
steps  an  awning  is  placed,  and  from  staffs  in  front  float  the 
English,  American,  French,  and  Prussian  ensigns.  To  the 
right  of  the  stand  is  a fine  two-story  hotel,  on  the  upper  bal- 
cony of  which  are  many  spectators.  In  the  rear  of  the  stand 
are  the  stables  for  the  horses,  and  in  front  is  the  judges 
stand.  Close  by,  on  a pole,  is  suspended  a scale,  with  the 
number  of  the  horses  which  are  about  to  run.  Both  ladies 
and  gentlemen  have  their  betting  books  out,  and  almost 
every  one  stakes  something. 

“ They  are  off*!”  says  some  one  close  by  me,  and  turning 
around  I see  some  fifteen  or  twenty  horses  dash  past,  with 
riders  dressed  in  tight  buckskin  trowsers,  and  different  col- 
ored jackets  and  skull-caps.  The  English  flat-races  are  all 
new  to  me,  but  it  is  certainly  a splendid  and  exciting  sight  to 
see  so  many  horses  with  riders  thus  gaily  dressed,  start  off 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


323 


together,  with  whip  and  spur  urged  forward  to  their  utmost 
speed.  And  great  is  the  excitement  as  one  gains,  then  loses, 
another  gains,  loses,  and  so  on  until  at  last  they  reach  the 
gaol.  The  race  over,  the  victorious  horse  is  led  in  front  of 
the  grand  stand,  and  whilst  the  band  is  discoursing  some 
favorite  air,  the  prize  is  given.  That  day  there  were  seven 
races,  all  of  them  close  and  exciting.  The  last  one  was  the 
most  exciting  of  all,  because  the  greatest  sums  were  staked 
upon  it,  and  the  horse  against  whom  the  greatest  odds  had 
been  given  won  the  race.  Many  were  the  sad,  woeful  faces 
noticeable  in  consequence. 

I went  again  the  10th,  accompanied  by  a couple  of  friends. 
One  of  them  had  been  told  that  he  could  go  by  water  to  the 
race-ground,  and  not  feeling  very  well,  he  concluded  to  do  so, 
while  the  other  one  with  myself  decided  to  take  the  surer 
land  route.  Leaving  him  to  scull  his  sampan  up  the  creek 
past  the  English  consulate’s,  we  landed,  and  after  a pleasant 
walk  arrived  at  the  grounds,  some  time  before  the  race  be- 
gan. Just  after  the  second  race  our  missing  friend  made  his 
appearance,  looking  decidedly  heated  and  dusty  for  one  just 
off  from  an  aquatic  trip.  After  a few  good  wishes  for  his 
Chinese  boatmen,  he  cooled  down  sufficiently  to  inform  us 
that  the  lubber  had  taken  him  a long  way  into  the  country, 
and  that  finally  he  had  to  walk  a much  greater  distance  than 
he  would  had  he  come  with  us.  The  first  four  races  of  the 
day  were  flat  races  with  Chinese  ponies,  close  and  exciting, 
but  not  differing  materially  from  those  of  the  previous  day. 
The  fifth  race  was  a steeple-chase  for  all  horses — distance 
three  miles  around  the  course,  with  six  fences  and  six  ditches 
to  be  leaped  each  time  around.  Only  two  horses  started. 
Kangaroo  and  Miss  Mowbray.  The  former  took  and  kept 
the  lead,  doing  the  leaps  beautifully  and  making  the  three 
circuits  in  nine  minutes.  On  the  second  circuit  he  fell  over 
the  last  hurdle  or  fence,  turning  a complete  somersault  and 
throwing  the  rider,  but  inflicting  no  injury  other  than  bark- 


324 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


ing  his  nose  slightly.  However  he  quickly  recovered  and 
finished  the  race  without  further  accident. 

The  last  race  was  a scramble  for  all  ponies — distance, 
twice  around  the  course  for  steeple-chasing.  Eighteen  ponies 
started,  and  for  a long  time  it  was  impossible  to  conjecture 
which  would  be  the  winner.  Did  one  lead  between  two 
hurdles,  he  would  get  to  the  ditch  just  in  time  to  be  at  the 
bottom  of  all  the  others,  and  so  it  would  continue,  first  one 
and  then  another  taking  the  lead,  until  finally,  contrary  to  the 
expectation  of  everybody,  Potshot  came  in  first  ahead  of  half 
a dozen  competitors.  The  race  was  intensely  exciting  and 
amusing  from  beginning  to  end,  and  seemed  to  be  enjoyed  by 
all  more  than  any  other  race  of  the  day. 

Friday,  May  17th,  the  several  fire  companies  of  Shanghai 
had  a grand  parade  and  collation.  Our  fire  brigade  manned 
the  Hong  Que  steam  engine.  The  following  account  I clip 
from  the  Shanghai  Recorder  of  May  8 th : 

“The  trial  of  the  fire-engines  yesterday  evening  on  the 
Bund,  though  possibly  not  quite  so  successful,  in  a purely 
mechanical  point  of  view,  as  might  have  been  wished,  afforded 
much  amusement  and  attracted  a large  number  of  spectators. 
As  we  mentioned  in  a previous  issue,  the  nature  of  the  trial 
was  to  ascertain  which  engine  could  throw  water  the 
farthest,  both  perpendicularly  and  horizontally.  Two  boat’s 
crews  from  the  Wacliusett  were  in  attendance,  who,  after  the 
preliminary  arrangements  of  stationing  the  engines  and  ad- 
justing the  hose,  set  to  work  with  energy  upon  Shanghai  en- 
gine No.  1,  which  was  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Holcomb. 
It  soon,  however,  became  apparent  that  the  energy  of  the 
sons  of  Neptune  was  far  more  than  the  hose,  which  has  with- 
stood for  a lengthened  time  the  enervating  influences  of  the 
climate,  could  bear.  From  time  to  time  shouts  of  laughter 
arose  in  different  directions,  as  length  after  length  of  the  hose 
gave  way,  treating  the  spectators  to  a shower-bath  which, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


325 


however  cool  and  refreshing,  was  nevertheless  a shade 
stronger  than  was  expected  by  them.  The  hose  in  fact  show- 
ed unmistakably  that  it  was  not  unaffected  by  the  hardness  of 
the  times  and  had  a most  decided  tendency  to  “burst  up.”  The 
results  of  the  throwing  of  water,  though  satisfactory  in  one  or 
two  instances,  the  stream  having  gone  considerably  higher 
than  Messrs.  Dent  & Co’s  flagstaff,  cannot,  on  account  of 
the  defectiveness  of  the  hose,  be  taken  as  a sample  of  what 
the  engine,  under  more  favorable  circumstances,  would  have 
performed.  It  was  not  until  the  whole  of  the  available  hose 
had  been  tried  that  it  was  decided  to  replace  No.  1 Engine 
by  No.  2,  when  the  men  of  the  Wachusett  moved  her  off 
from  the  Custom  House  jetty  in  earnest  and  rapid  style,  No. 
2 Honggur  being  pulled  down  with  energy  and  rapidity  to 
take  her  place.  Indeed  she  was  tugged  along  with  such 
speed  that  it  required  as  much  energy  to  stop  her  before  she 
got  to  the  end  of  the  jetty. 

“The  Chinese  coolies  worked  away  at  her  with  pluck ; 
but  unfortunately  the  same  results  to  the  hose  soon  became 
apparent,  as  it  “burst  up”  in  one  or  two  places.  She  threw 
the  water  notwithstanding  to  a good  distance ; but  it  is  of 
course  quite  impossible  to  form  any  estimate  of  the  relative 
powers  of  the  two  engines  on  account  of  the  defectiveness  of 
the  hose  in  both  instances.  The  Chinese  will,  we  think,  re- 
quire some  little  drilling  before  they  are  able  to  turn  their 
powers  to  proper  account,  or  compete  with  the  gallant  sons  of 
Neptune.  The  Municipal  band  were  in  attendance  on  the 
Bund  and  enlivened  the  proceedings  by  playing  several 
pieces  ; and  a large  number  of  spectators  assembled  to  wit- 
ness the  trial. 

After  the  trial,  all  repaired  to  the  Imperial  Hotel,  where 
we  found  awaiting  us  an  inviting  repast  furnished  by  the  gen- 
erosity of  the  citizens  of  Shanghai. 

In  a ramble  within  the  walls  of  Shanghai  a few  weeks  ago 
I met  a French  priest,  called  Father  Yalleur,  with  whom  I 


326 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


formed  a very  pleasant  and  interesting  acquaintance.  Near- 
ly twenty  years  of  his  life  had  been  spent  among  the  Chinese, 
and  he  had  adopted  their  costume  and  spoke  their  language 
fluently.  He  was  able  therefore  to  penetrate  almost  any 
part  of  China,  and  learn  almost  everything  regarding  the 
manners,  laws,  customs,  and  religions  of  the  people.  I found 
him  to  be  a man  very  willing  to  converse  upon  any  subject, 
and  give  answers  to  all  my  numerous  questions.  The  few 
hours  that  I passed  in  his  society  were  full  of  interest  to  me, 
and  I really  believe  that  in  that  time  I learned  more  about 
China  than  I ever  did  before  in  as  many  weeks,  while  de- 
pending upon  my  own  observations  alone.  To  his  cordial  re- 
quest that  I would  call  upon  him  at  his  home,  I replied  that 
I should  by  no  means  deny  myself  so  much  pleasure  and 
profit,  as  to  neglect  to  further  cultivate  his  acquaintance. 

You  will  doubtless  remember  my  giving  you  a short  de- 
scription of  the  Confucian  or  State  system  of  religion — the 
first  of  the  three  sects  into  which  the  Chinese  are  divided.  I 
then  intended  to  give  you  some  account  of  the  other  systems 
whenever  a good  opportunity  should  offer  itself.  In  passing 
a pile  of  temple  buildings  near  the  southern  gate  of  Shanghai, 
Father  Yalleur  remarked  that  those  belonged  to  the  second 
sect,  which  is  called  Taou.  Upon  expressing  a desire  to 
learn  something  regarding  their  origin  and  tenets,  he  gave 
me  the  following  account : 

The  original  meaning  of  the  word  Taou  is,  a way  or  path , 
a principle — and  the  principle  from  which  heaven,  earth, 
man,  and  nature  emanate.  Le  is  th  e latent  principle,  and 
Taou  is  the  principle  in  action.  It  also  means  a word,  to 
preach,  and  to  say ; and  is  very  like  the  Logos,  or  the  “eter- 
nal reason”  of  the  Greeks.  The  founder  of  this  sect  was 
Laou-tau,  who  was  cotemporary  with  Confucius  ; but  the 
Taou,  or  Reason  itself,  they  say,  is  uncreated  and  underived. 
The  votaries  of  this  sect  speak  a great  deal  about  virtue,  and 
profess  to  obtain  a greater  degree  of  it,  by  abstraction  from 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


327 


the  world  and  the  repression  of  every  desire.  By  the  morti- 
fication of  every  feeling,  they  claim  to  obtain  perfect  virtue, 
and  to  this  end  some  of  its  votaries  leave  the  busy  haunts  of 
men,  and  alone  upon  the  mountain  tops  pursue  their  studies 
• uninterrupted.  They  affect  to  despise  fame,  wealth,  and  pos- 
terity, claiming  that  at  death  all  benefits  and  distinctions 
arising  from  them  cease,  and  the  labor  bestowed  upon  them 
is  thrown  away. 

Great  attention  is  paid  by  them  to  the  study  of  alchemy 
and  the  transmutation  of  metals  ; and  by  the  combination  of 
various  elements,  they  endeavor  to  produce  the  philosopher’s 
stone,  and  the  elixir  of  immortality.  Some  claim  to  have 
discovered  an  antidote  to  death,  and  when  the  administra- 
tion of  the  heavenly  potion  does  not  produce  the  desired 
effect,  they  assert  that  the  victim  has  only  gone  to  ramble 
with  the  genii,  and  enjoy  that  immortality  above  which  can- 
not be  found  below. 

It  is  narrated  that  a certain  emperor,  having  procured  the 
elixir  at  an  immense  expense,  ordered  it  to  be  brought  be- 
fore him.  But  while  it  was  on  its  way  from  the  compounder 
to  the  throne,  one  of  his  officers  drained  the  contents  of 
the  cup.  This  so  enraged  the  emperor  that  he  immediate- 
ly ordered  the  offender  to  be  put  to  death.  He,  however, 
coolly  replied,  that  having  drank  the  elixir,  he  was  immortal ; 
either  all  their  efforts  to  terminate  his  existence  would  be 
in  vain,  or  else  the  whole  system  was  false.  After  a few 
minutes’  consideration  the  minister  was  pardoned,  and  the 
pretender  banished  from  the  empire. 

While  the  Confucians  have  hardly  determined  whether 
spirits  exist  or  not,  the  Taou  sect,  is  founded  mainly  upon 
their  existence,  and  they  profess  to  have  intercourse  with,  and 
control  over  the  demons  of  the  invisible  world.  Chang-teen- 
eze,  the  principal  of  the  Taou  sect  in  China,  is  supposed  to 
be  immortal,  like  the  Lama  of  Thibet,  (or  rather  the  place 
is  supplied  with  a new  occupant  as  soon  as  the  old  one  dies,) 


328 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


and  assumes  an  authority  over  Hades.  As  the  emperor  ap- 
points officers  over  certain  districts  and  removes  them  at 
will,  so  does  this  demon  ruler  appoint  and  remove  deities, 
and  no  tutelary  deity  is  to  be  worshiped  or  is  supposed  to 
have  power  to  protect  his  votaries,  until  authorized  by 
him  to  exercise  his  functions  in  the  particular  region. 

From  the  power  which  this  individual  is  supposed  to  pos- 
sess, everything  coming  from  him  is  considered  to  be  effica- 
cious in  counteracting  all  noxious  influences,  and  is  sold  at 
an  enormous  price. 

The  Taou  priests  issue  charms,  or  amulets,  consisting  of 
small  scraps  of  yellow  paper,  with  a few  enigmatical  charac- 
ters written  upon  them,  from  the  sale  of  which  they  realize 
large  sums  of  money.  These  charms  are  efficacious  for  only 
one  year,  and  new  scraps  have  to  be  obtained  to  frighten 
away  the  imps  of  the  new  year. 

After  a death,  the  house  in  which  it  occurred  has  to  be 
purified,  and,  as  this  ceremony  is  attended  by  considerable 
expense,  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  lodgers  and  strangers, 
when  dying,  to  be  turned  out  into  the  streets.  The  purifi- 
cation of  houses  is  done  by  the  prayers  and  sacrifices  of  the 
priests.  A district  is  usually  purified  by  the  votaries  of  Taou, 
going  barefoot  over  ignited  charcoal.  But  the  anniversary 
of  the  birth  of  the  “ high  emperor  of  the  sombre  heavens”  is 
an  occasion  most  worthy  of  notice.  The  introductory  cere- 
monies consist  in  chanting  of  prayers,  ringing  of  bells,  the 
sprinkling  of  holy  water,  the  blowing  of  horns,  and  the 
brandishing  of  swords.  A large  fire,  some  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  in  diameter,  is  made  before  the  temple  of  this  imaginary 
being,  and  the  performers  strike  and  beat  this  with  the 
swords  in  order  to  subdue  the  demon.  They  then  dash 
through  the  flames,  barefoot,  preceded  by  the  priests  car- 
rying the  gods  in  their  arms.  The  entire  affair  presents  a 
scene  of  the  wildest  excitement,  and  all  the  participants  act 
more  like  madmen  than  rational  beings. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


329 


The  Taou  sect  worship  a variety  of  idols,  some  of  which 
are  imaginary  incarnations  of  Eternal  Reason ; and  others, 
rulers  of  the  invisible  world,  or  presiding  divinities  of  various 
districts  ; among  the  rest  are  the  “three  pure  ones,”  who  are 
first  in  dignity  ; the  “pearly  emperor,”  and  “supreme  ruler,” 
the  most  honorable  in  heaven  ; the  god  of  the  north,  the  god 
of  fire,  with  lares  and  penates,  genii  and  inferior  divinities 
without  number. 

My  first  introduction  to  the  Cremorne  Gardens  was  one 
pleasant  evening  in  June  when  a number  of  us  took  a horse- 
back ride  thither.  These  are  situated  about  three  miles  back 
of  French  Concession,  and  to  which  we  have  since  usually 
extended  our  almost  daily  rides.  Immediately  after  landing 
we  sent  “boys”  after  some  horses  and  a few  minutes  later 
they  appeared  with  them.  Horses  ! did  I say  ? Like  the  old 
saying  about  tailors  it  would  take  at  least  nine  of  them  to 
make  one.  Small,  poor,  scraggy,  blind,  lame, — well,  not 
worth  the  space  I am  devoting  to  their  description.  But  it 
was  too  late  to  wait  for  any  better  ones,  so  we  concluded  to 
take  them  and  do  the  best  we  could.  G.  got  the  best  one,  D. 
the  next  best,  and  I by  far  the  poorest.  Well!  mounted  and 
armed  with  good  cudgels  away  we  started.  G.  was  off  like 
an  arrow,  D.  close  after  and  I — I couldn’t  make  my  horse  go 
faster  than  a walk,  and  sometimes  not  that  even.  At  last  we 
got  the  better  of  him,  G.  took  position  ahead,  D.  behind,  and 
with  all  our  combined  efforts,  we  finally  got  him  “under 
way,”  and  thus  proceeded  to  Cremorne  Gardens.  The  ride 
was  amusing,  if  not  pleasant,  and  exciting  if  not  interesting. 
The  night  was  dark,  so  that  we  saw  comparatively  nothing  of 
the  country,  and  the  gardens  were  closed,  so  that  after  resting 
our  horses  a few  moments,  we  returned  with  a repetition  of 
the  amusing  and  exciting  ride,  that  we  had  when  going  out. 

Not  satisfied  with  this  visit  to  the  much  talked  of  Cremorne, 
a few  days  later  another  and  larger  party  was  organized  to 
go  out  there.  As  before,  we  sent  out  for  horses,  which  were 
15* 


330 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


speedily  brought  us.  They  did  not,  however,  suit  our  exact 
tastes  and  remembering  the  experience  of  the  former  night, 
we  determined  to  go  to  the  stables  and  choose  for  ourselves. 
Arriving  there  first,  I selected,  as  I thought,  a fine,  high  spir- 
ited animal,  and  with  a glance  at  the  girths  I mounted.  But 
very  few  horses  are  seen  in  China  and  all  these  are  owned 
by  the  more  wealthy  Europeans,  who  import  them  solely  for 
their  own  private  use.  Still  there  are  a large  number  of  na- 
tive ponies  seen  everywhere.  These  are  small,  but  smart, 
capable  of  enduring  an  immense  amount  of  fatigue,  and  \jrill 
go  like  the  wind.  They  are  quite  cheap  riding  too,  a good 
one,  all  equipped,  costing  less  than  a dollar  per  day. 

Well,  after  some  little  difficulty  and  delay,  all  were  suited. 
We  mounted,  and  with  the  ponies’  noses  turned  Cremorne- 
ward,  away  we  started  upon  a race  over  as  fine,  level,  smooth 
and  pleasant  a road  as  I ever  saw.  The  way  was  skirted  on 
either  hand  by  beautiful,  smiling  fields  of  rice,  cotton,  grains, 
and  vegetables,  and  the  entire  country  was  evidently  in  the 
highest  state  of  cultivation.  The  landscape,  dotted  with  pretty 
villages  and  towns,  snug  farm-houses  and  rural  hamlets,  mo- 
nasteries, temples,  and  graves,  stretched  away  in  one  vast  con- 
tinuous plain,  some  eighteen  or  twenty  miles,  and  melted 
into  the  high,  blue  hills  beyond. 

Upon  leaving  the  city  and  passing  the  old  tree  near  the 
northeastern  corner  of  the  walls,  my  mind  would  dwell  upon 
the  train  of  thought  which  this  same  tree  called  forth  from  a 
distinguished  writer  twenty  years  ago  : 

“There  is  a delicious,  eloquent  communion,  to  be  held  with 
one  of  these  single  old  trees  standing  in  a vast  plain,  and  you 
and  he  entirely  alone — no  fellows  of  his  kind,  and  none  of 
yours.  I have  enjoyed  it  on  this  day  as  I did  in  other  re- 
gions. Just  as  the  sun  is  setting,  and  you  are  hurrying  on 
your  way  to  escape  the  shadows  and  wanderings  of  the  night, 
the  old  fellow  beckons  to  you  with  a long  and  giant  arm. 
Your  heart  turns  to  him,  but  yopr  eyes  are  on  the  big  falling 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


331 


sun,  and  you  think  you  will  push  on ; but  there  is  so  much 
beseeching  in  his  moving  arms,  he  is  so  lonely  you  rein  up 
your  horse  to  have  a talk.  He  tells  you  of  his  chronology — 
of  the  vast  and  wavy  sapling  herds  which  stood  around  him 
in  his  green  youth ; how  man  and  storm  and  disease  had 
taken  all  but  himself ; how  he  had  looked  down  upon  race 
changed  for  race — plain  for  city,  and  city  again  for  field. 
While  you  are  thus  absorbed  by  his  eloquence,  the  shades  of 
night  are  around  you  both,  and  he  grows  more  animated  as 
they  fall  around  him.  You  bid  him  good-bye,  and  he  waves 
you  such  a farewell,  as  his  arms  pass  into  the  night  shadows, 
as  seems  to  dismiss  you  into  eternity,  while  he  promises  to 
wait  there  and  tell  the  same  story,  and  yours,  too,  to  some 
traveler  of  a future  age,  who  may  stand  in  your  place.  There 
are  few  places  where  an  old  tree  could  tell  more  than  one  of 
these  standing  on  the  plains  of  China,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Yang-tse-Kiang,  and  near  the  walls  of  Shanghai.” 

Now,  to  return  to  the  race.  G led  at  first,  but  I soon 

passed  him  and  was  going  at  the  “ rate  of  sixteen  knots  per 
hour,”  when  away  went  the  starboard  stirrup-strap,  and  was 
compelled  to  “ haul  up  ” for  repairs.  By  the  time  I had 
completed  them  I was  left  far  behind ; but,  as  the  others 
were  riding  slowly  I soon  caught  up,  and  away  we  went 
again.  A break-neck  pace  for  about  a mile  and  I had  passed 
them  all  but  D.,  and  for  a long  time  we  were  “ neck  and 
neck.”  I don’t  know  howr  the  race  would  have  terminated, 
for,  after  a few  minutes’  riding  thus,  away  wTent  my  other 
stirrup-strap,  and  again  I had  to  “ halt”  for  repairs.  A mo- 
ment after  J.  came  up,  and  just  after  passing  me  his  pony 
wheeled  around  (as  they  ofttimes  will,  unless  a strict  look-out 
is  kept)  and  he  “ hove  to  like  a fillyloo  bird  on  a fence or, 
in  common  parlance  was  unhorsed  as  prettily  as  I ever  saw 
any  one,  and  plunged  head  foremost  into  a pool  of  dirty  wa- 
ter, without,  however,  injuring  him  in  the  least.  So  long 
vras  I in  making  repairs  this  time  that  I was  the  last  to 


332 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


reach  the  Gardens.  Giving  my  pony  into  the  care  of  a 
“boy”  I went  into  the  house,  where  I found  the  others  en- 
joying themselves  at  the  billiard  table. 

Whenever  you  feel  very  thirsty  on  a hot,  sultry  day,  if  you 
have  the  ingredients  at  hand,  just  mix  a mint-julep  after  Del- 
cour’s  receipt,  and  see  if  it  don’t  refresh  you  as  nought  ever 
did  before.  To  one-third  of  a glass  of  milk  he  added  a little 
wine  and  a lump  of  sugar,  then  filling  the  glass  up  and  put- 
ting in  some  bruised  leaves  of  fresh  mint  he  told  me  to  “taste 
it.”  Nectar,  egad.  I thought  I had  never  tasted  drink  be- 
fore so  delicious  and  refreshing. 

Leaving  the  others  to  amuse  themselves  in  their  games,  I 
lit  a cigar  and  went  out  for  a look  at  the  house,  grounds,  and 
views.  The  house  is  quite  a large,  one  story  structure,  di- 
vided up  into  bar,  billiard,  sitting,  and  dining  rooms.  Run- 
ning entirely  around  the  building  is  a fine,  deep  verandah, 
protected  by  rolling  blinds,  or  shades,  and  finely  fitted  up 
with  card-tables  and  lounging-chairs.  It  stands  upon  a slight 
but  beautiful  eminence  (the  only  one  in  sight)  near  the  cen- 
tre of  the  grounds.  These  comprise  about  ten  acres,  taste- 
fully laid  out  in  walks  and  drives,  ornamented  by  fine  shrub- 
bery, and  plants,  and  beautiful  flowers,  and  with  charming 
little  summer-houses  scattered  all  over  them.  It  is  but  a few 
years  since  the  Gardens  were  laid  out,  consequently  the  shrub- 
bery and  vines  are  quite  young  and  small  yet ; but,  in  the 
course  of  time  this  will  be  the  most  beautiful  place  about 
Shanghai.  Even  now  it  is  a favorite  place  of  resort  on  hot 
summer  days  for  many  of  the  citizens,  and  those  visiting 
Shanghai.  There  they  sit  on  the  wide,  deep  verandah,  en- 
joying the  cool  breezes  in  quiet,  or  admiring  the  beautiful 
prospect  on  every  side,  or  engaging  in  games  and  socialities 
with  one  another;  or,  perchance,  they  ramble  about  the 
lovely  grounds  with  a rest  and  a chat  in  one  of  the  summer- 
houses or  arbors,  and  food  and  refreshments  in  the  house. 

I was  startled  out  of  a little  reverie,  into  which  I had  fallen 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


333 


in  one  of  the  summer-houses,  by  one  of  the  party’s  coming 
in  and  bidding  me  wake  up  and  get  ready  for  a ride  to  Sek- 
a-wai — a place  some  three  miles  farther  back,  and  the  site  of 
a Roman  Catholic  college  and  nunnery. 

Our  horses  were  led  out,  all  equiped,  so  we  mounted  and 
rode  leisurely  along,  the  better  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  scenery, 
and  the  many  items  of  interest.  Among  other  things  we 
noticed  on  our  way  several  low,  square  towers  with  a hole 
near  the  top  on  one  side.  These  are  houses  built  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  bodies  of  dead  babies  who  are  found  thus  or 
are  put  to  death  by  their  parents.  Female  infants  being  of 
less  value  than  males  make  up  the  great  mass  of  those  with 
which  these  towers  are  filled.  These,  with  a provincial  Wei- 
Kwei,  may  be  noticed  near  every  place  which  we  have  vis- 
ited. The  latter  is  the  council  hall  of  those  who  belong  to 
another  province,  but  reside  for  a time  at  Shanghai,  and  is 
also  used  as  a place  of  deposit  for  their  dead  until  they  can 
be  moved  to  their  own  province.  The  way  side  resting  places 
for  travelers,  provided  by  the  authorities,  I have  noticed  be- 
fore, but  think  that  I,  as  yet,  have  given  no  description  of 
them.  They  consist  of  merely  a low  tiled  roof  supported  by 
a brick  or  stone  pillar  at  each  corner,  and  covering  low  stone 
benches. 

Nothing  of  special  interest  occurred  to  the  party  on  the 
ride  out,  with  the  exception  of  breaking  an  occasional  stirrup- 
strap  or  saddle  girth,  and  a harmless  unhorsing.  My  absorp- 
tion in  what  was  about  me  was  broken  several  times  by  the 
curious  capers  of  my  pony,  who,  on  two  or  three  occasions 
rode  down  others  of  the  party.  Finally,  when  I was  busily 
engaged  in  admiring  the  tiled  roofs  of  the  one-story  cottages, 
with  peaked  and  carved  gables  rising  just  above  the  line  of 
high  hedge  fences,  the  eccentric  animal  coolly  walked  over 
the  edge  of  the  high  bank  of  the  canal  along  which  we  were 
passing,  and  rolled  with  me  to  the  bottom.  Fortunately  there 
was  no  water  in  the  canal  at  the  time,  so  I escaped  with  a 


334 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


few  slight  bruises,  and  the  soiling  and  rending  of  my  clothes.' 
There  was  no  need  of  examining  the  pony  to  discover  if  he 
was  hurt,  for  they  are  like  India-rubber ; and  really,  I have 
no  doubt  but  that  the  whole  affair  was  viewed  by  him  as  a 
fine  frolic.  It  certainly  was  by  the  whole  party,  anxiety  for 
my  preservation  not  being  able  to  repress  their  mirth  and 
uproarious  laughter.  I think  my  mind  suffered  most  by  the 
roll,  for  it  had  soared  high  in  contemplating  the  picturesque- 
ness of  my  surroundings,  and  the  fall  was  as  great  as  it  was 
abrupt. 

At  Sik-a-wai,  according  to  the  usual  custom,  we  were  cor- 
dially and  politely  received  by  the  French  and  Italian  priests, 
and  by  them  shown  over  the  college  buildings.  These  are 
quite  fine  and  commodious,  and  kept  in  admirable  order. 
There  are  at  present  upwards  of  five  hundred  children  under 
instruction  there ; and,  as  I watched  them  at  their  various 
amusements  I could  not  help  acknowledging  that  they  were  a 
very  bright,  happy  body.  They  are  generally  the  children 
of  Roman  Catholic  parents,  although  there  are  some  orphans 
whom  they  have  taken.  I was  greatly  struck  and  much 
pleased  by  the  many  articles  of  modeling,  sculpture,  and 
painting,  which  I saw  about  the  buildings,  executed  by  the 
teachers  and  students. 

After  about  an  hour  spent  in  a survey  of  the  buildings  and 
grounds,  we  returned  to  the  gardens  where  we  found  the  din- 
ner, which  we  had  ordered,  awaiting  us,  and  to  which  we  did 
ample  justice  after  our  long  ride.  After  a game  or  two  of 
billiards  we  returned  to  the  ship. 

This  synopsis  of  one  day’s  enjoyment,  which  I have  given, 
will  answer  for  many  others  which  we  have  had,  and  antici- 
pate having,  during  our  stay  at  Shanghai,  and  by  which  we 
lessen  what  would  otherwise  be  an  almost  unendurable  long- 
ing for  home  and  friends.  The  effects  are  seen  in  the  spirit 
of  happiness  and  contentment  which  pervades  the  entire  crew, 
as  evinced  in  their  looks  and  demeanor  towards  one  another; 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


335 


in  the  almost  entire  absence  of  quarrels  and  fights,  and  in 
the  lightness  of  spirits  which  nightly  bursts  forth  in  choruses 
that  make  the  ship  fairly  tremble  and  can  be  heard  for  miles. 
It  is  evinced,  too,  in  the  alacrity  and  dispatch  with  which  any 
required  work  is  performed,  and  in  the  many  sports  which 
have  been  revived  and  inaugurated.  In  arriving  at  this  de- 
sirable state  of  affairs  many  thanks  and  much  credit  are  due 
to  the  officers,  who,  in  striving  to  lessen  the  hardships  and 
unpleasantness  of  shipboard  existence  in  avoiding  all  unneces- 
sary work  and  exercise,  and  in  the  privileges  bestowed,  can- 
not fail  to  have  added  greatly  to  their  own  happiness.  It 
seems  strange  to  me  that  this  state  is  so  seldom  reached,  but 
in  almost  every  man-of-war  in  our  navy,  man  is  considered 
but  little  better  than  a brute  or  a mere  machine,  and  is  treated 
thus,  according  to  the  “ ola  custom.”  Let  us  hope  that  at  no 
distant  day  those  that  man  our  war  vessels  will  be  treated 
more  like  men,  and  then  will  be  seen  a more  efficient  Navy 
than  has  heretofore  existed. 


336 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XXXIV. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Shanghai, 

July  27th,  1867. 

My  Dear  R. : 

At  last  the  repairs  upon  our  engine  are  completed,  and  our 
pleasant  and  interesting  stay  of  three  months  and  a half  at 
Shanghai  is  about  to  be  brought  to  a close.  I as  yet  have 
heard  no  definite  announcement  as  to  whither  our  future  move- 
ments will  tend,  but  the  general  expectation  derived  from  the 
many  rumors  is  that  we  are  soon  to  start  for  home,  returning 
by  nearly  the  same  route  as  we  came  out.  I am  not  very 
particular  by  what  route  we  go,  but  I do  hope  that  we  may 
start  very  soon. 

A few  months  ago  an  American  bark  was  wrecked  off  the 
coast  of  the  island  of  Formosa,  and  most  of  the  crew,  con- 
sisting of  the  captain  and  wife,  two  mates,  and  four  European 
and  seven  Chinese  sailors  were  murdered  by  the  natives.  One 
Chinaman  escaped  and  also  the  captain’s  wife,  who  is  said  to 
be  still  a prisoner  in  their  hands. 

The  Ashuelot,  after  parting  company  with  us  last  April, 
proceeded  to  Formosa  and  in  conjunction  with  H.  B.  M.’s 
gunboat  Cormorant  landed  an  armed  party  to  learn  further 
particulars  of  the  affair  if  possible.  In  this,  however,  they 
were  unsuccessful,  and  being  fired  upon  by  the  natives  they 
concluded  to  postpone  investigations  until  they  could  commu- 
nicate with  the  Admiral,  who  was  then  in  Japan  with  the 
flagship  Hartford,  and  the  Wyoming.  He  arrived  at  Shang- 
hai, with  both  these  vessels  in  the  early  part  of  June,  and 
about  the  middle  of  the  same  month  he  left  for  Formosa. 
We  should  have  accompanied  the  expedition,  if  our  engines 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


337 


had  been  in  a condition  to  admit  of  our  doing  so,  but  they 
were  not.  About  a week  after  their  departure,  they  return- 
ed, and  considerable  excitement  was  caused  by  the  news  of 
their  movements,  and  deeds  while  away.  Although  I have 
heard  many  versions  of  the  affair  from  actual  participators,  I 
know  of  no  more  concise  and  truthful  account,  than  the  fol- 
lowing which  I copy,  from  the  Shanghai  Recorder  of  June 
20th,  and  which  is  regarded  as  semi-official. 

“The  American  Arms  at  Formosa.” 

“A  few  days  since  the  U.  S.  Ship  Hartford,  bearing  the  flag 
of  Rear  Admiral  H.  H.  Bell,  accompanied  by  the  U.  S. 
steamer  Wyoming,  Lieutenant-Commander  Charles  Carpen- 
ter, left  the  port  of  Shanghai  for  the  south  point  of  Formosa, 
to  punish  the  Natives  who  inhabit  that  part  of  the  island,  for 
their  murder  of  the  crew  of  the  American  Bark  Rover,  which 
was  wrecked  there  in  March  last ; and  if  possible  to  destroy 
any  of  their  settlements  which  might  be  found  in  the  vicinity, 
and  to  clear  the  country  of  the  dense  jungle  which  enables 
the  savages  to  attack  shipwrecked  parties,  and  to  conceal 
themselves  when  attacked.  On  their  way  down  the  vessels 
touched  at  Takao  for  an  interpreter,  and  received  on  board 
Charles  Carroll,  Esq.,  H.  B.  M/s  Consul,  who  had  expressed 
a desire  to  go  with  the  expedition. 

“ On  the  morning  of  the  13th  inst.,  the  ship  anchored  off 
South  Cape,  and  a party  of  sailors  and  marines,  numbering 
in  all  one  hundred  and  eighty  men,  were  landed  under  com- 
mand of  Commander  G.  E.  Belknap  of  the  Hartford,  the 
object  being  to  destroy  lurking-places,  houses  and  cattle  of 
the  Natives.  After  landing,  the  force  in  two  detach- 
ments marched  into  the  interior,  and  burnt  a collection  of 
huts  which  were  found.  Here  the  savages  manifested  an 
intention  to  dispute  the  march  of  the  column,  by  firing  from 
every  hill-top  and  jungle.  The  men  of  the  squadron  were 
seldom  able  to  get  a sight  of  the  enemy,  and  only  knew  of 


338 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


their  proximity  by  the  discharge  of  their  muskets  from  the 
jungle  and  the  gleaming  of  their  gunbarrels  above  the  foli- 
age. 

“ The  savages  by  quick  marches  were  driven  from  every 
hiding-place,  and  by  3 P.  M.  were  forced  three  miles  into  the 
interior.  The  sun  now  began  to  tell  upon  the  men,  the  ther- 
mometer standing  at  92°  in  the  shade,  and  several  suffering 
severely  from  sunstroke,  it  was  concluded  to  return  to  the 
ship.  While  at  a halt,  a party  of  the  enemy  fired  a volley 
from  ambush,  at  short  range  into  the  column.  Lieutenant 
Commander  McKenzie,  chief  of  staff,  who  had  volunteered 
for  the  expedition,  immediately  led  a charge  against  them, 
and  while  at  the  head  of  his  men  was  shot,  dying  almost  im- 
mediately. 

“ After  driving  the  enemy  again  into  the  interior,  and  be- 
ing unable  to  penetrate  it  further,  and  there  being  no  further 
object  to  be  gained  by  remaining,  the  column  returned  to  the 
ship,  carrying  with  them  the  body  of  Lieutenant-Commander 
McKenzie,  and  several  of  the  officers  and  crew,  who  were  dan- 
gerously ill  with  sunstroke.  Having  burned  their  huts,  and 
the  jungle  being  too  green  to  burn,  the  following  day  the  ves- 
sels returned  to  Takao,  where  the  remains  of  Lieutenant 
.Commander  Me  Kenzie  were  interred  with  military  honors 
in  the  private  burying  grounds  of  the  British  Consulate,  the 
use  of  which  had  been  kindly  offered  by  Mr.  Carroll.” 

There  are  various  opinions  and  rumors  concerning  this 
affair  and  many  conjectures  as  to  what  is  to  be  done  in  the 
future ; but  all  seem  agreed  that  as  soon  as  it  is  cooler  weath- 
er, and  the  undergrowth  dry  enough  to  burn,  another  and  a 
much  larger  expedition  will  be  formed  against  the  Formosans, 
and  every  precaution  taken  to  ensure  success. 

u Three  pirates  were  condemned  to  be  executed  about  a 
week  since,  and  if  you  would  learn  another  mode  of  Chinese 
executions,  you  can  do  so  by  going  within  the  walls  to  the 
city  prison,”  said  a citizen  friend  to  me  some  time  ago. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


339 


Having  business  within  the  walls  that  same  afternoon  I deter- 
mined to  go  to  the  prison , and  arriving  there  I witnessed  a 
mode  of  execution,  at  once  the  most  shocking  and  barbarous? 
and  beyond  what  I thought  it  possible  for  the  human  mind  to 
conceive.  The  victims  were  placed  in  cages,  some  three  feet 
square  and  seven  feet  high,  made  of  stout  bamboo  splints.  The 
head  of  each  one  was  thrust  through  a hole  in  a board,  or 
rather  placed  between  two  sections  of  a board,  so  fashioned 
that  when  joined  together  one  edge  was  in  the  mouth  and  the 
other  pressed  against  the  lower  and  back  part  of  the  head, 
both  sections  meeting  at  the  extremities.  By  these  boards, 
they  were  triced  up  so  that  their  toes  barely  touched  the  bot- 
tom of  the  cage  and  then  left  without  food  or  drink  under  the 
guardianship  of  merciless  Chinese  soldiers  until  released  by 
death.  When  I saw  them  they  had  been  in  that  situation  for 
nearly  six  days.  T wo  died  the  day  before,  and  the  other  was 
dying  then.  The  look  of  agony  which  I saw  portrayed  on 
their  countenances  I never  care  to  witness  again ; it  was  hor- 
rible beyond  anything  the  mind  can  conceive  of,  and  utterly 
defies  description. 

In  returning  from  witnessing  this  horrible  sight  I was  join- 
ed by  friend  A who,  like  myself  had  never  seen  a small 

foot,  uncovered,  and  upon  the  subject  being  mentioned  we 
determined  to  gratify  our  curiosity  in  that  respect  that  very 
afternoon.  For  this  purpose  we  secured  the  services  of  a 
little  Chinese  bdy  who  said  that  he  could  guide  us  where  we 
could  see  one.  He  took  us  to  a house  near  the  walls,  where 
resided  his  mother  and  sister.  For  a longtime  both  persist- 
ently refused  all  our  entreaties,  arguments  or  proposals,  but 
at  length,  for  the  promised  reward  of  half  a dollar,  the  sister 
consented  to  uncover  the  foot.  The  shoe  and  stocking  hav- 
ing been  removed,  several  layers  of  bandages  had  to  be  un- 
wound before  our  curiosity  could  be  gratified.  Then  we  saw 
an  ugly,  ill-shapen  mass,  no  toe  excepting  the  great  one  in 
sight,  that  stunted  and  deformed,  and  the  others  turned  under 


340 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


and  grown  into  the  bottom  of  the  foot ; the  heel  about  one 
and  one-half  inches  long,  and  the  bridge  of  the  foot  pressed 
up  into  the  ancle,  and  there  forming  a large  bulb.  The  foot 
thus  compressed  takes  a shoe  only  about  four  inches  long  and 
two  wide  at  the  instep,  terminating  in  a point  at  the  toe. 
When  a child  is  quite  young  the  foot  is  encased  in  iron  shoes, 
and  kept  there  until  the  foot  is  stunted  in  its  growth. 

The  current  statement  of  the  origin  of  the  custom  of  crip- 
ling  ladies’  feet  is  that  Ta-ke,  a wicked  empress  in  the  third 
century  before  the  Christian  era,  during  the  Tsin  dynasty, 
influenced  her  husband  to  issue  an  edict,  obliging  the  Chinese 
ladies  to  make  the  Empress  club  feet  the  standard. 

The  custom  is  less  prevalent  than  it  was  a century  ago, 
and  is  slowly  falling  into  disuse.  Probably  not  more  than 
one-fourth  or  one-third  of  the  ladies  of  the  present  day  con- 
tract their  feet,  and  those  belong  to  the  aristocratic  class. 

When  sitting  down  their  feet  do  look  quite  cunning  and 
pretty,  encased  in  those  cunning  little  shoes  prettily  embos- 
sed and  embroidered ; but  when  they  attempt  to  walk,  or 
lay  bare  the  foot,  admiration  instantly  changes  to  pity  or  dis- 
gust. 

The  “glorious  Fourth”  was  duly  celebrated  here,  and 
although  quite  rainy,  it  was  well-enjoyed  by  the  participators. 
All  the  vessels  in  the  harbor  crossed  to  ’gallant  yards  and 
dressed  ship  with  the  American  ensign  at  the  main,  the  flag- 
staffs  of  the  Consuls  and  other  leading  men  $f  Shanghai  were 
also  dressed,  and  from  many  a balcony  the  glorious  Stars  and 
Stripes  were  flung  out  to  the  breeze.  At  sunrise  and  at  sun- 
set the  American  Consul  fired  a salute  of  thirty-seven  guns, 
from  four  little  pieces  of  cannon  w hich  he  had  mounted  in 
front  of  his  office.  Murphy,  “the  Irish  Consul”  did  likewise, 
and  a continual  firing  of  guns,  crackers,  etc.,  was  kept  up 
from  morning  till  night,  with  a fine  display  of  fireworks  in 
the  evening.  Notwithstanding  it  was  contrary  to  port  regu- 
lations the  Admiral  fired  a national  salute  at  noon,  having 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


341 


sent  word  to  the  authorities,  beforehand,  that  he  intended  to 
do  so,  and  would  not  be  responsible  for  broken  windows  nor 
any  other  damage  that  might  be  occasioned  by  so  doing.  The 
dinner  was  in  every  respect  a success,  an  advance  even  on 
that  of  last  Christmas,  and  everything  was  done  by  “the  pow- 
ers that  be”  to  make  the  day  a happy  and  a joyous  one.  By 
an  order  from  the  Admiral  no  one  was  allowed  to  go  on 
shore,  as  so  many  English  sailors  were  on  liberty,  and  on  this 
particular  day,  the  chances  were  in  favor  of  there  being  re- 
kindlings of  the  old  revolutionary  spirit. 

The  great  excitement  and  principal  topic  of  conversation 
during  the  day,  as  well  as  many  preceding  and  following  it, 
were  the  boat-races  between  our  vessel  and  the  Hartford.  Af- 
ter the  many  challenges,  acceptances,  backing  outs,  &c,  the 
following  three  races  were  decided  upon  and  rowed : Our 

gig,  against  the  Hartford’s  second  cutter  against  the  barge, 
and  dingey  against  dingey.  The  distance  for  the  first  two  was 
about  five  miles,  and  the  starting  point  our  gangway.  At  4 
P.  M.  the  first  race,  that  of  the  gigs,  came  off,  for  a purse  of 
$150.00.  As  the  gun  was  fired  our  gig  started  off  splendid- 
ly, but  one  of  the  Hartford’s  crew  at  that  moment  took  a 
cramp  and  threw  two  oars  out  of  the  rowlocks.  Before  they 
could  get  righted,  our  boat  got  at  least  three  lengths  ahead. 
The  water  was  a little  rough  but  our  boat  being  heavy  in 
build,  paid  no  attention  to  that,  and  kept  gaining  steadily, 
while  the  Hartford’s  (like  that  of  the  Spanish  Consul’s,  which 
we  raced  a short  time  ago,)  would  fairly  jump  ahead  at  every 
stroke,  but  would  lose  her  headway  when  the  oars  were  lifted 
from  the  water.  Our  boat  turned  the  stake  nearly  half  a 
minute  first,  and  came  in  full  four  ship’s  lengths  ahead,  mak- 
ing the  distance  in  twenty-nine  minutes  and  twenty  seconds. 
As  the  gigs  came  in  both  ship’s  crews  “manned  the  riggings’’ 
and  the  buglers  struck  up  our  boat’s  call,  “The  Mocking 
Bird.”  The  barge  and  cutter,  both  twelve-oared  boats? 
were  already  manned,  and^immediately  took  up  their  position? 


342 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  Hartford’s  getting  the  choice.  The  race  was  for  a purse 
of  $120.00.  The  ships  had  now  swung  so  that  it  was  an 
exceedingly  bad  position  for  starting,  between  us  and  the 
Hartford.  Just  as  the  gun  was  fired  for  starting,  the  barge 
put  off  her  helm,  tossed  her  port  oars,  and  riding  our  star- 
board oars  broke  three  of  them ; then,  immediately  clearing 
herself  made  it  appear  as  if  it  were  all  done  according  to 
previous  intentions.  Cheer  after  cheer  went  up  from  the 
Hartford  over  this  maneuver ; but  even  with  our  boat  thus 
disabled,  the  barge  came  in  only  forty  seconds  ahead,  and 
then  had  the  race  declared  “foul”  by  both  umpires.  The 
dingey  race  came  next.  Distance  about  a mile  for  a purse 
of  $20.00.  Nearly  every  one  bet  on  the  Hartford’s  and  was 
certain  that  it  would  win,  but  ours  came  in  full  half  a ship’s 
length  ahead.  Three  days  after  the  Fourth,  the  race  between 
the  barge  and  cutter  was  tried  over  and  our  boat  won  by  near- 
ly a minute.  In  all  our  racing  we  have  never  yet  been  beat- 
en once,  but  still  fly  the  game  cock  with  no  one  able  to  take 
it  from  us,  and  freely  sing  our  chorus, 

For  any  amount  you  name 
Up  to  a thousand  pounds, 

We’ll  pull  any  boat,  in  a Shanghai  port, 

Or  a thousand  miles  around. 

The  most  intense  excitement  prevailed  during  all  the 
races ; riggings  were  manned  from  the  tip  of  the  flying  jib 
booms  to  the  royal-mast  trucks ; cheering,  throwing  over- 
board old  caps,  etc,  were  freely  indulged  in,  and  the  decks  of 
the  vessels  as  well  as  the  Bund  were  thronged  with  eager 
spectators.  All  seemed  to  regret  the  foul  race,  for,  with  that 
exception  everything  went  off  in  splendid  style. 

Since  we  have  been  in  Shanghai  this  last  time  I have  at- 
tended church  nearly  every  Sabbath  eve,  at  the  Episcopal 
chapel  of  the  Americans,  at  Hong  Que.  There  are  many 
reasons  why  I enjoy  going  there  very  much  ; the  church  is 
almost  always  full  of  American  citizens,  and  it  makes  me  feel 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


343 


for  the  time  almost  like  being  at  home  and  among  friends. 
The  singing  and  chanting  could  hardly  be  surpassed  any- 
where, and  the  beautiful  service  of  the  Episcopal  church  is 
most  impressively  read  by  the  rector,  while  the  discourses 
which  he  gives  are  ever  full  of  good,  plain,  practical  truths. 
Two  or  three  Sabbaths  ago  he  gave  us  a very  interesting  dis- 
course on  the  subject  of  “Missions  in  China.” 

Commencing  with  the  earliest  accounts  he  said  that  Assem- 
anus  assures  us  that  Thomas  the  Apostle,  having  done  much 
for  the  establishment  of  the  Christian  faith  in  India,  passed 
over  to  a country  in  the  East,  called  China,  where  he  preach- 
ed the  gospel,  and  founded  a church  in  the  city  of  Pekin.  In 
the  Chaldee  ritual  there  is  an  office  for  the  celebration  of  St. 
Thomas,  which  says  that  “by  him  the  Persians,  Hindoos,  and 
Chinese  were  converted  to  the  Christian  faith.”  In  confirm- 
ation of  this  he  spoke  of  the  early  intercourse  which  subsist- 
ed between  China  and  the  West,  stating  that  a Chinese  gen- 
eral, who  flourished  before  the  close  of  the  first  century,  ex- 
tended his  conquests  as  far  as  Arabia  and  Judea,  and  that  the 
famous  Kwan  Yunchang  had  left  in  writing  an  account  of  the 
birth,  death,  resurrection,  and  ascension  of  a Saviour  which 
must  have  been  derived  from  some  indistinct  traditions  of 
gospel  history. 

Chinese  history  further  mentions,  that  about  A.  D.  150,  an 
extraordinary  person  arrived  in  China,  who  taught  a doc- 
trine truly  spiritual ; and  drew  the  admiration  of  all  by  the 
virtues  he  possessed  and  the  miracles  he  wrought. 

The  next  intimation  of  the  introduction  of  Christianity  into 
China,  he  said  was  the  celebrated  marble  tablet  which  was 
dug  up  in  1625.  This  tablet  was  between  ten  and  eleven  feet 
long,  five  and  six  broad,  and  surmounted  by  a small  cross.  It 
contains  an  inscription  in  the  Chinese  and  Syriac  languages, 
describing  the  principal  doctrines  of  the  Bible  as  contained 
in  the  first  five  books  of  the  New  Testament,  and  the  history 
of  its  introduction  into  China.  The  inscription  states  that 


344 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


this  occurred  in  A.  D.  636,  and  under  the  reign  of  two  em- 
perors, the  preaching  of  the  Christian  religion  was  author- 
ized and  supported.  Then  the  Buddhist  priests,  jealous  of 
the  success  of  the  new  religion,  instituted  a persecution  against 
it,  which  for  a time  diminished  the  number  of  the  faithful ; 
but  after  a time,  two  able  advocates  were  raised  up,  who  soon 
brought  the  new  religion  into  notice  and  royal  favor  once 
more.  The  emperor,  Suth-tsung  founded  several  churches  ; 
and  in  order  to  perpetuate  his  good  deeds  the  tablet  was 
erected  A.  D.  782. 

Since  that  time  the  church  has  many  times  been  bitterly 
persecuted  in  China,  and  all  apparent  evidences  of  the  exist- 
ence of  Christianity  been  rooted  out ; still,  persevering  efforts 
Ix^ve  been  made,  and  Christianity  has  had  a foothold  since 
the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  century.  This  has  been 
slight  at  times,  and  held  by  the  Jesuits  alone  until  the  com- 
mencement of  the  present  century,  since  which  time  the 
Protestant  missions  have  been  gaining  in  numbers  and 
strength,  especially  during  the  past  few  years.  Instead  of 
beginning  at  the  top  of  society,  he  said  they  proposed  to  com- 
mence from  the  bottom,  and  aim  to  influence,  first,  the  ex- 
tremities, and  then  the  heart  of  the  empire.  With  the  love 
of  Christ  for  their  motive,  and  the  salvation  of  souls  for  their 
end  ; employing  Christian  benevolence  and  Christian  intelli- 
gence as  the  means,  and  depending  simply  and  solely  on  God 
for  His  blessing ; all  true  Christian  workers  may  hope  and 
believe  that,  though  slow  their  work  will  be  sure,  and  finally 
effectual. 

Another  visit  to  Father  V.  gave  me  an  insight  into  the 
laws  of  China.  These  are  numerous,  minute,  and  circum- 
stantial, and  are  more  worthy  to  be  compared  with  those  of 
civilized  nations  than  it  would  seem  possible  that  those  of  a 
heathen  country  could  be.  To  a foreigner  it  does  not  seem 
hardly  possible  to  have  such  an  immense  population  united 
under  one  government.  The  secret  of  their  success  lies  in 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


345 


the  establishment  of  the  patriarchal  system,  grounded  on  the 
basis  of  filial  obligation.  The  first  principle  in  their  moral 
code  is  that  parents,  having  brought  their  children  into  the 
world,  have  a right  to  dispose  of  them  as  they  think  best ; 
and  a child  is  never  released  from  duty  and  obedience  to  its 
parents  until  death. 

This  principle  forms  the  basis  of  their  political  code.  The 
emperor  is  considered  as  the  great  father  of  the  Chinese 
races,  and  as  such  has  absolute  power  over  all. 

As  he  cannot  attend  to  the  administration  of  all  the  affairs 
of  the  empire  in  person,  he  employs  ministers  which  are  des- 
ignated as  his  “feet,”  his  “hands,”  and  his  “eyes,”  but  there 
is  no  one  so  high  in  authority  but  that  he  can  be  degraded 
and  bambooed  at  the  pleasure  of  the  emperor. 

There  are  four  prime  ministers  forming  what  is  called  the 
“Inner  Cabinet.”  Two  of  these  are  Tartars  and  two  Chinese, 
the  usual  way  in  which  appointments  are  made  so  that  one 
party  may  watch  the  other. 

Under  these  are  six  tribunals  answering  somewhat  to  our 
Heads  of  Departments  ; the  Tribunal  of  Civil  Office,  of 
Means,  of  Rites,  of  War,  of  Punishments,  and  of  Works. 
Under  these  tribunals  are  officers  appointed  all  over  the 
country  who  report  to  them,  and  they  in  turn  to  the  emperor 
and  cabinet. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  government  of  the  immensely 
peopled  empire  of  China.  1 have  given  you  but  the  outline, 
because  I felt  sure  that  a more  lengthened  account  would  be 
wearisome  to  you.  It  is  now  the  “ kite  season  ” in  China 
and  in  closing  this  letter,  I will  say  a few  words  about  kite- 
flying. 

While  in  most  things  the  Chinese  are  no  farther  advanced 
than  they  were  ten  centuries  ago,  they  are  far  ahead  of  all 
young  Americas  in  the  kite  business.  They  have  many 
strange  customs,  and  not  the  least  funny  of  them  all,  is  the 
one  they  have  of  the  old  men  flying  kites  while  the  boys  look 
16 


346 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


on.  But  then  a Chinese  kite  is  an  elaborate  affair  in  com- 
parison with  the  tasteless  sexagons  and  octagons  with  which 
our  urchins  besprinkle  the  atmosphere.  Centipedes,  sixty  feet 
long,  composed  of  split  bamboo  hoops,  covered  with  light 
paper,  and  furnished  with  legs,  immense  moths,  birds,  and 
quadrupeds  of  all  descriptions,  fishes,  snakes,  and  amphibi- 
ous animals  hover  in  the  skies  of  China  during  this  season. 
Yes,  kite  flying  is  a grave  affair  in  this  country,  and  the  so- 
lemnity is  greatly  heightened  by  the  fact  that  grave  yards  are 
almost  universally  selected  as  the  spots  to  fly  them. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


347 


LETTER  XXXV. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Pootoo,  China,) 
August  20,  1867.  ) 

My  Dear  R.  : 

We  left  Shanghai  Monday,  July  29th,  with  the  express  pur- 
pose of  passing  away  the  hottest  weather  in  a cruise  about 
the  islands  off  the  eastern  coast  of  China,  and  recruiting  the 
health  of  the  ship’s  company.  Our  stay  there  of  three  months 
and  a half  with  the  thermometer  standing  at  more  than  100° 
above  zero  much  of  the  time,  had  not  been  without  serious 
effect  on  the  crew,  and  before  we  left  nearly  one-third  were 
under  medical  treatment.  We  had  no  prevailing  epidemic, 
and  but  few  serious,  with  no  fatal,  cases  of  sickness ; but 
there  seemed  to  be  a general  weakness  and  utter  prostration, 
that  required  a change.  Indeed  it  was  mainly  upon  the  ad- 
vice of  Dr.  Jenkins  of  Shanghai,  that  the  cruise  was  made. 
In  a sanitary  respect  it  has  proved  successful  beyond  the 
highest  hopes  and  expectations  of  all.  At  no  time  since  we 
left  Boston  have  the  crew  been  in  as  good  health  as  now,  and 
a more  robust  or  cheerful  body  of  men  could  hardly  be  found. 
In  addition  to  this,  all  will  agree  with  me  in  saying  that  it 
certainly  has  been  the  pleasantest  and  most  interesting  month 
we  have  spent  in  China,  or  Chinese  waters. 

Among  the  interesting  incidents  of  our  last  few  day’s  so- 
journ at  Shanghai,  were  the  sums  contributed  and  presented 
to  the  representatives  of  the  Catholic  and  Protestant  Missions 
located  there,  thus  showing  that  we  were  not  unmindful  of 
their  exertions  for  our  enlightenment  and  edification  during 
our  stay,  nor  ungrateful  for  them.  One  hundred  dollars  were 
raised  for  each,  and  placed  in  the  hands  of  our  Consul  for 
presentation  to  them,  accompanied  by  our  most  hearty  thanks 


348  CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 

for  their  many  kindnesses,  and  our  best  wishes  for  their  fu- 
ture success. 

The  moment  we  had  cleared  the  mouth  of  the  Whang-po 
river,  and  felt  the  cool,  refreshing  sea-breezes,  uncontaminated 
by  contact  with  the  low,  pestilence  breeding  swamps  which 
surround  Shanghai,  a new  life  and  vigor  seemed  to  be  infus- 
ed into  all  the  crew,  and  from  that  moment  the  health  and 
spirits  of  all  began  to  mend  rapidly.  The  next  morning  we 
anchored  at  the  Ragged  Islands,  which  lie  to  the  southward 
and  eastward  of  the  city,  and  distant  about  eighty  miles.  There 
we  remained  nearly  twenty-four  hours  while  we  had  our 
quarterly  target  exercise  with  the  battery,  and  the  next  day 
after  steaming  about  sixty  miles  we  dropped  anchor  off  Square 
Island,  which  you  will  doubtless  remember  as  being  five 
miles  from  Chinhai  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ningpo  river. 

By  the  steamer  of  the  next  morning  from  Shanghai,  we 
received  orders  from  the  Admiral  to  proceed  up  to  Ningpo, 
and  there  await'  the  arrival  of  Vice  Consul  General  Man- 
gum  and  wife,  and  Mr.  Thorne — nephew  of  the  late  Captain 
Townsend — who  were  to  accompany  us  on  our  cruise.  They 
came  down  the  2d,  and  came  on  board  the  Wachusett  the  fol- 
lowing morning.  A further  addition  to  the  party  was  made 
in  the  persons  of  a son  of  Dr.  Jenkins,  and  two  or  three  Chinese 
compradores  and  pilots. 

Everything  being  in  readiness  we  weighed  anchor  a little 
after  noon  of  the  same  day  and  started  down  the  river.  At 
Ningpo  we  had  found  the  air,  if  possible  more  sultry  and 
deadening  than  at  Shanghai,  and  as  we  passed  Chinhai  and 
met  the  pure  and  refreshing  sea-breezes  again,  I thought  that 
they  never  seemed  so  good  and  life-giving  as  then.  Our  gen- 
eral course,  after  clearing  the  mouth  of  the  river,  was  easter- 
ly, but  very  winding  and  circuitous,  in  order  to  pass  between 
the  many  islands  which  extend  along  the  coast.  It  was  about 
5 P.  M.  when  we  dropped  anchor  at  Tinghai,  having  logged 
forty  knots  since  leaving  Ningpo. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


349 


The  Chusan  Archipelago  belongs  to  the  department  of  Ning- 
po,  and  forms  the  single  district  of  which  Tinghai  is  the  capi- 
tal. It  is  divided  into  twenty-four  chwang , or  townships, 
whose  officers  are  responsible  to  the  district  magistrates.  The 
southern  limit  of  the  whole  group  is  Quesan,  in  Kiu-shan 
island  in  Lat.  29°  21'  N.  and  Long.  120°  10'  E,  consisting  of 
eleven  islands.  The  northernmost  is  False  Saddle  Island  in 
.Lat.  35°  50'  N.  and  Long.  122°  41'  E.  The  total  number 
of  islands  in  the  archipelago  is  over  a hundred. 

The  town  of  Tinghai  lies  on  the  southern  side  of  Chan 
Shan , or  Boat  Island,  from  which  the  entire  group  derives  the 
name  of  Chusan.  This  island  is  twenty  miles  long,  from  six 
to  ten  wide,  and  fifty-two  in  circumference.  The  general 
aspect  of  this  as  well  as  of  the  neighboring  islands,  is  that  of 
steep  ridges  of  hills,  occasionally  running  into  peaks,  but  sel- 
dom exceeding  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  elevation. 
Up  these  hills  extend  cultivated  tracts,  separated  by  fine,  even 
hedgerows.  Between  these  ridges,  running  from  the  centre 
of  the  islands  to  the  sea,  are  fertile,  well-watered,  and  highly- 
cultivated  valleys.  Across  the  mouths  of  many  of  the  val- 
leys, a wall  extends,  so  that  in  process  of  time  they  have  been 
raised  several  feet  by  the  deposits  washed  down  from  the  hill- 
sides. In  most  of  the  valleys  rice  is  cultivated ; while  some 
of  the  hills  are  covered  with  tea-plantations,  others  with 
fields  of  sweet  potatoes,  barley  or  yams,  and  those  that  are 
not  susceptible  of  cultivation  are  covered  with  the  cypress 
and  the  tallow-tree.  On  the  more  elevated  plains  are  seen 
growing  fruits,  cotton,  sugar-cane,  and  vegetables  of  various 
kinds.  The  population  of  the  entire  group  is  estimated  at 
three  hundred  thousand,  of  which  Chusan  alone  contains 
over  two  hundred  thousand.  Those  of  the  natives  we  have 
met  with  present  an  uncommonly  healthy,  cheerful  and  vig- 
orous appearance  ; while  beggars  and  persons  diseased,  which 
are  so  numerous  in  China,  are  seldom  seen  here. 

The  harbor  of  Tinghai  is  on  the  southern  side  of  Chusan 


350 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Island,  and  is  formed  by  it  together  with  five  or  six  smaller 
islands.  In  form  it  is  nearly  circular,  about  three  miles  in 
diameter,  surrounded  by  a cordon  of  hills,  with  four  or  five 
openings  to  the  sea  through  which  are  received  the  refresh- 
ing sea-breezes.  The  town  lies  back  some  distance  from  the 
beach,  on  the  inner  side  of  the  harbor,  so  that  we  are  obliged 
to  go  on  shore  if  we  would  see  anything  of  it.  I went  ashore 
there  several  times : but  the  explorations  of  the  first  day, 
when  I was  accompanied  by  two  or  three  friends,  were  so 
thorough  that  no  subsequent  visit  revealed  any  new  thing  wor- 
thy of  note. 

We  landed  at  the  suburb  of  Ta  Tautau,  a small  village 
where  are  the  custom  house  and  principal  landing-place. 
Along  the  beach,  in  front  of  this  suburb,  extends  a heavy 
stone  wall  covered  with  earth,  and  nearly  grass-grown ; on 
its  summit,  on  rickety  carriages  several  old  pieces  of  ordi- 
nance are  mounted.  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  this  em- 
bankment is  a high,  rocky  eminence,  its  summit  crowned  by  a 
strong  Chinese  citadel,  called  Pagoda  Fort,  from  a joss  tower 
there  located.  From  this  fort  the  English  received  the  great- 
est opposition  at  the  time  of  their  capture  of  the  island  in 
1843. 

The  valley  of  Yung-tung,  in  which  the  district  town  of  Ting- 
hai  lies,  is  about  two  and  one-half  miles  wide,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  that  I ever  saw,  particularly  that  half- 
mile  of  its  length  which  intervenes  between  the  town  and  its 
suburb,  Ta  Tautau.  There  everything  in  nature  and  art 
seems  to  be  blended  to  make  it  beautiful.  Two  canals,  large 
enough  for  boats,  lead  from  the  harbor  to  the  city,  and  we 
might  have  gone  up  by  water,  but  preferred  walking  over  the 
fine  stone  causeway  which  extends  from  Ta, Tautau  to  the 
south  gate.  A delightful  walk  of  a few  minutes  brought  us 
to  the  bridge  which  spans  a moat,  some  thirty  feet  wide  and 
ten  deep.  This  moat  entirely  surrounds  the  city,  with  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


351 


exception  of  a portion  of  the  western  side,  and  enters  it,  near 
the  South  gate. 

Entering  the  city  by  this  gate  and  rambling  about  there  a 
while,  we  at  length  ascended  Cameronian  Hill,  which  is  cros- 
sed by  the  western  wall.  A pagoda  of  some  pretentions  is 
the  only  building  upon  the  hill,  but  there  are  several  fine 
groves  of  trees.  As  it  appeared  to  us,  the  city  is  of  an  irreg- 
ular, quadrangular  form,  about  two-thirds  of  a mile  in  extent 
from  north  to  south,  and  about  the  same  from  east  to  west.  A 
solid  wall  about  twenty-five  feet  high  and  fifteen  wide  sur- 
rounds it,  and  through  this  four  gates,  named  respectively 
from  the  four  cardinal  points  of  the  compass,  open  upon  the 
surrounding  country.  The  houses  are  low,  built  of  brick, 
and  having  variously  colored  tiled  roofs.  The  streets  are 
from  ten  to  twelve  feet  wide,  paved  with  granite,  with  sewers 
underneath,  but  the  general  appearance  of  the  town  is  decay- 
ing, deserted,  filthy  and  mean.  The  only  really  fine  building 
that  I saw  was  a Confucian  temple,  the  walls  of  which  were 
composed  of  very  beautiful  mosaic  work.  The  hills  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  city  are  covered  with  tombs,  showing 
that  the  town  is  very  ancient  and  at  some  time  must  have 
been  very  populous.  Some  ten  or  fifteen  years  ago,  when 
used  as  a supply  depot  by  the  English,  there  were  many 
European  residents  atTinghai,  but  at  present  there  are  none  ; 
and  the  only  European  articles  that  I saw  in  all  my  rambles, 
were  a few  panes  of  glass  and  two  Catholic  portraits. 

Among  the  more  important  and  most  interesting  events  of 
our  stay  at  Tinghai  were  a number  of  charming  picnic  ex- 
cursions in  large  junks  to  several  of  the  surrounding  islands, 
and  the  serving  out  of  chickens  instead  of  fresh  beef.  As  I 
have  before  mentioned,  in  most  parts  of  China  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  procure  beef,  and  here  we  found  it  quite  so.  As 
the  crew  had  been  living  on  salt  rations  for  some  time  and 
no  beef  was  to  be  procured,  the  purser  decided  to  furnish  the 
messes  with  chickens,  which  were  both  good  and  cheap.  All 


352 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


agreed  that  the  substitute  was  an  excellent  one.  Those  huge 
pot  pies  were  beneficial  as  well  as  palatable,  and  not  very 
expensive  for  Uncle  Sam. 

The  principal  excursions  were  to  the  sacred  island  of 
Pootoo,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  distant,  and  the  captain 
finally  concluded  to  go  there  with  the  vessel.  Accordingly 
Thursday,  August  loth,  we  got  under  way,  and,  after  two 
hour’s  steaming  between  high,  mountainous  islands,  all  in  a 
high  state  of  cultivation,  and  presenting  such  beautiful  and 
picturesque  scenery  as  is  rare  even  in  China,  we  dropped 
anchor  on  the  southern  side  of  the  sacred  island,  so  famous  in 
the  annals  of  Buddhism. 

The  legendary  account  of  the  island  is,  that  a Japanese 
priest,  in  returning  from  a visit  fo  the  celebrated  temple  at 
Tein  Tai,  south  of  Ningpo,  found  his  vessel  unaccountably 
obstructed  by  vast  quantities  of  water  lilies  and  shell-fish  in 
the  water.  He  immediately  prostrated  himself  before  an 
image  of  the  goddess  Kwan-yin,  and  implored  her  protection. 
His  vessel  was  at  once  drifted  towards  the  shore  of  Pootoo. 
Pie  landed  and  narrated  his  marvelous  deliverance  as  vouch- 
safed by  the  goddess.  He  fixed  Ins  permanent  abode  on  the 
island  and  consecrated  a building  to  the  goddess.  This  was 
about  a thousand  years  ago,  but  the  goddess  Kwan-yin  has 
ever  since  been  honored  as  the  patron  deity  of  the  place. 
The  island  soon  became  famous ; large  and  costly  temples 
were  built ; pilgrimages  were  made  to  its  shrines ; even  the 
emperors  were  impressed  with  the  deepest  veneration,  and 
the  whole  of  Pootoo  with  portions  of  the  neighboring  islands 
were  granted  to  the  priests.  The  island  itself  is  about  five 
miles  long,  and  from  one  to  two  broad. 

At  5 P.  M.  “the  word  was  passed”  for  all  those  who  wish- 
ed to  go  in  bathing  to  “lay  aft  on  the  quarter  deck.”  I with 
about  sixty  others  did  so,  and  set  out  for  the  shore  in  the  cut- 
ters. We  landed  at  a little  pier,  near  which  several  junks 
■were  engaged  in  unloading  rice,  brought  from  some  of  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


353 


neighboring  temple  lands.  A party  of  us  concluded  that  we 
preferred  having  a ramble  over  the  island,  to  going  in  bathing, 
and  so  we  separated  from  the  others. 

Close  by  the  landing  is  the  How-sze,  the  second  monaste- 
ry in  point  of  importance  on  the  island,  containing  about  ten 
temples,  several  of  which  were  sadly  out  of  repair.  Still 
there  are  left  many  remains  of  former  grandeur  and  magnifi- 
cence. From  the  How-sze  a finely  flagged  path,  shaded  on 
either  hand  by  large,  noble  old  trees  somewhat  resembling 
our  elm,  but  covered  with  a flower  much  like  that  of  the  lo- 
cust in  form,  color,  and  perfume,  leads  to  the  top  of  a high 
eminence.  Besides  these,  here  and  there  is  a garden  taste- 
fully laid  out,  and  the  walks  lined  with  aromatic  shrubs,  which 
together  with  the  flowers  of  the  China  tree  fill  the  air  with  a 
delicious  and  exquisite  perfume.  Ascending  the  eminence 
by  the  path,  at  every  corner  and  turn,  we  encountered  a tem- 
ple or  a grotto,  an  inscription  or  an  image,  until  at  last  we 
reached  the  summit  and  seated  ourselves  in  the  pretty  pavil- 
ion there  located.  This  was  open  on  all  sides  and  from  it  an 
extremely  beautiful  prospect  was  spread  out  before  us.  To 
be  seen  were  numerous  islands,  far  and  near,  rock  and  preci- 
pice around  and  below,  here  and  there  a monastery,  temple 
or  grotto ; and  down  before  us,  the  finest,  most  interesting 
sight  of  all,  a great  collection  of  temples  with  their  yellow 
tiles  indicative  of  imperial  distinction,  in  the  loveliest  of  love- 
ly little  valleys.  All  the  aid  that  could  be  collected  from 
Nature  and  Chinese  art  had  been  here  concentrated  to  render 
the  scene  enchanting. 

The  descent  to  the  valley  is  quite  steep,  and  there  being 
no  steps,  and  our  shoes  being  very  slippery,  we  had  many  an 
amusing,  (and  some  not  so  much  so,)  tumble  on  our  way  down. 
This  valley  is  very  quiet  and  retired,  and  in  all  respects  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  spots  I ever  saw.  As  we  walk  along, 
we  see  fine  hedgerows,  separating  cultivated  tracts,  the  hedge- 
rows themselves  covered  with  the  woodbine,  and  the  sur- 
16* 


354 


CHINA.  AND  JAPAN, 

rounding  hills  covered  with  luxuriant  shrubbery,  or  clothed 
with  verdure. 

We  now  find  ourselves  in  the  precincts  of  the  temples,  butto 
enter  the  enclosure  we  must  pass  through  a small  tower,  covered 
with  tiles  of  the  imperial  yellow,  showing  that  it  was  a pres- 
ent from  the  emperor.  Passing  through  this  we  cross  a fine, 
arched,  stone  bridge  with  a small  octagonal  tower  in  the  mid- 
dle, thrown  across  a miniature  artificial  lake,  covered  with 
lotus  plants  of  immense  size.  We  now  pass  through  one  of 
the  buildings,  enter  a large  court,  and  before  us  stands  the 
principal  temple.  Crossing  the  court,  and  entering  the  tem- 
ple, or  large  hall,  we  see  before  us,  in  the  elevated  shrine, 
the  three  precious  Buddhus — the  past,  the  present,  and  the 
future, — gaudily  gilt  and  painted,  while  ranged  up  and  down 
at  each  end  of  the  hall  are  eighteen  other  images — the  god  of 
war,  the  protectress  of  seamen,  the  goddess  of  wealth,  &c. 
The  three  Buddhus  are  represented  half  naked,  with  woolly 
hair,  and  in  a sitting  posture ; one  holding  the  mundane  egg 
in  his  lap  ; one  adorned  with  the  sacred  thread  ; and  one  with 
his  finger  upraised,  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  instructing  man- 
kind. 

Before  their  altar  are  ranged  the  ornaments  of  worship. 
A large  table  is  covered  with  vases  filled  with  flowers  or 
fruits  offered  to  the  gods  ; and,  near  the  centre  of  the  hall, 
are  the  censers  in  which  incense  is  burned,  and  the  large  iron 
caldron  for  burning  gilt  paper.  In  one  of  the  front  corners 
of  the  hall  is  placed  a huge  bell  covered  with  antique  inscrip- 
tions, and  in  the  other  a huge  drum  or  gong  whose  grave  and 
sonorous  sounds  are  mingled  with  those  of  the  bell  to  arouse 
the  attention  of  the  gods  when  important  personages  come  to 
adore  him.  Then  there  are  the  bamboo  which  holds  the 
little  bits  of  wood  by  which  the  purposes  of  fate  are  interro- 
gated, and  the  sacred  books  which  not  even  the  priest  under- 
stands. From  the  ceiling  hang  enormous  circular  lanterns, 
like  the  sides  of  the  altars  covered  over  with  inscriptions 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


355 


in  honor  of  the  gods  ; and  on  the  floor  in  front  of  the  altar  are 
a few  cushions  and  mats  on  which  the  worshipers  kneel.  With 
some  slight  exceptions  or  additions  the  furniture  of  every 
Buddhist  temple  is  the  same. 

The  priests  are  at  their  devotions.  The  smoke  of  incense 
rises  from  the  huge  censer,  and,  round  in  front  of  the  altar, 
stand  fourteen  priests,  erect,  motionless  with  clasped  hands 
and  downcast  eyes,  a posture  which  with  their  shaven  heads 
and  flowing  robes  gives  them  the  appearance  of  the  greatest 
solemnity.  The  low  and  solemn  tones  of  the  slowly  moving 
chant,  might  awake  religious  emotions,  but  for  th^  hideous 
idols.  Three  priests  keep  time  with  music,  one  by  beating 
on  the  drum,  another  on  the  bell,  and  the  third  on  a hollow 
wooden  sounding  piece  about  the  size  and  form  of  a human 
skull.  Continuing  the  chant  for  some  time,  they  suddenly,  at 
a signal  from  a small  bell  in  the  hand  of  their  leader,  kneel 
upon  low  stools  covered  with  straw  matting,  at  the  same  time 
bowing  low,  and  striking  their  foreheads  against  the  stone 
pavement,  then  slowly  rising  they  face  inward  towards  the 
altar,  seven  facing  to  the  right  and  seven  to  the  left,  and  im- 
mediately resume  their  chant.  At  first  they  sing  in  a slowly 
moving  measure,  then  gradually  increase  the  rapidity  of  the 
music  until  they  utter  the  words  as  fast  as  it  is  possible  to 
articulate,  after  which  they  return  gradually  again  to  the 
slow  and  solemn  measure  with  which  they  commenced.  Again 
a signal  from  the  little  bell  changes  their  movements  and 
they  march  slowly  in  procession  around  the  shrine  while  one 
of  their  number  takes  a cup  of  holy  water,  and  pours  it  upon 
a low  stone  pillar  at  the  temple  door.  Thus  they  continue 
their  prostrations,  chanting  and  tinklings  of  bells  for  half 
an  hour  or  more.  Some  of  the  old  monks  appeared  to  be 
exceedingly  devout,  but  some  of  the  younger  ones  did  not 
hesitate  to  joke  and  laugh. 

This  is  their  daily  service,  but  beside  it  they  have  matins, 
morning  and  evening  prayers.  They  have  no  Sabbaths,  or 


356 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


periodical  seasons  of  rest,  but  observe  the  new  and  full  moon 
with  particular  solemnity ; and  keep,  on  the  whole,  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty-two  fast  days  every  year,  beside  the  matins 
and  vespers  of  each  day.  But  all  their  chanting  is  only  what 
you  may  see  written  on  every  corner  of  the  temples,  at  every 
turn  of  the  roads,  on  every  scrap  of  paper,  on  the  bells,  on 
the  gateways,  on  the  walls,  what  every  priest  repeats  while 
counting  his  rosary,  answers  your  questions ; indeed,  the 
whole  island  seems  to  be  under  the  spell  of  this  talismanic 
phrase,  and  devoted  to  recording  and  re-echoing  O-me-to- 
Fuh  (i.*  e.,  Precious  Buddhu.)  The  following  extract  from 
one  of  their  works  will  serve  to  show  to  what  extent  they 
carry  their  vain  repetitions,  as  the  commands  therein  embodi- 
ed may  be  seen  carried  out  to  the  utmost. 

“ Swear  then,  that  you  will  henceforth  repeat  the  name  of 
Buddhu,  and  seek  to  live  in  that  western  world  of  joy.  Give 
up  books  and  classics  for  others  to  fag  at ; leave  the  thous- 
and roads  for  others  to  toil  in.  Beyond  this  sentence,  4 O-me- 
to-Fuh,  ’ you  need  not  a single  word.  Let  each  seek  a re- 
tired room,  and  sweep  it  clean ; place  therein  an  image  of 
Buddhu  ; put  incense  and  pure  water,  with  a lighted  lamp 
before  it ; whether  painted  on  paper,  or  carved  on  wood,  the 
figure  is  the  same  as  the  true  Buddhu  ; love  it  as  your  father 
and  mother ; venerate  it  as  your  prince  and  ruler.  Morning 
and  evening  worship  before  it  with  reverence;  on  going  out 
inform  it ; and  on  returning  do  the  sarrje.  Wherever  you 
travel,  act  as  in  the  presence  of  Buddhu.  Whether  you  eat 
or  drink,  offer  it  up  first  to  Buddhu.  Raising  the  eye  or  mov- 
ing the  lips,  let  all  be  for  Buddhu.  Let  not  the  rosary  leave 
your  hands,  or  O-me-to-Fuh  depart  from  your  mouths.  Re- 
peat it  with  a loud  voice  and  with  a low  one ; in  lines  of  four 
words  and  six  words  ; quickly  and  slowly ; audibly  and  silent- 
ly ; with  clasped  hands  and  bended  knees ; when  fingering 
the  rosary,  and  when  walking  in  the  road  ; when  in  a crowd 
and  when  alone ; whether  at  home  or  abroad  ; whether  at 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


357 


leisure  or  in  a bustle  ; whether  sitting  or  lying ; repeat  it 
even  in  your  dreams.  Thus  to  repeat  it  will  make  the  tears 
flow  ; thus  to  repeat  it  will  inspire  the  celestial  gods  with 
awe,  and  the  terrestrial  demons  with  reverence ; thus  to  re- 
peat it  will  make  heaven  rejoice,  and  the  gods  be  glad.  At 
the  sound  of  Buddha’s  name  the  debt  of  gratitude  to  parents, 
princes,  superiors,  and  benefactors,  will  all  be  paid.  If  you 
realize  behind  you  the  boiling  caldron  of  hell,  and  before  you 
the  lotus  pools  of  heaven,  though  all  the  world  should  try  to 
prevent  you  repeating  the  name  of  Buddhu,  their  efforts 
would  be  entirely  vain.” 

Besides  this  they  have  other  prayers,  understood  by  only 
a very  few  of  the  priests,  and  repeated  by  the  great  mass 
without  a single  word  being  intelligible  to  them.  Yet,  such 
an  efficacy  is  attached  to  one  of  these,  that  they  teach  that 
after  repeating  it  two  hundred  thousand  times  the  intelligence 
of  the  deity  begins  to  bud  within  him  who  repeats  ; when  he 
has  repeated  it  three  hundred  thousand  times  he  may  expect 
a personal  vision  of  the  god  O-me-to.  The  following  is  a 
specimen: — 

“ Nan-mo  o-me-te  po-zay  to-ta-kea  to  zay,  to-te-zay-ta,  o- 
me-le-to  po-kwan,  o-me-le-to,  seeh-tan-po-kwan,  o-mele-to, 
kwan-kea-lan  te,  o-me-le-to,  kwan-kia-lan-to,  kea-me-me,  kea- 
kea-ma-cheh-to  kea-le,  po-po-lfo.” 

There  are  two  accounts  of  the  introduction  of  Buddhism 
into  China.  One  is  .that  the  Emperor  hearing  of  Christ  sent 
embassadors  to  invite  him  to  pay  a visit  to  China.  The  em- 
bassadors went  as  far  as  India,  and  there  meeting  with  some 
priests  of  Buddhu,  whose  religion  was  then  astonishing  the 
heathen  world  with  its  wonders,  they  thought  that  they  had 
found  the  object  of  their  embassy,  and  with  a number  of 
Buddhist  priests  returned  to  China. 

The  other  is,  that  the  Emperor  sent  to  India,  having  heard 
that  there  was  a religious  personage  in  the  west,  of  the  name 
of  Buddhu,  to  inquire  into  his  doctrines,  obtain  his  books,  and 


358 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


bring  some  of  his  priests  to  China.  It  is  certain,  however, 
that  the  religion  was  introduced  into  the  country  about  the 
year  A.  D.  66. 

A prominent  doctrine  of  the  Buddhists  is  that  the  spirits  of 
departed  ancestors  may  inhabit  the  bodies  of  animals.  Hence, 
the  strictest  kindness  towards  the  entire  brute  creation  is  en- 
joined upon  all  true  believers,  and  around  every  Buddhist 
temple  may  be  seen  an  immense  number  of  fat  hogs  and  lazy 
dogs,  who  are  sustained  until  they  die  of  obesity,  or  perish 
by  scurvy.  But  their  kindness  is  confined  to  the  brute  crea- 
tion and  to  ghosts,  while  they  utterly  neglect  the  miserable 
among  men.  Their  bractice  of  providing  for  hungry  ghosts 
is  somewhat  singular. 

On  the  anniversary  of  their  ancestor’s  death,  and  at  the 
annual  feast  of  the  tombs,  all  persons  must  present  offerings 
to  the  manes  of  their  progenitors.  This  is  done  for  their 
support,  and  as  the  food  is  not  diminished  in  bulk  after  being 
feasted  upon  by  the  spirits,  the  Chinese  imagine  that  they 
take  away  only  the  flavor  ; indeed,  they  contend  that  there  is 
no  more  taste  in  that  which  is  left  than  in  the  white  of  an 
egg.  Thus,  those  who  have  left  children,  are  well  provided 
for,  but  woe  to  those  who  have  died  without  having  left  any  ! 
They  must  wander  hungry  through  all  eternity. 

They  have  instituted  a ceremony  which  is  usually  held 
after  the  seventh  moon,  for  the  relief  of  those  wretched 
ghosts  who  have  left  no  posterity  to  provide  for  them.  The 
funds  for  the  procuring  of  the  necessary  provisions  are  raised 
by  subscriptions,  and  on  the  appointed  day  they  are  placed 
upon  a stage  erected  for  the  purpose.  Upon  another  stage 
the  priests  stand  and  by  means  of  prayers  and  the  movement 
of  the  fingers  in  a peculiar  way  the  gates  of  hell  are  opened, 
and  then  by  the  sound  of  gongs  and  drums  the  hungry  ghosts 
are  assembled  to  the  banquet  prepared  for  them. 

In  the  spirit  land,  according  to  the  Chinese  belief,  money 
and  clothing  are  as  necessary  as  in  this  life.  Hence  those 


✓ 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


359 


who  wish  to  benefit  the  dead  must  transmit  them  not  only 
food,  but  money  and  articles  of  clothing.  The  money  is  rep- 
resented by  pieces  of  paper  about  four  inches  square,  with  a 
patch  of  tin  foil  or  gold  leaf  near  the  middle,  by  burning 
which  the  real  bullion  is  supposed  to  be  transmitted.  Minia- 
ture houses  with  all  the  necessary  furniture  are  constructed 
out  of  paper,  articles  of  clothing  are  delineated  on  paper,  and 
then  burnt;  and  thus  transmitted  to  friends  in  the  spirit 
land. 

The  Buddhist  priests,  although  honored  by  their  immedi- 
ate adherents,  are  treated  with  the  utmost  scorn  by  the  lite- 
rati of  China.  Probably  the  great  mass  of  the  Chinese  pop- 
ulation profess  the  Buddhist  faith ; but  these  are  of  the  low- 
est classes,  while  those  in  authority,  and  the  men  of  learning 
espouse  the  Confucian  religion,  which  is  that  of  the  State.  As 
a class  the  Buddhist  priests  are  indolent,  subsist  by  begging, 
and  do  nothing  towards  the  improvement  of  the  world  or  for 
the  benefit  of  posterity.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  case 
in  the  past,  at  the  present  day  the  Buddhist  priesthood  is  in 
a most  degraded  state,  and  their  temples  in  a most  dilapida- 
ted condition.  These  circumstances  would  seem  to  indicate 
the  speedy  downfall  of  the  system,  and  when  this  happens,  a 
brighter  day  will  dawn  for  China. 

After  leaving  this  temple  we  visited  the  smaller  and  infe- 
rior temples  of  the  God  of  War,  the  God  of  Good  Cheer,  the 
God  of  Wealth,  and  several  other  less  noted  divinities.  The 
temple  of  the  goddess  Kwan-yin,  the  patron  deity  of  the 
island,  was  smaller  than  any  of  the  others,  but  the  interior 
was  fitted  up  with  much  greater  splendor  and  magnificence. 
The  image  of  the  goddess,  although  as  fine  as  the  Chinese 
mind  could  conceive  and  their  art  execute,  was  not  attractive 
enough  to  excite  the  devotion  of  any  of  the  party  on  personal 
grounds. 

Leaving  the  temples  and  crossing  over  to  the  opposite  side 
of  the  lake,  I endeavored  to  persuade  one  of  the  priests  to 


360 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


wade  in  and  get  me  one  of  the  lotus  plants ; but  the  only 
answer  he  made  me  was  “O-me-to-Fuh,”  as  he  stood  motion- 
less counting  his  rosary.  Meeting  with  no  success  in  this 
quarter  I waded  in  myself  disregarding  their  forbidding 
looks,  tones,  and  gestures,  and  procured  one  of  the  white  and 
one  of  the  red  flowers,  but  not  without  getting  a good  duck- 
ing. These  lotus  blossoms,  or  “ Sacred  Flowers  of  China  ” as 
they  are  called,  are  very  large,  full  eight  inches  in  diameter, 
have  four  rows  of  leaves,  with  a bunch  in  the  centre,  some- 
what resembling  a student’s  cap.  There  are  two  varieties,  the 
white  and  the  red,  and  the  odor  is  so  powerful,  that  it  is  al- 
most suffocating  to  walk  near  the  bank  of  the  lake. 

From  the  valley  we  went  up  upon  the  hill  to  the  rear  of 
the  village  where  is  a genii’s  well,  some  thirty  feet  deep,  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock.  The  descent  to  the  water  is  by  twenty- 
two  stone  steps  also  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  done,  as 
the  Chinese  affirm,  by  the  celestial  gods.  The  waters  have  a 
sweetish  but  very  pleasant  taste  and  are  as  cold  as  ice  water. 
The  Chinese  have  a tradition  concerning  them  which  says 
that  for  every  bowlfull  drank  by  a mortal,  a thousand  years 
will  be  added  to  his  life  in  the  spirit  land.  If  there  be  any 
virtue  in  them  I have  added  greatly  to  my  life  there,  for  I 
drank  several  bowls-full. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  more  than  one  hundred  mon- 
asteries, temples,  grottos,  and  pavilions  on  the  island,  in 
which  at  least  two  thousand  priests  chant  the  praises  of  their 
gods.  In  fact  there  are  no  buildings  on  the  island  but  sacred 
ones,  and  no  inhabitants  except  priests  and  boys  training  for 
the  priesthood.  These  are  supported  by  the  products  of  the 
island,  and  by  the  contributions  of  those  making  pilgrimages 
hither,  or  coming  to  worship.  Like  all  the  priests  of  Bud- 
dhu,  they  profess  to  renounce  all  family  connections,  take  a 
vow  of  celibacy,  shave  their  heads,  dwell  in  temples,  and 
abstain  from  animal  food,  liquors,  and  tobacco. 

Descending  the  eminence  upon  which  the  genii’s  well  is 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


3G1 


located,  crossing  a narrow  valley,  ascending  and  descending 
another  slight  eminence  and  you  are  upon  the  northern  side 
of  the  island,  where  is  as  fine  a spot  for  surf-bathing  as  can 
be  found  anywhere  in  the  world.  To  many  of  us  surf-bath- 
ing is  a novelty  and  at  first  we  got  roughly  handled  by  the 
breakers,  but  the  semi-daily  exercise  of  our  week’s  stay  here 
has  made  us  nearly  as  expert  as  the  oldest  surf-bathers. 

As  I said  in  the  forepart  of  my  letter  the  benefits  are 
plainly  visible  in  the  crew,  and  there  has  not  been  a more 
pleasant  period  in  the  cruise.  I have  no  idea  tow  much  long- 
er we  shall  remain  here ; but  hope  that  our  next  port  will  be 
Hong  Kong,  there  to  fit  out  for  the  homeward  bound  pas- 
sage. Even  for  that,  the  crew  are  not  anxious  to  bid  Pootoo 
“good-bye,”  so  much  are  they  charmed  by  this  lovely  spot, 
and  so  pleasantly  and  swiftly  do  the  days  of  our  stay  here 
pass  by. 


362 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XXXVI. 

U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Hong  Kong,  China, 
September  11,  1867. 

My  Dear  R. : • 

The  same  evening  that  I finished  your  last  letter  a junk 
arrived  at  Pootoo  from  Ningpo,  bringing  dispatches  from  the 
Admiral  ordering  us  to  proceed  to  Shanghai  immediately,  and 
as  soon  as  we  could  take  in  the  necessary  coal  and  provisions 
to  go  to  Hong  Kong,  and  make  the  necessary  preparations 
for  the  “Homeward  Bound  Passage.”  The  wildest  excite- 
ment was  caused  by  these  dispatches,  and  a joyous  activity 
has  since  pervaded  every  duty. 

We  got  under  way  the  next  morning  at  day-light,  anchor- 
ed just  inside  the  light-ship  at  dark  that  evening ; got  under 
way  at  day -light  the  next  morning,  and  a little  after  noon  we 
were  at  our  old  anchorage  at  Shanghai.  We  found  the  Flag- 
ship there,  having  returned  the  day  before  from  Chefoo,  and 
heard  it  rumored  that  the  Wyoming  and  Supply  were  with 
us  to  start  for  home  as  soon  as  possible.  The  Hartford  left 
for  Hong  Kong  Friday  morning,  August  23d,  and  that  same 
afternoon  we  commenced  coaling  ship.  By  working  all  night 
we  finished  the  next  forenoon. 

Saturday  and  Sunday  the  ship  was  fairly  thronged  with 
friends  from  shore,  paying  us  their  farewell  visit.  All  seem- 
ed loth  to  have  us  leave  the  station,  but  wished  a speedy  and 
prosperous  passage  home.  The  citizens  of  Shanghai  are 
having  a “Homeward  Bound”  pennant  manufactured  for  us, 
but  felt  disappointed  that  it  was  not  finished  in  time  for  us 
to  fly  when  we  left  there.  In  my  last  ramble  on  shore  there, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


363 


and  as  we  got  under  way  and  started  down  tlie  river  Mon- 
day forenoon,  bidding  Shanghai  “good-bye”  for  the  last 
time,  it  seemed  almost  like  leaving  home,  and  parting  from 
home  friends.  We  have  certainly  spent  a great  many  pleas- 
ant days  there,  formed  many  pleasant  acquaintances,  and  I 
think  that  we  left  with  the  best  wishes  of  all — of  whatever 
nationality. 

Shortly  after  passing  Woosung  the  wind  commenced  to 
blow  very  fresh  from  the  south-east,  accompanied  by  squalls 
of  rain.  The  pilot  said  that  it  would  soon  clear  off,  but  the 
captain  said  “ Mr.  Pilot,  you  don’t  take  me  out  to  sea  in  a 
gale,  I want  you  to  understand,  ” and  with  his  customary 
prudence  he  brought  the  ship  to  anchor.  The  pilot’s  pre- 
diction proved  to  be  correct,  for  it  cleared  off  beautifully  du- 
ring the  night,  so  the  next  morning  early  we  got  under  way 
and  started  for  Hong  Kong.  We  went  down  by  the  “ Inland 
Passage,  ” anchoring  nearly  every  night,  and  with  steam  and 
all  sail  set,  logging  eight  and  ten  knots  per  hour  each  day  ; 
so  we  made  the  distance  of  eight  hundred  and  seventy  miles 
in  six  days. 

At  Hong  Kong  we  found  the  Hartford,  Ashuelot,  Monoca- 
cy,  Unadilla,  and  Aroostook.  That  same  evening  the  sup- 
ply arrived  from  Japan,  and  a day  later  the  Wyoming  from 
Shanghai.  There  are  therefore  eight  U.  S.  war  vessels  now 
in  harbor,  the  largest  fleet  of  ours  that  has  been  seen  in 
China  for  many  years.  By  all  it  is  conceded  to  be  as  fine 
an  assemblage  of  war-vessels  as  was  ever  gathered  in  these 
waters — and  likely  to  prove  as  effective.  The  Monocacy  is 
double-ender  like  tlie  Ashuelot,  only  she  has  a jib-boom  and 
is  square-rigged  forward.  The  Unadilla  and  Aroostook  are 
small  gunboats  of  four  or  five  hundred  tons  burthen,  and 
built  after  nearly  the  same  model  as  the  Wachusett.  They 
were  sent  out  here  for  the  express  purpose  of  running  up 
small  rivers,  and  cruising  about  the  numerous  bays,  islands 
and  inlets,  on  the  Chinese  coast,  after  pirates. 


364 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Tuesday,  September  3d,  our  executive  officer,  Lieutenant 
Commander  John  W.  Phillip,  was  transferred  on  board  the 
Hartford,  and  Lieutenant  Commander  Browar  was  sent 
from  her  in  bis  stead.  Some  few  feel  rejoiced  at  the  change, 
but  the  majority  of  the  ship’s  company  are  sorry  to  lose  Mr. 
Phillip.  For  all  those  who  have  endeavored  to  conduct  them- 
selves as  men , he  has  treated  as  men  should  be  treated. 
What  higher  commendation  could  be  given  of  an  officer  than 
that  ? Still  I have  no  fault  to  find  with  our  new  executive 
officer,  for  thus  far,  he  has  been  just  and  kind  in  all  of  his 
dealings  with  the  crew. 

As  yet  little  or  nothing  has  been  done  in  making  the  nec- 
essary preparations  for  home,  but  with  scarcely  anything  to 
do,  the  crew  are  celebrating  the  prospect  of  soon  being  re- 
turned to  their  homes  and  friends  near  and  dear,  once  more. 
This  is  done  in  true  sailor  style  by  singing,  dancing,  and  vari- 
ous sports  on  board  ship,  and  by  debaucheries  on  shore. 
Some  exceptions  there  are,  of  course,  to  this  rule,  but  very 
few.  As  a general  thing  a sailor  lives  a whole  cruise  in  the 
anticipation  of  the  enjoyments  which  he  intends  to  have  at  its 
end.  And  yet  the  realization  gives  but  a few  days,  or  a few 
weeks  at  the  most,  of  unlimited  sway  to  his  passions  and  de- 
sires, and  then  he  starts  on  another  cruise,  only  to  have  the 
same  thing  repeated.  This  will  continue  to  be  the  case 
until  some  plan  is  devised  by  better  treatment  to  keep  the 
men  ever  mindful  of  their  being  men,  and  of  their  duties  and 
privileges  as  such. 

There  seems  to  be  a general  wish  that  we  may  not  start 
for  home  for  a week  or  two  yet,  as  it  is  now  the  time  of  the 
changing  of  the  monsoons,  and  consequently  the  “ typhoon 
season  ” on  the  coast  of  China.  The  word  typhoon,  comes 
from  the  Chinese  ta-fung , or  “ great  wind.  ” Typhoons  are 
produced  by  the  increased  temperature  with  other  causes  not 
fully  understood.  They  annually  occasion  great  losses  to 
the  native  and  foreign  shipping  in  the  Chinese  waters,  and 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


365 


more  than  half  the  vessels  lost  on  the  coast,  are  from  them. 
They  are  now  understood  to  be  whirlwinds  whose  fury  is  ex- 
hausted within  a narrow  tract,  lying  in  no  uniform  direction 
other  than  from  north  to  south,  at  a greater  or  less  angle. 

The  principal  phenomena  indicating  the  approach  of  these 
hurricanes  are  the  direction  of  the  wind,  which  commences  to 
blow  softly  from  the  north  without  assuaging  the  heat,  or  dis- 
turbing the  calmness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  sinking  of 
the  barometer.  The  mercury  usually  commences  to  fall  sev- 
eral hours  before  the  typhoon  begins,  and  not  unfrequently 
is  known  to  fall  below  28°.  The  wind  increases  as  it  veers 
to  the  northeast,  and  from  that  point  to  the  southeast,  it 
blows  with  the  greatest  fury  in  fitful  gusts. 

The  Chinese  dread  these  gales,  and  in  some  parts  have 
erected  temples  to  the  Typhoon  Mother,  a goddess  whom  they 
supplicate  for  protection  against  them. 

Monday,  September  9tli,  the  harbor  of  Hong  Kong  was 
visited  by  the  severest  typhoon  that  has  been  known  on  the 
coast  for  ten  years.  Indications  of  its  approach  were  given 
the  evening  before,  so  that  all  the  vessels  in  our  squadron 
were  well  prepared  for  it  and  sustained  little  injury.  The 
same  was  true  of  the  men-of-war  of  other  nationalities  in  the 
harbor,  but  the  merchant  vessels  did  not  escape  so  luckily 
and  many  of  them  were  roughly  handled.  About  a dozen 
were  piled  up  together  near  where  thp  English  hospital- 
ship  Malvern  is ‘at  anchor,  there  beached  on  the  Kowloon 
shore,  and  a great  number  lost  masts  and  yards.  Several 
small  craft,  among  which  is  the  American  schooner  Fowler, 
are  reported  sunk,  and  such  is  the  fate  of  many  junks. 

The  saddest  case  of  all,  however,  was  that  of  a Spanish 
bark  which  was  lying  at  anchor  near  the  Chinese  quarter, 
without  cargo  or  ballast.  At  8 P.  M.,  Sunday  evening,  she 
commenced  dragging  her  anchor,  and  in  about  two  hours  she 
had  got  between  the  Hartford  and  the  Wachusett,  and  was 
then  dancing  about  in  such  a threatening  manner,  that  all 


366 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


hands  were  called,  in  case  she  might  bear  down  upon  us. 
Before  all  were  fairly  on  deck,  she  got  foul  of  the  Hartford’s 
cable,  and  after  two  or  three  attempts  she  finally  capsized 
and  sank.  It  is  thought  by  some  that  a hole  was  made 
through  her  bottom  by  the  Hartford’s  cable.  It  was  truly 
sad  and  sickening  to  hear  the  heartrending  cries  of  the  poor 
wretches  on  board  of  her.  The  third  cutter  was  cleared 
away  for  lowering  and  a crew  volunteered  to  go  to  their 
relief,  but  the  captain  said  that  it  was  madness  to  lower  one 
of  our  boats  and  would  not  let  them  do  it.  We  were  all 
rejoiced  the  next  morning  to  know  that  the  Hartford’s  barge 
had  picked  up  fifteen  of  the  crew,  yet  saddened  to  learn  that 
two  of  the  crew  and  a little  son  of  the  captain’s  were  drowned. 

Ashore,  houses  were  unroofed  and  blown  down,  and  much 
damage  done.  It  is  estimated  that  one  hundred  vessels  were 
wrecked  along  the  coast  and  twenty-five  hundred  lives  lost. 
Yesterday  H.  B.  M.’s  ship  Pearl  came  into  port  in  a deplora- 
ble condition.  She  was  caught  in  the  typhoon,  lost  all  her 
boats  and  five  men,  threw  eight  guns  overboard,  and  was  so 
badly  strained  that  she  had  to  keep  her  pumps  going  con- 
stantly, night  and  day,  to  prevent  her  filling  and  sinking. 
This  afternoon  the  Monocacy  came  in,  after  an  absence  of 
only  three  days.  She  too  was  caught  in  the  typhoon,  and 
lost  her  top-masts,  smoke-stock  and  three  of  her  boats.  It  is 
almost  a miracle  that  she  was  not  lost.  How  soon  we  may 
start,  I am  sure  that  I am  unable  to  tell.  Anxious  as  I am 
to  see  home  and  friends  as  soon  as  possible  I do  not  wish  to 
leave  Hong  Kong  until  the  weather  becomes  more  settled, 
and  this  seems  to  be  the  feeling  of  all. 

“ Homeward  Bound  ! ” How  often  and  with  what  anxious 
longing  have  I looked  forward  to  the  time  when  I could  in 
reality  say  that,  and  again  be  united  to  friends  near  and  dear 
after  so  long  a separation,  and  after  experiencing  so  many 
dangers  and  privations.  Although  we  have  upwards  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


367 


eighteen- thousand  miles  of  sea  to  sail  over,  taking  at  least 
four  or  five  months  ; yet  if  we  once  get  started,  it  will  seem 
almost  as  if  we  had  home  in  our  grasp.  God  grant  that  we 
may  soon  start  and  have  a speedy  and  prosperous  passage. 


368 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XXXVII. 

U.  S.  Flagship  Hartford,  Hong  Kong,  China,) 

October  9,  1867.  ) 

My  Dear  R. : 

I can  imagine  your  look  of  surprise  as  you  read  the  head- 
ing of  this  letter,  and  find  that  I am  in  another  vessel  and 
still  in  China,  instead  of  being  on  the  Wachusett  and 
“ Homeward  Bound.  ” In  fact  no  one  was  more  surprised  at 
the  transfer  than  myself,  for  up  to  the  day  in  which  it  was 
made,  I had  not  dreamed  of  such  a thing. 

Verily  we  know  not  what  a day  may  bring  forth,  for, 
within  that  short  time  all  my  hopes  and  expectations  of  soon 
starting  for  home  were  dashed  to  the  ground,  and  now  the 
prospect  of  their  being  realized  is  less  than  it  was  a year  ago. 
Transferred  just  as  I thought  that  I had  home  in  my  grasp, 
and  then  to  leave  a home,  too, — certainly  what  has  been  more 
like  a home  than  I thought  it  possible  to  find  in  the  service ! 
Then,  still  more  than  all  this,  to  part  with  old  shipmates  and 
friends,  one  especially  who  seems  almost  more  than  brother 
* to  me,  so  long  and  close  has  been  our  friendship  for  more 
than  two  years,  sharing  each  other’s  joys,  sorrows,  and  con- 
fidences. In  every  respect  it  seemed  like  leaving  home,  to 
leave  the  Wachusett. 

Thursday  morning,  September  1 2th,  the  excitement  about 
transferring  commenced,  and  before  night  one  and  all  knew 
that  there  was  to  be  a transfer  of  all  those  on  the  Wachusett 
and  Wyoming  whose  time  did  not  expire  prior  to  January 
1st,  1868,  to  take  the  place  of  those  on  the  Hartford  whose 
time  did  expire  before  that  date.  Of  the  marines,  four  were 
to  be  transferred  from  each  vessel  to  take  the  place  of  those 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


369 


were  to  be  invalided  home.  The  question  then  arose,  “Who 
is  to  be  transferred  ? ” I certainly  did  not  expect  to  be  of 
the  number  until  late  Friday  evening,  when  the  Sergeant 
told  me  that  he  had  received  orders  to  make  out  my  accounts 
with  those  of  three  others.  Of  course  I stormed  and  raved 
over  it,  even  going  to  the  Captain  and  Admiral  to  see  if  there 
was  no  possible  way  of  avoiding  the  transfer  ; but  I derived 
no  hope  from  them. 

Well,  there  was  not  much  sleep  for  me,  as  well  as  for 
many  others,  that  night,  but  when  I arose  the  next  morning, 
it  was  with  the  conviction  that  nothing  was  to  be  gained  by 
giving  way  to  sorrow  and  regret,  and  with  the  determination 
to  make  the  best  of  what  I had.  Accordingly  I set  to  work, 
packed  up  my  things,  and  made  the  necessary  preparations, 
and  after  signing  accounts,  receiving  grog  and  ration  money, 
I,  with  one  hundred  others,  set  out  bag  and  baggage  for  the 
Hartford. 

Clambering  up  the  Hartford’s  side  and  stepping  over  her 
gangway,  I found  the  spar-deck  in  genuine  “Guard  O”  order — 
crowded  with  men  and  bundled  up  with  bags,  boxes  and  bag- 
gage, with  noise,  dLrt,  and  confusion  every  where.  Some  of  the 
“ Guard  ” kindly  lending  me  a helping  hand,  I soon  had  all 
my  things  snugly  stowed  away,  and  sat  down  to  dinner  at 
noon  with  a good  appetite. 

After  dinner,  I paid  a short  visit  to  the  Wachusett  to  get 
some  things  which  I had  forgotten,  and  to  bid  those  that  I had 
left  behind  “good-bye.”  All  were  busily  engaged  in  taking 
in  stores,  and  were  working  with  a will , as  they  expected 

soon  to  start  for  home.  The  following  evening  friend  A 

came  on  board  the  Hartford  to  see  me  — paying  his  farewell 
visit.  Although  in  some  respects  the  occasion  was  sad  and 
painful,  yet  I spent  a very  pleasant  evening  with  him.  As 
far  as  he  is  concerned  personally,  he  would  not  under  the 
circumstances  have  objected  to  being  transferred,  too.  In 
bidding  one  another  “ good-bye  ” we  exchanged  best  wishes 
17 


370 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


for  each  others  prosperity,  success,  and  happiness,  and  prom- 
ised, if  our  lives  and  health  were  spared,  to  meet  one  another 
in  the  United  States. 

At  5 P.  M.,  September  18th,  the  Wachusett  was  reported 
to  be  under  way  and  all  hands  were  sent  up  into  the  rigging 
to  “ cheer  ship.”  As  she  crossed  our  bows  the  order  was 
given  for  cheering ; but  I must  confess  that  the  Unadilla’s 
crew  of  forty-three  men  gave  a heartier,  louder  response 
than  did  ours  of  four  hundred.  Still  it  was  a stirring  sight  to 
see  the  Wachusett  slowly  moving  down  the  harbor,  her  “ long 
pennant”  flying,  the  riggings  manned  by  those  who  returned 
three  hearty  cheers  for  those  given  by  the  different  vessels 
as  she  passed  them,  the  Bugler  playing  ‘‘Home,  Sweet  Home,” 
“ Auld  Lang-Syne,”  etc.  It  was  with  feelings  of  sorrow  and 
regret  that  I saw  her  go  out,  leaving  me  behind,  but  still  I 
gave  her  three  hearty  cheers,  and  sent  forth  a fervent  wish 
that  she  might  have  a speedy  and  prosperous  passage  home. 
The  Wyoming  left  the  following  morning,  when  the  same 
routine  of  “ cheering  ship,”  etc.,  was  gone  through  with. 

By  the  English  mail  steamer,  which  arrived  here  yester- 
day from  Singapore,  we  learned  that  the  Wachusett  was 
thirteen  days  in  reaching  that  place,  and  in  the  passage  was 
caught  in  a typhoon,  in  which  she  lost  boats  and  top-masts  and 
sustained  much  other  damage.  The  Wyoming  went  to  Ba- 
tavia, where  she  arrived  one  day  later. 

And  now  for  a glance  at  the  Hartford  — my  new  home. 
She  is  a screw  propellor  of  1,900  tons  burden,  ship-rigged, 
carrying  royals.  She  carries  a battery  of  twenty-one  guns  ; 
nine  nine-inch  and  one  one  hundred  pound  Parrot  rifle  on  a 
broadside  with  a thirty  pound  Parrot  on  the  forecastle,  besides 
two  boat  howitzers.  The  battery,  with  the  almost  continuous 
line  of  hatches  stretching  fore  and  aft  through  the  middle 
of  the  deck,  and  the  boats  and  booms  amidships  between  the 
foremast  and  smoke-stack,  occupy  so  much  of  the  spar-deck, 
that  although  of  much  greater  beam,  there  is  in  reality  less 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


371 


room  than  there  was  in  the  Wachusett.  The  forecastle,  too, 
is  quite  small  and  contains  but  little  room  underneath.  The 
poop  extends  nearly  to  the  mizzen-mast,  and  affords  ample 
space  underneath  for  the  Admiral’s  and  Captain’s  cabins, 
reception  rooms,  Secretary’s  office,  pantry,  printing  office, 
closets  and  lockers. 

The  berth-deck  is  flush  fore  and  aft,  and  is  as  fine  a one 
as  is  often  met  with.  The  forward  portion,  nearly  as  far  aft 
as  the  main-mast,  is  partitioned  off  from  the  rest  for  the  “ sick- 
bay,” and  is  fitted  up  with  swinging  cots,  and  with  every 
convenience  and  comfort  that  could  reasonably  be  expected 
on  board  of  a man-of-war.  Just  abaft  the  fore-mast  is  the 
galley  and  Admiral’s  stove.  From  there  aft  to  the  main- 
mast is  the  space  occupied  by  the  messes,  but  the  sleeping 
billets  extend  through  the  steerage  country  to  the  ward-room 
bulkhead,  about  midway  between  the  main  and  mizzen- 
masts. The  Guard  occupy  about  twenty  yards  of  the  after 
portion  on  the  port  side.  Around  the  main-mast  is  a rack 
and  row  of  pegs  for  the  Guards’  muskets  and  belts.  Going 
aft  on  the  port  side  are  the  Issuing,  Sailmaker’s  and  Carpen- 
ter’s rooms  and  Engineers’  steerage.  On  the  starboard  side 
are  the  Forward  officers’  mess  room,  Gunners’  and  Boat- 
swain’s rooms,  and  starboard  steerage  or  “ Gun-room,”  leaving 
between  them  a “ steerage  country,”  from  thirty-five  to  forty 
feet  wide.  The  ward-room  is  the  largest  and  finest  I ever 
saw,  and  is  well  furnished. 

Underneath  the  “ Bay  ” are  the  Yeoman’s  and  Painter’s 
rooms.  Abaft  them  is  the  Fore-passage,  some  forty  feet  in 
length,  where  are  the  sergeant’s  store  room,  bread  and  sail 
rooms,  and  two  armories.  Extending  from  there  to  the 
fire-room  are  the  fore  and  main  holds  and  chain-lock- 
ers. The  fire  and  engine  rooms,  coal  bunkers,  and  sheet 
chain-lockers  extend  nearly  as  far  aft  as  the  ward-room  bulk- 
head. Underneath  the  ward-room  is  the  cockpit  or  Orlop 
deck,  where  are  the  spirit  rooms,  more  sail  rooms,  and  some 


372  CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 

seven  or  eight  store  rooms.  Underneath  this  still  are  the 
magazines. 

Such  is  the  Hartford,  as  seen  by  me  after  a stay  of  nearly 
one  month  on  board  of  her.  Mrs.  Admiral  Farragut’s  “ The 
dear  old  Hartford,”  and  the  crew’s  “ The  Pride  of  the  Ocean,” 
were  well  earned  by  her  glorious  career  during  the  late  re- 
bellion ; and  on  that  account  she  ought  to  be,  and  doubtless 
is,  dear  to  every  true  American,  and  the  pride  and  glory 
especially  of  all  American  seamen. 

My  mess  arrangements  are  somewhat  better  than  they 
were  on  the  Wachusett,  for  here  four  of  us  non-commissioned 
officers  have  a separate  mess,  with  a table,  camp-stools,  and 
many  conveniences.  The  remainder  of  the  Guard  are  in 
two  messes,  each  of  twenty-three  men.  In  taking  the  place 
of  one  who  was  sent  home,  his  term  having  expired,  I take 
his  place,  not  only  in  duties  and  mess  arrangements,  but  in 
the  chumship  of  one  whose  friendship  is  certainly  worth  cul- 
tivating. He  is  an  easy-natured,  good-tempered,  open- 
hearted  fellow,  with  an  unmistakably  merry,  fun-loving  dis- 
position ; a splendid  yarn-spinner,  and  an  ardent  admirer  of 
“Artemus.”  He  never  complains  at  any  misfortune,  and  I 
never  yet  have  seen  or  heard  of  any  strait  that  he  was  in 
from  which  he  did  not  come  out  successfully.  I am  sure  that 
we  shall  get  along  famously  together. 

As  there  are  four  of  us  to  stand  watch,  we  have  twelve 
hours  off  and  much  easier  duty  on  the  whole  than  I have 
been  used  to.  There  are  more  sentries  to  attend  to,  and 
the  duties  are  somewhat  different,  but  when  I get  thoroughly 
established,  I am  sure  that  I shall  like  the  new  duties  as  wTell 
as  the  old  ones.  At  first  I had  some  difficulty  in  finding  the 
right  man  ; but  I had  a good  assistant  in  a prominent  mem- 
ber of  the  “guard,”  a man  of  a genial  countenance,  a nimble 
tongue,  an  obliging  disposition,  and  an  uncertain  age,  who 
knows  everything  about  everybody  in  the  ship,  and  takes 
delight  in  posting  up  any  one  else.  When  I get  puzzled,  I 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


373 


go  to  him  and  soon  get  set  to  rights.  The  Guard  has  no  gun 
to  attend  to,  and  at  general  quarters  some  are  stationed  in  the 
tops  to  act  as  sharp-shooters,  others  over  the  magazines,  seven 
to  act  as  “ color-guard,”  and  the  remainder  to  “fall  in  ” at  the 
rear  of  the  boarders,  and  to  be  ready  for  such  duty  as  may 
be  assigned  them.  My  station  is  to  take  charge  of  the  “ color 
guard.” 

' Ten  men  with  a non-commissioned  officer  are  detailed 
every  day  as  “ quarter-deck  guard,”  and  scarcely  a day  passes 
but  what  they  have  to  be  paraded  to  receive  some  distin- 
guished visitor. 

We  have  a Chaplain  on  board,  and  have  divine  service 
every  Sunday.  I have  attended  regularly  when  not  on 
watch,  and  so  far  have  enjoyed  the  services  very  much.  Yet, 
with  the  exception  of  the  apprentice  boys  and  some  of  the 
officers,  but  very  few  attend. 

We  have  had  another  typhoon,  and  a worse  one,  it  is  said, 
than  that  of  September  9th.  Monday  evening,  September 
30th,  the  wind  commenced  to  blow  quite  fresh,  accompanied 
by  light  squalls  of  rain.  All  that  night,  and  all  the  following 
day,  the  gale  kept  steadily  increasing  until  about  10  P.  M., 
when  it  was  at  its  height.  Although  the  force  of  the  wind 
was  much  greater  than  it  was  during  the  previous  typhoon, 
less  damage  was  done  to  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  as  the 
preparations  were  more  complete.  However,  several  small 
vessels  and  boats  are  reported  lost,  and  when  the  gale  was  at 
its  height,  the  Supply  parted  her  moorings,  drifted  over  near 
the  Kowloon  shore,  and  only  saved  herself  from  being 
beached  by  throwing  her  guns  overboard,  with  hawsers  fast- 
ened to  them.  On  shore  more  houses  were  unroofed  or 
blown  down,  and  much  more  damage  done  than  before.  The 
early  part  of  October  is  the  time  laid  down  for  the  close  of 
the  typhoon  season  in  the  southern  part  of  China,  and  we  all 
hope  that  this  may  prove  to  be  the  last  visitation.  The  Eng- 
lish line-of-battle  ship  Rodney  was  out  in  the  gale,  and  was 


374 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


roughly  handled.  She  lost  yards,  masts,  and  boats;  and, 
incredible  as  it  may  seem,  the  wind  was  so  strong  that  it 
burst  holes  through  her  strong  oaken  sides  large  enough  to 
throw  a hammock  through. 

An  American  ship,  the  Rattler,  lately  arrived  from  San 
Francisco,  and  having  a large  amount  of  specie  on  board, 
in  silver  bars,  was  beached  on  the  Kowloon  shore.  Several 
days  were  occupied  in  getting  the  specie  out,  and  during  that 
time  a strong  guard  had  to  be  kept  on  board  of  her,  with 
loaded  muskets,  to  prevent  the  thieving  Chinese,  who  thronged 
the  beach  like  hungry  birds  of  prey,  from  taking  possession 
of  the  vessel  and  murdering  the  crew. 

The  work  of  the  crew  since  we  have  been  lying  here  has 
been  to  get  up  the  anchors,  which  were  fastened  to  buoys 
at  the  time  that  the  Spanish  bark  got  foul  of  the  cable  during 
the  first  typhoon,  and  paint  the  ship  and  put  it  in  the  finest 
possible  harbor  trim.  All  agree  that  the  appearance  of  the 
crew,  the  cleanliness  and  comfort,  as  well  as  the  general 
appearance  of  the  vessel  have  greatly  improved  under  the 
executive  management  of  Mr.  Philip. 

October  oth  the  Great  Republic  arrived  here  from  San 
Francisco,  deeply  laden  with  California  products.  She  brought 
our  mails  and  home  news  up  to  September  3d.  On  her  re- 
turn trip  she  takes  out  a large  cargo  of  tea  and  silks,  with 
about  seven  hundred  Chinese  steerage  passengers,  besides 
about  one  hundred  Europeans  in  her  cabins. 

Dame  Rumor’s  to-day’s  edition  hath  the  report  that  we 
leave  here  in  a day  or  two  for  Japan.  We  all  hope  it  may 
prove  to  be  the  case,  for  if  we  are  to  remain  any  length  of 
time  longer  on  the  station,  it  will  be  much  more  pleasantly 
and  profitably  spent  in  Japan  than  in  China.  In  the  latter 
place  we  have  seen  nearly  everything  worthy  of  note  that  we 
would  be  apt  to  see  by  making  a longer  stay,  while  in 
Japan  we  have  barely  commenced  “ seeing  the  sights.”  Yes, 
I hope  we  may  shortly  depart  for  Japan. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


375 


LETTER  XXXVIII. 


U.  S.  Flagship  Hartford,  Nagasaki,  Japan,  ) 
December  2d,  1867.  f 


My  Dear  R. : 

With  Mrs.  H and  two  daughters  — Admiral  Bell’s 

sister  and  nieces  — on  board  as  passengers,  we  left  Hong 
Kong  Thursday,  October  10th,  and  arrived  here  after  a very 
pleasant  passage  of  ten  days.  The  pleasures  of  the  passage 
were  heightened  by  the  fact  of  our  having  ladies  on  board,  and 
never  did  I see  more  life  and  animation  exhibited  by  a body 
of  men  than  was  displayed  by  our  crew  during  those  ten  days. 
Sports  of  every  kind  were  prompted  and  carried  on,  and  in 
music,  both  instrumental  and  vocal,  the  Hartford’s  men  fairly 
surpassed  themselves. 

I was  surprised  at  the  steaming  qualities  of  the  Hartford, 
having  always  understood  that  no  dependence  could  be  placed 
upon  her  engines ; but,  although  the  fore  part  of  the  passage 
was  against  a strong  head-wind,  we  logged  over  a hundred 
miles  each  day ; and  then,  when  she  got  a wind  so  as  to  be 
able  to  carry  sail,  we  easily  sailed  treble  that  distance.  When 
we  left  Hong  Kong,  many  of  us  expected  to  have  a rough, 
disagreeable  trip,  but  it  was  a remarkably  pleasant  one,  and 
most  of  the  time  the  ship  was  as  steady  as  if  at  anchor. 
With  this  comfort,  there  is  still  another  thing  that  tends 
greatly  to  reconcile  me  to  the  transfer ; and  that  is,  having 
here  a good  comfortable  place  to  eat  my  meals,  read,  write, 
or  study,  in  the  warm  weather,  and  especially  when  under 
steam.  Poorer  fare  taken  in  comfort,  I think,  is  equal  to 
better  fare  taken  in  misery. 

At  the  date  of  my  last  letter  the  weather  was  warm,  but  it 
is  getting  to  be  quite  cool  now,  the  thermometer  standing  as 


376 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


low  as  44°  above  zero  on  some  of  the  nights,  — real  wintry 
weather.  Yes,  everything  betokens  that  winter  is  at  hand,  and 
we  all  find  that  overcoats  and  mufflers  are  comfortable,  even 
in  the  day  time.  The  Hartford’s  berth  deck  is  quite  cool  in 
warm  weather,  and  cold  in  cold  weather.  It  is  uncomfortable 
here  without  extra  clothing  on,  and  there  is  seldom  any  one 
een  lying  about  the  decks.  But  there  is  more  of  dancing,  sky- 
larking and  other  sports  going  on,  beside  a daily  drill  or  ex- 
ercise in  something ; so  that  the  time;  on  the  whole,  passes 
about  as  pleasantly  and  quickly  as  it  did  when  the  weather 
was  warmer.  Then  we  are  having  such  good  nights  for 
sleeping  that  there  is  genuine  comfort  in  one’s  hammock. 

The  fleets  of  the  different  nations  are  assembling  here,  and 
about  the  middle  of  this  month  all  expect  to  go  to  Osaca,  to 
be  there  at  the  opening  of  the  port,  which,  according  to  the 
provisions  of  the  treaty  of  one  year  ago,  is  to  occur  January 
1st,  1868.  Of  late  rumors  have  been  afloat  that  trouble  is 
apprehended  about  the  opening  of  this  and  one  or  two  other 
ports  specified  in  the  treaty  of  January  1st,  1867.  The  rumors 
are  based  upon  the  strong  spirit  of  opposition  manifested  by 
several  of  the  leading  daimios  or  princes  of  the  empire ; but 
the  ministers  of  the  several  powers  have  received  instruc- 
tions to  delay  no  longer  than  the  time  specified;  and  then, 
unless  the  ports  are  opened  willingly,  to  open  them  by  force 
of  arms.  A few  remarks  now  about  the  government  of  this 
Empire,  with  its  population  of  30,000,000,  I think  might  be 
interesting  to  you. 

According  to  the  Japanese  mythological  account  of  the 
Creation,  after  the  world  was  created,  it  was  for  a long  time 
the  abode  of  spirits,  before  our  first  parents  appeared.  These 
gave  birth  to  a daughter  named  Ten-she-o-dai-gin,  from  whom 
heir  spiritual  emperor  or  Mikado  is  descended.  About  the 
year  600  B.  C.  their  authentic  record  begins  with  the  acces- 
sion to  the  Mikadoship  of  Gimutenon,  who  conquered  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


377 


various  tribes  and  founded  the  Japanese  Empire.  Such  was 
the  origin  of  the  Mikado  or  spiritual  emperor. 

A successful  military  chieftain,  named  Yorotomo,  was  con- 
firmed by  the  Mikado,  about  the  close  of  the  tenth  century, 
as  the  first  Tycoon  or  temporal  emperor.  Since  that  time  Japan 
has  had  a dual  form  of  government,  with  two  emperors.  Al- 
though the  Mikado  is  acknowledged  to  be  the  chief  ruler  of 
the  empire,  his  power  is  only  nominal,  while  the  Tycoon,  in 
administering  the  civil  and  military  affairs  of  the  State,  is  in 
reality  the  emperor.  Once  raised  to  the  Tycoonship,  pre- 
tending to  be  desirous  for  the  ease  and  dignity  of  the  Mikado, 
he  strips  him  of  all  power,  by  supporting  him  in  idleness, 
and  in  furnishing  him  protection  and  the  necessaries  of  life. 

The  religion  and  patriotism  of  the  Japanese  are  closely 
allied,  for  the  basis  of  both  is  found  in  their  considering  it 
their  highest  duty,  while  they  believe  in  the  divine  origin  of 
their  Mikados,  and  the  infallibility  of  their  ancient  records,  to 
preserve  inviolate  their  Mikadoship  and  its  lineal  succession. 
To  some  extent,  the  Buddhist  faith  has  been  grafted  on  ; still 
this  principle  is  never  lost  sight  of,  but  is  regarded  as  the 
basis  of  their  religion,  as  well  as  that  upon  which  their  na- 
tional existence  depends. 

The  present  dynasty,  with  its  political  condition,  was 
founded  by  Gongensama,  who  attained  the  Tycoonship  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  There  were  eighteen 
feudal  lords,  or  princes,  who  were  not  subdued  by  him,  but 
still  hold  their  ancient  titles  and  estates.  Besides  these 
there  are  about  two  hundred  and  forty  other  princes,  who 
hold  greater  or  less  sway  over  their  own  estates ; but  their 
titles,  estates,  and  lives  even  are  subject  to  the  Tycoon.  Not 
so  with  these  eighteen,  although  to  a certain  extent,  they  ac- 
knowledge the  authority  of  the  Tycoon. 

In  the  administration  of  the  government,  the  Tycoon  is 
assisted  by  two  hereditary  bodies  of  nobles,  and  two  that  are 
elective  and  legislative ; thus  in  some  respects  resembling 
17* 


378 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  Parliament  of  Great  Britain.  The  aristocracy,  or  privi- 
leged class,  of  Japan  is  very  large,  and  its  members  may  be 
known  by  the  long  and  short  swords,  which  are  thrust  in  the 
belt  on  the  left  side.  Birth  alone  can  entitle  one  to  be  a 
member  of  this  class ; for  there  is  no  transfer,  however  great 
may  be  the  wealth  or  merit  of  the  individual. 

In  my  rambles  on  shore  during  our  stay  at  Nagasaki,  I have 
gained  a tolerable  insight  into  their  penal  laws  and  the  se- 
verity of  their  punishments  for  crime.  Counterfeiting  is 
regarded  as  the  highest  offence  that  can  be  committed,  and  is 
punished  by  the  crucifixion  of  the  individual ; arson  is  pun- 
ished by  burning  at  the  stake,  and  theft  and  adultery  by  de- 
capitation. No  person  is  punished  until  he  has  confessed  his 
guilt ; but  all  investigations  and  trials  are  accompanied  by 
tortures,  and  while  many  guilty  ones  doubtless  escape,  it  is 
equally  probable  that  many  innocent  ones  confess  crimes 
they  never  committed,  preferring  immediate  death  to  the 
lingering  one  so  frequently  resulting  from  torture  and  con- 
finement in  loathsome  dungeons.  In  respect  to  witnesses, 
the  Japanese  have  a law,  that  if  by  one’s  testimony  an  inno- 
cent man  is  punished,  the  witness  must  suffer  the  same  pen- 
alty. Private  disputes,  if  not  arranged  among  those  inter- 
ested, are  usually  settled  by  friends  of  the  parties  at  their 
expense. 

A slight  sickness  has  prevented  my  going  on  shore  as 
much  as  I otherwise  should ; so  I have  not  made  thorough  re- 
searches into  as  many  points  in  Japanese  customs  and  manners 
as  I would  like  and  intend  to  make.  The  whole  country,  as 
well  as  everything  about  the  people,  is  full  of  interest,  and 
daily  do  I become  more  and  more  cognizant  of  this  fact,  and 
desire  to  push  my  researches  further. 

Thursday,  November  21st,  all  were  saddened  by  the  death 
of  Horace  L.  Peterson,  Admiral’s  Secretary.  For  a long 
time  he  had  suffered  almost  untold  agonies  from  one  of  the 
worst  forms  of  rheumatic  complaint,  and  in  his  case  death 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


379 


did  seem  to  be  a relief.  All  that  knew  him  have  a good 
word  to  speak  in  his  behalf,  and  Admiral  Bell  says,  “ that  as  a 
man  and  as  a Secretary,  he  had  few  equals.”  At  2 P.  M., 
the  following  day,  all  hands  were  called  to  bury  the  dead, 
and  the  funeral  service  of  the  Episcopal  Church  was  read 
by  the  Chaplain.  The  remains  were  taken  on  shore,  accom- 
panied by  the  Marine  Guard  in  full  uniform,  and  the  officers 
of  the  Hartford,  Supply,  and  Ashuelot,  and  were  interred 
with  military  honors.  Several  boat-loads  of  English  officers 
were  in  the  funeral  cortege,  and  the  last  tribute  paid  to  the 
memory  of  the  departed  was  as  imposing  as  it  was  sad. 

The  arrival  of  a shipwrecked  party  here  yesterday  from 
the  western  coast  of  the  island  of  Niphon,  and  their  account 
of  their  treatment  by  the  Japanese,  leads  me  to  say  a few 
words  regarding  piracy  in  these  waters.  Piracy,  so  great  a 
scourge  on  the  Chinese  coast,  is  unknown  in  Japanese  waters. 
The  severity  of  the  law  against  dishonest  wrecking,  and  the 
faithfulness  of  its  execution,  are  well  worthy  of  imitation  by 
more  civilized  nations.  Property  wrecked  on  the  most 
thinly  inhabited  or  hostile  coasts  of  the  Japanese  group  is 
more  sure  of  recovery  than  on  the  coast  of  New  Jersey.  The 

C was  wrecked  on  the  coast  of  one  of  the  most  hostile 

princes,  yet  the  officers  and  crew  say  that  they  met  with  the 
greatest  kindness  and  hospitality.  The  Japanese  rescued 
them  at  the  utmost  peril  to  themselves.  They  even  went  so 
far  as  to  put  up  a bathing  place  and  an  apparatus  for  heating 
water,  as  a daily  hot  bath  is  almost  a religious  duty  with 
“ Jap ,”  and  they  could  not  refuse  to  undergo  a daily  evil,  for 
fear  of  giving  offence  to  their  hosts.  Every  article,  however 
insignificant  in  value,  floating  ashore  from  the  broken  vessel 
was  returned  to  its  owner.  The  wrecking  was  done  under 
the  direction  of  a government  officer,  and  some  insignificant 
articles  were  brought  here  several  days  after  the  arrival  of 
the  shipwrecked  ones. 


380 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


LETTER  XXXIX. 

U.  S.  Flag-Ship,  Hartford, 

Hiogo,  Japan,  January  20,  1868. 

My  Dear  R. : 

I would  commence  this  letter  with  “ Glory,  Glory,  Halle- 
lujah, ” over  1 he  good  news  which  I have  to  communicate 
concerning  the  satisfactory  and  peaceable  opening  of  the  ports 
of  Osaca  and  Hiogo,  January  1st,  and  the  prospect  of  soon 
starting  for  home,  did  I not  also  have  to  narrate  the  melan- 
choly fate  of  our  Admiral,  Flag-lieutenant,  and  ten  shipmates. 
Certainly  no  period  of  our  cruise  has  had  more  interesting, 
joyful,  and  sorrowful  moments  than  that  which  has  intervened 
since  the  date  of  my  last  letter  to  you.  But  to  return  to  Nag- 
asaki, and  the  narration  of  the  events  in  the  order  of  their 
occurrence. 

We  left  Nagasaki,  Tuesday,  December  16th,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  following  Thursday  dropped  anchor  off  the 
exceedingly  beautiful  and  picturesque  town  of  Simonosaki 
on  the  northern  or  Niphon  side  of  the  straits  of  the  same 
name  at  the  entrance  to  the  Inland  Sea.  I have  seen  many 
lovely  sites,  in  our  rambles  about  China  and  Japan,  but  I 
have  never  seen  any  whose  natural  beauties,  and  the  natural 
beauties  heightened  and  perfected  by  art,  were  equal  to  those 
of  Simonosaki.  On  one  knoll  is  to  be  seen  a group  of  fine 
temples  overshadowed  by  a beautiful  grove  of  trees,  on  an- 
other a noble  palace  with  its  handsomely  terraced  gardens 
and  grounds,  in  the  ravine  between  them  a collection  of  neat 
farm-houses — these  with  many  other  beautiful,  and  tastefully 
conceived  features,  go  to  form  a belle  vue , which  will  ever 
remain  stamped  upon  my  memory. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


381 


The  Japanese  are  passionately  fond  of  flowers,  and  the 
dwarfing  of  shrubs  and  trees  is  carried  by  them  to  a high  state 
of  perfection.  Of  the  latter  I saw  some  of  the  finest  specimens 
at  Simonosaki.  I saw  a number  of  perfect  oaks,  upward  of 
fifty  years  old,  that  were  scarcely  more  than  six  feet  high, 
and  fifteen  in  circumference  at  the  point  where  the  branches 
were  most  wide  spread.  I also  noticed  several  pines,  ^warf- 
ed  in  equal  proportion,  and  with  the  additional  interesting 
feature  that  the  branches  were  trained  to  grow  out  in  a near- 
ly horizontal  direction,  instead  of  having  an  upward  tendency 
as  is  natural.  Other  trees  and  shrubs  I saw,  dwarfed,  and 
with  their  trunks  tied  in  curious  knots,  or  with  their  branch- 
es pruned  and  trained  so  as  to  represent  some  desired  profile 
or  character. 

At  Simonosaki  the  straits  are  less  than  a mile  in  width 
and  the  shores  on  both  sides  present  admirable  natural  advan- 
tages for  fortifications,  which  would  effectually  command  this 
entrance  to  the  Inland  Sea.  Simonosaki  is  included  within 
the  province  and  is  the  favorite  residence  of  Prince  Negato,  a 
very  wealthy  and  powerful  Daimio,  and  one  the  most  bitterly 
opposed  to  foreign  intercourse.  We  remained  there  nearly 
two  days  and  took  in  about  fifty  tons  of  miserable  coaL  It  was 
brought  there  from  a native  mine  near  by. 

When  about  fifty  miles  from  Osaca,  we  were  joined  by  the 
Iroquois,  and  with  her  anchored  a few  hours  and  had  target 
practice  with  the  battery.  We  then  continued  on  in  compa- 
ny, and  just  before  dark,  dropped  anchor  at  Hioga,  about 
seventeen  miles  distant  from  Osaco,  and  across  the  bay 
from  it. 

Hioga,  a small,  but  quite  pretty  little  town,  situated  on  the 
northwestern  side  of  a fine  large  bay  at  the  head  of  Harrima 
Nada,  the  eastern  section  of  the  Inland  Sea,  is  the  seaport 
of  Osaca.  There  all  the  shipping  lay,  and  the  foreigners  will 
doubtless  reside.  On  each  of  the  projecting  points  of  land 
which  form  the  semicircular  harbor,  is  located  a small  stone 


382 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


fortress,  each  mounting  six  or  eight  heavy  guns.  Along  the 
western  side  of  the  harbor  for  about  a mile,  the  town  stretch- 
es at  the  foot  of  a range  of  low  hills.  The  houses  which  com- 
pose it  are  low,  mostly  built  of  wood,  and  the  town  itself  has 
no  prominent  feature  worthy  of  special  note.  In  front  is  an- 
other circular,  stone  fortress,  the  largest  and  finest  of  the 
three.  Upon  the  left  or  eastern  side  of  the  harbor  is  a low, 
sandy  tract,  about  a mile  square,  which  has  been  set  apart  for 
foreign  residents,  and  is  now  partly  covered  with  rude  build- 
ings in  the  process  of  construction. 

I hope  that  you  had  a merrier  Christmas  than  we  had.  It 
was  a cold,  disagreeable  day,  and  there  was  nothing  to  show 
that  it  was  one  of  our  most  joyous  holidays.  Aside  from  this? 
and  tending  to  make  it  a peculiarly  sad  and  unpleasant  day 
for  all,  was  our  consigning  to  his  last  resting  place  the  highly 
educated,  refined,  gentlemanly,  and  universally  beloved  Dr. 
Page.  For  several  months  he  had  been  confined  to  his  room, 
in  the  last  stages  of  consumption,  and  for  more  than  a week, 
his  life  had  hung  by  a single  thread,  liable  to  be  severed  at 
any  moment.  For  a long  time  he  had  suffered  greatly,  and 
Death  to  him  was  a welcome  visitor.  He  quietly  breathed 
his  last,  on  the  morning  of  the  24th.  His  final  resting  place 
is  in  the  midst  of  a small  grove  of  pines  on  the  left  of  the 
town,  where  two  or  three  seamen  had  been  buried  before.  The 
ceremonies,  customary  upon  such  occasions,  were  performed 
on  the  ship  and  at  the  grave. 

During  the  month  of  December,  there  was  everywhere 
about  us  the  greatest  excitement,  kept  up  by  the  various 
rumors  that  were  in  circulation.  At  one  time  we  would  hear 
that  the  ports  would  be  opened  peaceably  at  the  appointed 
time,  and  then  again  the  report  would  be  that  the  Japanese 
would  oppose  the  opening  by  force  of  arms.  We  all  knew 
that  the  Tycoon  was  favorably  inclined  to  foreign  intercourse, 
and  consequently  to  the  opening  of  the  ports,  but  opposed  to 
him  were  several  of  the  most  powerful  Daimios. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


383 


The  first  of  January  finally  came,  and  not  the  first  sign  of 
difficulty  came  with  it ; but  with  apparent  readiness  and  good 
will  the  ports  of  Osaca  and  Hioga  were  opened  to  foreign 
trade  and  residence.  At  8 A.  M.  that  morning  the  vessels 
comprising  the  English  and  the  French  squadrons  “ dressed 
ship  ” with  the  Japanese  flag  at  the  main,  and  at  9 A.  M.  were 
followed  by  those  of  our  squadron.  From  the  flagstaffs  of  the 
forts,  as  well  as  froni  the  mast-heads  of  the  Japanese  war 
vessels  Fusiamma  and  La  Place  the  Japanese  colors  were 
also  floating.  Exactly  at  meridian  the  Hartford  fired  the  first 
gun  of  a national  salute,  which  was  immediately  accompanied 
by  every  man-of-war  in  the  harbor.  This,  with  the  booming  of 
the  guns  of  the  forts,  and  those  of  the  .Fusiamma,  (Ameri- 
can flag  at  the  fore  answering  our  salute,  and  the  La  Place, 
English  flag  at  the  fore  answering  their  salute,)  made  a sight 
more  imposing  and  more  impressive  than  the  natives  had 
ever  before  witnessed,  and  one  in  my  experience  only  equal- 
ed by  the  ceremonies  observed  when  the  Emperor  of  Brazil 
passed  through  the  fleets  lying  at  anchor  in  Rio.  In  the  after- 
noon two  steamer  loads  of  adventurers  were  landed  and 
before  evening  there  were  to  be  seen  the  American,  English, 
French,  and  Dutch  Consul’s  flags  flying  from  newly  erected 
flag-staffs.  Our  nation  was  represented  at  Osaca  by  the  Shen- 
andoah, Commodore  Goldsboro,  and  the  booming  of  her  elev- 
en-inch guns  could  be  distinctly  heard  across  the  bay,  fifteen 
miles  distant.  Notwithstanding  their  apparent  readiness  to 
open  the  ports,  the  Japanese  do  not  seem  to  entertain  as  kind 
and  cordial  feelings  towards  us  as  were  hoped  for.  Thus  far 
they  have  furnished  us  those  articles  which  we  required,  with 
much  apparent  reluctance,  and  at  almost  fabulous  prices. 
With  this,  everywhere  and  in  everything  it  is  to  be  noticed, 
that  the  dislike  to  foreigners  and  foreign  intercourse  is  gain- 
ing ground  daily  and  unless  some  change  is  soon  made  for 
the  better,  it  will  terminate  in  open  rupture.  Still  we  are  all 
hopeful  that  our  fears  may  prove  groundless,  and  that  our  in- 
tercourse may  grow  more  close  and  friendly  every  day. 


384 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


I consider  that  one  of  the  most  important  and  interesting  sub- 
jects connected  with  this  empire,  and  our  visits  to  it,  is  its  re- 
establishment to  foreign  intercourse,  after  its  ports  have  been 
so  long  hermetically  sealed  to  the  world,  or  at  least  the  great- 
er portion  of  it.  The  success  of  Japan  in  maintaining  her 
long  seclusion  is  difficult  to  understand,  especially  when  we 
take  into  consideration  the  never  ceasing  encroachments  of 
European  nations,  and  their  unscrupulous  exercise  of  power 
in  extending  their  commerce  to  every  quarter  of  the  globe. 
We  can  see  that  the  re-opening  of  the  country  has  been  the 
inevitable  result  of  currents  of  commercial  progress  of  mod- 
ern times,  setting  in  from  different  quarters,  and  finally  unit- 
ing here,  after  having  reached  China  on  the  one  hand,  and 
California  on  the  other.  However,  the  Japanese  are  a pro- 
gressive people,  and  but  for  the  conservative  tendency  of  the 
feudal  system,  would  now  have  been  much  farther  advanced. 
Probably  the  government  of  the  Tycoon  is  the  more  progres- 
sive branch,  but  this  is  not  liberal  in  the  highest  sense,  and 
makes  use  of  its  absolute  power  to  prevent  any  but  the  high- 
er class  from  receiving  the  advantages  of  the  higher  grades 
of  education  made  accessible  by  the  opening  of  the  country. 
However  we  have  great  occasions  for  rejoicing  at  the  pro- 
gress that  has  already  been  made,  and  must  still,  and  the  more 
earnestly  strive  to  further  on  the  work  begun. 

Early  Wednesday  morning,  January  8th,  the  Shenandoah, 
(which  had  returned  from  Osaca,  the  day  previous,)  Iroquois 
and  Aroostook  were  signalized  to  make  the  usual  prepara- 
tions for  getting  under  way.  About  an  hour  later  we  all 
weighed  anchor,  and  started  for  Osaca,  w’here  we  arrived  af- 
ter about  two  hours  sailing  ; anchoring  about  a mile  from  the 
beach.  In  form  the  harbor  there  is  much  similar  to  that  of 
Hioga,  being  a wide  semicircle,  but  the  water  is  so  shallow 
that  vessels  are  forced  to  lie  a long  distance  out  from  the 
shore.  In  fact,  there  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  a harbor 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


385 


there,  inasmuch  as  it  is  exposed  to  all  but  the  easterly  winds, 
and  in  any  but  the  most  pleasant  weather  affords  a very  in- 
secure anchorage.  No  shipping  (more  than  one  or  two  ves- 
sels at  a time  on  extraordinary  occasions)  will  ever  lie  there, 
but  will  lie  at  Hioga,  which,  as  I have  mentioned,  is  the  port 
of  Osaca. 

Emptying  into  the  bight  of  this  roadstead  is  the  Osaca  riv- 
er some  eight  or  ten  miles  up  which  the  town  of  Osaca  stands. 
The  river  is  about  a mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  guarded 
by  a large  stone  fortress  mounting  twenty-five  or  thirty  heavy 
guns.  The  city  of  Osaca  stretches  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
river  for  upward  of  six  miles.  Its  population  is  estimated  at 
865,000, — the  second  city  in  size  in  the  empire,  and  the  first 
in  commercial  importance.  Several  fine  arched  stone  bridges 
can  be  seen  spanning  the  river  at  short  intervals,  approach- 
ing, and  along  in  front  of,  the  city,  while  on  either  side  of  the 
stream,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  is  a perfect  forest  of  masts, 
belonging  to  the  almost  innumerable  numfoer  of  junks  by 
which  the  commerce  of  the  city  is  carried  on.  But  the  most 
important  feature  in  the  river,  is  the  Tycoon’s  palace,  which 
occupies  a prominent  site  on  a bend  in  the  river,  near  the  up- 
per end  of  the  city.  This  is  variously  estimated  as  being 
from  one  and  one-half  to  three  miles  in  circuit,  and  its  walls 
are  full  thirty-five  feet  high,  and  twenty  wide  at  the  top.  It 
is  constructed  of  huge  white  stones,  the  walls  having  a 
sloping  outer  face.  It  is  considered  by  all  to  be  the  finest 
and  strongest  fortress  in  this  part  of  the  world,  and  very  few 
there  are  anywhere  that  can  compare  with  it.  The  Osaca 
river  takes  its  rise  in  Lake  Binake,  about  forty  miles  to  the 
northeast  from  its  mouth.  On  the  southern  side  of  this  lake 
is  situated  Miaco,  the  residence  of  the  Mikado. 

Saturday,  January  11th,  will  ever  remain  a dark  day  in 
the  calendar  of  all  the  Hartford’s  crew,  for  upon  it  transpired 
the  most  saddening  event  of  our  cruise,  the  drowning  of  Ad- 
miral Bell,  Flag-Lieutenant  J.  H.  Reed,  and  ten  of  the  barge’s 


386 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


crew  while  attempting  to  cross  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Osaca  river.  The  three  days  that  we  had  been  lying  there, 
the  wind  had  been  blowing  very  strong  from  the  northward — 
causing  the  surf  to  run  very  high  on  the  bar,  and  preventing 
us  from  holding  communication  with  our  minister  at  Osaca- 
Before  breakfast  that  morning  the  Admiral,  doubtless  anx- 
ious to  finish  our  transactions  so  that  we  could  return  to’ 
Hong  Kong  and  prepare  for  home,  went  upon  the  poop  and 
looked  long  and  anxiously  at  the  bar  over  which  the  heavy 
seas  were  breaking.  For  a few  minutes  he  stood  watching 
some  junks  going  in  with  a fair  wind ; then  turning  to  the 
quartermaster  on  watch,  he  asked  him  if  he  thought  it  would 
be  safe  to  venture  over  the  bar  that  morning  in  the  barge, 
He  replied  that  he  did  not  think  it  would  be  safe.  “ Why,  ” 
says  the  Admiral,  “those  junks  seem  to  go  over  well  enough 
and  why  can’t  the  barge  do  as  well?  I think  that  it  can.” 
To  this  the  quartermaster  replies,  “ Yes,  sir,  but  those  junks 
are  entirely  differently  constructed  boats  from  the  barge, 
and  are  peculiarly  adapted  to  going  through  the  surf  before 
a fair  wind.  ” With  no  further  remarks  the  Admiral  went 
into  the  cabin  again,  and  soon  after  sent  word  to  Mr.  Reed 
to  get  ready  to  go  ashore  with  him.  About  9 A.  M.  he 
ordered  his  barge  to  be  “ called  away.  ” Mr.  Reed  then  re- 
marked to  some  of  the  officers  in  the  wardroom  “ I would 
like  to  see  a subscription  started  for  a monument  for  us,  be- 
fore we  go  ashore,”  and  again  as  he  was  going  over  the 
gangway  he  said  “ stand  by  to  save  us.  ” 

The  ill-fated  boat  left  the  ship  at  about  9.30  A.  M.,  and  a 
pull  of  about  ten  minutes  brought  them  to  the  first  line  of 
breakers  on  the  bar.  Nearly  every  eye  in  the  ship  was 
watching  the  progress  of  the  boat  hopefully  and  prayerfully; 
but  soon  after  entering  the  breakers,  the  barge  was  plainly 
seen  to  “ broach  to,”  and  shortly  to  capsi  ze.  A cry  of  horror 
burst  forth,  thrilling  every  one,  as  such  a cry  can  do,  — “ The 
barge  has  capsized ! ” Capsized ! and  on  such  a day  as  this ! 


he  j aicoon’s  Palace. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


387 


Why,  a man  would  certainly  be  chilled  through  before  assist- 
ance can  be  afforded  him,  with  the  thermometer  standing 
away  down  below  the  freezing  point ! Surely  they  can  never 
survive  it;”  were  the  thoughts  if  not  the  words  of  all.  How- 
ever, the  boats  were  immediately  lowered  and  manned  and 
signals  made  that  the  barge  had  capsized.  The  fourth  cut- 
ter, which  had  been  kept  manned  in  case  there  should  be  any 
accident,  swamped  alongside  the  ship,  but  in  a moment  after, 
the  third  cutter,  under  the  charge  of  Lieut.  Sands,  gallantly 
pulled  to  the  rescue.  This  was  soon  followed  by  the  first 
cutter,  under  the  charge  of  Lieut.  Comdr.  Higginson  and 
Boatswain  Long,  and  boats  from  the  Shenandoah,  Iroquois, 
and  Aroostook. 

Although  the  third  cutter  was  only  four  minutes  in  reach- 
ing the  scene  of  the  disaster  after  leaving  the  ship,  and  barely 
ten  minutes  after  the  barge  capsized,  even  this  short  time 
proved  too  long  for  the  poor  wretches  in  the  water,  and  when 
the  boats  came  up  only  three  were  to  be  seen — Patrick  Deve- 
ney,  clinging  to  the  bottom  of  the  barge;  John  Churo,  cling- 
ing to  an  oar  near  by ; and,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  off, 
Samuel  Van  Vleet,  who  being  unable  to  swim,  had  had  the 
precaution  to  lash  himself  to  three  oars  with  his  neck-ker- 
chief. The  first  two  mentioned  were  picked  up  by  our  boat, 
and  the  third  by  the  Aroostook,  and  immediately  brought  off 
to  the  ship,  in  a very  low  condition.  Restoratives  and  good 
care  soon  made  them  as  well  as  ever  again.  When  last  seen, 
Mr.  Reed  was  trying  to  assist  a seaman  that  could  not  swim. 
He  saw  the  boats  approaching,  and  called  out  to  the  Admi- 
ral, then  seen  on  the  bottom  of  the  barge,  to  hold  out  a few 
minutes  longer,  as  help  was  coming ; but  both  were  forced  to 
succumb  to  the  chilling  effects  of  the  water. 

At  1.30  P.  M.,  the  third  cutter  went  in  the  second  time, 
under  the  charge  of  Lieut-Comdr.  Higginson  and  Boatswain 
Long,  with  a steering  oar.  They  returned  two  hours  later, 
bringing  off  the  body  of  Admiral  Bell,  which  was  found  on 


388 


CHINA  AND  JArAN, 


the  beach  near  the  fort.  They  immediately  went  in  again, 
and  this  time  returned  with  the  body  of  Peterson,  also  found 
on  the  beach.  The  Shenandoah  and  Iroquois  sent  boats  in 
shore  to  remain  all  night,  and  the  next  morning  they  returned, 
bringing  the  bodies  of  Flag-Lieut.  Reed,  Ernest,  Redmond, 
and  Nichols.  At  1 P.  M.  that  same  day  we  got  under  way, 
and  in  company  with  the  Shenandoah,  returned  to  Higoa ; 
and  on  the  following  day  the  Iroquois  came  over  bringing  the 
remainder  of  the  dead  bodies. 

The  following  is  the  list  of  the  drowned : Rear  Admiral  H. 
H.  Bell,  Flag-Lieut.  J.  H.Reed, Coxswain  Harry  Ernest;  Sea- 
men, John  Peterson,  Moses  Redmond,  Charles  Baldwin,  Orlop 
Holmburg  Thomas  Davis ; Ordinary  Seamen,  Bernard  Red- 
dy, Edward  Nickols,  William  Rickett,  and  John  U.  Small. 

Thus  ended  our  long  talked  of  and  much  anticipated  visit 
to  Osaca — unpleasant  and  sorrowful  in  the  extreme  from  be- 
ginning to  end.  I do  not  think  that  one  of  the  crew  will 
ever  forget  our  sad  sojourn  there  in  January,  1868 ; and  it 
seems  to  be  the  universal  wish  that  we  may  never  visit  the 
place  again.  Ever  since  the  disaster  all  the  flags  have  been 
kept  at  half-mast,  as  also  the  Rear  Admiral’s  pennant. 

In  Admiral  Bell  the  country  has  lost  one  of  its  best  and 
most  polished  representatives,  the  Navy  one  of  its  ablest  offi- 
cers, the  crew  of  the  Hartford  a true  friend,  the  circle  of  his 
friends  and  acquaintances  one  of  its  brightest  ornaments.  No 
one  could  know  him  but  to  admire  and  respect  as  well  as  love 
him,  and  all  feel  sad  at  his  melancholy  fate,  peculiarly  so  since 
the  sorrowful  event  occurred  when  he  was  about  to  retire 
from  a long  career  of  usefulness,  to  enjoy  for  the  few  remain- 
ing years  which  in  the  ordinary  course  of  events  might  be 
spared  him,  the  society  and  intercourse  of  those  dear  ones 
from  whom  he  had  so  often  and  so  long  been  separated.  F or 
all  his  friends  there  is  left  this  comforting  thought,  that  he 
had  lived  a good  Christian’s  life  and  was  fully  prepared  to 
die.  What  is  our  loss  is  his  great  gain. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER; 


389 


Lieut.  Comdr.  Reed,  although  very  young  when  he  met 
with  his  untimely  end,  had  distinguished  himself  in  several 
instances,  and  proved  himself  to  possess  more  than  ordinary 
abilities,  intrepidity,  and  courage. 

Charles  Baldwin  was  the  only  one  of  the  old  Wachusett’s 
crew  in  the  barge  at  the  time  it  was  capsized,  and  the  only 
one  with  whom  I had  any  extensive  personal  acquaintance  > 
but  so  far  as  I have  been  able  to  learn  from  their  messmates 
and  acquaintances,  the  men  lost  were,  without  exception, 
good  thorough  seamen  ; and  among  the  best  and  most  esti- 
mated messmates,  Moses  Redmond’s  story  is  the  saddest  one  of 
all.  For  the  last  eleven  years  he  has  been  endeavoring  to 
get  home  from  China  to  the  States.  Eight  different  attempts 
had  he  made  — getting  shipwrecked  each  time.  The  last 
time,  he  reached  Mauritius,  and  was  there  again  shipwrecked. 
At  that  port  he  shipped  on  board  the  Wyoming  when  on  her 
way  out,  hoping  thus  to  get  home  eventually.  When  told 
that  he  was  to  be  transferred  on  board  of  the  Hartford,  he 
exclaimed,  “I  have  been  trying  to  get  home  for  eleven  years, 
and  I shipped  on  board  of  the  Wyoming  hoping  to  get  home 
in  her ; but  from  the  Hartford  I shall  be  transferred  to  the 
Shenandoah,  and  from  her  to  some  other  vessel,  and  — my 
God  ! it  does  seem  as  though  I was  doomed  to  die  out  here ! ” 
Alas,  poor  fellow  ! his  forebodings  have  proved  too  true. 

Our  carpenter’s  gang,  with  assistants  from  the  Shenan- 
doah, Iroquois,  and  Oneida  were  occupied  for  two  days  and 
one  night  in  making  coffins  for  the  dead ; and  go  where  you 
would,  our  ship,  more  than  I thought  it  possible  for  a man- 
of-war,  looked  like  a House  of  Death.  The  entire  after  por- 
tion of  the  berth-deck  was  screened  off,  and  the  barge’s  crew 
Were  laid  out,  dressed  in  white.  The  cabin . too,  and  ward- 
room had  their  dead ; and  all  around,  above  and  below, 
scarcely  anything  could  be  seen  going  on  but  preparations 
for  the  funeral.  Seldom  was  there  a smile  on  any  counte- 
nance, the  thoughts  as  well  as  the  labors  being  with  the  dead. 


390 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Never  again  do  I wish  to  see,  or  have  an  occasion  for  seeing, 

such  an  universal  mourning. 

© 

The  day  following  the  disaster,  the  crew  were  mustered, 
and  “ General  Orders  Nos.  1 and  2 ” read  from  Commodore 
J.  R.  Goldsboro.  No.  1 spoke  of  the  death  by  drowning  of 
Rear  Admiral  H.  H.  Bell,  Lieut.  Comdr.  J.  H.  Reed,  and  ten 
of  the  barge’s  crew,  at  Osaca.  No.  2 said,  that  in  conse- 
quence of  the  death  of  Admiral  Bell,  Commodore  Goldsboro 
assumed  command  of  the  Asiatic  Squadron,  but  that  all  orders 
of  the  late  Admiral  should  continue  in  force.  Then  followed 
directions  for  the  funeral. 

At  9 A.  M.  Tuesday  morning,  January  14th,  the  marines 
from  all  the  vessels  in  the  squadron  assembled  in  full  uni- 
form on  board  the  Hartford,  and  were  from  her  landed  on 
shore  to  form,  and  receive  the  bodies  when  they  should  be 
landed.  A 10.30  A.  M.  the  boats  began  to  assemble  at  the 
Hartford,  and  then  after  prayer  by  the  Chaplain,  the  bodies 
were  hoisted  over  the  side  and  placed  in  the  boats  prepared 
for  them.  Precisely  at  11  A.  M.  the  boats  formed  in  pro- 
cession and  started  for  the  shore.  The  English  joined  in  the 
ceremonies,  and  in  the  procession  their  boats  occupied  the 
left  flank.  The  marines  were  drawn  up  in  line  on  the  beach, 
and  came  to  a “ present,”  and  the  music  gave  “ three  rolls  ” 
as  each  body  was  borne  past.  In  the  procession  from  the 
boats  to  the  grave  the  marines  under  command  of  Captain 
Forney,  with  reversed  arms,  took  the  lead;  next  came  the 
fine  band  of  H.  B.  M.’s  Ocean  which  had  been  kindly  ten- 
dered for  the  occasion ; then  our  Chaplain  and  the  Chaplain 
of  the  Ocean  in  front  of  the  bodies,  which  were  borne  along 
in  the  order  of  their  rank.  By  the  side  of  the  bodies  of  An- 
miral  Bell  and  Flag-Lieut.  Reed  walked  some  of  the  highest 
officers  in  the  American  and  English  squadrons.  By  the  side 
of  the  barge’s  crew  walked  the  three  survivors,  and  behind 
them  came  the  sailors  in  two  columns  of  four  abreast,  ours  one 
the  right  and  the  English  on  the  left,  while  a vast  concourse 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


391 


of  citizens  and  natives  brought  up  the  rear.  As  we  were 
marching  along  thus,  with  no  sound  to  be  heard  save  the 
heavy  tramp  of  the  thousands  and  the  band  playing  the  sol- 
emn “ Dead-March  in  Saul,”  the  untimely  fate  of  our  beloved 
shipmates  was  so  vividly  presented  to  our  minds  that  'many 
an  eye  was  moistened  with  tears.  At  the  grave  the  usual 
ceremonies  were  performed,  and  the  Admiral,  Flag-Lieut., 
and  ten  men  of  the  barge’s  crew  buried,  side  by  side.  As  the 
boats  “shoved  off”  from  the  Hartford  she  commenced  firing  a 
salute  of  thirteen  minute  guns.  As  the  echo  of  the  last  one 
died  away  the  Shenandoah  took  up  the  burden  and  was  follow- 
ed in  turn  by  the  Iroquois  and  Oneida,  each  firing  the  same 
number,  thus  prolonging  the  salute  and  making  it  more 
solemn,  if  that  were  possible.  Returning  to  the  boats  from 
the  grave  the  band  played  the  beautiful  and  appropriate 
air,  “A  Life  on  the  Ocean  Wave.”  At  sunset,  the  late  Ad- 
miral’s pennant  was  saluted  with  thirteen  guns,  and  then 
hauled  down,  thus  completing  the  ceremonies  of  tribute  to 
his  memory  and  to  that  of  the  brave  ones  who  perished 
with  him. 

A day  after  this,  a friend  and  myself  obtained  permission 
to  go  on  shore  on  business.  We  were  landed  at  the  little 
hettle-bar  in  front  of  the  central  fort.  To  transact  our 
business  was  the  work  of  but  a few  minutes ; and  then,  as 
we  had  the  greater  portion  of  the  day  before  us,  we  deter- 
mined to  provide  horses  and  ride  around  to  Osaca.  To  pro- 
cure horses  we  found  to  be  no  easy  matter : but  after  fruitless 
search  of  half  an  hour,  we  met  our  compradore  who  easily 
obtained  two  fine  ponies  for  us.  Mounting  these,  and  with  a 
truly  native  guide,  we  took  the  road  leading  from  Hioga  to 
Osaca,  riding  slowly  so  as  to  examine  and  admire  the  country 
through  which  we  passed. 

After  leaving  Hioga  the  country  is  gently  Undulating  all 
the  way  to  Osaca.  We  passed  some  fine  groves  on  our  way, 
but  saw  nothing  extraordinary,  horticulturally  speaking,  ex- 


392 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


cept  some  fine  shrubs  and  plants.  At  points  along  our  route 
we  saw  the  farmers  preparing  the  ground  for  the  next  crop. 
In  this,  as  well  as  in  cultivation,  an  instrument  like  a garden 
spade,  fixed  to  a handle  like  a hoe,  is  almost  exclusively 
used.’  A plow  is  rarely  met  with.  Almost  everything  in 
Japan  is  planted  or  sown  in  drills,  and  the  whole  system  of 
husbandry  is  more  like  horticulture  than  agriculture.  The 
productions  are  nearly  all  those  belonging  to  the  temperate 
zone  in  other  countries.  Tea,  cotton,  and  silk  are  the  prin- 
cipal products  that  find  a foreign  market.  Tea,  for  their  own 
use,  can  be  seen  grown  by  all  the  farmers  in  their  own 
yards.  The  tillers  of  the  soil  are  held  in  high  estimation,  but 
are  generally  poor  (or  appear  to  be  so,)  in  consequence  of  the 
enormous  draft  made  on  the  product  of  their  labor  by  a nu- 
merous indolent,  non-producing,  privileged  class. 

At  the  entrance  of  villages  and  towns,  and  at  prominent 
points  by  the  wayside  I had  frequently  noticed  bright  tablets 
posted  up,  and  containing  several  Japanese  characters.  No- 
ticing one  on  our  way  to  Osaca,  I asked  the  guide  what  it  was 
for.  He  told  me  that  these  tablets  contained  the  inscription 
naming  the  fearful  and  certain  punishments  for  any  one  who 
may  profess  Christianity.  He  further  said,  that  about  three 
hundred  years  ago,  a number  of  Jesuit  priests  came  to  this 
country,  and  for  a time  were  very  popular,  and  converted 
many  of  the  natives.  After  about  fifty  years  of  unparalelled 
success,  they  began  to  thirst  for  temporal  power  and  to  lay 
plans  to  obtain  it.  The  Emperor,  alarmed,  issued  a decree 
of  expulsion,  and  under  the  stringent  laws  made  against  the 
profession  of  the  Catholic  faith,  a most  fearful  persecution 
followed.  Ever  since  that  time  it  has  been  obligatory  for 
everybody  to  subscribe  himself  at  some  Buddhist  temple,  at 
the  risk  of  being  thought  a Christian,  which  is  worse  than 
death,  as  it  would  include  the  sacrifice  of  his  family  and 
nearest  relatives  as  well  as  himself.  Until  the  government 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


393 


repeals  these  laws  our  missionaries  will  not  make  many  con- 
verts. 

As  we  entered  the  little  village  about  midway  between 
Hioga  and  Osaca,  we  saw  that  a large  crowd  was  collected. 
They  set  up  yells  and  shouts  as  we  approached,  but  when 
we  charged  upon  them  with  our  horses,  the  “small-fry”  scat- 
tered in  every  direction ; but  as  soon  as  the  horses  went  on 
again,  the  shouts  became  more  vigorous.  It  was  only  by  the 
aid  of  a yctcumin  that  they  could  be  brought  to  reason.  The 
way  that  he  managed  was  simple  in  the  extreme.  A mere 
wave  of  his  fan  was  sufficient  to  produce  silence  among  more 
than  a hundred  people,  many  of  which  wore  two  swords. 
Verily,  the  Japanese  police  is  perfect ! A more  convincing 
proof  of  their  efficacy  could  scarcely  be  found. 

Arriving  on  the  outskirts  of  Osaca,  we  saw  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  bits  of  architecture  imaginable.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  a large  quadrangle  rose  a wooden  pagoda,  with  dragons 
and  other  devices  painted  on  it,  and  the  Chinese  curly  roof. 
It  was  surrounded  by  temples  and  situated  in  a beautiful 
park.  We  went  into  the  inn,  and  after  lunch,  we  had  a walk 
around  the  courtyard  of  the  temple.  This  was  made  lively 
by  the  policemen  and  soldiers  sitting  in  groups,  smoking  and 
talking.  The  horses  were  enjoying  their  meal  and  we  our 
cigars,  so  we  were  loth  to  leave  so  quiet  a scene.  But  the 
interior  of  the  inn  was  equally  curious ; folding  screens  in  all 
directions,  forming  rooms,  in  which  yacumins  were  writing 
accounts,  others  eating  dinner,  others  again  smoking  pipes ; 
and  servants  were  running  about  bringing  such  articles  as 
were  wished.  The  kitchen  presented  a wonderfully  ani- 
mated scene.  There  were  charcoal  fires,  and  boiling  and 
frying  were  going  on  in  all  directions.  There  was  a great 
clapping  of  hands  to  call  domestics,  the  responding  “ He  ! ” 
answering  to  our  “ Coming,  Sir ! ” Here  we  were  waited 
upon  by  young  girls,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  yacumins, 
who  seemed  to  show  themselves  particularly  solicitous  for  our 
18 


394 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


morals.  With  the  aid  of  the  guide,  we  had  a few  minutes’ 
very  pleasant  chat  with  them,  and  the  damsels  bowed  their 
heads  gracefully  as  we  bade  the  m “good-bye.” 

Leaving  the  guide  with  the  horses  at  the  inn,  we  set  out 
for  a short  ramble  about  Osaca,  the  Paris  of  Japan.  We 
crossed  the  lodoga-wa  or  Osaca  river  in  a native  boat,  and 
entered  the  northern  part  of  the  city.  In  many  parts  of  the 
city,  and  especially  in  the  southern  part,  we  saw  many  fine 
palaces  and  temples.  A large  canal  supplies  the  southern 
part  of  the  city  with  water,  and  several  small  channels  cut 
from  the  larger  pass  through  the  chief  streets,  deep  enough 
to  float  small  boats,  which  bring  goods  to  the  merchants’ 
doors.  More  than  a hundred  bridges,  many  of  them  extraor- 
dinarily beautiful,  span  these  channels.  The  city  is  very 
populous,  and  the  Japanese  boast  that  it  can  raise  an  army  of 
eighty  thousand  men. 

We  both  wished  that  we  had  had  more  time  to  spend  in 
looking  about  the  city,  and  especially  to  visit  the  Tycoon’s 
palace.  As  it  was,  what  little  time  we  did  spend  there  we 
had  but  little  opportunity  to  see  anything  but  the  people. 
Everywhere  that  we  went  we  wrere  followed  by  an  immense 
throng  of  every  age  and  of  both  sexes,  who  viewed  us  with 
the  greatest  wonder  and  curiosity.  Evidently  the  most  of 
them  had  seen  but  little  of  Europeans  if  they  had  ever  seen 
one,  and  many  times  we  had  difficulty  to  force  our  way 
along. 

Soon  after  entering  the  city,  we  made  the  startling  dis- 
covery that  we  had  but  one  tempo  — two  cents  — left,  and 
that  we  had  either  lost  our  purses  or  left  them  on  board  the  ship. 
The  latter  we  afterwards  found  to  have  been  the  case.  This 
was  to  us  a very  serious  state  of  affairs;  for  without  money, 
we  could  neither  recross  the  river  nor  obtain  our  horses  from 
the  inn.  For  a few  moments  we  were  puzzled  enough  to 
know  what  tvas  best  to  be  done,  and  were  upon  the  point  of 
endeavoring  to  make  a sale  of  some  article,  when  B ’s 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


395 


ever  fertile  brain  ushered  into  existence  a feasable  plan  to 
extricate  us  from  our  difficulties;  and  shouting  “ Eureka  ! ” 
he  straightway  proceeded  to  put  it  into  execution.  Taking 
the  tempo , he  went  to  a small  stand  at  the  side  of  the  street, 
and  purchased  with  it  a rude  flute.  Several  times  during 
the  cruise  he  had  attempted  to  play  the  fife  or  flute,  but  had 
never  succeeded  in  making  more  than  a noise.  But  taking 
the  flute,  we  proceeded  up  the  street  until  we  came  to  a 
small  square.  This  was  thronged  with  people  anxious  to  see 

us.  B now  took  the  flute,  and  mounting  a stone  dais 

near  the  center  of  the  square,  proceeded  to  make  a noise , 
accompanying  the  music  by  an  occasional  “ step,”  which, 
like  the  music,  was  a decided  “ brakedown ” However,  the 
“Japs”  appeared  to  enjoy  it  mightily,  judging  by  the  way 
they  laughed,  shouted  and  cheered,  — doubtless  not  knowing 

but  that  B was  playing  some  choice  American  airs. 

My  part  in  the  programme  was  to  “ pass  round  the  hat  ” oc- 
casionally, which  I did  ; and  in  a very  short  time  we  had  a 
load  of  tempos  — sufficient  for  our  wants.  But  the  “Japs” 
were  not  content  to  allow  us  to  stop  there,  but  kept  us  per- 
forming for  half  an  hour  or  more,  until  we,  by  signs,  made 
them  understand  that  we  were  tired  and  could  perform  no 
more.  I leave  you  to  imagine  how  ludicrous  we  appeared. 
Every  time  that  I call  it  to  mind  I am  nearly  convulsed  with 
laughter,  as  are  all  that  have  heard  our  story. 

The  “ Japs  ” seemed  loth  to  part  with  us ; but  as  it  was 
getting  late,  we  made  them  understand  that  we  must  return. 
Having  partaken  of  food  and  saki  with  them,  we  crossed  the 
river,  mounted  our  horses,  and  started  for  Hioga.  Nothing 
worthy  of  note  delayed  us  on  our  return,  but  with  the  horses 
put  to  a gallop,  we  were  in  about  two  hours  at  the  Compra- 
dore’s.  Leaving  the  horses  there,  we  took  boat  for  the  ship, 
and  escaped  a reprimand  from  the  Captain  for  our  disobe- 
dience and  imprudence  in  going  to  Osaca,  by  narrating  our 
day’s  experience. 


396 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


LETTER  XL. 

U.  S.  Flag-Ship  Hartford,  Hong  Kong,  China, 

March  30,  1868. 

My  Dear  R. : 

After  the  funeral  we  remained  quietly  at  Hioga,  until  Jan- 
uary the  21st,  when  the  Shenandoah  signalized  us  to  get 
under  way  and  proceed  to  Nagasaki.  In  less  than  twenty 
minutes  afterward  we  were  steaming  down  the  harbor.  We 
anchored  nearly  every  night,  and  on  account  of  a strong  head 
wind  which  we  had  to  steam  against,  did  not  reach  Nagasaki 
until  the  26th. 

At  Nagasaki  we  remained  until  February  1st,  engaged  in 
taking  coal  and  supplies  out  of  the  store  ship  Onward,  in  giv- 
ing liberty,  and  transferring.  Fifty-four  men  were  trans- 
ferred to  the  Shenandoah  in  place  of  fifty-five  men  sent  from 
her  to  the  Hartford  ; and  on  Friday  evening,  January  31st, 
Commodore  Goldsboro  transferred  his  pennant  from  the  Shen_ 
andoah  to  the  Hartford. 

We  were  just  one  week  in  the  passage  from  Nagasaki  to 
Hong  Kong,  and  under  sail  alone  most  of  the  time.  As  we 
were  leaving  Nagasaki  the  Shenandoah  and  Onward  “manned 
the  riggings  ” and  “ cheered  ship  ” for  us,  which  compliment 
was  returned.  Loud,  ringing  cheers  they  were,  and  given 
from  the  bottom  of  our  hearts.  During  this  passage  the  mo- 
ments, and  especially  the  evenings,  were  enlivened  with  good 
“ homeward-bound  ” songs,  and  it  really  did  seem  as  if  we 
were  going  home  without  further  delay.  When  we  arrived 
at  Hong  Kong,  however,  and  received  our  mail  and  dispatches 
prom  home  with  the  news  that  we  might  have  to  remain  soma 
considerable  time  longer  on  the  station  awaiting  the  arrival  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


397 


our  Relief,  the  Piscataqua,  somehow  the  songs  changed  or 
entirely  ceased. 

From  February  8th  until  March  4th,  we  were  engaged  in 
taking  in  coal  and  provisions  and  “ fitting  ship  ” for  home,  the 
labors  being  interspersed  with  several  grants  of  money  and 
plenty  of  liberty ; so  that,  although  longing  for  the  period 
of  our  departure,  the  time  passed  quite  pleasantly  and- quickly, 
Two  interesting  features  in  China  life  came  under  my  notice 
in  my  rambles  on  shore,  and  I must  tell  you  about  them. 
One  was  revealed  by  a visit  to  some  gambling  houses  with 
an  acquaintance,  and  the  other  is  what  is  known  as  “ The 
Feast  of  Lanterns.” 

Since  I have  been  in  China  I have  witnessed  many  differ- 
ent modes  of  gambling,  and  the  Chinese  seem  to  be  perfect 
slaves  to  the  vice  under  one  form  or  another ; but  this  time 
we  met  with  a species  entirely  new  to  us.  It  is,  however, 
the  one  most  general  and  the  favorite  one  with  the  Chinese. 
By  them  it  is  called  Fanton,  or  “ Game  of  Fours.”  Crowd- 
ing through  a throng  of  Chinamen  around  a large  table  at  one 
extremity  of  a spacious  hall,  we  watched  the  game  for  a few 
minutes  and  soon  gained  an  insight  into  its  mysteries.  Near 
the  centre  of  the  table  is  a metal  plate,  some  six  or  eight 
inches  square,  the  sides  of  which  are  numbered  one,  two? 
three,  four,  — No.  1 being  toward  the  teller.  Between  this 
plate  and  the  teller  is  a large  pile  of  checks,  about  the  size 
and  form  of  “ cash”  and  numbering  some  ten  or  twelve  hund- 
red. An  unknown  number  of  the  checks  are  separated  from 
the  pile  and  instantly  covered.  Now  is  the  time  to  make  bets ; 
and  in  doing  so,  a person  may  bet  on  any  one  of  the  four 
sides,  or  on  two  or  three  of  them,  and  lays  the  money  down  on 
the  side  or  sides  chosen.  When  all  the  bets  are  made,  the 
cover  is  removed  from  the  pile  of  “ cash,”  and  the  teller  pro- 
ceeds to  draw  them  in  with  a long  needle,  four  at  a time. 
Whatever  number  remains  the  corresponding  numbered  side 
of  the  plate  wins,  and  whoever  has  bet  on  that  side  receives  his 


398 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


money  back,  and  in  addition  three  times  that  amount,  minus 
fifteen  per  cent.,  which  goes  to  the  bank.  All  those  that  have 
bet  on  other  sides  lose  and  their  stakes  go  to  the  bank.  About 
a year  ago  the  English  licensed  those  gambling  houses  that 
are  situated  within  their  jurisdiction,  and  by  so  doing  have 
brought  them  into  more  general  notice ; and  now  they  are 
becoming  a favorite  resort  for  Europeans  as  well  as  Chinese. 

While  speaking  about  these  establishments,  I will  narrate 
an  adventure  which  two  of  us  had  during  our  visit  to  Wham- 
poa. One  pleasant  afternoon  while  we  were  lying  there. 

S , who  by  the  way  is  one  of  the  most  noted  gamblers 

I ever  knew,  and  the  most  passionately  fond  of  gambling 
came  to  me  and  asked  if  I did  not  wish  to  go  up  to  Canton  with 
him  that  afternoon.  I had  intended  to  have  gone  up  the  day 
previous,  but  a headache  prevented  me ; and  wishing  very 
much  to  visit  the  city  again,  and  not  caring  to  go  alone, 
I thankfully  accepted  his  invitation.  We  employed  one  of 
the  many  boats  which  thronged  the  ship’s  side,  and  with  both 
wind  and  tide  favorable,  in  less  than  an  hour  and  a half  we 
were  ascending  the  steps  of  the  little  pier  in  front  of  the 
“ Tact  orris.”  We  spent  an  hour  or  so  in  examining  the  many 
wonderful  and  attractive  articles  of  ivory,  tortoise-shell,  san- 
dal-wood, and  lacquer  displayed  in  the  “shops”  along  Curi- 
osity street,  and  making  a few  purchases,  we  then  entered 
the  city  through  a gate  near  the  head  of  the  street,  and 
walked  along  some  two  or  three  miles  without  seeing  any- 
thing unusual  to  attract  our  attention.  Finally  S pro- 

posed entering  the  gambling  house  near  where  we  then  were, 
saying  that  he  “ must  play  a little,”  — something  that  he  had 
not  done  for  two  whole  days ! Not  caring  to  go  about  the 
city  alone,  and  being  desirous  to  understand  better  a game 
which  is  now  of  so  much  interest  to  all  visiting  China,  I went 
in  with  him  and  watched  the  play.  While  the  Chinese  would 
almost  invariably  stake  their  money  on  the  last  winning  num- 
ber, S would  bet  on  the  same  number  every  time,  mak- 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


399 


ing  each  successive  bet  double  the  preceding  one,  until  his 
“ number  ” should  win ; then  he  would  begin  low  again  — 
usually  making  his  first  stake  ten  cents.  Under  ordinary 
circumstances  his  number  would  win  once  in  four  times,  and 
by  the  doubling  process,  he  would  continually  gain.  All  of 
his  playing  that  day  was  an  unbroken  series  of  successes  ; and 
we  both  became  so  much  interested  in  the  game,  — he  in 
playing,  and  I in  looking  on,  — that  we  “took  no  note  of 
time,”  until  finally  the  “ bank  ” closed,  and  we  found  to  our 
dismay  that  it  was  nearly  midnight.  It  certainly  was  any- 
thing but  pleasant  to  be  conscious  that  we  were  in  the  heart 
of  a hostile  city  alone  at  midnight,  with  a large  sum  of 
money — something  over  two  thousand  dollars  — about  us, 
and  this  known  to  about  one  hundred  greedy,  avaricious,  evil- 
looking, unscrupulous  Chinamen  with  which  the  gambling 
house  was  thronged.  We  would  willingly  have  given  all  of 
the  ill-gotten  gains  then  to  have  been  safely  on  board  of  the 
Hartford.  'However,  we  each  of  us  had  a revolver,  and,  de- 
termining to  do  the  best  we  could,  we  took  good  care  to  dis- 
play them,  taking  them  from  our  belts  and  recapping  them  in 
their  presence,  all  the  time  taking  care  to  appear  happy  and 
unconcerned. 

With  the  money  done  up  in  handkerchiefs  and  these  car- 
ried in  our  left  hands,  with  our  right  we  grasped  our  revolv- 
ers and  started.  The  streets  of  Chinese  cities  are  not  lighted 
in  the  night  time,  nor  are  persons  allowed  to  be  out  in  the 
street  after  about  ten  o’clock.  After  this  hour  the  streets  are 
barricaded  by  wooden  barriers  placed  across  them  at  intervals 
of  about  a third  of  a mile.  At  each  one  of  these  five  or  six 
soldiers  are  stationed.  Although  there  was  some  slight  show 
of  opposition  on  the  part  of  these  guards,  yet  we  passed  the 
first  five  barriers  without  anything  worthy  of  note  taking 
place  — a full  moon  enabling  us  to  see  our  way  almost  as 
well  as  if  it  had  been  daylight.  We  had  no  difficulty  in  find- 
ing the  way,  our  previous  knowledge  of  the  same  trades  being 


400 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


confined  to  the  same  street  aiding  us,  and  we  noticed  that 
when  we  went  up  we  passed  only  clothing  and  shoe  stores. 
In  passing  through  the  dark  alley-way  which  connects  the 
two  streets  lined  with  these  stores,  about  twenty  of  our  ac- 
quaintances met  at  the  gambling  house,  armed  with  knives, 
rushed  out  from  a recess  and  attacked  us.  We  immediately 
cocked  our  revolvers  and  fired  upon  them,  taking  care  to  hit 
them  in  the  legs.  Their  courage  about  this  time  suddenly 
evaporated,  and  they  scattered  in  all  directions,  leaving  their 
wounded  — four  in  number.  We  did  not  stop  to  examine 
them,  but  pressed  on  as  fast  as  our  legs  would  carry  us,  until 
we  reached  the  gate.  This  we  found  to  be  closed  and  guarded 
by  about  twenty-five  soldiers.  They  had  heard  our  shots,  and 
were  not  disposed  to  open  the  gates  for  us  ; but  we  presented 
our  cocked  revolvers  and  intimated  that  we  would  fire  if  they 
were  not  opened  forthwith.  They  doubtless  saw  that  we  were 
in  earnest,  and  not  caring  to  contend  against  us  with  their  bows 
and  arrows  and  rude  jingals,  they  reluctantly  allowed  us  to 
depart.  But  we  took  good  care  to  keep  under  shelter  of 
the  buildings  until  we  were  at  a safe  distance  from-  the 
gate,  fearful  lest  they  might  fire  upon  us.  It  may  seem 
strange  to  you  to  think  that  we  could  have  such  an  affray  in 
the  midst  of  so  large  a city,  and  then  get  away  without  acci 
dent ; but  then  you  must  remember  that  the  Chinese  are  the 
most  veritable  cowards,  (or,  in  the  words  of  Old  Sam,” 
“ Chinaman’s  heart  allee  same  cow  : too  much  fear ; makee 
lun  away;”)  also  that  no  one  is  allowed  in  the  sireets  at 
night  time ; and  so  common  are  noises  and  disturbances  in 
the  night  that  even  the  noise  of  our  firing  aroused  no  one. 
Arriving  at  the  river’s  edge,  we  endeavored  to  hire  a boat- 
man to  take  us  down  to  the  ship,  offering  him  the  fabulous 
fare  of  five  dollars.  But  he  refused,  and  we  finally  were  com. 
pelled  to  resort  to  our  revolvers  and  compel  him.  We  did  not' 
go  directly  on  board  but  landed  at  New  Town,  and  sent  the 
boatman  back.  As  soon  as  he  was  out  of  sight  we  took 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


401 


another  boat  and  went  on  board.  We  did  this  to  avoid  being 
mixed  up  in  any  disturbance,  of  which  we  did  not  fear  the 
result,  but  only  the  possible  delay.  However,  we  never 
heard  anything  further  from  it.  Not  all  the  money  in  Can- 
ton could  induce  me  to  run  the  same  risks  the  second  time, 
nor  do  I desire  to  ever  enter  a gambling  house  again. 

“ The  Feast  of  Lanterns  ” takes  place  on  the  last  of  the 
New  Year’s  holidays,  and  varies  in  different  years  from  the 
middle  to  the  latter  part  of  the  month  of  February.  This 
year  it  occurred  on  the  13th.  It  was  shortly  after  sunset 
that  I explored  the  various  streets  and  public  places  of  resort, 
amid  a continual  discharge  of  fireworks,  the  frequent  assem- 
blages of  play  actors,  the  noise  of  gaming  tables,  the  universal 
signs  of  feasting  in  the  families,  and  a profuse  display  of  lan- 
terns of  every  imaginable  pattern  and  design.  Some  were 
made  of  glass,  others  of  glue,  and  some  of  paper,  in  the  shape 
of  birds,  beasts,  fishes,  and  dragons,  all  so  arranged  as  to  be 
carried  around  by  a current  of  rarified  air,  and  thus  repre- 
sent different  kinds  of  animals  and  junks  in  motion.  In  all 
the  principal  temples,  and  in  the  houses  of  the  wealthy,  were 
to  be  seen  huge  candles,  some  of  which  measured  raoreMhan 
two  feet  in  circumference.  Bands  of  pipers,  with  sounds  of 
gongs  and  cymbals,  were  to  be  heard  in  all  directions.  The 
principal  table  in  each  temple  was  covered  with  huge  cakes 
made  in  the  form  of  a tortoise — the  sacred  symbol  of  Buddhist 
mythology.  Some  of  the  fireworks,  especially  the  larger 
pieces,  were  finely  executed  and  very  curious  and  interesting 
in  design. 

At  all  the  principal  temples  during  the  New  Year’s  holidays 
theatrical  performances  and  other  sports  are  kept  up  by  the 
wealthy,  partly  for  the  benefit  of  the  poorer  class  and  partly 
for  their  own  spiritual  advancement.  During  this  season  the 
temples  themselves  are  beautifully  decorated  and  brilliantly 
illuminated,  and  not  unfrequently  the  sports  are  kept  up  for 
two  or  three  weeks  after  the  “ Feast  of  Lanterns.” 

18* 


402 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Thursday,  March  5th,  we  got  under  way,  and  in  company 
with  the  Unadilla,  went  up  to  Whampoa.  There  we  re- 
mained six  days  while  the  Commodore  and  several  of  the 
officers  and  crew  paid  a visit  to  Canton  in  the  Unadilla,  and 
during  which  time  my  visit  and  adventure  occurred.  Mean- 
while the  crew  had  almost  semi-daily  exercise  with  the  sails, 
battery,  or  small-arms  — fully  as  much  as  if  we  were  just  in 
commission.  It  does  seem  as  if  the  officers  considered  doubly 
'precious  the  short  time  that  remains  to  them  to  hold  authority, 
and  were  more  than  ever  loth  to  lose  any  opportunity  for  dis- 
playing their  powers.  Day  after  day  we  exercised  for  hours 
at  a time,  with  no  profit  to  us  and  with  no  apparent  object  or 
result  save  the  gratification  of  this  official  longing  for  the  ex- 
ercise of  authority. 

Among  the  purchases  that  I made  at  Canton  were  two  or 
three  Chinese  books.  To  a “Western”  these  are  quite  a 
novelty  in  more  respects  than  one.  Before  attempting  a 
description  I will  say  a few  words  about  printing.  While 
this  art  was  known  to  the  civilized  world  in  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury, it  was  known  to  the  Chinese  more  than  nine  hundred  years 
ago  f but,  on  the  other  hand,  while  Europeans  have  made  rapid 
advances  since  the  discovery  of  the  art,  the  Chinese  seem  to 
have  stopped  at  the  invention ; for  as  yet  they  have  no  mov- 
able type.  All  their  printing  is  done  by  cutting  the  charac- 
ters for  each  work,  page  by  page,  by  hand,  on  blocks  of 
wood,  and  the  impressions  are  taken  without  aid  from  ma- 
chinery. It  is  quite  interesting  and  not  a little  amusing  to 
see  them  print  and  manufacture  books.  First  the  engravers 
mark  out  the  page  upon  blocks  of  wood,  and  then  by  means 
of  their  tools  cut  away  the  superfluous  wood  from  the  char- 
acters. A good  engraver  will  get  through  with  about  one 
hundred  characters  in  a day,  for  which  he  receives  ten  or 
twelve  cents. 

The  block  is  now  ready  for  the  printer,  who  places  it  upon 
a table  or  stand,  with  a pot  of  ink  and  a brush  upon 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


403 


one  side,  a pile  of  blank  paper  on  the  other  side,  and  a 
rubber  in  front.  After  inking  the  block,  he  takes  a sheet 
of  the  paper,  places  it  smoothly  upon  the  block,  passes  the 
rubber  over  it  once  or  twice,  and  the  impression  is  pro- 
duced, the  sheet  removed,  and  another  placed  upon  the  block. 
In  this  manner  a workman  will  throw  off  from  three  to  four 
thousand  impressions  in  a day.  The  whole  apparatus  of  a 
printer  are  his  gravers,  blocks,  and  brushes,  and  with  these  he 
may  travel  from  place  to  place,  purchasing  ink  and  paper 
whenever  it  is  required.  The  paper  is  cheap,  there  being 
but  one  cent’s  worth  in  a book  of  eighty  pages  that  I pur- 
chased, and  the  whole  cost  being  but  three  cents.  How- 
ever, the  paper  is  so  thin  that  it  is  printed  only  on  one  side. 
Their  books  are  -wonderfully  cheap,  as  may  be  seen  from  the 
price  of  the  one  that  I have  mentioned  ; and  one  of  their  most 
popular  works,  containing  fifteen  hundred  leaves,  may  be  pur- 
chased for  half  a dollar.  This  is  accounted  for  in  part  from 
the  fact  that  very  few  new  works  are  published,  and  there  is 
not  much  variety.  But  reading  is  within  the  reach  of  all ; 
and  it  is  maintained  by  good  authorities  that  there  are  more 
books  in  China  and  more  people  to  read  them  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world.  Eighty  leaves  constitute  a vol- 
ume, which  always  has  thin  paper  covers,  and  has  the  num- 
ber of  page  and  title  on  the  side  instead  of  the  top  of  the 
page.  Their  most  noted  works  are  those  of  Confucius  and 
his  disciples  — the  “ five  classics  and  four  books.”  These  are 
all  about  the  size  of  the  New  Testament ; but  if  every  book 
of  this  kind  was  destroyed,  there  are  more  than  one  million 
people  in  China  who  could  repeat  it  word  for  word!  They 
have  several  other  works,  one  of  which  I have  seen  trans- 
lated into  English,  and  it  is  certainly  a very  readable  book. 

They  are  enabled  to  labor  for  very  low  wages  on  account 
of  the  small  amount  that  is  required  to  procure  the  neces- 
saries of  life.  The  diet  of  the  common  people  is  generally  a 
little  rice,  salted  fish,  or  vegetables  and  tea.  As  such,  a 


404 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


laboring  man  can,  in  many  parts  of  the  empire,  maintain  life 
on  from-  one  to  two  cents  per  day.  This  diet  is  sometimes 
varied  by  a little  pulse  or  millet,  or  occasionally  a few  ounces 
of  pork  is  stewed  in  with  the  vegetables.  The  common  food 
of  the  poor  people  in  some  localities  is  sweet-potatoes  or  yams, 
rice,  and  the  universal  bowl  of  tea.  Occasionally  a pork  meal 
may  be  had,  and  on  great  occasions  a little  poultry.  I have 
mentioned  in  a previous  letter  the  horror  which  they  have  to 
the  use  of  beef.  Instead  of  beef  and  mutton  they  have  re- 
source to  the  flesh  of  dogs  and  cats,  whose  flesh  is  equal  in- 
price to  that  of  swine ; or  in  default  of  this  to  the  most  dis- 
gusting vermin. 

The  evening  after  we  returned  to  Hong  Kong  from  Wham- 
poa I was  invited  to  a tea-party  at  the  house  of  a noted 
Hong  Kong  Chinese  tea  merchant.  Shanghai  and  Foochow 
are  the  most  noted  ports  in  China  for  shipping  tea,  but  still 
there  are  some  large  tea  merchants  at  Hong  Kong  and  other 
places  along  the  coast.  Our  host  told  us  that  there  were 
more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  millions  pounds  of  tea 
exported  from  China  in  a single  year,  and  that  full  twenty 
times  as  much  was  used  by  the  Chinese  themselves. 

The  guests  numbered  twelve  in  all,  half  of  which  were 
English  gentlemen.  One  that  is  unacquainted  can  hardly 
form  any  idea  of  the  elaborateness  of  a Chinese  tea  drinking. 
All  of  the  Chinese  gentlemen  present,  as  well  as  the  host, 
were  arrayed  in  their  best  apparel,  and  we  were  met  by  the 
latter  with  the  blandest  smiles  and  the  most  cordial  and  cour- 
teous greetings.  We  were  almost  immediately  led  to  the 
dining-room  where  refreshments  had  been  prepared  for  us, 
consisting  of  some  delicate  cakes,  fruits,  hot  wine  and  tea. 
For  the  latter  a cup  for  each  one  was  placed  on  the  table  with 
a dish  of  tea  in  the  centre.  This  was  passed  to  each  one, 
and  hot  water  poured  by  servants,  so  that  each  one  enjoyed 
the  privilege  of  making  his  own  tea.  In  the  numerous  bow- 
ings that  precede  the  drinking  one  has  to  be  very  careful  lest 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


405 


he  may  violate  a rule  of  decorum  and  spill  his  tea ; and  on 
this  account  the  cups  are  but  half  filled.  The  Chinese  drink 
the  beverage  in  short,  quick  sips,  taking  care  to  empty  the 
cups  and  set  them  down  at  the  same  time.  The  tea  is  al- 
ways taken  very  warm,  and  as  the  weather  was  quite  warm 
upon  this  particular  evening,  the  perspiration  started  very 
freely.  It  is  a breach  of  etiquette  to  notice  this ; but  in 
order  that  no  one  may  be  unnecessarily  uncomfortable,  the 
host  immediately  says,  “ I invite  you  to  take  your  fans.”  As 
we  were  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  without  any,  the  others  de- 
sisted from  the  use  of  theirs  out  of  compliment  to  us.  After 
the  refreshments  we  were  all  treated  to  the  Chinese  luxury 
of  having  our  faces  bathed  with  napkins,  dipped  in  hot  water. 
After  this  ceremony  upward  of  half  an  hour  was  passed  in 
conversation,  the  principal  feature  in  which  were  the  com- 
pliments passed.  In  these  each  one  app^red  to  be  zealous 
in  debasing  the  first  person  and  elevating  the  second,  all  of 
which  were  made  known  to  us  by  an  interpreter.  Finally 
the  highest  in  rank  among  the  guests  arose  and  said,  “We 
have  been  troublesome  to  you  a very  long  time,”  and  im- 
mediately took  leave  of  us.  His  example  was  followed  by 
all,  in  the  order  of  their  rank. 

It  was  all  enjoyed  by  me  only  as  an  interesting  feature  of  Chi- 
nese life,  and  in  itself  was  almost  torture  from  beginning  to  end. 
It  seemed  strange  enough  with  our  “ Western  ideas”  of  tea- 
drinkings,  thus  to  attend  one  ungraced  by  the  presence  of 
ladies.  With  its  almost  solemn  formalities,  the  poetic  effu- 
sions so  aptly  descriptive  of  ours,  could  in  no  sense  be  termed 
appropriate  in  China ; — 

“ How  they  chitter,  chatter, 

O’er  a eup  o’  scalding  water, 

O’er  this  one’s  death  or  that  one's  marriage  ; 

Of  A’s  new  dress,  or  B’s  new  carriage.” 

This  is  probably  the  last  letter  I shall  send  you  from  China  ; 
but  before  I bid  China  “ good-bye,”  I must  say  something  re- 


406 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


garding  its  history,  size,  population,  etc.  However,  as  my 
letter  is  already  quite  lengthy,  I shall  be  as  concise  as  pos- 
sible. 

In  commencing  with  the  early  history  of  China,  it  might 
be  well  to  correct  the  error  into  which  many  have  fallen  in 
regard  to  the  faulty  and  extravagant  chronology  of  the  Chi- 
nese. Many  suppose  that  they  maintain  such  antiquity  as  to 
be  at  variance  with  the  Bible  and  such  records  of  the  foun- 
dation and  duration  of  the  human  race  as  we  have  been  wont 
to  consider  as  authentic ; so  that  if  we  believe  the  one  the  other 
must  be  disbelieved.  This  is  explained  by  the  fact  that  they 
have  a mythological  as  well  as  a chronological  period,  the 
former  of  which  relates  to  their  gods,  extends  through  myr- 
iads of  ages,  and  even  by  themselves  is  considered  fabulous. 
In  this  they  speak  of  their  celestial  emperor,  who  reigned 
forty-five  thousand  years ; of  their  terrestrial  emperor,  who 
reigned  eighteen  thousand  years,  followed  by  their  human 
emperor,  who  reigned  as  long;  without  condescending  to  en- 
lighten us  as  to  the  names,  characters,  events  or  circumstances 
of  these  wonderful  individuals,  or  their  still  more  extraordi- 
nary reigns ; nay,  without  so  much  as  telling  us  whether 
their  dominions  were  established  in  heaven  or  earth,  or 
whether  they  referred  exclusively  to  China  or  included  other 
nations.  In  short,  the  vague  account  they  furnish  us  of 
these  fancied  emperors  shows  that  they  were  merely  the 
figment  of  the  imagination,  introduced  to  supply  a deficiency 
and  to  amuse  the  credulous. 

After  these,  come  portions  of  history  which  are  based  upon 
indistinct  traditions  of  the  creation  and  the  flood.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  immediately  after  the  dispersion  of  the  great  human 
family,  the  founders  of  the  Chinese  race  wandered  off  to  the 
far  East  and  settled  down  somewhere  on  the  banks  of  the 
Yellow  River.  Their  most  noted  historian,  Foo-choo  tsze, 
commences  at  about  this  period,  entirely  passing  over  the 
mythological  period  as  not  worthy  of  note.  This  historian 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


407 


places  the  foundation  of  the  empire  at  one  hundred  and  four 
years  after  the  flood,  when  Yu  began  to  reign,  and  is  the  first 
real  character  made  mention  of.  During  his  reign  the  lands 
were  drained,  and  wine  discovered.  When  Yu  tasted  the 
wine  he  is  said  to  have  rejected  it,  and  remarked,  “ This  wine 
is  sweet,  but  at  some  future  time  it  will  occasion  the  ruin  of 
the  country.” 

Since  that  period  China  has  been  shaken  by  many  revolu- 
tions, subjected  to  foreign  invasion  and  internal  commotions, 
dynasties  have  changed,  and  even  now  China  is  subjected  to 
the  Tartar  yoke;  yet  China  is  China  still.  Her  language 
and  customs  remain  unaltered  through  all.  Those  who  are 
accustomed  to  attach  veneration  to  antiquity  cannot  fail  to  do 
so  when  they  consider  the  patriarchal  character  of  the  Chi- 
nese, as  it  existed  not  centuries  but  milleniums  ago ; and  the 
modern  kingdoms  of  Europe  are  but  as  yesterday  in  com- 
parison. 

Upon  tracing  Chinese  history  one  finds  four  distinct  dynas- 
ties previous  to  the  Christian  era.  The  first  I have  already 
spoken  of,  and  in  the  second  nothing  worthy  of  special  note 
occurred  more  than  the  continuance  of  the  work  begun  by 
Yu  — the  founder  of  the  empire.  In  the  third  dynasty  their 
great  philosopher,  Confucius,  was  born.  He  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  the  Chinese  literature,  and  the  history  of  his  own 
time  is  as  much  depended  upon  as  the  recitals  of  Greek  and 
Roman  historians.  The  fourth  dynasty  commenced  about 
250  B.  C.,  and  was  called  Tsin,  from  which  the  modern 
name  of  China  is  derived.  The  ruler  of  Tsin  conceived  the 
insane  idea  of  establishing  a dynasty  which  should  extend 
from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  time.  To  accomplish  this, 
he  collected  and  burned  all  the  records  of  previous  ages  that 
he  could  obtain  possession  of,  and  buried  alive  all  the  wise 
men  of  the  country,  thinking  thus  to  obliterate  all  remem- 
brance of  antiquity,  or  but  that  he  was  the  first  universal  em- 
peror of  China.  Fortunately,  however,  his  pians  were  frus- 


408 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


trated  by  the  discovery  of  the  works  of  Confucius  in  the 
wainscot  of  an  old  house. 

Doubtless  you  have  studied  geography  and  are  quite  fa- 
miliar with  the  location  of  every  prominent  country  in  the 
world ; so  as  you  refer  to  the  atlas  of  your  memory  with  your 
mind’s  eye,  you  will  see  China  bounded  on  the  south  and  east 
by  the  China  Sea  and  Pacific  Ocean  ; on  the  west,  by  Thibet 
and  the  Desert ; and  on  the  north,  by  the  Great  W all.  At 
the  first  settlement  of  the  Chinese  in  their  patriarchal  regions 
on  the  banks  of  the  Yellow  River,  the  lands  were  divided 
into  nine  shares,  the  eight  outer  allotments  of  which  were 
cultivated  by  eight  separate  husbandmen,  while  the  middle 
one  was  wrought  by  the  whole  for  the  service  of  the  state. 
As  the  population  increased  they  extended  their  boundaries, 
until  in  the  time  of  Tsin,  they  occupied  all  their  present 
limits  between  the  Great  Wall  and  the  Yangtse  Kiang  river 
— all  south  of  this  river  not  being  added  for  several  ages. 

Thus  far  China  had  extended  her  boundaries  by  conquer- 
ing ; but  all  subsequent  extension  was  by  being  conquered. 
The  Tartars,  after  gaining  possession  of  the  country,  instead 
of  altering  its  institutions  and  maxims,  conformed  themselves 
to  the  laws  and  customs  already  existing,  and  were  in  fact 
subdued  by  the  Chinese. 

In  addition  to  China  Proper,  which  with  its  eighteen  rich 
and  fertile  provinces  (each  of  them  equal  in  extent  and  popu- 
lation to  some  European  kingdoms,)  covers  an  area  of  one 
million  three  hundred  thousand  square  miles,  it  is  swelled  by 
the  annexation  of  Chinese  Tartary,  a thinly  peopled  but  out- 
stretched region  extending  from  the  Sea  of  Ochotsk,  on  the 
east,  to  Bukaria,  on  the  west,  and  from  the  Altai  and  Nen- 
shink  mountains,  on  the  north,  to  the  Great  Wall,  on  the 
south,  and  covering  an  area  of  over  three  million  square 
miles.  The  Chinese  empire  occupies  no  inconsiderable  space 
on  our  map,  and  fills  up  nearly  the  whole  of  their  own.  No 
wonder  then  that  they  should  consider  their  country  as  the 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


409 


“ Middle  Kingdom,”  and  speak  of  their  empire  and  the  world 
as  synonymous  terms. 

Probably  nothing  relative  to  China  has  been  the  subject 
of  more  controversy  or  is  more  interesting  to  the  politician 
than  the  question  of  its  population.  It  is  stated  that  the 
country,  already  over-populated,  is  doubling  its  population 
every  twenty-five  years,  and  that  in  time  she  will  press  her 
enterprising,  though  not  warlike,  teeming  myriads  upon 
neighboring  countries.  Now  let  us  examine  this  question 
closely  and  see  what  conclusion  we  may  arrive  at.  The 
latest  census  gives  China  Proper  (by  far  the  most  thickly 
peopled  portion  of  the  empire)  a population  of  three  hundred 
and  sixty-six  millions  to  her  area  of  one  million  three  hun- 
dred thousand  square  miles,  an  estimate  which  no  one  who 
has  paid  any  attention  to  the  subject  will  deny.  But  allow- 
ing that  there  are  so  many  people  in  China,  it  leaves  over 
two  and  one-fifth  acres  for  the  support  of  each  individual 
(though  competent  judges  maintain  that  one  acre  will  sup- 
port five  persons ;)  so  for  a long  time  there  is  no  danger  of 
surrounding  nations  apprehending  that  their  welfare  or  their 
peace  will  be  disturbed  by  the  influx  of  a mass  of  shrewd  and 
hungry  invaders  driven  out  from  their  own  country  for  want 
of  subsistence.  In  comparing  China  with  other  countries,  we 
find  that  it  is  not  more  thickly  peopled  than  some  other 
regions,  and  even  less  than  some ; for  while  Belgium  has 
nearly  three  hundred  and  fifty  persons  to  every  square  mile 
China  Proper  has  less  than  three  hundred,  and  the  whole 
empire  less  than  one  hundred. 

Still  China  has  an  immense  population,  and  every  means 
has  to  be  employed  to  economize  the  soil.  This  is  very  fer- 
tile, and  probably  there  is  no  country  in  the  world  as  exten- 
sively cultivated  as  China,  or  to  as  good  advantage.  From 
a late  estimate  it  appears  that  more  than  three-fourths  of  the 
surface  is  owned  and  tilled  by  man,  and  the  greater  portion 
of  this  is  laid  out  in  arable  land.  The  principal  animal  food 


410 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


is  pork,  which  is  home-fed,  and  on  this  account  there  are  no 
grazing  farms,  no  meadows,  and  but  once  in  all  my  rambles 
about  China  have  I seen  cattle  grazing  in  a pasture ; and  al- 
most every  acre  is  turned  up  by  the  spade  or  plough  to  afford 
sustenance  for  its  teeming  inhabitants.  With  the  Chinese 
the  art  of  agriculture  is  carried  to  a very  high  state  of  per- 
fection, as  may  be  seen  by  the  rotation  of  crops,  the  cultiva- 
tion of  products  best  adapted  to  the  seasons  and  soil,  and  the 
use  of  fertilizers.  The  skill  of  the  husbandman  may  be  seen 
in  the  irrigation  of  his  rice  fields,  and  they  may  be  considered 
adepts  in  the  system  of  terrace  cultivation. 

The  past  week  has  been  spent  by  the  crew  in  taking  in 
coal  and  sea-stores  and  in  making  all  the  necessary  prepara- 
tions for  the  “Homeward  Bound  Passage;”  and  this,  Dame 
Rumor  says,  will  begin  to-morrow.  This  afternoon  the  citi- 
zens of  Hong  Kong  presented  us  a Commodore’s  pennant, 
eighteen  feet  long,  and  a Captain’s  pennant,  two  hundred  and 
twelve  feet  long.  This  evening  the  crew  are  very  enthusi- 
astic and  very  happy  over  the  prospect  of  so  soon  bidding 
these  shores  “ good-bye.”  Every  face  wears  a smile,  and 
every  thought  and  action  seems  to  centre  on  the  conviction 
that 


“ We  are  homeward-bound ! ” 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


411 


LETTER  XLI. 

U.  S.  Flagship  Hartford,  Singapore,  East  Indies, 

April  26,  1868. 

My  Dear  R. : 

With  the  deepest  pleasure  I resume  my  pen  to  write  you 
my  Homeward-bound  letter  No.  2,  this  time  feeling  sure  that 
“We  are  Homeward  Bound”  in  good  earnest.  The  month, 
nearly,  that  we  have  been  delayed  here  at  Singapore  while 
awaiting  the  arrival  of  our  relief,  the  Piscataqua,  has  been 
anxiously  and  impatiently  passed,  and  all  feel  rejoiced  that 
our  waiting  is  now  at  an  end. 

Saturday,  March  21st,  was  as  beautiful  and  bright  a day 
as  could  be  desired  on  which  to  start  for  home;  and  those 
that  interpret  or  put  confidence  in  signs  and  omens,  augur 
from  this  that  our  passage  will  be  a pleasant  and  prosperous 
one.  At  8 A.  M.  we  “broke  the  stops”  of  the  Homeward 
Bound  Pennants,  unmoored  ship,  and  got  up  our  anchor  be- 
fore dinner.  During  the  entire  forenoon  the  ship  was  fairly 
thronged  with  people  making  their  farewell  visit  to  the 
Hartford.  At  noon  all  hands  shifted  into  white  clothes.  Old 
Sam  completely  unloaded  his  boat  in  presents  to  all ; and 
after  bidding  every  one  in  the  ship  “ good-bye,”  he  was 
“ piped  over  the  side,”  ten  petty  officers  taking  the  place  of 
“ side  boys.”  At  2 P.  M.  the  •“  word  was  passed  ” for  all 
visitors  to  leave  the  ship,  and  a few  minutes  later  we 
heard  the  long  looked  for  and  anxiously  awaited  word,  “ All 
hands  up  anchor  for  home!”  It  would  have  done  your  heart 
good  could  you  but  have  stepped  on  board  the  old  Hartford 
at  that  moment  and  seen  the  excitement  that  prevailed  there 
The  crew  really  seemed  like  so  many  wild  men  in  their 


412 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


actions  th^in  anything  else,  and  the  way  the  anchor  came  up, 
to  the  time  of  “ Homeward  Bound,”  beat  anything  I ever 
saw,  while  cheer  after  cheer  rent  the  air.  In  less  than  ten 
minutes  we  were  under  way,  everybody  was  sent  up  into  the 
rigging,  and  a salute  fired.  This  was  answered  by  the  bat- 
tery on  shore,  H.  B.  M.’s  Rodney  and  the  U.  S.  S.  Ashuelot. 
As  we  slowly  steamed  down  the  harbor,  cheers  were  given 
for  the  port  and  those  given  us  by  the  different  vessels.  And 
what  cheers  they  were,  too!  Four  hundred  were  cheering 
with  a will — such  cheers  as  make  one’s  pulse  beat  faster, 
and  crowd  a little  lifetime  into  a minute ! As  we  passed  the 
different  flag-ships,  their  bands  struck  up  “ Hail  Columbia,” 
and  we  gave  them  in  return  a “ tiger.”  During  the  cheering 
the  air  was  darkened  with  the  caps  and  old  shoes  thrown 
overboard,  — for  luck  I suppose, — and  if  there  is  any  virtue 
in  so  doing,  we  ought  to  have  a remarkably  pleasant  and 
prosperous  passage.  Then  from  each  royal  mast  truck  a 
game  cock  was  thrown,  crowing  as  it  went,  and  one  of  them 
alighted  on  board  the  Rodney.  Old  Sam,  the  bum  boatman, 
Atee,  the  compradore,  and  several  other  Chinamen  that  we 
have  extensively  employed  since  we  have  been  on  the  sta- 
tion, kept  up  from  their  boats  a continual  racket  of  fireworks 
and  crackers  and  burning  of  joss  sticks  and  papers,  so  long 
as  we  were  within  sight  or  hearing.  On  the  whole  it  was  a 
very  exciting  time  and  by  all  will  long  be  remembered  with 
pleasure.  The  Aroostook  and  Unadilla  accompanied  us  until 
we  were  at  the  Ly-mun  Pass,  and  then  started  for  the  north- 
ward, giving  and  receiving  three  hearty  cheers  before  part- 
ing company.  The  last  seen  of  them,  they  were  racing,  the 
Unadilla  ahead. 

We  steered  easterly  all  that  night  and  the  next  morning 
altered  our  course  to  the  southward,  which  course  we  kept 
with  some  slight  variations  until  we  reached  Singapore, 
March  31st.  This  passage  was  an  exceedingly  pleasant  one ; 
for  aside  from  the  good  spirits  of  all,  the  wind,  though  light, 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


413 


was  favorable,  the  sea  smooth  as  glass,  and  the  ship  most  of 
the  time  as  steady  as  a house.  We  sighted  points  of  land 
almost  daily,  among  which  were  the  islands  of  Banca,  Pen- 
nang,  Timour,  and  Ara.  Sunday,  March  27th,  we  passed  a 
small  island  in  80°  N.  lat.,  situated  about  thirty  miles  from 
the  main  land,  and  called  Pulo  Zapato,  from  the  native  Pulo, 
signifying  “ island,”  and  the  Spanish  Zapato,  signifying 
“ shoe,”  from  the  fancied  resemblance  of  the  island  to  a shoe 
whose  toe  points  towards  the  north.  Viewed  from  the  fore- 
castle a few  hours  after  passing  it,  when  the  heel  only  could 
be  seen,  it  bore  a striking  resemblance  to  some  enormous 
castle  rising  out  of  the  sea.  Tne  next  evening  we  sighted  the 
light-house  at  the  entrance  of  Singapore  Straits,  thirty  miles 
distant  from  the  city,  and  “ lay  to  ” over  night.  The  next 
morning  after  taking  on  board  a Malay  pilot,  we  started  up 
the  straits,  which  are  dotted  on  either  hand  with  large  and 
small  islands,  exceedingly  picturesque  in  appearance  and  in 
a high  state  of  cultivation.  About  noon  that  day  we  dropped 
anchor  about  two  miles  out  from  the  town. 

The  city  of  Singapore  is  situated  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  island  of  the  same  name,  which  lies  a short  distance  off 
from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Malay  Peninsula.  Any 
one  who  will  look  at  its  geographical  position  and  its  relations 
to  the  commerce  between  the  East  and  West,  passing  through 
the  Straits  of  Sunda  and  Malacca,  will  not  greatly  wonder 
how  a thriving  city  of  eighty  thousand  inhabitants  has  been 
planted  in  the  jungle  in  so  short  a time.  Although  the 
papers  record  that  in  the  surrounding  thickets  of  Singapore 
island  the  tigers  destroy  an  average  of  one  person  daily,  we 
found  its  harby  floating  the  models  of  all  nations,  from  great, 
lumbering,  red-painted,  goggle  eyed  Chinese  junks,  to  the 
beautiful  clipper  of  the  Stales ; and  among  the  flags  of  Eu- 
rope and  America  we  saw  the  white  elephant  banner  of  Siam 
and  the  gaudy-hued  flags  of  other  eastern  nations. 

We  had  barely  anchored  when  the  ship’s  sides  were  fairly 


414 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


thronged  with  boats,  bringing  compradores,  washermen,  ped- 
dlers, etc.  There  were  a few  Chinese  sampans , but  a ma- 
jority of  the  boats  were  narrow,  sharp,  flat-bottomed  things, 
roofed  over  the  middle  with  matting,  and  rowed  by  three  or 
four  natives.  The  natives  are  for  the  most  part  Mahometans, 
with  a few  Malays  and  Chinese. 

The  Mahometans,  or  Mussulmen,  have  the  entire  head 
shaved  and  covered  with  close-fitting,  many-colored  straw  or 
rush  plaited  caps,  or  crimson  or  white  turbans.  White  or  red 
striped  petticoats  or  sarongs  fall  from  the  waists  of  some,  and 
a few  wear  bright  colored  jackets,  but  many  are  encumbered 
with  no  more  clothing  than  is  needed  to  satisfy  the  demands 
of  decency.  These  are  the  only  faces  new  to  us  met  at  Singa- 
pore. Our  compradore  we  find  to  be  a more  important  person- 
age than  those  we  have  been  accustomed  to  having.  He  is  an 
uncommonly  fine  looking,  intelligent,  Mahometan,  and  named 
Mahomet.  All  of  his  boatmen,  with  the  exception  of  a single 
Chinaman,  are  also  Mahometans.  The  Chinaman  is  em- 
ployed to  handle  swine’s  flesh  or  anything  appertaining  to  it, 
the  Mahometans  having  a religious  horror  of  so  doing.  We 
were  not  a little  amused  a tew  days  ago  at  a trick  played 
upon  one  of  the  Mahometan  boatmen  by  one  of  our  crew. 
He  placed  a piece  of  pork  in  a jar  among  some  other  arti- 
cles, and  then  when  a boatman  was  bringing  it  over  the 
gangway,  showed  the  pork  to  him.  With  a look  and  cry  of 
horror  and  disgust,  the  jar  was  dashed  down  and  broken 
into  a hundred  pieces,  while  all  its  contents  rolled  into  the 
water. 

When  I was  upon  the  forecastle  a few  days  ago,  convers- 
ing with  an  acquaintance  who  has  been  in  business  at  Singa- 
pore for  a great  many  years,  among  other  things  I spoke  of 
the  islands  in  sight  from  our  anchorage.  He  told  me  that 
the  Alabama  used  to  lay  behind  them  and  get  her  mails,  pro- 
visions, coals,  and  whatever  she  wished,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  U.  S.  S.  Iroquois  would  be  lying  at  anchor  in  the  harbor. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


415 


If  by  chance  the  Iroquois  should  learn  of  her  whereabouts  and 
start  out  in  pursuit,  by  the  time  she  could  get  around  there, 
the  Alabama  would  be  behind  some  other  island  far  away. 
Ofttimes  a false  telegram  would  come  to  the  Iroquois,  stating 
that  the  Alabama  had  been  seen  committing  depradations  off 
Hong  Kong,  Calcutta,  or  some  other  distant  place,  when  of 
course  she  would  immediately  start  off  in  pun-uit.  All  this 
time  the  Alabama  would  be  lying  concealed  behind  one  of 
the  islands,  and  as  soon  as  the  Iroquois  was  gone,  she  would 
slip  in,  take  in  a load  of  coal,  and  be  off  before  her  enemy  re- 
turned. All  this  could  be  easily  carried  on,  as  nearly  all  the 
foreigners  resident  at  Singapore  are  English,  and  all  were 
rebel  sympathizers. 

We  have  been  in  few  places  where  a ride  or  ramble  on 
shore  would  develop  more  of  interest  and  pleasure  than  Singa- 
pore affords.  I have  been  on  shore  almost  daily,  and 
have  alwrays  enjoyed  myself  very  much.  The  usual  landing 
is  at  a stone  pier  near  the  mouth  of  a small  stream  w’hich 
separates  the  foreign  quarter,  with  its  stylish  residences,  fine 
gardens,  charming  drives,  and  pleasant  promenades,  from  the 
long,  narrow,  close-crow7ded,  opium-smoking,  toddy  and  bang- 
drinking streets  of  the  pounding,  blowing,  sewing,  stitching 
filing,  laboring  Chinamen.  The  river  is  crossed  at  several 
points  by  bridges,  and  the  streets  which  run  along  its  banks 
are  lumbered  up  with  the  products  of  the  East,  and  with  buf- 
falo carts  and  laborers  carrying  the  various  articles  to  the 
neighboring  shops  and  store-houses.  Rising  above  all,  to  the 
height  of  five  hundred  feet,  is  the  foliage-covered  ‘‘govern- 
ment hill”  with  the  British  ensign  flying  before  the  buildings 
which  crown  its  summit.  From  this  hill  is  to  be  had  a 
charming  view  of  the  town,  harbor,  and  nutmeg  groves  of 
the  surrounding  country. 

As  you  go  up  from  the  landing,  you  see  ranged  along  in 
front  of  you  several  sagacious  looking  little  ponies,  harnessed 
to  the  yoJki-garis  or  “ palanquin-carriages,”  low,  square,  close 


416 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


vehicles,  with  a front  and  back  seat,  and  with  an  attendant 
driver  and  interpreter.  Up  in  front  is  a seat  for  the  driver 
and  other  attendant.  No  one  thinks  of  walking  through  the 
dusty  streets  of  Singapore,  under  the  rays  of  the  hot,  burning 
sun,  when  one  of  these  establishments  can  be  had  for  a long 
drive  for  a shilling.  Nothing  can  be  more  pleasant  and  in- 
teresting than  to  take  one  of  these  carriages  and  drive  out 
among  the  palatial  residences  situate  in  beautiful  and  exten- 
sive gardens  in  the  suburbs,  or  among  the  nutmeg  groves  of 
the  surrounding  country.  If  the  ride  is  taken  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  day  one  will  meet  the  wealth,  beauty,  and  fashion 
of  Singapore  in  elegant  turnouts,  enjoying  a drive  in  the  cool 
of  the  day. 

Quite  an  excitement  was  recently  occasioned  by  a lorcha 
which  was  endeavoring  to  leave  the  harbor.  When  about  a 
mile  distant,  the  English  Corvette  Persius  fired  a shot  to 
bring  her  to,  but  without  paying  any  attention  to  it,  the 
lorcha  kept  on.  Seeing  this,  the  Persius  commenced  firing 
at  her  in  good  earnest,  and  also  sent  an  armed  boat  in  pur- 
suit. As  the  wind  was  blowing  up  the  bay,  and  the  lorcha 
compelled  to  beat  her  way  out,  we  all  thought  she  would  be 
easily  captured.  But  she  would  have  made  her  escape,  de- 
fying the  shots  of  the  Persius  and  the  armed  boat,  had  she 
not  been  “brought  to”  by  the  powder  hulk  down  the  harhor. 
Dame  Rumor  first  informed  us  that  it  was  a pirate  endeavor- 
ing to  make  his  escape,  and  after  that,  a smuggler ; but  the 
last  edition  with  the  correct  statement  showed  that  it  was 
neither  pirate  nor  smuggler.  It  seems  that  a Chinese  servant 
of  the  captain  of  the  Persius,  having  stolen  a large  sum  of 
money,  a revolver,  and  several  other  valuable  articles  from 
him,  and  having  got  possession  of  the  lorcha  by  a forged 
order,  hired  a Malay  crew,  and  boldly  set  sail  for  China.  H 
undertaking  proved  a failure ; but  he  displayed  more  pluck 
and  daring  than  is  usually  credited  to  the  Chinese.  He  is 
now  confined  on  board  the  Persius  awaiting  a trial. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


417 


Although  we  have  had  but  little  drill  since  we  have  been 
lying  here,  we  have  had  several  days  of  “ humbugging  ” and 
“ petticoat  ruling  ” with  a vengeance.  Our  present  captain 
was  formerly  executive  officer  of  the  Shenandoah,  and  suc- 
ceeded Captain  Shufeldt  in  command  of  the  Hartford.  When 
on  his  way  out,  he  became  acquainted  with,  and  married  the 
daughter  of  Mr.  Prescott,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Ceylon.  While  we 
were  in  China  she  resided  at  Hong  Kong,  but  when  we  started 
for  home  the  Captain  obtained  permission  for  her  to  take  pas- 
sage to  the  States  in  the  Hartford.  Although  much  inconve- 
nience was  occasioned  by  her  presence,  and  some  new  rules 
were  laid  down,  no  murmurs  were  heard  until  the  “ humbug- 
ging ” commenced  in  this  port. 

When  we  first  came  in,  Mrs.  B.  went  ashore  to  board 
during  our  stay.  A few  days  afterwards  she  came  on  board 
accompanied  by  a lady  friend,  and  nothing  would  do  but  that 
“ George  ” must  exercise  the  crew  at  general  quarters  for 
their  amusement.  He,  a perfect  slave  to  her  every  wish, 
thought  it  nothing  if  four  hundred  men  were  made  to  run 
about,  haul,  and  over-exert  themselves  in  every  way  for  two 
or  three  hours,  in  the  hot,  burning  sun,  so  long  as  she  was 
pleased ; and  then  the  four  hundred  victims,  with  no  word  of 
thanks  or  commendation,  only  received  for  their  exertions  a 
subsequent  damning  and  had  their  privileges  taken  away  for 
not  doing  better!  But  to  return;  the  men  were  given  but 
half  an  hour  for  breakfast  and  smoking,  and  then  set  to  work 
making  preparations  for  the  grand  performance.  The  exer- 
cise of  four  hundred  men  for  the  gratification  of  an  idle, 
thoughtless  wish  was  bad  enough;  but  we  were  further  kept 
for  over  an  hour  with  everything  in  readiness,  and  all  “stand- 
ing by,”  prepared  to  jump  at  the  first  tap  of  the  drum,  wait- 
ing for  the  spirit  to  move  our  visitors,  and  the  murmurs 
began  to  grow  loud  and  deep.  At  last  the  chairs  were  taken 
from  the  cabin  to  the  poop,  and  the  visitors  escorted  there. 
The  “ quick  beat,”  “cast  loose  and  provide,”  then  “All  ready 
19 


418 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


for  Action,”  is  reported  to  them,  and  the  performance  com- 
menced. All  that  was  ever  done  at  general  quarters  before, 
and  some  things  never  previously  heard  of,  were  gone  through 
with,  and  the  particularly  interesting  movements  several  times 
repeated  before  they  said  “ enough  ” and  the  “ retreat”  sound- 
ed. Then  came  batalion  drill  for  half  an  hour  or  more; 
and  it  was  dinner  time  when  they  thanked  “ George  ” for  his 
pleasant  entertainment  and  withdrew  to  the  cabin.  Dinner 
time,  but  no  dinner  — and  it  was  late  when  we  did  get  it, 
and  then  but  half  cooked ! 

But  the  end  was  not  yet.  After  dinner  there  was  an 
accession  to  the  party  of  four  gentlemen  who  wished  to  be 
“ tickled,”  too.  So  we  “ manned  and  armed  all  the  boats  ’’ 
for  them,  and  kept  supper  waiting  for  more  than  an  hour’ 
until  they  could  find  it  convenient  to  look  at  the  berth  deck. 

Exhibitions  similar  to  those  I have  mentioned  have  been 
repeated  several  times  since  we  have  been  in  Singapore,  and 
the  crew  made  to  exercise  when  no  benefit  resulted,  but 
rather  detriment  was  done  to  the  service.  Aside  from  this 
these  m.any  repetitions  have  a tendency  to  lessen  if  not  en- 
tirely destroy  that  high  regard,  worship  almost,  which  is  so 
natural  for  a sailor  to  entertain  for  woman.  When  Mrs.  B. 
came  on  board  at  Hong  Kong,  all  were  prepared  to  like  her  in 
advance,  and  she  certainly  is  quite  pleasing  and  attractive  at 
first  sight;  but  more  intimate  acquaintance  has  weakened  and 
almost  entirely  destroyed  the  good  opinion  of  all.  Yet  I would 
not  attribute  to  her  more  than  the  sin  of  thoughtlessness,  for 
I cannot  believe  but  that,  had  she  fully  understood  and  real- 
ized all,  she  would  have  sought  amusement  from  some  other 
source.  The  Captain  knew  better,  and  occupying  his  high 
position,  he  should  never  have  suffered  this  thing  to  have 
been  done.  Nor  would  it  have  required,  in  my  opinion, 
more  than  an  honest  statement  of  the  true  facts  to  have  had 
all  requests  for  such  displays  withdrawn.  IIow  many  more 
such  days  we  will  have  I can  only  conjecture,  yet  I can  but 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


419 


feel  thankful  that  the  cruise  is  fast  drawing  to  its  close,  and 
that  the  greater  portion  of  it  has  been  passed  under  different 
circumstances. 

The  cause  of  our  extended  stay  at  Singapore  was  the  non-  • 
arrival  of  our  relief,  the  Piscataqua.  Of  course  all  were  im- 
patient at  the  long  delay,  but  there  was  no  help  for  it — we 
were  obliged  to  wait.  So  many  times  had  we  been  deceived 
by  rumors  of  her  speedy  arrival,  that  when  an  American 
steamer  was  announced  from  the  signal-station  as  being  off 
the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  day  before  yesterday  morning,  no 
one  would  venture  to  say  that  it  was  our  long  looked  for  re- 
lief. But  just  after  we  had  assembled  at  quarters,  the  coming 
steamer  displayed  some  signals  which  were  soon  made  out 
to  be  the  Piscataqua’s  numbers.  Retreat  was  immediately 
sounded,  the  guns  run  out  and  loaded  for  a salute,  and  for  a 
time  the  wildest  excitement  prevailed,  officers  and  crew  alike 
cheering,  shouting,  shaking  hands,  and  on  the  whole  acting 
like  so  many  happy  school  boys. 

When  the  Piscataqua  was  about  two  miles  distant  from  us, 
we  fired  a salute  of  thirteen  guns  for  Admiral  Rowan,  which 
she  returned  with  eleven  guns  for  Commodore  Goldsboro. 
The  Persius  then  saluted  Admiral  Rowan  with  thirteen  guns, 
which  were  returned  gun  for  gun.  As  the  Piscataqua  came 
up  and  rounded  our  stern,  she  dipped  her  Admiral’s  pennant; 
cheers  were  given  and  returned,  her  band  struck  up  “ Home, 
Sweet  Home,”  and  then,  crossing  our  bow,  she  came  to 
anchor  just  outside  us.  The  barge  was  immediately  called 
away,  and  Commodore  Goldsboro  went  on  board  the  new- 
comer to  pay  his  respects  to  Admiral  Rowan,  and  turn  over 
the  command  of  the  Asiatic  Squadron  to  him.  The  Piscata- 
qua, therefore,  and  not  the  Hartford,  is  now  the  “ Flag  Ship 
of  the  Asiatic  Squadron.”  We  shall  probably  remain  here 
two  or  three  days  longer  until  the  several  departments  have 
turned  over  their  respective  commands  ; and  next  Thursday, 
April  23d,  is  the  day  fixed  upon  when,  in  good  earnest,  we 
are  to  start  upon  our  “ Homeward  Bound  Passage.” 


420 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


Although  there  has  been  much  tending  to  make  our  month’s 
stay  at  Singapore  a long  and  unpleasant  one,  there  has  also 
been  much  to  make  the  stay  pleasant,  — certainly  much  more 
so  than  we  at  first  anticipated.  There  has  been  a great  amount 
of  excitement,  and  much  to  be  seen  that  was  novel  and  inter- 
esting; and  last,  but  far  from  being  least,  we  have  all  had  an 
abundance  of  the  most  delicious  fruits  that  the  world  pro- 
duces. Fruits  of  almost  every  kind  common  to  a tropical 
clime  can  be  had  in  any  quantity  by  simply  going  on  shore 
after  them  ; but  all  prefer  to  buy  them  of  the  boatmen  who 
bring  them  alongside  at  prices  so  low  that  it  does  not  seem 
as  if  they  could  make  fair  day’s  wages.  It  is  low  to  say  that 
one  thousand  pineapples  have  been  consumed  by  the  crew 
every  day  during  our  stay  here,  besides  an  immense  number 
of  oranges*,  cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  and  other  fruits. 

But  in  a few  days  we  leave  all  these,  and  soon  our  rela- 
tions with  the  Asiatic  Squadron  will  be  ended.  Many,  no 
doubt,  will  still  continue  to  wander  about  strange  and  for- 
eign shores,  but  still  there  are  some,  who  with  me,  remem- 
ber with  pride  that  we  are  citizens  of  a country  whose  grandest 
influences  are  found  at  home,  in  the  ways  of  peace  and 
humanity,  and  to  which  we  return  and  cling  with  strengthened 
affection. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


421 


LETTER  XL II. 

U.  S.  S.  Hartford,  Cape  Town,  South  Africa,  ) 

June  19,  1868.  ) 

My  Dear  R. : 

Nearly  two  months  have  passed  away  since  the  date  of  my 
last  letter,  and  here  we  are  no  more  than  half  way  home. 
We  had  hoped  to  be  nearing  the  States  by  this  time,  but  He 
who  controls  the  wind  and  the  waves  has  seen  fit  to  order  it 
otherwise.  We  murmur  over  the  light  and  baffling  winds 
that  $0  far  have  characterized  our  passage ; but  no  good  re- 
sults from  so  doing,  and  all  are  made  more  uncomfortable  and 
depressed  in  spirits. 

Thursday  morning,  April  23d,  I was  awakened  just  in  time 
to  get  on  deck  to  participate  in  the  parting  cheers  with  the 
vessels  in  Singapore  harbor,  when  much  the  same  cere- 
monies were  observed  as  characterized  our  departure  from 
Hong  Kong.  As  passengers  we  had  on  board,  besides  Mrs. 
Belknap,  two  little  sons  of  Rev.  Dr.  Dean  of  Singapore,  who 
were  going  home  to  the  States  to  be  educated. 

Pleasantly  but  slowly  steaming  down  the  Rhio  and  Banca 
Straits,  Sunday  night  we  passed  into  the  Java  Sea,  and  the  fol- 
lowing afternoon  sighted  Anjer  Point,  a long,  narrow  point  of 
land  which  extends  out  in  a northwesterly  direction  from  the 
island  of  Java,  with  high  mountains  rising  behind  it.  About 
dark  we  dropped  anchor  there,  a mile  from  the  shore. 

Anjer  Point  lies  in  Lat  6°  03'  S.,  Long.  105°  56'  E.,  and 
is  well  known  to  all  those  interested  in  maritime  affairs.  For 
the  world -wide  notoriety  which  it  has  attained,  it  is  a small, 
insignificant  place.  Only  three  or  four  mean  looking  houses 
are  to  be  seen,  with  the  Dutch  flag  floating  over  them.  The 
country  around  is  exceedingly  wild  and  picturesque,  covere 


422 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


with  forests  and  a luxuriant  foliage.  Along  the  be,ach  are  large 
groves  of  fruit  trees,  and  in  full  view  from  our  anchorage  was 
one  of  the  noted  banyan  trees,  which  is  said  to  cover  more 
than  an  acre  of  ground.  We  stopped  for  coal ; but  when  the 
Paymaster  went  on  shore  the  following  morning,  he  found 
that  none  was  to  be  had  without  first  sending  to  Batavia 
and  getting  permission  from  the  Governor,  which  would  de- 
tain us  three  days  at  least.  The  Commodore  decided  not  to 
wait ; so  after  taking  on  board  a quantity  of  fowls  and  fruits, 
and  making  some  additions  to  our  already  large  number  of 
monkeys  and  other  pets,,  we  set  . sail  from  Anjer  that  same 
day. 

For  three  or  four  days  we  pursued  a southerly  course, 
hoping  to  get  fair  winds.  On  the  evening  of  May  6th  a 
musk-cat  fell  overboard,  and  the  old  sailors  predicted  and  pre- 
pared themselves  for  a “ blow.”  Sure  enough,  we  did  have 
a blow,  which  came  upon  us  without  a moment’s  warning. 
The  “ light  sails  ” were  soon  taken  in  and  the  topsails  reefed. 
A squall  of  a few  minutes,  and  then  the  wind  settled  down 
into  a good,  steady  breeze,  so  that  we  stopped  the  engines, 
triced  up  the  propeller,  and  proceeded  under  sail  alone.  But 
the  wind  was  not  long  steady,  and  soon  we  had  another  squall, 
worse  than  the  first.  Through  some  carelessness  or  misman- 
agement of  the  man  at  the  helm,  the  ship  was  laid  in  the 
trough  of  the  sea,  and  then  commenced  some  of  her  antics. 
She  rolled  and  pitched  about  terribly,  throwing  hen-coops, 
ditty-boxes,  and  other  loose  articles  into  glorious  confusion 
on  the  spar-deck,  and  mess-chests,  kettles,  and  other  utensils 
on  the  berth-deck.  To  make  matters  worse,  she  at  the  same 
time  took  in  a heavy  sea  over  the  entire  length  of  the  weather 
side,  completely  flooding  both  decks.  To  the  more  fortunate 
it  was  amusing  to  see  the  various  articles  washing  backward 
and  forward  about  the  decks,  and  to  witness  the  almost 
frantic  attempts  of  some  poor  unfortunate  to  recover  treasures 
which  had  got  adrift.  That  morning  we  were  content  with  a 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


423 


pint  of  half  made  coffee  and  a cracker  or  two  for  breakfast, 
because  it  was  more  than  we  for  a time  expected. 

We  had  three  or  four  such  unpleasant  days  at  different 
times ; but  the  passage  on  the  whole  was  an  exceedingly 
quiet  and  pleasant  one,  although  the  wind  was  so  light  that 
we  could  not  make  as  rapid  progress  as  all  desired.  The 
Hartford  displayed  her  sailing  qualities  in  overhauling  and 
passing  a great  number  of  vessels  — fast  tea-clippers  and  all. 
Not  a single  vessel  did  we  encounter  that  showed  sailing 
powers  equal  to  those  of  our  good  craft.  Yes ! it  certainly 
was  a very  pleasant  passage ; and  as  the  weather  was  mild 
and  comfortable  most  of  the  time,  there  was  but  little  work 
to  be  done.  Drills  were  suspended,  and  all  had  abundant 
opportunities  to  prepare  their  “ homeward  bound”  suits,  spin 
yarns,  and  talk  over  s^id  plan  about  home  matters. 

Early  June  1st,  we  sighted  land  which  later  in  the  day  we 
found  to  be  a point  on  the  coast  of  Southern  Africa,  called 
Hole-in-the-Wall.  This  is  so  called  because  there  is  a large 
hole  in  the  rocky  ridge  of  hills  which  line  the  coast.  It  is  a 
bleak  and  barren  point,  but  possesses  an  unusual  amount  of 
wild  and  romantic  scenery.  There  are  many  curious  forma- 
tions beside  the  one  that  I have  noticed,  some  of  them  bear- 
ing a striking  resemblance  to  familiar  objects.  Among  the 
most  noteworthy  of  these  are  the  profile  of  a lion  and  a fort 
of  gigantic  proportions.  Four  high  peaks  towered  above  the 
others,  so  that  the  inclosed  apex  seemed  the  magazine ; the 
precipitous,  angular  sides  frowned  destruction  at  every  point, 
like  bastions ; an  immense  ravine  formed  the  fosse,  or  moat, 
and  the  sloping  glacis  down  to  the  plain  was  equally  well  rep- 
resented. 

As  we  altered  our  course  from  the  westward  to  the  south- 
ward, and  sailed  along  the  eastern  coast  side,  nothing  could 
be  seen  but  barren  rocks;  or,  as  a French  voyager  says,  “It 
appears  as  if  just  having  suffered  from  the  effects  of  great 
fires.  The  naked  rocks,  that  are  heaped  in  disorder  one  over 


424 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


the  Qther,  and  cut  offand  rent  by  fantastic  fracture,  rise  from 
the  bottom  of  the  sea  and  mount  to  the  clouds.”  It  is  not 
thus,  however,  by  the  best  accounts,  in  the  valleys  and  along 
the  hillocks  of  the  interior,  where  abundant  moisture  sustains 
vegetation,  and  the  tropical  plants  display  their  rich  fruits 
beneath  an  eternal  verdure.  In  these  places,  I have  been 
informed,  there  are  some  of  the  finest  and  most  productive 
tracts  in  the  world. 

After  we  left  Hole-in-the-Wall,  we  were  a week  in  reach- 
ing Simon’s  Town.  There  we  were  gladdened  by  news  from 
home,  and  the  usual  ceremonies  of  an  arrival  in  port  were 
performed.  No  change  worthy  of  note  had  been  made  since 
we  were  there  two  and  a half  years  ago.  We  remained 
there  a week,  and  then,  not  being  able  to  procure  what  coal 
and  provisions  we  wished,  came  around  here.  The  first 
intention  was  to  transport  the  necessary  supplies  over  land 
to  Simon’s  Town,  as  it  is  dangerous  lying  here  at  this 
season  of  the  year.  Of  the  insecurity  of  Table  Bay  for 
shipping  I informed  you  at  our  previous  visit.  The  break- 
water which  I then  mentioned  as  being  constructed  has  been 
extended  out  about  half  a mile,  and  the  chain  gang  are  still 
kept  at  work  upon  it.  The  earth  used  in  its  construction  is  all 
taken  from  the  space  between  the  breakwater  and  the  town, 
■where  is  to  be  made  an  Inner  Harbor,  large  enough  to  ac- 
commodate forty  or  fifty  vessels.  We  are  lying  behind  the 
breakwater,  and  although  we  have  had  one  day  of  windy,  un- 
pleasant weather,  we  were  not  in  the  least  affected  by  it,  and 
continued  taking  in  coal  all  day.  Most  of  the  time,  however, 
since  we  have  been  here,  the  weather  has  been  remarkably 
calm  and  pleasant. 

We  finished  taking  in  coal  and  provisions  to-day,  and  to- 
morrow we  leave  here  for  St.  Helena.  All  are  lively  and 
merry  this  eve  and  anxious  for  the  morning,  praying  for 
good,  fair  breezes  to  favor  us  and  speedily  bear  us  to  our 
loved  ones  at  home. 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


425 


LETTER  XLIII. 

U.  S.  S.  Hartford,  St.  Helena,  1 
July  7,  1868.  j 

My  Dear  R. : 

With  everything  on  board  that  we  required,  Saturday  noon, 
we  again  heard  the  welcome  words,  “ All  hands  up  anchor 
for  home.”  With  alacrity  every  one  took  his  position  at  the 
“ bars,”  and  when  the  order  was  given  to  u heave  away,”  all 
seemed  to  be  striving  to  vie  with  the  fife  in  liveliness.  Since 
leaving  Hong  Kong,  every  successive  occasion  for  weighing 
anchor  has  been  attended  with  increased  animation.  There 
has  been  no  need  for  any  one  to  hunt  up  the  “ skulkers  ” and 
drive  them  to  their  stations,  but  upon  the  first  signal  all 
promptly  respond,  and  work  with  a will,  anxious  to  be  nearer 
and  nearer  to  those  loved  ones  from  whom  we  have  been  so 
long  separated. 

We  have  on  board  as  passengers,  in  addition  to  those  we 
had  before,  Judge  Pringle,  — U.  S.  Commissioner  to  Africa 
to  investigate  the  slave  trade  and  aid  in  its  suppression,  — a 
deserter,  and  a destitute  seaman.  • 

After  the  customary  salutes  had  been  fired  and  we  had 
“ cheered  ship,”  we  moved  slowly  out  of  the  harbor,  with  the 
long  pennant  flying  and  all  hoping  for  fair  and  favorable 
winds  for  the  remainder  of  our  “ homeward  bound  passage.” 
And  yet  there  was  a feeling  of  regret  experienced  by  many, 
as  they  stood  upon  the  forecastle  and  felt  that  they  were  be- 
holding for  the  last  time  Good  Hope,  with  all  its  peaks  and 
promontories,  and  the  charming  little  city  of  Cape  Town, 
with  its  picturesque  surroundings.  The  view  was  certainly 
beautiful  in  the  extreme  and  one  long  to  be  remembered. 

19* 


426 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


The  wind  favored  our  passage  from  Cape  Town  through- 
out ; and  along  with  steady  strong  breezes,  we  had  charming 
weather,  a smooth  sea,  and  all  hands  in  the  best  of  spirits. 
Every  day  there  was  an  exercise  of  some  kind  — sometimes 
two  or  three,  exercises ; bnt  there  wTas  always  time  and  incli- 
nation for  sports  in  the  evening.  With  the  work  and  sports, 
the  two  weeks  occupied  in  making  the  passage,  flew  by  very 
pleasantly  and  quickly. 

At  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  “ Fourth,”  St.  Helena 
was  sighted  — then  some  seventy  or  eighty  miles  distant.  As 
we  approached,  it  appeared  like  a huge  rock  — as  it  is  in 
reality  — rising  out  of  the  sea.  As  we  then  viewed  it,  there 
was  little  or  nothing  offered  to  the  eye  but  an  assemblage  of 
lofty  and  barren  hills,  intersected  in  all  directions  by  deep 
and  narrow  valleys,  in  many  places  little  better  than  ravines, 
and  generally  devoid  of  vegetation,  except  here  and  there 
patches  of  prickly  pear  and  profitless  weeds.  The  shores  on  all 
sides  are  lined  with  almost  perpendicular  cliffs  running  down 
to  the  sea,  and  frequently  rising  to  a height  of  more  than  five 
hundred  feet.  A mere  glance  shows  St.  Helena  to  be  vol- 
canic, belonging  most  probably  to  the  secondary  period.  The 
island  cannot  fail  to  be  of  considerable  interest  from  its  soli- 
tary position  in  the  South  Atlantic,  as  well  as  from  its 
marked  and  peculiar  character.  Well  was  the  spot  chosen, 
not  only  for  the  safe  keeping  of  Napoleon,  but  also  for  soon 
wearing  out  a man  with  such  an  active  and  soaring  mind  as 
his,  in  this  dreary  and  rocky  prison. 

Sailing  along  close  under  the  eastern  side  of  the  island  and 
rounding  Sugarloaf  Summit,  we  dropped  anchor  on  the  north- 
ern, and  leeward,  side,  about  two  miles  distant  from  James- 
town. This  is  the  principal  collection  of  houses  on  the  island, 
and  lies  at  the  foot  of  a gently-sloping  valley,  which  runs 
down  to  the  sea  from  the  interior,  and  which  is  the  only  one 
in  sight  from  the  sea  that  has  any  signs  of  vegetation.  It  is 
narrow  and  winding,  extends  back  about  one  and  one-half 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


427 


miles  from  the  beach,  and  is  bordered  on  either  hanl  by  per- 
pendicular walls  of  rock,  more  than  six  hundred  feet  high. 
The  beach  along  in  front  of  the  town  affords  the  only  good 
spot  for  landing  on  the  whole  island,  and  is  strongly  fortified 
by  a fine  stone  battery,  extending  along  its  entire  length,  two 
or  three  batteries  perched  upon  the  eminences  to  the  east- 
ward, and  the  fine  fort  on  Ladder  Hill,  which  overlooks  the 
town. 

Ladder  Hill  takes  its  name  from  the  ladder,  or  flight  of 
steps,  six  hundred  and  sixty-two  in  number,  by  which  its 
summit  is  reached  from  the  town.  Upon  the  eminence  back 
of  the  fort  are  the  ruins  of  the  “Alarm-house,”  near  which 
are  located  the  Artillery  barracks. 

Immediately  after  anchoring  we  “saluted  the  port”  — 
English  ensign  at  the  main  — which  was  answered  by  the 
fort.  Then  when  we  had  received  visits  from  the  health  offi- 
cer and  one  or  two  other  officials,  several  bumboat-men  and 
washerwomen,  we  “ dressed  ship  ” ; and  as  a compliment  to 
us,  the  few  vessels  in  the  harbor  did  the  same.  The  after- 
noon, as  usual,  was  given  to  the  crew,  and  was  celebrated  by 
them  in  the  customary  manner.  At  sunset  a salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns  was  fired,  both  by  the  Hartford  and  the  fort. 

Many  of  us  were  hoping  to  be  able  to  obtain  permission  to 
go  on  shore ; but  upon  the  first  application,  the  Commodore 
gave  orders  that  no  one  except  officers  was  to  leave  the  ship. 

Yesterday,  however,  I was  sent  on  shore  on  duty,  and 
then  obtained  permission  to  spend  the  day  as  I chose.  I 
landed  at  the  little  pier  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  broad 
Walk  which  extends  along  the  beach  in  front  of  the  battery. 
Between  these  there  is  a wide,  deep  moat,  in  which  the 
ditches  — dug  along  the  base  of  the  hill  on  either  side  of  the 
town  — discharge  the  waters  which  run  down  their  sides 
during  a rain  storm.  By  this  moat  the  water  is  carried  to 
the  sea. 

After  having  passed  along  the  greater  portion  of  the  walk, 


428 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


I crossed  over  the  moat,  passed  through  the  gate  in  the  bat 
tery  wall,  and  stood  in  the  square  on  the  inner  side.  Upon 
either  hand  were  barrack  buildings  and  guard-rooms,  before 
which  sentries  were  pacing  to  and  fro.  Farther  on,  and 
bordering  on  the  Square,  there  were,  on  the  right  hand,  two  or 
three  hotels  ; on  the  left,  a mansion  and  grounds,  and  at  the 
head,  a church. 

In  the  first  place,  while  waiting  for  a friend,  I decided 
upon  ascending  Ladder  Hill.  The  hill  is  only  six  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  but  the  Ladder  is  more  than 
seven  hundred  feet  in  length.  For  the  first  fourth  of  the 
ascent,  I experienced  little  or  no  fatigue;  the  second,  I 
began  to  feel  tired;  the  third,  I had  to  rest  every  few  steps  ; 
and  by  the  time  I reached  the  top,  I was  completely  ex- 
hausted. The  satisfaction  of  having  performed  the  feat,  and 
the  splendid  view  that  I had  of  the  town  and  harbor,  more 
than  repaid  me  for  my  exertion  and  fatigue.  As  I was  about 
to  visit  the  fort,  I saw  my  friend  approaching  the  shore,  and 
made  haste  to  descend  and  join  him. 

After  leaving  the  Square,  we  went  up  a small,  narrow 
street,  lined  on  either  hand  with  stores  — the  business  quar- 
ter of  the  town.  We  branched  off  from  this  street,  passed 
through  the  market,  and  came  to  a small  square,  on  two  sides 
of  which  were  “ stables.”  Our  officers  were  before  us  and 
had  selected  the  best  of  the  horses,  so  we  were  forced  to  be 
content  with  two  as  “sorry  nags”  as  man  ever  rode.  For 
the  use  of  them  we  were  compelled  to  pay  in  advance  fifteen 
shillings,  which  was  in  reality  four  times  what  the  beasts 
were  worth.  I do  not  doubt  but  that  the  owners  would  have 
thought  they  had  made  a satisfactory  bargain  if  we  had 
killed  or  made  away  with  the  horses,  and  they  had  never  re- 
ceived any  compensation  more  than  the  sum  we  paid  for  a 
day’s  use  of  them. 

Leaving  the  town,  we  took  the  road  to  the  westward,  and 
at  a brisk  canter  started  to  ascend  the  hill.  As  we  advanced 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


429 


the  harbor,  town,  and  valley  were  spread  out  before  us,  form- 
ing one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  charming  panoramic 
views  that  it  was  ever  my  good  fortune  to  behold. 

About  a mile  above  the  town,  we  came  to  “ The  Briars,”  a 
beautiful  spot  and  intimately  connected  with  the  Emperor 
Napoleon  during  the  earlier  part  of  his  captivity.  It  was 
here  he  resided  while  Longwood  House  was  being  prepared 
for  his  reception.  The  property  is  now  owned  by  Messrs. 
Solomon  & Moss,  the  wealthiest  ship  chandlery  firm  in  James- 
town. Hitherto  our  road  had  been  bordA-ed  with  barren 
rocks,  with  no  other  vegetation  than  a few  creepers  and  a 
species  of  cactus.  The  principal  varieties  of  rocks  met  with 
on  the  island  are  soft  Limestone  and  what  is  called  the  blue- 
gray  Lava  Stone.  The  hardest  and  best  qualities  of  Lime 
Stone  are  found  nearest  to  the  water’s  edge ; and  in  practice, 
it  is  said  that  it  will  yield  lime  rich  enough  to  bear  being 
mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  sand,  measure  for  measure. 
The  Lava  Stone  is  very  abundant,  and  is  the  most  durable 
rock  found  on  the  island  for  building  purposes.  It  is  nearly 
as  hard  as  granite  and  of  considerable  density,  although 
“ honeycombed,”  like  most  lavas.  It  is  often  traversed  by 
dark  veins  of  exceedingly  hard,  flint-like  stone,  which  is  very 
difficult  to. work  and  ruinous  to  chisels  not  well  tempered. 

I said  that  the  “ Briars”  was  a beautiful  spot.  We  had 
not  thought  it  possible  that  such  a charming  place  existed  or 
could  exist  on  such  a barren  island,  — a huge  rock  it  ap- 
peared to  us  in  approaching  it  from  the  sea.  'The  house  is 
quite  a plain  two-story  building;  but  the  grounds,  — com- 
prising some  twenty  or  thirty  acres,  situated  in  a lovely  little 
valley,  — are  very  finely  laid  out  and  adorned.  They  are 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a chain  of  mountains,  five  or 
six  hundred  feet  high,  their  sides  almost  perpendicular,  and 
ragged  with  huge  calcined  boulders,  which  look  almost  as  if 
they  had  been  at  no  remote  period  vomited  from  the  fiery 
mouth  of  some  volcano.  These  mountain  sides  are  rendered 


430 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


exceedingly  picturesque  and  charming  by  the  luxuriantly 
growing  Scarlet  Geranium,  and.  the  large  quantity  of  furze 
and  scrambling  brambles ; while  their  beauties  are  farther 
enhanced  by  a pretty  little  cascade,  which  comes  leaping 
down  behind  the  house. 

Just  beyond  this  point  our  road  took  a sharp  turn  to  the 
left,  and  then  after  a few  steps,  to  the  right,  in  which  direc- 
tion it  continued  for  about  one-fourth  of  a mile,  between  rows 
of  willows.  These  are  said  to  thrive  exceedingly  well,  and 
aside  from  being  valuable  for  firewood,  are  now  quite  orna- 
mental and  pleasing  to  the  eye,  being  covered  with  their  yel- 
low catkins.  At  the  end  of  this  walk  stands  the  half-way 
house,  called  “ Willow  Cottage,”  from  the  fine  grove  of  wil- 
lows in  the  midst  of  which  it  is  situated.  Here  we  stopped 
and  partook  of  some  refreshments  — “ cakes  and  beer.” 

From  the  cottage  to  the  “ Alarm  House,”  the  road,  still 
ascending,  has  for  its  shade-trees  a species  of  Ebony  and 
Redwood,  while  scattered  here  and  there,  may  be  seen  a few 
specimens  of  the  Cabbage-tree.  This  is  not  a remarkably 
graceful  tree,  the  odd  bunches  of  leaves  and  flowers  at  the 
head  of  its  branches  looking  at  a little  distance  not  unlike  a 
cabbage,  whence  probably  its  name.  With  the  exception  of 
Diana’s  Peak,  the  hill  on  which  Alarm  House  is  situated  is 
the  highest  point  of  land  on  the  island.  The  former  is  2,70 
feet  high,  and  from  it  a fine  view  of  the  whole  island  may  be 
obtained. 

Leaving  Alarm  House  and  ascending  gradually,  we  soon 
came  in  sight  of  the  “ Devil’s  Punch  Bowl,”  a circular  ravine, 
sloping  towards  the  northward,  near  the  head  of  which  is  the 
Tomb  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon.  Passing  through  the  gate- 
way on  our  left,  and  descending  by  a bridle-path,  a few  min- 
utes’ ride  brought  us  to  the  outer  enclosure  of  the  Tomb 
Near  the  entrance  is  a little  house,  against  the  outside  of 
which  hangs  a board  bearing  a request  that  “ All  visitors 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


43.1 


will  dismount,  uncover  their  heads,  and  behave  with  respect 
and  reverence  in  entering  the  inclosure.” 

At  the  gate  we  were  met  by  the  French  Sergeant  in 
charge  of  the  Tomb,  who  showed  us  about  and  gave  us  such 
information  as  we  desired.  The  space  enclosed  by  the  outer 
fence  is  about  half  an  acre  in  extent,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
fine  wooden  fence,  five  rails  high.  Within  the  inclosure  are 
ten  cypresses,  and  overshadowing  the  Tomb  is  the  largest  and 
finest  weeping  willow  that  I ever  saw.  Near  the  upper  side 
is  a spring  of  water,  the  stones  around  the.  sides  of  which 
were  placed  by  Napoleon’s  own  hands. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  enclosure  is  the  Tomb  surrounded  by 
an  iron  fence,  about  twelve  feet  in  length  on  each  of  its  four 
sides.  The  plain  marble  slab  which  covers  the  grave  is 
nearly  concealed  by  geraniums  — the  only  plants  there  grow- 
ing. This  spot  was  a favorite  resort  of  Napoleon,  and  it  was 
at  his  request  that  he  was  buried  here.  He  was  brought  to 
the  island  October  9,  1815  ; died  May  5,  1821 ; and  his  re- 
mains were  removed  October  9,  1840. 

On  the  upper  side  of  the  inclosure  is  a small  cottage  where 
resides  the  Sergeant  and  his  wife,  and  close  by  this  is  another 
building,  used  as  a sort  of  sitting-room  for  visitors.  We  went 
up  to  the  latter  and  registered  our  names  in  a book  kept 
there  for  that  purpose,  and  which,  when  filled,  is  sent  to 
Paris.  This  done,  we  purchased  some  views  from  the  Ser- 
geant, picked  a few  leaves  from  the  geraniums  around  the 
Tomb,  and  took  our  departure. 

Returning  to  the  road,  we  continued  on  towards  “ Old 
Longwood  House.”  After  proceeding  about  a mile  we  came 
to  Hutt’s  Gate,  where  is  located  a small  Chapel  and  a house 
where  refreshments  can  be  procured.  From  thence  to  Old 
Longwood  House  the  distance  is  about  a mile,  over  nearly  a 
level  road.  On  the  right  hand  this  road  is  bordered  by  a 
plain  which  stretches  away  a mile  or  more,  while  on  the  left 
are  the  heads  of  two  deep,  picturesque  ravines,  both  of  them 


432 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


terminated  by  rocky  bluffs,  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high. 
As  we  rode  along  the  edge  of  these  bluffs  or  precipices,  and 
looked  down  into  the  giddy  depths  below,  our  heads  swam, 
and  my  companion  had  some  difficulty  in  keeping  his  saddle. 
I then  felt  that  — 

“ It  is  a fearful  thing 

To  stand  upon  the  beetling  verge,  and  see 
Where  storm  and  lightning  from  that  huge  gray  wall 
Have  tumbled  down  vast  blocks,  and  at  the  base 
Dash’d  them  in  fragments,  and  to  lay  thine  ear 
Over  the  dizzy  depths,  and  hear  the  sound 
Of  winds,  that  struggle  with  the  woods  below. 

Come  up  like  ocean  murmurs.” 

The  better  to  enjoy  the  sublime  view,  we  rode  slowly,  so 
that  it  was  nearly  noon  when  we  arrived  at  Old  Longwood 
House.  Two  little  boys  took  our  horses,  and  through  a 
small  gate  we  entered  the  grounds.  These  comprise  about 
two  acres,  laid  out  as  they  were  by  Napoleon  — the  same 
shrubs  and  plants  growing,  and  the  same  kind  of  vegetables 
and  flowers  being  cultivated  in  the  garden. 

The  house  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  grounds,  and  is  a 
range  of  one-story  buildings  in  the  form  of  a cross.  Entering 
by  the  front  door,  or  foot  of  the  cross,  we  stood  in  the  recep- 
tion room.  We  passed  through  this,  and  entered  the  most 
interesting  room  of  all.  It  is  called  “ Napoleon’s  room,”  and 
is  the  one  in  which  he  breathed  his  last.  In  the  spot  where 
the  bed  stood  is  now  a marble  bust  of  the  Emperor,  sur- 
rounded by  an  iron  railing.  The  “cast”  was  taken  after 
his  death,  but  the  bust  is  certainly  a very  fine  and  interesting 
piece  of  sculpture.  Beyond  this  room  is  the  dining-room, 
which,  with  a stairway,  occupies  the  middle  of  the  cross.  In 
the  right  wing  are  a bed-room,  library,  and  bath-room,  and 
in  the  left  wing  are  two  or  three  spare  apartments.  In  the 
head  of  the  cross  are  the  kitchen,  pantry  and  store  rooms. 
None  of  the  rooms  are  now  furnished.  The  wall-paper  was 
removed  a few  years  ago,  and  new  put  on  of  the  same  color 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


433 


and  figure  as  the  old.  As  at  the  Tomb,  everything  at  Old 
Longwood  House  is  under  the  constant  supervision  of  a Ser- 
geant in  charge.  Here  also  the  name  of  every  visitor  is 
registered,  and  the  book  of  names,  when  filled,  is  sent  to 
Paris. 

A few  rods  to  the  northward  is  Longwood  New  House. 
This  was  built  by  the  British  Government  for  the  Emperor’s 
accommodation,  but  was  never  occupied  by  him.  It  is  a very 
fine  looking  building  and  contains  fifty  rooms.  The  grounds 
are  extensive  and  very  tastefully  laid  out  and  adorned.  We 
wanted  to  make  a visit  there,  but  as  it  was  late  in  the  after- 
noon, thought  best  to  return  to  Jamestown. 

In  returning,  my  companion  was  thrown  from  his  horse 
striking  within  two  feet  of  the  edge  of  the  precipice  near 
Hutt’s  Gate,  and  only  by  grasping  a willow  bush  saved  him- 
self from  being  dashed  on  the  rocks,  two  hundred  feet  below. 
At  Hutt’s  Gate  we  were  met  by  a lady  who  had  some 
ferns,  mosses,  sprigs  of  cypress,  flowers,  and  sample  grains 
produced  on  the  island,  fastened  on  the  leaves  of  pamphlets, 
and  which  she  offered  for  sale.  Some  of  these,  with  the 
views,  were  the  only  desirable  curiosities  we  procured  or 
saw. 

The  extreme  length  of  St.  Helena  is  ten  and  one-half 
miles;  extreme  breadth,  six  and  three-fourths  miles;  circum- 
ference, twenty-nine  miles  ; superficies,  thirty  thousand  and 
three  hundred  acres.  Diana’s  Peak  is  the  highest  point  of 
land  on  the  island,  and  has  an  elevation  of  twenty-seven 
hundred  feet.  The  population  is  estimated  at  six  thousand, 
exclusive  of  the  Garrison.  The  inhabitants  are  a mixture  of 
every  shade,  color,  and  nationality,  and  the  theory  of  misce- 
genation can  be  seen  put  into  practice  to  its  fullest  extent. 

Well,  I have  been  ashore  at  St.  Helena,  and  I am  now 
ready  to  start  for  home  at  any  moment,  and  wish  for  no  fur- 
ther delay  or  stoppage  anywhere.  There  has  been  a fine 


434 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


and  favorable  breeze  blowing  ever  since  we  have  been  lying 
here,  and  it  does  seem  almost  too  bad  that  it  had  not  carried 
us  on  — nearer  to  home  and  friends  ; but  we  expect  to  leave 
this  evening,  and  hope  that  the  same  breezes  may  be- 
friend us.  i 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


435 


LETTER  XLIV. 

New  York,  August  15,  1868. 

My  Dear  R : 

Home  again ! and  now  I sit  down  to  finish  the  account  of 
our  voyage  home,  and  the  putting  of  the  Hartford  out  of  com- 
mission. I left  you  in  my  last  letter  at  St.  Helena,  uncertain 
as  to  what  we  would  do.  However,  notwithstanding  the 
“ well-authenticated  ” report  that  we  were  to  “ move  nearer 
in  shore  ” and  give  general-liberty  there,  the  following  day 
saw  us  take  our  departure  from  St.  Helena.  The  order  given 
there  was,  “ All  hands  up  anchor  for  the  United  States  ! ” 
Willing  were  all  at  the  “ bars  ” there,  and  it  did  not  require 
the  fife’s  enlivening  numbers  to  aid  in 

“ The  groaning  capstan’s  turning  ’round,” 

for  all  were  desirous  to  devote  their  entire  energy  to  doing 
anything  and  everything  that  should  shorten  the  time  and 
space  between  us  and  the  loved  ones  there.  As  soon  as  the 
anchor  was  up,  the  sails  were  loosed  and  filled  by  that  fair 
and  strong  breeze  which  had  been  blowing  for  several  days, 
and  which  lasted  us  close  up  to  the  Line.  Then,  as  the 
breeze  was  too  light  to  waft  us  on  with  the  desired  speed, 
we  let  down  the  propeller,  steamed  two  days,  and  were  again 
blessed  with  a strong  and  favorable  breeze,  which  we  held 
almost  up  to  Sandy  Hook. 

Every  spare  moment  of  this  passage  was  employed  by  all 
in  perfecting  ourselves  in  our  various  duties,  and  in  putting 
the  ship  in  the  most  attractive  trim  for  visit  and  inspection. 
In  the  evenings,  when  the  labors  of  the  day  were  over,  here 
and  there  about  the  decks  might  be  seen  knots  of  “congenial 
ones,”  talking  over  home  matters  and  speculating  upon  them. 


436 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


As  our  thoughts  would  dwell  upon  those  loved  ones  there, 
from  whom  we  had  been  separated  for  so  long  a time,  we 
could  speak  of  but  little  else,  and  none  seemed  to  tire  of 
planning  and  conjecturing,  as  well  as  wishing  for  the  manner 
and  circumstances  of  their  meeting  with  those  friends.  While 
the  most  of  us  have  had  our  fondest  hopes  and  desires  real- 
ized, there  are  some  of  our  number  that  have  had  them  all 
dashed  to  the  ground.  Yet  we  could  not  reasonably  expect 
that  it  would  be  otherwise ; but  still  we  may  extend  to  them 
our  most  heartfelt  sympathy  and  trust  that  in  His  own  good 
time  and  way  the  cup  of  sorrow  may  be  changed  for  one  of 
happiness,  better  for  having  undergone  their  present  trials 
and  sorrows. 

Thursday,  August  6, 1868,  will  long  be  remembered  by  us 
all  as  being  one  of  the  brightest  days  of  our  lives ; for  it  was 
then,  after  an  absence  of  forty-one  months,  we  were  per- 
mitted once  more  to  behold  the  shores  and  people  of  our 
own  country,  and  once  again  grasp  by  the  hand  and  ex- 
change greetings  with  friends  near  and  dear.  Then  our 
hearts  all  echoed  the  sentiment  expressed  in  C.’s  favorite 
song: 

“ I have  roamed  over  mountains,  and  crossed  over  flood, 

I have  traversed  the  wave-rolling  strand ; 

Though  the  fields  were  as  green,  and^he  moonshine  as  bright. 

It  was  not,  no,  it  was  not  my  own  native  land. 

Then  here’s  to  Columbia,  the  land  that  we  love, 

Where  flourishes  Liberty’s  tree ; 

’T  is  the  birth-place  of  freedom,  my  own  native  land, 

’T  is,  yes,  it  is  the  land  of  the  free.” 

How  different  from  those  we  had  forty-one  months  ago,  as 
we  steamed  down  Boston  Harbor,  bidding  country  and  friends 
“good-bye,”  not  knowing  as  we  should  ever  behold  them 
again,  were  our  emotions  as  we  sighted  the  Highlands  of 
Neversink  that  morning,  passed  Sandy  Hook  and  the  vessels 
lying  there  that  forenoon,  and  slowly  steamed  up  the  Bay  > 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


437 


and  at  noon  dropped  anchor  off  the  Battery.  Pen  hath  not 
power  to  express  the  joy  that  we  felt,  as  we  beheld  old, 
familiar  home-sights  once  more,  and  realized  that  we  were 
really 

“Home  again,  from  a foreign  shore.” 

As  soon  as  we  had  anchored,  the  ship’s  sides  were  throng- 
ed with  would-be  visitors  — friends  and  relatives  of  those  on 
board.  No  permission,  however,  was  granted  to  any  one 
to  come  on  that  day,  but  the  whole  crew  were  employed 
in  completing  the  preparations  for  the  final  inspection.  Many 
were  disposed  to  murmur  at  this  order,  but  the  more  sensible 
ones  saw  the  wisdom  and  fitness  of  it ; for,  upon  the  inspec- 
tion’s being  a satisfactory  one,  depended  our  more  speedy  re- 
lease from  the  ship,  as  well  as  honor  and  praise  for  all. 
This  the  order  would  further,  and  soon  we  all  saw  it  thus, 
and  choked  down  all  rebellious  feelings  and  eager  desires,  so 
far  as  we  were  able,  longing,  however,  for  that  time  soon  to 
come. 

Nor  were  we  compelled  to  wait  a long  time ; for  the  follow- 
ing day  we  were  visited  by  the  Commandant  of  Brooklyn 
Navy  Yard  and  the  other  members  of  the  Board  of  Inspec- 
tion. I will  not  weary  you  with  the  details,  and  will  only 
say,  that  the  Board  was  highly  gratified  with  the  appearance 
of  everything  about  the  ship,  and  with  the  various  exercises 
of  the  crew ; so  that,  after  an  inspection  of  more  than  four 
hours,  the  Commanding  Officer  complimented  us  by  saying 
that  we  “ excelled  in  every  particular  any  ship  or  crew  ever 
before  inspected  by  him.” 

After  the  inspection,  we  remained  at  our  anchorage  off  the 
Battery  until  the  10th.  During  the  intervening  two  days? 
the  ship  was  fairly  thronged  with  visitors  — many  to  behold 
and  speak  with  their  friends  and  relatives  once  more  after 
the  long  separation,  and  not  a few  desirous  of  seeing  the  ves- 
sel which  by  its  career  in  the  late  war  had  won  the  merited 


438 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN, 


title  of  “ The  Pride  of  the  Ocean.”  “ What  a magnificent 
ship ! ” exclaimed  one  and  another  of  a boat  load  of  visitors 
in  whose  company  I returned  to  the  ship  from  shore  one  day, 

‘ How  majestic  and  graceful!”  (and  those  who  spoke  were 
no  ordinary  land-crabs ;)  and  all  felt  that  she  was  a beautiful 
object  to  look  upon.  From  her  immense  but  symmetrical 
form  rose  her  gallant-masts,  and  throughout  her  rigging,  her 
tapering  spars,  and  delicate  blocks,  each  part  seemed  to  lend 
and  gain  a charm  from  every  other;  and,  as  Jack  Fid  said 
of  the  Rover,  when  he  stowed  into  his  cheek  a lump  that  re- 
sembled a wad  laid  by  a gun-slide,  “ I care  not  who  knows 
it,  but  whether  done  by  honest  men  or  done  by  knaves,  one 
might  be  at  Spithead  a month,  and  not  see  hamper  so  light, 
and  so  handy  as  is  seen  aboard  that  flyer.  Her  lower  rigging 
is  harpened  in  like  the  waist  of  Nell  Dale,  after  she  1ms  had 
a fresh  pull  upon  her  stay-lanyards,  and  there  isn’t  a block 
among  them  all  that  seems  bigger  in  its  place  than  do  the 
eyes  of  the  girl  in  her  own  good-looking  countenance.”  We 
all  have  good  reason  for  being  proud  of  our  ship,  and  there- 
fore may  be  pardoned  for  mentioning  anything  that  might  be 
said  in  her  praise. 

Monday  morning  we  were  towed  up  to  the  Navy  Yard, 
and  moored  alongside  the  wharf.  Three  days  were  occupied 
by  the  crew  in  removing  the  ammunition,  stores,  and  running 
rigging  from  the  ship,  and  then  they  were  allowed  to  go  on 
shore  and  remain  until  their  accounts  should  be  returned 
from  Washington.  These  were  received  Thursday  evening, 
and  yesterday  morning  the  Paymaster  began  to  pay  them  off 
and  give  them  their  discharges.  The  work  was  accomplished 
about  noon,  and  after  a delay  of  about  two  hours  the  Guard 
and  the  Ofiicers  assembled  on  the  quarter-deck,  while  the 
Captain  read  the  papers  placing  the  ship  out  of  commission  ; 
then,  at  the  third  roll  of  the  drum,  the  Guard  presented  arms, 
and  the  Officers  uncovered  their  heads,  the  colors  and  pen- 
nant were  hauled  down,  and  the  Hartford  was  ‘‘put  out  of 


AND  A VOYAGE  THITHER. 


489 


commission.”  The  Guard  then  formed,  under  command  of 
Captain  Forney,  to  march  to  the  Barracks.  Our  fine  ap- 
pearance, dressed  as  we  were  in  showy  “ uniform  ” and  white 
pants,  was  heightened  by  our  elegant  silk  flag  which  we  had 
had  made  in  China  and  brought  home  with  us ; so  that  as  we 
marched  through  the  principal  streets  on  our  way,  their  sides 
were  lined  by  thousands  who  had  assembled  to  see  us. 

There  is  now  no  more  a “ Hartford’s  Crew.”  Our  corpo- 
rate life  is  extinct.  Once  more  we  are  citizens.  Some  ther£ 
are  among  us  whose  future  life  will  be  but  a repetition  of 
the  past  three  years.  They  have  no  home  but  “on  the 
rolling  deep,”  nor  do  they  desire  any  other  ; and  they  will  be 
content  to  pass  the  remainder  of  their  days  upon  the  ocean 
and  in  visiting  foreign  climes,  desiring  no  more  than  a month 
on  shore  in  their  own  country,  in  which  to  spend  the  accumu- 
lated earnings  of  the  cruise.  It  may  perhaps  be  well  that 
the  larger  share  of  us  have  reasons  to  remember  with  pride 
that  we  are  citizens  of  a country  whose  grandest  influences 
are  to  be  found  in  the  ways  of  peace,  and  to  which  we  will 
henceforth  cling  with  strengthened  affection,  after  the  many 
trials  and  privations  which  we  have  endured.  But  these 
latter  belong  to  the  past,  only  to  be  remembered  in  the  future 
as  a background  the  more  clearly  to  set  forth  the  blessings 
that  may  be  in  store  for  us. 


APPENDIX. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  OF  THE  U.  S.  S.  WACHUSETT,  FROM  MARCH  5,  1865, 
TO  SEPT.  14,  1867. 


Comdr.  Robt.  Townsend,  t 
Comdr.  Robt.  W.  Shufeldt, 
Lieut.  John  W.  Phillip,  J 
Lieut.  E.  T.  Brower, 
Master  T.  G.  Grove, 

W.  B.  Newman, 

J.  C.  Pegram,  § 

W.  C Wise,  \ 

C.  R.  Haskins, 

Thomas  Kelly,  t 
Reuben  Rich, 

Jas.  Moran, 

Wm.  M.  King,  § 

Thos.  Penrose, 

E.  H.  Sears, 

E.  B.  Latch, 

M*.  H.  Knapp,  § 

Edmund  Lincoln, 

J.  H.  Lewars, 

Jefferson  Brown, 

Jas  A.  Barton, 

A.  Forbes, 

Paul  Atkinson,  § 

T.  Russell, 

Mr.  Townsend,  § 

Mr.  Shufeldt, 

Mr.  Thomas, 


Captain. 

Executive  Officer. 

u 

Sailing  Master. 
Master. 

Ensign. 


Master’s  Mate. 

H 

Surgeon. 

Passed  Asst.  Surgeon 
Assistant-Paymaster. 
First  Asst.  Engineer. 
Second  “ “ 

u u a 

Third  “ 

u a u 

a a u 

u u << 

Boatswain. 

Gunner. 

Captain’s  Clerk. 
Paymaster’s  Clerk. 


t Died  of  Disease. 

20 


t Transferred. 


§ Sent  Home. 


442 


APPENDIX. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  OF  U.  S.  FLAG  SHIP, 

HARTFORD,  FROM  SEPT.  14, 1867, 

TO  AUGUST  14 

t,  1868. 

Rear  Admiral  H.  H.  Bell,  || 

Comdg.  Asiatic  Squadron. 

Commodore  J.  R.  Goldsboro, 

“ “ « 

Comdr.  Geo.  E.  Belknap, 

Captain. 

Lieut.  Comdr.  J.  TV.  Phillip, 

Ex.  Officer. 

“ “ F.  J.  Higginson, 

Sailing  Master. 

Lieut.  J.  J.  Read,  || 

Flag  Lieut. 

Lieut.  TV.  TV.  Maclay, 

C( 

A.  S.  Crowningshield, 

Lieutenant. 

Jas.  A.  Sands, 

“ 

TV.  C.  Wise, 

a 

W.  M.  Folger, 

Master. 

Horace  Elmer, 

iC 

Joseph  Beale, 

Fleet  Surgeon. 

Washington  Irving, 

“ Paymaster, 

Andrew  Lawton, 

“ Engineer. 

G.  W.  Dorrance, 

Chaplain. 

Capt.  Jas.  Forney, 

Fleet  Marine  Officer. 

Wm.  Watts, 

Midshipman. 

C.  H.  Page,  t 

Assistant  Surgeon. 

F.  A.  Wilson, 

First  Assistant  Engineer. 

D.  Smith, 

((  tc 

0.  TV.  Allison, 

Second  “ “ 

J.  A.  Smith, 

“ « “ 

G.  McAllister, 

Third  “ “ 

Robt.  Muir, 

a a a 

Jas.  Mellon, 

a ic  u 

Wm.  Long, 

Boatswain. 

R.  H.  Cross, 

Gunner. 

R.  A.  Willi ams, 

Carpenter. 

Jacob  Stephens, 

Sailmaker. 

t Died  of  Disease.  % Transferred. 

§ Sent  Home.  ||  Drowned. 

APPENDIX. 


443 


COMPREHENSIVE  SUMMARY. 

Of  a Cruise  in  the  U.  S.  S.  Wachusett,  Continued  in  the  U.  S. 
Flag  Ship  Hartford. 

ASIATIC  SQUADRON, 

COMMENCING  AT  BOSTON,  MARCH  5,  1865,  ENDING  AT  NEW  YORK 
AUG.  14,  1867. 


PORTS  VISITED. 

ARRIVED. 

No. 

of  Days 
in  Port. 

DEPARTURE 

No. 

of  Days 
! at  Sea. 

Distance 
Sailed 
in  Knots. 

Month 

Day, 

Month 

. Day 

1865. 

1865. 

Boston,  U.  S. 

March 

5 

March 

5 

Port  Royal,  Martinique, 

“ 

16 

16 

April 

1 

10 

1 1,944 

St.  Pierre,  “ 

April 

1 

3 

“ 

4 

12 

Porto  Grand,  Cape  Verde 

29 

11 

May 

9 

24 

3,530 

Porto  Prava,  “ 

May 

10 

17 

CC 

27 

1 

165 

St.  Catharine,  Brazil, 

June 

28 

•6 

July 

4 

32 

1 4,066 

Rio  Janerio,  “ 

July 

7 

66 

Sept. 

20 

3 

472 

Simon’s  Town,  S.  Africa, 

Oct. 

20 

7 

Oct. 

27 

29 

i 4,006 

Cape  Town,  “ 

cc 

27 

27 

Nov. 

23 

1-2 

60 

1866. 

Batavia,  Java, 

Jan. 

10 

17 

Jan. 

27 

491 

1 5,710 

Ambung,  Borneo, 

Feb. 

5 

1 

Feb. 

6 

8 

1,120 

Manilla,  Luzon, 

CC 

13 

15 

cc 

28 

7 

719 

Hong  Kong,  China, 

March 

5 

10 

March 

15 

5 

692 

Macao,  “ 

CC 

15 

18 

April 

3 

1-2 

40 

Canton,  “ 

April 

3 

12 

“ 

15 

1-2 

83 

Hong- Kong,  “ 

4 C 

16 

2 

CC 

18 

1 

107 

Shanghai,  “ 

a 

24 

5 

CC 

29 

6 1 

892 

Yingtse,  “ 

Mav 

4 

64 

July 

CC 

7 

4 1 

699 

Great  Wall,  “ 

July 

cc 

8 

1-4 

8 

1 i 

151 

Takoo,  “ 

9 

1.6 

“ 

9 

1 

145 

Chefoo,  “ 

“ 

10 

2 

CC 

12 

1 

161 

Tung-Chow-foo, 

cc 

12 

3 

15 

1-6 

40 

Chefoo,  “ 

“ 

15 

6 

a 

21 

1-6 

40 

Shanghai  “ 

cc 

25 

16 

Aug. 

10 

4 1 

530 

Chinkiang-foo,  “ 

Aug. 

12 

3 

CC 

15 

1 1-2' 

207 

Shanghai,  “ 

“ 

15 

3 

CC 

18 

1-2  i 

107 

Yokohama,  Japan, 

“ 

23 

8 

“ 

31 

4 1-2 

1,054 

Yedo, 

<< 

31 

7 

Sept. 

6 

1-4  ! 

15 

Yokohama,  “ 

Sept. 

6 

6 

CC 

13 

1-4  : 

15 

Oosima,  “ 

Cc 

14 

2 

CC 

16 

1 1-2 

235 

Nagasaki,  “ 

cc 

20 

4 

iC 

24 

4 | 

489 

Hong-Kong,  China, 

cc 

29 

14 

Oct. 

13 

5 1 

1,037 

Macao,  “ 

Oct. 

13 

3 

“ 

16 

i-4 

40 

Hong-Kong,  “ 

“ 

20 

14 

Nov. 

3 

4 

50 

Tinghoy,  “ 

Nov. 

3 

1 

CC 

4 

1 j 

46 

444 


APPENDIX. 


PORTS  VISITED. 

ARRIVED. 

CG  • 
• ^ U 
pgp 

DEPARTURE 

No. 

of  Days 

i Distances 
Sailed 
in  Knots. 

Month 

. Day 

-1 

• O.S 

Month.  Day, 

Swatow,  China, 

1866. 

Nov. 

5 

5 

1866. 

Nov. 

10 

1 

144 

Tungsang,  “ 

“ 

12 

4 12 

! “ 

17 

1-2 

34 

Amoy,  “ 

“ 

17 

11 

ct 

28 

1-2 

63 

Hong  Kong,  “ 

a 

29 

8 1-2 

! Dec. 

7 

1 1-2 

! 260 

Whampoa,  “ 

Dec. 

7 

15* 

“ 

23 

1 

82 

Hong  Kong,  “ 

“ 

24 

5 

ii 

29 

1 

82 

Shanghai,  “ 

1867. 

Jan. 

6 

4 

Jan. 

10 

4 

885 

Chefoo,  “ 

Cl 

14 

6 

“ 

22 

2 1-2 

! 486 

Nein-fo,  Corea, 

“ 

23 

6 

“ 

29 

1 3-4 

154 

Port  Hamilton,  Corea, 

Feb. 

1 

2 

Feb. 

3 

2 1-2 

! 455 

Shanghai,  China, 

“ 

5 

20 

a 

25 

2 1-2 

! 408 

Chinkiang-foo,  China, 

“ 

27 

1 1-2 

I March 

i 1 

1 3 4 

162 

Kiu-Kiang,  “ 

March 

i 4 

1 

H 

5 

1 1-2 

! 300 

Hankow,  “ 

“ 

6 

7 1-2 

! cc 

14 

1 

156 

Kiu-Kiang,  “ 

“ ' 

15 

8 

Cl- 

23 

1 1-2 

! 156 

Nankin,  “ 

“ 

24 

2 1-2 

l cc 

27 

1 

255 

Chinkiang-foo,  “ 

Cl 

27 

2 

cc 

29 

1-3 

45 

Shanghai,  “ 

“ 

30 

4 

April 

3 

1 

162 

Foo-Chow,  “ 

April 

6 

7 

13 

3 

444 

Chinhai, 

CC 

16 

2 

“ 

18 

3 

320 

Ningpo,  “ 

CC 

18 

5 

CC 

23 

12 

Shanghai,  “ 

u 

24 

95 

July 

29 

1 

142 

Ragged  Islands,  “ 

July 

30 

1 

Cl 

31 

1 

75 

Ningpo,  “ 

Aug. 

1 

2 

Aug. 

3 

1 

60 

Tinghai,  “ 

cc 

3 

m 

CC 

15 

14 

40 

Pootoo,  “ 

ic 

15 

6 

cc 

21 

14 

40 

Shanghai,  “ 

cc 

22 

4 

1C 

26 

1 

150 

Hong  Kong,  “ 

Sept. 

2 

17 

Sept. 

19 

7 

870 

Summary  Continued,  in  the  U.  S. 

Flag  Ship  Hartford. 

Hong  Kong,  China, 
Nagasaki,  Japan, 
Simonosaki,  “ 

Aug. 

29 

41 

Oct. 

10 

6 ! 

984 

Oct. 

19 

58 

Dec. 

17 

9 

1,120 

Dec. 

18 

1 

CC 

19 

1 

150 

Hiogo,  “ 

t( 

21 

18 

1868. 

Jan. 

8 

2 

160 

Osaca,  “ 

1868. 

Jan. 

8 

4 

« 

12 

13 

Hiogo,  “ 

“ 

12 

9 

“ 

21 

13 

Simonosaki,  “ 

25 

1 

CC 

26 

4 

160 

Nagasaki, 

CC 

27 

5 

Feb. 

1 

1 

130 

Hong  Kong,  China, 

Feb. 

8 1 

27 

March 

5 

7 

1,160 

Whampoa,  “ 

March 

5 

7 

CC 

12 

1-2 

70 

Hong  Kong,  “ 

“ 

13 

9 

“ 

21 

1 

70 

Singapore,  Malaysia, 

31 

22 

April 

23 

10 

1,550 

Anjer  Point,  Java, 

April 

27  , 

1 

1C 

28  1 

4 

520 

Simon’s  Town,  S.  Africa, 

June 

8 ' 

6 1-2 

June 

15 

41 

5,622 

Cape  Town,  “ 

“ 

15 

5 

“ 

20 

1-2  1 

60 

St.  Helena  Island, 

July 

4 

3 

July 

7 

14 

1,896 

New  York,  U.  S., 

Aug. 

6 

8 

Aug. 

14  | 

30 

5,260 

TOTAL,  81  PORTS  VISITED. 

887 

1 

383 

Knots, 
5-3,888,  or 
62,196 
Miles. 

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